# How I roll



## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

I did this Thursday and Friday. The slab was 8" thick, and the cement had some kind of hardener in it. The jack hammer didn't chip or break the concrete, it basically had to pulverise it. It is a "blastproof" building in a chemical refinery. The shower will be a swanstone base and panels.


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## uaplumber (Jun 16, 2008)

:thumbsup:


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

I used clear primer, because I wasn't sure how much, if any of the floor was getting replaced. The cleanout is going to extend about 4 foot, running behind the shower.


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## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

:thumbsup:

good job! I like those Holdrite Remodel kits for my installs. they are pretty clean for installs.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

I didn't use hold-rites, but thanks for the thumbsup.


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

Nice job, keep the pix coming!


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

Looks great thanks for sharing.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

I cut tees into the water supply for a mens' bathroom. The lines ran overhead. I was able to shut down the entire building, sweat in my tees, sweat in valves and turn the water back on. Before I removed the valve handles, I bumped the hot and sent a little water trickling down the new plumbing wall. When you are my size, it's hard to work thru the ceiling grids without hitting stuff. I used *Armaflex *insulation over the pipes in the ceiling, and thru the holes in the metal studs. I am not insulating in the plumbing wall because the batt is going right back in. I used copper plated minis to hold the pipes in place. I made a backer for the drop ear ell out of the channel/track the carpenters put down as a plate for the metal studs. I bid this for 4 days. One day for my 8 hour safety orientation, 2 days of rough, and 1 trim. I will actually trim it when I install the base and panels. The Moen valve has the integral stops, so I don't have to get into the ceiling anymore.


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## PLUMB TIME (Feb 2, 2009)

You would think that with all the money they have at a chemical refinery they could at least spring for a Moentrol:laughing:


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## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

Is it a Moentrol???? Code here UPC, says pressure balanced anti scald valve, Moentrol would be the most reliable, least expensive version,t he regular Moen pressure balance valves have a spindle that is horrible, any bit of debris and your screwed. $$ to replace it too, it's like $60.


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## PLUMB TIME (Feb 2, 2009)

looks like a posi-temp but it could be me. The moentrols are wider I think


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

It's a posi-temp. It's what Columbia had on the shelf. A Symmons was spec'ed. I told them that they would have to wait two weeks for parts on it. Moen is huge here, every service plumber has cartridges on their van.


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## PLUMB TIME (Feb 2, 2009)

I use moen when people aren't looking for top of the line. Ithink there good valves and I've never had one we couldn't repair. Also great with there warranty, usually a two,three day turnaround, no questions asked.:thumbup:


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## rbsremodeling (Dec 6, 2008)

How deep is that pipe in the ground? 

Looks kinda of shallow from the top of the concrete.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

It is right under the finished floor. The base and the pipe chase are going to cover it up. A little skim coat is going over it.


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## rbsremodeling (Dec 6, 2008)

jjbex said:


> It is right under the finished floor. The base and the pipe chase are going to cover it up. A little skim coat is going over it.



Gotcha. The inspectors here will give you grief if you cant get at least 2" of concrete over it.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

Don't need to worry about inspectors on this one.


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