# Pedestal sink installation



## voltatab (Jan 2, 2010)

Currently my method of installing a pedestal sink is horrible. I'm there for three hours leveling, marking and trying to tighten it up to the wall. 

I first install the faucet on the sink then put the pedestal and sink mocked up in place, I then try my best to mark underneath where I née to drill. After that I mov the sink out of the way, drill (let's assume your drilling tile, hollow behind it) then anchor with toggle bolts. My two biggest problems are leveling the sink on the stand, and tightening the bolts to the wall once the sink is on there. 

I need a new method, or some tips please. 
share your knowledge and ill be very grateful, Thanks!


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

I usually set the sink on the pedestal, then level it, then trace the underside with a pencil, remove sink top, measure up and mark the holes. I also use 3/16" butterfly bolts because after I install them and set the top on the base it has enough play to level while tightening.
Then I fill in with caulk between the base and the top to cushion and secure it

Can usually set one including faucets in about 30 to 45 minutes.


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## voltatab (Jan 2, 2010)

Couple other issues I've had 

The sink is not level in any position on the stand by itself, requiring me to shim it with something, which makes it a little unstable while trying to tighten the bolts mark my holes. 

Access to tighten up the bolts is very little with the faucet on. I have cut the Phillips head off a toggle bolt an spun a hex nut on the end instead to tighten up, so tightening is easier-Thing i hate about toggle bolts is the size hole you must make to get one in. 

It just feels like I'm doing this the difficult way


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## ogre plumber (Dec 30, 2010)

Bill said:


> I usually set the sink on the pedestal, then level it, then trace the underside with a pencil, remove sink top, measure up and mark the holes. I also use 3/16" butterfly bolts because after I install them and set the top on the base it has enough play to level while tightening.
> Then I fill in with caulk between the base and the top to cushion and secure it
> 
> Can usually set one including faucets in about 30 to 45 minutes.


Exactly the way I have done it 100+ times with out backing in the wall except I pencil the holes were the bolts go.


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## voltatab (Jan 2, 2010)

How do you tighten up the bolts? I'm thinking of using butterfly's with all thread next time....


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## ogre plumber (Dec 30, 2010)

voltatab said:


> Couple other issues I've had
> 
> The sink is not level in any position on the stand by itself, requiring me to shim it with something, which makes it a little unstable while trying to tighten the bolts mark my holes.
> 
> ...


On those types I use a hex head screw and a rachet to tighten.I dont shim it once you got the bolts started I slowly tighten while leveling.Once its level and tight silicone it once it sets up its gtg.Its way easier if you roughed it in I always put a 2x10 for backing and use bolts later.Once you do a few it will get easier.Trust me the first one I did almost ended up in the front yard.:laughing:


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## BROOKLYN\PLUMB (May 21, 2010)

voltatab said:


> How do you tighten up the bolts? I'm thinking of using butterfly's with all thread next time....


If you have plywood behind the sheetrock like your supposed to then gimlet rod with nut and washer works the best

Sent from my EVO 4G using Plumbing Zone


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## DIZ (Nov 17, 2010)

Reverse your toggle (butterfly bolt) and get a machine nut that matches the thread. This means the philips head part gets buried in the wall. Now slap a big washer on it and tighten it up. 

Ideally however......

Proper backing and coach screws with washers and nuts.............WINNING!


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## ogre plumber (Dec 30, 2010)

BROOKLYN\PLUMB said:


> If you have plywood behind the sheetrock like your supposed to then gimlet rod with nut and washer works the best
> 
> Sent from my EVO 4G using Plumbing Zone


 Yep your right.If you got backing and the hardware that comes with certain fixtures it is best.:thumbup:


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

BROOKLYN\PLUMB said:


> If you have plywood behind the sheetrock like your supposed to then gimlet rod with nut and washer works the best
> 
> Sent from my EVO 4G using Plumbing Zone


 



When I did new construction, and was setting a pedestal sink, if there was no backing in the wall, I'd cut the drywall (sheetrock), and install a nice big piece of plywood. After wall was repaired, I'd hang my bracket with big sturdy lag bolts then set sink. You could sit on the pedestal lav after it was set, and it wouldn't come off the wall.

Same principal for a urinal, by the way.

Here's a tip, cut about 4" off the handles of a pair of channel locks pliers. Those will be the pair you use to tighten the tail-peice nut of the pedestal lav. The regular channel lock pliers handles are too long to tighten the nuts on the drains for pedestal sinks; the handles hit the wall.


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

Tommy plumber said:


> When I did new construction, and was setting a pedestal sink, if there was no backing in the wall, I'd cut the drywall (sheetrock), and install a nice big piece of plywood. After wall was repaired, I'd hang my bracket with big sturdy lag bolts then set sink. You could sit on the pedestal lav after it was set, and it wouldn't come off the wall.
> 
> Same principal for a urinal, by the way.
> 
> Here's a tip, cut about 4" off the handles of a pair of channel locks pliers. Those will be the pair you use to tighten the tail-peice nut of the pedestal lav. The regular channel lock pliers handles are too long to tighten the nuts on the drains for pedestal sinks; the handles hit the wall.


Now that channel lock advice is why I frequent PZ. that nut is always a pain. Love hearing tips and tricks that have helped others along the way...


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

U.A.til.I.die said:


> Now that channel lock advice is why I frequent PZ. that nut is always a pain. Love hearing tips and tricks that have helped others along the way...


 I always use 1-1/4" chrome traps for pedestal sinks.

I mock the sink up to get the proper height, remove the sink from the pedestal, flip it upside down and tighten the SJ nuts on the tail piece and trap bend and then put it all back together.

The Lowes in my area sells these really sticky orange rubber SJ washers -- Way better than the gray round rubber washers that come with most chrome traps.


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## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

I carry closet screws and use them when I have backing if not 5/16 x 4 inch toggle bolts. Normally the instruction packet has installation directions, height and width of the bolts. Install the bolts with fender washers. I then connect the faucet to the sink. Then I connect the sink to the wall bolts and leave the bolts loose. Lifting the sink higher than the pedal stool I start to push the pedal stool in place and then tighten bolts. I use a left hander angle channel lock to tighten slip nuts.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

Widdershins said:


> I always use 1-1/4" chrome traps for pedestal sinks.
> 
> I mock the sink up to get the proper height, remove the sink from the pedestal, flip it upside down and tighten the SJ nuts on the tail piece and trap bend and then put it all back together.
> 
> The Lowes in my area sells these really sticky orange rubber SJ washers -- Way better than the gray round rubber washers that come with most chrome traps.


 
Wolverine Brass sells them as well they work great, 2 grown men cannot pull tubular apart with them washers.


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