# Watts 994 / Ames 4000SS TIPS???



## slpknt10l03 (Apr 7, 2010)

So Have any of you dealt much with Watts 994's / Ames 4000SS Backflow preventer's?

We're starting to get a lot of these failing (most often with debris in the first check - strainer-less install  ) and I am just having a hell of a time removing these checks.

I know according to the literature that you should be able to just use a screwdriver to help unthread the checks but come on, lol ... after a year or two in use this is a real joke.

the only way i seem to have any luck removing them is by beating the **** out them til they break loose.

Not a problem if the check actually needs replacing but is its just in need of a cleaning you really don't want to damage it.

So I was wondering if any of you have made any clever tools or have any neat tricks - because i'm fresh out!


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## 1703 (Jul 21, 2009)

I've repaired some and I know what you mean. You got no room to swing anything with any leverage to turn it out. 

I've never asked but maybe watts sells a way over priced tool?

If you come up with a solution put it up here.

Other than moral support, I got nuttin'.


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## slpknt10l03 (Apr 7, 2010)

all they have to say on their website is:

Do not use Check Arm as a handle to unscrew.
If Check cannot be loosened by hand, insert a long screwdriver
between valve body and Check (see figure 2). Gently
apply pressure against the Check until loosened. Finish
unscrewing by hand.



I think i know a way to make some kind of tool, but it'll have to be specific to each size check valve.... maybe i'll weld it to a socket so i can put on a ratchet... hmmmm ... thinking....


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## 1703 (Jul 21, 2009)

Maybe a 5/8" all thread coupling welded to something like a short 1/2" ratchet extension, making a "tee" shape.

You could use your ratchet in the extension and then cut different lengths of all thread, for different size valves, to screw in the coupling and unscrew the check.

Does that make any sense?


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

They suck! One of the school districts I do has a bunch of these craptacular turdlogs on the their fire water mains. Hate them, hate them, hate them. I had to destroy the checks to get them out, hello insanely expensive rebuild kit.


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

I use a long chisel I have ground the end blunt to remove them. Couple pops with a 2 lb. hammer and they spin right out. 

Grease on the threads and o-ring from the factory would help GREATLY.


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## slpknt10l03 (Apr 7, 2010)

lol, well i'm glad that i'm not the only one that has problems with these. next week I'm digging into both an 8" and a 6" 994 ..... hang me now!


:wallbash:

:hang:


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

Don't forget to open #2 to relieve the pressure from the backside of the check. (If you're working on the first check that is.....)


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## slpknt10l03 (Apr 7, 2010)

here she is ---- notice the shut off right up against that vent. ... yay










then i came across this little guy just outside, lol.










and no thats not a just a crack in the paint!


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

slpknt10l03 said:


> here she is ---- notice the shut off right up against that vent. ... yay
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Is that outside!? Must be nice. I have seen that sort of thing in Arizona.


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## slpknt10l03 (Apr 7, 2010)

jjbex said:


> Is that outside!? Must be nice. I have seen that sort of thing in Arizona.



yeah that blue guy is on a 909 feeding lawn irrigation for a football field. I guess they didn't get all the water last fall. :thumbup:


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

I am bumping this thread because I invented a tool today. It was a 4" Ames 4001 SS that I couldn't unscrew the checks. There happened to be a piece of 5/8" allthread lying on a piece of equipment nearby. I cut two 4" long pieces and stuck them into the holes molded into the checks and used a crowbar for a lever and was able to unscrew them. Yay! I went from Goofus to Gallant.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

*nice tool*

I saw this, too.
http://www.check-key.com/


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

Give Test Gauge & Backflow Supply a call, they have a couple tools for removing the checks #1 and #2 in these. http://testgauge.net/ Also they have service manuals for download of most backflow prevention devieces.

Test Gauge & Backflow Supply Inc.
2587 Millennium Dr. Unit K2
Elgin, IL 60124
Toll Free: 866-836-8692
Phone: 866-836-8692
Fax: 847-836-9455
[email protected]


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

Their troubleshooting guide/catalog is a lifesaver. It rides in the cab with me and is used heavily right now, it's testing time since school's out.


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## TPWinc (May 30, 2011)

Now that you have the check removal tool figured out here's another tip. All of the 994/4000ss assemblies have a small bolt welded on the outside of the flange for the #2 shut off valve. Next time you have the #1 check removed you will notice a hole in the spring lever. This is not a coinsidence. The bolt is for opening the first check valve for inspection. Put the hole in the spring lever over the small bolt and against the flange bolt just below it (spring side down). Push down and the check will be easily opened and locked. I will take a picture of this and post soon.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

TPWinc said:


> Now that you have the check removal tool figured out here's another tip. All of the 994/4000ss assemblies have a small bolt welded on the outside of the flange for the #2 shut off valve. Next time you have the #1 check removed you will notice a hole in the spring lever. This is not a coinsidence. The bolt is for opening the first check valve for inspection. Put the hole in the spring lever over the small bolt and against the flange bolt just below it (spring side down). Push down and the check will be easily opened and locked. I will take a picture of this and post soon.



Yes,
that bolt is about the only way to get the cam arm to cock back and lock open. However, the two 4000SS's I worked on today were problematic. One was installed so the bolt is against the wall. On the other, the sprinkies made a blowdown manifold with the vertical leg right in front of the flange with the bolt. They could have put in anywhere, but noooo, it had to go in the only place where it would screw the guy trying to rebuild the RPZ.


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## trdhrdr (Apr 18, 2011)

Test Gauge and Backflow Supply is the answer to all your backflow needs. Great technical support, parts, and tools. Ask for Rich or Jason. Help me out all the time if I ever have issues with a device.


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