# CPVC sleeve or not to sleeve that is the question



## aldridgeplbg (Dec 26, 2011)

Well I have had some different answers from many people saying that on a multi story building that you have to sleeve and fire caulk and also protect CPVC from the fire caulk with aluminum tape. Then I have also heard that fire caulk your penetrations through floors with no sleeves and no tape? So if there is anybody that could elaborate maybe with a solution or what the code actually says that you should do. I have always sleeved and fire caulked but that is it.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

I suggest not using CPVC, the list of chemicals it cant come in contact with is way to long.


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## justin (May 14, 2010)

Hilti firecaulk . Thats it. Never had to do anything else.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Get a hilti fire book and it will tell you all you need to know


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## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

The engineer should have put the approved firecaulking drawing on the plans. It will specify the exact method for you to follow.


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## justin (May 14, 2010)

C-4 and a dozer. Gitter dunn!!


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

http://www.cfm.va.gov/til/dManual/ChemicalCompatibility.pdf



There is a list as long as your arm of chemicals that erode CPVC. Make sure whatever you install that is touching the CPVC is compatible with it.

I know personally of a plumbing contractor who piped out a multi-story bldg. with CPVC and had leaks where the black rubber grommet was touching the CPVC piping. It was between floors where the CPVC risers passed through penetrations in between floors.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

http://www.bow-group.com/documents/InstallGuide/Plumbing/CCOMP1111.pdf





Here's a nice list of what NOT to use. Look down on page (2).


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## BigDave (Mar 24, 2012)

aldridgeplbg said:


> Well I have had some different answers from many people saying that on a multi story building that you have to sleeve and fire caulk and also protect CPVC from the fire caulk with aluminum tape. Then I have also heard that fire caulk your penetrations through floors with no sleeves and no tape? So if there is anybody that could elaborate maybe with a solution or what the code actually says that you should do. I have always sleeved and fire caulked but that is it.


Fire caulking/sleeving a penetration does no good at slowing or preventing the spread of fire if the pipe material itself is made of plastic. Seconds after the fire reaches it, it melts, resulting in an opening anyway. The last really big job I worked was the international lounge at DFW airport terminal and the ONLY approved materials were copper for water and cast iron for drains. Spec'd for the job were these cool rings that when exposed to high heat (fire), would expand and close the space around the pipe within seconds. The rings were required for ALL concrete or fire rated wall penetrations. Your codes are, what they are, but plastic has way too much liability if things go bad. Then there's that pesky Poly Vinyl Chloride Gas given off when it burns


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

These fill in the void left by the melted pipe






*Metacaulk®) Pipe Collars *are prefabricated for through-penetration firestop systems using PVC, CPVC, ABS, PVC foam core, ABS foam core, FRPP, PEX pipe and Electrical Cable. Designed to reduce installation time by 25% and the simple locking mechanism insures easy installation. Metacaulk® Pipe Collars are economical because no backfill is usually required. UL Classified for both open and closed pipe systems. Complies to Required Environmental Testing of Accelerated Aging and High Humidity as per UL 1479 Fire Test of Through-Penetration Firestops. US Patent Number 6,207,085.















FBC System Compatible indicates that this product has been tested, and is monitored on an ongoing basis, to assure its chemical compatibility with FlowGuard Gold®, BlazeMaster® and Corzan® pipe and fittings. Additional listings
FBC, FlowGuard Gold®, BlazeMaster® and Corzan® are licensed trademarks of the Lubrizol Corporation.*PDF Files*
Click to view. Right-click to copy.Product Datasheet
Product Code Numbers & Sizes
List of Approved Systems
Top


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## BigDave (Mar 24, 2012)

That would be them... :yes:


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## ReelPlumber (Jan 14, 2011)

3M and several other brands make a fire caulk for CPVC. It is yellow instead of red It's water based and has all the UL testing numbers and cut sheets.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediaw...7qe17zHvTSevTSeSSSSSS--&fn=98-0213-4604-8.pdf


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## deerslayer (Mar 29, 2012)

BigDave said:


> Fire caulking/sleeving a penetration does no good at slowing or preventing the spread of fire if the pipe material itself is made of plastic. Seconds after the fire reaches it, it melts, resulting in an opening anyway. The last really big job I worked was the international lounge at DFW airport terminal and the ONLY approved materials were copper for water and cast iron for drains. Spec'd for the job were these cool rings that when exposed to high heat (fire), would expand and close the space around the pipe within seconds. The rings were required for ALL concrete or fire rated wall penetrations. Your codes are, what they are, but plastic has way too much liability if things go bad. Then there's that pesky Poly Vinyl Chloride Gas given off when it burns


Most fire deaths are due to the smoke rather than the fire. Firecaulk prevents the smoke penetration to unaffected floors. While a drain would burn rapidly if pvc a cpvc water line full of H2o would have to be rather hot to overcome the cooling potential of the water which is probably why the cpvc sprinkler pipe is allowed. Also fire caulk is supposed to be intumescent meaning it expands when it burns or superheated. I have experimented with this in my wood stove and was unable to get it to expand but thats the theory?


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## ReelPlumber (Jan 14, 2011)

We did a test several years back using a 3" pvc pipe passing through a top plate of a make shift wall. We covered the back side of the wall with a sheet of plywood and built a fire inside the front side of the open wall. The flame burned through the pvc below the top plate and the upper part of the pipe acted as a chimney. Within 5 minutes the fire collar did its job, it expaned and closed off the hole and prevented the fire from getting through the top plate. It made a beliver out of me.


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## brians plumbing (Jan 12, 2012)

ask the inspector


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