# Handyhack Water Heater Replacement San Antonio Texas



## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Gotta love this one... :laughing:
I thought you had to be a plumber to do plumbing work in Texas....


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## TallCoolOne (Dec 19, 2010)

Why hasn't the Plumbing Board issued this nitwit a fine for doing this and posting the evidence?


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## robwilliams (May 6, 2011)

He didn't even replace the flue pipe. That must have saved him at least a whole $15.00 in materials. I hate it when contractors cheap out on a job. It doesn't even look like 4 inch flue either, I could be wrong, but it looks like 3 inch.


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

3" is standard for 40's and 50's, but yeah...pretty ugly. 

He left the galvanized 90 :thumbdown:


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## TallCoolOne (Dec 19, 2010)

Craigslist Hero:

Here is his link:

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/hss/3152734846.html


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

Does he do babsitting as well :laughing: he does everything else.

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

Redwood said:


> Gotta love this one... :laughing:
> I thought you had to be a plumber to do plumbing work in Texas....
> 
> Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyswb1AdaNo


He bought that heater at HD, and those galvanized fittings used on the cold water line will corode like hell.

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

The CPVC on the T&P relief line is a code violation.


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## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

TallCoolOne said:


> Craigslist Hero:
> 
> Here is his link:
> 
> http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/hss/3152734846.html


He says he can even teach you to fish. I wonder if he has a fishing license.:laughing: Another funny one is that he says he installs bath vent fans, but they have to be prewired.

Then he says, does not include any of the licensed trade work. Unbelievable that not 1 authority sees this guy working somewhere in the last 30yrs (says he's been in bus since 1980), & does anything about it.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

TallCoolOne said:


> Craigslist Hero:
> 
> Here is his link:
> 
> http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/hss/3152734846.html


Click the 'Prohibited' link in the upper right hand corner of the page

Doubtful, but mebbe Craigslist will do something about him if the complaints start piling up.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

easttexasplumb said:


> The CPVC on the T&P relief line is a code violation.


How is it a violation?


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## TallCoolOne (Dec 19, 2010)

easttexasplumb said:


> The CPVC on the T&P relief line is a code violation.


As long as it is 3/4" and has fall it is fine her in Texas


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

Also CPVC is required to have no less than 6" metal nipple between it and the T&P.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

TallCoolOne said:


> As long as it is 3/4" and has fall it is fine her in Texas


 
Is that under the uniform or international pluming code


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## TallCoolOne (Dec 19, 2010)

easttexasplumb said:


> Is that under the uniform or international pluming code


To be truthful I have no clue, I guess which ever one they have you study when u take the plumbing test in Texas.

I have seen many home that are plumbed with PCVC on the T&P.

And if i replace one with a CPVC T&P I will use cooper on top and transition to CPVC. Most cites around here require a union on the T&P, so I use a compression fitting on the T&P (top mounted) and come out with cooper and after I make my cooper 90 turn I then go back to CPVC.

Always passed inspection in D/FW area.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Yeah, here we can use CPVC on T&P lines, I don't and always change them when I run across them.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

Pretty sure cpvc is not allowed here but, pex is. I always use M copper for relief lines.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

easttexasplumb said:


> Pretty sure cpvc is not allowed here but, pex is. I always use M copper for relief lines.


Prolly a local yocal thingy...

M????? I always use K, nothing but the best for me and my customers...


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

easttexasplumb said:


> Pretty sure cpvc is not allowed here but, pex is. I always use M copper for relief lines.


We're allowed to use CPVC for relief lines here, so long as the CPVC male adapter has a brass or copper insert.

Excepting case drains, trap primers and condensate lines, relief lines are about all I use CPVC for.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Prolly a local yocal thingy...
> 
> M????? I always use K, nothing but the best for me and my customers...


I use M so the democrates that take their share of my customers copper dont get so much.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Prolly a local yocal thingy...
> 
> M????? I always use K, nothing but the best for me and my customers...


I used PEX for a relief line just one time and the Inspector made me tear it out. -- He was concerned about restricted flow due to the smaller ID of PEX.


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## TallCoolOne (Dec 19, 2010)

easttexasplumb said:


> Pretty sure cpvc is not allowed here but, pex is. I always use M copper for relief lines.


Yea must be local, Pex not allowed it will melt I think


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Widdershins said:


> I used PEX for a relief line just one time and the Inspector made me tear it out. -- He was concerned about restricted flow due to the smaller ID of PEX.


It is allowed here, though.


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## TallCoolOne (Dec 19, 2010)

easttexasplumb said:


> Pretty sure cpvc is not allowed here but, pex is. I always use M copper for relief lines.


What hillbilly city out in East Texas lets you use PEX for a T&P?


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## TallCoolOne (Dec 19, 2010)

Titan Plumbing said:


> It is allowed here, though.


What city?

I am gonna ask Plano and Frisco if I can use PEX? It would be much cheaper and then I could be a PEX user like the rest of the plumbers out there.......


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Fort Worth

Good luck with those 2 holier than thou Cities...


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

On T&P's Inspector here won't allow us to use anything with "ENERT" fittings ie Pex, Uponor etc. Nor can we use flex connectors. They consider the fittings inside the pipe to be obstructive, same with the ribbing on flex connectors. UPC here btw.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Epox said:


> On T&P's Inspector here won't allow us to use anything with "ENERT" fittings ie Pex, Uponor etc. Nor can we use flex connectors. They consider the fittings inside the pipe to be obstructive, same with the ribbing on flex connectors. UPC here btw.


We use copper flex connectors here.


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

TallCoolOne said:


> What city?
> 
> I am gonna ask Plano and Frisco if I can use PEX? It would be much cheaper and then I could be a PEX user like the rest of the plumbers out there.......


Pex is fine for relief lines throughout DFW. Where you run inot problems is with the reduced port crimp fittings. If you use Wirsbo fittings to maintain full port throughout it's no problem.

That's not to say there isn't the occasional inspector out there who is unfamiliar with expansion pex fittings, but explaining that with Wirsbo there is no reduction usually clears it up fast.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

Titan Plumbing said:


> We use copper flex connectors here.


Wish we could, I'm usually trying to just get it done and get out of there as I have a hard enough time getting my average $675 on a 40 gal WH change out.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

johnlewismcleod said:


> Pex is fine for relief lines throughout DFW. Where you run inot problems is with the reduced port crimp fittings. If you use Wirsbo fittings to maintain full port throughout it's no problem.
> 
> That's not to say there isn't the occasional inspector out there who is unfamiliar with expansion pex fittings, but explaining that with Wirsbo there is no reduction usually clears it up fast.


 
Use a Sharkbite male adaptor.


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

easttexasplumb said:


> Use a Sharkbite male adaptor.


If you leave the sleeve in like you're supposed to on pex it's a reduced port.

I _don't use_ sharkbite on anything except an emergency situation (or if the boss insists).


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

johnlewismcleod said:


> Pex is fine for relief lines throughout DFW. Where you run inot problems is with the reduced port crimp fittings. If you use Wirsbo fittings to maintain full port throughout it's no problem.
> 
> That's not to say there isn't the occasional inspector out there who is unfamiliar with expansion pex fittings, but explaining that with Wirsbo there is no reduction usually clears it up fast.


You and I know that. It is still a "enert" fitting though and as such our inspector would still say no.
If I had a specific reason for using it he might allow in certain cases. He's a tough one though.


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## PunkRockPlumber (Mar 26, 2012)

Wow. Couldn't change the flue? We have to convert any old 3" flues to 4" here with any water heater replacement as per new code update.


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

MikeBKNY78 said:


> Wow. Couldn't change the flue? We have to convert any old 3" flues to 4" here with any water heater replacement as per new code update.


Haven't run into that down here yet...is it because of the higher efficiency of the newer units?


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## Gettinit (May 9, 2012)

johnlewismcleod said:


> Haven't run into that down here yet...is it because of the higher efficiency of the newer units?


Higher efficiency means lower temps in the flues....I doubt that is the reason. I am interested in knowing why. Anybody up that way have a commentary book with the states explanation?


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

Gettinit said:


> Higher efficiency means lower temps in the flues....I doubt that is the reason. I am interested in knowing why. Anybody up that way have a commentary book with the states explanation?


I was thinking possibly greater surface area in flue for less condensation, but it's just a haphazard guess.


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## deerslayer (Mar 29, 2012)

johnlewismcleod said:


> I was thinking possibly greater surface area in flue for less condensation, but it's just a haphazard guess.


Greater surface area will lead to cooler temps and more condensation.


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

deerslayer said:


> Greater surface area will lead to cooler temps and more condensation.


Probably right...I'm stumped.


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## TallCoolOne (Dec 19, 2010)

Gettinit said:


> I am interested in knowing why. Anybody up that way have a commentary book with the states explanation?


+1........


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## bizzybeeplumbin (Jul 19, 2011)

according to his web site he can help me build a web site and safely search the net!

I was told I couldn't use pex for a relief line because the relief line needs to be graded like a drain and with pex there is to much of a chance it will belly or negative slope. cpvc and copper only. no flex lines allowed and pvc isn't rated for hot water. 

you guys don;t require expansion Tanks there in Texas? Is the t/p line pulled away from the heater? Looks horrible. Must be a short little guy if he needs to build a pully system to remove a heater from a closet. :laughing:

The trade I love and value so much is going to the dogs daily and the govt just watches it happen.


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## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

Gettinit said:


> Higher efficiency means lower temps in the flues....I doubt that is the reason. I am interested in knowing why. Anybody up that way have a commentary book with the states explanation?


Some beaurocrat code writer, trying to justify his job, calculated that after a hundred yrs, 40,000 BTU's was too much for a 3" fume pipe. Even though the manufact, had a 3" draft diverter. In fact its still like that but now they have a draft diverter that will accept 4" too, still only 3" opening though. I think the cutoff for 3" fume pipe here is 37, 500, & all the standard 40 gal tanks are 40,000. So yea, we have to increase the vent to 4". If it is not feasible to increase chimney, they have a 34,000 heater avail, but it costs alot more.


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

bizzybeeplumbin said:


> I was told I couldn't use pex for a relief line because the relief line needs to be graded like a drain and with pex there is to much of a chance it will belly or negative slope...cpvc and copper only.


I suppose that makes sense in theory, but pop-off lines are usually run in such a way that bellies aren't possible. But we all give our inspectors what they ask for...that's the rules :yes:



bizzybeeplumbin said:


> you guys don;t require expansion Tanks there in Texas? Is the t/p line pulled away from the heater?


We use expansion tanks whenever there is back-flow prevention or in municipalities that require them...which is most atm :yes:


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## bizzybeeplumbin (Jul 19, 2011)

So about the vent sizes. When I was in California 50 gallon and below were 3" vent flue with 3" connector pipe, so single wall going to a 4" dual wall vent pipe with a minimum of 5' of total vent length, the restriction in length is so the vent pipe heats up so it will flue properly. 75 gallon and up were 4" flue to 4" dual wall. If there were multiple obviously the draft hoods were size like largest one would be 100% and then the rest would count as 50% of the draft hood when figuring the square area for the size when you were tieing them all in.

I come here to the east side and there is 4" dual wall right off the flue and all the way through to the vent cap. no matter the size. I do sometimes see 3" on some homes, mostly 4" dual wall.

I hate it that way because there is usually a 2" or so difference in the new heaters and the old heaters. Some have the dual wall sections that are adjustable but it is obnoxious. 

Why not just have the dual wall start at the fire stop and use single wall from the heater to the fire stop as long as clearance to combustibles permits? Makes it much easier. The only reason I have heard is upon new construction the guys just vented from the flue of the heater up, all single wall. easier that way. But dual wall pipe is more expensive, so I guess its a minimal labor savings. In my opinion that section will not heat up as well and not flue as great as the first couple or so feet with it being single wall vent connector pipe. First 5 feet is very important. Over sizing is not always the best. especially slamming a 4" dual wall pipe on a 3" draft hood.


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## AndersenPlumbing (Jan 23, 2010)

> $20.00 PER HOUR FOR WORK ABOVE DETERMINED RESONABLE REPAIR TIME.
> $60 MINIMUM ON HANDYMAN REPAIRS/SERVICE CALLS.
> $25 DAILY TRAVEL FEE ON or OUTSIDE 1604 FROM INTERSECTION
> NEAREST TO ME (UP TO 5 MILES) $1 Per Mile after 5 Miles
> ...


 :confused1: :wacko: :blink:

WTF? You gotta teach your customer how to decode your bill too??


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## TallCoolOne (Dec 19, 2010)

bizzybeeplumbin said:


> you guys don;t require expansion Tanks there in Texas?


I only have to use an expansion tank if it is a closed system, and for me that is when there is PRV in the ground

And this is only recent addition to the city code where I do most of my water heaters......


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