# Gorlitz 68HD



## DesertOkie

Here are some pics of my Gorlitz 68HD.


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## ChrisConnor

Where'd you get that stabilizer bracket on the back?


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## DesertOkie

I got it refurbished so it came with it. We have welded them on ours before. They come in real handy when doing roof vents.


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## ChrisConnor

That's the reason I bought the K-60, so I wouldn't have to do roof vent's that way anymore.


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## Will

IS there a way to see a close up of the motor and gear box? Or is it sealed/covered?


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## ChrisConnor

Will said:


> IS there a way to see a close up of the motor and gear box? Or is it sealed/covered?


Sure, but it'll cost you a video of the Electric Eel Model N in action.


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## DesertOkie

what he said.


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## Will

ChrisConnor said:


> Sure, but it'll cost you a video of the Electric Eel Model N in action.



I could make that happen, only problem is my camera is broke.....


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## DesertOkie

ChrisConnor said:


> That's the reason I bought the K-60, so I wouldn't have to do roof vent's that way anymore.


That must be hell to run long lines.


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## ChrisConnor

DesertOkie said:


> That must be hell to run long lines.



Really, it's not so bad, Not as convenient as a continuous cable, but it works nicely. I've been impressed by it's root ripping. I'd rather do it from the roof than pull the toilet and risk a mess.


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## AlbacoreShuffle

DesertOkie said:


> I got it refurbished so it came with it. We have welded them on ours before. They come in real handy when doing roof vents.


You haul that heavy SOB on a roof ?
Your way more manly than me.
I'd sell a clean out before Id put that sucker on a roof.


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## ChrisConnor

No, you lay the machine on it's back and run the cable up the ladder, then down the vent.


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## DesertOkie

That's a 300# ladder, that means I can go up the ladder with some change in my pocket and steel toe boots and be safe, anything extra is pushing it. I'm not saying I'm not manly enough to carry it up the ladder of course.:laughing:


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## DesertOkie

ChrisConnor said:


> No, you lay the machine on it's back and run the cable up the ladder, then down the vent.


Why did ya ruin it. You should have told him you carry it up there too.:laughing:


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## AlbacoreShuffle

ChrisConnor said:


> No, you lay the machine on it's back and run the cable up the ladder, then down the vent.


If you hit a hard blockage , how do you get any torque on the cable with out having the cable twist up on you ?


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## DesertOkie

AlbacoreShuffle said:


> If you hit a hard blockage , how do you get any torque on the cable with out having the cable twist up on you ?


Mad skills and lots of practice. That's on reason I run the pvc up the ladder. the weak point without that is the length up the ladder. If you keep the line straight it will flip in the cage before it gets you. It still sucks but better than wrapping yourself up.:thumbup:


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## Will

You operate that from the ground or from the roof? Does it take two people?


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## ChrisConnor

DesertOkie said:


> Mad skills and lots of practice. That's on reason I run the pvc up the ladder. the weak point without that is the length up the ladder. If you keep the line straight it will flip in the cage before it gets you. It still sucks but better than wrapping yourself up.:thumbup:



When I started doing it, we did it with two men for safety. We didn't use a pipe when two men were on the job, just run it between the rungs of the two pieces of the ladder. 

I knew a guy who connected a long piece of electric flex conduit to the front of his machine and he would leave the machine outside and pass that through the bathroom window or up to the roof. 

How do you get the cable back into the machine, climb down and put the auto feed to reverse, then climb back up or just pull it out and throw it to the ground.


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## DesertOkie

Will said:


> You operate that from the ground or from the roof? Does it take two people?


From the roof. I run a foot pedal, 1 cord from power to pedal, 1 cord from pedal to machine. 

I run it in by hand pulling out of the cage and pushing down the vent. When I go through a "tough" spot I go back and forth till it's smooth. When the total line is clean I pull back with the retriever, but have it loose so I can go back in if I feel anything.

With the pipe you can also push it back into the cage without the retriever. if your cable is not too soupy. 

I can't stand 2 man runs. I want control of the power and the cable. The guy who rides with me would stuff the cable back in the cage anytime I pulled it out to rerun a spot. Drove me nuts I would make him go inside and watch the tub or toilet.


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## Dun' Right

It probably works fine and all, but I think I could pull a toilet, run the line, and reset the toilet in the time it takes to set all that up. Just my opinion. I can see how it would save a guy's back from dragging a machine into the basement.


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## AssTyme

Dun' Right said:


> *It probably works fine and all, but I think I could pull a toilet, run the line, and reset the toilet in the time it takes to set all that up. Just my opinion.* I can see how it would save a guy's back from dragging a machine into the basement.




What he said^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


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## Will

Overall it looks like a solid machine that would be easy to maintain. One thing that looks out of place on it is the wheels. Looks like with those little wheels the machine would be a royal PITA to move around. 

What is the weight of the machine with out the cable? Gorlitz's website says 255 lbs, is that with cable or without?


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## DesertOkie

Can you guys clean the line well from the flange? I can get the line as clean as I can from a C/O. Can you guys go 130' plus through the flange? For me the flange is the last resort, I don't like the mess or the smaller machine I need inside. 

I think the 68HD weights in at 275 with 160-170' of cable. The hard tires do suck if you look at the vent pic you'll see the air up tires I use. Be careful when you get them if you get them to big they will make the machine a little "rocky" when running on hard surfaces. They make some with a flat tread instead of the rounded like a bike tire.


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## Dun' Right

DesertOkie said:


> Can you guys clean the line well from the flange? I can get the line as clean as I can from a C/O. Can you guys go 130' plus through the flange? For me the flange is the last resort, I don't like the mess or the smaller machine I need inside.
> 
> I think the 68HD weights in at 275 with 160-170' of cable. The hard tires do suck if you look at the vent pic you'll see the air up tires I use. Be careful when you get them if you get them to big they will make the machine a little "rocky" when running on hard surfaces. They make some with a flat tread instead of the rounded like a bike tire.


I have a general speedrooter that I use inside of the house. Closed drum so really there isn't much mess. Its smaller compared to most machines, and will fit into most small bathrooms. I usually set the toilet in the tub while I'm running it. Never had a clog I couldn't open from a flange.


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## DesertOkie

Dun' Right said:


> I have a general speedrooter that I use inside of the house. Closed drum so really there isn't much mess. Its smaller compared to most machines, and will fit into most small bathrooms. I usually set the toilet in the tub while I'm running it. Never had a clog I couldn't open from a flange.


The one I looked at had 100', that wouldn't cut it here. I do like the closed reel. Where does the poo water go? Do you have much problems with rusty cable?


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## easttexasplumb

DesertOkie said:


> The one I looked at had 100', that wouldn't cut it here. I do like the closed reel. Where does the poo water go? Do you have much problems with rusty cable?


 
You can add more cable to the machine, and there is a small hole in the back of the drum to drain the poo water.


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## Dun' Right

DesertOkie said:


> The one I looked at had 100', that wouldn't cut it here. I do like the closed reel. Where does the poo water go? Do you have much problems with rusty cable?


Yeah, I have 100' of cable. Usually able to get most clogs around here with 100'. Poo water goes down the hole! lol I usually vet vac the toilet before I pull it. Once the line is open, the water gets flushed right back down the toilet. 

Cable doesn't get too rusty if you clean it and oil it.


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## Hillside

I use Saran wrap on my 68hd and go50 drums, I tried the covers but they are crap, they rub and hold sewer water


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## Will

Anyone ever use the Gorlitz 62?


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## bizzybeeplumbin

I love my drum machine and used to run it from the roof, almost like pictured above, but without the pipe. But, in this case of the roof top vent cleaning, I go to the k60, can run 150' in no time. I dont use that machine for anything but roof tops. 20 minutes and its done.

But, as I said before, drum machine rocks in every other way


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## DesertOkie

bizzybeeplumbin said:


> I love my drum machine and used to run it from the roof, almost like pictured above, but without the pipe. But, in this case of the roof top vent cleaning, I go to the k60, can run 150' in no time. I dont use that machine for anything but roof tops. 20 minutes and its done.
> 
> But, as I said before, drum machine rocks in every other way



The machine looks cool. How long are the sections?


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## Will

Anyone ever here about this company? I just got off the phone with them and they are pretty much the same as Gorlitz. Only difference is the moter and pulleys. Everything thing else is pretty much the same. 

http://www.coastmanufacturing.com/


I got a video of the Model N in action now, but I have no clue on how to post a video on here.


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## ChrisConnor

Will said:


> Anyone ever here about this company? I just got off the phone with them and they are pretty much the same as Gorlitz. Only difference is the moter and pulleys. Everything thing else is pretty much the same.
> 
> http://www.coastmanufacturing.com/
> 
> 
> I got a video of the Model N in action now, but I have no clue on how to post a video on here.


You can upload it to youtube and link it here.

The Coastmaster machines are similar to Gorlitz, but I don't think their big machine doesn't have a gearbox like the GO 68 HD. It's more like a beefed up GO 68.


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## DesertOkie

Will said:


> Anyone ever here about this company? I just got off the phone with them and they are pretty much the same as Gorlitz. Only difference is the moter and pulleys. Everything thing else is pretty much the same.
> 
> http://www.coastmanufacturing.com/
> 
> 
> I got a video of the Model N in action now, but I have no clue on how to post a video on here.


I think for 3-4 hundred more you can get the real deal.

http://www.westerndrainsupply.com/s...ucts_id=116&osCsid=7ujts20f8lq14tlqe0osu4ej20


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## Will

There both priced with in a 100 bucks of each other. The Gorlitz 68HD has a 3/4 hp motor with a gearbox, the TM 750 (coast manufacturing) has a 3/4 hp motor but is on a pulley instead of a gearbox. I'd think the Gearbox would produce more power and torque, but the pulley would be more reliable. Other than that they are pretty much the same machine.


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## DesertOkie

Never had a problem with the gear box and I have used some old POS machines.

You might find out what extra reels and freight cost for your totals. Gorlitz and western drain are in cali, I'm not sure about the other one.


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## tungsten plumb

Will said:


> Anyone ever use the Gorlitz 62?


A buddy of mine uses the 62 for all his drains because of the 3 baskets. He swears by the thing.


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## Will

DesertOkie said:


> Never had a problem with the gear box and I have used some old POS machines.
> 
> You might find out what extra reels and freight cost for your totals. Gorlitz and western drain are in cali, I'm not sure about the other one.



There was a guy on another Forum that had some issues with his Gorlitz 62 geared motor giving him problems. The machine was 6 months old and Gorlitz wouldn't stand behind there machine and warranty it(at least that is what he said.) I believe he was running 11/16" cable in the reels when it should have been 5/8", 1/2", or 3/8", so maybe he overloaded the motor and that is why he had issues. 

Coast Manufacturing is in Eugene, OR.


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## ChrisConnor

Will said:


> There was a guy on another Forum that had some issues with his Gorlitz 62 geared motor giving him problems. The machine was 6 months old and Gorlitz wouldn't stand behind there machine and warranty it(at least *that is what he said*.) I believe he was running 11/16" cable in the reels when it should have been 5/8", 1/2", or 3/8", so maybe he overloaded the motor and that is why he had issues.



I think Gorlitz told him that the 11/16" was OK in that machine, Mike's failure _might_ not be a Gorlitz issue, it could have been operator error. I'd be curious to know if the weight differences between 200' of of 5/8" (in 100' baskets) would be any less than 150' 11/16" (in 75' baskets). I don't think the weight would be significant enough to overload the motor.

I had a friend whose machine quit working after six months because the extension cord he used wasn't heavy enough.


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## Will

ChrisConnor said:


> I think Gorlitz told him that the 11/16" was OK in that machine, Mike's failure _might_ not be a Gorlitz issue, it could have been operator error. I'd be curious to know if the weight differences between 200' of of 5/8" (in 100' baskets) would be any less than 150' 11/16" (in 75' baskets). I don't think the weight would be significant enough to overload the motor.
> 
> I had a friend whose machine quit working after six months because the extension cord he used wasn't heavy enough.


I believe 3/4" hollow core is around a pound a foot. Atleast that is what they told me when I talked to Coast Manufacturing. So a reel of 150' of 3/4 cable would be 150 lbs. Not sure what the 11/16" and 5/8" weight.

Kinda figured there was probably something else going on there with Mike's GO62. Motors don't fry in less than 6 months unless something happened(operator error).


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## Will

http://www.gorlitz.com/images/price-lists.pdf

100' of 5/8" = 65 lbs
75' of 11/16" = 60 lbs
150' of 11/16" = 120 lbs


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## ChrisConnor

Will said:


> http://www.gorlitz.com/images/price-lists.pdf
> 
> 100' of 5/8" = 65 lbs
> 75' of 11/16" = 60 lbs
> 150' of 11/16" = 120 lbs


Yep, looks like the weights are just about perfectly equal for his application. 

1lb a foot is about right. 100' of 3/4" hollow core is 99lbs according to UPS.


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## easttexasplumb

The coasts are good machines. We ran Spartan .66 mag cable in the machine. A few cons are open reel, open motor, long machine, if you flip the switch from forward to reverse while motor is engaged it's fried. We ordered with no cable feeder too and installed Spartan feeders on them. We made the machines longer but, easier to load and unload by welding a U shaped bracket to the front of the machine.


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## retired rooter

DesertOkie said:


> Why did ya ruin it. You should have told him you carry it up there too.:laughing:


 when I was young and dumb I used to break machine down and take body of machine on roof ,then haul up EMPTY reel put it together and pull cable to roof .Run down stack and do it again backward VERY STUPID, thats why I am broke down now


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## Hillside

I've got 197' of 3/4 hollow core in my 68hd at all times, and an extra reel of 150' at my place, Thing is a beast, I love it, even picked up a backup one in case of repairs, i'm gutting and cleaning out the van in the next few days and I'll throw it on a scale, thing sucks if you have to bring it in a house, gravel or steps though, every stoppage gets fixed with this or a shovel


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## ChrisConnor

Why so much on the reel all the time, wouldn't adding an extra reel when necessary be easier on your back?


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## tungsten plumb

HillsidePlumbco said:


> I've got 197' of 3/4 hollow core in my 68hd at all times, and an extra reel of 150' at my place, Thing is a beast, I love it, even picked up a backup one in case of repairs, i'm gutting and cleaning out the van in the next few days and I'll throw it on a scale, thing sucks if you have to bring it in a house, gravel or steps though, every stoppage gets fixed with this or a shovel


You must be in some rural area in California. Here in the bay area 197' would be major overkill. I still haven't had to go over 125' yet on a mainline stoppage.


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## Hillside

I'm in over 150' multiple times a week, some of the houses,condos & apartments around here in (Palos verdes estates, rancho palos verdes and rolling hills estates) are huge multi-million dollar homes and super deep with no access, I get them up and running at the time and usually sell the job, sometimes there is a house on a hill that has been built for 70 years and there was no house below before and now there is, I run into a lot of customers with there sewers running into there neighbors yard all the time


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## tungsten plumb

HillsidePlumbco said:


> I'm in over 150' multiple times a week, some of the houses,condos & apartments around here in (Palos verdes estates, rancho palos verdes and rolling hills estates) are huge multi-million dollar homes and super deep with no access, I get them up and running at the time and usually sell the job, sometimes there is a house on a hill that has been built for 70 years and there was no house below before and now there is, I run into a lot of customers with there sewers running into there neighbors yard all the time


I see where you would need the extra cables. Here in San Jose most of the homes were built in the earlier 70's or later so they're more of the subdivision type of home so the runs are generally 40 - 75 feet to the city connection. 

There are some areas that are exceptions in some of the surrounding areas but for the most part you could get by with a 100' of cable. A buddy of mine used a General Wire Sewermatic with 75' of 5/8 cable and very rarely came across a line he couldn't reach.I guess when it comes to drain cleaning were pretty lucky but our prices suffer because any handy hack with a k400 from home depot with 75' of cable can clear almost any line that's not a root blockage :furious:


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## Will

Too those using the GO 68HD, do y'all run one 150' cable or do y'all use them in 3 50' sections?


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## DesertOkie

I ran a 140 with a 25 extra section. I can't remember if I started out that way or it was because of cutting and adding. I got used to it so I still do it like that. I do prefer my extra basket in 40 foot sections. 

If you run the retriever tight the more couplings the more issues with bearings.


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## Will

Are you running 11/16" or 3/4" hollow core?


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## deerslayer

Nice machine but I am sure glad we don't use em! I will never be able to convince the drum guys of a sectional machines advantages but I have used both and I am glad I don't have a drum machine.

K-50 for most things and an electric eel with 1.25" cable for roots. I used my general sewerrooter on a sidejob once and it has 7/8 cable I ended up having to rent an electric eel sectional as the drum machine just couldn't get through.


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## DesertOkie

I run 11/16 hollow. Most of my runs are over 120ft


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## Will

Anyone running 3/4" Innorcre with the GO 68HD?


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## Will

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=S9R88exMDc0&feature=youtu.be


Made this video on the GO68HD if anyone cares


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## theplungerman

When I was brand new to drain clearing I bought the 68 with half horse power. I know a guy who clears lots of drains and has the 3/4 hsp,, said he wishes he bought the 1/2 hsp cuz the 3/4 is to powerful,, but I think he's being a wuss. 
I've been using the same machine for 25 plus years, just had to replace e the motor a year ago.. And other than a few drive arms and a couple switches it's been dabome. 
I use it on the back,,, cable up a ladder and down the vent. With no pipe, by myself. Just keep the slack up and it's fine. And the torque at the problem spot is more than enough as the physics of the extra cable wanting to fall in create this. 
Then after the blockage is cleared, you roll the cable over a come along put the feeder in retrieve mode, and walla,,, when I smoked this was a light up ritual, just kick back puff puff, and observe the beautiful scenery. While keeping one eye on the cable of course. 
Why any one would want to fuss with a k60 and all those sections on a roof is so beyond me. I won't even try it. This is how I feel about it. Lol


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## gear junkie

I gotta see this in action but just your description sounds extremely dangerous. How do you turn it on and off?


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## Will

theplungerman said:


> When I was brand new to drain clearing I bought the 68 with half horse power. I know a guy who clears lots of drains and has the 3/4 hsp,, said he wishes he bought the 1/2 hsp cuz the 3/4 is to powerful,, but I think he's being a wuss.
> I've been using the same machine for 25 plus years, just had to replace e the motor a year ago.. And other than a few drive arms and a couple switches it's been dabome.
> I use it on the back,,, cable up a ladder and down the vent. With no pipe, by myself. Just keep the slack up and it's fine. And the torque at the problem spot is more than enough as the physics of the extra cable wanting to fall in create this.
> Then after the blockage is cleared, you roll the cable over a come along put the feeder in retrieve mode, and walla,,, when I smoked this was a light up ritual, just kick back puff puff, and observe the beautiful scenery. While keeping one eye on the cable of course.
> Why any one would want to fuss with a k60 and all those sections on a roof is so beyond me. I won't even try it. This is how I feel about it. Lol



I can agree sometimes the GO68HD is too powerful. You can run right through a tuff blockage and never feel it. I never put the cable in auto feed until I have cleared the blockage and know what I'm up against. I don't operate the machine like I did in the video, I was just home for a change and bored and needed to install my new cable I just bought.

You still using your original GO68?


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## Will

gear junkie said:


> I gotta see this in action but just your description sounds extremely dangerous. How do you turn it on and off?


The foot switch gives you a break in the power source, I never operate it without a foot switch. I just took the foot switch off for the video so I could leave it running while I videoed 

http://www.gorlitz.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=DFD59DABF8694343A3EDACBC6FD60442


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## Hillside

I have my old 1/2hp 68hd, thing is built like a tank and I used to be able to use my Honda eu2000 generator with it with no problems, my guy has it now and I treated myself for the 1st time to two brand new machines, a 68hd and a new go50, generator won't run it anymore and it trips breakers at people's house a lot, both machines had to go get tuned after I bought them cuz the people at gorlitz just slam them together when building them, I'm not sure I'm liking the new transmission on it, sometimes when I get off it and back on it it starts to vibrate and act up and I have to let off it for a bit then continue, the guy at gorlitz in repair is a douche also


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## Will

Maybe look at Mytana M81 next if you get another one. There 1/2hp, and I hear there customer service is great. I've never had much of a problem though getting stuff from Gorlitz, but I do agree, there not the most social people to talk to


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## gear junkie

Will said:


> The foot switch gives you a break in the power source, I never operate it without a foot switch. I just took the foot switch off for the video so I could leave it running while I videoed
> 
> http://www.gorlitz.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=DFD59DABF8694343A3EDACBC6FD60442


Sorry for the confusion Will, was referring to Robert....machine on the ground, you're on the roof, sounds iffy.

All Clear posted photos of running an extension pipe from the vent down to the ground. That kinda made sense and seemed a lot safer.


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## Will

On a roof I'm bringing the K60 and I wouldn't even consider using the GO68HD, even with it left on the ground. Before I knew what a sectional was, I did stuff like that with my Spartan or other drum machines, now I just use the K60 instead. Alot easier and safer for those situations.


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## Will

gear junkie said:


> Sorry for the confusion Will, was referring to Robert....machine on the ground, you're on the roof, sounds iffy.
> 
> All Clear posted photos of running an extension pipe from the vent down to the ground. That kinda made sense and seemed a lot safer.


With the foot switch you run two extension cords. One to the foot switch on the roof with you, the second back to the machine on the ground. Gorlitz has different style hook ups to there machines. They don't use pig tail cords like most sewer machines which is nice, because you don't have to worry about warping them up or getting in the way. The foot switch breaks the circuit


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## theplungerman

Will said:


> Maybe look at Mytana M81 next if you get another one. There 1/2hp, and I hear there customer service is great. I've never had much of a problem though getting stuff from Gorlitz, but I do agree, there not the most social people to talk to


Your right about,,, not the most social,, the guy who runs service and sales is a bozo,,, that was my first impression,,, and when he was getting curt with me once I one up ed him and he backed down. Then starting being easier to deal with. He's OK but that shouldnt happen. I go through JM Mckinney for my gorlitz needs, same price,, way better service. 

The first time I was told about the machine on back on ground up a ladder down a vent sounded dumb,,, but it's not dangerous as long as you are a seasoned vet and keep an eye on your cable. Easy pessie nice and easy. Better than coupling up uncoupling a gaggle of sections. Now that sounds,,, um,,, time consuming?


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## Will

theplungerman said:


> Your right about,,, not the most social,, the guy who runs service and sales is a bozo,,, that was my first impression,,, and when he was getting curt with me once I one up ed him and he backed down. Then starting being easier to deal with. He's OK but that shouldnt happen. I go through JM Mckinney for my gorlitz needs, same price,, way better service. The first time I was told about the machine on back on ground up a ladder down a vent sounded dumb,,, but it's not dangerous as long as you are a seasoned vet and keep an eye on your cable. Easy pessie nice and easy. Better than coupling up uncoupling a gaggle of sections. Now that sounds,,, um,,, time consuming?


K60 fairly easy on roof, with the Gorltz you running it through a section of PVC or just the rung of the ladder? You have a link for the place you get your Gorlitz stuff from or is it local place?


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## theplungerman

Will said:


> K60 fairly easy on roof, with the Gorltz you running it through a section of PVC or just the rung of the ladder? You have a link for the place you get your Gorlitz stuff from or is it local place?


http://m.yp.com/hawthorne-ca/mip/mckinney-j-m-co-7113261?lid=1000225005355
No Web site, This will give you a number, ask for Melody, she's been there 20 years and a real treat. It's local, but I have them ship everything except the 11/16 150 footer. It's about 30 min away. 
No pipe up ladder,,, no biggy, especially if the cable is kink less. 
I can see how the k60 could be determined as fairly easy. 
But try the sled on its back up a ladder etc, and then tell me it's not easier,, Go ahead,, and if you do,,, I'll call you a liar,, I will, that's a promise. Lol
Next time I do a main from roof I'll video it. If I remember,,,lol,,, The come along is the bomb. No pulling out,, just watch as it automatically comes out and down ladder into drum,,, first I feed by hand,, work the blockage,,, then AUTOMATICALLY it comes back all the way,,, no stopping to uncouple it's go to baby,, go to I say. How can more work be better. 
Couple and uncouple away,,,, if you wish. 
I can see it being useful if basements are a deal. But where I live, that's one in a million applications. So,, the K 60 is outta here.


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## Will

My next roof job, I'll use the GO68HD and see if it's easier or not. Guess I just don't like the idea of having 20' of cable just flapping around with the machine on the ground on its back and me up on the roof trying to control it.....

Ever hear of this company? 

http://www.rjmcompany.com/plumbers-snakes/plumber-snake.htm


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## Hillside

Try plumbers depot in Hawthorne also, great people to deal with


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## theplungerman

Will said:


> My next roof job, I'll use the GO68HD and see if it's easier or not. Guess I just don't like the idea of having 20' of cable just flapping around with the machine on the ground on its back and me up on the roof trying to control it.....
> 
> Ever hear of this company?
> 
> http://www.rjmcompany.com/plumbers-snakes/plumber-snake.htm


Keep the slack up, easy with no kinks,,, (it's not a wet noodle),,,,,, a little kink? , what's a little slap here and there between friends,,, not a big deal,, good luck. 
Melody at jm mckinney is awesome, no desire to look elsewhere


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## Plumber

Will said:


> The foot switch gives you a break in the power source, I never operate it without a foot switch. I just took the foot switch off for the video so I could leave it running while I videoed
> 
> http://www.gorlitz.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=DFD59DABF8694343A3EDACBC6FD60442


I was trained without the foot switch---4 years without it. Would never work without it now.


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## theplungerman

Plumber said:


> I was trained without the foot switch---4 years without it. Would never work without it now.


The guy who trained me was (still is) a stud. And he didn't like the foot switch, so he didn't use it. He payed for it when he was new,, got away with only a kinked cable here and there in the beginning, maybe a partial finger sprain once maybe twice. 
But he proved if you do it long enough and pay close enough attention to the cable you can pull apart the extension cords before all hades breaks out. He does wrap one cord around the the vent and has the other cord within reach for a quick yank if it gets bound up. 
I've overheard him say though if he ever trained someone it would be to use a foot switch, especially if he was covered under his insurance. :laughing:


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## Will

Not using the foot switch is foolish imo. Why not use it? It's not expensive and makes it 100 times safer.


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## Drain Pro

Will said:


> Not using the foot switch is foolish imo. Why not use it? It's not expensive and makes it 100 times safer.


I agree. No sense in taking unnecessary chances no matter how experienced you are.


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## theplungerman

You are so right, better safe then sorry.


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## ShaneP

I own a 68hd and to be honest I have not used it much because everytime I do and encounter tough roots or a broken line I kink the cable. I have replaced the cable twice. As some of you guys stated I feel it is almost to powerful. I learned on general machines and maybe there not everyone's cup of tea , but I don't ruin my cable. I have used 3/4 hollow cable and inner core both from gorlitz with the same results. My general inner core cable seems to last forever and it is only 5/8. What gives?


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## gear junkie

That is kinda weird on the motor size. A K7500 uses a 4/10 hp motor. the gorlitz uses a 3/4. Wonder why the wide range of motor size for 2 machines that are supposed to do the same thing?


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## Will

ShaneP said:


> I own a 68hd and to be honest I have not used it much because everytime I do and encounter tough roots or a broken line I kink the cable. I have replaced the cable twice. As some of you guys stated I feel it is almost to powerful. I learned on general machines and maybe there not everyone's cup of tea , but I don't ruin my cable. I have used 3/4 hollow cable and inner core both from gorlitz with the same results. My general inner core cable seems to last forever and it is only 5/8. What gives?


Are you using a auto feed on first pass? I never use the auto feed until I atleast has one pass through the line and I got it flowing. 

What General Machine you using Speedrooter? I also learned on General machines. The Speedrooter imo is a good machine. Best machine General makes. Speedrooter probably has about a 1/3 of the power of the GO68HD


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## DesertOkie

ShaneP said:


> I own a 68hd and to be honest I have not used it much because everytime I do and encounter tough roots or a broken line I kink the cable. I have replaced the cable twice. As some of you guys stated I feel it is almost to powerful. I learned on general machines and maybe there not everyone's cup of tea , but I don't ruin my cable. I have used 3/4 hollow cable and inner core both from gorlitz with the same results. My general inner core cable seems to last forever and it is only 5/8. What gives?



You must be laying on that beast. The 68HD works best with a touch and go style. Hit the roots, let it start to bind then pull back just enough to free the blade. The snap back is what cuts the best. 

I am heavy on the cable when I run sewer, I do tend to keep my machine close to the hole. If it's flipping on you, you are to far away. If it's flipping in the cage, you are pushing too hard. I speak from experience in both these:laughing::laughing:.


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## DesertOkie

Will said:


> My next roof job, I'll use the GO68HD and see if it's easier or not. Guess I just don't like the idea of having 20' of cable just flapping around with the machine on the ground on its back and me up on the roof trying to control it.....
> 
> Ever hear of this company?
> 
> http://www.rjmcompany.com/plumbers-snakes/plumber-snake.htm



See post 13, easy peasy on the roof.


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## ShaneP

I do have a speedrooter 92. I was using the auto feed running it in. Guess I'll order a new cable and give it another try. It has just been sitting in my shop for the last three years or so. Really liked the 160' of cable on the real ready to go. I run in to long sewers without multiple cleanouts pretty often. What brand of cable and size do you guys use?


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## theplungerman

DesertOkie said:


> See post 13, easy peasy on the roof.


,,,, nice and easy,,,,,, but ditch the pipe, no need,,,,, just keep the slack up,,, no biggy,,, trust me, go for it...... Oh and get the come along,,,, it's a pully gig that sticks in the vent


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## theplungerman

DesertOkie said:


> You must be laying on that beast. The 68HD works best with a touch and go style. Hit the roots, let it start to bind then pull back just enough to free the blade. The snap back is what cuts the best.
> 
> I am heavy on the cable when I run sewer, I do tend to keep my machine close to the hole. If it's flipping on you, you are to far away. If it's flipping in the cage, you are pushing too hard. I speak from experience in both these:laughing::laughing:.


I feel exactly the same way. 
My guy likes to free hand when at blockage,,, I use the auto feed but I have to pay very close attention to the cable. The cable will show signs it's stuck, so I auto feed back and the it spins fast then in again,,,, rinse repeat.


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## Will

ShaneP said:


> I do have a speedrooter 92. I was using the auto feed running it in. Guess I'll order a new cable and give it another try. It has just been sitting in my shop for the last three years or so. Really liked the 160' of cable on the real ready to go. I run in to long sewers without multiple cleanouts pretty often. What brand of cable and size do you guys use?


I had Gorlitz 3/4" hollow core on my GO68HD when I bought it. Still got that cable in my extra reel. I bought some 11/16" hollow core from G&R Cable and didn't like it as much as the Gorlitz 3/4". I went back to the Gorlitz 3/4"" hollow core. I prefer the 3/4"


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## Will

Got these to help with the lifting the the GO68HD, and I'm sure I'll find other stuff to left with it. I'd love to get the loading ramp,. but don't have a good way to get it into my Step Van. Probably end up getting a crane, but this will do for now.


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## ShaneP

I guess I will order the hollow core 3/4 cable and give it a shot. I hate to just have it sitting there with no cable. Will, have you ever used any dura cable ? I thought I might give it a try.


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## Hillside

Will said:


> Got these to help with the lifting the the GO68HD, and I'm sure I'll find other stuff to left with it. I'd love to get the loading ramp,. but don't have a good way to get it into my Step Van. Probably end up getting a crane, but this will do for now.


What if u put a winch towards the back and dragged it up and down


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## Will

Seems the loading ramp Gorlitz makes is better to come in to the side of a vehicle. Don't want to cut new access into side of my van. If I put it in the back it will have to go in between the wheel wells, so it will eat up alot of space and kill off access into the back of van....probably do if anyway. My newer step van I bought (not one in pic above) will be for sewer and drain work only so I'd be willing to lose some space and access to save my back. 


Can't speak for Duracable cables personaly, but have heard there not the best cable. There machines are good though


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## DesertOkie

theplungerman said:


> ,,,, nice and easy,,,,,, *but ditch the pipe, no need,,,,, just keep the slack up,,, no biggy,*,, trust me, go for it...... Oh and get the come along,,,, it's a pully gig that sticks in the vent


I lean on my cable pretty heavy even when running a vent, I'll trade an extra hand for a stick of pipe over worrying about my soupy line being all over the place. 

When I was training, back in the day, I did it with out pipe and slapped a 6X12 window with my cable when it shot out of the basket. Big azz cable marks right in the middle of the f-ing thing. Since then I'll keep the PVC. It also makes it easier to push it back in the cage from the roof, no trip down to retrieve.


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## DesertOkie

Will said:


> Got these to help with the lifting the the GO68HD, and I'm sure I'll find other stuff to left with it. I'd love to get the loading ramp,. but don't have a good way to get it into my Step Van. Probably end up getting a crane, but this will do for now.



Move that filing cabinet and get a gorlitz or Dura ramp.


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## Will

DesertOkie said:


> Move that filing cabinet and get a gorlitz or Dura ramp.


That's my plumbing van, my one I'm outfitting for the sewer and drain work is getting lettered, I plan on ordering the ramp


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## theplungerman

Hillside said:


> What if u put a winch towards the back and dragged it up and down


Yeah what he said. 
You can put the wench where you want then string the rope around a pully up high towards the front with some steep aluminium ramps. Just put a secured metal rod across attach a pulley mount the wench on the side at the front,,,, walla easy pessie nice and easy. Lol. That would take all day for me. I know a guy who has a truck like you that did this.


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## gear junkie

Fasten a sheet of plywood to the jack that extends to the van. Put 2 nubs that lock in where the gate locks into and you can slide the gorlitz on and off the jack.


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## theplungerman

DesertOkie said:


> I lean on my cable pretty heavy even when running a vent, I'll trade an extra hand for a stick of pipe over worrying about my soupy line being all over the place.
> 
> When I was training, back in the day, I did it with out pipe and slapped a 6X12 window with my cable when it shot out of the basket. Big azz cable marks right in the middle of the f-ing thing. Since then I'll keep the PVC. It also makes it easier to push it back in the cage from the roof, no trip down to retrieve.


I've been snaking this way through roof vents almost 30 years. Never had 1 major instance. I don't understand why you lean heavy when on roof. Gravity does all the work. Leaning heavy isn't at the top of my list these days of procedural main line roof vent snaking tactics, it will,,, pop the clog,,,,, OR,,, binds you up, which increases greatly your chance of cable jumping out of basket, or gets you stuck. 
I used to lean heavy on roofs,,,,, and can't remember when I stopped leaning heavy. But I can tell you it was when I stopped kinking cables and getting stuck often. Now it's hardly ever, and getting unstuck is easier since I'm not as far into the lovely root intrusion. Treat the blockage with respect and it will not fight back as hard. 
What I do is easier and less dangerous
Letting gravity work for you when at a tough spot from the roof is more than enough. It would be like leaning heavy from ground. When I'm going down vent and hit that root blockage I just let it lay and keep the slack up, (again kinda easy, but some strength is needed), then what happens is I either pop it, or chew away then it pops, or it starts to get hung up, I yank back and let it fall,,,, rinse repeat. 
When I'm on a roof now and hit a hard spot I'm always glad that I finally figured out I don't have to lean on it or muscle it through to clear it,,, and best of all I stopped kinking cables.
I figure 15ft of 11/16 cable weighs aprox 20 pounds. Now imagine pushing with 20 pounds, or 10 for that matter, with it spinning and wanting to move forward, it will penetrate I promise. 
It is my opinion that leaning heavy on a roof vent job with machine on ground of course, (and with pipe also) is more riskier than just letting gravity do the work, with no pipe. 
Pushing back in from roof? Sounds hard,, feeder? 
Soupy line? A cable with no kinks will not be soupy or sloppy. 
Besides all that energy you save by not leaning on it you can use to keep the slack up. :thumbup:
I let the feeder automatically bring it back over the come along hands free, then handle it back to the ladder, then Chuck it out and easily push that last 10 feet from the ground into machine. Walla, this is how I roll. :laughing:


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## Will

Yall using the vent roller Gorlitz sells? 

http://www.gorlitz.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=E3646AE0F7FF4344ACCA92567CE6DC2D


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## TheDrainGuy

theplungerman said:


> I've been snaking this way through roof vents almost 30 years. Never had 1 major instance. I don't understand why you lean heavy when on roof. Gravity does all the work. Leaning heavy isn't at the top of my list these days of procedural main line roof vent snaking tactics, it will,,, pop the clog,,,,, OR,,, binds you up, which increases greatly your chance of cable jumping out of basket, or gets you stuck. I used to lean heavy on roofs,,,,, and can't remember when I stopped leaning heavy. But I can tell you it was when I stopped kinking cables and getting stuck often. Now it's hardly ever, and getting unstuck is easier since I'm not as far into the lovely root intrusion. Treat the blockage with respect and it will not fight back as hard. What I do is easier and less dangerous Letting gravity work for you when at a tough spot from the roof is more than enough. It would be like leaning heavy from ground. When I'm going down vent and hit that root blockage I just let it lay and keep the slack up, (again kinda easy, but some strength is needed), then what happens is I either pop it, or chew away then it pops, or it starts to get hung up, I yank back and let it fall,,,, rinse repeat. When I'm on a roof now and hit a hard spot I'm always glad that I finally figured out I don't have to lean on it or muscle it through to clear it,,, and best of all I stopped kinking cables. I figure 15ft of 11/16 cable weighs aprox 20 pounds. Now imagine pushing with 20 pounds, or 10 for that matter, with it spinning and wanting to move forward, it will penetrate I promise. It is my opinion that leaning heavy on a roof vent job with machine on ground of course, (and with pipe also) is more riskier than just letting gravity do the work, with no pipe. Pushing back in from roof? Sounds hard,, feeder? Soupy line? A cable with no kinks will not be soupy or sloppy. Besides all that energy you save by not leaning on it you can use to keep the slack up. :thumbup: I let the feeder automatically bring it back over the come along hands free, then handle it back to the ladder, then Chuck it out and easily push that last 10 feet from the ground into machine. Walla, this is how I roll. :laughing:


Do you do all you're main lines from the roof like that or just when there is not a clean out to work from? Ever pull toilets or no?
Up here certain neighborhoods have "ranch" houses, easy to get on roof, kitchen and laundry usually tied together. I've done a couple of those from the roof due to " limited access" on the inside.


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## Will

I think alot of the roof jobs are in the south. I do them all the time too. Our roofs are flatter, and we are on slabs, not basement most of the time. So when you pulled a water closet on a slab home, the sewage has to go somewhere. I'd rather not get sewage all over someones floors.


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## theplungerman

Will said:


> Yall using the vent roller Gorlitz sells?
> 
> http://www.gorlitz.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=E3646AE0F7FF4344ACCA92567CE6DC2D


That's it,, me and her go way back,,, :yes:


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## theplungerman

TheDrainGuy said:


> Do you do all you're main lines from the roof like that or just when there is not a clean out to work from? Ever pull toilets or no?
> Up here certain neighborhoods have "ranch" houses, easy to get on roof, kitchen and laundry usually tied together. I've done a couple of those from the roof due to " limited access" on the inside.


When no clean out. Don't pull toilets,,, for the most part,, but on occasion,,, like yesterday I did pull a toilet to clear half a house.


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