# Closet Flanges



## Bollinger plumber (Apr 3, 2009)

I have to use them here because alot of the older homes don't even have closet flanges on them. Just a 4 inch pipe coming out of the floor and the bolts are anchored right into the concrete floor or wood floor.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

Bollinger plumber said:


> I have to use them here because alot of the older homes don't even have closet flanges on them. Just a 4 inch pipe coming out of the floor and the bolts are anchored right into the concrete floor or wood floor.



I use these Al, when there is just a 4'' pipe coming up through the floor. Haven't had any issues with them. Easy to install as well.


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## Bollinger plumber (Apr 3, 2009)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> I use these Al, when there is just a 4'' pipe coming up through the floor. Haven't had any issues with them. Easy to install as well.


Yes I have used them a few times. I will install a flange if the ho is willing to pay for it. Most of the time they just say "well it has worked this long might as well just leave it like it is" I don't argue with them I just tell them see you soon and reset the toilet.


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## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> I use these Al, when there is just a 4'' pipe coming up through the floor. Haven't had any issues with them. Easy to install as well.


 I've used several of these with no problems, just wish the ring was stainless steel.


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## Herk (Jun 12, 2008)

I've been using the ones from Sioux Chief - you know, the ones with stainless steel? 










They make a real nice one in 3" that has a longer spigot.


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## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

Herk said:


> I've been using the ones from Sioux Chief - you know, the ones with stainless steel?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have those too. These are my first choice, but sometimes no matter how much I clean the inside of the iron, I can't get this type to fit. That's when I'll use the white compression type in previous pic. Options are key in service plumbing!


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## user2091 (Sep 27, 2009)

if it 's for 3" it would be against code. has to be on the outside of pipe!


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## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

I don't know if I've ever seen a 3" CI closet riser. All 4" in my area.


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> I use these Al, when there is just a 4'' pipe coming up through the floor. Haven't had any issues with them. Easy to install as well.


That would be illegal to install here.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

Yes they are against code here


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

I thought you just drove lag screws into the holes of the toilet, hit em with a hammer and wrench em tight? No?


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## stillaround (Mar 11, 2009)

In Chicago busting out a flange and replacing was not a big deal. If you kept a ladle and torch, a 5lb ingot a little oakum and 2" flange you were good to go


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## Plasticman (Oct 14, 2008)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> I use these Al, when there is just a 4'' pipe coming up through the floor. Haven't had any issues with them. Easy to install as well.


 Those to me would be considered an obstruction with the allen screw thingies with the raised shoulders all around. I bought one years ago and it has cob webs on it in my shop. I refuse to use it. Just my opinion


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## 22rifle (Jun 14, 2008)

Plasticman said:


> Those to me would be considered an obstruction with the allen screw thingies with the raised shoulders all around. I bought one years ago and it has cob webs on it in my shop. I refuse to use it. Just my opinion


Are the allen screws sticking out?


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## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

The allen screws do stick out, which I'm not crazy about. The are stainless steel however, and on a 4" properly supported flange I don't see it being a problem.


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## Herk (Jun 12, 2008)

I have one or two of the flanges that have a large rubber seal that tightens when you twist the flange. I've never actually had trouble with the ones that have the SS screws, though I haven't used one in a long time.


No problems with the screws in these.


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

I've had problem with solids catching on the bolts.



Killertoiletspider said:


> That would be illegal to install here.


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

I personally like the "twist n' set" type.

I also use the "push n' shove" type. They are cheaper but they are much harder to install in old scaled up iron.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

Ive used a few of them, alls im sayin. Havent had a call back on them. Sure, the screws could be an obstruction, but, when your supply house only carries one of the above, what can ya do?


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

Protech said:


> I personally like the "twist n' set" type.
> 
> I also use the "push n' shove" type. They are cheaper but they are much harder to install in old scaled up iron.


Why wouldn't you just break out the old CI flange and install a new CI flange? It takes an hour tops and is a better job all the way around.


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

Here ya go. Stock # and all.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

Protech said:


> I personally like the "twist n' set" type.
> 
> I also use the "push n' shove" type. They are cheaper but they are much harder to install in old scaled up iron.



you have to Bevel the inside of the cast Iron.:laughing:


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

I actually do that with a grinder. I also knock the scale off the pipe with a chisel. I then lube the pipe and the gasket (I’m getting aroused) and even then it's a bear to get that thing set.



ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> you have to Bevel the inside of the cast Iron.:laughing:


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

Killertoiletspider said:


> Why wouldn't you just break out the old CI flange and install a new CI flange? It takes an hour tops and is a better job all the way around.


I did just that last week. Had the lead pot going anyway for a floor outlet urinal. 2 whacks with the chisel and the flange was removed. The plumber before me used a sleeve in the slab. It made life very easy. It took me about 25 minutes by the time I caulked it.


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## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

Killertoiletspider said:


> Why wouldn't you just break out the old CI flange and install a new CI flange? It takes an hour tops and is a better job all the way around.


 Honestly, I don't have enough experience with pouring lead & oakum joints. It's been about 12-15 years since I've had to do one, that was when I worked for a plumbing co. that did some commercial. Even then it was mostly no-hub, and for undergrounds we used the rubber doughnuts with lube and pushed the CI together.
I've used every repair flange shown in this thread. I have not had one problem with any of them. You MUST have some good wood to secure them to, then use thick decking screws. My favorite and mostly used is the one Herk showed a picture of with the SS ring. They fit sooo snug you need lube to get them in, and even then sometimes they won't go (calm down protech) Then I have to use one of the other two. I would only use one on 4" CI, and fortunately for toilets that's all there is here.
If I was one of those guys that's poured thousands of CI joints, (much respect), and was proficent in residential service(not many of these guys exist that's an EXPERT in both IMO), then I would consider stocking lead, oakum, ladel, caulking tools, CI flanges. Space is at a premium in my truck.
There's a fine balance between doing the best possible job, or doing a very good job, and remaing financially competitive in your chosen area of expertise.


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