# Customer sent pictures



## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

He’s asking for a price just to change the hose bib. I texted him back for a wider angle picture telling him all that piping needs to be replaced.


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## dhal22 (Jul 30, 2010)

Don't even touch it.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Debo22 said:


> He’s asking for a price just to change the hose bib. I texted him back for a wider angle picture telling him all that piping needs to be replaced.


I take it that's the leg of a utility sink next to it? Sad part is that some plumbers think all that mess is okay. Around here we'd call that diy/hack schit. 

Around here pvc for waterlines comes with the dislaimer of; if you make me touch it, don't be surprised when it keeps cracking further down and I have to keep repiping. Doesn't matter whether they have well or city water, the pvc waterlines get very brittle.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

dhal22 said:


> Don't even touch it.


I'd touch it on the condition I could replace all that pvc, however far it goes.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Haha! I don’t miss SoCal outdoor plumbing one bit!


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

Here’s the wide shot


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Debo22 said:


> Here’s the wide shot
> View attachment 129622


2- 1/2" sweat x 1/2" fip end tee
2- 1/2" ball valve boiler drain
2- 1/2" sweat x 3/8" comp rough angle stop
2- 16" flex s.s. 1/2" ip supply line

If that's 3/4" out the wall
2- 3/4" x 1/2" sweat coupling.

If you're one of those wham-bam-thank you mam, never learned how to solder, marks up material 50%, and spends more on vinyl wraps than tools guys then just do it in propress.


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

skoronesa said:


> 2- 1/2" sweat x 1/2" fip end tee
> 2- 1/2" ball valve boiler drain
> 2- 1/2" sweat x 3/8" comp rough angle stop
> 2- 16" flex s.s. 1/2" ip supply line
> ...


I was thinking if it’s 1/2” copper coming out of the wall. Ace the shark bite and sweat on a coupling, then a tee with a male adapter for the hose bib, off the top of the tee solder a piece of straight copper, install a compression 1/2x3/8 angle stop and new supply. Done


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Debo22 said:


> I was thinking if it’s 1/2” copper coming out of the wall. Ace the shark bite and sweat on a coupling, then a tee with a male adapter for the hose bib, off the top of the tee solder a piece of straight copper, install a compression 1/2x3/8 angle stop and new supply. Done


Yeah but he said just the hose bib! 😁 🤣


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Debo22 said:


> I was thinking if it’s 1/2” copper coming out of the wall. Ace the shark bite and sweat on a coupling, then a tee with a male adapter for the hose bib, off the top of the tee solder a piece of straight copper, install a compression 1/2x3/8 angle stop and new supply. Done


If you're going to sweat on a coupling why bother with a compression stop? If I'm breaking out the torch I just do everything in sweat. None of this sweat and pex and thread and compression bs. I have gotten parts for a job that someone else ordered where I need the torch, the propress, and the pex crimper. WTF?


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

Tango said:


> Yeah but he said just the hose bib! 😁 🤣


I won’t touch it if I don’t replace all of the cold side


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

skoronesa said:


> If you're going to sweat on a coupling why bother with a compression stop? If I'm breaking out the torch I just do everything in sweat. None of this sweat and pex and thread and compression bs. I have gotten parts for a job that someone else ordered where I need the torch, the propress, and the pex crimper. WTF?


Never seen a sweat stop here, it’s all compression. Supply houses don’t carry them


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Debo22 said:


> Never seen a sweat stop here, it’s all compression. Supply houses don’t carry them


Can you at least still solder them like the elbows that come with watts washer valves? They have compression threads but the fit is such that they can be soldered, which we always do of course.


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

skoronesa said:


> Can you at least still solder them like the elbows that come with watts washer valves? They have compression threads but the fit is such that they can be soldered, which we always do of course.


No reason to reinvent the wheel, I’ll stick with compression angle stops like normal for my area


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## The cable guy (Oct 31, 2020)

I don't really understand the point of sweat stops. Never seen em till I moved down here. I just don't understand why someone would feel the need. Especially on the lowest point in the line.


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

That will come apart easy... Just a couple of rigid wrenches ...one on that old Tee and the other on 
that rusty nipple and you are good to go... 
Just throw him on a new boiler drain and a brass nipple then charge him $300
and he will be happy.....


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

Master Mark said:


> That will come apart easy... Just a couple of rigid wrenches ...one on that old Tee and the other on
> that rusty nipple and you are good to go...
> Just throw him on a new boiler drain and a brass nipple then charge him $300
> and he will be happy.....


I like how you guys keep calling it a boiler drain. We don’t have boilers here so our term is hose bib. It’s cool to hear the regional sayings.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Debo22 said:


> I like how you guys keep calling it a boiler drain. We don’t have boilers here so our term is hose bib. It’s cool to hear the regional sayings.


We use the term hosebibb for frost-free hosebibbs. Then you have hose spigots/sillcocks which are like boiler drains but have a flange for going against a wall.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

And then you have WB who calls a sillcock a "Lawn Faucet". I like those chrome sillcocks as much as anyone but "Lawn Faucet" is just a weird term.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

The cable guy said:


> I don't really understand the point of sweat stops. Never seen em till I moved down here. I just don't understand why someone would feel the need. Especially on the lowest point in the line.


Have you ever heard of the diminishing pipe theory? Also, it's not the lowest point when the pipes come up from the basement


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

The cable guy said:


> I don't really understand the point of sweat stops. Never seen em till I moved down here. I just don't understand why someone would feel the need. Especially on the lowest point in the line.



It's only an issue if the main valve isn't holding (Basements here). All the valves are soldered here, when I see a compression one it's a sign a diy did it and I usually see teflon sticking out too! I think I kept one or two when they were mixed in the soldered batch.

Plus what scares me is 40 year old plus houses the solder becomes brittle if you pull on the pipe just a little. I know my own house I undid most of the joints by hand and these came out of the fittings. I've seen that in a few other houses too.


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## The cable guy (Oct 31, 2020)

No basements down here everything is on a slab. Dig down 8' and you hit ground water. Most hose bibs are above the toilet stops


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

Around here a sillcock is the old term and therefore basically the one that was not frost free and had a flange because it was meant to go on the outside of a building and to my knowledge always has female threads (first pic) a hosebib is the newer term and mostly means the frostproof version for an outside faucet (second pic) a boilerdrain has no flange (third pic)























Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

The Dane said:


> Around here a sillcock is the old term and therefore basically the one that was not frost free and had a flange because it was meant to go on the outside of a building and to my knowledge always has female threads (first pic) a hosebib is the newer term and mostly means the frostproof version for an outside faucet (second pic) a boilerdrain has no flange (third pic)


Exactly!


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

The Dane said:


> Around here a sillcock is the old term and therefore basically the one that was not frost free and had a flange because it was meant to go on the outside of a building and to my knowledge always has female threads (first pic) a hosebib is the newer term and mostly means the frostproof version for an outside faucet (second pic) a boilerdrain has no flange (third pic)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Agree


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

Finally got around to doing the repair


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