# Extra Heavy Cast Iron Demolition.



## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

Besides Snappers, whats your best method for busting out OLD extra heavy Cast?


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

Flyout95 said:


> Besides Snappers, whats your best method for busting out OLD extra heavy Cast?



Quick saw.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

If you are not saving it, a 3 LB hammer just a couple good hits at the bell.


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## CTs2p2 (Dec 6, 2011)

4" grinder with diamond cutting wheel..

Don't forget eye protection and dust mask!!


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Key word I read is "DEMOLITION".

Maybe one clean cut where I need to make a reconnection but after that it's hammer time. Choose whatever sledge the room will allow. Unless of course I was working by the hour, then I would break out the grinder.

Even though it is slower, depending on the circumstances a carbide or diamond blade on a recip saw would be better than the grinder. For instance, in a muddy hole you can keep the recip saw above water and still cut all the way through 4" CI.


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## deerslayer (Mar 29, 2012)

BFH unless I am trying to save a fitting! I usually hit it at the bell and save the lead to make some boolits!


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

If you are needing a clean cut, I would shy away from the snap cutters. If the CI has deteriorated, it may crumble rather than cut.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

BFH. Unless ur cutting a fitting in then the quicky saw if that won't fit use a grinder and last but not least sawz all. Lenox makes a ci cutting blade that works well. If u use regular blades then run them slow and they won't burn up as fast


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

plbgbiz said:


> If you are needing a clean cut, I would shy away from the snap cutters. If the CI has deteriorated, it may crumble rather than cut.


The biggest problem with getting a clean cut on older cast iron is that a lot of folks don't realize you need to use the proper snap cutter for the application and you need to score the pipe by rotating the snap cutter.

I don't know how many times I've seen guys try to snap extra-heavy cast iron with a Single Stroke Snap Cutter.












The best cutter by far for cutting extra-heavy, especially overhead is a Ratcheting Snap Cutter.










And if you're working in a ditch or at the base of a stack, a soil cutter is the best option.


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## Plumb Bob (Mar 9, 2011)

deerslayer said:


> BFH unless I am trying to save a fitting! I usually hit it at the bell and save the lead to make some boolits!


Or some sinkers!


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## deerslayer (Mar 29, 2012)

Widdershins said:


> The biggest problem with getting a clean cut on older cast iron is that a lot of folks don't realize you need to use the proper snap cutter for the application and you need to score the pipe by rotating the snap cutter.
> 
> I don't know how many times I've seen guys try to snap extra-heavy cast iron with a Single Stroke Snap Cutter.
> 
> ...


 
I agree with you 100% Widder you have to use the right tool. However I will still add that I never recomend snapping old CI At a place where you need to keep it! One weak spot and it's time to dig!


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

One of my guys can make 2 maybe 3 cuts with a porta-band saw before you get the snapper on and make the cut....

Like buttah.......


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

ILPlumber said:


> One of my guys can make 2 maybe 3 cuts with a porta-band saw before you get the snapper on and make the cut....
> 
> Like buttah.......


I'd have to time myself to prove that one Matt. I have a lot of experience with both tools, but for speed I would reach for the snappers.


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

I cut a piece of xh in 12 seconds.

Drunk....


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## LEAD INGOT (Jul 15, 2009)

ILPlumber said:


> I cut a piece of xh in 12 seconds.
> 
> Drunk....


 I did it in 11 seconds trippin' balls on ketamine. Check, and mate.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

ILPlumber said:


> One of my guys can make 2 maybe 3 cuts with a porta-band saw before you get the snapper on and make the cut....
> 
> Like buttah.......


What kinda of blade are you using for this? Regular portaband or milwaukee portaband saw?


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

Yo Momma's got a wooden leg wif a kickstand!


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

U666A said:


> Yo Momma's got a wooden leg wif a kickstand!


Yo momma's got an Afro with a chin strap


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

gear junkie said:


> What kinda of blade are you using for this? Regular portaband or milwaukee portaband saw?


 
Lennox 10-14 tpi.

milwaukee deep cut electric and milwaukee deep cut V28. 

The electric cuts considerably faster than the battery. 

One of my guys cut the cord off an electric wrecking pipe a couple years ago. Be careful.....


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## deerslayer (Mar 29, 2012)

portaband blades won't last through much CI. They are great for trimming NH fittings however! I always cut CI that I want to keep with a grinder and wizz wheel for my first choice but if sparks are a problem I will use a sawzall with 14 tpi lennox blades usually 2 per cut depending on the integrity of the CI.


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

deerslayer said:


> portaband blades won't last through much CI. They are great for trimming NH fittings however! I always cut CI that I want to keep with a grinder and wizz wheel for my first choice but if sparks are a problem I will use a sawzall with 14 tpi lennox blades usually 2 per cut depending on the integrity of the CI.



You're using the wrong band saw blade then, and altering a fitting is a code violation around here.


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## BROOKLYN\PLUMB (May 21, 2010)

Killertoiletspider said:


> You're using the wrong band saw blade then, and altering a fitting is a code violation around here.


You've never snapped an ell into two 45°


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

BROOKLYN\PLUMB said:


> You've never snapped an ell into two 45°


I know I have -- I've also shaved a bit off of wyes and tees during remodels. Sometimes snapping in a fitting needs to be surgical in order to reduce the amount of drywall/ceiling repair needed after the tie-in.

I know it supposedly defeats the purpose of the 'sealing ridge' on No-Hub fittings. Still, there aren't any 'sealing ridges' when you join two pieces of No-Hub pipe.


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## deerslayer (Mar 29, 2012)

Killertoiletspider said:


> You're using the wrong band saw blade then, and altering a fitting is a code violation around here.


What blades do you use? More important what brand of pipe are you using. We have charlotte and tyler here. Charlotte snaps and I can get a great almost factory edge everytime, tyler on the other hand snaps horribly and I usually chopsaw it to avoid the really rough cuts. So maybe the difference is in the pipe rather than the blades.


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

BROOKLYN\PLUMB said:


> You've never snapped an ell into two 45°


No, inspectors here would fail the job, they won't let you make a trap with three 90s either.



deerslayer said:


> What blades do you use? More important what brand of pipe are you using. We have charlotte and tyler here. Charlotte snaps and I can get a great almost factory edge everytime, tyler on the other hand snaps horribly and I usually chopsaw it to avoid the really rough cuts. So maybe the difference is in the pipe rather than the blades.


I use Starrett blades, and I use a snap cutter on new pipe, the question was cutting out old pipe, and a bandsaw works great.


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## deerslayer (Mar 29, 2012)

Killertoiletspider said:


> No, inspectors here would fail the job, they won't let you make a trap with three 90s either.
> 
> 
> 
> I use Starrett blades, and I use a snap cutter on new pipe, the question was cutting out old pipe, and a bandsaw works great.


Depends on the age and detoriation of the CI some will cut easy! However you get into a good solid piece and it will eat portaband blades just like new CI will!


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

deerslayer said:


> What blades do you use? More important what brand of pipe are you using. We have charlotte and tyler here. Charlotte snaps and I can get a great almost factory edge everytime, tyler on the other hand snaps horribly and I usually chopsaw it to avoid the really rough cuts. So maybe the difference is in the pipe rather than the blades.


The original question was about pre-war Extra-Heavy cast iron.

Rationing during both of the 'Wars to End all Wars' saw a significant reduction in the amount of pig iron used to manufacture cast iron waste piping.

The ID remained fairly static, but the OD suffered as more and more iron was diverted towards the War Effort.

Having been around as long as I have, I know which neighborhoods in my area were around pre-war, which neighborhoods were built up to support the war effort (housing) and which neighborhoods were built up after the conflict.


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

deerslayer said:


> Depends on the age and detoriation of the CI some will cut easy! However you get into a good solid piece and it will eat portaband blades just like new CI will!


I've cut out a lot of XH CI in my time, some of it well over a hundred years old, and never had a problem with blade life. Cutting galvanized, IPS and Duriron however, is a much different story.


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## deerslayer (Mar 29, 2012)

I can't say that I have ever used starret portaband blades but the CI here if it's in good shape doesn't cut well with a portaband.


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## affordabledrain (Nov 24, 2009)

I just use a hammer and chisel to score. Than i use a hack saw to cut it. Gives me a nice clean edge. It may take forever and a day, but thats how I do it.


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