# Compression leaks



## mattr1985 (Oct 10, 2013)

On a recent large commercial job during the trim phase I trimmed out 30 or so lavs All of them had a solenoid and mixing valve piped with 3/8 chrome supply tubing. I have done a ton (hundreds) of this type of trim work without a drip and MAYBE a tiny leak every once in a great while. I do it the same every time by tightening enough to compress, not over tightening and using dope where I can. This job was completely different as for at least 2 compression joints on EVERY lav was dripping slowly. Some of them even had all the joints leaking. I also was not the only on trimming sinks out and others were having the same issue, but I did the majority of the lavs. So after losing time tightening and re-doing the supplies, only for it to continue, started using a different set of compression nuts and ferrules than the ones supplied to see if that was the problem. Every joint I did with the the new nuts and ferrules sealed properly with no leaks whatsoever. Needless to say I got my two checks not long after but am I crazy to say that by replacing the supplied nuts and farells with a different brand did the trick while installing them the exact same? I did get the blame here since they were my responsibility but I have never seen anything like it. I was wondering if any of you guys encountered the same problem anywhere recently. Symmons was the brand Mixing valve where the connections leaked most and their supplied nuts a ferrules, I think were the issue.


I also was showed a new trick to stop them from leaking. I took apart the joint and covered the entire ferrule with a small amount of plumbers putty and re tightened. It actually filled the void causing the connection to stop leaking.


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## futz (Sep 17, 2009)

Just did a finish on a large custom house and had multiple small, slow leaks on the wall side of my Brasscraft KTCR19C valves. This was pretty annoying to me because until this house I almost never got leaks on the 1/2" side. Getting the odd drip on the 3/8" outlet isn't too uncommon, but the 1/2" side very rarely leaks. I'm wondering if has something to do with the stupid lead-free bullcrap that's happening lately?


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## aero1 (Feb 13, 2009)

I have always carefully put pipe dope on the ferrules, and cranked them down, then wiped of any residual dope off the supply tube, [brass supply tubes]. when I was an apprentice [long time ago] the old timers taught me that, of course by yelling at me, as that was, the only way they knew how to teach. :no:


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## leakfree (Apr 3, 2011)

last time we used the Symmons we had the same issue,stopped it with a small wrap of tape,I don't know if i like the putty idea too much chance of it getting into the valve.Have had an occasional problem with the Watts USGB's when they have been spece'd also.Seems to be more of an issue with chrome tubes vs. RB.


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

Chrome does tend to be a bit more troublesome. Never had this much of a problem at one location.
I to had always used a little Teflon based compound between the tube and ferrule, and the nut and ferrule.


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## Plumborg (Feb 21, 2013)

My brother and I were finishing trimming out a church and when we turned the water back on EVERY LAV WAS LEAKING. All our bends were dead nuts on too! Those chrome compression tubes were terrible. We ended up taping the hell out of the faucets and cranking down on the nuts. We thought we were on some kind of hidden camera show. I never had a problem with supply tubes until recently.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

If your running PEX and using pre made copper stub outs, the compression stops can leak. When I was doing a lot of new construction we'd custom make the stub outs with L copper. Now I just stub out PEX.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Try heat proof grease on the ferrule and the inner bevelled edge on threaded piece next time instead of putty or tape. I have used that for a long time successfully. I always go about a half turn past hand tight and then tighten as needed after the water is turned on and the line is pressurized. That way you don't over tighten it. The grease is good at filling in imperfections, also. Just a suggestion from a repair guy. I don't do new construction so I am not doing these by the dozens in a day.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

I think it's the ferrules. A neat trick is to wrap one wrap of teflon tape around the the top of the ferrule. When you slide the nut down, it covers it and there is no clean up needed. 
Sucks they doughed you up over it. oh well, file it away in your memory bank and move on.


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