# Sediment Trapped in Water Supply Lines



## MP_PLUMBING

Have a client that bought a 20 year old house in the mountains here. It is on well water and there is a big sediment problem. Most of the problems were fixed by replacing shower heads and aerators, but the cold water line on upstairs tub and the line serving the downstairs toilet are plugged with sediment and barely flow at all.

First I installed a 20" Big Blue sediment filter with shutoffs and gauges on each side with a hose bibb upstream and a low point drain right before it enters the house. We backflushed using pre-filtered water from every fixture in the house and some sediment did come out, but there was no notable improvement in flow. It actually caused the cold water supply to the faucet near the problem tub that used to work fine to now have impaired flow.

Before I start estimating how much to replace piping, would like to see if there are any ideas, any suggestions that could help solve this problem without tearing walls open. Of course, it's not just run in drywall. Replacing the pipe upstairs would entail demolition of nice hardwood walls and ceilings.

Thanks,

JK


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## rjbphd

Water ram gun


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## revenge

Compressed air above the psi of water into hose if its atty 40 bump it to sixty with a ball valve on cold side ave cap off line to heater at house bob out side install valve pressure up and open should do the trick


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## MP_PLUMBING

rjbphd said:


> Water ram gun


Don't have one nor have used one. Do they make attachments for blowing out a 1/2" line?


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## revenge

disconect water heater at install air gauge air it up ten or twenty psi over normal working pressure install ball valve where hose bib is at air it up and release should do the trick


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## MP_PLUMBING

revenge said:


> Compressed air above the psi of water into hose if its atty 40 bump it to sixty with a ball valve on cold side ave cap off line to heater at house bob out side install valve pressure up and open should do the trick


Have considered that but my compressor sucks. Though can probably rent or borrow a good one.


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## Plumbus

MP_PLUMBING said:


> Have considered that but my compressor sucks. Though can probably rent or borrow a good one.


Why don't you just buy a good one. They have many uses in plumbing.


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## BigDave

MP_PLUMBING said:


> Have a client that bought a 20 year old house in the mountains here. It is on well water and there is a big sediment problem. Most of the problems were fixed by replacing shower heads and aerators, but the cold water line on upstairs tub and the line serving the downstairs toilet are plugged with sediment and barely flow at all.


If you can find a way to inject vinegar into the system, this would break
down hard water (calcium/magnesium) deposits into small enough particles
to pass through most supply stops. I can state from experience that it is
a two man job, for someone must control both open ends of the pipe you
are trying to restore flow to. The pressures required don't have to be high
to work, but the vinegar takes a long time to work.
Please note that removing the interior buildup can in some cases reveal
leaks (pin holes). I don't know if a 20 year old system would be low risk.
Get your customer to sign off on the possiblity that ANYTHING you might
attempt could have negative results (other that a repipe of course).


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## JK949

What material was used to plumb the house? What style of tub valve?


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## MP_PLUMBING

Found what is likely the problem with the upstairs cold serving the tub. 

Before going up the wall to the second story it dips down, reduces from 3/4" to 1/2" on the horizontal before going up with just one 1/2" line to serve the tub and probably the lav as well. 

Of course we would like 3/4" all the way to the tub but it was "backwoods owner builder" doing the work. If it works when unclogged, will be fine as is.

So I'll remove and clean the "sediment trap" and see if that solves it. Unfortunately, the downstairs toilet piping is inaccessible, crawl space is blocked off by large AC duct. May have to get more creative there.


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## MP_PLUMBING

JK949 said:


> What material was used to plumb the house? What style of tub valve?


Mostly copper but there is still some galv left coming in and out of the water heater upstairs.


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## MP_PLUMBING

BigDave said:


> If you can find a way to inject vinegar into the system, this would break
> down hard water (calcium/magnesium) deposits into small enough particles
> to pass through most supply stops. I can state from experience that it is
> a two man job, for someone must control both open ends of the pipe you
> are trying to restore flow to. The pressures required don't have to be high
> to work, but the vinegar takes a long time to work.
> Please note that removing the interior buildup can in some cases reveal
> leaks (pin holes). I don't know if a 20 year old system would be low risk.
> Get your customer to sign off on the possiblity that ANYTHING you might
> attempt could have negative results (other that a repipe of course).


It seems to be mostly large grain sediment but where it's packed into the pipe, the problem may be compounded by mineral deposits. Maybe vinegar will break it apart? Will have a progress update later today, thank you!


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## rjbphd

MP_PLUMBING said:


> It seems to be mostly large grain sediment but where it's packed into the pipe, the problem may be compounded by mineral deposits. Maybe vinegar will break it apart? Will have a progress update later today, thank you!


That's where the water ram comes in...


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## MP_PLUMBING

rjbphd said:


> That's where the water ram comes in...


I did look into that, looks like there are attachments that would work. Just would have to throw down some coin to get one. Don't know anyone that has one. May try the Co2 blaster they have for 25 bucks at Home Depot. Looks like it has 1/2" MIP connection which is good. Hmm.


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## MP_PLUMBING

Plumbus said:


> Why don't you just buy a good one. They have many uses in plumbing.


Mine is actually decent and kicks ass for testing, but just low storage capacity. It still may work. Just have been thinking that more capacity = longer time to discharge air at 70 to 80 PSI (water pressure is 60 into the house). Have a friend with a bigger compressor in case mine doesn't cut it.


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## MP_PLUMBING

Nothing came out when I removed the perceived "sediment trap" section of pipe; inside of pipe was clean so the section between the crawlspace and the tub valve is where the sediment clog is. 

I reassembled the section of pipe with Sharkbite couplings, so now can just blow out the section from the tub down into a bucket in the crawlspace.

Will be a few days to a week before going back up there, will keep posted after next visit, thanks everybody.


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