# cleaning copper



## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

I prefer sanding cloth.
My dad swears by pot scrubbers.
Hate wire brush.

Whats your preferred method of cleaning copper for sweating?


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Old school sand cloth for me. Don't care for the open mesh.


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## PlumberJ90 (Oct 10, 2012)

Open mesh. Bought a roll of sanding cloth and hated it compared to open mesh


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

Open mesh, or Scotch Brite pads.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Um telling my apprentice to clean it is my favorite method !!


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## Letterrip (Jul 28, 2013)

On new stuff, I like plain sand cloth. On repairs where there is a layer of sediment/oxidation/paint, open mesh. Doesn't foul up as easily. But gloves are a must with open mesh, or you end up with green hands.


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## Plumborg (Feb 21, 2013)

I really like open mesh. Fitting brushes are a must have for me. I cut the handle down to about an inch and put the cut end handle of the fitting brush in the jaws of my drill for bigger pipe. Does anyone else do that?


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## Plumbbum0203 (Dec 14, 2011)

I dont clean with sharkbites.


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## PlumbDumber (Aug 7, 2013)

Sand cloth is my first choice. preferably some that is broken in real good so that it does not scratch as deeply into the copper.


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## Plumborg (Feb 21, 2013)

Do you chamfer though, Mr Plumbum?


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

I'm old enough to state the decline of open mesh sandcloth over the years. 

'Back in the day" that cloth was built to last. Unbelievably you could rip off a 6-8" piece, almost clean all the copper in an entire house on a 2nd rough.


Now? They weakened the glue on the grit purposely, you have to wipe all copper down with a paper towel for that grit will contaminate the copper you just cleaned. 

Never had much luck with the solid sandpaper, as soon as it gets wet, won't clean. Not abrasive enough for the etching desired for solid adhesion of flux/solder. Either that or I simply just don't want to work that hard to clean it.

I use turn brushes for 1/2 and 3/4 fittings, most times I use just the sandcloth for the 3/4. 

Tonight I had to rework the top of a water heater and the 6" piece of grit mesh sandcloth lasted only 6 fittings at best. A product that has become an expendable cost item you have to watch what you spend in a course of a year. 
I line item FSG which is flux-solder-gas and most times it's a $10 cover charge in the bill to catch those expenditures whether how much or how little I am using to each time I'm working with copper. In the YTD it usually becomes a profit line item that works without question.


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## CaberTosser (Mar 7, 2013)

Most of the old solid cloth I can recall all had water soluble glue, who was the rocket surgeon who came up with that idea? (I know, I know, he sold more of it....) 

Usually I'll use open-mesh sand cloth, but a Scotchbrite pad works like a hot damn too. Those wire brush 'sockets' that can be incorporated into those inside-outside 1/2' & 3/4" tools or by themselves as drill attachments make for easy & proper-depth cleaning.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

I put brushes in my drill. I never clean a fitting with cloth unless I'm in a bind


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## Flyguy199 (Sep 20, 2011)

I prefer open mesh. Just bought a roll the other day. Think it's Oatey.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Sharkbites & PEX...
Who cleans copper any more?:thumbup:


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

Old school open mesh.


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## jmc12185 (Aug 27, 2013)

Hercules plumbers mesh works the best but I feel like they keep making it cheaper and cheaper over the years. Doesn't last and better hope it doesn't get wet.


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## PlumberJ90 (Oct 10, 2012)

jmc12185 said:


> Hercules plumbers mesh works the best but I feel like they keep making it cheaper and cheaper over the years. Doesn't last and better hope it doesn't get wet.


Oatey works pretty good wet


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

PlumbDumber said:


> Sand cloth is my first choice. preferably some that is broken in real good so that it does not scratch as deeply into the copper.


You are defeating the purpose, the scratches are what is needed to make the joint work.


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## PlumbDumber (Aug 7, 2013)

All you need is all of the oxides removed, the proper flux applied and the right amount of heat. The tinning action does not need deep grooves.


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## Plumbworker (Oct 23, 2008)

PlumbDumber said:


> All you need is all of the oxides removed, the proper flux applied and the right amount of heat. The tinning action does not need deep grooves.


It may not need scratches but it's a much superior joint.. give's the solder better adhesion


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## PlumbDumber (Aug 7, 2013)

Believe what you wish. For me, 45 years of having almost zero leaks on my copper joints tells me not to change a thing.


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## Adamche (Feb 10, 2012)

Steel wool. Simple


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## PlumbDumber (Aug 7, 2013)

According to the copper institute, Steel wool is a NO-NO.

The tinning action takes place on a microscopic level. Under a microscope, those deep scratches look like the Grand Canyon. They are not necessary.

Copper is a stronger metal than the solder so excess solder in the joint is counterproductive.

The close tolerances between the tubing and the fittings enhance the capillary action that fills the joint. Any removal of material more than the oxides will only widen the annular space and is counterproductive.


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

I ran out of sand cloth once and I used one of those green abrasive scrubbies for 1 joint.. It worked


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

MTDUNN said:


> I ran out of sand cloth once and I used one of those green abrasive scrubbies for 1 joint.. It worked


You have to use those for med gas. I've spent weeks running med gas using nothing but those green scrubbies.


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