# It's fun to hit a milestone.



## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

We probably all have certain goals for ourselves. Mine are not generally extravagant (I like to keep them attainable). Well today I had a first and it was a good first and it feels pretty good. I'm sure there are others who have done this lots of times but today was the first for me.

I sold a pair of Noritz N-0751M tankless water heaters to be installed in parallel starting next Wednesday :thumbup:. Actually I guess I had another first because I also sold Noritz's scale shield to go with it :thumbup:.

That makes a total of 3 tankless installs scheduled for next week which I guess is another first because I've never done that many in a single week  :thumbup:  :thumbup:! If I sell one more before the end of the month that will be another first because 3 in one month is the most I've ever done.


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## UnclogNH (Mar 28, 2009)

Congrats on all the sales :thumbsup: And congrats on hitting 1000 posts soon :thumbup:


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

2 units in one month is my record.


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## Phat Cat (Apr 1, 2009)

Congrats Smells!

And here I thought it was going to be the joy and elation of hitting 1,000 posts on Plumbing Zone!

Early congrats on that as well! :thumbsup:


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## Song Dog (Jun 12, 2008)

That is awesome! WTG!!!!!!!!!!
Show us pics :thumbsup:

In Christ,

Song Dog


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## Tankless (Jun 12, 2008)

Congrats!! Eat your Wheaties...ur gonna need them. Few points for you:

Don't trim the data cable to fit, just neatly coil it up in one of the units. If you have the electrician do snap switches, each heater needs its own. Of course, don't tee the pressure relief lines. Take lots of pics for your portfolio.

Most importantly plan on extra time to mess with the heaters after installation. You will need to learn how to use one remote for both heaters...example:

After installation is done, get into the maintance menu. Scroll up to page 14 (GPM out flow). Turn on a fixture, the number shown will be for the primamry unit at that time. Say it's 1.5 gpm, than press the alert button, and you will see another number (prolly 000) that is the reading of the other unit (the secondary). Open those puppies up and you will see the work load being shared at a certain demand draw. It's cool to see it work. What I do on those is a 3/4" bib on the hot side after the parallel tee. This way you can do testing and future trouble shooting. Things like page 31 (temp out) when running the unitS you can make sure they are both the same and recheck this at different demand draws. Take the handle with you so no one messes with it. Don't use the ISO valves hot port to test with on these...it won't work. Heep the second remote if possible. Just tell them the price included one heater or something. Having extra remotes will come in handy one day....believe that.

Doint a duel unit system is simple, but pay attention to the details. I have fixed more duel installs than I have installed. You are beyond most of those guys mistakes but still, this is a learning project so have respect for it and you will be sucessful.

I am sure you know, the day you turn these on, the computer will automatically assign a primary and secondary. They will change work loads after 800 gallons has flowed through that days primary or 24 hrs has elapsed. The remote functions exactly the same, just remember the alarm set button is what switches back and forth. If you have the covers off and you are switching back and forth, the red led on the mobo will light up for the unit's data you are looking at.

I remember my first duel tankless well...I made some mistakes but overall it came out well. Having good experience with the location / clean air make up / proper gassing / good water...etc...etc...makes for a sucessful install. If you get into a bind, you know how to reach me!!

Congrats again!


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

Thanks everybody.

Tankless, a minor panic set in after reading your post. The single remote is for what reason? I have ordered N-0751M-DVC from the local supply. I ran to Noritz's website to look at the install instructions. They contain instructions for multi install, although I did not read them through. They will be delivered tomorrow. Of course the DVC has the remote integral to the unit. Is this a problem? Should I call in the morning and change to the M's. I would prefer to use the DVC because I'm getting what I think is a pretty decent price on them as compared to the M's and because my wall penetration is considerably smaller and the vent kits are less, also they remove all doubt with respect to combustion air. 

There is a generator near. I am aware of distance requirements to any forced air inlet (to the house). Any issues with a generator? I don't think there are but I have never attempted to install one at this proximity. Also I hope I haven't screwed up on my gas. I do not know the exact btu rating for the generator but it had a 1/2" maxtrol regulator in line on a 2# system which means that although it could be rated higher, it won't be receiving more than 144K BTU, at least with that regulator it won't, so that's what I rated it at. 

I will be printing your post and carrying it with me on Wednesday along with any other words of wisdom you care to share.


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

Oh yeah, another reason for the DVC, ... their worth more points and every point helps.


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## Tankless (Jun 12, 2008)

I have about 100+ installs that I haven't done the reg for the points...I just hate doing that stuff.....Yeah, I know.

See the pic below and read the red. I think my price is about $60-65 more for the DVC units. The DVC is the better unit IMHO. The elimination of dirty or starved make up air is a big problem and it is totally taken care of with these units for just about the same costs. As for a Jenny, as long as it puts out a true sine wave you're good. I assume this is a back up jenny? After the unit has been powered up and turned on for a few minutes, the memory is non-volital. Once power is restored to the units they will load up at the same temps and will retain their primary - secondary positions. Thy that with a Navien (which I have to install another one to do on Thursday). As for gassing, yo're looking at 400 Kbtus. I'd like to see NO MORE than a 2" drop TOTAL wjhen both units fire. Now that said, I don't know about your #2 and # this or that gas sizing. I am on low pressure so you are on your own with that. I don't understand what you mean by the jenny taking 144K (its regulator?) and what you rated it at......I guess I should learn about that type of gassing, but it's not allowed or ever used in my parts.

The DVC units are more quiet and perform almost exactly the same. These make great attic installs because the fans are a lot more quiet. You'll do fine, just remember what you have learned on all the others and do a good job, even on the portions no one will ever see. 

Read that manual too, it has a lot of info that is specific to this unit. 
http://noritz.com/u/installation_manual_n_0751m_dvc.pdf

The horizantal vent must taper downward away from the unit. Do the condensate drip line the way you have seen mine....trap em and strap em.

Page 3


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

Tankless said:


> I have about 100+ installs that I haven't done the reg for the points...I just hate doing that stuff.....Yeah, I know.
> 
> See the pic below and read the red. I think my price is about $60-65 more for the DVC units. The DVC is the better unit IMHO. The elimination of dirty or starved make up air is a big problem and it is totally taken care of with these units for just about the same costs. As for a Jenny, as long as it puts out a true sine wave you're good. I assume this is a back up jenny? After the unit has been powered up and turned on for a few minutes, the memory is non-volital. Once power is restored to the units they will load up at the same temps and will retain their primary - secondary positions. Thy that with a Navien (which I have to install another one to do on Thursday). As for gassing, yo're looking at 400 Kbtus. I'd like to see NO MORE than a 2" drop TOTAL wjhen both units fire. Now that said, I don't know about your #2 and # this or that gas sizing. I am on low pressure so you are on your own with that. I don't understand what you mean by the jenny taking 144K (its regulator?) and what you rated it at......I guess I should learn about that type of gassing, but it's not allowed or ever used in my parts.
> 
> ...


You realize that's at least $2500.00 you've left lying around (why do I think of those Geico googly eyes?)


Yes, it's a backup for the entire house. Sits on a pad just outside the wall of the garage. We get lots of weather you don't get (everything from tornadoes to the occasional blizzard) and those who can afford it will often have them installed the first time they are without power for a week or ten days. An event causing this might happen once a decade so they mostly just sit but when you need them they are priceless.

I assume you are refering to the DVC's.

The gas system is a 2psig (2#) system. Delivery pressure from the downside of the meter is 2psig throughout the distribution system. When it reaches an outlet it passes through a regulator to reduce it down to 1/2 psig. Depending on distances and demand most outlets will have their own regulator but sometimes you can run multiple outlets, again depending on distance and demand, on a single regulator. This is where I see a lot of problems with installs I have not done because the typical max btu/hr will be around 120 psig and that would be for an ng furnace. What this means is that a 1/2" regulator is typically sufficient for anything in the house, ... except a tankless. For tankless you have to go up to a 3/4" regulator. Btw, we have plenty of low pressure gas here too but anything done in the last 15 -20 years will be a 2psig system.

I do not know the max btu/hr input rating of the generator but I do know the max btu/hr rating of the outlet regulator serving the generator. That particular regulator is rated for 144K btu/hr. That's why I rated the generator at 144K btu/hr. However, after thinking about this more, the regulator is easily changed to a larger size allowing much higher btu/hr (if the generator does in fact have a higher capacity) which could possibly leave me with a problem so I think I will need to find out the actual on the generator and recalculate my gas. Hope I haven't hosed myself. I didn't figure on running a new line and if I have to it will have to be outside and won't be easy. My previous calculation didn't leave much to spare. This will definately be a learning experience. I've allowed 2 days for the install (that's without running any new gas line) and I think I will be fine. There seems to always be something not forseen, you just deal with it as it comes and file it away for the next time.


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