# Ridgid EZ Change faucet tool



## goeswiththeflow (Feb 24, 2018)

Anyone else have probelms with it? I absolutely love it, esp for stuck faucet retainer nuts and water supplies,
but the teeth keep breaking off when removing stuck tub basket strainers. The last one broke on the first use, and it
was installing a brand new strainer that hadn't even been fully tightened.
I hate to buy a separate tool, but I need a decent basket strainer wrench that won't break. What does everyone else use?
I'll still keep the Ridgid tool for faucet nuts, since I will not use a basin wrench.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

For basket strainers, just take a piece of copper pipe or steel pipe and cut notches in the end. I had one tub strainer that was so corroded in place after 70 years the ONLY tool that worked was a piece of 1-1/4" black iron pipe with notches cut in it. The tub was set in the slab and they would notice the floor being moist after a couple showers.

When you use the pipe with notches it's great because you can drill a hole through for a rod/screwdriver, or even use a pipe wrench on it. For this reason and as cheaters I always keep some pieces of 1/2" through 1-1/2" steel pipe on the van.

I highly suggest you get a tube socket set.


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## goeswiththeflow (Feb 24, 2018)

Excellent idea about the notched pipe. Thanks.
The tube sockets don't have the slit to accomodate the supply line. I love that feature.
The funny thing is, it is the cast aluminum teeth that keep breaking on those Ridgids, not the plastic.


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

I have that Ridgid tool but never think about grabbing it for basket strainers. I’ve always just used my needle nose pliers in the grate to hold it.


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## goeswiththeflow (Feb 24, 2018)

I end up using the needle nose when the ridgid breaks, but they tend to leave marks. Even though it gets covered with the strainer I don't like it.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

I use my tube sockets like this. Did it friday changing out this kohler wide spread faucet. You can also use a piece of pipe with a hole drilled through and a nut/bolt to make a longer socket. I threaded the 3/8" rod that came with the set and also tapped some 5/16" ball valve balls from a watts washing machine valve to use as end caps. Holds everything together nicely. 

The 1-1/2" element socket is a nice addition too, fits a lot of those tall, single hole faucet bodies. You could cut some notches into the round end and use it for kitchen sink baskets.

My only gripe is none of the tube sockets fits the 7/8" flats of central brass three handle shower valve stems. We have A LOT of those CB three handles, more common than moen 1200's. For the CBs I cut the back off a 7/8" deep socket and had it welded to a piece of 3/4" steel pipe to make an extra long socket.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

goeswiththeflow said:


> ..........
> The funny thing is, it is the cast aluminum teeth that keep breaking on those Ridgids, not the plastic.


Because it's not pure/good aluminum, it's the same zinc mix diecast potmetal they use for hot wheels cars and their pipe cutter bodies.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

You don't have to get the ones labeled as "superior tool", just make sure it's the nickel plated set, they are made from better steel than the galvanized ones. They also resist corrosion better. It isn't shown but it will come with a short piece of 9mm steel rod, just shy of 3/8", you can thread it easily like I did for ball ends.

The pasco "smart dumbell" is sold under several different brands and can be handy too. Though I find on the really tough strainers it slips and a notched pipe works better.

There's also the schofield strainer wrench which has a nut on it so it will stay on, I can see it being very handy although I've never had one. 

I use WB deluxe strainer baskets, with the one 1-1/2" thread brass nut I almost never need a second wrench.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

goeswiththeflow said:


> ......
> The tube sockets don't have the *slit to accomodate the supply line*. I love that feature.
> ......


Not sure what you mean. Are you talking about the wide spread faucet valve bodies that have the 1/2" IP connection on the side?


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## Logtec (Jun 3, 2018)

I like these Channel locks for:
basket strainer nuts, the nut for the overflow on a toilet tank, unions on Ptraps etc..


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Logtec said:


> I like these Channel locks for:
> basket strainer nuts, the nut for the overflow on a toilet tank, unions on Ptraps etc..


I just use my "bigazz" channellocks, I think they're the 20" model. Or I just use my angle grinder.


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## MACPLUMB777 (Jun 18, 2008)

skoronesa said:


> I just use my "bigazz" channellocks, I think they're the 20" model. Or I just use my angle grinder.


They are Channel Lock 360'S I used to use on my basket strainers all the time, that was before those 209's came out


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## Logtec (Jun 3, 2018)

skoronesa said:


> I just use my "bigazz" channellocks, I think they're the 20" model. Or I just use my angle grinder.


I have them too, but they’re way to big..
come to the light side, an I haven’t carried my 20” channel locks in years, nor have I needed an angle Grinder.. sometimes a jr hacksaw.


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

skoronesa said:


> I use my tube sockets like this. Did it friday changing out this kohler wide spread faucet. You can also use a piece of pipe with a hole drilled through and a nut/bolt to make a longer socket. I threaded the 3/8" rod that came with the set and also tapped some 5/16" ball valve balls from a watts washing machine valve to use as end caps. Holds everything together nicely.
> 
> The 1-1/2" element socket is a nice addition too, fits a lot of those tall, single hole faucet bodies. You could cut some notches into the round end and use it for kitchen sink baskets.
> 
> ...


That’s a great pro tip, those nuts are tough to grip with a basin wrench.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

I have tube sockets but they never fit except once.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

Just use silicone on your basket strainer and it will hold itself,easy peazy


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## goeswiththeflow (Feb 24, 2018)

skoronesa said:


> Not sure what you mean. Are you talking about the wide spread faucet valve bodies that have the 1/2" IP connection on the side?


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## goeswiththeflow (Feb 24, 2018)

Thanks for all the excellent ideas everyone.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

goeswiththeflow said:


> View attachment 128356



Gotcha, in that scenario I'd use my basin wrench. But the tube sockets would work too.


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## goeswiththeflow (Feb 24, 2018)

If I had nothing else to use but a basin wrench I think I might quit plumbing. I'm sure there's a technique that I never bothered to try to master, but in this one case I'll remain happily ignorant.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

We use 


goeswiththeflow said:


> If I had nothing else to use but a basin wrench I think I might quit plumbing. I'm sure there's a technique that I never bothered to try to master, but in this one case I'll remain happily ignorant.


our basin wrench all the time,I would be lost without it,I use it to loosen clean out tops in the floor also


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

goeswiththeflow said:


> If I had nothing else to use but a basin wrench I think I might quit plumbing. .....


I agree.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

sparky said:


> We use
> 
> our basin wrench all the time,I would be lost without it,I use it to loosen clean out tops in the floor also


Must be plastic c.o.s! I would love to run into some plastic cleanouts in the floors of these institutional buildings. I always deal with brass ones.


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## Lee'sPlumbing (Jul 30, 2018)

Another feature on that rigid tool that works great is the end that fits on multi turn stop handles perfectly. It is great way to shut off old stubborn stops without crushing/tearing the handles. The other end is really the easiest way to install braided supplies to the bottom of lav faucets without over tightening.


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