# Any suggestions?? In a bind big time, cables stuck



## Hillside

So my guy got one of our machines stuck appx 130' out on a residential line, man hole is 150' away, I think were under the street, wrapped up and snapped the 3/4 cable, spliced in a coupling to make it one piece again, it keeps wrapping in the drum forwards or backwards, reverse feed it for a few turns and spins back to the place it started when I let off the pedal, won't go forwards or backwards I've been running machines for almost 15 years and have never been this snagged, no check valve on the system and the 4" clean outs full of crap water, it's a gorlitz go68 hd, any suggestions? What a mess im in and have no time for this job right now, do I try and pull it out with a truck or winch? No sectional comments Plz lol


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## DesertOkie

If you can get to it(open cage) hook vise grips in the cage where the cable goes into the arm. This will keep it in the cage. We get two people to pull the whole machine while running it in forward. If the cable is stretching good let if fly forward some times this helps.

If you got one toss in a camera, if it's still holding run it it as far as you can, pull back a foot and run a blow bag till the water clears up. Then look and see what you got.


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## sjaquay

ive had that happen, which is why i no longer go over 100' with the sectional, over 100' and the cable end wont really spin, over that i sell a jet. looks like you may be doing a dig job. sometimes if you just keep working it back and forth it will eventually come loose. good luck. may be a broken pipe and the cable is now drilled into the ground, done that too....


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## ChrisConnor

Get a pair of vice grips

get an iron digging bar, about 6'.

Get the machine about 18" inches from the cleanout with the cable pushed into the reel.

Clamp the vice grips onto the cable inside the reel where it enters the distribution arm. Make sure they are tight. The vice grip is going to hold the cable in the reel while you pry is out of the line with the iron bar.

Put the iron bar under the "A" of the frame where the cable feeder sits. 
Have the cable feed loose.

Angle it in such a way that the iron bar won't be struck when the reel turns.

put your foot pedal in front of the machine.

Now you are going to lever the machine out while running the machine rotation in forward, then reverse, and so on. You're going to change the rotation of the cable each time it gets slack or too tight.


If the cable in the reel is too wavy, pull out about ten feet and cut it, then put an end on it and connect it to the back end cable on an empty reel and do as stated above. Have at least ten feet if you do this.

If you don't have an iron bar, long 2x4 will do in a pinch, but the bar is better.

Keep on your toes in case something breaks. Push with your arms at the top of the bar, try not to stand very close to the cable coming out of the cleanout. You're going to be close doing this,but don't be casual, be ready to spring if it breaks.

After it comes back a bit, see if you can pull it out by hand.

If it's still stuck, stop the machine, removed the vice grips and feed the cable back in to the reel as you move the machine back closer to the cleanout. Re clamp the vice grips and repeat again until you get your cable retrieved. 

You may have to do this dance several times to get the cable back. It's possible that your guy's cable has flipped a helix in the main. 

You may be able to break the cable on the flipped return by running back and forth repeatedly. That's a good thing.

Once it's free, go back down the line with a short bent whip to get drainage, then use a cable hook/retriever to snag the broken piece.


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## jerad

how far down would you have to dig? if you are in the street send a camera down the line if you can to the end, turn on 512k locate then dig. in calif. from what i understand you shouldn't be that deep. i've seen the offset next to or under the sidewalk if you have one, raise up or down. i had this happen to me with a general 91 a long long time ago. went to k60 openwind never been stuck.


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## Hillside

Thanks guys, I'll b on it 1st thing in the a.m!


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## Gettinit

I have heard people run a jetter if it were roots to free their cable. Some have even run another cable beside it to free it up. Patience and luck to you whatever you decide.


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## SewerRat

Chain yourself to the kitchen table until you convince them their sewer needs replaced, then dig it up. 

Haven't you read your manual lately?


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## TX MECH PLUMBER

He may not be 6'6" and scary like you


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## PCBplumber

Call the city? I'd say broken line and you are tangled up outside the pipe. I'd get the jetter with a 6-8" extension so it stay in the line, at least is you can drop the drain you can get a camera in there to see the problem. If it's a break, call the city and sit there with a guilty look on your face while they dig it up.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER

I'd hook it to the vice on the truck and ease it out a bit before I dig. You mite get lucky. What do you have to lose???


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## ChrisConnor

The company I worked for in 97 had a tech with stuck cable in a sewer. They hooked the cable to the bumper with a chain and gave it a snatch.

The cable came loose flying and hit the back of the van, breaking the window, denting the back door and denting the headache rack behind the seats.

You know those recognizable hash marks that look like dirty tracks you get if you touch a dirty cable, well, they were imprinted in the metal on the back door of the van.

No, it wasn't me, but I drove that van after it happened.


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## theplungerman

ChrisConnor said:


> The company I worked for in 97 had a tech with stuck cable in a sewer. They hooked the cable to the bumper with a chain and gave it a snatch.
> 
> The cable came loose flying and hit the back of the van, breaking the window, denting the back door and denting the headache rack behind the seats.
> 
> You know those recognizable hash marks that look like dirty tracks you get if you touch a dirty cable, well, they were imprinted in the metal on the back door of the van.
> 
> No, it wasn't me, but I drove that van after it happened.


I did the same thing in many a day gone by. 
My cable didn't come loose, it snapped, flew back and broke my front light. 

I'm in so ca. I'll pm you, call me. 
My jetter with a turbo nozzle taped to my push rod cable will get it out. I guarantee it. I did it just 2 weeks ago for another plumber. 
I like what Connors ideas were but sounds hazardous. 
Before my jetter I would put the cable through this dinasour of a pipe threader and turn it in reverse then forward while inching backwards. 
Robert


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## ChrisConnor

theplungerman said:


> I like what Connors ideas were but sounds hazardous.



Yeah, but I did tell him to be careful, so that makes it okay.:yes:

I don't know who invented that method. But I've used it a bunch and have been ever successful with it, without injury.

Oh, the reason for it to be an iron bar is so the machine can slide down it easily when the cable comes free. When you use lumber, the wood dents and the machine sticks to it a bit and if you push really hard you can knock the machine over.


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## ChrisConnor

Of course after sitting overnight, the cable may have magically freed itself by morning. I've been called to help unstick cables that were just not budging the day before and when I get there the cable just pulls right out. Jetter hose too.


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## AndersenPlumbing

What do you see on camera? Not tryin to sound like a jerk, but IMO stuffing a cable down a drain and not owning a camera is a good recipe for disaster. 

If you were local, I'd bring my jetter and camera and try to help ya out. Maybe someone here can do that for ya??


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## DesertOkie

If you think it's roots poor in some dawn or Bio rooter down the drain, any thing slippery.


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## AssTyme

RedRubicon2004 said:


> *What do you see on camera?* Not tryin to sound like a jerk, but IMO stuffing a cable down a drain and not owning a camera is a good recipe for disaster.
> 
> If you were local, I'd bring my jetter and camera and try to help ya out. Maybe someone here can do that for ya??





He says the line is "full of crap water".


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## AssTyme

First thing is I would try to get the line open (blow bag) to see what you're up against.

Which cutting bit was he using ?

Good luck !


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## theplungerman

RedRubicon2004 said:


> What do you see on camera? Not tryin to sound like a jerk, but IMO stuffing a cable down a drain and not owning a camera is a good recipe for disaster.
> 
> If you were local, I'd bring my jetter and camera and try to help ya out. Maybe someone here can do that for ya??





theplungerman said:


> I'm in so ca. I'll pm you, call me.
> My jetter with a turbo nozzle taped to my push rod cable will get it out. I guarantee it. I did it just 2 weeks ago for another plumber.


no camera? don't snake???. Little harsh? 
He's probably out there right now tugging away. 

Hillside, 
Check your pm box, let me be the hero. :laughing:


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## Hillside

Just got home, had a slab leak we re-routed earlier, went by there this afternoon....... still stuck, I did what u guys said and I could have strummed it like a guitar string, it was a 3" dual blade with cutting teeth, yanked the man hole cover in the street and I don't know how lucky I could be but there was the lateral right below it, no cable there though, from the man hole i fished the camera down and sent it upstream a bit and found a root mass that the cam wouldn't push through, we located it and luckily it's on their property, 5'9" deep with a 60' pine tree 15' away, calling the owner in a few min to give her a price and hopefully dig it tomorrow l, thanks everyone!! I'ma keep ur # on standby, really appreciate it everyone


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## Gettinit

Hillside said:


> Just got home, had a slab leak we re-routed earlier, went by there this afternoon....... still stuck, I did what u guys said and I could have strummed it like a guitar string, it was a 3" dual blade with cutting teeth, yanked the man hole cover in the street and I don't know how lucky I could be but there was the lateral right below it, no cable there though, from the man hole i fished the camera down and sent it upstream a bit and found a root mass that the cam wouldn't push through, we located it and luckily it's on their property, 5'9" deep with a 60' pine tree 15' away, calling the owner in a few min to give her a price and hopefully dig it tomorrow l, thanks everyone!! I'ma keep ur # on standby, really appreciate it everyone



Awesome news! :thumbup: You gonna try the jetter first even after getting the job to dig it up?


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## Hillside

Hopefully we won't have to, it drained down over night and was flowing semi decent when we had the cam in and could see it hitting the city main


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## AndersenPlumbing

theplungerman said:


> no camera? don't snake???. Little harsh?


So you dont think its a bad idea to rod sewers without a camera? 

I always use a spade to poke a hole and get the water out, then follow with a camera. Spades dont really get wrapped up in stuff so bad you cant pull them back. 

Oh, and I didnt see the part where he said the sewer was still full.


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## johnlewismcleod

RedRubicon2004 said:


> So you dont think its a bad idea to rod sewers without a camera?
> 
> I always use a spade to poke a hole and get the water out, then follow with a camera. Spades dont really get wrapped up in stuff so bad you cant pull them back.
> 
> Oh, and I didnt see the part where he said the sewer was still full.


Camera's are expensive and get broken. It's nice to get paid to use them is all. 

Routine, free camera work just seems wrong to many people...but maybe that's where we are going as they become more and more common on plumbing trucks.

I do get it that you can identify problems and sell repairs easier when you use the camera.


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## AndersenPlumbing

johnlewismcleod said:


> Camera's are expensive and get broken. It's nice to get paid to use them is all.
> 
> Routine, free camera work just seems wrong to many people...but maybe that's where we are going as they become more and more common on plumbing trucks.
> 
> I do get it that you can identify problems and sell repairs easier when you use the camera.


My first hour is double my normal rate, to cover the cost of using the camera and rodding machine. 

I mostly use my camera to cover my ass against call backs and to keep from getting into something I dont want to run a cutter into. 

It also sells the situation when the customer can see whats going on.


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## AssTyme

RedRubicon2004 said:


> *My first hour is double my normal rate, to cover the cost of using the camera and rodding machine.*
> 
> I mostly use my camera to cover my ass against call backs and to keep from getting into something I dont want to run a cutter into.
> 
> It also sells the situation when the customer can see whats going on.




Most people around here won't pay for any extra's unless it's a repeating problem.


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## AssTyme

johnlewismcleod said:


> *Camera's are expensive and get broken. It's nice to get paid to use them is all*.
> 
> Routine, free camera work just seems wrong to many people...but maybe that's where we are going as they become more and more common on plumbing trucks.
> 
> I do get it that you can identify problems and sell repairs easier when you use the camera.



Yes not free unless it's a situation where I just want to see WTH is going on just to satisfy my curiosity.


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## Epox

Root rippers are the worst for hanging up in roots. I stopped using mines. It locks in both direction. I only have the 3/4 cable and know some of you use a 1 1/4 which probably makes a lot of difference. But if you can't get it turn your screwed. I've even tried a High Lift Jack to no avail.


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## AssTyme

RedRubicon2004 said:


> So you dont think its a bad idea to rod sewers without a camera?
> *
> I always use a spade to poke a hole and get the water out,* then follow with a camera. Spades dont really get wrapped up in stuff so bad you cant pull them back.
> 
> Oh, and I didnt see the part where he said the sewer was still full.




Me too (I use a half blade on my drum machine) I find it greatly reduces the chance of getting hung up


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## AssTyme

Epox said:


> Root rippers are the worst for hanging up in roots. I stopped using mines. It locks in both direction. I only have the 3/4 cable and know some of you use a 1 1/4 which probably makes a lot of difference. But if you can't get it turn your screwed. I've even tried a High Lift Jack to no avail.



Yes the 1.25" does make a big difference but if I know it's heavy roots I'll run a spear head first to get the line flowing and remove some of the root mass making it easier for the root saw.


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## Epox

Hope this is still on thread but what is a good machine for 1 1/4 cable. 
I like the idea of drum machines better than having to assemble cables. But that's me.


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## AssTyme

Epox said:


> Hope this is still on thread but what is a good machine for 1 1/4 cable.
> I like the idea of drum machines better than having to assemble cables. But that's me.




Yeah I love/prefer drums too but a big powerful drum is too heavy for me as 95% of my main jobs are in basements. Even lifting it in my van would be a chore.

I like the Eel/General 1.25" cable because it self feeds in and out. I usually spin it with a drill haven't used my Model C in several months.

The K-1500 or Roth R750 are good machines but much more labor intense.


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## Gettinit

Epox said:


> Hope this is still on thread but what is a good machine for 1 1/4 cable.
> I like the idea of drum machines better than having to assemble cables. But that's me.


That's a good question. I bet Seweratz has one.


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## AssTyme

Epox said:


> *Hope this is still on thread* but what is a good machine for 1 1/4 cable.
> I like the idea of drum machines better than having to assemble cables. But that's me.




Just don't speak of certain machines or a certain plumber and all should be good :laughing:


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## Epox

Yeah I'll stay clear of that tangle,,,,:laughing:


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## theplungerman

[/QUOTE]=RedRubicon2004;380306]So you dont think its a bad idea to rod sewers without a camera? 

I always use a spade to poke a hole and get the water out, then follow with a camera. Spades dont really get wrapped up in stuff so bad you cant pull them back. 

Oh, and I didnt see the part where he said the sewer was still full.[/QUOTE]
Its a good idea to have one. But I read it like if you don't have a camera, you shouldn't be snaking. 
IMHO, That's a tall order, and if a guy doesn't have one he usually has a guy he can call if needed.


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## gear junkie

Epox said:


> *Hope this is still on thread but what is a good machine for 1 1/4 cable. *
> I like the idea of drum machines better than having to assemble cables. But that's me.


Dewalt 124


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## Epox

gear junkie said:


> Dewalt 124


You suggesting a drill on 1.25 cable?


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## Airgap

AssTyme said:


> Just don't speak of certain machines or a certain plumber and all should be good :laughing:


Feel free to speak of whatever machine or plumber you wish(respectfully of course). 

This is THE PlumbingZone, not some wanna be plumbing forum....

No offense Mark...

:thumbup:


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## gear junkie

Epox said:


> You suggesting a drill on 1.25 cable?


yup. Where have you been? Everyone's doing this now!


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## TX MECH PLUMBER

gear junkie said:


> yup. Where have you been? Everyone's doing this now!


Hu. Am I confused?? Can u explain


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## Epox

gear junkie said:


> yup. Where have you been? Everyone's doing this now!


I've seen guys mocked in here that used a drill soooo,,:blink:


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## 89plumbum

Dont know if it was mentioned already, but I will try to push it through in reverse before I pull it back out. Just did it friday.


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## gear junkie

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> Hu. Am I confused?? Can u explain


Use the electric eel sectional cable with a right angle drill. The cable actually self feeds because of the the wind....the ridgid cable is opposite so a k1500, 60 or 50 self feeds when run in reverse. Just pull back a little on the drill to keep the exposed cable tight....give it any slack and it can kink up. You'll know when you hit the stoppage. 

I prefer the electric eel over the general cable because the wind isn't as tight so it self feeds faster with the electric eel. This method does take a minute because you have to connect and disconnect every 8' but will blow any drain machine other then a 1500 out the water and take up less space and weight as well.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER

gear junkie said:


> Use the electric eel sectional cable with a right angle drill. The cable actually self feeds because of the the wind....the ridgid cable is opposite so a k1500, 60 or 50 self feeds when run in reverse. Just pull back a little on the drill to keep the exposed cable tight....give it any slack and it can kink up. You'll know when you hit the stoppage.
> 
> I prefer the electric eel over the general cable because the wind isn't as tight so it self feeds faster with the electric eel. This method does take a minute because you have to connect and disconnect every 8' but will blow any drain machine other then a 1500 out the water and take up less space and weight as well.


I never got why ridgid cables run that way I run them backward so the self feed but when using a retriever head u can't. Y are Ridgids like that


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## Epox

Bare in mind I've used nothing but drums. If you're using the method with the drill or even the 1500, once you're in the line and need to retreave do you have to break it down and reassemble? Assuming you're working outside of course.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER

When I run a 1500. I don't break down any cable till I get about three out maybe 4. Unless there's plants grass pool or a reason to break down. Same with running in ill take out whole spool of cable break it in half and kick ass


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## gear junkie

Epox said:


> Bare in mind I've used nothing but drums. If you're using the method with the drill or even the 1500, once you're in the line and need to retreave do you have to break it down and reassemble? Assuming you're working outside of course.


Just put the drill in reverse and it'll self feed out.


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## plbgbiz

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> I never got why ridgid cables run that way I run them backward so the self feed but when using a retriever head u can't. Y are Ridgids like that


To keep you from drilling into a root mass or through the wall of the the pipe to the point of no return.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER

Thanks !!!


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## AssTyme

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> *I never got why ridgid cables run that way* I run them backward so the self feed but when using a retriever head u can't. Y are Ridgids like that




So it doesn't corkscrew into the blockage and suck/pull the machine into the cleanout at 650+ rpm :laughing:


It would also be hard on the machine internals.


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## AssTyme

plbgbiz said:


> To keep you from drilling into a root mass or through the wall of the the pipe to the point of no return.



You just have to be careful and hold back when your right on a blockage. Let the cutter shred it up a bit before plowing through.


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## easttexasplumb

If you ever get a cable stuck. Use Dawn ultra dish soap, mix the entire bottle of soap with about a gallon of water and pour it down the line. Wait a couple of hours then see if the cable will free up. If that dont work its time to dig.


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## AssTyme

easttexasplumb said:


> If you ever get a cable stuck. Use Dawn ultra dish soap, mix the entire bottle of soap with about a gallon of water and pour it down the line. Wait a couple of hours then see if the cable will free up. If that dont work its time to dig.




The line has to be draining for this to work ?


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## Cuda

A bottle of dish soap has got me my snake or camera back a few times draining or not. It's cheap to try it.


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## RealLivePlumber

I tell them I'll be "diggin without permission" if my camera gets stuck. :laughing:

And they will be getting a bill.:yes:


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## DesertOkie

AssTyme said:


> The line has to be draining for this to work ?


No it's heavier than the water it will get there slowly. We used Bio rooter stuff for the same thing.


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## Epox

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> When I run a 1500. I don't break down any cable till I get about three out maybe 4. Unless there's plants grass pool or a reason to break down. Same with running in ill take out whole spool of cable break it in half and kick ass


How long are you keeping in the spool? And since working with so much cable loose and on the ground are you working solo or requires an assistant?


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## TX MECH PLUMBER

Epox said:


> How long are you keeping in the spool? And since working with so much cable loose and on the ground are you working solo or requires an assistant?


Solo but easier with a helper. I just hate stopping to add a section of cable. What do you mean keeping in the spool ??


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## Epox

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> Solo but easier with a helper. I just hate stopping to add a section of cable. What do you mean keeping in the spool ??


You have what,,100ft. in spool before pulling some out?


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## Tommy plumber

Hillside said:


> Hopefully we won't have to, it drained down over night and was flowing semi decent when we had the cam in and could see it hitting the city main


 






Keep us posted. I hope you get your cable back intact and in good shape. Try and get pictures if you can.


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## AssTyme

Hillside said:


> Hopefully we won't have to, it drained down over night and was flowing semi decent when we had the cam in and could see it hitting the city main




So what was it hung up on ?


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## Hillside

Wow what a mess, dug up where our camera stopped upstream from the city tye, cracked the 6" clay, pulled out 6' of solid roots....... No cable FML camera'd it again and found a $#it show 10' away, cable was wrapped up on itself amd flipped for 30' not a root on it, it Musta hit this root mass and got scared an flipped around, put my sparton 1065 in sith a retriever bit on with the cam to hook it, grabbed it and it wouldn't pull back for the life of me, decided to dig it up, finally got it dug,cracked and opened, had to end up grinding the cable in half to unwind it to pull it out. Put in a clean out, backfilled it and bailed, i asked my guy wtf? fidnt u feel something happening? he said it sailed smooth in with a small hang up once, them it was stuck, oh well $#it happens, thanks everyone for all the info and help,


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## dclarke

Anyone here ever flipped 1 1/4 cable ?


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## plumberpro

yes there was a 4" f co used a 4 shark tooth cutter it turned into 6" in yard cable was feeding easily no twisting or binding the cutter was coming back to co!!! UGH!? very hard to get it back out ran it backwards and it helped


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## theplungerman

Finally, did you get a check before you bailed? 
Reminds me of this true story. 25 years ago I got stuck in roots and right after I finally got it back,,,,on the very next job, a story came on the tv about a woman suing the plumbing contractor to dig up the sewer to get his stuck cable out of the sewer on his dime. She won.


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## AssTyme

Hillside said:


> Wow what a mess, dug up where our camera stopped upstream from the city tye, cracked the 6" clay, pulled out 6' of solid roots....... No cable FML camera'd it again and found a $#it show 10' away, cable was wrapped up on itself amd flipped for 30' not a root on it, it Musta hit this root mass and got scared an flipped around, put my sparton 1065 in sith a retriever bit on with the cam to hook it, grabbed it and it wouldn't pull back for the life of me, decided to dig it up, finally got it dug,cracked and opened, had to end up grinding the cable in half to unwind it to pull it out. Put in a clean out, backfilled it and bailed, i asked my guy wtf? fidnt u feel something happening? he said it sailed smooth in with a small hang up once, them it was stuck, oh well $#it happens, thanks everyone for all the info and help,



Holy root log Batman !!!


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## DesertOkie

Does he push in with his retriever?


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## jerad

i had one like that about 2 years ago, but it had 2 of those connected together it looked like 2 legs and a waist and just as long. the guy had 2 other people out and they gave up. i used a k-60 :thumbsup: and pulled it right out about 90 feet out. i was suprised it even came out of the drain there was no way i would ever be able to fit it back in if his check bounced!:laughing:


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## Epox

I had a root ripper lock me down a few yearx ago. Couldn't rotate head either way. Ultimately told the owner of this rental property we needed to dig it up and repair entry. He said just call it a day I said nopes my cable is stuck in your roots, we have to dig it will be X amount.


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## gear junkie

What machine were you using the root ripper on? Got the same head but now you're scaring me.


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## Epox

Mytana with 3/4" cable. I used it sometime later and it almost done it again. It's still on the truck but I don't plan to use it again. Biggest mistake I made with it was thinking I could reverse out of a tight wad of roots. It gathers them up in both directions. Probly more for a 1.25 cable.


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## johnlewismcleod

Epox said:


> Mytana with 3/4" cable. I used it sometime later and it almost done it again. It's still on the truck but I don't plan to use it again. Biggest mistake I made with it was thinking I could reverse out of a tight wad of roots. It gathers them up in both directions. Probly more for a 1.25 cable.


Solid core cable or hollow core?


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## Epox

Solid


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## TX MECH PLUMBER

Epox said:


> Solid


Why ???


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## johnlewismcleod

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> Why ???


So it doesn't turn back on itself :yes:....oh, wait! :blink:



:laughing:


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## Epox

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> Why ???


Why not?


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## TX MECH PLUMBER

Epox said:


> Why not?


I've never ran on. I'm asking really what's the purpose. I've only ran ridgid sectional machines. K 50 60 1500. This core is on drum cables ??? Keeps your cable from kinking so easy ??


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## Epox

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> I've never ran on. I'm asking really what's the purpose. I've only ran ridgid sectional machines. K 50 60 1500. This core is on drum cables ??? Keeps your cable from kinking so easy ??


Right. And doubling back. I have a 3ft. whip on end which makes it gentler on the turns which is hollow. Never had a problem with it.
I have never run the machines you mentioned so really can't compare.
Yep my rig is a Mytana drum machine.


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## ChrisConnor

The idea of solid core it the cable will tighten down and make it more rod-like and stiff to deliver better torque. Supposedly when the cable is torqued on the inner core it has "bitten down" on the inner core and should resist tight kinking. If the inner core extends from cable end to cable end, it's also harder to roll into the reel because the inner core pushes on the ends of the cable, keeping it straighter and resisting curling/kinking.

I've used both and hollow core is fine by me. I've kinked both. I've tried the wire inner core, the plastic inner core and the cable in cable inner core. I think inner core has it's most significant benefit in medium cables 1/2"- 5/8". 

Spartan's Youtube channel has some cable testing comparisons. They don't seem to compare against any General inner core, though.

Epox, you were using General cable with your M-81 weren't you?

There's a method of breaking your cable by folding it over a tight loop and stomping it to the ground. That's nearly impossible to do with inner core and if you succeed, there's still the inner core in there that may or may not pull out.

One good thing about inner core it that there's a little less sling of poo water with the open drum.


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## plbgbiz

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> I've never ran on. I'm asking really what's the purpose. I've only ran ridgid sectional machines. K 50 60 1500. This core is on drum cables ??? Keeps your cable from kinking so easy ??


Ridgid's sectional cables are available with an inner core.


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## Epox

ChrisConnor said:


> The idea of solid core it the cable will tighten down and make it more rod-like and stiff to deliver better torque. Supposedly when the cable is torqued on the inner core it has "bitten down" on the inner core and should resist tight kinking. If the inner core extends from cable end to cable end, it's also harder to roll into the reel because the inner core pushes on the ends of the cable, keeping it straighter and resisting curling/kinking.
> 
> I've used both and hollow core is fine by me. I've kinked both. I've tried the wire inner core, the plastic inner core and the cable in cable inner core. I think inner core has it's most significant benefit in medium cables 1/2"- 5/8".
> 
> Spartan's Youtube channel has some cable testing comparisons. They don't seem to compare against any General inner core, though.
> 
> Epox, you were using General cable with your M-81 weren't you?
> 
> There's a method of breaking your cable by folding it over a tight loop and stomping it to the ground. That's nearly impossible to do with inner core and if you succeed, there's still the inner core in there that may or may not pull out.
> 
> One good thing about inner core it that there's a little less sling of poo water with the open drum.


Correct I use the General inner cable.


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## gear junkie

plbgbiz said:


> Ridgid's sectional cables are available with an inner core.


Ridgid has plastic and General has 1/2" drum cable. I have a metric ton of general innercore 7/8" cable if anyone needs some.


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## johntheplumber

gear junkie said:


> Ridgid has plastic and General has 1/2" drum cable. I have a metric ton of general innercore 7/8" cable if anyone needs some.


If it was an imperial ton then yes. But a metric ton...


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## HonestPlumb

I have had it happen a few times. There are some good suggestions that have been given. Just hope it doesn't snap off. Then you will be digging for sure. Unless it snaps off clean at an end. Then you give the cone shaped retriever head a try. Which is how I have been able to get one back. I've had three of us just bouncing it in and out by hand for an hour and boom it came free. If it has flipped on itself, I really don't know if you'll get it with out digging. If it isn't that deep and not a major disruptive to the area, then that might be the most cost efficient way to go. You could spend so much time attempting to remove it, and nothing works. I really hope it just pops free for you. We all know what it feels like to be in your situation. Best of luck.


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## MACK ATTAKK

Gettinit said:


> I have heard people run a jetter if it were roots to free their cable. Some have even run another cable beside it to free it up. Patience and luck to you whatever you decide.


Nice


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