# Repairing leak in pvc



## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

When you run DWV you once in a while run into a joint that leaks under testing. I usually try the "Wipe primer around and wipe glue around" routine. Sometimes it works, sometimes it dont. I have seen people use a heated coat hanger to try to stop the leak. How do you solve this problem?


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## ToUtahNow (Jul 19, 2008)

USP45 said:


> When you run DWV you once in a while run into a joint that leaks under testing. I usually try the "Wipe primer around and wipe glue around" routine. Sometimes it works, sometimes it dont. I have seen people use a heated coat hanger to try to stop the leak. How do you solve this problem?


Cut out the bad joint and replace it as that is the only code compliant repair.

Mark


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## 3KP (Jun 19, 2008)

PVC Leaks I haven't had one of those for yeras!!!! Knock on wood!! When I did I just replaced it (Cracked stool flange was the problem) I have seen when a old crew leader of mine use that epoxy putty seemed to work 
The only thing I use that epoxy putty for is for my motorcycles plastic farings after a crash.:whistling2:


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

Ive got a plastic welder we have used on sch 80 cooling process lines for emergency repairs. I have been able to get 12" to stop leaking with it. Expansion and contraction is a problem for bad glue joints even if they don't leak at first. Note, this is just a band-aid fix. We usually go back and cut in a van-stone tee or 90 (whatever was glued in before) and a flange on either side. 

From my experience the two major causes of leakage are poor alignment due to improper measurements and being low on glue and too lazy to walk to the gangbox for more.


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

Also when solvent welding you cant use too much glue either. I dip once, do the hub then the pipe. I was always told that double dipping will apply too much glue.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

USP45 said:


> When you run DWV you once in a while run into a joint that leaks under testing. I usually try the "Wipe primer around and wipe glue around" routine. Sometimes it works, sometimes it dont. I have seen people use a heated coat hanger to try to stop the leak. How do you solve this problem?



Run ABS, of course you knew that already. :laughing:


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

I always run a little extra around the edge of the fitting after I hub it up. Call it my extra insurance:thumbsup:


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

Ron The Plumber said:


> Run ABS, of course you knew that already. :laughing:


Of course!
You have to be different:laughing:


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

I'm doing my first PVC job in two years right now, I'll try to remember to take some pics.


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

Killertoiletspider said:


> I'm doing my first PVC job in two years right now, I'll try to remember to take some pics.



Oh yes, you know we need pix:thumbup:


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

Yes pix from KTS doing PVC, sweet. :thumbsup:


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## 3KP (Jun 19, 2008)

*How I do PVC*

1. Cut the pipe, wipe off burs with my hand (I wear mechanic gloves)
2. Apply Clear Primer to my hub re dip and apply to pipe.
3. Apply glue to pipe and re dip to apply glue to hub (glue is cheaper than a leak!
4. Stick the pipe in the hub and take my primer dobber around out side of hub to help prevent it from sliding out! I still can twist my fitting with out it backing out.

Memo: If you try step 4 when trying to reglue something FORGET about it!!not as forgiving the second time.

I been doing it this way for since I was taught to (long time ago) I haven't have a joint leak for a long time (the only time I have a joint leak if I didn't see the hair line crack in the hub (which only happen once)


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

i use my compound miter to cut, and prime the lip of the pipe too. That helps a lot. But my leaks usually come from the last fitting or two. Maybe its because I get tired?


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## GrumpyPlumber (Jun 12, 2008)

ToUtahNow said:


> Cut out the bad joint and replace it as that is the only code compliant repair.
> 
> Mark


*You are correct, I'd never suggest using a shop vac with open pipes plugged and applying solvent to the affected area, that'd be wrong...just wrong!*


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## I'mYourTourGuide (Jun 23, 2008)

Plumberman said:


> I always run a little extra around the edge of the fitting after I hub it up.


Exactly man, I wipe every joint after "hubbing it up".


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## ToUtahNow (Jul 19, 2008)

GrumpyPlumber said:


> *You are correct, I'd never suggest using a shop vac with open pipes plugged and applying solvent to the affected area, that'd be wrong...just wrong!*


LOL-Wow that would be really clever and I had not thought of that. However, as I know your high standard of work I also know you would never violate the ASTM Standard for making up a PVC joint.

Mark


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## GrumpyPlumber (Jun 12, 2008)

ToUtahNow said:


> LOL-Wow that would be really clever and I had not thought of that. However, as I know your high standard of work I also know you would never violate the ASTM Standard for making up a PVC joint.
> 
> Mark


*I've done it once.*

*Hey, just keepin' it honest here...got a teeny weeper on a 3" tee-wye under a bath group in a basement, had an array of fittings all bunched in one spot with NO room to cut just the fitting out.*

*I screwed the pooch and I knew it...my solvent was running low with no more on the truck and I decided to chance it and try to stretch it for a last couple of fittings.*


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## ToUtahNow (Jul 19, 2008)

GrumpyPlumber said:


> *I've done it once.*
> 
> *Hey, just keepin' it honest here...got a teeny weeper on a 3" tee-wye under a bath group in a basement, had an array of fittings all bunched in one spot with NO room to cut just the fitting out.*
> 
> *I screwed the pooch and I knew it...my solvent was running low with no more on the truck and I decided to chance it and try to stretch it for a last couple of fittings.*


As penance I am certain you must stay up nights wondering just how long that unorthodox repair will last.

Mark :no:


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## GrumpyPlumber (Jun 12, 2008)

ToUtahNow said:


> As penance I am certain you must stay up nights wondering just how long that unorthodox repair will last.
> 
> Mark :no:


*Yes, tonight for example....*


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## ToUtahNow (Jul 19, 2008)

GrumpyPlumber said:


> *Yes, tonight for example....*


Well I am going to bed now and I would suggest you try and do the same.

Mark


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

I have found out that priming and glueing the face of the pipe ensures zero leaks. I did a bunch of water parks, and one of the foreman taught me that. These pipes are suction and return, and have some pressure in them.


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## GrumpyPlumber (Jun 12, 2008)

jjbex said:


> I have found out that priming and glueing the face of the pipe ensures zero leaks. I did a bunch of water parks, and one of the foreman taught me that. These pipes are suction and return, and have some pressure in them.


*I do that.*
*I learned to do it on cell core and I have to admit I think you're right.*
*I was told cell core can leak through pits in the face of the cut so it's a good idea to prime/glue the face, it became habit on all PVC.*
*I very rarely get leaks, I also use at least a 1/4 turn religiously.*


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

How many wait the time specified in the IS as stated in your code book? I have been know to not wait the said time as is says to wait. Most of the time here it would mean 1 hr wait in the winter, summer time would be the 30 min wait, most of the time I give it 15 to 20, longer times if it's a large size above 1"


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