# Picking a Sawzall???



## bdp1999

I'm about to invest in a Sawzall and wanted to get some opinions on which brands and models I should invest in. It going to be my personal Sawzall and I'll just be doing a few jobs around the house and on rental property. The most solid cutting I'll be doing is on a cast iron drain stack. Other than that it will mostly be drywall and wood. Can anyone help me out on pick out a brand and model with the right amp and voltage that can get these jobs done? 

Thanks


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## SlickRick

bdp1999 said:


> I'm about to invest in a Sawzall and wanted to get some opinions on which brands and models I should invest in. It going to be my personal Sawzall and I'll just be doing a few jobs around the house and on rental property. The most solid cutting I'll be doing is on a cast iron drain stack. Other than that it will mostly be drywall and wood. Can anyone help me out on pick out a brand and model with the right amp and voltage that can get these jobs done?
> 
> Thanks


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## RW Plumbing

Get a Harbor freight one. Don't be a sucker and pay more for a milwaukee or something. Harbor freight is just as good.


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## bdp1999

what's so great about a Harbor Freight?


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## plumbpro

me thinks this is not a plumber


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## plumbpro

sorry, I just read his intro. 

I would not ever recommend a sawzall to cut cast iron.


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## rocksteady

Cast iron goes much faster with a grinder and diamond wheel if you can't get the snap cutters on it.





Paul


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## Lifer

The first tool i ever bought was a Porter Cable Recip saw .. beat the hell out of it at work for years and now it's home in the garage where it gets the occasional work out .. 14 yrs and counting .. Never let me down.

Lifer...


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## bdp1999

Yeah, but snap cutters cost so much more money.


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## bdp1999

That Porter Cable Recip saw doesn't sound bad!


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## bdp1999

I'm cutting to take out of the wall, not to install. I'm using PVC for a replacement.


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## plumbpro

bdp1999 said:


> I'm cutting to take out of the wall, not to install. I'm using PVC for a replacement.


I would sooner use a hammer and a cold chisel to snap the cast iron, rather than a sawzall. A grinder with a diamond abrasive blade would be my top choice to cut cast iron that cannot be snapped for lack of space. 
You will be there all day and spend thousands of dollars on saw blades using a reciprocating saw, well not really, but close.


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## RW Plumbing

Depending on the size and condition of the cast, it doesn't take THAT long to cut with a recip saw. That is only if you're doing 1 or 2 cuts. Doing an entire job is suicide you will lose your rear end in hours. Get a cast iron snapper. It seems a plumber would know this.....


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## plumbpro

RW Plumbing said:


> Depending on the size and condition of the cast, it doesn't take THAT long to cut with a recip saw. That is only if you're doing 1 or 2 cuts. Doing an entire job is suicide you will lose your rear end in hours. Get a cast iron snapper. It seems a plumber would know this.....


He just wants to make a couple of cuts, it would be faster to use a hammer and chisel over a sawzall. I always use a snapper, unless I need to use a grinder. I personally wouldn't use a hammer/chisel or a sawzall to make a cast iron cut.


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## Bayside500

hell, a real man uses a cable saw to cut cast iron, just gotta be quick about it and don't stop until it is done cutting......

:whistling2:


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## rocksteady

Lifer said:


> The first tool i ever bought was a Porter Cable Recip saw .. beat the hell out of it at work for years and now it's home in the garage where it gets the occasional work out .. 14 yrs and counting .. Never let me down.
> 
> Lifer...


My corded recip. saw is also a Porter Cable and I think I've had it for about the same amount of time. It's been on my truck the entire time and has worked every time without a single problem. I would definately recomend it.








Paul


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## pauliplumber

If you only cut CI a few times a year, a diamond grit blade in a sawzall will work fine. Most CI they will cut quick, if it's quality thick CI it might take take 10-15min a cut at most. It's also a little safer way to cut older CI in rough shape as it can split with a snapper. Lenox makes a good CI cutting sawzall blade.

I like Milwaukee's sawzall the best.


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## Tommy plumber

I like and am happy with my Milwaukee tools, sawzall, hammer drill, circular saw, etc.

I have heard mixed reviews about Harbor Freaight electric tools. With regard to cutting cast iron, my sawzall with the grit blade works fine. I also have a grinder with a diamond blade which makes short work of cast iron (but I use a full face shield and a particle mask when cutting C.I. with grinder.)


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## easttexasplumb

I like to use a grinder to cut C.I. them blades for saw will work. Your money will go farther with the grinder, thoses blades only make a couple cuts.


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## PlungerJockey

I'd say if you intend to get a corded saw, one is as good as another.

If you are getting a cordless, I'd go Milwaukee. I've had several Dewalts and finally got tired of battery issues. I have not had any problems with my Milwaukee tools. Their tools also seem more solid. The Dewalts seem hollow in comparision.


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## plbgbiz

Faster is not always better when cutting cast. The condition of the pipe and location have to be considered. A grinder is fast but not best for every situation.

Corded Porter Cable is my favorite.


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## greenscoutII

I'm a big believer in an angle grinder for cutting cast if I can't get a snap cutter on it.

That said, I've cut a bunch of cast with a Sawzall in places where sparks flying from the grinder would be too dangerous. What I _don't_ believe in are the grit blades, even the diamond ones. A guy could make a career out of cutting a piece of 4" service weight with one of those abrasive blades.

I swear by the Lennox or Milwaukee cobalt tooth demo blades. I think "Torch" is what Milwaukee calls theirs. Get the 14 tpi ones. Yes, you'll burn up about one blade per cut on CI that's in good condition, but you'll get it done in this life time.

As far as selecting a reciprocating saw, a guy can't go wrong with a Milwaukee or a Porter-Cable tiger. The PC will shake the hell out of you, but it has so much power a guy would think it's powered by a 7.3 litre turbo diesel.


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## Tommy plumber

I have used diamond grit sawzall blades and regular grit blades. The diamond one seemed to take a long time. The reg. grit sawzall blade went through C.I. fairly quickly.

Next time I'll buy the one you recommend GreenScout, the Torch Cobalt. There's less dust w/ sawzall than with grinder. I'm tasting the iron in my mouth if I don't wear a particle mask.


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## greenscoutII

Tommy plumber said:


> I have used diamond grit sawzall blades and regular grit blades. The diamond one seemed to take a long time. The reg. grit sawzall blade went through C.I. fairly quickly.
> 
> Next time I'll buy the one you recommend GreenScout, the Torch Cobalt. There's less dust w/ sawzall than with grinder. I'm tasting the iron in my mouth if I don't wear a particle mask.


Oh yeah, the dust...

I forgot about rust boogers.......:laughing:


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## Redwood

The best reciprocating saws say Sawzall on the box....:thumbup:

I cut cast iron a lot of different ways but if I'm using a Sawzall I'll use Lenox Gold Blades...:thumbup:


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## Epox

plumbpro said:


> He just wants to make a couple of cuts, it would be faster to use a hammer and chisel over a sawzall. I always use a snapper, unless I need to use a grinder. I personally wouldn't use a hammer/chisel or a sawzall to make a cast iron cut.


Totally agree, I use a dewalt grinder with diamond blade. Melts through like butter. Just be sure you have eye protection.


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## gitnerdun

Milwaukee is the only one for me. I don't think anyone mentioned it has a 3/4 inch stroke, very short in comparison to some with more than a inch. The short stroke allows us to cut pipes that are close to a wall or something else. The long stroke may cut faster, but if you are up against a tight spot it'll bang into it.

I got the cute little hackzall last year and use it more than anything else then comes the corded sawzall for the cast iron. For cutting cast use the 14tpi or grit blades when a grinder is not an option.

Bob


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## bdp1999

Is there a certain ampage or voltage I should get? I've been looking at the milwaukee and ridgid(lifetime warranty), let me know. Thanks for all the great answers. I know starting to think that I should get both and maybe even pickup a used soil pipe cutter for somewhere.


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## plbgbiz

You won't be disappointed with either of these...

http://www.portercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=15153

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/tools/...3-amp-orbital-super-sawzall-recip-saw/6536-21


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## Tommy plumber

bdp1999 said:


> Is there a certain ampage or voltage I should get? I've been looking at the milwaukee and ridgid(lifetime warranty), let me know. Thanks for all the great answers. I know starting to think that I should get both and maybe even pickup a used soil pipe cutter for somewhere.


 



Don't get the battery, opt for the electric. Milwaukee will cost you around $ 100- $ 125. And Milwaukee is a quality tool. The only battery tool I own is the 18 Volt Milwaukee screw gun, everything else I use is electric.


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## plumber666

Milwaukee Super Sawzall. The good one with the removable cord. Spend the bucks and have a tool to last a lifetime. Mines 18 years old, never needed a repair, just buggered the cord once. As for snap cutters being expensive, you're a plumber, for gods sakes. We use those.


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## Epox

I returned my Dewalt sawzall today to home depot. I bought it in August and already the blade latches are out of it. 6 months is a bunch of crap. They told me go get a new one and done a trade out but kept my receipt. When this one goes out I'm looking for maybe a Porter Cable or Milwaukee Super Sawzall or something. Tell you what it gripes me to buy supposedly good tools to have them dump on me in a few months. The return dude said well they don't make tools like they used to. I said no s***.


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## SlickRick

The OP will not be returning.


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## RW Plumbing

slickrick said:


> The OP will not be returning.


Good. There are many tool review forums for hacks and homeowners.


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## JK949

Serious question, most seem to be either 3/4 stroke or 1 1/4. Longer or shorter and why?


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## Redwood

JK949 said:


> Serious question, most seem to be either 3/4 stroke or 1 1/4. Longer or shorter and why?


The long stroke makes it easier to bend the blade tips on stuff behind what you are cutting or sometimes land the tip of the blade inside the pipe...

But it cuts a bit faster...

Unless you bang the blade...:laughing:


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## JK949

Redwood said:


> The long stroke makes it easier to bend the blade tips on stuff behind what you are cutting or sometimes land the tip of the blade inside the pipe...
> 
> But it cuts a bit faster...
> 
> Unless you bang the blade...:laughing:


Hmm, my ridgid one hand fuego is my go-to for jobs inside walls. My full size only gets used outside and for reckless demo work, which isn't all that ofter. Plus, Milwaukee increased their stroke length for their 12 amp saw, so i may no longer have a choice.


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## plumbpro

plumber666 said:


> Milwaukee Super Sawzall. The good one with the removable cord. Spend the bucks and have a tool to last a lifetime. Mines 18 years old, never needed a repair, just buggered the cord once.* As for snap cutters being expensive, you're a plumber, for gods sakes.* We use those.


They are expensive if bought new, but in all reality, I drag mine around under a house all the time. They look used after the first cut. You can buy a pair of ridgid that is adequate enough for what I do for about $100 on ebay.


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## JK949

Anyone try the Hilti corded models? The WSR 1000 is only a bit more than a Milwaukee or Porter Cable.


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## user4

I've owned most of them, the current one is a Hilti WSR1250, it has lasted the longest.


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## JK949

Is the vibration reduction on a whole different level?


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## sikxsevn

I've used the hilti model before, think it was a wsr 1250 or something along the lines of that. It's extremely powerful, but also extremely heavy and difficult, if not impossible, to use one handed. The whole hand trigger has a little safety on it that makes it difficult to let go of the trigger without dropping the saw if your using it one handed. It also has a longer stroke than most saws, and takes a little longer than most to stop once you let go of the trigger. It's a great saw if you plan on doing a lot of demo work and can hold it with both hands, but for cutting pipe and unistrut and rod, I would go another route, like the milawakee super sawzall, for example


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## mialle30

I would use a Bruce Lee karate chop


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## Widdershins

I bought the Milwaukee V28 cordless 4 years ago and haven't looked back since -- The V28 Right Angle drill is a great tool as well.

I plumbed a 4 bath house on Vashon Island last spring using all cordless tools -- I think the only things I plugged in on that job were the 3 bay battery charger, the radio and the microwave.


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## yodathlete

In the beginning there was talk about cutting cast with a hammer and cold chisel I seen one guy cut 4 inch in 6 wacks got was really good with his hands and had a really good chisel as for sawzalls I like the porter cable battery and a Milwaukee cordless


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## ckoch407

Real mofos use handsaws.


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## tungsten plumb

I have a ridgid one handed recip saw and im like a surgeon with that thing. It had to be made for plumbers :thumbsup:


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## Baber

Wasn't Porter Cable bought out by DeWalt? They look the same.


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## U666A

Baber said:


> Wasn't Porter Cable bought out by DeWalt? They look the same.


In Canada, I'm told dewalt was bought out by black and decker, the pecker wrecker.


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## jeffreyplumber

Black and decker owns dewalt price pfister, kwickset lock. dont know about porter cable. but they owned these other companys for over a decade


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## Marlin

I've used a bunch of different ones. Milwaukee is my favorite so far. I've had a 15amp one about two years now and it's still going strong. The only thing I don't like is that you can't cut 3" PVC with the short metal blades. The one I have at home I got used, it is about 15 years old and seen plenty of use. I had to change the brushes once, otherwise it hasn't stopped. My father is a carpenter and has only used Sawzalls he never broke one, only replaced them with newer more powerful models. He's on his third one in 33 years. I believe Milwaukee also has the best warranty going.
Before the Milwaukee I had a two Porter Cables. One lasted about two years, the other a year and a half. Both were repaired during that time before they broke beyond repair. The Porter Cables on the other trucks had a similar lifespan, 2-3 years. One I know was about 6 years old, that was on a service truck and wasn't used much. 
The DeWalts I think are actually decent for what you pay. That's what the company is buying now. They have ok power and certainly get the job done though not quite as well as the Milwaukees or Porter Cables. They're good for about a year. For $99 (cheaper on sale) it's a throwaway tool. 
I've also used Makita, Craftsman and Bosch. The Bosch I like, it feels like it's made well and handles and cuts well. I haven't used one for long enough to know how reliable they are but if they're like other Bosch tools they should hold up. Makita and Craftsman I've never owned but I've used. I don't like them at all, no power and from what I've heard they don't hold up.

Before I get accused of abusing the tools. These things go through jobs where they might get run for hours a day for a week straight and go through hundreds of blades a year. Then they occasionally get soaked and run some dirty conditions.


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## PrecisionPlumb

Buy a used Milawakee sawzall of craigslist You wont regret it


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## jeffreyplumber

Ive been happy with a millwakee. Though it sometimes will sit for 6 monthes or more because I often are working for other contractors its about 17 years old.
Question: Do you all think I should go new or have it repaired sometimes it lacks power and has a smell of burning wire. Its an unusual model as I have only seen a few like mine its a super saws all the shoe detaches and it takes an allen wrench to change the blade but its a bigger size allen screw than the others Ive seen , the smaller screw gets stripped but this one allways works good. Im starting to do my own work again and might just buy a new one. Im 54 now It would probebly be my last sawsall.


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## plbgbiz

jeffreyplumber said:


> ... its about 17 years old....
> ...Do you all think I should go new or have it repaired...


Definitely buy a new one.


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## RealLivePlumber

jeffreyplumber said:


> Ive been happy with a millwakee. Though it sometimes will sit for 6 monthes or more because I often are working for other contractors its about 17 years old.
> Question: Do you all think I should go new or have it repaired sometimes it lacks power and has a smell of burning wire. Its an unusual model as I have only seen a few like mine its a super saws all the shoe detaches and it takes an allen wrench to change the blade but its a bigger size allen screw than the others Ive seen , the smaller screw gets stripped but this one allways works good. Im starting to do my own work again and might just buy a new one. Im 54 now It would probebly be my last sawsall.


 
NO NO NO. Do not buy a new one!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Get that thing repaired. You can send it right to Milwaukee, they will fix it for you. The new ones will never last like the one you have. They are making them in China now. I am scrambling to find some old stock Hole Hawgs, The newer ones are China, and the gears in em burn up!

Besides, you cant buy one with the allen to hold the blade. They are all quick change. I think you can still buy a retrofit kit, to make it the allen clamp.


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## RealLivePlumber

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/Controls/Repair/LMR.pdf

Here is the page from Milwaukees site. They tell you what it will cost up front.


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## JK949

plbgbiz said:


> Definitely buy a new one.


Agreed! First, the bodies are made of thermoplastic, that's to prevent the tool from shocking you in the event of a short. Second, yours is probably 6.5 amp, the new entry level tool is 12 amp minimum. The allen screw thing would p!$$ me off so badly, I hate looking for a hex wrenches. Embrace the quick change, just spray some PB Corrosion stop on the assembly if it gets wet.


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## Redwood

JK949 said:


> The allen screw thing would p!$$ me off so badly, I hate looking for a hex wrenches. Embrace the quick change, just spray some PB Corrosion stop on the assembly if it gets wet.


Sorry...

I consider the quick change to be useless on a sawzall used for service plumbing...

Try Lenox Gold Blades...

You don't have to change them as often...:thumbup:


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## Marlin

RealLivePlumber said:


> I am scrambling to find some old stock Hole Hawgs, The newer ones are China, and the gears in em burn up!


 I can attest to that. I got a brand new one, had it for about two weeks on a job and the gears went. They fixed it under warranty, a month later the gears went on it again. They refuse to fix it again under warranty. The service place says it must be abuse. Calling Milwaukee directly would probably help but no one would do it and I don't have the receipts to do it myself. 




JK949 said:


> Agreed! First, the bodies are made of thermoplastic, that's to prevent the tool from shocking you in the event of a short. Second, yours is probably 6.5 amp, the new entry level tool is 12 amp minimum. The allen screw thing would p!$$ me off so badly, I hate looking for a hex wrenches. Embrace the quick change, just spray some PB Corrosion stop on the assembly if it gets wet.


Agreed. If it's an old metal one I would defiantly get rid of it. They're more shock resistant now. Cutting out old pipe I'm sure lots of us have got a little zap with a sawzall or at least got the thing wet. I always use a GFI outlet or GFI cord now. Also those old 6.5s may last forever but they take forever to cut. As for the hex wrench, try electric taping it to the cord. I do the same thing with the angle drill chuck keys. This way you always know exactly where they are. 





Redwood said:


> Sorry...
> 
> I consider the quick change to be useless on a sawzall used for service plumbing...
> 
> Try Lenox Gold Blades...
> 
> You don't have to change them as often...:thumbup:


Why don't you like the quick change? The allen screw isn't bad, it doesn't take that long to change and I wouldn't buy a new Sawzall just to get rid of it. However I often have to change between different type of blades several times on a job and I do find it faster and more convenient. The new ones also don't fit in the case with the blade on so you're at least taking it on and off once each use.


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## jeffreyplumber

Good to hear diff opinions now I definatly dont have my mind made up. I have been to the milwauki service center they do a superb job in repair I thought they were resonable in cost. Ive had many tools repaired there in Anahiem over the years just not recently. I like the quick change but for an allen screw this model is much better because its bigger it never rattles loose like the old ones did. The housing is metal but the handel is plastic its not old school all metal if it was Id keep it just as a collector item. There might be other saws but I allways recomend Milwaukee


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## Widdershins

jeffreyplumber said:


> Good to hear diff opinions now I definatly dont have my mind made up. I have been to the milwauki service center they do a superb job in repair I thought they were resonable in cost. Ive had many tools repaired there in Anahiem over the years just not recently. I like the quick change but for an allen screw this model is much better because its bigger it never rattles loose like the old ones did. The housing is metal but the handel is plastic its not old school all metal if it was Id keep it just as a collector item. There might be other saws but I allways recomend Milwaukee


 90% of the power tools on my trucks are Milwaukee tools, mostly cordless, btw.

No Hole Hawgs, though (alright, I still have 5 or 6 gathering mold in the subterranean shop, but nobody goes down there anymore).

Gawd bless the Wunderkind who invented the right angle drill with a clutch.

I still have three of the original Black and Decker Timberwolf right angle drills sitting on the shelf in my shop -- All three with low miles and they pre-date Dewalts slightly inferior takeover of the brand.

Love the clutch.


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## Redwood

Redwood said:


> Sorry...
> 
> I consider the quick change to be useless on a sawzall used for service plumbing...
> 
> Try Lenox Gold Blades...
> 
> You don't have to change them as often...:thumbup:





Marlin said:


> Why don't you like the quick change? The allen screw isn't bad, it doesn't take that long to change and I wouldn't buy a new Sawzall just to get rid of it. However I often have to change between different type of blades several times on a job and I do find it faster and more convenient. The new ones also don't fit in the case with the blade on so you're at least taking it on and off once each use.


I have both types and the quick change when you get it wet and perhaps a little drain cleaner on it, the damn thing will lock up and waste your time...
Yea I clean it oil it and mess with it regularly

The screw type is much more reliable IMHO...
Ultimately its a timesaver....


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## Widdershins

Redwood said:


> I have both types and the quick change when you get it wet and perhaps a little drain cleaner on it, the damn thing will lock up and waste your time...
> Yea I clean it oil it and mess with it regularly
> 
> The screw type is much more reliable IMHO...
> Ultimately its a timesaver....


 Gawd, and I thought I was a cranky old fart.

Spray a little bit of silicone based oil in it and it will last you a good 10 years or so.

Stay away from WD40, though, that has a tendency to harden up the grease in the gearbox.


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## Redwood

Widdershins said:


> Gawd, and I thought I was a cranky old fart.
> 
> * Spray a little bit of silicone based oil in it and it will last you a good 10 years or so.*
> 
> Stay away from WD40, though, that has a tendency to harden up the grease in the gearbox.


Not IMHO... :no:


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## U666A

The company I work for buys mostly dewalt everything except specialized tooling. They are elect/mechanical/piping/sheet metal/millwrighting/iron works etc. So I have access to any tool under the sun. They buy both 18v and 36v ( thing is a powerhouse and batts last forever) and dewalt corded as well. 

Only prob with dewalts are the quick change lever often fails prematurely.

I own a mastercraft corded (Canadian Tire Corp. House brand) with a quick change blade mechanism that is unlike any I have used before. There is a circular housing around the blade holder that is knurled and requires just a quarter turn to release the blade. It is also spring loaded so it always defaults to the closed position.

I suppose I haven't used it a tremendous amount as it is my personal saw, but it is a good saw so far and only time will tell how it gold up.

God luck with your hunt, and let us know what you cut with it the first day (everyone cuts something totally irrational with a new sawzall the first day)


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## mialle30

Milwaukee all day long


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## Airgap

7 pages of picking a sawzall?? Really?? The only thing to know is already in the thread title......:thumbsup:


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## evan

milwaukee sawzall's are def. the way to go. as for cutting cast, if you got the room, a circ saw with diamond blade works beautiful :thumbsup:


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## Plumb Bob

plumbpro said:


> I would sooner use a hammer and a cold chisel to snap the cast iron, rather than a sawzall. A grinder with a diamond abrasive blade would be my top choice to cut cast iron that cannot be snapped for lack of space.
> You will be there all day and spend thousands of dollars on saw blades using a reciprocating saw, well not really, but close.


You just have to use the right blade! A diamond sawzall blade cuts CI just fine. I do it all the time. I work around lots of fragile cast iron in tight places and this method works well.

Best sawzall is Milwaukee super sawzall 11 amp, a close second is Makita cordless 18 volt lithium ion (it is awsome and it cuts CI)


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## Ruudplumber

corded: milwaukee sawzall hands down..... cordless: v28 milwaukee..... the cordless bandsaw cuts cast like butter.


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## jeffreyplumber

Havent cut cast much w sawsall. I use a 4 1/2 grinder. or snaps.

What kind of blades cut cast on sawsall? Expensive diamond grit?


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## Plumberman

jeffreyplumber said:


> Havent cut cast much w sawsall. I use a 4 1/2 grinder. or snaps.
> 
> What kind of blades cut cast on sawsall? Expensive diamond grit?


Black carbide blade will do it. They are a little high, I havent used a diamond sawzall blade before.


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## Plumb Bob

jeffreyplumber said:


> Havent cut cast much w sawsall. I use a 4 1/2 grinder. or snaps.
> 
> What kind of blades cut cast on sawsall? Expensive diamond grit?


I use milwaukee blades. Carbide or diamond. Diamond blades are around $15 each. Carbide are cheaper but diamond work way better and worth the extra $$.


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## Redwood

jeffreyplumber said:


> What kind of blades cut cast on sawsall? Expensive diamond grit?


I use Lenox Gold Blades when I cut with the sawzall.


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## user4

Porta band works on CI soil pipe a helluva lot better than a sawzall.


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## Redwood

Killertoiletspider said:


> Porta band works on CI soil pipe a helluva lot better than a sawzall.


Tough to use inside a wall though...


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## ILPlumber

Redwood said:


> Tough to use inside a wall though...


That's what the sawzall is for.

Wall removal for the porta-band.....:laughing:


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## Faust

Just picked myself up a 15amp Milwaukee Super Sawzall, just looking at this thing gets my blood bubbling, I want to cut stuff :laughing:




































:thumbup:


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## 1703

Nice...........leopard print, that is.:thumbup:


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## Widdershins

> Just picked myself up a 15amp Milwaukee Super Sawzall, just looking at this thing gets my blood bubbling, I want to cut stuff :laughing:


 I honestly cannot remember the last time I used a corded sawzall.


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## ILPlumber

Widdershins said:


> I honestly cannot remember the last time I used a corded sawzall.


When you wanted to cut something much more quickly.......


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## Widdershins

ILPlumber said:


> When you wanted to cut something much more quickly.......


 That's never been a problem with the 



.

Multi-bay chargers, plenty of batteries and a power inverter on a timer assures I always have charged batteries for the tools and never a dead battery in the van.

Even my right angle drills are cordless.


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## ILPlumber

I use the same sawzalls. The batteries sucketh in cold weather after a few months of use.

The corded version, with more amperage and longer stroke, cuts circles around the v28


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## Plumb Bob

Widdershins said:


> I honestly cannot remember the last time I used a corded sawzall.


I cant remember the last time I used one either. My corded milwaukees have been in a storage locker for a couple of years. Makita 18 volt Lithium ion kicks butt!! :thumbup:


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## Widdershins

> I use the same sawzalls. The batteries sucketh in cold weather after a few months of use.


 I've heard others complain of that as well. 

Never been a problem for me, though -- Then again, I learned way back in the days of Ni-Cad batteries to bring my batteries inside the house at night if it's going to be cold.



> The corded version, with more amperage and longer stroke, cuts circles around the v28


 I gotta disagree -- The difference in stroke between the 15 amp model and the V28 model is only an 1/8 of an inch, which is compensated for by the V28's 3000 strokes per minute, as opposed to the 15 amp models 2800 strokes per minute.

Aside from the convenience of cordless, I gotta say having the motor stop the instant you take your finger off of the trigger is another strong selling point.

>shrugs<

To each their own, I guess.


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## U666A

Widdershins said:


> Aside from the convenience of cordless, I gotta say having the motor stop the instant you take your finger off of the trigger is another strong selling point.
> 
> >shrugs<
> 
> To each their own, I guess.



Touché! Excellent point WS!

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


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## rocksteady

Widdershins said:


> I honestly cannot remember the last time I used a corded sawzall.


I had some galv. kitchen waste lines to remove last week in a 18" tall crawl space. I used my corded Porter Cable even though it was a bit more hassle to drag it under because the last thing I wanted to do was crawl back out for a battery. Plus, compared to my cordless Dewalt, the Porter Cable is way faster.






Paul


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## plbgbiz

rocksteady said:


> ...because the last thing I wanted to do was crawl back out for a battery. Plus, compared to my cordless Dewalt, the Porter Cable is way faster....


Cordless recip saws are no match for the corded versions of almost any brand. There is a lot of power being sacrificed for trying to take the "work" out of the work.

I see a lot of time wasted over battery issues and weak saws that would have been better spent just running a cord to start with.


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## Redwood

I'm going to agree with the posters that say when it comes to the heavy work bring out the corded sawzall...

Batteries are great for a few light cuts and saving on the time spent stretching a cord...

But when it's time to get some serious work done its time to plug in and Git-R-Done...

The last apprentice I had working with me came walking into a Galvanized Drain Repipe job with the cordless sawzall. I told him bring in the other one and he argued the point...

So I let him have at it... Telling him what I wanted cut out...
I went and picked up the materials and returned he was still going at it with 3 batteries and a multi port charger...:laughing:

I went out in the truck and ate my lunch while he struggled, then went back in with the corded sawzall...

Slapped him upside the head, told him get going with a real saw, because I was coming behind him slinging pipe and he better be out of my way...:furious::furious:

It was fun watching him work hard to cut out the old pipe in time...:laughing:

I have to admit I did push myself a little harder than normal to put the pressure on and skipped a few hangers and such figuring i'd be on him sooner and I could go back to them...:laughing:

If he hadn't been such a smartazz he wouldn't have missed lunch...:whistling2:


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## Widdershins

I dunno, guys -- I've Plumbed entire homes with nothing but cordless tools and hand tools and without any of the grief some of you describe.

And with the inverter system I have in my van, I don't even have to plug in chargers.


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## d78coots

Lifer said:


> The first tool i ever bought was a Porter Cable Recip saw .. beat the hell out of it at work for years and now it's home in the garage where it gets the occasional work out .. 14 yrs and counting .. Never let me down.
> 
> Lifer...


My coworker has one of those. Its a beast.


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