# Tub



## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

The job I went to instead of dealing with that tile mess up. I've been waiting a few weeks to get this one set now. Glad to be done. Testing it as I type. Will prob post some more pics of this house when I get home.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

...


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Mucho money! That ought to put a nice paycheck in your pocket! Awesome bathroom! Do you have help with the tub, does the owner help you?

My biggest fear is always installing a free standing tub like that as how the hell you put glue and set the tub and you can't see the pipe. Never have an access from underneath.

I just remembered they now sell an easy adapter for this situation.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Tango said:


> Mucho money! That ought to put a nice paycheck in your pocket! Do you have help with the tub, does the owner help you?
> 
> My biggest fear is always installing a free standing tub like that as how the hell you put glue and set the tub and you can't see the pipe. Never have an access from underneath.



No help for the most part. An electrician helped me get this tub into the bathroom, all me after that. This tub has an access panel in the back, so I did the drain and left the overflow off so it was easier for me to get the tub into place, then i did the overflow through the panel, also checked for leaks from the access.

On the ones that don't have a panel, which is most, i just take my time and triple measure stuff. I make reference marks for future use for lining stuff up. I have a few tub posts that show my odd way of doing things too, like how I'll use stringlines to set up things.

As far as glue joints holding, gotta trust you did the job correct. I think most will know when they have a suspect glue joint for various reasons. If no issues while gluing up pvc then shouldn't have leaks. Just don't caulk down the tub until after you test, it will show from under the tub if there is a leak.

Doing 99% of what I do solo, i have to come up with creative ways to do things. I'm not the fastest the way I do things, but I rarely have issues caused by myself, and like to think I'm one of the best at quality of work.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

I left my shop vac at the first job this morning. Not wanting a bunch of water everywhere since the drop ear elbows are about 2 1/2" below surface. Had to McGyver something to finish draining these without making a mess. I was able to unscrew the cap and minimize leakage by pressing down on the cap as i removed it, quickly put my contraption on. Always a surprising amount of water comes out even after draining everything else down.

Pic of unfinished tub is to show my 3 reference marks.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

I will also draw the tub on the floor if needs be. A few pics in this old post show it along with my stringlines.

http://www.plumbingzone.com/f21/moen-tub-filler-fun-63946/


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Nice! Talking about leaks, 5 years ago I did all the bath faucets and custom pipework for the showers, 24 stories 10 condos each floor. Not a single leak! I must of gotten lucky in the mix.

The hard part they were brand new faucet from the manufacture and I was the first one to install them, the company never installed a couple to test them out. I had to get creative as I had to make myself a special tool so I could screw in a nipple inside the tile wall by a 1/2 so I could then screw in the spout flush to the tile. Most of the time a close nipple was too long so I had to shorten 2 male adapters or male and female for the shower and solder them together to make a tiny nipple. Without my tool that I invented It would of been impossible.

The sad part the company didn't give a f-ck and no appreciation. I was the shop steward for 21 plumbers on that job and the arrogant young buck was a biitch... I've been in the trade so long that when that foreman with a big fat grin told me I had my lay off I took his smirk off right away when I replied that I expected it and all my tools and my home made cart(he provided one to each crew but not to me) were already loaded in my truck 4 hours ago and I was waiting for him to tell me to go! 

I won! :vs_karate: :vs_karate: :vs_laugh:


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Here this might come in handy next time :

Freestanding Bathtub Rough-In Adapter 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Freesta...ass-Tail-Pipe-and-ABS-Plastic-ITD35/206503209


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Tango said:


> Here this might come in handy next time :
> 
> Freestanding Bathtub Rough-In Adapter
> 
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Freesta...ass-Tail-Pipe-and-ABS-Plastic-ITD35/206503209


I've already had the displeasure of trying one of those. Despite what the site says, they are for specific type tubs and they actually are not easier to use. IMO, it is one of those things that is a solution to no problem.


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## breplum (Mar 21, 2009)

Does that adapter utilize a push-in donut rubber for the tailpiece?
I had never seen that product, so thanks for sharing.


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

Well at least it is CSA certified, so should pass in most areas. Decent idea.


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## Alan (Jun 18, 2008)

chonkie said:


> Doing 99% of what I do solo, i have to come up with creative ways to do things. I'm not the fastest the way I do things, but I rarely have issues caused by myself, and like to think I'm one of the best at quality of work.


Thats the way I like to do them too. Slow and deliberate in order to have a trouble free install.

One time I set a tub with my boss and I did all the measuring. Easiest drain hookup above the floor ever.

He's usually in such a rush just get that thing close and then bend and tweak it after the tub is in to make it hook up.

One time he measured the tub drain elevation a half inch too short, then went digging through the shop to add extra rubber gaskets to make up the goof up.

Nice looking work, chonkie


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Finished up the tub with the messed up tile. Gerberit cable drain is the only one that I've been able to get clearance to mount the faucet on center. Luckily i didn't have to cut the skirt on this one to clear the valve bodies. You can see my tape with the centerline of the wall on it, I almost forgot to remove the piece of tape going to the floor before setting the tub. Tile guy still did not follow the line that I drew on the floor of what he needed to cut, should have had approx 1/2" of tile under the skirt past that little lip on the bottom based on my measurements.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

I guess you won't have access to the faucet if the handles loosen underneath?

Must be a real challenge to hook things up with no room behind. I tell my customers the issue of putting a free standing tub close to the wall is that you won't be able to clean behind it. Tumble dust weed will accumulate.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

I really tighten things down, unlike many people that don't in fear of breaking stuff. I have never had anything come loose and never broken anything. That's one of my big peeves and I see it all the time.

Most 2 piece tubs actually wouldn't be that terribly difficult to fix that if it ever happened. Depends on who installed it. This one you could undo the drain & overflow, pick up the tub enough to prop it up with 2x4 and retighten the nuts, then set it back down and reinstall the drain & overflow. Also the brand of faucet makes a difference with regards to that. Example, Delta roman tub faucets you tighten two slotted screws from up top to tighten them down so no need for underside access.

Two piece skirted tubs are a different animal on hook up. This one was easier with 3 people, two holding the tub up enough for me to crimp the pex on the supplies. I've done them by myself using 2x4s to prop up the tub but that is a pain. Had a painter and the GC's helper helping me this time.

Already had the valves hooked up to the spout and also the handheld hose hooked up. They held it up in the skirt, i have to loop pex around the sides in the skirt and around the feet, under the tub body, then up so there is enough to pull the tub if needed. The final two crimps, they lower the tub as i guide the overflow and also make sure the pex going under the tub doesn't get in the way of the drain shoe.

Most of the time, i make sure to put the tub far enough away to get something behind it. This tub is 2 3/4" from the wall. If I rotate my arm when my elbow reaches the tub lip, I can actually fit my arm back there and touch the floor. Most of our HO's have cleaning ladies.


Ps. I lost my train of thought a few times so one of the paragraphs may be out of place.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Here is an old post with pics showing how I had to loop the pex. I did that tub completely solo using 2x4's as helpers. Better quality tub than the kohler one in this thread.

http://www.plumbingzone.com/f21/2-piece-tub-48473/


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Anyone do a clawfoot tub. The last one I did there was nothing to hold the tub in place. All that was holding it was the chrome drain. I was wondering how to anchor the feet to the floor.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Many of them. Most only rely on the weight and silicone on the feet when you set it. Some lighter acrylic ones just rely on silicone on the feet. I've done a few acrylic tubs where there was a stud you screwed into the floor and the feet had a hole that slid over the stud. I can't remember that brand. There's actually a pic of one of those exact type in the picture section in my profile. Posted those there before i realized where to post pics for all to easily see.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Make it easy for ya, here's that tub with the studs in the floor. I think it was Signature Hardware tub. If I remember correctly, the drain/overflow was Victoria Albert, so it could be their tub. I just haven't looked up VA stuff so don't know what all they make.

http://www.plumbingzone.com/picture.php?albumid=686&pictureid=3447


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Just did a little looking around on V&A site. It is their tub. Here is a pic of the feet we used.


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## Snowyman800 (Jan 7, 2016)

chonkie said:


> Delta roman tub faucets you tighten two slotted screws from up top to tighten them down so no need for underside access.


Any tips on the Delta roman tub faucets, as far as getting the actual spout to tighten down and stay lined up. The first time I set one of those stupid roman tub faucets I had to go buy a small slotted screwdriver because all of mine were too big and couldn't get down in there to tighten the stupid screws. The rough-in valves are fairly easy to set, with the proper screwdriver anyways. Except for the cheesy copper flex lines that are supposed to make it easier to hook up. I like to space the handles and spout as far as I can to help with that, but you don't always have that kind of space when it's mounted to the deck of the tub and it's some goofy looking oval-shaped tub with barely enough clearance to make it past the overflow. The homeowners only ever want it mounted to the deck of the tub when it's one of those 2-piece tub/skirt things like you were talking about and it makes everything pretty tight. But the tub spout trim itself, it's just one tiny set screw. I crank them down but I can't ever get them to not move. They'll be solid and you can bump it, no big deal. But the homeowner has like 10" off leverage on a little set screw, so you can still move the spout if you try. Drives me insane. Oh, and the ridiculously tiny set screw for lift-rod diverter. I don't know who's idea that was. 

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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

I never have that issue with the spout. But I've also never tried really hard to move the spout once installed. Are you using the little screws they provide you that go in the bottom brass plate to keep the valve/spout rough-in bodies from spinning? That will help that movement. Also really tighten down those two screws from up top that are used to set the bodies. Like I tighten mine up enough to start bending the screws. 

When installing the spout trim, i keep pressing down on the spout with all my weight as I'm tightening the setscrew. Again, i really tighten that setscrew, even applying a wrench to the allen wrench to get a little more turn. When in doubt, apply some clear silicone to the base of the spout when installing, that will really help that setscrew keep it from moving once dry.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Oh, and when you say small screwdriver, how small? I have a regular sized one I use, has a custom skinny shank and custom (by me) sized tip for these valves. Allows me to really crank down on those screws.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Most important tip for mounting on fiberglass or acrylic tub deck is to reinforce the deck with 1x4. That way there is more than a 1/8" thick material supporting the valves and spout and it also allows you to use the screws for the bottom brass plate.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

I've never seen a roman tub spout using a flat head screw for the trim. They are always allen screws. On some models there is a flat head screw on the bottom of the spout. You have to drill the tub so that screw dips into that hole. This prevents the spout from spinning or wobbling.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

The trim doesn't use slotted screws, just the rough-in bodies.

I've set some that have a roll pin you need to set in the deck to help keep the spout from spinning.


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## Snowyman800 (Jan 7, 2016)

chonkie said:


> Oh, and when you say small screwdriver, how small? I have a regular sized one I use, has a custom skinny shank and custom (by me) sized tip for these valves. Allows me to really crank down on those screws.


I've never had any problems getting the valve bodies themselves to stay solid. The screwdriver is a Klein 6. I guess that's 6MM. It's pretty thin and like 3/16" wide. Works great for mounting those valve bodies. I've never considered putting a 1x4 under the deck, but then I guess I could use the screws from underneath too. 

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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

With our without the pin, I set them in a bed of silicone, once cured they may bounce but usually can't be relocated. Typical with poorly designed spouts.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

So I installed a Delta tub faucet the other day and tried to move it once the set screw was tight. It didn't really want to spin. It also did not wobble left and right, but it did wobble a bunch back and forth. I think it's because nothing is holding it to the rough-in body up front so it tries to lift up. Added silicone so that should stop that. Will find out for sure in a few days how much it truly helps. I kind of expect it to still bounce a bit like Gan said.


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## Raleigh Plumbin (May 1, 2009)

We use floor mounted island drain adapters on 90% of the freestanding tubs we install. We install about 5 a week and the drain adapter by OS&B is awesome. They work best with center drain tubs with no overflow or integral overflow. The drain and water locations are plotted out and installed at rough in. No more access from below required and we've never had one failure yet.


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