# P-trap



## kellybhutchings

Does anyone know of a p-trap that is made for when the sink drain coming out of the wall is a little to tall. The p-trap on the sink right now is a regular one turned backwards, but it is not very seccure.


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## Protech

Yeah, it called a "cut open the wall and lower the waste arm" style p-trap


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## Christina

(OK, I have to say it... :laughing

*Have you thought about one of those accordian type extensions?*

Just think... you could make the trap and the extension all with one piece. :jester: J/K

So, no seriously, none known of... sorry, Kelly.


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## Bill

Nope. Do the right thing. Cut the wall out and lower the pipe. I have done it a lot. Its a pain, but the cure is $


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## TheMaster

If the existing sink is really deep you might could get alittle room by installing a shallow sink like the ones was there when they orginally built the place.....it prolly use to be a single bowl and they converted to a double bowl at some point. just a guess.


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## 1703

there is such a thing as a low inlet p trap, but lowering the arm is the best, IMO.


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## Protech

A 2" trap seal is a 2" trap seal. I don't see how you you can get a low inlet trap and still have a 2" seal.


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## TheMaster

A 1.5" sch 40 p-trap with an insert pvc trap adapter will be closer than a 1.5" tubular.


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## kellybhutchings

I know lowering the waste arm is best, but its an elderly lady with little money and she will probably live with it like it is, but I could have sworn that saw a p-trap like that before.


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## TheMaster

What size pipe is it and what kinda trap are you using? tubular brass or plastic? pvc sch 40?


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## SlickRick

kellybhutchings said:


> I know lowering the waste arm is best, but its an elderly lady with little money and she will probably live with it like it is, but I could have sworn that saw a p-trap like that before.


If you find some, pick me up a dozen!......I'm just sayin'


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## ILPlumber

Make your own p-trap out of sch 40 fittings. A deep seal trap can be up to 8" seal in IL. 

I wouldn't do that with a disposal though. 

This is not the best solution but, it is the cheapest.


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## TheMaster

The King has spoken......now go plumb my son:laughing:


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## Redwood

Yea but can an Illinois trap be used in Texas?:whistling2:


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## SlickRick

Redwood said:


> Yea but can an Illinois trap be used in Texas?:whistling2:


We try not to import from foreign countries.....


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## GREENPLUM

????


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## TheMaster

Redwood said:


> Yea but can an Illinois trap be used in Texas?:whistling2:


 Very good redwood. I thought since Il responded in the manner that he did.......that the original poster was in Illinois. :laughing:


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## Bill

Redwood said:


> Yea but can an Illinois trap be used in Texas?:whistling2:


Yeh, its called a "Texinois, or a Illexas" trap:laughing:


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## gusty60

kellybhutchings said:


> Does anyone know of a p-trap that is made for when the sink drain coming out of the wall is a little to tall. The p-trap on the sink right now is a regular one turned backwards, but it is not very seccure.


Radiator hose and two clamps.:laughing:


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## ToUtahNow

Texas uses the IPS which allows a trap depth of between 2" - 4". They also have some language which allows it deeper if need be for accessibility reasons.

Mark


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## 1703

Protech said:


> A 2" trap seal is a 2" trap seal. I don't see how you you can get a low inlet trap and still have a 2" seal.


I don't know what the trap seal is. I might have some laying around the shop. I'll see what they measure.


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## kellybhutchings

it has 1.5" tubler platic on there now hooked to 1.5" copper at the wall


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## SlickRick

kellybhutchings said:


> it has 1.5" tubler platic on there now hooked to 1.5" copper at the wall


I assume we are talking kit. since it is 1 1/2. If they changed sinks or added disposal. You know one or the other, drain goes down or sink drains go up!...


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## pauliplumber

NOT the best way to do it, It won't LOOK pretty, but given the situation as you described....

Use a 1 1/2 plastic X 1 1/2 copper mission clamp or any properly sized transition coupling, installed to copper pipe coming out of wall. Preferably one with the steel band. If you can't find one, a properly sized fernco would work. Then, as IL plum was eluding to, make your own trap out of sched. 40 90's. This will be a deep seal trap, probably not to code, but will work just fine. Everything is situational.


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## RealLivePlumber

Or sweat a c female adaptor on the trap arm, transtion to pvc with a male adaptor, and use a sch 40. p trap (solvent weld u-bend & service el). Deep seal it is. 

Get it done.


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## spudwrench

Charlotte makes a scd40 p-trap in 1 1/2 that has a nut so that it can be taken apart from the "arm". Glue a ftg. trap adapter in the inlet side and it will drop you about 1 1/2".As said on here, not a good idea for a disposer, and use a no-hub coupling on the threads of the copper trap adapter at the wall to go to pvc. Grandma will thank you. The best low cost setup that I can come up with. Good Luck.


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## para1

...........this might help


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## Plumber Jim

para1 said:


> ...........this might help


I think i saw a ride at a water park like that. :blink:


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## 1703

Regular p trap vs. low inlet p trap- 1 1/2"


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## kellybhutchings

I fixed it, wish I had a camera. I used a pvc tubular coupling on the p-trap arm facing down and used a j bend with a swivel nut on the low side that screwed right on to the coupling. That coupling was about 2" long so it added about 2" of trap seal, but everything worked well.


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