# Locating Stub Outs?



## Plumbergeek (Aug 16, 2010)

I have been on numerous call's this past year where it was completely guess work as to where the copper stub out was and need to know what tricks yall might have to locate them.
I have a Rigid Scout and was wondering if getting the 5 watt Navitrack Brick would work. 
There is a neighborhood here that has copper stub out's that transition to Pex going to the water meter and they are breaking at the transition coupling and are so deep(4-5') that the foundation drains are catching all the water so the leak never show's up at the break. We unfortunately are lacking any Pro Leak Detection companies within our area.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Plumbergeek said:


> ...I have a Rigid Scout and was wondering if getting the 5 watt Navitrack would work...


Yes.


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## Plumbergeek (Aug 16, 2010)

plbgbiz said:


> Yes.


Great! can you loan me $800.00 :thumbup:


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

Using the navitrak and brick would be useful if you send a fish tape down every single loop. If you have no idea which is leaking, my suggestion might be a good leak detector and go round listening, would probably be faster and more informative. At least to find the leaking stub outs.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Running the fish tape through the pex from the meter may be a better option. However, the 5w Brick will be limited in its ability on something as thin as fish tape and without being able to close the circuit by tying on to the other end of the pipe with your ground clamp. Even the 10w transmitter will have limited results in that situation. If the house is all copper, it might be better to tie on to inside pipe. Separating lines from the manifolds may still be required to clean up the signal.

This is a long shot but sending the fish tape up the service till it hits a manifold puts it in contact with the copper in the house. Clamp on in the house and to the fish tape to close the circuit. If you get a good connection of the fish tape to the copper the results could be quite pleasing. This will involve longer runs and the 10w may still be a better choice.

Still another refinement would be if you're lucky enough to bang the fish tape in the wall at the first manifold enough to hear it. Then separate the line from the manifold and trace the pipe from the manifold location or close the circuit with the fish tape. This would be the most reliable but you have to be able to somehow locate the first manifold.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Plumbergeek said:


> Great! can you loan me $800.00 :thumbup:


I'm not very good with financing options...try here> I need a loan :laughing:


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## Plumbergeek (Aug 16, 2010)

Several years ago I purchased the Leak Detection Equipment from MyTana and it's total garbage! And it doesn't help that I have Tinnitus (ringing) in my left ear.
I do not want to go that route again because we have almost zero calls for under slab leak detection in my city. We do have lots of calls for broken stub outs on homes with basements where you have access to the main shutoff but due to the way they are plumbed, plus finished walls you can't always find where it penetrates the foundations. Also, a fish tape from the meter is not always doable because the majority of homes have 3/4" PVC piping from the meter all the way into the house where it transitions to CPVC. Now, using a pressurized & detectable gas such as helium would work I guess, I don't know if that would be something I would want to fool with though? And I am too old to be digging holes everywhere......


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

I will loan you the $ 800 bucks..

For this I require 51% ownership of your buisness


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

I have the Gen eye transmitter and locator, they work great. I can locate metalic water line, utilities, drain, sewer lines. I have used the brick at previous job and it works good too. To locate plactic lines use copper tracer wire, just push it through the pipe.


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## Plumbergeek (Aug 16, 2010)

> To locate plactic lines use copper tracer wire


Where do you get this?


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

"Tracer" is just copper wire used for electricity. Tracer wire for a gas line is typically 12ga or heavier. For your application, it depends on how far you need to push and/or the condition of the pipe as to the gauge of wire needed.

Fish tape will be easier to send up the pipe but it is not the best conductor of signal.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

Plumbergeek said:


> I have been on numerous call's this past year where it was completely guess work as to where the copper stub out was and need to know what tricks yall might have to locate them.
> I have a Rigid Scout and was wondering if getting the 5 watt Navitrack Brickwould work.
> There is a neighborhood here that has copper stub out's that transition to Pex going to the water meter and they are breaking at the transition coupling and are so deep(4-5') that the foundation drains are catching all the water so the leak never show's up at the break. We unfortunately are lacking any Pro Leak Detection companies within our area.


Trying to picture what you're describing. Sounds like the copper goes through the floor 4 to 5 ft then transitions to pex? All buried? Is it sleeved?


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Plumbergeek said:


> ...the majority of homes have 3/4" PVC piping from the meter all the way into the house where it transitions to CPVC...


In your original post you stated the stub outs were copper.



Plumbergeek said:


> ...There is a neighborhood here that has copper stub out's that transition to Pex going to the water meter...


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## Plumbergeek (Aug 16, 2010)

The majority are copper stub outs, they are usually between 1.5-5' deep (buried) and are never sleeved through foundation. Most are only about a foot long before transitioning to PVC/Pex. No copper service lines to meter because it's too expensive:whistling2:
I am looking for the easiest/cheapest way to locate the stub outs because that is where the majority of our breaks are. Sometimes there is no way to accurately locate them from inside the house due to finished walls. Another kink is the service lines are usually 3/4" PVC pipe with multiple 90's/45's fittings. They do some great plumbing around here!:furious:


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Plumbergeek said:


> ...I am looking for the easiest/cheapest way to locate the stub outs...


Based on the description you gave of the problem, I don't think it will easy or cheap. 

With copper in the house, PVC 90's in the yard, and a leak that doesn't surface, you really need to charge up the line with a transmitter. Not being able to complete the circuit will hamper your efforts though. Sound based leak locating through soil is often more difficult than listening through a concrete surface so even adding air for more noise will have limited benefit.


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