# Soldering pex stub outs



## DIZ (Nov 17, 2010)

I dont know how many of you do it, but I have taken to soldering my pex stub outs to make them rigid. Especially hose bibs, as they get used more than say water heater stub outs or or lavs, it really helps firm them up. I'm talking about where the cu penetrates the flange.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

In new construction I soldier the stub outs to stub straps. Best put some paper round those stub outs as the drywallers and painters will have joint compound and paint all over them. Hose bibbs I use a drop eared ell and fasten it to a 2X4 with brass nipple.


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## DIZ (Nov 17, 2010)

mpsllc said:


> In new construction I soldier the stub outs to stub straps. Best put some paper round those stub outs as the dry wallers and painters will have joint compound and paint all over them.


Always covered in drywall mud and paint, good call on the paper, would save time on on sanding off their slop. Arent drywallers the best :thumbsup:


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

mpsllc said:


> In new construction I soldier the stub outs to stub straps. Best put some paper round those stub outs as the drywallers and painters will have joint compound and paint all over them. Hose bibbs I use a drop eared ell and fasten it to a 2X4 with brass nipple.


 If they're 1/2" stub outs, slide a 6" piece of 3/4" PEX over them.

Pull the PEX off on trim out and they're as bright and shiny as they were when you roughed 'em in.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

DIZ said:


> I dont know how many of you do it, but I have taken to soldering my pex stub outs to make them rigid. Especially hose bibs, as they get used more than say water heater stub outs or or lavs, it really helps firm them up. I'm talking about where the cu penetrates the flange.



I've recently stopped using the copper clad Hold-Rites for PEX stub out ells.

Had a problem where the H/R was hammering against the back of the drywall every time the lav faucet was turned off.

I now cut a 2x4 to span the stud bay and drill 1-3/8" holes and use plastic insulators to hold the stub out ells in place.


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## greenscoutII (Aug 27, 2008)

I solder my stub outs for any through the floor application, and if I have to use Holdrites (hold wrongs) I sweat those up as well.

I prefer to strap to wood blocking using mickies, flat straps, or talons though. I just think it ends up more solid that way.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

greenscoutII said:


> I solder my stub outs for any through the floor application, and if I have to use Holdrites (hold wrongs) I sweat those up as well.
> 
> I prefer to strap to wood blocking using mickies, flat straps, or talons though. I just think it ends up more solid that way.


 I've had a number of stub out ell/hold-rite solder joints break -- The Drywall hangers see those points on the ends of the stub out ells and think they can push 'em through the drywall. Cabinet installers also try to force the cabinet bases when they mis-drill the holes.

We tried out the HR701's on our last restaurant in January and were very pleased with them -- Now if we could only get our Supply House to keep 'em in stock we'd be set.


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

Widdershins said:


> I've had a number of stub out ell/hold-rite solder joints break -- The Drywall hangers see those points on the ends of the stub out ells and think they can push 'em through the drywall. Cabinet installers also try to force the cabinet bases when they mis-drill the holes.
> 
> We tried out the HR701's on our last restaurant in January and were very pleased with them -- Now if we could only get our Supply House to keep 'em in stock we'd be set.


Never seen anything like that. Would you screw a piece of backing between two studs and drill a hole through the backing? It looks like this gets nailed to something like backing with a compression type retainer. Am I looking at this correctly?


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

U.A.til.I.die said:


> Never seen anything like that. Would you screw a piece of backing between two studs and drill a hole through the backing? It looks like this gets nailed to something like backing with a compression type retainer. Am I looking at this correctly?


 They utilize the HR103-18 brackets.

A little spendy, but better than the alternative.


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

I understand now. And spendy is ok as long as it is cheaper than repairing a mangled clusterphukk of a mess behind the gyp.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

U.A.til.I.die said:


> I understand now. And spendy is ok as long as it is cheaper than repairing a mangled clusterphukk of a mess behind the gyp.


 The 4 little tangs that clip into the wall bracket spread as you tighten the gray nut down.

They seem pretty bullet proof to me.


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

Widdershins said:


> The 4 little tangs that clip into the wall bracket spread as you tighten the gray nut down.
> 
> They seem pretty bullet proof to me.


Yeah, I like it. Never seen those before.


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## greenscoutII (Aug 27, 2008)

Widdershins said:


> I've had a number of stub out ell/hold-rite solder joints break -- The Drywall hangers see those points on the ends of the stub out ells and think they can push 'em through the drywall. Cabinet installers also try to force the cabinet bases when they mis-drill the holes.
> 
> We tried out the HR701's on our last restaurant in January and were very pleased with them -- Now if we could only get our Supply House to keep 'em in stock we'd be set.


 
I've seen those, never tried them though. Look like they'd work pretty well......


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

greenscoutII said:


> I've seen those, never tried them though. Look like they'd work pretty well......


 I'm very happy with them -- The problem has been with supply.


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