# Draining water while sweating pipe



## ROCcity88 (May 13, 2016)

You all know the issue well I'm sure: making sure you get the water out of the pipe before sweating copper fittings together. Probably the biggest headache on some jobs for me.
If I'm having a hard time, I'll usually open up all the faucets in the house to break the vacuum, as well as breaking off the water meter, and I'll even put a shop vac on the pipe itself to drain the water. I've even used the old trick of putting bread in the pipe, but that's a last resort. I'm just too poor to afford a SweatJet haha
Do you guys have any other tricks of the trade as to how to get the job done?


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

I duct tape a piece of 3/8 copper in my shop vac hose and stick it in the pipe I'm soldering, works great.


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## fixitright (Jan 5, 2012)

Debo22 said:


> I duct tape a piece of 3/8 copper in my shop vac hose and stick it in the pipe I'm soldering, works great.



I do something like that to get crud out of floor drain traps.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

I use drain down couplings. Pricey, usually you have to special order them, but I just charge the customer. Bought a case of 3/4 this summer, came out to almost $8 each...

No code against using them here, but check into your area.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

OpenSights said:


> I use drain down couplings. Pricey, usually you have to special order them, but I just charge the customer. Bought a case of 3/4 this summer, came out to almost $8 each...
> 
> No code against using them here, but check into your area.


 








Are you speaking of a sweat X sweat X FIP fitting? If so, I have used those too. Then just stick a plug in it when done.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

These...


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## Snowyman800 (Jan 7, 2016)

I use 3/8" PEX. It's pretty flexible. I cut whatever length I want and stick it down the pipe to pull it out, like you grab water with a straw from a glass a water. Dump the water in my handy Folger's coffee canister I keep for all purposes and I'm good to go. A little slower than a vacuum I guess but that's what I do. Keeps me from having to duct tape it all up to the vacuum hose.

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## plumberkc (Jun 23, 2011)

Just spend the $50 on a jet sweat. If you really are a service plumber full time you are costing yourself money not buying one. 


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

plumberkc said:


> Just spend the $50 on a jet sweat. If you really are a service plumber full time you are costing yourself money not buying one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Back in the day just starting out I decided to make a set. I had all the material except for the EPDM rubber, so I ordered two of each 1/2 and 3/4. When the box arrived I received two full 1/2 and 3/4 jet sweats.


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

I will blow through he pipe, use a hard supply tube if it's vertical, or wedge the pipe upwards if it's horizontal. I've never used a jet sweat and don't see a use for it personally for me. I really don't find it a big deal sweating cooper lines that have had water in them. By the time you turn off the water, drain down, cut the pipe, then you start preparing your fittings and pipe, the water is almost always gone. 


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## jnohs (Jan 27, 2012)

propress, I wouldn't even think about soldering any thing with latent water in it.


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

ROCcity88 said:


> You all know the issue well I'm sure: making sure you get the water out of the pipe before sweating copper fittings together. <snip>
> 
> Other tricks from the past ... Jelly Beans, I used many a box they worked!


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

https://www.zoro.com/test-tite-twis...17QO3vzC3YR73pJXQ0scNhoCAlbw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


Or the Jet Pack, but the full set is pricey.

http://www.plumbing-deals.com/index...s86HsCZ_dWAntTjpc9PQvJQY4oXeMRF45iBoCJBLw_wcB
Works every time, first time. Just use a full port ball valve, solder the leaking side, shut the valve, join the pipe and your done.


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

PLUMBER_BILL said:


> ROCcity88 said:
> 
> 
> > You all know the issue well I'm sure: making sure you get the water out of the pipe before sweating copper fittings together. <snip>
> ...


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## mtfallsmikey (Jan 11, 2010)

I just posted in the propress thread about having to mooch a piece of bread from customers for that situation!


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

My bottom line is if you have problems with water sweating in a residential situation you need to find a new job, it's fairly easy 


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

Michaelcookplum said:


> My bottom line is if you have problems with water sweating in a residential situation you need to find a new job, it's fairly easy
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Agreed


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Michaelcookplum said:


> My bottom line is if you have problems with water sweating in a residential situation you need to find a new job...


Quote worth re-quoting ^^^


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

plbgbiz said:


> Quote worth re-quoting ^^^








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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

This is what I have used to steam all the residual water out of a copper line under a slab. First, the shop vac. Then this fitting just in case some water droplets are still lurking.


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## MDservices (May 9, 2016)

I use sharkbite fitting to make the connection, then I go home, hang up my tools and never work in plumbing ever again... 

kidding!

Ive never had to use the swetjet or whatever it is called but I am tempted to buy it because I end up spending a lot of time figuring out different ways to weld... often I end up welding a new valve and the trick I use often is to prepare everything, heat the pipe up and then last minute, I flux, slip on the valve and I just elevate the pipe at an angle that I have a bit of time to weld before the water continues to drip up towards where I am welding. Not sure I am explaining right. BUt yet, works great on 1/2 pipe.


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## Eddy k (Jan 30, 2015)

jet sweats rule, use to keep in the shop now keep on the truck


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

I made a tool to divert the water while i sweat a ball valve on. Simply a plug with a 1/4 inch pipe 12 inch's long. Simply push it in and the water diverts threw the 1/4 inch and the pipe walls are dry. After soldering you pull it out and shut the valve.


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

Also always try make your joint on a vertical piece of pipe, or make the last fitting you sweat on a vertical piece


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

MDservices said:


> I use sharkbite fitting to make the connection, then I go home, hang up my tools and never work in plumbing ever again...
> 
> kidding!
> 
> Ive never had to use the swetjet or whatever it is called but I am tempted to buy it because I end up spending a lot of time figuring out different ways to *weld*... often I end up *welding* a new valve and the trick I use often is to prepare everything, heat the pipe up and then last minute, I flux, slip on the valve and I just elevate the pipe at an angle that I have a bit of time to *weld* before the water continues to drip up towards where I am *welding*. Not sure I am explaining right. BUt yet, works great on 1/2 pipe.










Sweating or welding?


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Snowyman800 said:


> I use 3/8" PEX. It's pretty flexible. I cut whatever length I want and stick it down the pipe to pull it out, like you grab water with a straw from a glass a water. Dump the water in my handy Folger's coffee canister I keep for all purposes and I'm good to go. A little slower than a vacuum I guess but that's what I do. Keeps me from having to duct tape it all up to the vacuum hose.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


Why not use a rubber stopper with 3/8 hole, that way you won't mess with the stickess from the tape..

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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

plumberkc said:


> Just spend the $50 on a jet sweat. If you really are a service plumber full time you are costing yourself money not buying one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have a full set... sitting at bottom of my tool compartment, waiting to be used..

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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

rjbphd said:


> I have a full set... sitting at bottom of my tool compartment, waiting to be used..
> 
> Sent from my SM-G386T using Tapatalk












That's because guys like you only use sharkbites........:laughing:











Just kidding RJ.


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## Letterrip (Jul 28, 2013)

I'm sure RJ has some trick that involves a folding ruler. 


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## Frozen_Plumber (Nov 16, 2016)

I came into this thread with the intention of making a Sharkbite joke, but I see others have beat me to it...


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## SHEPLMBR70 (Feb 25, 2016)

An old cojer taught me how to use bread. In a pinch


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

Eddy k said:


> jet sweats rule, use to keep in the shop now keep on the truck


I have a set of plugs with a diverter 1/4 inch diverter tube that makes it possible to push it in the pipe divert the water while sweating a valve on then you simply pull it out. This eliminates the problem of pressure build up.


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

wyrickmech said:


> I have a set of plugs with a diverter 1/4 inch diverter tube that makes it possible to push it in the pipe divert the water while sweating a valve on then you simply pull it out. This eliminates the problem of pressure build up.




Picture?


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## Oorgnid (Apr 5, 2016)

If I have a straw available, I'll use that to grab the water out of the pipe. Bigger diameter pipe, I'll stick a smaller size piece of pex in to pull it out. If I'm able to slant the pipe slightly so the water runs back the pipe, I'll do that. Other than that, I just stick my mouth on it and suck. Kekeke


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## panther (Oct 27, 2010)

Sounds grody, but I'll blow air into the pipe or in some case use a bicycle tire pump and some fitting I've rigged to put air into the line. A ton of water usually pours out afterwards and drains it well enough to solder. Getting the water out was one of the first things I learned.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

SHEPLMBR70 said:


> An old cojer taught me how to use bread. In a pinch












Same here. An old timer taught me the bread trick in a pinch. He said it has to be white bread {not rye, etc.}, and to remove the crust.

I have had a steam hole leak. They are so tiny, that you almost can't even see it. But when you cup your hand around the soldered joint, you feel tiny, tiny water stream on your hand.


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

I made a set of cylinders with o ring seals in the middle I drilled a hole and taped it for 1/4 inch pipe. When soldering a problem line the cylinder is pushed into the line and the water is diverted. A full port valve is used to then control water.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

Michaelcookplum said:


> I will blow through he pipe, use a hard supply tube if it's vertical, or wedge the pipe upwards if it's horizontal. I've never used a jet sweat and don't see a use for it personally for me. I really don't find it a big deal sweating cooper lines that have had water in them. By the time you turn off the water, drain down, cut the pipe, then you start preparing your fittings and pipe, the water is almost always gone.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Same with me,I have never had no trouble draining down a system and sweating copper,to me it would be a dust collector


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## 89plumbum (May 14, 2011)

SHEPLMBR70 said:


> An old cojer taught me how to use bread. In a pinch


I recently witnessed an entire loaf hold back 35 stories of residual. I couldn't believe my eyes It worked but maintenance is still cleaning out aerators a month later...


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## SHEPLMBR70 (Feb 25, 2016)

89plumbum said:


> I recently witnessed an entire loaf hold back 35 stories of residual. I couldn't believe my eyes It worked but maintenance is still cleaning out aerators a month later...


An entire loaf? LMAO


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

89plumbum said:


> I recently witnessed an entire loaf hold back 35 stories of residual. I couldn't believe my eyes It worked but maintenance is still cleaning out aerators a month later...














Did they remove the crusts? White bread only and remove the crust.


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## 89plumbum (May 14, 2011)

Tommy plumber said:


> Did they remove the crusts? White bread only and remove the crust.


White bread, yes. Crust, no. It was a 5" high pressure line.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

the problem with using bread like that is it will go bad and turn rancid in the water lines and someone will get sick, then who is to blame??? also add in what if someone is gluten intolerant? and gets a glass full of dissolved bread? just remember" nothing happens till something happens"..if you want, call your insurance company and see if they will cover you for food poisoning if you use bread, is this a certified practice?..yes it sounds stupid and petty to state, but wait for the first time you get sued for something you do all the time and never had an issue..the lawyers are circling anyone and everything to see if they cant bleed you out of some $$$...you wont use any fixtures if they arent stamped or have cert #s cast into them, so why use non certified methods that could cause sickness.....ok a small piece of bread in a residential single family home doesnt have much risk if you explain and or ask the homeowner if anyone is allergic and you can flush that line clean, but the comment above after using a loaf of bread in an apartment building, that the maintenance guys are still getting bread a month later in aerators , is not good..


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## 89plumbum (May 14, 2011)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> the problem with using bread like that is it will go bad and turn rancid in the water lines and someone will get sick, then who is to blame??? also add in what if someone is gluten intolerant? and gets a glass full of dissolved bread? just remember" nothing happens till something happens"..if you want, call your insurance company and see if they will cover you for food poisoning if you use bread, is this a certified practice?..yes it sounds stupid and petty to state, but wait for the first time you get sued for something you do all the time and never had an issue..the lawyers are circling anyone and everything to see if they cant bleed you out of some $$$...you wont use any fixtures if they arent stamped or have cert #s cast into them, so why use non certified methods that could cause sickness.....ok a small piece of bread in a residential single family home doesnt have much risk if you explain and or ask the homeowner if anyone is allergic and you can flush that line clean, but the comment above after using a loaf of bread in an apartment building, that the maintenance guys are still getting bread a month later in aerators , is not good..


I agree. It was not us, but some other plumber engineering hired while we were doing a shut down for something else. Personally, I would brazed in flanges.


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## SHEPLMBR70 (Feb 25, 2016)

I said in a pinch. Maybe a 1/2 inch line and making sure you flush it and pull aerators and shower heads. But even I know knot anything like a 5" high pressure main.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

89plumbum said:


> I recently witnessed an entire loaf hold back 35 stories of residual. I couldn't believe my eyes It worked but maintenance is still cleaning out aerators a month later...


:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::whistling2:


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

these work very well to hold back residual water if you are putting a full size valve or fitting , not if you have to close up a pipe and not leave access to get the plug out..
https://www.amazon.com/Z4-Multi-siz...rd_wg=ODy60&psc=1&refRID=D2YYD86F70XYBE3CT5PC


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

2" is the largest I've dealt with, and have been pretty lucky with the larger (to me) lines.

However, SRDH just reminded me of the issue I had with jetswets, or a pos valve. A guy I worked for once once bought these cheap 3/4" ball valves that weren't true 3/4 inside. I found this out at an apartment complex we took care of. It was the same story every time. Maintenance guy would shut off the old gate valves under the kitchen sink. About 6pm we'd get the call. These buildings take an hour to drain before the pressure let off, 3 hours to completely drain. I'd cut the line a bit early and shove the JS down with a shopvac on and zip tied near, basically on the fly. Really pissed me off when I went to pull it out to shut the valve and had to unsweat it and run to an ace hardware.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

OpenSights said:


> 2" is the largest I've dealt with, and have been pretty lucky with the larger (to me) lines.
> 
> However, SRDH just reminded me of the issue I had with jetswets, or a pos valve. A guy I worked for once once bought these cheap 3/4" ball valves that weren't true 3/4 inside. I found this out at an apartment complex we took care of. It was the same story every time. Maintenance guy would shut off the old gate valves under the kitchen sink. About 6pm we'd get the call. These buildings take an hour to drain before the pressure let off, 3 hours to completely drain. I'd cut the line a bit early and shove the JS down with a shopvac on and zip tied near, basically on the fly. Really pissed me off when I went to pull it out to shut the valve and had to unsweat it and run to an ace hardware.


thats why the expandable plugs work better, you dont need a full port valve, they will squash down quiet a bit..


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

OpenSights said:


> 2" is the largest I've dealt with, and have been pretty lucky with the larger (to me) lines.
> 
> However, SRDH just reminded me of the issue I had with jetswets, or a pos valve. A guy I worked for once once bought these cheap 3/4" ball valves that weren't true 3/4 inside. I found this out at an apartment complex we took care of. It was the same story every time. Maintenance guy would shut off the old gate valves under the kitchen sink. About 6pm we'd get the call. These buildings take an hour to drain before the pressure let off, 3 hours to completely drain. I'd cut the line a bit early and shove the JS down with a shopvac on and zip tied near, basically on the fly. Really pissed me off when I went to pull it out to shut the valve and had to unsweat it and run to an ace hardware.


 











Wow. That is awful when that happens during the daytime, but at 7 or 8 PM at night that has got to really be awful. 

I'll bet that if you ever go to use your jet sweat moving forward, you ALWAYS check to see if it pulls out of the valve before you sweat.....:yes:...

"Once bitten, twice shy."


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Lesson learned, trust me. On the drain cleaning side, which is my company, I've spent the money on what I want to get the job done better. It's taken a bit of time to do so, but the freedom of being able to get the equipment I want and earn for myself is amazing. 

The Master I work for has been the best mentor I've ever had; he's old school, but keeps with the times. So on the plumbing side he never buys crap fittings. 

My dad taught me early on to pride in myself in everything I do, even if it's just sweeping a floor. The best job possible is the only acceptable outcome.


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## JohnnieSqueeze (Mar 23, 2016)

Use a ****load of heat. Got a manifold, 4 canisters of map gas to my torch. Never had a problem, even with water turned on


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

Please post
pic of four bottle mapp setup?


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## HonestPlumb (Jan 25, 2015)

Doesn't anyone use a Propress tool ? Doesn't matter how much of a water problem you have, you slide the Propress fitting or ball valve on, press it with the tool, and no more water problem ! I have been in business for about 25 years. Took my son 3 years to talk me into even trying it(I was a "copper sweat" guy, through and 
through ), I used all of the methods mentioned, in my years of "water problems". Saw the Propress method demonstrated and was sure those fittings would leak. Borrowed a Rigid 200B , and was hooked. Bought the 200B tool with 1/2" to 1 1/4" Propress jaws for copper, and 1/2" to 1 1/4" for ViegaPex fittings. Have not had one leak yet. If it does, just press it again. Never a water problem to deal with. No more flame, and fire "jitters" to worry about. Plus the amount of time saved is incredible, especially if your running Pex. Was never a fan of "plastic" water piping, after using the Pex and ViegaPex brass fittings, I changed my mind about it. I run it so it is always straight, and secured properly. If running black pipe for gas or steam, they have MegaPresss jaws for the special fittings for black pipe, The fittings are expensive, but you make it up in time saved. Need the stronger tool than the one I have for that. I am still on the fence on those. Would like to see the extreme heat the seals are subjected to, with steam over a long period. I still build a steel and black cast iron fitting header on my steam boilers. Very few outfits in my area are still doing them that way. Some things I refuse to change ! Supply house near me will rent the MegaPress jaws and tool for that. Usually there is no problems fitting the tool and jaw into the area. Milwaukee, has come out with a thinner version, which fits most any situation. While it is not a inexpensive investment, the amount of time/labor saved is well worth the investment ! Sometimes, you "can" teach an old dog new tricks !


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

I used a potato once to cap a line. We cut it thinking it was dead but to our surprise it was full pressure. We were in a kitchen of a local hospital so out of desperation I grabbed the only thing available a potato. I figured since we were going to find a valve that actually had the gate still in it we would remove it and my partner said the water was getting hot. So jam it in there and solder a cap on. Funny thing is that the starch when heated acts as a glue and sealed it off. It was a funny story but I would not attempt it unless all options are gone.


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

I'm with the guy using a shop vacuum and small hose. Saved us plenty of times.

But have you ever turned everything on in the house and do a screw pipe live? 
I'll do a hose Bibb outside live in a second. Fun times


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

KoleckeINC said:


> I'm with the guy using a shop vacuum and small hose. Saved us plenty of times.
> 
> But have you ever turned everything on in the house and do a screw pipe live?
> I'll do a hose Bibb outside live in a second. Fun times


We don't have many exposed to the elements hose bib threads here, but have done my share of gascocks that way


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## HonestPlumb (Jan 25, 2015)

Not quite sure why no one uses a ProPress tool ? Does not matter the volume of water, it works ! As opposed to bread, which I used 20 years ago, or a Jet Sweat that I used up until a year ago. Once I was introduced to the ProPress, I was amazed ! Besides the fact it can be used for running Pex tubing. I like running copper more often though. It is not cheap for the tool and batteries, alone. Add a set of Propress Jaws for 1/2" to 1 1/4" copper, it will add another $1,000 + . For Pex tubing, different types of fittings have different sets of jaws also. The time saved is incredible, plus never again, "water problems" !!


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## Calrooter (Feb 7, 2017)

Once upon a time... Fixing a copper pipe in the middle of the night I ask the resident for a slice of bread, after maybe 5 minutes she gave me a turkey sandwich... Lovely lady!!!!


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

HonestPlumb said:


> Not quite sure why no one uses a ProPress tool ? Does not matter the volume of water, it works ! As opposed to bread, which I used 20 years ago, or a Jet Sweat that I used up until a year ago. Once I was introduced to the ProPress, I was amazed ! Besides the fact it can be used for running Pex tubing. I like running copper more often though. It is not cheap for the tool and batteries, alone. Add a set of Propress Jaws for 1/2" to 1 1/4" copper, it will add another $1,000 + . For Pex tubing, different types of fittings have different sets of jaws also. The time saved is incredible, plus never again, "water problems" !!


Some use a propress. The o.p. was about dealing with water while sweating.


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## HonestPlumb (Jan 25, 2015)

rwh- Sorry, my mistake. Yes I too, remember the days of asking the customer for some white bread. They say "If you are hungry, I would be happy to make you something". Then the look on some of their faces when you attempt to explain it.


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## jnohs (Jan 27, 2012)

Propress


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

jnohs said:


> Propress


Amateur 

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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

rjbphd said:


> Amateur
> 
> Sent from my SM-G386T using Tapatalk


Agreeeeeee


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## slate658 (Mar 6, 2017)

pro.press now but before that I would walk in the door and shut water down and start draining before anything else, usually the pipes would be pretty much empty when ready to tie in new work. also you can pull a trap in the piping by removing a strap or two and pull the copper down and wedge it with a fitting or short copper piece. ive used that trick a time or two have every thing fitted and right before soldering pull a trap and go quick.


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