# Sewage pump discharge line



## rowanova (Aug 2, 2017)

So I am going to a job today to bid an installation of a sewage pump for a granny flat that is under construction. The homeowner hired a plumber who routed the new drain to the exterior but now he is wanting me to install a new pump. I honestly have never done a new install, I usually just get called out to replace burned out pumps. The part I am not quite sure about is how to run the discharge from the pump. I'm guessing it is 60-100' to the main, with less than 5' of rise. I know when I connect to the main that I should drop it into the top of the line with a wye, but thats about all I know. I'm going to run a 2" line to the main. Do I just dig a flat trench or give it consistent slope uphill to the main? Or does it not even matter since it is pumped? Also-would this line need cleanouts? I would imagine so, but since the line is pumped it seems the cleanest risers would just get filled with nasty ****. This is all going to be inspected and I don't want any issues when I'm done. I'm imaging the easiest would be to get a tank with a side outlet so that my outlet will be in my trench, and then I can get a valve box next to the tank for the check valve setup since it will be below grade. 

I've consulted the UPC but haven't really found my answers, I would greatly appreciate any advice, thanks!


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

Most municipalities are going to control sanitary sewers. It would not really be a plumbing code issue. Check with who controls the sanitary sewer.

Of course make sure you use pressure pipe & fittings, I would also if they did not require it, add a tracer wire for future.

I would keep at a constant depth usually at least 18" below any water service or main you may encounter within 10' horizontally.

Check with the pump supplier you use, get them the distance and total head the pump has to deal with. They will suggest a correctly sized pump. Make sure and bed the pipe correctly. Glued joints on a buried p[pressure line don't adjust well to any movement.


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## rowanova (Aug 2, 2017)

Thanks Gan, I did not think about it being rated for pressure you saved me big there. I also like the idea of the tracer wire, not required but I'm considering it. Then again you should be able to trace with a sewer camera. Any idea on the slope of the line or cleanouts?


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## Toli (Nov 7, 2015)

Around here, they make us size the gravity portion (if any) of the line same as a building sewer. So if you went 50' pumped then 50' gravity, the last 50 would be sized differently. Doesn't sound like you have much for gravity drainage, tho. 

I would suggest you get in touch with the sanitary district/public works, etc. Don't take my word for anything.


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

If I am not mistaken, you stated this is a small forced pressure building sewer. If this is the case you don't really want a clean out in a pressure line.

I do agree that if you can go to gravity, at that point do so (in my jurisdiction we require gasket joint pipe to allow for movement) and install a full sized CO on the gravity line.

Pressure line does not take into account slope generally, just the total head pressure whether it is straight up or gradual incline. Your not really going to be able to get a camera in a pressure line. Thus the tracer wire.


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

*A few questions*



rowanova said:


> So I am going to a job today to bid an installation of a sewage pump for a granny flat <SNIP>
> 
> Is this pump system to be used as a total house system?
> Or is this a pump sewerage system as in basement with no sewerage in the floor?
> ...


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## rowanova (Aug 2, 2017)

Thanks for the responses! Maybe I should have waited to ask my questions until I saw the job. Went out at the end of the day yesterday to check it out, it's different than I expected. The other plumber already ran a 4" ABS gravity line from the granny flat and tied into the main. At the beginning of the line he installed a 4" combi and reduced to 2" with a cap. The other plumber also ran the drains in the granny flat, brought it out in a 4" line that ends in the crawl space. I guess I'll have to core drill through the blocks to get the 4" outside the building, and the sewage pump will be installed right there on the side of the building. The 2" line is only gong to pump about 4-5' over and about 2' 'up'. The combi the other plumber left me with is actually above grade so I guess this 2" line is going to have to be above ground? Bill- this pump is taking the waste from 2 bathrooms- the master has 2 lavs + a tub + a shower. Also a laundry room, and this guy is hiding a kitchen from the inspector. This is not a grinder pump. As far as the vent, The home is still down to studs so I guess I can just pop it into a bay of the exterior wall and VTR


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

Any waste but grey water needs to go through a grinder/ sewage ejector. Not a heavy pump or head. A single home. Check these Zoellers out. >>>> https://www.sumppumpsdirect.com/pumps/zoeller-effluent-pumps.html 1/2 HP. automatic should be fine.

Throw out high water alarm suggestion. In my area the discharge would need to be at about 42" deep (18" below the water service). Ejector systems would be in the structure and require a vent for the pit. Beyond 5' outside the foundation you could get by with pit vent to the atmosphere in my area. Usually a concrete pit not an ejector basin. I don't care about the idea of possible odor, but it may be approved.

For sure touch bases with your plumbing inspector to see if he has concerns or if it even under his scope and the AHJ sewer department.


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