# Gas Line Inspection



## Tommy plumber

Inspector told me that the city of Gainesville won't accept a gauge for a final gas line inspection. Has to be a U-tube manometer. And it can't be a digital manometer either. Anyone else have to use a U-tube manometer for a gas inspection?


----------



## rjbphd

Tommy plumber said:


> Inspector told me that the city of Gainesville won't accept a gauge for a final gas line inspection. Has to be a U-tube manometer. And it can't be a digital manometer either. Anyone else have to use a U-tube manometer for a gas inspection?


How old is he?? 108??


----------



## Tommy plumber

rjbphd said:


> How old is he?? 108??










According to him, it's a city ordinance or code.


----------



## rjbphd

Tommy plumber said:


> According to him, it's a city ordinance or code.


Ask him to show it.. gage and digital have been approved long time ago.. newer digital have printout for better record keeping.. even the gas company use them! Tell ur inspector to get bend..


----------



## gordyloo

Never seen that. How do you air it up? Same pressure as a regular gauge?


----------



## justme

we still have a roll up water tube manometer , but we never use it. Silly phacing inspector.


----------



## aero1

that's absolutely ridiculous, and when you do a 2lb system 56" water column what then? how about a 5 lb. system ? now unless he's testing operating pressure and that's all, that's normally a 1/4 lb. or 7 inch water column. I would sure ask for a clarification on what he's after. hmmm


----------



## ROCKSTARPLUMBER

Tommy, I know exactly what your talking about. I went through the same bullcrap at some apartments down there. I just never understood it. We put 30lb gauges on up here and soap the meter tie ins with the inspector during our final. All the inspector needs to see is it still under pressure for ten minutes before we make our tie in during final. But, I will say their permit prices down there are way cheaper than up here.


----------



## stillaround

Tommy welcome to Gainesville....the problem with 30 lb is you can rupture the regulator on the meter...yes we use them ...especially and come to think of it only in GV.....Gene Stockman is a great inspector though...known him for years and he'll still crawl in an attic to inspect a repipe to see if its fastened at 32" lol...
The water heaters can be tested at the drip leg easily ...only problem is leaving them on a job..$60.00


----------



## MootsNYC

New York city we have a 3lb test with an analog gauge. My company has u tubes that we use when we install gas boosters in apartment buildings and are checking the w/c in the run for the boiler.


----------



## Tommy plumber

gordyloo said:


> Never seen that. How do you air it up? Same pressure as a regular gauge?










You have to blow into the system {yes with your mouth}and then quickly stick that rubber tubing onto the brass adapter fitting attached to the gas line. This is a first for me. I have always gotten gas inspections with gauges. 

With your breath, you can easily raise the water column 6" or 7" of WC. The inspector explained to me that the U-tube manometer is much more sensitive to leaks than a gauge, that's why the city wants it.


Regarding the pressure, the gauge will read 10" or so WC which is a little more than 1/4 psi. So this U-tube manometer test is low pressure.


----------



## Tommy plumber

stillaround said:


> Tommy welcome to Gainesville....the problem with 30 lb is you can rupture the regulator on the meter...yes we use them ...especially and come to think of it only in GV.....Gene Stockman is a great inspector though...known him for years and he'll still crawl in an attic to inspect a repipe to see if its fastened at 32" lol...
> The water heaters can be tested at the drip leg easily ...only problem is leaving them on a job..$60.00












First permitted job up in Gainesville {I think of you when I'm in town, because I know you and the sons are in that neck of the woods}. After I passed my rough gas inspection, the inspector mentioned this U-tube manometer test and I kept asking him how I perform it since it's new for me. I could not envision how to air up the pipe; there needs to be a tee fitting with a one-way blow valve I thought. I'm used to the standard gas block with FIP on one side, a port for a gauge and of course the schrader valve to charge it up from the air compressor.


----------



## wyrickmech

That is just stupid we test at 30 psi and on final connection we soap test. Such a low test would not show any small leaks for two large of a time span to be efficient .


----------



## justme

actually a tube manometer will detect a very very small leak in a very short period of time.


----------



## wyrickmech

justme said:


> actually a tube manometer will detect a very very small leak in a very short period of time.


 it is still stupid


----------



## justme

wyrickmech said:


> it is still stupid


I agree with you 100 percent. A diaphragm gauge 30# that is certified will test just fine. That's what we use here anyways.


----------



## Tommy plumber

The gas line is in an older home in a historic section of town.


----------



## LIQUID

That sounds rediculous but I wager it is because digitals can fall out of calibration. Regardless to those who asked about a 2lb system and such, 1" of water exerts a pressure of .0361psi at Its base, you do the math and figure out how tall the water coloum woukd have to be... but it is possiblle.


----------



## MootsNYC

I get what they're doing. Here if you drop the test even if you know no leaks are present and you drop the gas test from the furthest appliance or greater and that needle isn't pinned on zero automatic fail.


----------



## Tommy plumber

When you think about it, a U-tube manometer is alot more sensitive than a gauge that goes up to say, 30 psi.

For example, if a guage goes up to 1000 psi, how would any of us notice a drop of 1 or 2 psi? It would hardly register on the gauge that goes up to 1000 psi. But on a 5 psi guage, 1 or 2 psi drop would be a big drop and show up a leak quickly.


----------



## newyorkcity

The gas test here for .5 psi is 3# for 1/2 hour on a 5# gauge.
We used to use mercury gauges - and buy little vials of replacement mercury.


----------



## Will

We test 15psi here on a 30 psi gauge. Overkill


----------



## Tommy plumber

Inpector passed it today.


----------



## Leach713

Tommy plumber said:


> Inpector passed it today.


Good deal !!


----------



## rjbphd

Tommy plumber said:


> Inpector passed it today.


Glad to know.. now go to Subway


----------



## Tommy plumber

gordyloo said:


> Never seen that. How do you air it up? Same pressure as a regular gauge?








I figured out a better way to get air into the line instead of blowing into the pipe and then quickly shoving the flexible tubing onto the fitting.... You pressurize it up by blowing into the rubber tubing which is attached to the gas line. Then pinch the rubber tubing holding the pressure in the gas line. While holding the tubing pinched, attach the other end to one of the inlets of the U-tube manometer and then release the pinched tubing, that allows the pressure you blew into the gas line to then move the water column.


----------



## Tommy plumber

Leach713 said:


> Good deal !!













I thought he was going to bust me for not testing all the way back to the meter, in the picture you can see that there is a union and a few fittings that were not tested...but he didn't fail me for that.


----------



## rjbphd

Tommy plumber said:


> I thought he was going to bust me for not testing all the way back to the meter, in the picture you can see that there is a union and a few fittings that were not tested...but he didn't fail me for that.


Is that leaves on the ground??? No snow there??


----------



## Tommy plumber

rjbphd said:


> Is that leaves on the ground??? No snow there??











Yes leaves...no snow here in north FLA. Although we get flurries some winters. Tonight will be in the upper teens to low 20s....brrrrr...


----------



## rjbphd

Tommy plumber said:


> Yes leaves...no snow here in north FLA. Although we get flurries some winters. Tonight will be in the upper teens to low 20s....brrrrr...


Brrrr??? Try minus 20 now....without the Fla jacket


----------



## wyrickmech

Tommy plumber said:


> Yes leaves...no snow here in north FLA. Although we get flurries some winters. Tonight will be in the upper teens to low 20s....brrrrr...


 heck we are going to start warming up tomorrow and our high will just barely beat your lows tomorrow.


----------



## LIQUID

Tommy plumber said:


> I figured out a better way to get air into the line instead of blowing into the pipe and then quickly shoving the flexible tubing onto the fitting.... You pressurize it up by blowing into the rubber tubing which is attached to the gas line. Then pinch the rubber tubing holding the pressure in the gas line. While holding the tubing pinched, attach the other end to one of the inlets of the U-tube manometer and then release the pinched tubing, that allows the pressure you blew into the gas line to then move the water column.


Am I missing something here? Why would you do this, you use a manometer to verify the line pressure ( ie gas is In it ) and the manifold pressure. If its a rough in test ( with meter detached ) yoh pressurize the line and leave a guage on... the final test is done simply by watching the meter with no appliances burning. If the needle is spinning at all you have a leak... please explain this "blowing Into the line" and why you would ever do this?


----------



## Bayside500

Tommy plumber said:


> I figured out a better way to get air into the line instead of blowing into the pipe and then quickly shoving the flexible tubing onto the fitting.... You pressurize it up by blowing into the rubber tubing which is attached to the gas line. Then pinch the rubber tubing holding the pressure in the gas line. While holding the tubing pinched, attach the other end to one of the inlets of the U-tube manometer and then release the pinched tubing, that allows the pressure you blew into the gas line to then move the water column.


just put a tee on there with a schrader valve and give it a few pumps with a tire/test ball pump.


----------



## Best Darn Sewer

newyorkcity said:


> The gas test here for .5 psi is 3# for 1/2 hour on a 5# gauge.
> We used to use mercury gauges - and buy little vials of replacement mercury.


Same situation here in Houston. 3# test on 5# gauge. For commercial we have to use a 15# gauge and its a 5# test. You're lucky if inspectors stay ten minutes, though. Now for new construction they may but on repairs, yard line replacements, and gas repipes I haven't seen an inspector stay for 15 min in a looong time. 

I love my digital manometer. I have used it to do a quick test on gas lines before I cut into them to know if there's a leak.


----------



## Tommy plumber

LIQUID said:


> Am I missing something here? Why would you do this, you use a manometer to verify the line pressure ( ie gas is In it ) and the manifold pressure. If its a rough in test ( with meter detached ) yoh pressurize the line and leave a guage on... the final test is done simply by watching the meter with no appliances burning. If the needle is spinning at all you have a leak... please explain this "blowing Into the line" and why you would ever do this?











I passed my rough gas inspection with a gauge. While the inspector was there speaking with me, he mentioned that for the final gas inspection, the city of Gainesville requires a U-tube manometer for their test. So I just did what they wanted.


----------



## Best Darn Sewer

Good to hear you passed. I still can't believe they require a slack tube gauge. I was going to buy one once and then someone showed me a digital one. 

It is cool that you were able to learn how to use it for a test. Though, you may never need it again unless you do gas work in that area again. Now you will have to find reasons to use it. What did it run you? The one I was going to buy ran $75 from Grainger.


----------



## wyrickmech

Best Darn Sewer said:


> Same situation here in Houston. 3# test on 5# gauge. For commercial we have to use a 15# gauge and its a 5# test. You're lucky if inspectors stay ten minutes, though. Now for new construction they may but on repairs, yard line replacements, and gas repipes I haven't seen an inspector stay for 15 min in a looong time. I love my digital manometer. I have used it to do a quick test on gas lines before I cut into them to know if there's a leak.


here we simply do a pressure test of 30psi on threaded lines and 60psi on all welded lines with a two hour minimum standing time.


----------



## Best Darn Sewer

wyrickmech said:


> here we simply do a pressure test of 30psi on threaded lines and 60psi on all welded lines with a two hour minimum standing time.


Nice and straight forward. I like it.


----------



## Tommy plumber

Best Darn Sewer said:


> Good to hear you passed. I still can't believe they require a slack tube gauge. I was going to buy one once and then someone showed me a digital one.
> 
> It is cool that you were able to learn how to use it for a test. Though, you may never need it again unless you do gas work in that area again. Now you will have to find reasons to use it. What did it run you? The one I was going to buy ran $75 from Grainger.












The manometer with 3' of rubber tubing and the "serviceman's friend" fitting totaled about $75.
I had a U-tube manometer some years ago, but got rid of it; the fluorescent fluid in it dried out and the tubing was kind of dirty, so I chucked it....


----------



## Caduceus

Will said:


> We test 15psi here on a 30 psi gauge. Overkill


Wow. That IS overkill. I hope CSST isn't approved for use in your area since it's only rated for 5 psi.


----------



## Will

Caduceus said:


> Wow. That IS overkill. I hope CSST isn't approved for use in your area since it's only rated for 5 psi.


Gastite is approved for 5psi, but it can take way more pressure than that. The tubing burst at 1500 psi, in fact gastite recomends 50 psi test


----------



## LIQUID

Tommy plumber said:


> I passed my rough gas inspection with a gauge. While the inspector was there speaking with me, he mentioned that for the final gas inspection, the city of Gainesville requires a U-tube manometer for their test. So I just did what they wanted.


Fair enough, I just dont understand he blowing into the tube.. also you can make a u tube manometer super easy so don't buy one costs under $5 and is just as accurate. 
I still fail to undrrstand why you would not just check the meter with appliances off, it would show any leak present easy.. ( I think gainesville is odd now ) is the meter not hooked up or something ?


----------



## LIQUID

Tommy plumber said:


> The manometer with 3' of rubber tubing and the "serviceman's friend" fitting totaled about $75.
> I had a U-tube manometer some years ago, but got rid of it; the fluorescent fluid in it dried out and the tubing was kind of dirty, so I chucked it....


Build one.. if its winter add a bit of anti freeze. Under $5 if you pay more you are robbing yourself.


----------



## Tommy plumber

LIQUID said:


> Build one.. if its winter add a bit of anti freeze. Under $5 if you pay more you are robbing yourself.











I was going to, in fact the inspector told me that if I did, it would be acceptable. Some tubing attached to a board with a number scale behind it. But it was easier to purchase one and the tubing they sold me at the supply house fit perfectly. 

There was enough money in the job to pay for the manometer.


----------



## Tommy plumber

LIQUID said:


> Fair enough, I just dont understand he blowing into the tube.. also you can make a u tube manometer super easy so don't buy one costs under $5 and is just as accurate.
> I still fail to undrrstand why you would not just check the meter with appliances off, it would show any leak present easy.. ( I think gainesville is odd now ) * is the meter not hooked up or something ?*












Bingo! Look at the picture closely, the gas meter is locked.


----------



## jc2002

around here the inspectors only make sure u use approved pipe fitting and that its supported. Gas company does there own pressure test but we use the manometer to check for leaks beacuse if where there to fix a leak the gas company locks them out unless they call use first then we use a gas snifer


----------



## LIQUID

This site makes me laugh so often.... seriously I cannot delete my account?


----------



## LIQUID

Tommy plumber said:


> I was going to, in fact the inspector told me that if I did, it would be acceptable. Some tubing attached to a board with a number scale behind it. But it was easier to purchase one and the tubing they sold me at the supply house fit perfectly.
> 
> There was enough money in the job to pay for the manometer.


Easier to pay for than to but some 1/4" tubing for 2 $ and mount it to a 2x6 ? And write with a sharpie on it? Are you sure you should be plumbing?


----------



## LIQUID

Tommy plumber said:


> Bingo! Look at the picture closely, the gas meter is locked.



Can't see it. I take your word.. a pressure test with a guage would be a better test than randomly blowing In to a pipe to try to preserve an unknown psi that has fluctuated when you attempted to attach the tubing... this seems like a shoddy way to "test" anything.


----------



## Tommy plumber

LIQUID said:


> *Can't see it. *I take your word.. a pressure test with a guage would be a better test than randomly blowing In to a pipe to try to preserve an unknown psi that has fluctuated when you attempted to attach the tubing... this seems like a shoddy way to "test" anything.












If you can't recognize a locked gas meter when you look at it, then maybe you're the one who shouldn't be plumbing...:whistling2:


----------



## Tommy plumber

LIQUID said:


> Easier to pay for than to but some 1/4" tubing for 2 $ and mount it to a 2x6 ? And write with a sharpie on it? *Are you sure you **should be plumbing?*










Quite sure. And so is the state of Florida.


----------



## Best Darn Sewer

LIQUID said:


> This site makes me laugh so often.... seriously I cannot delete my account?


Why would you want to delete your account when you are so often entertained by the site?


----------



## LIQUID

Bad pic..


----------



## LIQUID

Tommy plumber said:


> If you can't recognize a locked gas meter when you look at it, then maybe you're the one who shouldn't be plumbing...:whistling2:


Can't see your **** picture on my s3. Anyways I'm done explaining to you the intricate ways in which you are an Idiot.


----------



## LIQUID

Best Darn Sewer said:


> Why would you want to delete your account when you are so often entertained by the site?


Because all I hear on this site are people who know everything and can't take any advice without being a dick. It entertaining in a "wow this site teaches nothing and is kinda sad" way. You want to spend 85 $ on a meter you can build easy for cheap... have at er champ


----------



## plbgbiz

LIQUID said:


> Can't see your **** picture on my s3. Anyways I'm done explaining to you the intricate ways in which you are an Idiot.


If you cannot make your points without name calling, just keep it to yourself.


----------



## Best Darn Sewer

LIQUID said:


> Because all I hear on this site are people who know everything and can't take any advice without being a dick. It entertaining in a "wow this site teaches nothing and is kinda sad" way. You want to spend 85 $ on a meter you can build easy for cheap... have at er champ


Oh. Well now it all makes sense. You are just baiting people in. Have fun with that.


----------



## Best Darn Sewer

Liquid, I hope that you can figure out what it is that you are angry at, man.


----------



## rjbphd

Liqiud. I checked the pix, clearly see the gas meter locked...


----------



## LIQUID

Meh... florida, it makes sense now.. lol


----------



## LIQUID

Best Darn Sewer said:


> Liquid, I hope that you can figure out what it is that you are angry at, man.


I don't get angry man... I just fail to understand why you cannot accept that it would be easy to mount some rubber tubing to a board, am I being too sensiblle to you? Or do you just like spending extra cash on stuff? 

Also rbhplx ( whatever your name is ) I can't see much on my phone these days, screen protector is in some bad shape.. or Is it you trying to bait me now? I will continue to think this site is full of dicks... why can I not just delete my account? I honestlly dont want any association with this site or its members ( not all of them are dicks but.... ) and would be happy to reverse time and never have created an account.


----------



## love2surf927

LIQUID said:


> I don't get angry man... I just fail to understand why you cannot accept that it would be easy to mount some rubber tubing to a board, am I being too sensiblle to you? Or do you just like spending extra cash on stuff?
> 
> Also rbhplx ( whatever your name is ) I can't see much on my phone these days, screen protector is in some bad shape.. or Is it you trying to bait me now? I will continue to think this site is full of dicks... why can I not just delete my account? I honestlly dont want any association with this site or its members ( not all of them are dicks but.... ) and would be happy to reverse time and never have created an account.


In all honesty it IS MUCH easier to BUY it than make it. Don't get pissy just because someone doesn't agree with you. I agree it is absolutely CHEAPER to make one but not easier. It just depends on how you wish to approach the situation. It's not your judgement to make what's easier or better for him because everyone does everything differently. Don't get your panties in a twist because someone didn't do what you thought was right. Just my two cents and I think you have had some valuable input around here but everyone here that lasts knows you have to have a thick skin and brush off the egos there IS much to be learned here regardless of what you think. You don't have to delete your account just don't come here anymore, it's called self control, unless of course your addicted, lol, than you may need a twelve step. Haha peace


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

Then just don't log in Its not like the site makes you. Just don't come back. Am I making to much sense for you ?? I just can't understand why if you don't want to be here then why come back ???

Mostly all you've done is talk chit any ways. So it's not like you contributed any thing worth while 

Ur defiantly not getting an invite to the club house. You'd get ate alive!!


----------



## plbgbiz

LIQUID said:


> .... would be happy to reverse time and never have created an account.


...


----------



## wyrickmech

LIQUID said:


> I don't get angry man... I just fail to understand why you cannot accept that it would be easy to mount some rubber tubing to a board, am I being too sensiblle to you? Or do you just like spending extra cash on stuff? Also rbhplx ( whatever your name is ) I can't see much on my phone these days, screen protector is in some bad shape.. or Is it you trying to bait me now? I will continue to think this site is full of dicks... why can I not just delete my account? I honestlly dont want any association with this site or its members ( not all of them are dicks but.... ) and would be happy to reverse time and never have created an account.


think of it this way if you where a inspector and you came out to inspect a liquid manometer what would you think. If you had a guy with a sharpie a board and a piece of tube two hole strapped down you would think he was a fly by night. To be a pro you have to have the tools and knowledge. You have to appear like you know what you are doing or nobody will hire you.


----------



## newyorkcity

Liquid:
You have latched onto this idea that Tommy Plumber must make his own manometer or he is a hack in your eyes. And you won't let go...to the point where you are calling him names.:blink:
I will vouch that Tommy Plumber is an asset to the trade, and more importantly, is a good person.
I think this is an illustration of the courage people get within the safety of their surroundings behind a keyboard. Similar to the courage people get in a car when they are surrounded by two tons of metal and they feel impervious to their surroundings.
Somehow I don't see Liquid going into a plumbing supply and calling someone a hack who chooses to buy a manometer...:whistling2:
Mods: Liquid is requesting that his membership be terminated. Please grant him his wish. Seems like "The Master" in training...:laughing:


----------



## plbgbiz

newyorkcity said:


> ...Mods: Liquid is requesting that his membership be terminated. Please grant him his wish. Seems like "The Master" in training...:laughing:


I guess I should have added a caption to the photo I posted....

Elvis has left the building. :yes:


----------



## jeffreyplumber

good for you passed inspection! that's pretty important.  I never heard of such nonsense for a gas test on a house! Sometimes rather than challenge an inspector I just do what he says. Sometimes I will challenge. it would be interesting to see their Gainsville plumbing code book.


----------



## Tommy plumber

jeffreyplumber said:


> good for you passed inspection! that's pretty important. I never heard of such nonsense for a gas test on a house! Sometimes rather than challenge an inspector I just do what he says. Sometimes I will challenge. * it would be interesting to see their Gainsville **plumbing code book.*













The inspector informed me when he passed my rough gas line inspection that the city requires the U-tube manometer, so I just did what he asked. I needed {4} inspections on that job; {2} for plumbing and {2} for the gas. After the final gas inspection, I got my last check.


----------



## theplumbinator

Here in North Jersey we have one town with an A$$wipe for an inspector. He makes us go through all kinds of hell to do gas inspections. We have to go buy a special 5lb. Gauge that conveniently the hardware store in town, (that his brother owns) sells for the reasonable price of $100. We call it a Bauer gauge after him. He makes us fill it while he is there then he waits 15 min and lets out 2 lbs then waits a while and lets out a little more. Takes about 45 freaking minutes for an inspection. Once he started tapping on my gauge with a screwdriver. I told him if he touched it again I would break his old decrepit fingers. He was always extra nice to me after that day. I keep the gauge in a foam filled case inside the truck and it only comes out for that one town. I have turned down work there because I cant stand dealing with the building department there.


----------



## stecar

Ever work in Teaneck? Now that guy is a scumbag. Got a letter from the town admin asking us to write a letter about him. Never seen that before, do I guess I wasnt the only guy with that opinion.


----------



## jeffreyplumber

Sometimes just got to give them what they want after all we want to finish the job and get paid... But it just aint right! Our code is pretty easy and a slow leak can go undetected on a 10 pound 15 minitue test. most inspectors really rely on us to be doing an honest test.


----------



## theplumbinator

stecar said:


> Ever work in Teaneck? Now that guy is a scumbag. Got a letter from the town admin asking us to write a letter about him. Never seen that before, do I guess I wasnt the only guy with that opinion.


Never worked there. Gave a boiler estimate once to a Korean guy, but he didn't have the $. That is odd for the town to ask you what you think of their employee. My advice if you get any work in Parsippany that requires inspection, charge extra for the aggravation that will come.


----------



## plumbdrum

On larger gas systems I require a Chart Recorder with the required PSI for the test, depending on operating pressure. 1 HR per 100', very accurate test.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## sparky

plumbdrum said:


> On larger gas systems I require a Chart Recorder with the required PSI for the test, depending on operating pressure. 1 HR per 100', very accurate test.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


please elaborate,kinda got the fuzzies after reading this.....


----------



## plumbdrum

sparky said:


> please elaborate,kinda got the fuzzies after reading this.....


what don't you understand?

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## plbgbiz

Rather than a meter just dropping with a leak, the chart recorder is more sensitive and provides a written record.


----------



## plumbdrum

plbgbiz said:


> Rather than a meter just dropping with a leak, the chart recorder is more sensitive and provides a written record.


My man plb gets the prize, it's in my opinion the most accurate test along with a gauge .

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## plumbdrum

I require it with 100+ feet of pipe . 1hr per 100' not to exceed 24hrs. 3lbs for 1/2 psi. 10 times working pressure over 1/2psi

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## love2surf927

How does a chart recorder work?


----------



## plumbdrum

https://www.google.com/search?q=gas+chart+recorder&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&client=safari

It hooks on to your gauge and shows very accurate changes in pressure.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## wyrickmech

We just simply test threaded gas at 30psi and welded lines at 60 psi. Two hour test with no pressure drop. Larger lines or longer does not really make a difference. When posable I will charge a line to 90 psi and break union at the equipment let set for 24 hours. If you put your gage set on in the morning and there is a slight leak you will not see it tell late afternoon.


----------



## plumbdrum

Does your Gauge have 1/10 increments? On larger diameter pipes threaded or welded with large amounts of volume it may not show a pressure loss on a gauge, that's why the chart recorder IS the most accurate on large installations.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## wyrickmech

plumbdrum said:


> Does your Gauge have 1/10 increments? On larger diameter pipes threaded or welded with large amounts of volume it may not show a pressure loss on a gauge, that's why the chart recorder IS the most accurate on large installations. Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


 it's not needed on a 24 hour test. Measuring 1/10 psi is not feasible sense temperature change will fluctuate the line pressure by a larger amount than a tenth. High pressure and time will show a drop if there is one. My tests of 60 have raised to almost 80 just from temperature then drop back to 50 at night but no leaks. On a 24 hour test you can check at the same time of day and temp. If a gage still has the same pressure on that test there will be no doubt of its integrity.


----------



## plumbdrum

Last winter I had a situation on a 5 psi system with well over 1000' of 4" welded. Contractor put a 50 psi test it all looked good until I asked for the chart recorder with a 24 hr test. Lost 15 psi on the chart, most large volume systems will not show much of a drop on a gauge. Chart recorder is the most accurate and proven testing method+ plus the fact that you have visual timeline of the tests in the set amount of time shows all temp swings a micro leaks that gauges don't show. 1/10 increments also show minor leaks better than a traditional PSI gauge which you would use in relation with the chart recorder for reference to each other.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## love2surf927

plumbdrum said:


> Last winter I had a situation on a 5 psi system with well over 1000' of 4" welded. Contractor put a 50 psi test it all looked good until I asked for the chart recorder with a 24 hr test. Lost 15 psi on the chart, most large volume systems will not show much of a drop on a gauge. Chart recorder is the most accurate and proven testing method+ plus the fact that you have visual timeline of the tests in the set amount of time shows all temp swings a micro leaks that gauges don't show. 1/10 increments also show minor leaks better than a traditional PSI gauge which you would use in relation with the chart recorder for reference to each other.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


Excuse my ignorance here but how does a system lose 15 psi and bit show on a gauge. How does the size of the system matter 15 psi is 15 psi. Not arguing just curious I'm strictly residential.


----------



## wyrickmech

love2surf927 said:


> Excuse my ignorance here but how does a system lose 15 psi and bit show on a gauge. How does the size of the system matter 15 psi is 15 psi. Not arguing just curious I'm strictly residential.


 the gage will show a 15 pound drop. If you have a small leak it will not show on a small increment as in 1/10 until the temp is the same as the temp when you started the test. That is why you do a 24hour test you will still see a 15 pound drop and if your gage is flawed you need to replace it. 50 pounds sounds a little low for 5 lb system we require 60 lb on oz system 100lb on 2 lb.


----------



## love2surf927

wyrickmech said:


> the gage will show a 15 pound drop. If you have a small leak it will not show on a small increment as in 1/10 until the temp is the same as the temp when you started the test. That is why you do a 24hour test you will still see a 15 pound drop and if your gage is flawed you need to replace it. 50 pounds sounds a little low for 5 lb system we require 60 lb on oz system 100lb on 2 lb.


I get that but post above says on the chart it lost 15 psi but didn't show on the gauge. Maybe I misunderstood.


----------



## wyrickmech

love2surf927 said:


> I get that but post above says on the chart it lost 15 psi but didn't show on the gauge. Maybe I misunderstood.


just a fancy gage. A drop of 1 psi is noticeable on a good gage and you shure in hell better be able to see 15 psi. The thing about testing is whatever you are testing you need the proper setup on a gage. A 30 pound test you would want a gage that maxed out close to the test pressure but not under it. This would keep the increments as small as posable. For instance I have gage set ups for 250 on my med gas but I test at 200 psi if I switched that gage to a gas test rig that I was only going to test at 50 psi it would be less accurate and would take a larger drop to effect the gage. If you placed a 60 pound gage on a rig and tested at 50 pounds it would show a lot smaller drop. The end product is your gas has to hold a pressure for a pre determined time, if it doesn't you fix the problem.


----------



## sparky

wyrickmech said:


> We just simply test threaded gas at 30psi and welded lines at 60 psi. Two hour test with no pressure drop. Larger lines or longer does not really make a difference. When posable I will charge a line to 90 psi and break union at the equipment let set for 24 hours. If you put your gage set on in the morning and there is a slight leak you will not see it tell late afternoon.


Looks like if your line is just gonna have ounces on it why test with so high pressure?isnt that a chance to create a leak that wouldn't be there if tested with lower pressure


----------



## sparky

wyrickmech said:


> just a fancy gage. A drop of 1 psi is noticeable on a good gage and you shure in hell better be able to see 15 psi. The thing about testing is whatever you are testing you need the proper setup on a gage. A 30 pound test you would want a gage that maxed out close to the test pressure but not under it. This would keep the increments as small as posable. For instance I have gage set ups for 250 on my med gas but I test at 200 psi if I switched that gage to a gas test rig that I was only going to test at 50 psi it would be less accurate and would take a larger drop to effect the gage. If you placed a 60 pound gage on a rig and tested at 50 pounds it would show a lot smaller drop. The end product is your gas has to hold a pressure for a pre determined time, if it doesn't you fix the problem.


I have seen these type gauges before but we are not required to use them here in ky,but the gas supplier uses them on their station meters or master meters as we used to change the charts for them and add ink to them as we'll but that has been yrs ago now


----------



## wyrickmech

sparky said:


> Looks like if your line is just gonna have ounces on it why test with so high pressure?isnt that a chance to create a leak that wouldn't be there if tested with lower pressure


 no the thinking is it is sch 40 the fittings are rated for 125 psi so there should not be any leaks at the higher pressure. I have seen a line leak down then hold at a lower pressure normally packing. Just similar to a sprinkler test you don't test the line for what's in it you test the line against its capable work load.


----------



## sparky

wyrickmech said:


> no the thinking is it is sch 40 the fittings are rated for 125 psi so there should not be any leaks at the higher pressure. I have seen a line leak down then hold at a lower pressure normally packing. Just similar to a sprinkler test you don't test the line for what's in it you test the line against its capable work load.


What you just described bout the line leaking down then holding steady is reason I asked that ? While ago as I have ran across that situation where it leaked down then held tight.thanks for clearing that up,makes good sense


----------



## Best Darn Sewer

love2surf927 said:


> Excuse my ignorance here but how does a system lose 15 psi and bit show on a gauge. How does the size of the system matter 15 psi is 15 psi. Not arguing just curious I'm strictly residential.


He said it barely indicates a leak on the standard PSI gauge. The reason the size matters is due to what PSI stands for: per square inch. On a system he described with 1000' of 4" pipe that is a lot of surface area. So each square inch of interior wall of that pipe has 50 lbs of pressure against it. For the pressure to drop one pound takes a huge loss in volume because of the large amount of surface area in the pipe hence a 1 lb increment gauge won't read a loss very quickly on that size of a system. Using a more sensitive gauge will show a drop quickly and more effectively.


----------



## love2surf927

Best Darn Sewer said:


> The reason it matters is due to what PSI stands for: per square inch. On a system he described with 1000' of 4" pipe that is a lot of surface area. So for each square inch of the interior wall of that pipe has 50 lbs of pressure against it. For the pressure to drop one pound is a huge loss in volume because of the large amount of surface area hence a 1 lb increment gauge won't read a loss very quickly. Using a more sensitive gauge will show a drop quickly.


Thanks that makes perfect sense!


----------



## plumbdrum

Best Darn Sewer said:


> He said it barely indicates a leak on the standard PSI gauge. The reason the size matters is due to what PSI stands for: per square inch. On a system he described with 1000' of 4" pipe that is a lot of surface area. So each square inch of interior wall of that pipe has 50 lbs of pressure against it. For the pressure to drop one pound takes a huge loss in volume because of the large amount of surface area in the pipe hence a 1 lb increment gauge won't read a loss very quickly on that size of a system. Using a more sensitive gauge will show a drop quickly and more effectively.




Bingo!!!!!

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## plumbdrum

wyrickmech said:


> the gage will show a 15 pound drop. If you have a small leak it will not show on a small increment as in 1/10 until the temp is the same as the temp when you started the test. That is why you do a 24hour test you will still see a 15 pound drop and if your gage is flawed you need to replace it. 50 pounds sounds a little low for 5 lb system we require 60 lb on oz system 100lb on 2 lb.



Oz system? In Ma , to which the board has made modifications to NFPA 54, states that 1/2 or up to 14" water column is low pressure to which it gets tested to 3 psi for 10 min. Pressures over that require 10 the working pressure. For lengths exceeding 100' it's an hour per 100' not to exceed 24hrs. When I get to my office this morning I will take a picture of my modifications in my book. I'm sure it's different procedures elsewhere .

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## wyrickmech

plumbdrum said:


> Oz system? In Ma , to which the board has made modifications to NFPA 54, states that 1/2 or up to 14" water column is low pressure to which it gets tested to 3 psi for 10 min. Pressures over that require 10 the working pressure. For lengths exceeding 100' it's an hour per 100' not to exceed 24hrs. When I get to my office this morning I will take a picture of my modifications in my book. I'm sure it's different procedures elsewhere . Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


 I still disagree with the mindset of low pressure testing heck I have seen weld slag hold 5 pounds but come out at higher pressures. The thought pattern behind our testing is you are testing the line for its integral strength that it is rated for. In that mindset drainage piping would never get a test.


----------



## plumbdrum

The welding requirements are different, sorry, going off memory with no code book until now

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## BC73RS

Wow' so if your system is 14" then it's a 5 psi test, remarkable. Here in BC our lowest test is 15 psi. Then on the other hand 50 psi max., unless it's liquid propane, then it's 100psi.


----------



## wyrickmech

BC73RS said:


> Wow' so if your system is 14" then it's a 5 psi test, remarkable. Here in BC our lowest test is 15 psi. Then on the other hand 50 psi max., unless it's liquid propane, then it's 100psi.


here in the states not all jurisdictions do it this way. I had a LP liquid line off of three 36,000 gal tanks that required a 1100 psi test. All welded lines we test at a min of 60 psi and 30 on threaded lines. Just for safety I normally just run it up to 90 to 100.


----------



## plumbdrum

BC73RS said:


> Wow' so if your system is 14" then it's a 5 psi test, remarkable. Here in BC our lowest test is 15 psi. Then on the other hand 50 psi max., unless it's liquid propane, then it's 100psi.



In Ma it is illegal to run elevated gas pressures in any building without special permission from the state board. 1/2psi or 14" W.C is max pressure. It is required that you use a low pressure gauge showing 1/10 increments for 10 min, most instances 3 psi will suffice

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## wyrickmech

plumbdrum said:


> In Ma it is illegal to run elevated gas pressures in any building without special permission from the state board. 1/2psi or 14" W.C is max pressure. It is required that you use a low pressure gauge showing 1/10 increments for 10 min, most instances 3 psi will suffice Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


for safety I wouldn't want elevated gas pressure in a building that only had tested it gas to that tolerance. I can shove a potato spud in a line and hold three psi or crank a fitting on hand tight that is why we elevate our test pressure. We use to have the same rule about 15 years ago but now 2 psi is allowed in a building. Makes life a lot easier and the lines a lot smaller. Had two boilers last year that required 2 psi gas, still had to run a 4 in line. Man was startup fun on them.


----------



## plumbdrum

wyrickmech said:


> for safety I wouldn't want elevated gas pressure in a building that only had tested it gas to that tolerance. I can shove a potato spud in a line and hold three psi or crank a fitting on hand tight that is why we elevate our test pressure. We use to have the same rule about 15 years ago but now 2 psi is allowed in a building. Makes life a lot easier and the lines a lot smaller. Had two boilers last year that required 2 psi gas, still had to run a 4 in line. Man was startup fun on them.


Didn't say it couldn't be done, just need permission and usually requires an engineers design and stamp. There is no need to have elevated pressure in residential applications, who cares if you have to run larger pipes. Eliminates the need for multiple regulators on equipment that could fail plus the fact that it can expensive to purchase them.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## plumbdrum

plumbdrum said:


> Didn't say it couldn't be done, just need permission and usually requires an engineers design and stamp. There is no need to have elevated pressure in residential applications, who cares if you have to run larger pipes. Eliminates the need for multiple regulators on equipment that could fail plus the fact that it can expensive to purchase them. Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


and also if you read Ma state regulations on the testing for elevated pressures it is tested has to be tested 10 times the proposed working pressure. So a 2 lb system tested to 20 psi with a proper gauge and chart recorder will be more accurate test than throwing 50 psi gauge with no chart recorder.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## BC73RS

plumbdrum said:


> Didn't say it couldn't be done, just need permission and usually requires an engineers design and stamp. There is no need to have elevated pressure in residential applications, who cares if you have to run larger pipes. Eliminates the need for multiple regulators on equipment that could fail plus the fact that it can expensive to purchase them.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


Agree simple is good. Also in our code it is allowed to build a manifold within 2' of the meter and home run appliances or run multiple branches. Works well if the meter is centrally located on a large house.


----------



## wyrickmech

plumbdrum said:


> and also if you read Ma state regulations on the testing for elevated pressures it is tested has to be tested 10 times the proposed working pressure. So a 2 lb system tested to 20 psi with a proper gauge and chart recorder will be more accurate test than throwing 50 psi gauge with no chart recorder. Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


for one you never said anything about residential applications and two you would need a recorder on low pressure applications because there is no way you would tell if you had a leak. You could hold that kind of a test with a garden hose. Lol we require a higher pressure test on our sanitary sewer than you do on your gas. Just out of curiosity how many gas related fires do you have in a years time?


----------



## plumbdrum

wyrickmech said:


> for one you never said anything about residential applications and two you would need a recorder on low pressure applications because there is no way you would tell if you had a leak. You could hold that kind of a test with a garden hose. Lol we require a higher pressure test on our sanitary sewer than you do on your gas. Just out of curiosity how many gas related fires do you have in a years time?


1- why does it matter if I said residential?, usually elevated pressures don't kick in until we have large piping systems which is usually commercial.
2- The Commonwealth of Massachusetts has 1 of if not the most strictest plumbing and gas codes in the country. For which I'm proud to say I enforce that code proudly
3- the commonwealth uses NFPA 54 to which as far as I know the test of the country does and made its own amendments to with input from the plumbing board which consists of Plumbers, Gas Fitters , Plumbing and Gas Engineers.to which I'm sure the amendments that they have made were thorough .
4. I read about more explosions in other parts of the country and very few in ours.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## wyrickmech

I have seen 2 lb on residential applications ,it depends on the load that you want at the source it's not always the simplest thing to go bigger. The low pressure test does nothing but set you up for problems down the road you could tighten a gas line tight enough to hold 3 psi without wrenches if you had a good brand of thread sealant. Just seems short sighted to make such a low test when expansion and contraction will listen joints over time when they are not tight.


----------



## Tommy plumber

wyrickmech said:


> *Just seems short sighted to make such a low test when expansion and contraction will listen joints **over time when they are not tight*.











Rough inspection is at a higher PSI. 25 psi for example. Final gas test is alot lower, in WC.

Lower pressure is alot more sensitive. On a 500 PSI guage, you'll never notice a 1/2 PSI pressure drop; but with a pressure test of 14 W.C., a 1/2 PSI drop in pressure will show up very clearly.


----------



## plumbdrum

Again this is a situation with varying codes and opinions, this could go on forever. I posted pictures of 2 pages of my state code, that's what I have to enforce during the inspections I perform. The methods of THIS state are safe and thorough and feel VERY confident in these methods.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## justme

We just use a certified 30# diaphragm gauge and yes it has tenth of pound marks.


----------



## wyrickmech

Tommy plumber said:


> Rough inspection is at a higher PSI. 25 psi for example. Final gas test is alot lower, in WC. Lower pressure is alot more sensitive. On a 500 PSI guage, you'll never notice a 1/2 PSI pressure drop; but with a pressure test of 14 W.C., a 1/2 PSI drop in pressure will show up very clearly.


 nobody in there right mind would use a 500 pound gage. I still say it is very unprofessional to put a test on a line that you could hand tighten every joint and pass. And yes if you had a 14in test on a line and you lost a 1/2 pound I do believe you would notice sense it would be zero or maybe you would have maybe .05 in left depending on altitude.


----------



## plumbdrum

Unprofessional , are freakin kidding me buddy?

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## plumbdrum

Also, I just checked NFPA-54, not my state modifications. 7.1.4. This must be the same code that all the " unprofessional" gasfitter's use.i don't just trough arbitrary test pressures out, I m in the code everyday being a full time inspector. So, unless you can show me a state modification to NFPA-54 about testing low pressure. I suggest you keep your UNPROFESSIONAL comments to yourself.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## wyrickmech

plumbdrum said:


> Also, I just checked NFPA-54, not my state modifications. 7.1.4. This must be the same code that all the " unprofessional" gasfitter's use.i don't just trough arbitrary test pressures out, I m in the code everyday being a full time inspector. So, unless you can show me a state modification to NFPA-54 about testing low pressure. I suggest you keep your UNPROFESSIONAL comments to yourself. Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


that's what a paper pushing non tradesman would say. Low pressure test does show leaks faster because there isn't as much to leak but a test is to test the integrity of the piping system. Testing to such a low standard gives no safety factor. I have run into situations where lines on boilers and roofs have leaked over time due to loose fittings that passed such test. You have to look at long term system integrity and low pressure tests don't cut it.


----------



## plumbdrum

Non tradesman? Really your going to go there, I turned wrenches for years , how dare you call me that . Just because I hung up the tools doesn't make me a non tradesman. You my friend sound like a very ignorant person for make a comment like that. My paper pushing ass would have a field day with a tool like you on a inspection. Fortunately for me your not smart enough to hold a Ma license.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## wyrickmech

plumbdrum said:


> Non tradesman? Really your going to go there, I turned wrenches for years , how dare you call me that . Just because I hung up the tools doesn't make me a non tradesman. You my friend sound like a very ignorant person for make a comment like that. My paper pushing ass would have a field day with a tool like you on a inspection. Fortunately for me your not smart enough to hold a Ma license. Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


I've chewed inspectors like you up for lunch


----------



## Tommy plumber

A reminder before any member{s} get{s} slapped and this thread {which I started} gets shut down: personal attacks, name-calling and other nasty remarks are against Plumbing Zone policy and that policy will be enforced.


----------



## sparky

wyrickmech said:


> I've chewed inspectors like you up for lunch


Ding ding ding jerry jerry jerry. Security


----------



## plumbdrum

My apologies , but the point is we all pretty much adhere to the same codes. The fact that he cannot accept that all he has is his opinions about testing. NFPA 54 was written by people a hell of a lot smarter than all of us, I trust in it , my own states amendments and my ability to enforce such codes. Keep chewing

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## BC73RS

Well I for one was cutting and threading up to 200' in my hay day , do you one think I had the time to put a 3 or 5 pound test on the system, no. 
What I did was at the end of every shift was pump it up to 50#, why not, time is money and unions are a no go. I'm talking about a condo with 1500' in it, ok.
Here is the kicker, I soap tested each joint, yes each joint.
At 50 psi. If I had one well...pppfffftttt.
To me a gauge means squat. 
If you suspect a gas leak I'll find it.
Signed 30 year gas ticket holder.


----------



## BC73RS

When it comes to gas I just don't trust gauges, you can include inspectors, everybody on this web site and the internet.
The only one I trust in me.


----------



## sparky

BC73RS said:


> When it comes to gas I just don't trust gauges, you can include inspectors, everybody on this web site and the internet.
> The only one I trust in me.


them gas gauges will chew you up and spit you out. Naw just kidden


----------



## BC73RS

sparky said:


> them gas gauges will chew you up and spit you out. Naw just kidden


A little history on me, if you will. Eleven years at CP Rail, piping air brake systems. 
Compressors kicks in at 130 psi and cuts out at 150 psi.
Can you imagine the testing of the gauges we had to use? Westinghouse only of course.
When I went to night school to get my gas ticket and found out that gas flowed at 14'" and was to be tested at 15 psi?
Good God, I bit my tongue to hold back the laughter.
Everybody is concerned about gas, well trains kill too.


----------



## sparky

BC73RS said:


> A little history on me, if you will. Eleven years at CP Rail, piping air brake systems.
> Compressors kicks in at 130 psi and cuts out at 150 psi.
> Can you imagine the testing of the gauges we had to use? Westinghouse only of course.
> When I went to night school to get my gas ticket and found out that gas flowed at 14'" and was to be tested at 15 psi?
> Good God, I bit my tongue to hold back the laughter.
> Everybody is concerned about gas, well trains kill too.



Cool,I hear ya brother,probably is little overkill


----------



## plumbdrum

Choo, choo

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## Tommy plumber

Had another gas line inspection in Gainesville, FL. I used red Gatorade in the manometer so it's easy to see the liquid's level. This was the final gas inspection for a pool heater gas line that I installed.


----------



## Best Darn Sewer

Tommy plumber said:


> Had another gas line inspection in Gainesville, FL. I used red Gatorade in the manometer so it's easy to see the liquid's level. This was the final gas inspection for a pool heater gas line that I installed.


Good idea, man. Nice looking work.


----------



## BC73RS

Nice clean work Tommy, makes me wonder though, here in B.C. we can't use galvanized pipe and fittings due to the sulphur content according to the code. Why is it that Florida and California allows it? Confused here.


----------



## plumbdrum

Tommy plumber said:


> Had another gas line inspection in Gainesville, FL. I used red Gatorade in the manometer so it's easy to see the liquid's level. This was the final gas inspection for a pool heater gas line that I installed.



Where is the exhaust on the pool heater? Should the vent on the regulator be piped away? Nice looking job

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## plumbdrum

Tommy plumber said:


> Had another gas line inspection in Gainesville, FL. I used red Gatorade in the manometer so it's easy to see the liquid's level. This was the final gas inspection for a pool heater gas line that I installed.


Also how much pressure is the test on, will it cause damage to the gas valve on heater from where your testing from?

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## Tommy plumber

BC73RS said:


> Nice clean work Tommy, makes me wonder though, here in B.C. we can't use galvanized pipe and fittings due to the sulphur content according to the code. Why is it that Florida and California allows it? Confused here.












Galvanized is permitted for gas lines. But it can't be used below ground since it rusts.


----------



## Tommy plumber

plumbdrum said:


> Where is the exhaust on the pool heater? Should the vent on the regulator be piped away? Nice looking job
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone










Pool heater exhaust is on the top.


----------



## plumbdrum

Tommy plumber said:


> Pool heater exhaust is on the top.


Cool, nice job

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## Tommy plumber

plumbdrum said:


> Also how much pressure is the test on, will it cause damage to the gas valve on heater from where your testing from?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone










Gas company installed a 2-lb meter; they stepped down the pressure with a regulator for the appliances in the home. I ran 2-lb to the pool heater and stepped it down with the regulator. The photo of the manometer shows 8" w.c. going into the pool heater.

Some guys here get all worked up over having to use a U-tube manometer for a final gas test, but that's what the city of Gainesville requires. They won't pass a gas final without it.


----------



## Tommy plumber

I installed PE from the gas meter to back of the house, then installed the last 25' in galvanized to the pool heater.


----------



## plumbdrum

Tommy plumber said:


> Gas company installed a 2-lb meter; they stepped down the pressure with a regulator for the appliances in the home. I ran 2-lb to the pool heater and stepped it down with the regulator. The photo of the manometer shows 8" w.c. going into the pool heater. Some guys here get all worked up over having to use a U-tube manometer for a final gas test, but that's what the city of Gainesville requires. They won't pass a gas final without it.


I've never used one so I'm curios if the placement of your test would the pressure damage your gas valve? Or is it valves or capped before the valve. Maybe I should say appliance gas valve, not your gas shutoff valve.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## plumbdrum

Figured it out, Gas is on , liquid acts as a trap and pushes the gas to show your liquid lever to gauge it? Cool if it is, I've seen them before but in 27 years of doing this never seen 1 in action.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## Best Darn Sewer

Tommy plumber said:


> I installed PE from the gas meter to back of the house, then installed the last 25' in galvanized to the pool heater.



Looks good, Tommy. Nice clean work.


----------



## Leach713

Tommy plumber said:


> Gas company installed a 2-lb meter; they stepped down the pressure with a regulator for the appliances in the home. I ran 2-lb to the pool heater and stepped it down with the regulator. The photo of the manometer shows 8" w.c. going into the pool heater. Some guys here get all worked up over having to use a U-tube manometer for a final gas test, but that's what the city of Gainesville requires. They won't pass a gas final without it.


So how exactly do you read that?
Just from looking at it I thought it was 4.4 wc but
How does that manometer work? 
I have always seen the test gauges


----------



## Will

Nice work. I an do pool heaters. There good steady jobs.


----------



## wyrickmech

Leach713 said:


> So how exactly do you read that? Just from looking at it I thought it was 4.4 wc but How does that manometer work? I have always seen the test gauges


read the inch marks between the two readings. Water column is a deferential reading when at rest the two columns would be reading the same.


----------



## Best Darn Sewer

Leach713 said:


> So how exactly do you read that?
> Just from looking at it I thought it was 4.4 wc but
> How does that manometer work?
> I have always seen the test gauges


The liklihood of you ever needing to use one is slim as long as you work in Houston. I bought one years ago and learned how to use it. Then I got the digital manometer for $250 and never looked back. Its still good to know about the different gauges work.


----------



## plumbdrum

Tommy plumber said:


> Gas company installed a 2-lb meter; they stepped down the pressure with a regulator for the appliances in the home. I ran 2-lb to the pool heater and stepped it down with the regulator. The photo of the manometer shows 8" w.c. going into the pool heater. Some guys here get all worked up over having to use a U-tube manometer for a final gas test, but that's what the city of Gainesville requires. They won't pass a gas final without it.


So looking at your pics again, are you measuring manifold pressure and pressure drop with heater running? Or is that a pressure test looking for leaks?

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## Tommy plumber

plumbdrum said:


> So looking at your pics again, are you measuring manifold pressure and pressure drop with heater running? Or is that a pressure test looking for leaks?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone












It is a pressure test for the final gas line inspection. 

Inspector showed up, moved my manometer, then disconnected the rubber tubing to release the pressure. Then he shut off the valves and re-connected the rubber tubing. The manometer stayed at '0' inches. He said that shows that the shut off valve is holding and not letting any gas bleed by.


----------

