# Rheem Hybrid Heat pump WH



## M5Plumb

Hey all,

just a question to get a feel for those who have installed this Rheem WH. Like it, don't, problems etc??? Any and all feedback please. :thumbsup:

Thanks Pat


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## Nevada Plumber

GE paid me to replace one for them last week. The only thing I can really say about the water heater is that the relief valve is on the rear of the water heater. This was being installed in a small closet, and it was a real pain to hook it up. In this instance, if the relief valve ever has to be replaced, the entire water heater will have to be pulled to do it.

Probably not the exact kind of info you were looking for.


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## plumbpro

I put a GE in, it was pretty nice and the people like it. I had to run a condensate and rework the water lines so the filter could be pulled. There is a minimum room size, can't remember the exact size (maybe 8x10), but theirs was just big enough. They have had it about a year and all is well as far as I know.


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## M5Plumb

Sounds like from what I am hearing there are not many problems with the heater.


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## service guy

*Rheem EcoSense Heat Pump Water Heater*

Here is a review on the Rheem EcoSense Heat Pump Water Heater.
These things are great in warmer climates, since they heat water and cool air simultaneously. Keep in mind though, that the Rheem model is NOT the most efficient model of heat pump water heater. Actually it has one of the lowest efficiency ratings of heat pump water heaters on the market. There are other good choices for air-source heat pump water heaters, such as the Stiebel-Eltron Accelera 300, or The AO Smith Voltex, etc.


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## service guy

Also heat pump water heaters SHOULD NOT be transported horizontally. I have heard that transporting the heat pump sideways (the way 99% of plumbers transport water heaters lying on their side in the back of a van or pickup truck) can cause problems with the refrigerant coil.

This can cause malfunctions with the water heater once it is installed. They should be kept in the upright position, have your supplier truck it in for you vertically, if you can't transport it upright.


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## Protech

It's because the oil runs out of the compressor and can pool in the condenser coils. When you go to fire the thing up, the compressor burns out.



service guy said:


> Also heat pump water heaters SHOULD NOT be transported horizontally. I have heard that transporting the heat pump sideways (the way 99% of plumbers transport water heaters lying on their side in the back of a van or pickup truck) can cause problems with the refrigerant coil.
> 
> This can cause malfunctions with the water heater once it is installed. They should be kept in the upright position, have your supplier truck it in for you vertically, if you can't transport it upright.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

There is nothing different to installing this water heater than any other. Put one in about 4 weeks ago, customer was attentive to not laying it on its side.






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## M5Plumb

All great gouge. Thanks guys!


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## Master Mark

*8 years from now.......*



DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> There is nothing different to installing this water heater than any other. Put one in about 4 weeks ago, customer was attentive to not laying it on its side.
> 
> 
> View attachment 7399​


 

Thank you for the pic....here are a whole bunch of questions for you......


the T+p valve location sounds like a dumb ass thing to do to one of them


That in turn makes me wonder how hard it is to take out the mag rod from one of those if it starts to stink???

I wonder what the average life span of the tank will be
without elements and the extra weld joints???
 
That makes wonder what is gonna hapen when a tank finally leaks on one of these in warranty?? 

Dunbar...did you notice any easy way to disconnect the pump on the top from the tank on the bottom.... ???? I wonder if that is an easy change out or will the whole unit have to be 
/hitcanned if their is a leaker?????


I wonder if they will just send you out a complete replacement unit when one goes bad ?


SCALE ISSUES...without elements I would guess that it will not scale up at all.....just being
a standing tank, or will the heat exchangeer coil cause some residual flakeing off of it???

Dunbar...did you notice any easy way to clean out scale from one of them?? 
with the old style ones usually we flush it out through the element port.



also....was this only a 110 volt application, 
I have not looked at the specs on them yet ??
if so should it be plugged into a SURGE PROTECTOR to protect the 
on -board computor????






Please answer all these questions as soon as possible....










DUNBAR.....like your big bold sticker plastered right on top of that puppy......


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## Airgap

Dunbar, did you put any more support on that TXT? Or is it just out of the picture.....


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## Protech

I think you can just pull the cover off of the heat pump to access the anode on the better models.












As far as scale goes.....Because the heating is done more gradually and over a wider surface area, the buildup is less than the equivalent gas heater size.




Master Mark said:


> Thank you for the pic....here are a whole bunch of questions for you......
> 
> 
> the T+p valve location sounds like a dumb ass thing to do to one of them
> 
> 
> That in turn makes me wonder how hard it is to take out the mag rod from one of those if it starts to stink???
> 
> I wonder what the average life span of the tank will be
> without elements and the extra weld joints???
> 
> That makes wonder what is gonna hapen when a tank finally leaks on one of these in warranty??
> 
> Dunbar...did you notice any easy way to disconnect the pump on the top from the tank on the bottom.... ???? I wonder if that is an easy change out or will the whole unit have to be
> /hitcanned if their is a leaker?????
> 
> 
> I wonder if they will just send you out a complete replacement unit when one goes bad ?
> 
> 
> SCALE ISSUES...without elements I would guess that it will not scale up at all.....just being
> a standing tank, or will the heat exchangeer coil cause some residual flakeing off of it???
> 
> Dunbar...did you notice any easy way to clean out scale from one of them??
> with the old style ones usually we flush it out through the element port.
> 
> 
> 
> also....was this only a 110 volt application,
> I have not looked at the specs on them yet ??
> if so should it be plugged into a SURGE PROTECTOR to protect the
> on -board computor????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please answer all these questions as soon as possible....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DUNBAR.....like your big bold sticker plastered right on top of that puppy......


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## Master Mark

*Nice picture*



Protech said:


> I think you can just pull the cover off of the heat pump to access the anode on the better models.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as scale goes.....Because the heating is done more gradually and over a wider surface area, the buildup is less than the equivalent gas heater size.


 
thanks for the picture....had a customer asking about one this morning and she knew more about this than me... 

she even sent me 2 links http://blogs.consumerreports.org/ho...w-by-consumer-reports-best-water-heaters.html



http://blog.yagelski.com/2009/11/ge-hybrid-water-heater-does-heat-pump.html



http://blog.yagelski.com/2009/11/ge-hybrid-water-heater-does-heat-pump.html


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## stillaround

Did I read that correctly ..45 to 55 degree water to be effective.. Florida water is 70 degrees. I dont care for the 8 year pay back stuff..


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## Redwood

stillaround said:


> Did I read that correctly ..45 to 55 degree water to be effective.. Florida water is 70 degrees. I dont care for the 8 year pay back stuff..


No minimum ambient air temp 40-degrees


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## M5Plumb

Mark, yup me too on that one. I am putting a bid together for a young miss out in Carson.


Master Mark said:


> thanks for the picture....had a customer asking about one this morning and she knew more about this than me...
> 
> she even sent me 2 links http://blogs.consumerreports.org/ho...w-by-consumer-reports-best-water-heaters.html
> 
> 
> 
> http://blog.yagelski.com/2009/11/ge-hybrid-water-heater-does-heat-pump.html
> 
> 
> 
> http://blog.yagelski.com/2009/11/ge-hybrid-water-heater-does-heat-pump.html


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## Master Mark

*Talked her out of it*



M5Plumb said:


> Mark, yup me too on that one. I am putting a bid together for a young miss out in Carson.


This lady had been doing some digging for information that 
I found interesting too......
she also told me she found out that the *Rheem* unit had an anode rod that could not be replaced...... 

 so if it cant be replaced or removed....and you got smelley water ....then you are pretty screwed.....

I am going to see my Rheem rep today and ask him about this little snafoo on that unit and see if it is true...

-----------------------------------------------------------------------.

basically told her 1900 for the GE unit installed or we 
could do a Bradford White with SS elements and a blanket for 800.....

we are doing the Bradford at 2 today..


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## Protech

That's because it's a powered anode. That's a good thing. Powered anodes are not magnesium or aluminum and therefore cannot support sulfur reducing bacteria. They are also permanent(they never go bad). Most decent commercial water heaters have powered anodes these days as well.



Master Mark said:


> This lady had been doing some digging for information that
> I found interesting too......
> *she also told me she found out that the Rheem unit had an anode rod that could not be replaced......
> 
> * * so if it cant be replaced or removed....and you got smelley water ....then you are pretty screwed..*...
> 
> I am going to see my Rheem rep today and ask him about this little snafoo on that unit and see if it is true...
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------.
> 
> basically told her 1900 for the GE unit installed or we
> could do a Bradford White with SS elements and a blanket for 800.....
> 
> we are doing the Bradford at 2 today..


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## Master Mark

*Thank you*



Protech said:


> That's because it's a powered anode. That's a good thing. Powered anodes are not magnesium or aluminum and therefore cannot support sulfur reducing bacteria. They are also permanent(they never go bad). Most decent commercial water heaters have powered anodes these days as well.


 
Thats good to know, so the anode rod is nil...not an issue.


I just left a RHEEM cookout 
and there sat the Rheem 50 gallon heat pump heater.... 
that unit stands about 7..8 feet tall..... looks like a commercial
heater it is so damn large....

the RHEEM rep did not know about the anode rod either...
had him stumped.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

Airgap said:


> Dunbar, did you put any more support on that TXT? Or is it just out of the picture.....


 
Nope, and it needs it. 


I normally "don't" picture the water heater with the strapping because I can never get it to look good, so I take the pic first and then strap it.


This one however I know I'm coming back, and there's more work sitting at that house (2 tub/shower faucet replacements) when the guy gets off the pisser about spending the money.


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## stillaround

How noisy are they...I read that as one of the complaints. I remember those plastic ball checks in some electrics that would snap every time the water went on and resonate in the laundry room..how are these?


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

58 decibels. If it is next to a high efficiency furnace, the noise is drowned out completely.


It's just people complaining about a electric water heater making noise for the first time.


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## PlungerJockey

I don't know anything about the new Rheems. I am very interested. I was in my local Winnelson the other day and I noticed the display model they had near the counter was gone. I asked about it and they told me they had been pulled by Rheem. Anyone know why?


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## Shuanvon

Dont think it will be a good option for us down south...alot of our heaters are in attics and(if what i heard from rep is true) if ambient temp around heater is over 110 deg then the heater shuts down. That would be a problem for us since attic temp gets to around 130 in the summer


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