# How did u learn your copper pipes



## hellenicsnowman (Nov 15, 2012)

K for Kawasaki 
L for labatt blue a beer from here
M for menstruation
Dwv for pee color

How did u learn yours


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## Ishmael (Dec 9, 2009)

I was told "M" is for heat, "L" is for domestic water, "DWV" is for drains, wastes and vents, and don't worry about "K", you'll never use it.


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## MarkToo (Dec 17, 2011)

hellenicsnowman said:


> K for Kawasaki
> L for labatt blue a beer from here
> M for menstruation
> Dwv for pee color
> ...



Or you could check it against the alphabet and find the letters actually follow each other in order...


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## UN1TED-WE-PLUMB (Oct 3, 2012)

M is for cheap plumbers
L is for real plumbers
K was used when copper didn't cost as much as gold
Dwv is drain waste vent
:laughing:
:laughing:
:laughing:


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

He's talking about the color paint on the different grades. 




I never spent any time with a "system" to learn the colors. I guess I just remembered what they were by using my brain.









Paul


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## Hillside (Jan 22, 2010)

I only buy M for w.h t&p lines


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## MarkToo (Dec 17, 2011)

rocksteady said:


> He's talking about the color paint on the different grades.



Well in that case - "*G*ang *B*angs *R* *Y*ucky". Not an opinion but, it's what popped into my head back in trade school...


Edit: I've never spoken this aloud before


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

What nobody ever heard of White type H ?


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

Memorized them.


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## TerryO (Oct 12, 2012)

OldSchool said:


> What nobody ever heard of White type H ?


Yep. Started 1974 in Edmonton Alberta. We used H on hot water heating. Been in Texas since 1984 and I don't think anyone here has ever heard of it.

Terry Ohlmann / www.ActionAirPlumbing.com


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

TerryO said:


> Yep. Started 1974 in Edmonton Alberta. We used H on hot water heating. Been in Texas since 1984 and I don't think anyone here has ever heard of it.
> 
> Terry Ohlmann / www.ActionAirPlumbing.com


Exactly ... Type H was for heating and is way thinner than M


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## TerryO (Oct 12, 2012)

OldSchool said:


> Exactly ... Type H was for heating and is way thinner than M


No kidding, way thinner. When cutting with tube cutter you have to baby it. Do they still use it?

Terry Ohlmann / www.ActionAirPlumbing.com


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

TerryO said:


> No kidding, way thinner. When cutting with tube cutter you have to baby it. Do they still use it?
> 
> Terry Ohlmann / www.ActionAirPlumbing.com


The pipe is no longer available up here ... The convectors or as some say copper rads are still type H unless you ask for type M

Type H can be used on a closed system boiler and type M for open system


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## futz (Sep 17, 2009)

> *How did u learn your copper pipes*


Just memorized them. It's only four letters and colors, fer pete's sake (five if you count H). Pretty simple stuff.


TerryO said:


> No kidding, way thinner. When cutting with tube cutter you have to baby it. Do they still use it?


I think it's used in baseboard radiators (fin). I actually prefer to cut my baseboard pipe ends with tin snips instead of a pipe cutter. Has to be a good pair - dull or sprung snips just don't cut it. :laughing:

Anyone ever run into the old 3/4" steel pipe sized like copper and solderable for baseboard heating? I took a bunch out once. At first we couldn't figure out why the "copper" was so "silver".


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

hellenicsnowman said:


> ?...How did u learn yours


I was dealt with in a somewhat harsh manner when I bought K instead of M with Gramp's money. 

It has been pretty well committed to memory ever since.


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

MarkToo said:


> Well in that case - "Gang Bangs R Yucky". Not an opinion but, it's what popped into my head back in trade school...
> 
> Edit: I recite this in the mirror 100 times daily


Preserved for future teasing... 
:jester:


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## MarkToo (Dec 17, 2011)

U666A said:


> Preserved for future teasing...
> :jester:


A couple scotch's and my better judgement isn't...

Awesome.


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## Fast fry (May 19, 2012)

MarkToo said:


> Or you could check it against the alphabet and find the letters actually follow each other in order...


I don t get it


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## MarkToo (Dec 17, 2011)

Fast fry said:


> I don t get it


I didn't either.


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## AKdaplumba (Jan 12, 2010)

M- murderous red
L- Labatt Blue
k-Kermit is green.


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## ironandfire (Oct 9, 2008)

Honestly, I don't remember.


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## BigDave (Mar 24, 2012)

Learned mine by eyeballin' wall thickness.
I DON'T NEED NO STINKIN COLORED INK PRINTING!:jester:


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## AWWGH (May 2, 2011)

Yeah I'm going to have to agree that if you need a system to memorize the colors of piping you use everyday then you have bigger things to worry about.


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## Catlin987987 (Nov 12, 2010)

AWWGH said:


> Yeah I'm going to have to agree that if you need a system to memorize the colors of piping you use everyday then you have bigger things to worry about.


Exactly There's only 4 colours


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

I use to install so much copper my left use to be the color of the pipe we were using and my right hand use to be green from sanding the copper


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

OldSchool said:


> I use to install so much copper my left use to be the color of the pipe we were using and my right hand use to be green from sanding the copper


You're not kidding either... I've had the same but opposite!

I'm a south paw


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

my cigs didnt taste right for 4 years , lotta copper installed though


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## futz (Sep 17, 2009)

BigDave said:


> Learned mine by eyeballin' wall thickness.
> I DON'T NEED NO STINKIN COLORED INK PRINTING!:jester:


Ya, I can't always tell by wall thickness, but I can almost always tell without looking what it is just by hefting it (weight).


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## moonapprentice (Aug 23, 2012)

OldSchool said:


> What nobody ever heard of White type H ?


Ever heard of type d cu? Anaconda brand ... Some cheap stuff always leaking


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## Chadillac80 (Dec 22, 2012)

K King
L Luther
M Martin


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

Chadillac80 said:


> K King
> L Luther
> M Martin


And you are...?


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

U666A said:


> And you are...?


I got beat again..


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## Chadillac80 (Dec 22, 2012)

Journeyman out of Texas. New to the site.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Chadillac80 said:


> Journeyman out of Texas. New to the site.


 Then do the proper intro...


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## BROOKLYN\PLUMB (May 21, 2010)

You guys are all talking tubing not pipes! Copper pipe also known as tp (threadless pipe) is one wall thickness (thick as hell) and no color or letter designation


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## alberteh (Feb 26, 2012)

as other posters mentioned there is only a few types so... just remember them.


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## BROOKLYN\PLUMB (May 21, 2010)

I stand corrected GREY! 

I have never seen it with the lettering still on it 



Threadless Copper Pipe (TP)

Threadless copper pipe, often referred to as TP pipe, is a seamless copper pipe material manufactured to the requirements of ASTM B 302 – Standard specification for Threadless Copper Pipe, Standard Sizes. This pipe may be manufactured from either of two alloys, C10300 or C12200 with C12200 being the most popular. Both of these alloys are composed of copper (Cu) concentrations in excess of 99.9% thereby making this material an almost pure copper product. Threadless copper pipe (TP) is manufactured in drawn temper (hard) only and is furnished in H58 temper in nominal or standard sizes ¼” through 12”. The outside diameter of threadless copper pipe (TP) is essentially the same as schedule 40 pipe, although the wall thickness is much less than that for the same size pipe. The available lengths for threadless copper pipe is 20 foot for sizes ¼” to 10” with 12” being furnished in 15 foot lengths.

Threadless copper pipe (TP) is required, by the standard, to be identified by a gray colored stripe throughout its length that contains the manufacturers name or trademark, the nation of origin and “TP”. It is further required to be incised at intervals not less than 1½ feet with the manufacturers name or trademark and “TP” throughout its entire length.

Threadless copper pipe (TP) is usually joined by brazed socket-cup type fittings or socket-cup type flanges. It should be noted that standard copper pressure fittings of the B16.22 or B16.18 type are not compatible for use with TP pipe.


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## reedplumber (Sep 25, 2012)

hellenicsnowman said:


> K for Kawasaki
> L for labatt blue a beer from here
> M for menstruation
> Dwv for pee color
> ...


K for kiwi
L for little boy blue
M for magenta 
And pee for dwv as well lol

Sent from a rotary phone.


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## plumbing ninja (Jan 15, 2012)

We don't use US Copper standards but if we did this is how I would remember

K - Killed in Action
L - Looking for Action
M - Missing in action
DMV - Damn my vices

or KLM is also the Dutch national airline


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## Rando (Dec 31, 2012)

Dad showed me once when i was about seven years old and I just remembered. not real complicated. :laughing:


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## plumbny (Apr 6, 2013)

I learned

Kay ur soft
Blue is cold or l
Red or m is heat
And yellow is piss or dwv


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## Mr-Green (Apr 29, 2013)

K- most money in scrap
L- good money in scrap
M- less money in scrap
DWV- drain waste vent


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## brians plumbing (Jan 12, 2012)

M = residential
L = commercial
K = medical
DWV = drain

I know this doesn't always apply but it worked for me


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

Ishmael said:


> I was told "M" is for heat, "L" is for domestic water, "DWV" is for drains, wastes and vents, and don't worry about "K", you'll never use it.


M is thin wall pipe (used mostly in residential since its cheaper, and is used less so less flow, for sure not recommend for heating as a circ pump runs non stop while unit is on) L is the next thickest, used in higher end homes, and commercial, heating. k is commercial-really industrial, and the thickest wall pipe, and used on water service. DWV is the thinnest of all and was used for drain waste and vent, but is not used except for a repair, of an older system to my knowledge anymore (paper thin)


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

m, L, and k are for domestic water, dwv is only for drains, waste, and vent, due to wall thickness


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## 504Plumber (Jan 26, 2011)

Whoever uses m for residential or anything other than a pan or relief line needs to be slapped.


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## Joeypipes 23 (Feb 2, 2011)

My understanding:

M is for heating only
L is domestic water
K is for underground 
Dwv the obvious


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

504Plumber said:


> Whoever uses m for residential or anything other than a pan or relief line needs to be slapped.


Its been done alot in spec houses for ever, is it stupid yes! but its done


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

Joeypipes 23 said:


> My understanding:
> 
> M is for heating only
> L is domestic water
> ...


m for heating? Heating has more flow times then domestic


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## Joeypipes 23 (Feb 2, 2011)

gardon said:


> m for heating? Heating has more flow times then domestic


Yea but it's not as thick for heating purposes I was told if you use m for domestic it's a violation


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

Joeypipes 23 said:


> Yea but it's not as thick for heating purposes I was told if you use m for domestic it's a violation


theres no code for domestic and m copper except underground


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## Joeypipes 23 (Feb 2, 2011)

gardon said:


> theres no code for domestic and m copper except underground


Where are you from?


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Joeypipes 23 said:


> Where are you from?


 Where did it SAYS that 'M' is for heating only???


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

Joeypipes 23 said:


> Where are you from?


Look next to my name ..... Peoria,IL 3 hours out of Chicago


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

gardon said:


> Look next to my name ..... Peoria,IL 3 hours out of Chicago


 A town now without a hockey team..


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

rjbphd said:


> A town now without a hockey team..


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## Joeypipes 23 (Feb 2, 2011)

gardon said:


> Look next to my name ..... Peoria,IL 3 hours out of Chicago


Easy man simple question. Not worth the effort of looking up your profile


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## Joeypipes 23 (Feb 2, 2011)

gardon said:


> Look next to my name ..... Peoria,IL 3 hours out of Chicago


Your plumbing code is different from ours in NYC anyway


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Joeypipes 23 said:


> Your plumbing code is different from ours in NYC anyway


But tell us where did it say that 'M' is for heating only???


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

Joeypipes 23 said:


> Easy man simple question. Not worth the effort of looking up your profile


What i meant look to the left of every post or reply i make... like this one. GARDON right under it says Peoria,IL and im not upset, stop reading my response's mean.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

gardon said:


> What i meant look to the left of every post or reply i make... like this one. GARDON right under it says Peoria,IL and im not upset, stop reading my response's mean.


On phone app... doesn't shows where ya from...just ur name...


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

that explains it then


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Here's a very interesting read. You think you know a lot about copper well thers always more to learn !!!


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## 504Plumber (Jan 26, 2011)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> Here's a very interesting read. You think you know a lot about copper well thers always more to learn !!!


Just because they say you can doesn't mean you always should. M is against code for any water distribution down here. Everything we run is in L and for good reason, M is too thin in my opinion.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

I agree 504. I didn't intend my post like that. Didnt even notice it said m is for water. I ment the whole book It talks about how copper is drawn and made. Gives charts on how heavy it is empty or full of water by the foot. All kinds of cool info in this book. It's on my I phone. It tells the volume a pipe can hold. Ect ect ect 

K is for steam condensate or under ground. L is for water. M is dwv if that. I early use it. Dwv is trash I've never used it. Haven't seen any m in my truck in years. A/cr for a/c. And med gas for med gas.


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## Chadillac80 (Dec 22, 2012)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> I agree 504. I didn't intend my post like that. Didnt even notice it said m is for water. I ment the whole book It talks about how copper is drawn and made. Gives charts on how heavy it is empty or full of water by the foot. All kinds of cool info in this book. It's on my I phone. It tells the volume a pipe can hold. Ect ect ect
> 
> K is for steam condensate or under ground. L is for water. M is dwv if that. I early use it. Dwv is trash I've never used it. Haven't seen any m in my truck in years. A/cr for a/c. And med gas for med gas.


I searched "The Copper Tube Handbook" in the App Store and on iBooks...nothing. What did you find it under?


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

http://www.copper.org/publications/pub_list/pdf/copper_tube_handbook.pdf


Here it is. I ment I thought I new a lot about copper but learned some when I read this book


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

I found it and put it on my I books. Let me know if the link works


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

504Plumber said:


> Just because they say you can doesn't mean you always should. M is against code for any water distribution down here. Everything we run is in L and for good reason, M is too thin in my opinion.


The reason M was used in housing up here, was do to cost on spec house's and the price wars housing contractors were up against (again you would see this in spec's not mid to high end homes) And if you were working for a company, and thats what they bid and dropped off to you, you put it in or went home.) I would of never thought it was not allowed in new Orleans, as i saw quite a few house's with the vent stack's run all the way up the side of the house, LOL! Yet they draw the line at m copper. (dont get me wrong m is crap, but you do what your told, and put in what they give ya if its legal, and you want a pay check, you can still put it in straight!, 15-20 years you can come back and fix the pin holes LOL! sooner if your using it for heating!) :laughing:


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

I got that same handbook from a CEU course in Texas once, good info in it.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

M for heating is just crazy !!!!!


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## Chadillac80 (Dec 22, 2012)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> I found it and put it on my I books. Let me know if the link works


Links not working. Who's the author?


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## 504Plumber (Jan 26, 2011)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> I agree 504. I didn't intend my post like that. Didnt even notice it said m is for water. I ment the whole book It talks about how copper is drawn and made. Gives charts on how heavy it is empty or full of water by the foot. All kinds of cool info in this book. It's on my I phone. It tells the volume a pipe can hold. Ect ect ect
> 
> K is for steam condensate or under ground. L is for water. M is dwv if that. I early use it. Dwv is trash I've never used it. Haven't seen any m in my truck in years. A/cr for a/c. And med gas for med gas.


Oh I knew what you meant. Want to see something cool about copper? Search YouTube for how it's made copper fittings. It is nuts watching them make a 4" tee.


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## 504Plumber (Jan 26, 2011)

gardon said:


> The reason M was used in housing up here, was do to cost on spec house's and the price wars housing contractors were up against (again you would see this in spec's not mid to high end homes) And if you were working for a company, and thats what they bid and dropped off to you, you put it in or went home.) I would of never thought it was not allowed in new Orleans, as i saw quite a few house's with the vent stack's run all the way up the side of the house, LOL! Yet they draw the line at m copper. (dont get me wrong m is crap, but you do what your told, and put in what they give ya if its legal, and you want a pay check, you can still put it in straight!, 15-20 years you can come back and fix the pin holes LOL! sooner if your using it for heating!) :laughing:


What's wrong with a vent on the side of a house? I wouldn't do it on a slab but if we replace a sewer under a raised house, add something and no walls were opened.. What then?


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

504Plumber said:


> Oh I knew what you meant. Want to see something cool about copper? Search YouTube for how it's made copper fittings. It is nuts watching them make a 4" tee.


Seen it. It is cool


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

504Plumber said:


> What's wrong with a vent on the side of a house? I wouldn't do it on a slab but if we replace a sewer under a raised house, add something and no walls were opened.. What then?


LOL it just looks goofy! Here's one for ya, when i was down there rebuilding after katrina, Another traveler come's up and said he broke the curb stop, i said oh sh*t, we need to get a backhoe and dig it up and fix it. I Told my foreman, that we needed a backhoe to dig it up, and he said why a backhoe? (LOL IN IL we bury them 4' deep because of freezing temps, it was only a 1' deep...... Im not used to warm winters


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## 504Plumber (Jan 26, 2011)

gardon said:


> LOL it just looks goofy! Here's one for ya, when i was down there rebuilding after katrina, Another traveler come's up and said he broke the curb stop, i said oh sh*t, we need to get a backhoe and dig it up and fix it. I Told my foreman, that we needed a backhoe to dig it up, and he said why a backhoe? (LOL IN IL we bury them 4' deep because of freezing temps, it was only a 1' deep...... Im not used to warm winters


Haha, sometimes it's nice. From now to August it can bite me. I can't wait for winter.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Chadillac80 said:


> Links not working. Who's the author?


Go to yahoo search for it and click the first non highlighted link


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

504Plumber said:


> What's wrong with a vent on the side of a house? I wouldn't do it on a slab but if we replace a sewer under a raised house, add something and no walls were opened.. What then?


Now a days a crack head will steel it when they steel ur a/c condenser and the stubb outs for it. Lol


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## AQualityPlumber (Nov 16, 2012)

Some of you guys don't sound like you know your facts. 
Type M is fine for all potable, heating, and air applications. 
The only reason you would use L is if you wanted to braise on it or put underground because all soft copper is type L anyways. 
K is really only necessary if you are doing medical gas and mostly used in refrigeration because you can braise the heck out of it without having a melt down and put a lot more pressure to it. If you plan on using copper as DWV do not it will be rotten away within 40-50 years, maybe sooner.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Lmao. That's your opinion. I know what I was taught and what I've seen I have and will never use m for potable water. Never seen It spect for potable water and never for heating. Heating circulates so much using m is just stupid!!!! As for using it a dwv install I've done it but don't care for it 

L or K is for potable water plain and simple !!!

My opinion and pretty much the rule of thumb around here


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

I see your a mechanical engineer Guess your books in school said m is for heating and potable water ??? Do you spend more time in the field or more in the office ???


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

AQualityPlumber said:


> ...because all soft copper is type L anyways...


Yep soft copper is always type L....except when it is type K.

Soft K is the typical spec here for taps off the main, lines under a street, and commercial services under pavement.


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

m is for potable water as well, at least up north, it appears not down south though from what you guys are saying, but trust me it is up north, its perfectly legal here. and yes k come in soft or ridgid pipe


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

and when i say m is not for heating, i mean its stupid if thats your choice of piping due to the flow it go's through, if you want to use it go for it, but its not just for heating.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> M for heating is just crazy !!!!!


So why is that?? Only for a/C then??


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

AQualityPlumber said:


> Some of you guys don't sound like you know your facts.
> Type M is fine for all potable, heating, and air applications.
> The only reason you would use L is if you wanted to braise on it or put underground because all soft copper is type L anyways.
> K is really only necessary if you are doing medical gas and mostly used in refrigeration because you can braise the heck out of it without having a melt down and put a lot more pressure to it. If you plan on using copper as DWV do not it will be rotten away within 40-50 years, maybe sooner.


Finally he's not whoring this site for business... by the way how can can type 'L' be soft copper if there's different AMSE ratings for each type??


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## newyorkcity (Nov 25, 2010)

*really?*



AQualityPlumber said:


> Some of you guys don't sound like you know your facts.
> Type M is fine for all potable, heating, and air applications.
> The only reason you would use L is if you wanted to braise on it or put underground because all soft copper is type L anyways.
> K is really only necessary if you are doing medical gas and mostly used in refrigeration because you can braise the heck out of it without having a melt down and put a lot more pressure to it. If you plan on using copper as DWV do not it will be rotten away within 40-50 years, maybe sooner.


You "braise" a pot roast.
You "braze" a copper fitting.


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

plbgbiz said:


> Yep soft copper is always type L....except when it is type K.
> 
> Soft K is the typical spec here for taps off the main, lines under a street, and commercial services under pavement.


And soft copper is always type L, except when it is type K, also when it is type "ACR".....................:yes:


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

M is approved for potable water here, its also approved to use underground if your dumb enough to use it for either. Its used in heat because a boiler treats the water in the system to a point that it wont get pin holes within a year's time. And we are talking low pressure boilers they run between10-15 lbs. M is fine for that. Steam or high pressure boilers shouldn't even include copper in the installation. The thinner schedule also transfers heat better. Although I recommend insulating your lines to insure the baseboard actually transfers the heat not the pipe leading to it.

L is what you should be using for potable water inside a building. If your a plumber with any scruples.

K has its place also mostly underground. Once its burried y would you want to dig it back up in your lifetime?

What I miss (the older guys here will know what im talking about) is M-BT & L-BT....

How did I learn this you ask? Simple I listened to what my boss told me on the first day of working with copper tube. Not that hard to remember, didn't need an acronym for it.


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

Wow this is an old thread now that I look back. O.S. has posts in the beginning of it. Who is grave digging this crap up?


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

504Plumber said:


> What's wrong with a vent on the side of a house? I wouldn't do it on a slab but if we replace a sewer under a raised house, add something and no walls were opened.. What then?


Its "ghetto" find a closet to run it through, or open a wall. The code here allows us to do it if there is no other options available. I.E. an old house made out of stone. But it must be pre approved by inspector. Also it cannot terminate under a soffit or overhang. But looks like garbage in my opinion. If you are going to do it atleast try and hide it tight to a corner or a chimney.


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## Joeypipes 23 (Feb 2, 2011)

gardon said:


> What i meant look to the left of every post or reply i make... like this one. GARDON right under it says Peoria,IL and im not upset, stop reading my response's mean.


I have the iPhone it doesn't show that my apologies


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

Joeypipes 23 said:


> I have the iPhone it doesn't show that my apologies


I didn't know that until another member pointed that out, im still new and have not used this with my iphone yet, only from laptop:thumbsup:


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

gardon said:


> I didn't know that until another member pointed that out, im still new and have not used this with my iphone yet, only from laptop:thumbsup:


Try the phone app I like it better. No advertising either.


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

theplumbinator said:


> Try the phone app I like it better. No advertising either.


will do thanks so its an app? i find in the app store i take it?


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

found it thanks


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

gardon said:


> found it thanks


It's pretty good using it now!


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

gardon said:


> will do thanks so its an app? i find in the app store i take it?


Yep I got it at Google Play free... (android user) they also have it for the I-phone. The app is powered by forumrunner if you have that app it will also work but forumrunner isn't free.


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

I wondered how everyone was using phones, I did not know about the app, this is actually easier then the laptop, thanks again (theplumbinator)

I thought everyone was using the browser on there phones, which would of been a nightmare but app is great


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

No prob enjoy... Yeah almost impossible to use the browser on the phone. Makes me cross eyed...


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Yea I'm waiting on another app for my phone. The browser sucks to use over ther


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> Yea I'm waiting on another app for my phone. The browser sucks to use over ther


Amen brother!


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

They are stained from brown Jersey gloves !! I was installing a com boiler yesterday with L copper. And it was sweat pics to come


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## phishfood (Nov 18, 2012)

Corn boiler? What is that?


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

phishfood said:


> Corn boiler? What is that?


...


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## phishfood (Nov 18, 2012)

You call those "corn boilers"?

Thanks for reminding me, I need to go clean mine.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

phishfood said:


> You call those "corn boilers"?
> 
> Thanks for reminding me, I need to go clean mine.


What happened to the mr clean middle finger post???


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## phishfood (Nov 18, 2012)

I'm confused?


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

rjbphd said:


> What happened to the mr clean middle finger post???


It was trashed. How 'bout we not try to stir it up again, K?


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