# Another recommendation thread.



## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

I'm going to be running a special on drain cleaning. The special will be on branch drains. It will be a whole house branch drain special. So if it sells, I will be doing lots of branch drains. I have a k45 and it isn't good enough to use multiple times a job. I would burn it out constantly. I'm looking for a more sturdy machine, perhaps one with detachable heads and preferably longer than the standard 25' cable.

I'm all ears drain guys, what do you think?


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

Spartan 100


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

Gorlitz GO50
http://www.gorlitz.com/pc_combined_...D88755&pc_id=39D9575F47AB4171982CC585C0D88755


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

Why would you run a "special" on drain cleaning, then be so specific as to branch drains?

People call if there is a stoppage, they're not going to call if there is not.


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

RealLivePlumber said:


> Why would you run a "special" on drain cleaning, then be so specific as to branch drains?
> 
> People call if there is a stoppage, they're not going to call if there is not.


Most of the time around here I come to run a line and get while you're here, this one is slow too. Most piping of the same age has debris in it and many houses have most of their branch drains running full. I limited it to branch drains because I. Not pulling the k1500 out for a discount price. When the big daddy comes out, it's full price.


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

I've seen the gorlitz and spartan, they look very similar to the ridgid k400. What's the difference? Are they twice as good as the ridgid? They cost twice as much approx, at least the spartan does.


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

All of our second lines ran are 1/2 price. We did "The whole house" deal at my last company they priced it crazy high for some reason. 

I like the concept. I would rather run a drain that is slow vs stopped. I think the customer would rather control when they pay and when it's done. It's a good deal for those "we need this done about once a year" customers.


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

Maybe a Ridgid K40 or Eel model CT?








Paul


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## Ruudplumber (Feb 21, 2011)

anyone used the model ct?


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

RW Plumbing said:


> Most of the time around here I come to run a line and get while you're here, this one is slow too. Most piping of the same age has debris in it and many houses have most of their branch drains running full. I limited it to branch drains because I. Not pulling the k1500 out for a discount price. When the big daddy comes out, it's full price.


Makes sense. I thought maybe it was for an advertising campaign. 

I tend to charge more for the "while your here's". It usually effs up my day royally. I try to get as much info as possible from the customer, and schedule my day accordingly. They pull that crap cause they think theyll get it cheaper, since your already there. :laughing:

Most of the time, I tell them I'm booked up and will need to come back.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

I like my Model CT, works very well for lavatory or tub drain that are clogged with hair. If it is a blockage past the trap you will need to run a bigger machine like the Model N, Spartan 100, or K50.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

RW Plumbing said:


> I'm going to be running a special on drain cleaning. The special will be on branch drains. It will be a whole house branch drain special. So if it sells, I will be doing lots of branch drains. I have a k45 and it isn't good enough to use multiple times a job. I would burn it out constantly. I'm looking for a more sturdy machine, perhaps one with detachable heads and preferably longer than the standard 25' cable.
> 
> I'm all ears drain guys, what do you think?


 






K-50 is an excellent indoor machine. It can run (3) different size cables: small 5/16" and 3/8", and the larger 5/8". It's made to handle 1 1/4" drains upto 4" lines.


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## UN1TED-WE-PLUMB (Oct 3, 2012)

K-50 is the only way to go!!!!!!!!!
I scored mine at a yard sale for 50 bucks....with cables, rack and everything. I couldn't believe it!!


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

RW Plumbing said:


> I'm going to be running a special on drain cleaning. The special will be on branch drains. It will be a whole house branch drain special. So if it sells, I will be doing lots of branch drains. * I have a k45 and it isn't good enough to use multiple times a job.* *I would burn it out constantly.* I'm looking for a more sturdy machine, perhaps one with detachable heads and preferably longer than the standard 25' cable.
> 
> I'm all ears drain guys, what do you think?




Seriously............... ??? I have four Rigdid pistol rodders in my van one of which is the go-to drill and it has done hundreds of jobs & still runs like new.


Just buy some different cables for the 45 and you're good to go for most lines up to 2".


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

AssTyme said:


> Seriously............... ??? I have four Rigdid pistol rodders in my van one of which is the go-to drill and it has done hundreds of jobs & still runs like new.
> 
> Just buy some different cables for the 45 and you're good to go for most lines up to 2".


I have lots of drains over the 25 feet that you can stick in there. I use the ridgid inner core cables.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

We do offer discounts for additional tasks once we are already on site. But if possible I don't leave it to the customer to know what drains are slow. We evaluate the whole system when on a drain call.

For equipment...K60, 150' 7/8" cable, 75' 5/8" cable.


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

If you want to advertise "branch cleaning", then that's what you should provide.

That means you need to be using a jetter.

Cabling drains relieves blockages or could be discribed as "maintanence" perhaps, but the only thing that provides clean pipes is jetting IMO.

Maybe a good electric jetter or propane powered cart jetter?


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

johnlewismcleod said:


> If you want to advertise "branch cleaning", then that's what you should provide.
> 
> That means you need to be using a jetter.
> 
> ...


On secondary lines hair is the main problem. Jetter would be over kill for that. On a kitchen drain with grease the right cutter head and cable size ( i use 5/8" sectional on 2") with water running while you snake will clean the pipe completely. On the realy bad 2" blockages i'll use my 7/8" sectional, but that usaly requires me to snske through a vent stack.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

I think he was just making a semantic issue of the term drain "CLEANING" as opposed to cabling. I don't think he was saying cabling is not effective, just that the line is "CLEANER" if using a jetter.

OTOH:
Maybe all us cable guys are hacks. :laughing::jester:


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

johnlewismcleod said:


> If you want to advertise "branch cleaning", then that's what you should provide.
> 
> That means you need to be using a jetter.
> 
> ...


I disagree, I can clean a line as good as a jetter with my power rods. I guarantee my drain line roddings for two years, and very rarely get a call back. This year I had one call back, and it was a sink line that a year after I rodded it, the in-laws came over and put 10 pounds of potato peels down the drain.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

SewerRatz said:


> I disagree, I can clean a line as good as a jetter with my power rods....


I respectfully disagree SR.

Once the blockage is removed with cable heads of various styles, there will often still be visible residue on the side walls and top of the pipe. When I camera freshly cabled lines that had a lot of waste or food build up, I usually see spiral stripes in the residue along the length of the pipe. 

A jetter can wash away that in ways that a cable cannot. I'm not saying jetting is necessarily "better", just different. That said, the pipes are tested by flow, not looks. So again, The jetter probably does clean the pipe better but that doesn't necessarily make cabling less effective.

I agree with you on the effectiveness of the job done right with cable by the way. We do just fine with them and I don't currently feel the specific need to gear up with a jetter. Sure it would be nice to have but we do fine with the cables.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

plbgbiz said:


> I respectfully disagree SR.
> 
> Once the blockage is removed with cable heads of various styles, there will often still be visible residue on the side walls and top of the pipe. When I camera freshly cabled lines that had a lot of waste or food build up, I usually see spiral stripes in the residue along the length of the pipe.
> 
> ...


Which is why using a kinky rod will do a better job than new cable on short drain run.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

plbgbiz said:


> I respectfully disagree SR.
> 
> Once the blockage is removed with cable heads of various styles, there will often still be visible residue on the side walls and top of the pipe. When I camera freshly cabled lines that had a lot of waste or food build up, I usually see spiral stripes in the residue along the length of the pipe.
> 
> ...


I have had cities, want me to jet or replace a line due to the build up and said the same thing you just did. That after cabling a line there is still noticeable residue on the pipe. I had one of these cities televise a line after a respected plumber rodded the line, and the city said the line needed a good jetting and if that does not work then it needs to be replaced. I told them let me run my rod through and then they can televise the line again. If they feel that I did not do a good job, no one pays me, but if the line is clear then pay me for my time. When they televised the line after I rodded it, they where shocked, they all where commenting how the pipe looked like it was brand new again. Ever since then the city recommends me to many people as a last resort before replacing heavy scaled pipe.

Now the above example was 4" cast iron mains. I have the same results with 1 1/2", 2" and 3" lines. I have seen guys that jetted lines and televised it afterwords and you can see residue on the pipe walls and the streaks cut in to it from the spray pattern on the jetter nozzle. A few more passes would of resolved that issue, same goes with power rodding with the right heads and taking the time to let the tool do the work, and forcing it as fast as it can go down the line.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

SewerRatz said:


> I have had cities, want me to jet or replace a line due to the build up and said the same thing you just did. That after cabling a line there is still noticeable residue on the pipe. I had one of these cities televise a line after a respected plumber rodded the line, and the city said the line needed a good jetting and if that does not work then it needs to be replaced. I told them let me run my rod through and then they can televise the line again. If they feel that I did not do a good job, no one pays me, but if the line is clear then pay me for my time. When they televised the line after I rodded it, they where shocked, they all where commenting how the pipe looked like it was brand new again. Ever since then the city recommends me to many people as a last resort before replacing heavy scaled pipe.
> 
> Now the above example was 4" cast iron mains. I have the same results with 1 1/2", 2" and 3" lines. I have seen guys that jetted lines and televised it afterwords and you can see residue on the pipe walls and the streaks cut in to it from the spray pattern on the jetter nozzle. A few more passes would of resolved that issue, same goes with power rodding with the right heads and taking the time to let the tool do the work, and forcing it as fast as it can go down the line.


A good example of why the tool is never as important as the man using it.


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

What Biz said...I didn't mean to imply that cables aren't good for clearing lines. Rodding is always my first tool.

I was referring strictly to the use of the term "cleaning" for RW's advertisement.


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

johnlewismcleod said:


> What Biz said...I didn't mean to imply that cables aren't good for clearing lines. Rodding is always my first tool.
> 
> I was referring strictly to the use of the term "cleaning" for RW's advertisement.


I get what you're saying but for 99% of people cleaning and rodding are the same thing. I think the common term snaking a drain sounds unprofessional. What I would be worried about is saying drain rodding and have no one know what I'm talking about. You still clean the line with a rod machine, pulling out hair and debris is cleaning. I guess I could say drain clearing.


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

plbgbiz said:


> We do offer discounts for additional tasks once we are already on site. But if possible I don't leave it to the customer to know what drains are slow. We evaluate the whole system when on a drain call.
> 
> For equipment...K60, 150' 7/8" cable, 75' 5/8" cable.




The 5/8" sectional cable is clearing all 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" lines ? Going around old cast & copper 90's ?


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## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

I highly recommend the K50. 7ft sectional

I have a K50 that I use for lav drains mostly, & alot of kitchen drains too. I have several extra 7ft sections of cable. When I clean out a lav drain, there is no easy way to run water through, & that stuff comes out, like thick black soup, when you pull the cables out. And that black stuff does not clean up, or off of anything, very easily. 

So what I do on lav drains is this; take blue painters tape, & tape a 8in or bigger square all around the drain opening, so no wall is exposed. Then I take newspapers & tape up the whole inside of the cabinet, floors, walls, everything. Takes 5 minutes tops. Then when I'm done running the cable, or cables through, I take a cardboard box, lined with newspapers (or a 5 gal bucket works too), & pull the cables back out by hand, all the while this black mud is dripping or running, out the drain opening, & into the box.(never run those mucked up cables back through your machine:no I wrap the cable in the box, throw the whole box, cable & all, in a garbage bag, along with all the news papers,take it outside, to deal with later.

Then if I got another drain to clear, whether its at same job, or another one that day, I simply use another cable, & do the same thing over again. When you pick up those newspapers, & peel that tape off wall, you would never even know I was there. I see so many guys make a mess, when there is no reason for it. And believe me, customers appreciate that. And I also add a few bucks to the bill for cable clean up afterwards. Just my .02


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

Don The Plumber said:


> I highly recommend the K50. 7ft sectional
> 
> I have a K50 that I use for lav drains mostly, & alot of kitchen drains too. I have several extra 7ft sections of cable. When I clean out a lav drain, there is no easy way to run water through, & that stuff comes out, like thick black soup, when you pull the cables out. And that black stuff does not clean up, or off of anything, very easily.
> 
> ...




Way too much drama for me especially on a day with several sink roddings or in the winter.

Has the tape ever pulled any paint/surface material off the cabinet or walls ?

I do around 300 sinks a year and can't even remember the last callback I've had on a sink. MAYBE one per year ???



I'll ask you the same question. 

Is the 5/8" sectional cable clearing all 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" lines ? Going around old cast & copper 90's ?


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

AssTyme said:


> The 5/8" sectional cable is clearing all 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" lines ? Going around old cast & copper 90's ?


Yeah.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

If you are running the k50 with the 5/8 cables, you can clean them in the line. I run out enough to ensure I make it into the main, then run the cable coupling right up to the pipe in the wall. Then I remove the extra cable at that coupling, then I slide the trap arm over the cable and reassamble the p-trap. Now I can run water to flush the line and cleans off the cables.


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## Ruudplumber (Feb 21, 2011)

have a spartan 100 want something lighter for small lines. need to buy a unit to replace my old marco matic... best machine for 3/8 x 25' cable........


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## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

I like the idea of running a special with drain cleaning. What I do not like is running a price special. People that paid regular price become angry; those that receive the special pricing will always want that price when the special is over. 

I like the idea to clear 1 line and the second line is less to cover the while you are here crowd. Personally I would rather stay at 1 home for 2 grand a day then travel to 8 different people for that same 2 grand. Can always reschedule a call for money in hand verses money that should be in my hand.

I use the K50 drain machine with 5/8 cables anything under 2 inches, tub and shower traps the k38 drum with the k-50.

I agree that a drain machine can clear a line as good as a good hydro jetting however the difference is in the time spent to do the job. Hydro jetting takes less time.


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

Richard Hilliard said:


> I like the idea of running a special with drain cleaning. What I do not like is running a price special. People that paid regular price become angry; those that receive the special pricing will always want that price when the special is over.
> 
> I like the idea to clear 1 line and the second line is less to cover the while you are here crowd. Personally I would rather stay at 1 home for 2 grand a day then travel to 8 different people for that same 2 grand. Can always reschedule a call for money in hand verses money that should be in my hand.
> 
> ...


I completely agree. This is why my special is on multiple drains not one single. The only money saved comes into play after the first drain at full price. Really, I'm not doing discounts at all. You don't have to travel time, or gas expense of multiple trips. Customers get the benefit or having all drains that need servicing done for a lower price than individually.


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

plbgbiz said:


> Yeah.





Really........ hard to believe 5/8" sectional will turn a 1 1/4" 90. Sometimes I have trouble with different 1/4" - 5/16" cables.

Must be the almighty reverse auger ?


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## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

SewerRatz said:


> If you are running the k50 with the 5/8 cables, you can clean them in the line. I run out enough to ensure I make it into the main, then run the cable coupling right up to the pipe in the wall. Then I remove the extra cable at that coupling, then I slide the trap arm over the cable and reassamble the p-trap. Now I can run water to flush the line and cleans off the cables.


 I'd be afraid of losing the cable doing that. IMO, pulling out the cable, gets the heaviest muck out, rather than trying to wash it down. Messy I know. But I take a few extra precautions, so there are no accidents.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

AssTyme said:


> Really........ hard to believe 5/8" sectional will turn a 1 1/4" 90. Sometimes I have trouble with different 1/4" - 5/16" cables.
> 
> Must be the almighty reverse auger ?


My 5/8" eel sectional will go through them no trouble, can't speak for Ridgids 5/8" sectional, but if my eel can, id the the ridgid would also.


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## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

AssTyme said:


> Way too much drama for me especially on a day with several sink roddings or in the winter.
> 
> Has the tape ever pulled any paint/surface material off the cabinet or walls ?
> 
> ...


Its blue painters tape. Thats what its for. No worry about paint pulling off. I use it to tape up plastic tarps on walls in finished basements too, when using the big sewer machine. What do you 90 mile an hr guys do? Let the $hit fly all over? You never gotta cover any walls or carpet, or furniture? Heck I carry atleast 3 rolls of that painters tape, along with plastic covering. If I gotta use it, I charge for it. Customers don't want to have to clean that crap up. Now if the basement is flooded already, I realize its a no brainer, cuz the damage is done. But I do alot of prevetative maint. on sewer lines with roots, &/or previous backups. So these customers don't want a mess, when I'm there trying to prevent a mess from happening.

Sorry about drama, just hard to explain. No big deal, everyone has their own way. For me, its 5 minutes to have it covered & taped off, & no possibility for spills. Thats just me, I'm old, I aint racing around trying to be superman anymore. Cuz I don't have to. So I take my time, & do it properly, safely, & ultra clean always. No matter what the condition of the house is.

Most all the lav drains I clear are 1 1/2", & 5/8" sectional goes through, no problem. 300 sink clears a year? My head hurts just thinkin about that. So does my back. :laughing:


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

Will said:


> My 5/8" eel sectional will go through them no trouble, can't speak for Ridgids 5/8" sectional, but if my eel can, id the the ridgid would also.




Might have to look at that Model N.

There are always several per year that I have problems with, always seems to be at 90's.

Hard to believe the 5/8" cable with a cutter attached will make the turn. I would think that the stiff no flex coupling area/section would be too much to make the turn.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

AssTyme said:


> Might have to look at that Model N.
> 
> There are always several per year that I have problems with, always seems to be at 90's.
> 
> Hard to believe the 5/8" cable with a cutter attached will make the turn. I would think that the stiff no flex coupling area/section would be too much to make the turn.


You wont get much of a cutter through them, but the flexible auger will. You should definitely look at the Model N. Its a great machine.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

AssTyme said:


> Really........ hard to believe 5/8" sectional will turn a 1 1/4" 90. Sometimes I have trouble with different 1/4" - 5/16" cables.
> 
> Must be the almighty reverse auger ?


 






I have (2) different 5/8" sectional cables for my K-50:* C8* & *C9*. Both are 5/8" but the *C9* is 10' lengths and it's stiff and not that flexible. Best suited for 2"-4" drain lines.

The *C8* is more flexible and supple. The* C8* comes in 7 1/2' lengths and it's a lighter duty cable which is better suited for 1 1/4" through 2" lines. Obviously with 5/8" cable, even Ridgid's *C8*, the p-traps are to be removed if possible.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

AssTyme said:


> Really........ hard to believe 5/8" sectional will turn a 1 1/4" 90. Sometimes I have trouble with different 1/4" - 5/16" cables.
> 
> Must be the almighty reverse auger ?


I don't know what a reverse auger is but we don't have a problem using the 5/8 on smaller drains.


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## Aaron's (Nov 2, 2012)

You need a set of Burton cables. From las Vegas Nevada. I can clear and clean anything.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

plbgbiz said:


> *I don't know what a reverse* *auger is* but we don't have a problem using the 5/8 on smaller drains.


 






I think that's an inside joke over at another forum. I read something about the 'reverse auger bit' over at the Ridgid drain cleaning forum once.


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## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

Tommy plumber said:


> I think that's an inside joke over at another forum. I read something about the 'reverse auger bit' over at the Ridgid drain cleaning forum once.


 
could this be a retreiver head?


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

plbgbiz said:


> I don't know what a reverse auger is but we don't have a problem using the 5/8 on smaller drains.





Tommy plumber said:


> I think that's an inside joke over at another forum. I read something about the 'reverse auger bit' over at the Ridgid drain cleaning forum once.


Not an inside joke. Rick from the Ridgid forum came up with it so sometimes we'll call it a reverse rick auger.

Next time you have a damaged sectional, cut the male end off right behind the tight wind. Straighten the tip and grinda point. Heat up and quench in oil to harden the tip. Put a little 45 bend right behind the tip. 

Run it like normal and the steamlined head will slip pass obstructions and traps with ease. I can go through a cast iron 1-1/4 trap with no problems. Once you hit the obstruction, run the machine in reverse and it'll grab everything. 

The reason why this is effective is the cable is thicker metal then the screw and funnel augers and won't deform under pressure. By having the long "cutter head" it feeds easier then if you used a screw auger. You can't unscrew the cable from the female connector either.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Now this pic is one that Rick had posted awhile back while using the reverse auger. 

I personally prefer jetting whenever possible because it's easier on the body and does a better result.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

gear junkie said:


> Not an inside joke. Rick from the Ridgid forum came up with it so sometimes we'll call it a reverse rick auger.
> 
> Next time you have a damaged sectional, cut the male end off right behind the tight wind. Straighten the tip and grinda point. Heat up and quench in oil to harden the tip. Put a little 45 bend right behind the tip.
> 
> ...


He came up with it? :laughing: I learned it from Gramps when I was 12. Dammit I knew I should have patented more of the old man's ideas. 

I don't think I have ever used a Ridgid auger. I always just called my broken cable a whip. And yes, it always has a bend at the end. Usually the whip is 2' to 3' long. The thought of using the augers from Ridgid that are wound opposite to the cable is just stupid to me. With the cable whip I have complete control of everything the cable does. I'll try to remember to post a pic of one tomorrow.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

He was the first to post about it and we all thought he was crazy for using it but it worked. Sounds like rick, you and gramps were the only 3 that knew about it. So what other great ideas did your grandpa teach you?


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

gear junkie said:


> ....So what other great ideas did your grandpa teach you?


Not to come home from a date with anything that Lava soap wouldn't wash off. :laughing:


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## plumberinlaw (Jan 13, 2010)

We always call the broken cable cutter a monkey bit. Been using them since I got into drain cleaning.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Tommy plumber said:


> I have (2) different 5/8" sectional cables for my K-50:* C8* & *C9*. Both are 5/8" but the *C9* is 10' lengths and it's stiff and not that flexible. Best suited for 2"-4" drain lines.
> 
> The *C8* is more flexible and supple. The* C8* comes in 7 1/2' lengths and it's a lighter duty cable which is better suited for 1 1/4" through 2" lines. Obviously with 5/8" cable, even Ridgid's *C8*, the p-traps are to be removed if possible.


 






These are those two different K-50 5/8" cables. In the closeup picture, you can acutally see one winding is thicker than the other. Even though both cables are the same 5/8", one is stiffer than the other.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Covers 1-1/4 thru 6. 

If I'm feelin' frisky it tackles 8" as well.


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## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

gear junkie said:


> Not an inside joke. Rick from the Ridgid forum came up with it so sometimes we'll call it a reverse rick auger.
> 
> Next time you have a damaged sectional, cut the male end off right behind the tight wind. Straighten the tip and grinda point. Heat up and quench in oil to harden the tip. Put a little 45 bend right behind the tip.
> 
> ...


 
I have been doing this for 30 years the point acts as a drill bit and pulls through scale.


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## PLUMB TIME (Feb 2, 2009)

Tommy plumber said:


> These are those two different K-50 5/8" cables. In the closeup picture, you can acutally see one winding is thicker than the other. Even though both cables are the same 5/8", one is stiffer than the other.


Good idea with the oil pan! Will be using that idea, thanks.:thumbsup:


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

PLUMB TIME said:


> Good idea with the oil pan! Will be using that idea, thanks.:thumbsup:


 






Don't thank me, I borrowed the idea from Gear Junkie. I just plagerized the idea.......


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## plumberdad70 (Sep 29, 2012)

been doing that for years, old piece of cable, some good kinks in it and it well beat the hell out of a blockage and scale with no problem!!!!!


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## victoryplbaz (May 19, 2012)

SewerRatz said:


> If you are running the k50 with the 5/8 cables, you can clean them in the line. I run out enough to ensure I make it into the main, then run the cable coupling right up to the pipe in the wall. Then I remove the extra cable at that coupling, then I slide the trap arm over the cable and reassamble the p-trap. Now I can run water to flush the line and cleans off the cables.


 
never thought of doing that!! good idea!!


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## victoryplbaz (May 19, 2012)

The machine is only as good as the operator. If the operator dont have a clue what hes doing. He can trash a cable in oh lets say....3 mins.. Yes i had a guy trash a new 3/4 ridgid 100ft cable with a intercore..only thing that was good about it...he didnt get his dam fingers caught in it.


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## JK949 (Mar 18, 2009)

victoryplbaz said:


> The machine is only as good as the operator. If the operator dont have a clue what hes doing. He can trash a cable in oh lets say....3 mins.. Yes i had a guy trash a new 3/4 ridgid 100ft cable with a intercore..only thing that was good about it...he didnt get his dam fingers caught in it.


GEEZ, I said I was sorry, legit go already. :jester:


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## tungsten plumb (Apr 15, 2010)

I have the General Drain Rooter Ph it has multiple heads and you can use 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8. I also have a electric eel model n but never used it with duelmatic cable but will and ron say its one of the best secondary line machine out there. I use it with 100' of 1/2


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## jc-htownplumber (Feb 29, 2012)

Here in Houston John Moore was running a special they'll clear any DRAIN for like 70$ clean out accessible only


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

Will said:


> My 5/8" eel sectional will go through them no trouble, can't speak for Ridgids 5/8" sectional, but if my eel can, id the the ridgid would also.




I see the Eel 5/8" sectional cable has a 5/16" inner core cable.

If my various standard 1/4" & 5/16" cables aren't making the turn how is the 5/8" Daulmatic cable going to do so ???


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

I have a small attachment for my K-50 that has 5/16" cable. The other (2) cable sizes I have are 5/8" & 7/8".


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## AlbacoreShuffle (Aug 28, 2011)

Tommy plumber said:


> I have a small attachment for my K-50 that has 5/16" cable. The other (2) cable sizes I have are 5/8" & 7/8".


Can you get through a 1 1/2 tub trap ?
If you use it on a tub , how do you keep from buggering up the finish on the tub ?


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

AlbacoreShuffle said:


> Can you get through a 1 1/2 tub trap ?
> If you use it on a tub , how do you keep from buggering up the finish on the tub ?


 






I usually start with a regular closet auger for bathtubs, (of course if cust. asks about a W/C auger in their tub, I'm using the tub auger. There's another one in the truck for toilets....:laughing 

Another option is, set up the K-50 in the tub on drop-cloths and use the 5/16" cable to try and get into the trap.


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## Cuda (Mar 16, 2009)

SewerRatz said:


> I disagree, I can clean a line as good as a jetter with my power rods. I guarantee my drain line roddings for two years, and very rarely get a call back. This year I had one call back, and it was a sink line that a year after I rodded it, the in-laws came over and put 10 pounds of potato peels down the drain.


Well if I was forced at gun point to lick a sewer you just cleaned Ron and one I jetted I think I am going to lick the jetted line lmao


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## HSI (Jun 3, 2011)

I have used my urinal auger on tub and shower traps with descent success.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

AssTyme said:


> I see the Eel 5/8" sectional cable has a 5/16" inner core cable.
> 
> If my various standard 1/4" & 5/16" cables aren't making the turn how is the 5/8" Daulmatic cable going to do so ???



Maybe the 1/4"/5/16 is too flimsy? Or maybe the winding of the 5/8" help "self feed" it through? Not sure, but I can get the 5/8" Dualmatic Eel cable through allmost anything.


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## plumberdad70 (Sep 29, 2012)

Hey Tommy, dose the k-50 run the 7/8 and the 5/8 to??


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

plumberdad70 said:


> Hey Tommy, dose the k-50 run the 7/8 and the 5/8 to??


No. 5/8 is as big as it goes. It can run 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 with drum adapter


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

plumberdad70 said:


> Hey Tommy, dose the k-50 run the 7/8 and the 5/8 to??


 






No. The K-50 won't run 7/8" cable. The 7/8" cable is for a K-60.

I realize my post may be mis-leading. The biggest cable a K-50 will run is 5/8".


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## plumberdad70 (Sep 29, 2012)

thats what i was thinking, just miss understood what you ment.:blink: i just bought a k-50 with just a drum of 5/16 cable, no 5/8 yet!!


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

plumberdad70 said:


> thats what i was thinking, just miss understood what you ment.:blink: i just bought a k-50 with just a drum of 5/16 cable, no 5/8 yet!!


 






The K-50 is a great machine. I love it. When you purchase the 5/8" cable, they make different temper cables. They have an open wind and a stiffer cable. One is a stiff, heavy-duty cable more suitable for 2"-4" lines, and the other more flexible cable is best suited for 1 1/4"-2" lines.


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## plumberdad70 (Sep 29, 2012)

Don't know if I am going to because I'm not a big sectional fan but I could not pass up the deal I got on this k-50!! But we will see!!!


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