# Mistake tools.



## LEAD INGOT (Jul 15, 2009)

starting a thread for tools bought in the heat of the moment. Things that seemed to be the answer. Not cheap ones either. But ended up sucking wind. Here are two of mine. Around $350.00 bucks combined and never worked. First is a uponor auto rotate head for the hand tool. Sucked. Second was a DeWalt spsmax x sps plus adaptor. Never locked into the drill. I never took the time to send them back. Post your mistakes. If you have any.


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## newyorkcity (Nov 25, 2010)

Great idea for a thread!
With great shame I admit, many years ago, that I bought an 18 volt drill from a QVC type tv channel with different attachments. The drill head attachment separates, and you can attach a sander, or a recip saw. 
I used it as a drill for awhile before tossing it.


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## Unclog1776 (Feb 5, 2013)

A gas powered sewer auger.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

An extra pump for my jetter to use as a spare....my current pump just won't break. A duct rodder cause of the price. Oh yeah, my jackhammer. Needed one 4 times in a month, bought one put it on the van, haven't needed it since. I got a curse every time I buy a tool I don't need it for awhile.


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## Pacificpipes (Oct 1, 2013)

Anything I ever thought was a good deal from harbor freight.


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## Plumb26 (May 18, 2013)

My $25.00 pipe threader kit from harbor frieght.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

I bought a bench grinder from Harbor Freight.....I returned it a day later......:laughing:


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## Hoosier Plumber (Nov 28, 2013)

Toilet siphon tool from Wolverine Brass. 

Any off brand of hand tool, they always let me down.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

I don't keep them around..

I gift them to others... :laughing:


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## wyplumber (Feb 14, 2013)

Redwood said:


> I don't keep them around..
> 
> I gift them to others... :laughing:


^^^ is how my apprentice gets most of his tools lol


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## love2surf927 (Dec 22, 2011)

gear junkie said:


> An extra pump for my jetter to use as a spare....my current pump just won't break. A duct rodder cause of the price. Oh yeah, my jackhammer. Needed one 4 times in a month, bought one put it on the van, haven't needed it since. I got a curse every time I buy a tool I don't need it for awhile.


I've got the curse too, I got an M12 pex tool because I was doing all kinds of pex jobs. As soon as I got it I did one job with it and it has sat in the tool shed for well over a year now. Same with my large roto hammer.


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## dannyoung85 (Oct 8, 2013)

love2surf927 said:


> I've got the curse too, I got an M12 pex tool because I was doing all kinds of pex jobs. As soon as I got it I did one job with it and it has sat in the tool shed for well over a year now. Same with my large roto hammer.


 What is wrong with the M12 pex tool? I am just wondering because my company is getting ready to do our first pex job and I am on the fence about getting a couple of 18 volt expanders and a couple of M12 expanders for my guys to do the job. Should I just go with the 18 volt ones only?


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

dannyoung85 said:


> What is wrong with the M12 pex tool? I am just wondering because my company is getting ready to do our first pex job and I am on the fence about getting a couple of 18 volt expanders and a couple of M12 expanders for my guys to do the job. Should I just go with the 18 volt ones only?


Now u know where to buy one from...


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## Unclog1776 (Feb 5, 2013)

wyplumber said:


> ^^^ is how my apprentice gets most of his tools lol


This made me lmao. My new guy will get excited when he shows me some new tool of the internet he ordered. His last was a manhole hook for 16.99 that snapped the first time her pulled a lid with it and the chunk was stuck so good it took me about an hour to get it out and the lid pulled.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

wyplumber said:


> ^^^ is how my apprentice gets most of his tools lol


They are excellent candidates for the gifting...

A while back my Seekonk Torque Wrench was visiting Seekonk Manufacturing, and I picked up a Ridgid Torque Wrench for temporary use....

When my Seekonk came back I gifted the Ridgid to the apprentice I had at the time...:laughing:

About a month later he tells me the socket is all stripped out and slips on the no-hub bands before reaching torque...:laughing:

I told him now you know why I use a Seekonk Torque Wrench...:laughing:


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## Shoot'N'Plumber (Apr 27, 2013)

Hold on! I'm still thinking!!!


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## Cal (Jun 17, 2008)

Shoot'N'Plumber said:


> Hold on! I'm still thinking!!!


Me too ! I think my list is reaching triple digits !! LOL !


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## Bayside500 (May 16, 2009)

Tommy plumber said:


> I bought a bench grinder from Harbor Freight.....I returned it a day later......:laughing:


i bought a heat gun from HF, first time i used it, about 3 minutes into a job it started revving really high and literally started shooting sparks out of it, i threw it across the garage and unplugged it.

:furious:


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Redwood said:


> They are excellent candidates for the gifting...
> 
> A while back my Seekonk Torque Wrench was visiting Seekonk Manufacturing, and I picked up a Ridgid Torque Wrench for temporary use....
> 
> ...


I had the same experience with the 
Ridgid torque wrench. I thought it was good quality because, you know, it was Ridgid. Nope. It worked for a couple years before it started slipping and being very difficult to use. I don't use it daily. I bought a Raptor brand and it is so smooth and works much better. I know Seekonk is a good one too but you don't see them here in Houston. At least I don't.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

For the most part I have had good luck with my purchases. I have only bought from Harbor Freight once and it was an impact wrench that worked well for its purpose. 

I've had helpers show up to work after Xmas with new tools from family members that were a joke. You could always tell when it was a family member who bought a tool for the helper because it would be the most ridiculous, unnecessary, and impractical thing that usually came from Brookstone. The digital measuring tape comes to mind or the hammer/pliers/screwdriver combo tool monstrosity.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

I am very uneasy about posting pics of tools I bought but haven't used.

My fear is MizBiz will see it and cut me off. :laughing:


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## PLUMB TIME (Feb 2, 2009)

A laser that you fit inside the first hole you drill and then it "automatically" lines up the next hole with 1/4" pitch.:whistling2:


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

EasyCAM sewer camera. 5,000 bucks down the drain. Last one month, owner refused any warranty, terrible camera, worst owner and company.

M12 Hackzall, hate that thing. Died about 6 months after I bought it, hasn't worked since. Only thing it would cut was sheetrock.


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## Shoot'N'Plumber (Apr 27, 2013)

Yea, the m12 hackzall, definitely a wasted purchase, I remember buying one with the last company maybe 4 years ago and that thing rocked. The new ones just struggle even with 2"abs


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

http://www.steeldragontools.com/item-detail.php?pid=1174



Has anyone purchased this Chinese pipe threading machine?......curious if anyone has a review on it that they'd like to post.


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## Pacificpipes (Oct 1, 2013)

Every compression sleeve puller I've bought. Not one has lasted more than a month.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Pacificpipes said:


> Every compression sleeve puller I've bought. Not one has lasted more than a month.

















I have the Pasco ferrule puller. Everytime I use it, the ferrule gets stuck on the end piece, or the end piece comes off the threaded shaft because the 'c' clip keeps coming off. So I just today ordered the duck-puller.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Tommy plumber said:


> I have the Pasco ferrule puller. Everytime I use it, the ferrule gets stuck on the end piece, or the end piece comes off the threaded shaft because the 'c' clip keeps coming off. So I just today ordered the duck-puller.


I have often thought about buying a ferrule puller over the years but in that time I have yet to be in a situation where pulling the old ferrule was absolutely necessary or would even be very helpful. I could always cut the pipe or reuse the ferrule with a new angle stop or compression fitting. When is it that you find it necessary to use the remover?


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## ken53 (Mar 1, 2011)

Tommy plumber said:


> http://www.steeldragontools.com/item-detail.php?pid=1174
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone purchased this Chinese pipe threading machine?......curious if anyone has a review on it that they'd like to post.


A friend had one but I can't use the same words to describe it on this sight so I won't.:yes:


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> I have often thought about buying a ferrule puller over the years but in that time I have yet to be in a situation where pulling the old ferrule was absolutely necessary or would even be very helpful. I could always cut the pipe or reuse the ferrule with a new angle stop or compression fitting. When is it that you find it necessary to use the remover?


Policy is we pull every last one! After removing existing cut off the first inch of pipe then new nut and ferrule.
Policy enforced after apprentice flooded house because existing nut was cracked when tightening new stop.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Perfect example....ferrule puller. been using the handle puller with adapter for the longest. Finally bit and bought a real ferrule puller about 2 months ago. Haven't needed one since.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> I have often thought about buying a ferrule puller over the years but in that time I have yet to be in a situation where pulling the old ferrule was absolutely necessary or would even be very helpful. I could always cut the pipe or reuse the ferrule with a new angle stop or compression fitting. When is it that you find it necessary to use the remover?











I get alot of jobs where the customer wants me to replace angle stops in the whole house. I remove the old stop along with the nut and ferrule and sweat on new stops with new escutcheons. 

I know a property manager who manages alot of high-end properties and he is absolutely thrilled with the fact that I use sweat stops for his clients. So he keeps referring me.


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Tommy plumber said:


> I get alot of jobs where the customer wants me to replace angle stops in the whole house. I remove the old stop along with the nut and ferrule and sweat on new stops with new escutcheons. I know a property manager who manages alot of high-end properties and he is absolutely thrilled with the fact that I use sweat stops for his clients. So he keeps referring me.


You are the one who turned me on to them a couple years ago after a photo you posted. I asked my supply house about them and they have them in stock. Every time I install compression stops I get bad feelings of any minute they could just blow off.
Question I do have is sometimes I'm able to pull old nuts and ferrules right off with my hand with no effort at all! How do they hold under water pressure?!


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Qball415 said:


> You are the one who turned me on to them a couple years ago after a photo you posted. I asked my supply house about them and they have them in stock. Every time I install compression stops I get bad feelings of any minute they could just blow off.
> Question I do have is sometimes I'm able to pull old nuts and ferrules right off with my hand with no effort at all! How do they hold under water pressure?!










I have experienced that too. Where a nut and ferrule slide right off the copper pipe. I guess it compresses just enough to bite the copper; but when the stop is removed , the nut and more importantly the brass ferrule de-compresses. This is just an unproven theory though. 

Whenever I do install a compression stop, I dope the threads and crank the nut down with a large crescent wrench.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

I have cut the pipe a few times if the ferrule was crooked or damaged but I have never had any issues with reusing the ferrules for stops. I prefer it in fact because it is so easy and works well if done right. I also dope up the bevelled edge and threads but have neverhad an issue.

Some guys here put them on CPVC which is just plain stupid, in my opinion. They're not designed for it. For copper, though, the compression style is very common here and works quite well.

I never understood sweat on stops other than for looks. When you have to replace them you are cutting the pipe being you would spend two hours trying to un-sweat it. Our pipes are typically in the attic so stops are usually below the trunk line and coming off a 90° at the bottom so un-sweating one can be a real biotch. Also, most tract house plumbers don't bother to remove the washer and stem before soldering so the washer and stem are ruined before its ever in use. 

For me, compression style on copper is the best for easy replacement, speed, and issue free stops. Were I to have issues with the ferrules I would probably switch to threaded before sweat-on but to each his or her own. Different regions have different methods that suit them best.

What about the crimped part of the copper left from the ferrule? Its already warped. Why not just cut the pipe and sweat on a MIP and make it easier to replace later?


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> I have cut the pipe a few times if the ferrule was crooked or damaged but I have never had any issues with reusing the ferrules for stops. I prefer it in fact because it is so easy and works well if done right. I also dope up the bevelled edge and threads but have neverhad an issue.
> 
> Some guys here put them on CPVC which is just plain stupid, in my opinion. They're not designed for it. For copper, though, the compression style is very common here and works quite well.
> 
> ...












I hear you. 
1) I like the way a sweat stop looks.
2)An average handyman cannot install it.
3)Sweat stops will NEVER blow off.
4)Since it takes a little time with my torch, I can charge a little more...
5)Hopefully when customer sees his sweat stop and rigid chrome supply, he'll call a licensed plumber to repair or replace. And that keeps us plumbers working.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Tommy plumber said:


> I hear you.
> 1) I like the way a sweat stop looks.
> 2)An average handyman cannot install it.
> 3)Sweat stops will NEVER blow off.
> ...


I can respect that. Differing philosophies, I suppose.


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

I have only ever used compression stops as well. I just don't use same nut anymore. I am always willing to try something new.


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## PlumberJoeOk (Nov 18, 2013)

I had a freaky dewalt grinder accident with a new one .. Cutting cast iron under house and it blew up and caught on fire catching some insulation on fire ... Luckily no serious damage... Got a new dewalt grinder and it's lasted 6 years


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Tommy plumber said:


> I hear you.
> 1) I like the way a sweat stop looks.
> 2)An average handyman cannot install it.
> 3)Sweat stops will NEVER blow off.
> ...


I agree 100%...

I can count the number of compression stops I've seen around here in the last 10 years on my fingers...:yes:

And I can count the number of homes I've seen plumbed with CPVC on one hand...


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Tommy plumber said:


> I hear you.
> 1) I like the way a sweat stop looks.
> 2)An average handyman cannot install it.
> 3)Sweat stops will NEVER blow off.
> ...


I may have a different overall philosophy regarding how I decide what parts to use but I cannot dispute the quality look of a properly done sweat-on stop valve like in your photo. The rigid chrome supply looks nice, too and it will also never split like a flex line. 

I haven't done enough rigid supply lines to get good at bending them like you. Flex lines are the norm here though I am fully aware of their inferior quality compared to rigid lines.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Tommy plumber said:


> I hear you.
> 1) I like the way a sweat stop looks.
> 2)An average handyman cannot install it.
> 3)Sweat stops will NEVER blow off.
> ...


 That's how I bend...


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## redbeardplumber (Dec 4, 2012)

How??? Rj? How


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

The M12 copper tubing cutter. I'll take a hand cutter any day. My jackhammer was worth it, along with must of my other tools. The only time I usually regret buying tools is when I go cheap. I don't do that anymore.


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## newyorkcity (Nov 25, 2010)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> I may have a different overall philosophy regarding how I decide what parts to use but I cannot dispute the quality look of a properly done sweat-on stop valve like in your photo. The rigid chrome supply looks nice, too and it will also never split like a flex line.
> 
> I haven't done enough rigid supply lines to get good at bending them like you. Flex lines are the norm here though I am fully aware of their inferior quality compared to rigid lines.


 On pedestal sinks, in expensive bathrooms, we will rough a 1/2" c x f adapter at the stud line, then cap it with old brass nipples and caps. Finish is rough brass nipples and a FIP angle stop close to the eschutcheon.
Very expensive jobs get chrome nipples.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

newyorkcity said:


> On pedestal sinks, in expensive bathrooms, we will rough a 1/2" c x f adapter at the stud line, then cap it with old brass nipples and caps. Finish is rough brass nipples and a FIP angle stop close to the eschutcheon.
> Very expensive jobs get chrome nipples.


I can totally understand doing that for high end work and I forgot about pedestal sinks where rigid lines look best. I would enjoy being able to do the plumbing once on a high end remodel but only once. Just not my thing. I am big on great customer service but I prefer the masses.


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## Turd Chaser (Dec 1, 2011)

Tommy plumber said:


> I hear you. 1) I like the way a sweat stop looks. 2)An average handyman cannot install it. 3)Sweat stops will NEVER blow off. 4)Since it takes a little time with my torch, I can charge a little more... 5)Hopefully when customer sees his sweat stop and rigid chrome supply, he'll call a licensed plumber to repair or replace. And that keeps us plumbers working.


Keeping the "SKILL" in the skilled trades

I like the way that you think


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## jmc12185 (Aug 27, 2013)

I don't even carry compression stops on my truck. Everything gets soldered on. And I definitely don't carry flex supplies. Under a cabinet gets rough brass angle stops and supplies. Toilets, pedestals and anything exposed gets chrome stops and supplies. Braided supplies look like garbage and they are for homeowners. They aren't even legal here.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


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## newyorkcity (Nov 25, 2010)

*I hear ya!*



Best Darn Sewer said:


> I can totally understand doing that for high end work and I forgot about pedestal sinks where rigid lines look best. I would enjoy being able to do the plumbing once on a high end remodel but only once. Just not my thing. I am big on great customer service but I prefer the masses.


 I agree, you can make or lose money on either one.
For budget installs, I do exactly like Tommy Plumber did, but I "chrome plate" the exposed 3/8" of copper with some solder and schmear it with an old can of flux & brush. I hate when plumbers clean up a joint with the same flux brush and can they use for new work!


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

newyorkcity said:


> I agree, you can make or lose money on either one.
> For budget installs, I do exactly like Tommy Plumber did, but I "chrome plate" the exposed 3/8" of copper with some solder and schmear it with an old can of flux & brush. I hate when plumbers clean up a joint with the same flux brush and can they use for new work!


Wow, that is particular to "chrome" the bottom of the copper supply. Its good to know there are guys like you who still take their time and do whats best and not just what works. So do you only use rigid supply lines?


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## newyorkcity (Nov 25, 2010)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> Wow, that is particular to "chrome" the bottom of the copper supply. Its good to know there are guys like you who still take their time and do whats best and not just what works. So do you only use rigid supply lines?


 No, I have plenty to atone for, plumbing wise.
I buy flexibles by the box from Wolverine Brass. Never had a blowout or leak from one.
The rule in public schools is that you can use rigid supplies up to 20". Their in house inspectors will take a ruler to it when doing say, a science lab where you run 3/8" soft copper in the cabinet.
However, I have never installed a compression inlet stop in my life.
Now I am worried about no lead brass brittle ferrules...


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

newyorkcity said:


> I agree, you can make or lose money on either one.
> For budget installs, I do exactly like Tommy Plumber did, but I "chrome plate" the exposed 3/8" of copper with some solder and schmear it with an old can of flux & brush. I hate when plumbers clean up a joint with the same flux brush and can they use for new work!










So if I am understanding your post, you 'tin' the pipe, right? I was taught that by an older journeyman when I was an apprentice. Too bad it's a dying art...

Alot of the guys coming up in the trade are not being taught how to even bend a ridgid supply line with a tubing benders.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

I thought that was called tinning. I was taught what it was and told I would probably never need to know how to do it and I never have. That is true craftsmanship when its done right. I am but a mere novice amongst masters...


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## newyorkcity (Nov 25, 2010)

Tommy plumber said:


> So if I am understanding your post, you 'tin' the pipe, right? I was taught that by an older journeyman when I was an apprentice. Too bad it's a dying art...
> 
> Alot of the guys coming up in the trade are not being taught how to even bend a ridgid supply line with a tubing benders.


 Nothing special. Just sand the pipe stub, flux up to the coupling, and schmear a little extra solder on and wipe it off with an OLD flux brush.
Not like pre-tinning a deep brass toilet floor flange.
Or tinning a brass wiping ferrule to wipe a lead joint.
The weights of solder ferrules and brass flanges were test questions...
One thing that I remember is that the lead or threaded brass gooseneck expansion joint on a water service after the tap in the street must lay to the right facing the tap. That way if the ground settles, the connection till tighten.
Plumber Bill would smoke me with that knowledge.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

newyorkcity said:


> I agree, you can make or lose money on either one.
> For budget installs, I do exactly like Tommy Plumber did, but I "chrome plate" the exposed 3/8" of copper with some solder and schmear it with an old can of flux & brush. I hate when plumbers clean up a joint with the *same flux brush *and can they use for new work!


You'd hate me. I'm using the same flux brush since 2008. However I never wipe a hot joint with the brush which seems asinine to me. I wipe hot joints with a dry cotton towel.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

gear junkie said:


> You'd hate me. I'm using the same flux brush since 2008. However I never wipe a hot joint with the brush which seems asinine to me. I wipe hot joints with a dry cotton towel.


Shoot...wuss. I use my bare index finger to wipe any excess solder. Haha. Though I do use a towel to finish polishing it after it hardens but before it cools completely. I am real particular about my solder joints. Soldering vertically is fun. I enjoy the challenge of not allowing any drips. Originally I was taught to use the flux brush to clean my joint but had to unlearn later on when I worked on my own and started learning better and cleaner methods. 

I have never and will probably never do a lead wipe. I love soldering brass flanges, though.


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> Shoot...wuss. I use my bare index finger to wipe any excess solder. Haha. Though I do use a towel to finish polishing it after it hardens but before it cools completely. I am real particular about my solder joints. Soldering vertically is fun. I enjoy the challenge of not allowing any drips. Originally I was taught to use the flux brush to clean my joint but had to unlearn later on when I worked on my own and started learning better and cleaner methods. I have never and will probably never do a lead wipe. I love soldering brass flanges, though.


I'm particular to about my joints, especially on a water heater. Best way to solder vertical joints is heat the fitting until it's just about ready to take, pull torch away and wipe all melted flux away and then heat and solder. Solder follows the flux, wipe off the flux and it won't run down the pipe.


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## red_devil (Mar 23, 2011)

For an awesome vertical joint scribe the fitting with a pencil. I made 10 bucks betting a plumber on that I could vertically "cap" a fitting. :thumbup:


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

Michaelcookplum said:


> I'm particular to about my joints, especially on a water heater. Best way to solder vertical joints is heat the fitting until it's just about ready to take, pull torch away and wipe all melted flux away and then heat and solder. Solder follows the flux, wipe off the flux and it won't run down the pipe.


This method works well with 95/5


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

red_devil said:


> For an awesome vertical joint scribe the fitting with a pencil. I made 10 bucks betting a plumber on that I could vertically "cap" a fitting. :thumbup:


Actually, Gear Junkie just told me the same thing. Why have I never heard of this until now??!! I just got really good at flame control and what I called finessing the solder with the heat.


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