# Root 66 owners



## Maximumplumbing (Nov 6, 2010)

Anybody use one regularly? Reviews are limited and I need something for the tough to get to spots. I know the k60 is popular, but I have a lot if general equipment, and have no issues with it. I would like to talk on the phone if possible about it.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

Few guys here use them. If parts are local fior you I don't see much difference between the root 66 and K60. They do the same things. K60 does spin faster


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## Maximumplumbing (Nov 6, 2010)

I read where some guys feel comfortable using the k60 on most of there residential 4" sewers. I've never used a sectional, so I'm pretty uneducated about it. I'm sure neither will handle a decent root job, but if I run into that, I'm pushing to jet anyway. 
I sometimes run into what looks to be a 4", and as soon as it leaves the building turns to a 6" clay, I don't know this until the camera goes in. One if my concerns is coming intone of those sixes blind and that sectional balling or flipping over in there.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

K60 can handle 4" i'd assume the the Root 66 could also. IF the blockage is severe and full of roots, then are larger machine like a GO68HD, Spartan 1065, Ridgid K7500 or a large sectional like a Electric Eel Model C or Ridgid K1500 would be the better choice.


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## Maximumplumbing (Nov 6, 2010)

I have the big dog drum from general, maxi rooter. It handles the larger, and root infested lines fine. Again, if it's in real bad shape, once water is flowing the Jetter is coming out to play. I just need something that one man can handle on the tough to get to spots to get things open. Looks like I need to make some room on the truck for the machine and carriers. I just wish there wasn't so much room needed.


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## wookie (Dec 16, 2008)

I have both units. K-60 does spin faster. 4" max is what i run into.

Both machines work fine. 66 is built like a battleship.

I'd suggest getting whichever is the better deal, can't go wrong with either one.


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## NORTHSTAR (Sep 16, 2010)

I own the root 66. Its built like a tank. Can run 4 different cables. 7/8 & 5/8 sectional cables and 5/16 or 1/4 in an attachable drum. Super versatile. There has been a couple times I couldnt clear a nasty root blockage with it. But I have definitely been successful many many times with my root 66. It spins slower than the k60. Slower speed can be good or bad. Good for smaller lines and cables. Bad when you hit a nasty root blockage. It does take practice to get your technique down. Speed vs torque. you cannot force the cable must let the speed nibble at the blockage


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

Can we get some pics if that Root 66? Seems like a beefier K50


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## Maximumplumbing (Nov 6, 2010)

I made the order today. Got 150' of 7/8" also. I'll get some pics when it comes in.


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## NORTHSTAR (Sep 16, 2010)

My root66 next to my k50


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## NORTHSTAR (Sep 16, 2010)

You may want to get a section of general 7/8" innercore to use as your front section. Its stiffer and does better on tough blockages


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

Looks like the Root 66 has a much better platform/base than the K50. The legs on the K50 suck. You ever use the K50 or did the Root 66 total take its place?


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## Maximumplumbing (Nov 6, 2010)

Well, we actually substituted all the cable with generals "pro flex" 7/8. The way I understand is that it's cable inner core. I'm a little concerned about the machine spinning all that weight. What do you think?


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

I'd went with the regular cable with out the inner, no point for the inner with the Root 66. I'd call them back and order the regular cable for it. I got 90' of the Genneral ic sectional cable and I never use it. I use the regular general sectional cable all the time with the K60 and it does all that is needed with in the specs of the machine.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Holy crap man with all that weight you might as well have bought a drum machine. You'll need at least 4 reels unless you can farmer walk 100+lbs easily. Well at least you'll never kink a cable


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## Maximumplumbing (Nov 6, 2010)

That's what I was afraid of. Is that 100 pounds an accurate number for 5-15' sections? Is the only draw back the weight?


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

I really think it's more then 100 lbsbut I'm not sure. Drawback is weight, any bend in the cable won't allow it to scrape all around the pipe, can't go through 2" with it, REALLY slows down the rpms and causes the machine to labor...plus it's way more expensive. Oh yeah....harder to keep clean cause of the innercore. Pulling it from a roof vent sucks. I keep 2 sections on the van and that's it. I think I have 9 sections total with the rest kept in the garage. Never used the other sections and should probably sell it. 

So why use it at all? It has less of a tendency to flip in 6". I like it for the tough job where you gotta grind on the roots for 5 minutes. Some people like it for the first section of cable....I like it for the last section cause it transmits power very well. Also useful when the machine is more then 2' away from the cleanout. Also works great for mortar down a pipe cause the heavy weight bouncing up and down will break it up fairly easily. 

so it does have it's place but it's really overated as a whole. Just curious....what made you get 150' of it?


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## NORTHSTAR (Sep 16, 2010)

gear junkie said:


> I really think it's more then 100 lbsbut I'm not sure. Drawback is weight, any bend in the cable won't allow it to scrape all around the pipe, can't go through 2" with it, REALLY slows down the rpms and causes the machine to labor...plus it's way more expensive. Oh yeah....harder to keep clean cause of the innercore. Pulling it from a roof vent sucks. I keep 2 sections on the van and that's it. I think I have 9 sections total with the rest kept in the garage. Never used the other sections and should probably sell it.
> 
> So why use it at all? It has less of a tendency to flip in 6". I like it for the tough job where you gotta grind on the roots for 5 minutes. Some people like it for the first section of cable....I like it for the last section cause it transmits power very well. Also useful when the machine is more then 2' away from the cleanout. Also works great for mortar down a pipe cause the heavy weight bouncing up and down will break it up fairly easily.
> 
> so it does have it's place but it's really overated as a whole. Just curious....what made you get 150' of it?


Gear junkie. Great info about using innercore for the last section. Now that I think about it, it would direct more power in. Ive had it as my front section. First and last sections may be the key. The regular wind can seen a little wimpy sometimes when you hit those nasty root blockages. Havent kinked one tho. Ive only had my root66 for about 6 months and still learning new techniques. I will probably call marv for another section of innercore. Would you mind posting pics of your favorite cutters for your k60?


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

I like the ridgid spiral saw, 4-bladed cutter and reverse auger. C-cutter don't work in a k60. I finally kinked a cable (makes 2 in the 7 years I've used it).....guess I have a 10' reverse auger now, lol. the technique that works for me is using the biggest spiral blade first. Just let it spin while keeping tension down on the cable.....enough tension so it sounds labor but not so much tension that it seriously slows down. when the motor flips in reverse you might want to back off, lol.


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## love2surf927 (Dec 22, 2011)

gear junkie said:


> I like the ridgid spiral saw, 4-bladed cutter and reverse auger. C-cutter don't work in a k60. I finally kinked a cable (makes 2 in the 7 years I've used it).....guess I have a 10' reverse auger now, lol. the technique that works for me is using the biggest spiral blade first. Just let it spin while keeping tension down on the cable.....enough tension so it sounds labor but not so much tension that it seriously slows down. when the motor flips in reverse you might want to back off, lol.


What is the concept of the reverse auger? How is it different from a straight or funnel auger and what do you use it for?


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

When you run the machine in foward, it skips over offset and bends. Put the k60 in revers and it self feeds and winds into the stoppage. Use it on roots....especially ficus. The difference between the reverse auger and the regular auger is the cable thickness. The reverse auger I've used has alot of use and still is in good shape. Rick on ridgid forum is who taught me about it(and alot of us)and I'd recommend you go through his old threads. He wrote a good review on it and the k60. Really that's probably the best idea.....go to the ridgid forum and read every thread on the k60. Rick and others have pretty much written a sectional bible on there.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/f56/

There you go....231 threads. It'll keep you busy for awhile.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

When I first started using the K60 I wanted to get more inner core. But the more and more I use the K60 the inner core is not needed. Not even as a first section. The regular sectional 7/8" cable is plenty stout enough for the k60 power. No need at all for the inner core. I have 90' (or maybe 105') that is basically brand new. Make me a offer on it if you want it.


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## Maximumplumbing (Nov 6, 2010)

Well I'm on the fence now. I called general, they say the pro flex is 11 pounds and the regular is 8 pounds.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Ok then....guess I need to start lifting more cause it felt way heavier then that.


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## saysflushable (Jun 15, 2009)

gear junkie said:


> I like the ridgid spiral saw, 4-bladed cutter and reverse auger. C-cutter don't work in a k60. I finally kinked a cable (makes 2 in the 7 years I've used it).....guess I have a 10' reverse auger now, lol. the technique that works for me is using the biggest spiral blade first. Just let it spin while keeping tension down on the cable.....enough tension so it sounds labor but not so much tension that it seriously slows down. when the motor flips in reverse you might want to back off, lol.


 DUDE 2 in 7 years!!!! Heck you know I borrow a K60 from time to time and I bet I have bought at least 5 new sections to replace the ones I ruined.:laughing:
I did just brake 1 more eel heavy duty cutter, 6 inch this time, I think that makes 5. dang I got to learn to go easy:laughing:


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Holy crap...you going to need 3/8 rodder sections to keep up with your heavy hand!


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## NORTHSTAR (Sep 16, 2010)

Will said:


> Looks like the Root 66 has a much better platform/base than the K50. The legs on the K50 suck. You ever use the K50 or did the Root 66 total take its place?


I still use my k50. Its a lot lighter and is easier under kitchen sinks or in tubs. But eventually the k50 will come of the truck.


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## NORTHSTAR (Sep 16, 2010)

gear junkie said:


> I like the ridgid spiral saw, 4-bladed cutter and reverse auger. C-cutter don't work in a k60. I finally kinked a cable (makes 2 in the 7 years I've used it).....guess I have a 10' reverse auger now, lol. the technique that works for me is using the biggest spiral blade first. Just let it spin while keeping tension down on the cable.....enough tension so it sounds labor but not so much tension that it seriously slows down. when the motor flips in reverse you might want to back off, lol.


Gear junkie. Is this the 4 blade cutter you speak of?


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

Maximumplumbing said:


> Well I'm on the fence now. I called general, they say the pro flex is 11 pounds and the regular is 8 pounds.


I have both and I'd say that ain't accurate


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

NORTHSTAR said:


> Gear junkie. Is this the 4 blade cutter you speak of?


Yep but what I do is order replacement blades from the K1500 selection. A little grinding is needed with a dremel but it works great.


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