# Moen 67315C kit Faucet



## AKdaplumba (Jan 12, 2010)

This lady is telling me she has low to zero flow on the hot side. First of all just take out the screw and take it apart? Relatively simple? 

http://www.moen.com/integra/chrome-one-handle-low-arc-kitchen-faucet/_/R-CONSUMER:CA67315C

Do I just replace the cartridge? I do new construction, not service, any help is appreciated.

thx


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## futz (Sep 17, 2009)

AKdaplumba said:


> This lady is telling me she has low to zero flow on the hot side. First of all just take out the screw and take it apart? Relatively simple?
> 
> http://www.moen.com/integra/chrome-one-handle-low-arc-kitchen-faucet/_/R-CONSUMER:CA67315C
> 
> ...


Are the integrated supply tubes braided type? If so, I'd look for a twisted (or pinched somewhere) supply tube. Easy to do if you don't have three hands when tightening them (I do have. :laughing: Well... not really.  Actually I use a pliers to hold back on the supply while using my other two wrenches to tighten the nut. It takes some practice to juggle all those tools with two hands. Keeps the supply from twisting into a kinked twist).


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## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

I would guess part of the packing in the stop broke off and is stuck somewhere. 

As futz said first check the supply tube for a kink.


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

AKdaplumba said:


> This lady is telling me she has low to zero flow on the hot side. First of all just take out the screw and take it apart? Relatively simple?
> 
> If you can't find a kinked or squeezed supply line. Take the connection off the stop on the hot side make sure the problem is not in the piping itself.
> Here is the parts breakdown for your faucet. This is not a normal moen cartridge it is the new 1255. Make sure you have one before you start.
> ...


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## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

I have yet to have to repair a new Moen(guess that's a good thing). Until now I didn't know they had a new cartridge.


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## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

I had the exact same thing on a job last week. Moen faucet, no hot water. Customer tried to take it apart, & busted the parts on handle. First thing I did was check to see if I had hot water at angle valve, by trying to turn it off. I could tell easily, by feel, that no washer was left in valve, when I turned it off. Turned off main water, took apart angle valve, & found washer had come off, & was lodged in base of supply line. Nothing to do with faucet. Installed new valve, removed washer, turned back on, & faucet worked great, except for broken handle. (owner contacted Mowin & they were sending him new handle parts for free, so he didn't want me to fix it) Cheap a$$.


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## plumbpro (Mar 10, 2010)

Don The Plumber said:


> I had the exact same thing on a job last week. Moen faucet, no hot water. Customer tried to take it apart, & busted the parts on handle. First thing I did was check to see if I had hot water at angle valve, by trying to turn it off. I could tell easily, by feel, that no washer was left in valve, when I turned it off. Turned off main water, took apart angle valve, & found washer had come off, & was lodged in base of supply line. Nothing to do with faucet. Installed new valve, removed washer, turned back on, & faucet worked great, except for broken handle. (owner contacted Mowin & they were sending him new handle parts for free, so he didn't want me to fix it) Cheap a$$.


You charged for the diagnosis right?


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## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

plumbpro said:


> You charged for the diagnosis right?


 Of course. 1 service call charge + 1 supply valve.


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## AKdaplumba (Jan 12, 2010)

It looks like the nut holding on the handle is what holds the whole thing together. Since Moen is American, the screw is probably phillips?

Im going to check it out sunday, its actually my friends gf. My buddy has the same problem, but I have no clue what brand the faucet is.


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## mialle30 (May 10, 2010)

Try disconnecting the hot side supply at the angle stop and put that end in a bucket. Next turn on the the faucet so that hot and cold are on at the same time. This will cause the cold water to back flow through the hot side and hopefully flush out any debris that could be stuck in the hot side


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## Plumbducky (Jun 12, 2010)

Hopefully your supply house stocks the 1255. Our supply houses still do not stock the 1255 and we have been seeing the new style faucets for some time now.


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## CAPLMBR (Oct 29, 2010)

*Not necessarily faucet*

Here is a quick step by step. Some steps may be no-brainers, but you would hate to go through all the steps and realize it was the easiest remedy.

1) Are there any visible kinks in hot hose? Are there flood prevention supplies @ kitchen faucet (will shut off water if volume is too high). If so they often malfunction not allowing any water to pass through supply.

2) If there is a dishwasher present does it also have no hot water pressure? if not go to step 3. If so go to step 4.

3) Remove hot angle-stop and flush out from piping.

4) Have a bucket ready and disconnect hot water line from faucet and run it into the bucket. If this comes out with good pressure and no debris comes out the refer to step 3. If no pressure from hose remove hot hose and check for obstructions. If clear go to step 2).

5) Before this step be sure you have the right cartridge available in case seals are damaged by the very debris possibly causing the low pressure to begin with. Also make sure you have an Moen extraction tool ready if it is a 1225 cartridge (plastic housing with brass broach). If cartridge is the newer style it will have a stainless steel broach with a notch about an 1/8" groove from tip for allen screw set, then the removal is pretty self explanatory and no extraction tool necessary. Once you have removed the cartridge be sure to have a towel and while holding towel over faucet valve body turn on hot angle-stop and flush body out. reassemble and leak check.

These steps should have solved the symptom of potentially another issue. Follow the next steps to diagnose and correct problem.

A) Has there been any recent work performed on the water service or water related roadwork being performed in your neighborhood? If so dirt may have been shot up into home and hot water may have been the first thing used on that fixture after ground work performed.

B) Is there a circulating system in place? If so is it tied into the blow-down spigot? Is there a check valve? If so after isolating pump area water, (if check valve is spring loaded skip this next sentence). Remove inspection plug for check valve and clean calcium build-up so door "swings" freely. After inspection plug is reinstalled proceed to next step. The above described scenario could be causing flow issues (only on hot side normally) because if no check valve or stuck open check valve the water (especially with pump off) could be pushing all the sediment and calcium that would normally be blown down during bi-annual flush maintenance up into faucets causing blockage. Note; ideal installation would have the return line tied into the cold supply @ top of heater in this order (listed in order of flow), isolation valve...check valve preferably swing...pump...tee to cold supply.

I hope this helps.


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## bigdaddyrob (May 14, 2009)

In the New Contruction World I would say 3/10 shower catridges will leak when the water comes on. Not bad odds with production work. But def can be a problem in remodels etc. My only point is I love moen, but they be ultra sensitive to debri and like stated earlier alot of times when removing the ccatridge your going to damage it with the debri causing the issue. Good Luck, you have been given great advice here.


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## futz (Sep 17, 2009)

bigdaddyrob said:


> In the New Contruction World I would say 3/10 shower catridges will leak when the water comes on. Not bad odds with production work. But def can be a problem in remodels etc. My only point is I love moen, but they be ultra sensitive to debri and like stated earlier alot of times when removing the ccatridge your going to damage it with the debri causing the issue. Good Luck, you have been given great advice here.


Three out of ten?!?! :blink: Holy hell!!! That's crazy! What are you doing to those carts? I sure don't see that many leaking when I turn the water on in either new construction or renovations. Should be more like 1/500 or less. Once in a rare while I'll have one drip and find a little sliver of wood or something that found its way into a waterpipe.

Are you leaving uncapped waterpipe ends during construction? Not taping up coil ends before putting it in the ditch? Has to be something...


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## plumbpro (Mar 10, 2010)

bigdaddyrob said:


> In the New Contruction World I would say 3/10 shower catridges will leak when the water comes on. Not bad odds with production work. But def can be a problem in remodels etc. My only point is I love moen, but they be ultra sensitive to debri and like stated earlier alot of times when removing the ccatridge your going to damage it with the debri causing the issue. Good Luck, you have been given great advice here.


I've only seen 1 leak in new construction, and like futz said, it wad a splinter of wood that caused it. Moen makes a good cartridge IMO, and installation is nice and smooth. Any shower cartridge is going to be sensitive to debris.


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