# Better way to get the pipes down into the crawlspace?



## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

Running the washing machine drain to the crawlspace. 2x4 exterior wall over top of a 2x10 and the block foundation wall. The adjoining wall is dead over a joist. Apart from moving the wm box, what are your thoughts?


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## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

Inside


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## justin (May 14, 2010)

hroark2112 said:


> Running the washing machine drain to the crawlspace. 2x4 exterior wall over top of a 2x10 and the block foundation wall. The adjoining wall is dead over a joist. Apart from moving the wm box, what are your thoughts?


looks good to me. maybe some
more info?


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## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

I realize youdo not get as much cold as northern states,would it benefit the home owner to have the trap installed in the crawl space verse the wall that can freeze? I am allowed 24-48 inch riser. Outside wall not much else can be done.


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## beachplumber (Feb 7, 2010)

I usually 45 out of the wall a little. After drywall, trim, and the distance the washer sits of the wall it isn't an issue.


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

Good god, man.

Use a 3" hole saw, knocking out the core when it bottoms out.

Bore it close to the inside, let the sheetrockers skim over it 
with mud, and roll into the bay with a 45.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

What you've already done is pretty much how I've always done it.

Hog out the bottom plate and half of the rim joist with a 3" bit or hole saw and offset with a 45.


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## walker426 (Oct 17, 2011)

hroark2112 said:


> Running the washing machine drain to the crawlspace. 2x4 exterior wall over top of a 2x10 and the block foundation wall. The adjoining wall is dead over a joist. Apart from moving the wm box, what are your thoughts?


Standpipe looks short


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## Plumberass (Dec 8, 2011)

No cleanout?


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

Man you got that clear primer everywhere, where are your standards.:laughing:

JK the primer looks good.:thumbsup:


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

The trap in a 2 X 4 exterior wall wouldn't fly here... Call it a 3 season drain... :laughing:


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## drain surgeon (Jun 17, 2010)

Id have made the carpenter build that wall deeper(2x6or2x8)at least to a 4' height then you could insulate behind the plumbing and still be able to sheetrock Your only losing a few inches of space and would not have to hack out the rim joist


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## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

walker426 said:


> Standpipe looks short


21"


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## The real E.P. (Aug 9, 2011)

hroark2112 said:


> 21"


Here it has to be 600 mm or about 23 3/4"


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## seanny deep (Jan 28, 2012)

I refuse to run traps or waterlines in exterior walls , 2x4 exterior walls don't meet code here even with spray foam you can't get a r value that is up to par.. with bc building code I would have had a 2x4 pony wall framed on front so they could insulate and vapor barrier behind my plumbing.


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## plumblevel (Nov 12, 2010)

washing machine must turn 3" as soon as it comes through floor and 24" stand pipe


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## plumblevel (Nov 12, 2010)

also could have came in front of bottom plate and use 2 60s to get back in stud wall and keep it low to floor


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## J.J (Mar 24, 2010)

3'' ? 
here NPC wants a 2'' trap on washers now. yea a 2'' will fit in a 2x4 wall but it is tight and forget it if you got to run water on the front or back side. 

never would have put it in a out side wall here


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## Platinum824 (Jan 17, 2012)

*Over bore the hole.*

I think like most people suggested. You could overbore the hole. I used to drill it out 1 pipe size larger and bore into the joist as little as possible. I would drill through the front part of the bottom of the wall and use what we call an F.H.A plate with TEKO nails over pipe. The hole saw would work the best you want to avoid hitting nails with a wood bit. this way you can keep your waste pipe as high as possible ensuring you can get plenty of fall beneath. Bury the fitting into the bottom of the wall. I would measure up my piece between the tee and the floor and typically use a 90 degree fitting. then I would glue them together above the floor and let the unglued part of the 90 press against the floor while I pressed the tee against the top of the wall base. This would ensure that they are at at 90 degree angle. Just be careful not to do it backwards. 

Nowadays we use 2 x 6 exterior. When 2 x 4's were allowed we could not put a trap in it so we would have to fur it out with wall and make sure they used r-32 insulation behind it. 

Also I agree the standpipe looks too short. Here the code is 24"-36". I am not sure why this is but I believe it is to ensure suds don't come back up even thought it happens quite frequently. 

I believe when others were mentioning the 3" rule. It is the same rule here where your laundry waste can be 2" but must travel independently to a 3" line with no other fixture waste connecting to it.

Good luck and I hope this helps,

Brandon


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## Downthepipe (Feb 14, 2012)

seanny deep said:


> I refuse to run traps or waterlines in exterior walls , 2x4 exterior walls don't meet code here even with spray foam you can't get a r value that is up to par.. with bc building code I would have had a 2x4 pony wall framed on front so they could insulate and vapor barrier behind my plumbing.


I agree with seanny
Insulate plus drywall or thermal for draftstop then 2x4 framed wall for plumbing
I work in northern Illinois and I have used this practice for well over twenty years


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## damnplumber (Jan 22, 2012)

*I guess I've been in California too long*

That looks great! nice clean bond lines but where's the C/O? Where I live I have never seen a frozen drain so it is interesting to be reading about this. Good tips though


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## walker426 (Oct 17, 2011)

hroark2112 said:


> Running the washing machine drain to the crawlspace. 2x4 exterior wall over top of a 2x10 and the block foundation wall. The adjoining wall is dead over a joist. Apart from moving the wm box, what are your thoughts?


Why foamcore pipe


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## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

plumblevel said:


> washing machine must turn 3" as soon as it comes through floor and 24" stand pipe


Not here. Horizontal washing machine drain is 3", once I turn up I can go to 2". 18" standpipe is the code here.


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## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

walker426 said:


> Why foamcore pipe


When you've been beaten down on price, you use foamcore.


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## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

Redwood said:


> The trap in a 2 X 4 exterior wall wouldn't fly here... Call it a 3 season drain... :laughing:


The GC keeps fighting it, but the inspector has rejected the rough-in 3 times. He wants a 2X6 wall, and the GC doesn't want to do it.

This is the LAST job I do for this GC, let them piss & moan with the inspector. I don't care anymore!


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

hroark2112 said:


> When you've been beaten down on price, you use foamcore.


 
I got charged $19+ tax for a 10' section of 3"... it was light, probably foamcore.


Is that high or not..


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

Yeah that's high compared to what I pay. I'm not in front of a counter ticket atm but thinking little over a buck per ft. They hit you for double wherever you got that.


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