# Nipple Extractors



## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

Anyone else use something different?


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

I have a set made by Proto tools for 1/2 thru 1" nipples that I like a lot. I'll try to find and image of it. Anything over 1" I cape out.


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## GrumpyPlumber (Jun 12, 2008)

*I have a set thats small enough to extract the allen set screw on a faucet.*


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## 22rifle (Jun 14, 2008)

Cringe.

Hanging head.

Mine are from Harbor Freight.

Disgusting I know. Just never had that much use for them.

Well, I do have a good one in 1/2" & 3/4".


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## threaderman (Jun 17, 2008)

My best set is made by Rector-Seal and is called Golden Grip and ranges from 1/2" to 2"and accepts a 1/2" ratchet drive.The thing is definitely a specialty tool set [at 200.00],and doesn't get a lot use .I have many other extractors of the spiral variety as well.


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## Herk (Jun 12, 2008)

I seldom use extractors for nipples. If I can't get the thing out with a wrench, I'll use a small saw blade and cut the thing through or nearly through, being very careful to not damage threads, then it will twist out.


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

Herk said:


> I seldom use extractors for nipples. If I can't get the thing out with a wrench, I'll use a small saw blade and cut the thing through or nearly through, being very careful to not damage threads, then it will twist out.


That is also known a caping, they make a special chisel for it that makes it even easier to remove, I do it often.


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## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

you know,t he only time I try to extract anything is on a shower riser, when the shower arm breaks off inside.

usually does not work and I have to break either tile or drywall to get the new drop ear in. 

I explain to the customer, that they should have had their shower arm changed 5 years ago:yes:


I own the same extractor, 1/2" and 3/4", and inside extractor, but I broke the 1/2" and don't use the others.


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

Killertoiletspider said:


> That is also known a caping, they make a special chisel for it that makes it even easier to remove, I do it often.


The only place I have ever had to do this is with respect to the brass sweat adapter (not sure what this is really called) found on some old sweated brass traps. I know plenty of you have seen these but I rarely come across them. It is a brass ring, 1/4" i.d., threaded on the outside and sweat on the inside usually screwed into a c.i. tapped san tee. Killer you may still be installing these on a daily basis for all I know but it's not very often that I come across one. Every time I do I always hold out hope that I can simply screw it out which of course I never can. I always have to cut the brass which is easy enough and then pry it out with a screwdriver. It always takes longer than I think it should.


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

smellslike$tome said:


> The only place I have ever had to do this is with respect to the brass sweat adapter (not sure what this is really called) found on some old sweated brass traps. I know plenty of you have seen these but I rarely come across them. It is a brass ring, 1/4" i.d., threaded on the outside and sweat on the inside usually screwed into a c.i. tapped san tee. Killer you may still be installing these on a daily basis for all I know but it's not very often that I come across one. Every time I do I always hold out hope that I can simply screw it out which of course I never can. I always have to cut the brass which is easy enough and then pry it out with a screwdriver. It always takes longer than I think it should.


Those are called solder bushings, they aren't used anymore. You don't need to cut them to get them out, a cape chisel will do it no problem, without risking the threads on the fitting.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

We use them when replacing the galvinized nipple that the old time plumbers put in back then, the ones that stub out the wall and there is no room to lock the channels locks onto the end and you only see the threads. 

It's all brass nipples that I use on the stubs.


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## threaderman (Jun 17, 2008)

WestCoastPlumber said:


> you know,t he only time I try to extract anything is on a shower riser, when the shower arm breaks off inside.
> 
> usually does not work and I have to break either tile or drywall to get the new drop ear in.
> 
> ...


 Next time try a hack-saw blade and score in a few places and get close to the threads,it'll bend out.I've done hundreds.Especially useful technique when the 90 is not secured to the structure,and an extractor will tweak the riser.Or just remove some wallboard and or tile.:laughing:


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

Killertoiletspider said:


> Those are called solder bushings, they aren't used anymore. You don't need to cut them to get them out, a cape chisel will do it no problem, without risking the threads on the fitting.


Got a photo and where do I get one?


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## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

threaderman said:


> Next time try a hack-saw blade and score in a few places and get close to the threads,it'll bend out.I've done hundreds.Especially useful technique when the 90 is not secured to the structure,and an extractor will tweak the riser.Or just remove some wallboard and or tile.:laughing:


 
Yeah, I have been lucky on a few, scoring is time consuming, but I always give it a chance. the metal is real thin and sometimes I cut into the threads, if that happens, it's gotta come out, 

my insurance company appreciates the fact that I get a paronoid over the chance of having a small leak in the wall for years....


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## threaderman (Jun 17, 2008)

I was plumbing when you were 4 years old,so my technique may be a little more fine-tuned as far as extractions go.There was no such thing as sawzalls or dremel tools then.[well ,maybe corded sawzalls].
As far as length of time to do the procedure or any tedious procedure ,I always say to myself,"cinch by the inch,hard by the yard" and it helps keep things in perspective.


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

smellslike$tome said:


> Got a photo and where do I get one?













The one in front is a half round cape chisel, you can order one directly from SK Tools, www.sktools.com .


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## Herk (Jun 12, 2008)

I do have cape chisels and other strange ones that I use for similar tasks. Sometimes those shower arms have threads that are almost transparent they're so thin. 

Yesterday, I had to remove an electric water heater element that wouldn't come loose. I use a big socket and breaker bar and it just slipped off. I've had to cut them out many times before and thought I had a pretty good system, but this one was tough. I had three holes drilled in it and was finally able to get a sawzall blade through the holes to cut several slashes near the threads. Eventually, I was able to knock off a piece and it came out. Not a scratch on the WH threads, which amazed even me. It was in tight quarters in a very small closet, too.


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

Herk said:


> I do have cape chisels and other strange ones that I use for similar tasks. Sometimes those shower arms have threads that are almost transparent they're so thin.
> 
> Yesterday, I had to remove an electric water heater element that wouldn't come loose. I use a big socket and breaker bar and it just slipped off. I've had to cut them out many times before and thought I had a pretty good system, but this one was tough. I had three holes drilled in it and was finally able to get a sawzall blade through the holes to cut several slashes near the threads. Eventually, I was able to knock off a piece and it came out. Not a scratch on the WH threads, which amazed even me. It was in tight quarters in a very small closet, too.


Yikes! Never had to do that. I would probably sell them a new water heater (or at least try) before I went to all that trouble. Problem is that how would you know it was in that condition before trying to remove it? Are you saying that the nut just rounded off? And why in the world do they make those so thin? This makes no sense at all to me.


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## turd hurder (Jun 22, 2008)

The ones I've seen look like this.








The one you posted reminds me of a "easy out" screw extractor, though I did come across it as a nipple extractor when I searched for this image.


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## unionpipeguy (Nov 3, 2008)

*sawing and caping*

score the busted nipple with a bare hacksaw blade and strike it with a hammer and a cape or diamond point chisel, the nipple will collapse and then become removable with a needle nose plier or similar tool. For sizes 1/2" and smaller, take the hacksaw blade to the bench grinder and lower its height profile by grinding off some of the blade to make it samll enough to enter the nipple; most capes are too large for small nipples, so a control screwdriver(flat type) or even an awl works best for second part of the task.

I should have been a baker or a teacher!


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## Proud Plumber (Sep 15, 2008)

turd hurder said:


> The ones I've seen look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Junk, I have never been able to make this type work.


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## Double-A (Aug 17, 2008)

These are the best extractors I've used. They haven't failed me yet.

http://www.pmmag.com/Articles/Products/29759412e70d7010VgnVCM100000f932a8c0____


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## service guy (Jun 26, 2008)

Double-A said:


> These are the best extractors I've used. They haven't failed me yet.
> 
> http://www.pmmag.com/Articles/Products/29759412e70d7010VgnVCM100000f932a8c0____


Thanks, those look awesome. I am going to get some.


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## Proud Plumber (Sep 15, 2008)

service guy said:


> Thanks, those look awesome. I am going to get some.


Ditto


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

i use a set made by proto. from what i can tell stanley/proto doesn't make them anymore. now they only sell the crappy cam style ones. these have 3 teeth that dig into the nipple when you tighten a bolt on top. pull the nipple out and loosen it's grip. there hasn't been a broken shower arm i couldn't get out since i got the set 10 years ago, not one. i actually broke the 3/4" on a 50 year old galv. nipple and have been looking for a replacement for months. i can't even find a pic of them.











paul


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

The best nipple extractor IMHO is the 3-pronged expansion type. It's black. It has a hex head screw that is tapered in the end. When you tighten the screw, the tapered end of the screw forces 3 carbon steel "claws" to expand into the ID of the offending nipple/shower arm. It has never failed me. It's distributed by Ferguson’s. By far the highest torque of any extractor. I'll see if I can get a pic of one.


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

those are the ones i have but they're made by (stamped?) proto. i've been looking for a replacement for my broken 3/4 and my ferguson rep says they can only get the crappy cam style ones. 

i used the 1/2" one just today to pull a broken shower arm out. easy peasy.




paul


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## A Good Plumber (Jun 18, 2008)

Here it is!



http://www.stanleyproto.com/default...140&strSiteName=PROTO&strDefaultCatalog=PROTO


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

turd hurder said:


> The ones I've seen look like this.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Have a full set of them on the truck.... Work good for me


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

Yep, that's it. I too dislike the cams.


A Good Plumber said:


> Here it is!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.stanleyproto.com/default...140&strSiteName=PROTO&strDefaultCatalog=PROTO


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## bob (Aug 21, 2008)

Get a woman and you won't need a nipple extractor


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

I knew someone would chime in eventually. 

Next thread: Who's got the biggest rodder?


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## bob (Aug 21, 2008)

not me


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