# Sexauer Faucet Rebuilding Kit



## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

I recently made a thread about tapping old style faucets for replaceable seats and was met with some confusion as to why I would bother. I understand that every area of the country is different and we are all ignorant to each others own ways of doing plumbing. It has become apparent to me that not all of you run into old fixtures regularly so I figured I would take a moment and show you the tools I use to fix old faucets, shower valves, anything with a seat and a washer.


This kit has darn near everything and if you think you need something it doesn't have you are probably wrong. In addition to this kit I have a couple more tins of washers and seats. This kit weighs a BRICK. The plus side is that I only make one trip and aren't searching my van for small parts, even if my wrist falls apart lolz.


This kit and several of the tins are from the 60's and 70's. Made by J.A. Sexauer Mfg. in white plains, NY. They also had a location in Louisville, KY. Sexauer makes the best plumbing service tools hands down. It seems to me that they may have been run by a methodical old machinist who made ultra-realistic n-scale train setups in his free time and had specific custom made tools for everything. Then one day he hired a plumber to fix his faucet and that plumber might as well have been writing calligraphy with a ballpoint pen because the proper plumbing tools hadn't been invented yet. Seeing this fellow struggle Mr. Sexauer knew he had to right this wrong and got to work at his mill devising all sorts of fine instruments.


The brown box is my faucet re-seating tool. I was lucky enough to get this set because it also has the four larger cutters and extension not found in most sets as it was an option. I actually have several complete sets(no larger cutters) which are newer but I like the bare brass and brown paint.


The leather roll holds a set of removable seat wrenches. Below it is my small tap set. I made both of those leather tool rolls. The large square tapered seat wrench on the right is custom made from 1/2" bar stock. I needed to make to remove some exceptionally large seats from a speakman three handle shower valve. The black wrench to its right has two spiral extractor ends for removing chewed out seats. It is a much finer spiral thread than standard spiral extractors. That blue plate is for checking the threads on removable seats and shows their correlating part number. Almost every seat has a different, special, extra fine thread and you won't find a tap for them in any tap set other than one made just for these.







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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Here you can see my small tap and die set, home made tap wrench, screw thread test plate, two handle pullers,and a toilet seat nut wrench which can come in handy for those really hidden nuts. 



The larger puller has a slide hammer handle which is indispensable. I added a piece of 1/8" drill rod in the end, I got the idea from my other handle puller. Sometimes the handle screw hole is shallow and the drill rod pushes in the center of the stem allowing the fingers to pull on the handle sides. Without that rod the blunt nose would always sit on the top of the handle and would provide no pulling action on its own. 



The smaller puller includes that round adapter for pulling 5/8" od compression fittings and the old ferrules from copper pipe. I have used it once for that and was very glad I had it. I was able to solder a regular stop on after. Otherwise I would have had to open the wall a bit to get fresh pipe.


The removable seat kit is one of several I have. It has the most commonly needed seats, a set of wrenches, and a thread gauge with 20 different seat sizes as well as 4 different bibb screw threads. You can see on the inside of the lid just some of the different thread pitches, hopefully you can appreciate the special taps that would be required.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

That seat ID card is cool and can be real handy. That text about a hotline is bs, there ain't even a 4 digit phone number on the back!!


The screw tin did have all sorts of stainless screws, most of them were oddball and I don't need wood screws in my faucet kit. I keep the few monel/ss seats I have in that box.



The o-ring kit has saved me several times, mostly on old rando cheap faucets with swivel goose necks.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

That washer kit is mostly the three most common sizes and a bunch of beveled washers. The beveled washers are necessary when you use the re-seating tool to grind a new face when you can't replace the seat. The beveled washers are also good when the seat is too short. Ideally I will get some seat taps and after using the seat grinder to make a smooth face and ream the hole I can then tap threads to use a removable seat. I have a couple other boxes of washers I don't keep in the kit here so they are easier to get to.

Those monel washer retainers are also indispensable. Many times the edge on the stem where the washer is held gets chipped, corroded, or is gone completely. The retainers replace those. I have also used them to take up the gap on odd size stem faces where standard washers don't fit snugly. 

The monel screws are sweet. The heads don't strip out because they are much harder than brass and the pre applied threadlocker is top notch. The small easy taps are 10-24 so you can re-tap worn out smaller screw holes, usually that means an 8-24. They cut like really well. The #6 size screws I have actually never used on washers. I have used a couple on weird stuff like this one handle that needed a really small screw or as a set screw.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

i like the name regardless of what it does.. :vs_laugh::vs_laugh::vs_laugh:


i can see your point, but in my area there arent enough old faucets that people want to keep and the cost of repair and running to try and find parts makes no sense when installing new is usually the option..


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## PLUMB TIME (Feb 2, 2009)

The Creed rep used to come by the shop and re-stock our seat boxes and washers. Early eighties.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Great kit to have. I also have some Sexauer tins, but not the big jobber box that you have.


I have actually used a mini hacksaw blade to cut out slivers in a stubborn seat. My manager at the time wanted the tub valve repaired over my suggestion of replace the valve.


I also have the seat-thread plate. Great tool to have to verify the threads on a seat.


We should always have more than {1} way of doing something. Your kits give you the option of repairing tub and shower valves. Or, you could always cut open a wall and replace. Two ways of accomplishing the job.


I noticed that you didn't post a picture of a cap thread gasket kit. I also have one of those. You must have that kit if you have all those other kits.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Cap thread gasket kit and a small seat kit.


I agree with you that a service man should be able to repair fixtures and such. I enjoy taking things apart, learning how it ticks and then putting said item back together.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Tommy plumber said:


> Cap thread gasket kit and a small seat kit.
> 
> 
> I agree with you that a service man should be able to repair fixtures and such. I enjoy taking things apart, learning how it ticks and then putting said item back together.





I rarely seem to need cap seals. I have a box of them somewhere but it isn't well stocked. The few occasions I have needed them I almost never have the correct size so I will use teflon tape or an o-ring. Also, many of the faucets around here are new enough in design that the stems use o-rings or the caps use o-rings. 


I search ebay all the time and will see all sorts of repair kits for brands that just aren't prevalent around here. I don't think I have ever seen a crane dial-ease in person but there are tons of parts kits for sale. It's mostly central brass, as, kohler, eljer, and speakman.


I do have a pretty new box of formed teflon bonnet packings but almost never need those either. Usually just cleaning the stem with some sanding cloth and some pipe dope and the packing seals well again. Luckily our water does more depositing than corroding so a good cleaning goes a long way. The brass parts will get a "protective coating" before they are eaten away chemically. That's why there are lots of old fixtures around here that people would rather fix. The chrome stays good and the faucet bodies remain serviceable. 


That's why I want some seat taps. Most of the damage I see is from the seats having been replaced by someone who tightened them too much or cross-threaded them. If I could re-tap them to the next size up I could just pop in some new seats.


I emailed o'malleys manufacturing, they still offer the 4 tap repair kit for 63$ plus shipping although it isn't listed on their site. It includes 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, and 3/4 taps all with 27tpi thread pitch. It also includes matching removable seats. The 1/2-27 might be desirable because eljer seats are 1/2-27 and are a good size to replace a couple more common smaller seats like some a/s ones.




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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Scored this on ebay last night!! ebay.com/itm/254153683566



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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

skoronesa said:


> Scored this on ebay last night!! ebay.com/itm/254153683566
> 
> 
> 
> .


 i have a bunch of flat seat grinders and some shapers, ill stick them in my cordless drill to smooth out seats in old faucets just to get people by till they can replace them, i tell them its a temp fix..i dont do alot of jobbing( who remembers that old term???)


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> i have a bunch of flat seat grinders and some shapers, ill stick them in my cordless drill to smooth out seats in old faucets just to get people by till they can replace them, i tell them its a temp fix..i dont do alot of jobbing( who remembers that old term???)


I bought that lot for the omalley kit. Only one of the five in there is a flat seat grinder which I have several of and don't really use. The other four are "seat taps". So when the threads for a removable seat wear out I can tap new threads and use a new seat.

The other stuff is just a sweet score.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

skoronesa said:


> Scored this on ebay last night!! ebay.com/itm/254153683566
> 
> 
> 
> .


















No pictures are showing. Maybe my computer?


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Tommy plumber said:


> No pictures are showing. Maybe my computer?


You have to paste the link into your browser or click here :

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OMalley-No-7-Faucet-Nu-Seater-Kit-USED-/183720217135?oid=254153683566


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

This is the one that I have on my truck. I use it once in a while.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Tommy plumber said:


> This is the one that I have on my truck. I use it once in a while.



I would have posted pics but I was on mobile. The o-ring kit is a good score, it is two stacked trays almost full. The thread pitch tool will be nice, probably more accurate than my plastic card version. I replaced the seats on a couple old faucets last week and one today. 


Tommys words have gotten to me, I now need to put a cap seal kit on my van or I will get a call next week needing several. Murphys law. I will have to go through all the boxes on the shelves at work.




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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

skoronesa said:


> I bought that lot for the omalley kit. Only one of the five in there is a flat seat grinder which I have several of and don't really use. The other four are "seat taps". So when the threads for a removable seat wear out I can tap new threads and use a new seat.
> 
> The other stuff is just a sweet score.
> 
> ...






















I love the old metal boxes. And yeah, you'll need a cap thread gasket one day and you'll be saying "Thanks Tommy plumber!"...…..:biggrin:

Every once in a while, either new stems don't come with a cap thread gasket or else I'll need one on a stem that I'm changing the bibb washer for. Some of them split while removing the old stems. It's a rarity for sure, but every once in a while you need one. {or use the t-tape trick which is a bit hackish}


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Tommy plumber said:


> I love the old metal boxes. And yeah, you'll need a cap thread gasket one day and you'll be saying "Thanks Tommy plumber!"...…..:biggrin:
> 
> Every once in a while, either new stems don't come with a cap thread gasket or else I'll need one on a stem that I'm changing the bibb washer for. Some of them split while removing the old stems. It's a rarity for sure, but every once in a while you need one. *{or use the t-tape trick which is a bit hackish}*


I'd like to know what that is, I'm curious.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Tango said:


> I'd like to know what that is, I'm curious.





He just means using teflon tape to make a seal on the bonnet threads. Like wrapping a hard supply line ferrule with tape.


Attached is a picture of a globe valve. You can see the bonnet nut in green. What is not shown is the seal that goes under that lip where it meets the body. Old faucets have similar setups. Many don't have bonnet nuts/bonnet seals and this is how I have managed. Generally bonnet nuts present a likely leak location so most of the faucets left here are of a different design which doesn't include them.






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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Tango said:


> I'd like to know what that is, I'm curious.


its not some famous trick, its just gets you out of a jam, some cheap valves even new need some teflon tape to seal because the mating edges for the gasket are uneven and seep water...in a bind i have used teflon tape to pack a bonnet to stop it from pissing water..till valve can be replaced..


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> its not some famous trick, its just gets you out of a jam, some cheap valves even new need some teflon tape to seal because the mating edges for the gasket are uneven and seep water...in a bind i have used teflon tape to pack a bonnet to stop it from pissing water..till valve can be replaced..


I’ve had a gate valve pissing out the packing nut and no matter how much I tightened it there was no stopping the leak. I unscrewed the nut, wrapped the stem in Teflon tape, and tightened the nut back down. Leak stopped and replaced it with a ball valve a couple days later


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

I had posted a reply and I guess I didn't submit it. I've used the teflon trick a few times. One of my mechanic told me he regularly used a mop strand embedded with pipe dope.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Tango said:


> I had posted a reply and I guess I didn't submit it. I've used the teflon trick a few times. One of my mechanic told me he regularly used a mop strand embedded with pipe dope.


they sell packing material on a roll, i have one on the truck, but walking out to the truck is more time than the roll of teflon tape with you in your tool bucket ...plus if its a temp repair speed is of the essence....


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

In australia they use teflon string for pipe threads, it's like thick teflon floss. I have a tube of that. I also have a roll of cotton wicking and a roll of some special stuff you can't buy anymore if I really need it.


Lolz, like schit says, Most of the time I am too lazy and just use regular thick teflon tape, I dope it up and twist it into a long string. Works real good but wear gloves 




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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Speaking of tip/tricks to make repairs, have any of you guys repaired a nick in a seat? And if so, how? 


I've used a flat file to shave the seat a tiny bit, rotating it after every few strokes,


or the seat re-finishing tool,


or for the really brave, solder the seat.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Tommy plumber said:


> Speaking of tip/tricks to make repairs, have any of you guys repaired a nick in a seat? And if so, how?
> 
> 
> I've used a flat file to shave the seat a tiny bit, rotating it after every few strokes,
> ...


I have 2 sets of tools for those those occasions. Then again I only have to deal with only 2 types of seats, emco and waltec. That's it!


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Tommy plumber said:


> Speaking of tip/tricks to make repairs, have any of you guys repaired a nick in a seat? And if so, how?
> 
> 
> I've used a flat file to shave the seat a tiny bit, rotating it after every few strokes,
> ...





As you said there is the standard flat grinder or the much nicer version with contoured bits for making a proper round seat face. I have 4 full sets of the sexauer version, one of which has the 4 optional largest cutters and extension. You should use a beveled washer after you resurface a seat this way if you take off anything significant. 

But if you just want to fix a nick then I use sanding cloth, similar to how you use the file. I take a mostly worn out piece and hold it with my left hand and use multi-circular motions to smooth the seat face. I rotate it a fifth or so of a turn every once in a while to make it even. Then I use the cloth to take the sharp edges off of the inside and outside so the washer doesn't get cut.

Filling in a nick with solder isn't too bad if the solder will take. You just end up with a lot more work to smooth it out if you have a big solder booger. You can use some stranded copper wire as solder wick to remove a little at a time.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Obviously the file/sanding cloth and the solder is only an option on removable seats.




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## CaptainBob (Jan 3, 2011)

I have had good luck using seat grinding tools as well as a file to resurface an old seat. However, never tried the solder trick. My luck it wouldn't take or not smooth out and I would spend more time messing around with it than it's worth.


Somewhere I have one of those old Sexauer tools that's pictured, now I have to go find it.


I also carry a couple of seat kits, I usually have a replacement if needed. I still carry those in the truck even though I only may need a seat couple times a year. Here in the Minneapolis St.Paul twin city area there are still many old faucets in use and for many various reasons can't always change out the faucet.


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

*From ther past*

I posted this photo back in July 2011

Fits in with this post on grinding seats. But the seats are bigger eg: globe valves, and what not. Repair was the only way to go.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

skoronesa said:


> As you said there is the standard flat grinder or the much nicer version with contoured bits for making a proper round seat face. I have 4 full sets of the sexauer version, one of which has the 4 optional largest cutters and extension. You should use a beveled washer after you resurface a seat this way if you take off anything significant.
> 
> But if you just want to fix a nick then I use sanding cloth, similar to how you use the file. I take a mostly worn out piece and hold it with my left hand and use multi-circular motions to smooth the seat face. I rotate it a fifth or so of a turn every once in a while to make it even. Then I use the cloth to take the sharp edges off of the inside and outside so the washer doesn't get cut.
> 
> Filling in a nick with solder isn't too bad if the solder will take. You just end up with a lot more work to smooth it out if you have a big solder booger. You can use some stranded copper wire as solder wick to remove a little at a time.










You sound like you are around my age. I'm 51. The younger guys either aren't being taught to repair items, or they just prefer to replace. 

Of course some old pcs. of crap kitchen faucet is getting replaced. Some thing that has to be cut out of the kitchen sink {cuz the steel retainer nut under the chrome escutcheon plate is rusted to all hell} isn't worth anyone's time to re-build. That I replace. But old antique and vintage plumbing fixtures and faucets are well worth the effort to repair.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Tommy plumber said:


> You sound like you are around my age. I'm 51. The younger guys either aren't being taught to repair items, or they just prefer to replace.
> 
> Of course some old pcs. of crap kitchen faucet is getting replaced. Some thing that has to be cut out of the kitchen sink {cuz the steel retainer nut under the chrome escutcheon plate is rusted to all hell} isn't worth anyone's time to re-build. That I replace. But old antique and vintage plumbing fixtures and faucets are well worth the effort to repair.



yes and no.....depends on what the cost is for finding and running for parts if you dont stock them..if you spend more labor doing that then just replacing does the customer want to go that route, it depends on what the customer wants and if it makes sense financially..
each job should be looked at for final costs, also the old shower bodies are not pressure balanced, now you work on it and someone gets a nasty burn from hot water can put you into some liability even though you didnt install the shower body...with todays crazy lawsuits and the amount of time stupid people get paid for being stupid that also has a factor in what you repair or bring up to code, again the decision is with each individual job..


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## Venomthirst (Jun 20, 2018)

We repair it if its more hassle to replace like sometimes you have to repair because it's kind of built into bathroom and new just won't look right.. We dont really get into too much ancient stuff where we can't find parts but have had make things work.. like I've seen some things where there is leather involved before the days of rubber so it's out there.. like above said if financially it makes sense to spend 2 to 5 Bill's on a faucet then I think they rather go with that most of the time.. we only have small old fashion ritsy district... most of the older homes were factory workers houses at the time and have been maintained by themselves over the years and its lower end stuff you'd just toss... Alot of Waltec.. Delta.. Belanger.. Moen.. some other brands I can't remember right now.. I've seen wall hung hardwood toilet tanks with pull chains there are still quite a few of those with like 30 gallon flush. Rear spud or whatever. 

But most stuff had been replaced in last 50 years so the replacement parts are there dont usually need to reface seats and change washers when a brand new cartridge and seat are like 10-15 bucks at most...unless of course you get an oldie with built in seats.

Oh Emco is a big one that's around alot like i dont know if some of these are Canada only things but I see tons of mostly waltec, delta, moen and emco, belanger, and jamco


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Venomthirst said:


> Oh Emco is a big one that's around alot like i dont know if some of these are Canada only things but I see tons of mostly waltec, delta, moen and emco, belanger, and jamco


It's mostly a Canadian thing. Belanger and Riobel are from Quebec. 
Waltec was a Canadian brand and was bought by Delta. I never saw Jameco(not Jamco) other than stems at Rona.

Them Southerners sure like Symmons! Well at leas Steve L. does.


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## Venomthirst (Jun 20, 2018)

Thanks for correcting jameco.. yes we have different stuff up here.. if I see.symmons mixing valve cut it out put a watts in Crane fixtures are Canadian too.. even our pipe used to be made here.. wolverine and Bibby..


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Venomthirst said:


> Thanks for correcting jameco.. yes we have different stuff up here.. if I see.symmons mixing valve cut it out put a watts in Crane fixtures are Canadian too.. even our pipe used to be made here.. wolverine and Bibby..


Crane was bought by American Standard.


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## Venomthirst (Jun 20, 2018)

Tango said:


> Venomthirst said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for correcting jameco.. yes we have different stuff up here.. if I see.symmons mixing valve cut it out put a watts in Crane fixtures are Canadian too.. even our pipe used to be made here.. wolverine and Bibby..
> ...


Yes, I used are instead of were lol.. crane toilets were pretty good had a nice flush.. derailing here


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

PLUMBER_BILL said:


> I posted this photo back in July 2011
> 
> Fits in with this post on grinding seats. But the seats are bigger eg: globe valves, and what not. Repair was the only way to go.







Aww geez bill!!! Why do you have to post pictures like that?!:vs_mad:




Now there's another antique tool I have to spend lots of money on to rarely use.....lolz :biggrin:




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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Tommy plumber said:


> ....Of course some old pcs. of crap kitchen faucet is getting replaced. ...That I replace. But old antique and vintage plumbing fixtures and faucets are well worth the effort to repair.





ShtRnsdownhill said:


> yes and no.....depends on what the cost is for finding and running for parts if you dont stock them..if you spend more labor doing that then just replacing does the customer want to go that route, it depends on what the customer wants and if it makes sense financially......




Today I had a slop sink with a CB faucet, pretty common. I suggested it wasn't worth touching but the handles were hard to turn and the customer has bad arthritis. They asked me to try to fix it instead of leaving it to replace later. When I took the handles off they each lost a small chip out of the female stem hole, luckily neither chip was in the splined are. Both packing nuts had a lot of build up but they cleaned up well and didn't leak. It turned out to be old enough to be pretty quality, only part that wasn't solid brass were the zinc handles which of course I forgot to put on my WB order I sent in when I got back to the shop. 



I want to stock some of those handles as CB faucets, especially on slop sinks, are really common around here. If a slop sink here doesn't have a real CB faucet it's a compatible knock off. WB has a CB kit but it doesn't seem worth it, I just ordered some seats and 4 stems for less than 20$. They wanted like 60$+ for a kit that has really cheap stuff like washers and screws.



Unfortunately I used my last ce-1 seats this month, in brass that is. I put in two 4$ ss/monel seats instead of two 0.40$ seats. I was so pissed at my self. Both seats were corroded so I guess her water may be acidic. At least it was a good faucet.




Venomthirst said:


> We repair it if its more hassle to replace like sometimes you have to repair because it's kind of built into bathroom and new just won't look right.. We dont really get into too much ancient stuff where we can't find parts but have had make things work.. like I've seen some things where there is leather involved before the days of rubber so it's out there......




Customers really appreciate you fixing a shower valve in a costly to open wall when the last couple companies said they don't fix old stuff like that. One lady was so peeved with the last couple guys because her father had serviced this 3 handle kohler multiple times when she was growing up and he wasn't even that handy.




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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Tommy plumber said:


> Cap thread gasket kit and a small seat kit.
> 
> 
> I agree with you that a service man should be able to repair fixtures and such. I enjoy taking things apart, learning how it ticks and then putting said item back together.



I finally had time to check all the boxes we have and as luck would have it there was a brand new, unopened, MODERN, cap thread gasket kit. It includes among others CB, K, and AS gaskets that will fit the very common stems around here. It looks similar to yours. Thanks for pushing me to get one, I am sure it will come in handy.


I received those taps saturday and they look pretty good. Someone slightly(properly) ground the front cutting edges on two of them so I would assume they have been successfully. I will try to test them out soon and post the results.




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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

bawalter said:


> ...............there seems to be less repair and more of replacing the valve. What tools would help the repair plumber? ............


Depends on what you consider as the "valve". For a two handle ceramic, yeah, you're just going to replace the cartridge/ceramic stem. I've seen replacement ceramic disks with bottom washer and I think that's ridiculous because the ultra low lead brass they use nowadays corrodes so easily they aren't worth rebuilding.

There are plenty of specialty tools made for specific circumstances. The only tool I would currently like to see made is one that used to be made, the sexauer slide hammer handle removal tool. I added an 1/8" drill rod to the tip of one to aid in pulling handles off by simply screwing the center in.

As for how you could really help us service plumbers, get involved with "*Tapmedic*". Help make their stuff more available here in the states. All modern two handle ceramic faucets and many ceramic diverters use pretty much the same cartridges just with different spline counts and bonnet threads.



https://www.tapmedic.co.uk/store/


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Tommy plumber said:


> I love the old metal boxes. And yeah, you'll need a cap thread gasket one day and you'll be saying "Thanks Tommy plumber!"...…..:biggrin:
> ..............



Thanks @Tommy plumber !!!

I've used my cap thread gasket kit quite a lot in the past year, looks almost identical to yours. Used a couple yesterday on a CB faucet. Had a house a couple months ago, close to a dozen two handle Chicago faucets, replaced the rubber washers in all of them, rebuilt the stems in half of them, of course most of them had the cork cap gasket stick and tear. Very glad I had that cap thread gasket kit because only half of the CF stem rebuild kits I ordered were the correct ones, many didn't include the cork gaskets.

I say it all the time, 99% of our issues are communication. This is the main reason i stock so much on my van, because if I had normal levels I would be screwed when I order restock and they send me the wrong schit.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Some smartazz(You know who you are!  ) made the remark yesterday that this faucet reseating tool was something* "you use every decade or two".* 











Used it twice this week so far. Yesterday was an old Crane clawfoot tub faucet, likely pre-war. Took a lot of turning to clean up the cold side. I use that tool ~once a month. This particular tool is from the 30's. I have several of them, this being the only one in rough brass, it's my favorite.


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## DDDave (Aug 6, 2014)

skoronesa said:


> Some smartazz(You know who you are!  ) made the remark yesterday that this faucet reseating tool was something* "you use every decade or two".*
> 
> View attachment 132146
> 
> ...


Wow, think about it- what's the cost of that tool back then, probably not cheap. Because why? Discuss.
Love it.


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