# one bathroom group



## mssp (Dec 15, 2009)

Ok boys rip it apart. This is one bathroom group of a Lexus dealership we are doing. Will get more pics Monday.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

I noticed the letters wernt turned up below the 4" double wye.

Wyed you knock it down to 2" on the top


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

My nitpicking is that I like to leave my closet stubouts about 1/4" under the slab grade. The finishers can finish it flat and the toilets don't need to be shimmed or grouted in.


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## ditchdigger (Aug 12, 2012)

Good looking rough in I like the Fernco caps good for reuse.


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## Plumbersteve (Jan 25, 2011)

422 plumber said:


> The finishers can finish it flat and the toilets don't need to be shimmed or grouted in.


:blink: can you 'splain this a little more lucy?


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## MarkToo (Dec 17, 2011)

We'd get infracted for a double wye on the horizontal.


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## mssp (Dec 15, 2009)

GREENPLUM said:


> I noticed the letters wernt turned up below the 4" double wye.
> 
> Wyed you knock it down to 2" on the top


must of got in a hurry. I usually try to put my stiches up. 2" is a vent and out combo runs to a lav


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

mssp said:


> must of got in a hurry. I usually try to put my stiches up. 2" is a vent and out combo runs to a lav


 
I would have kept the vent 3 or 4" and installed a c/o above floor.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

GREENPLUM said:


> I would have kept the vent 3 or 4" and installed a c/o above floor.


That's what I would have done -- A 4" C/O Tee just above the floor and then a 4x2 bushing in the top of the C/O tee.


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

mssp said:


> Ok boys rip it apart. This is one bathroom group of a Lexus dealership we are doing. Will get more pics Monday.


Looks good from here. Must be rain season in your area or are the tomahawks always used? 
Lexus must be in a growing frenzy I have 2 new projects to bid in the same county here.


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## LEAD INGOT (Jul 15, 2009)

Plumbersteve said:


> :blink: can you 'splain this a little more lucy?


 I can on Jeffs behalf. Concrete guys are getting lazy, and don't do a lot of hand tooling around toilet risers. If they can powertrowel over the top, and you keep a ledgend of where they are, you just have to tap out the 1/4" of concrete, and glue your collar on the inside of the 4". No more swirls aroung the riser or eneven surface that will throw off the level of the WC.


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

We couldn't flat vent like that around here :no:. Where is this rough?


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

LEAD INGOT said:


> I can on Jeffs behalf. Concrete guys are getting lazy, and don't do a lot of hand tooling around toilet risers. If they can powertrowel over the top, and you keep a ledgend of where they are, you just have to tap out the 1/4" of concrete, and glue your collar on the inside of the 4". No more swirls aroung the riser or eneven surface that will throw off the level of the WC.


 






How do you seal the top of the 4" closet riser? A test cap? Have the concrete guys ever broken the cap and then you have wet cement pouring down the drain line? 

You'd better be there at 6 A.M. when they pour babysitting those guys.


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## mssp (Dec 15, 2009)

Tommy plumber said:


> How do you seal the top of the 4" closet riser? A test cap? Have the concrete guys ever broken the cap and then you have wet cement pouring down the drain line?
> 
> You'd better be there at 6 A.M. when they pour babysitting those guys.


Fernco caps for air test. Glue cap after inspection


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## mssp (Dec 15, 2009)

johnlewismcleod said:


> We couldn't flat vent like that around here :no:. Where is this rough?


Kansas its a wet vent so we can run horizontal


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

Tommy plumber said:


> How do you seal the top of the 4" closet riser? A test cap? Have the concrete guys ever broken the cap and then you have wet cement pouring down the drain line?
> 
> You'd better be there at 6 A.M. when they pour babysitting those guys.


That_ is_ a nightmare scenario. 

Around here concrete guys are famous for standing on plumbing while they pour and being completely oblivious of f-ing up other trades hard work. 

I've put gravel and four stakes on floor drains and C.O.'s and still they manage to pull them off plumb with their rakes or mash them below grade by stomping and standing on them :furious:

I think I'll stick with my diamond cup grinder to dress up my closet stubs after the pour and trim :thumbsup:


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

johnlewismcleod said:


> That_ is_ a nightmare scenario. Around here concrete guys are famous for standing on plumbing while they pour and being completely oblivious of f-ing up other trades hard work. <snip>
> 
> 
> A long time ago, maybe on here, there was a post about pouring a slab and the house was built with stand-up-walls the floor slab was used as a work area to pour the walls. Nothing could be above the finished slab -- nothing yet the plumbing had to be in. As I remember this post all risers were cut off square. A glue in test plug was installed, a coupling was installed and glued on the bottom over the glue in cap. Now a stub was brought up to 1/4" below finished floor and that was filled with sand. When it was time to use the riser it only had 1/4" of concrete on it and you had to find it by tapping with a hammer. Now you could wiggle the stub, pull it from the coupling, break out the test plug and glue in the riser as necessary. I THINK, somebody that does it that way elaborate ...


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

PLUMBER_BILL said:


> johnlewismcleod said:
> 
> 
> > That_ is_ a nightmare scenario. Around here concrete guys are famous for standing on plumbing while they pour and being completely oblivious of f-ing up other trades hard work. <snip>
> ...


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## LEAD INGOT (Jul 15, 2009)

Tommy plumber said:


> How do you seal the top of the 4" closet riser? A test cap? Have the concrete guys ever broken the cap and then you have wet cement pouring down the drain line?
> 
> You'd better be there at 6 A.M. when they pour babysitting those guys.


 I wad the inside tight with shop towels, and glue a thin wafer cap on top of the 1/4" recessed stub. Even if you lose location, you have a good idea where it is at. Little tap here and there, and you're on. I wad with shop towels because the wafer caps are thin. Never had an issue that way.


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

PLUMBER_BILL said:


> johnlewismcleod said:
> 
> 
> > That_ is_ a nightmare scenario. Around here concrete guys are famous for standing on plumbing while they pour and being completely oblivious of f-ing up other trades hard work. <snip>
> ...


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

LEAD INGOT said:


> I wad the inside tight with shop towels, and glue a thin wafer cap on top of the 1/4" recessed stub. Even if you lose location, you have a good idea where it is at. Little tap here and there, and you're on. I wad with shop towels because the wafer caps are thin. Never had an issue that way.


That technique would make it workable...thanks for the explanation :thumbsup:


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

LEAD INGOT said:


> I wad the inside tight with shop towels, and glue a thin wafer cap on top of the 1/4" recessed stub. Even if you lose location, you have a good idea where it is at. Little tap here and there, and you're on. I wad with shop towels because the wafer caps are thin. Never had an issue that way.


I am glad that my brother in bibs does this. This one gc we work for, has a power screed that is as wide as the slab. The more times they have to lift it over risers, the more they get p.o.'ed and the plumbing starts getting abused.


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## ditchdigger (Aug 12, 2012)

LEAD INGOT said:


> I can on Jeffs behalf. Concrete guys are getting lazy, and don't do a lot of hand tooling around toilet risers. If they can powertrowel over the top, and you keep a ledgend of where they are, you just have to tap out the 1/4" of concrete, and glue your collar on the inside of the 4". No more swirls aroung the riser or eneven surface that will throw off the level of the WC.


And if you are roughing in off batter boards and string without knowing the exact finish grade then what ?


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

ditchdigger said:


> And if you are roughing in off batter boards and string without knowing the exact finish grade then what ?


That's what a gc or super is for.


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

LEAD INGOT said:


> I can on Jeffs behalf. Concrete guys are getting lazy, and don't do a lot of hand tooling around toilet risers. If they can powertrowel over the top, and you keep a ledgend of where they are, you just have to tap out the 1/4" of concrete, and glue your collar on the inside of the 4". No more swirls aroung the riser or eneven surface that will throw off the level of the WC.


A good tile guy will never leave you disappointed.


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

MSSP- what are those green pipe holders called and who make them? I assuming it's a piece of rebar with an ell shaped pad to protect the pipe. I'd like to start buying this if the cost is right. Which I'm sure it's not


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

Michaelcookplum said:


> MSSP- what are those green pipe holders called and who make them? I assuming it's a piece of rebar with an ell shaped pad to protect the pipe. I'd like to start buying this if the cost is right. Which I'm sure it's not



SiouxChief makes something like that.

http://www.siouxchief.com/Support/DWV-Hangers/Tomahawk.L199U


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

Michaelcookplum said:


> A good tile guy will never leave you disappointed.


Yeah, but what about when it's a just the slab, or if it's VCT's and the tile guys bid doesn't have enough money in it to fix the floor? You are much better off leaving your risers under the slab.


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## mssp (Dec 15, 2009)

Michaelcookplum said:


> MSSP- what are those green pipe holders called and who make them? I assuming it's a piece of rebar with an ell shaped pad to protect the pipe. I'd like to start buying this if the cost is right. Which I'm sure it's not


 They are made by siouxchief. they are called tomohawks. rebar with a plastic clip on top. We painted them green while we were steaking out walls so no one would run them over.


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## No-hub (Sep 1, 2012)

ditchdigger said:


> And if you are roughing in off batter boards and string without knowing the exact finish grade then what ?


Never not known, you have to set floor drains and floor sinks on groundwork, lots of polished and stained concrete jobs around here so block outs arent an option. I set flanges too.


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## ditchdigger (Aug 12, 2012)

No-hub said:


> Never not known, you have to set floor drains and floor sinks on groundwork, lots of polished and stained concrete jobs around here so block outs arent an option. I set flanges too.


This is true maybe 3 days after I'm through roughing in I have to come back and set floor sink and floor drains but I'm not about to spend all the time to dig around every wc pipe cut it perfectly below grade (and there may be 25 wc to do this on )i see talks point about the concrete being level and all but around pipes is not the only unlevel spot on the alb whose to say you take all that time and still have to shim the toilet IMO its a waste of time but hey it's just an opinion


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