# Supporting pipes from sheetrock walls



## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

There's got to be a few different ways to do this, so I'm looking for some input.

I installed an RPZ on some crooked-as-butt pipes on this job I took over recently. It's a mess, but without adding a few extra 90s or opening the wall, I did what I could do. That being said, what's your way of supporting the pipes?

Here's the 3/4" drops for the water heater (that the other plumber didn't even rough in!)









And here's the RPZ









To support them, I used split ring hangers, 3/8" all-thread and 3/8" toggle bolts, with fender washers to cover the holes & tighten it all up.









What are my other options, besides the obvious "Install blocking in the wall and strap it to the blocking."


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## c-note (Aug 12, 2011)

*srapping*

i usually use uni-strutt then plumb closer to the wall.the uni-strutt will cover 
any span width


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## suzie (Sep 1, 2010)

If it were me I would locate studs then attach some 7/8 unistrut and then use the split rings. Or come off of floor with rod to support weight vertically but never have I used toggle bolts in sheet rock yikes. Uno accidente waiting to happen...IMPO


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

They make Zip Anchors that thread into sheetrock by way of a cordless drill.

After figuring how wide you want your spread of unistrut, mark it on wall and set your anchors. Then set your unistrut to wall and screw it to the rock with the screws that come with the zips plus some washers... It's a pretty rigid set up.


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

Before looking at ALL of the pics, I was going to suggest toggle bolts.

Ya done good kid!

Other than that I would look up Rawl or Powers Fasteners and see if they have something to meet your needs.

UA


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## gladerunner (Jan 24, 2009)

I prefer the uni-strut also. if you rest it on the slab, your anchors in the wall are just to keep it from racking


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## HOMER (Jun 5, 2011)

Screw a piece of ¾" plywood to the studs.

than you can connect with whatever fastener or clamping item you choose.


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## cityplumbing (Jun 12, 2010)

The toggle bolts work fine. If you want to be able to swing on the piping I would use either Kindorf (unistrut), plywood or 2x4 from stud to stud on outside of wall.


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

Hilti toggles, they are rated for over two hundred pounds in 5/8 rock, and they don't fall down inside the wall when you take the screw out.


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## bizzybeeplumbin (Jul 19, 2011)

I used to use a product called: cant find it here in Raleigh....

http://www.sktisclamp.com/products/clamps.php 

I have to admit, I've been to a few different supply houses, the strapping material section is weak.


You did good!

Robert


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Looks good, Wondering what happened to the vertical feed part of the 

90*s. Did you have to pull them off?


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Looks good -- Is that a wye strainer on the outlet?


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## bizzybeeplumbin (Jul 19, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> Looks good -- Is that a wye strainer on the outlet?


No, its on the inlet, see the arrow? Hard to see, but its there


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

bizzybeeplumbin said:


> No, its on the inlet, see the arrow? Hard to see, but its there


 Never seen an RP with that direction of flow.

Looks like a Conbraco to me.


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## Stewiegriffin (Aug 29, 2011)

You can tell by the orientation of the checks.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Stewiegriffin said:


> You can tell by the orientation of the checks.


Did he spin the shut offs around?

Test port on the right isolation valve is on the wrong side of the assembly.


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## bizzybeeplumbin (Jul 19, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> Never seen an RP with that direction of flow.
> 
> Looks like a Conbraco to me.



I triple looked, that's how I found the arrow


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## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

#1 test cock is usually before the isolation valve.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

bizzybeeplumbin said:


> I triple looked, that's how I found the arrow


 Looks Hinkie.

That test port on the right hand side is bass ackwards.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

hroark2112 said:


> #1 test cock is usually before the isolation valve.


Just looked it up -- You're right.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Attach ply wood to studs then 1" 5/8 unistrut to wood ,, you can space the strut off the wall more if needed with wood blocking ,,,,, primer and paint the wood and strut for a great professional look If you take time to center the rpz on the wood and the strut it would look great ....... A cheaper faster fix is a Sammy , it's a lag bolt with female 3/8s thread in the head , screw it in stud then all thread in to it and hide it with washer and nut


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

I like the cleaner look of the all thread with toggles rather than plywood or unistrut. Of course if your going to bungee jump of the pipe they may not be best but I think it's a great idea for clean looking support.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

plbgbiz said:


> I like the cleaner look of the all thread with toggles rather than plywood or unistrut. Of course if your going to bungee jump of the pipe they may not be best but I think it's a great idea for clean looking support.


I aree it is cleaner but I don't know how strong the rock is. I did I into steel. Tapped the Iron !!!


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

I like to use copper bell hangers in mechanical rooms -- It just looks cleaner.


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> I aree it is cleaner but I don't know how strong the rock is. I did I into steel. Tapped the Iron !!!


 
How do they trim that out with a bunch of all thread sticking out of it?


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

ILPlumber said:


> How do they trim that out with a bunch of all thread sticking out of it?


It stays exposed .... It's on the roof... It's the trunk line for defogger system


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Zinc plated steel rod I assume...

Wouldn't last long in the weather here...


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> It stays exposed .... It's on the roof... It's the trunk line for defogger system


 
Hmm. Different area of the country I guess.

I like C-port blocks myself.

Everything here gets covered. I wonder how the rainwater is divereted that blows in under that treated lumber.....

Different strokes.....


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Redwood said:


> Zinc plated steel rod I assume...
> 
> Wouldn't last long in the weather here...


Yes Why not ?? Would primer and paint help ??


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

It would be covered with powder coated steel or aluminum. Flashed over the top of the rubber roof.

_____________
|********** \ front of building
| 
|
|
/
roofing

Like that. One continous bent flashing. No water infiltration....


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

ILPlumber said:


> It would be covered with powder coated steel or aluminum. Flashed over the top of the rubber roof.
> 
> _____________
> |********** \ front of building
> ...


The wood does get a metal cap .... Or flashing but it doesn't go all the way to the rubber white roof . The red iron is basically floating above the sealed roof . Yes kinds weird to me to


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> Yes Why not ?? Would primer and paint help ??


Yea, it would rapidly turn that nice white roof into a rust streak here...


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