# Compression angle stops



## PunkRockPlumber (Mar 26, 2012)

Do you guys use them? Are they reliable? Has anyone had any issues with them? I've only used the sweat type and was just looking for some opinions.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Use them plenty. No issues at all.


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## Fullmetal Frank (Jul 11, 2012)

Never had a problem with compressions, compressed properly.


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## 130 PLUMBER (Oct 22, 2009)

I never has any issues at all with the *Compression angle stops*


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## deerslayer (Mar 29, 2012)

Personally I prefer them over sweat


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## Shanesplumbing (Mar 14, 2012)

I prefer sweat stops and use 1/4 turn. I will use compression on rare occasions and have not had problems. The main issue, is someone before me overtightened.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Shanesplumbing said:


> I prefer sweat stops and use 1/4 turn. I will use compression on rare occasions and have not had problems. The main issue, is someone before me overtightened.


I hate those quarter turn stops...


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## ditchdigger (Aug 12, 2012)

Put on thousands never had an issue


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## stecar (Mar 18, 2012)

Not a fan of sweat, especially when they are tight to a wall.


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## TallCoolOne (Dec 19, 2010)

I have installed thousands of them, No issues.


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## HSI (Jun 3, 2011)

Installed a lot of the 1/4 turn compression angle stops with out issue. The majority of the stops I change out are compression style and have been in use thirty plus years.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

We don't use comp stops, it makes it easier for hacks to replace them, and comp stops are a no no on cpvc. cpvc gets the glue on stops and copper gets the solder stops. On pex we usually use the crimp stops.

There's one exception, if the stop is in a place that prevents soldering then we use the comp stops. 

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

I use Brasscraft G2CR19C. I put a little silicon grease on the ferrule and don't blast them on. Ridgid makes a nice little stop wrench, so I don't over torque them.
http://www.brasscraft.com/Products.aspx?Id=201


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## JAraiza (May 7, 2012)

What methods are you guys using to remove stubborn ferrules?


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## Gettinit (May 9, 2012)

JAraiza said:


> What methods are you guys using to remove stubborn ferrules?


Cut them right behind the ferrule.


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## PunkRockPlumber (Mar 26, 2012)

In gonna try some 1/4" turn comp stops on a renovation I'm doing. Doesn't seem to be any bad reviews. I've got a bunch of stub outs that are very close to the wall so I'd figure I would give these a shot.


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## Gettinit (May 9, 2012)

I have put many on with no problems but prefer soldered stops.

Any hack can change the stem or the 000 washer.


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## MarkToo (Dec 17, 2011)

I've never installed a compression stop in 11 1/2 years in the trade. We've always just sweated them on. The only time you see them around here is when the DIY guys are on the job and even then it's rare.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

I ALWAYS take them apart and silcone greased the stem before putting them in service. Next plumber down the road will thank me for that.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

JAraiza said:


> What methods are you guys using to remove stubborn ferrules?


Channellocks.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

JAraiza said:


> What methods are you guys using to remove stubborn ferrules?


use a mini hacksaw to cut diagonaly across the ferrule.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

422 plumber said:


> Channellocks.


 What the name of the tool to cut and remove stuck ferrule?


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

I use this...










And this...


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## jc-htownplumber (Feb 29, 2012)

I have use all but my preference is a male adaptor with a female stop


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

jc-htownplumber said:


> I have use all but my preference is a male adaptor with a female stop


Could you translate?


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

PunkRockPlumber said:


> Do you guys use them? Are they reliable? Has anyone had any issues with them? I've only used the sweat type and was just looking for some opinions.


 






You gotta let us know when you guys change your on-line names....K? {Mikebkny78}that's you, isn't it?


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## ditchdigger (Aug 12, 2012)

On pex we use drop eared 90 screwed to board with galvanized nipple coming out with screw on angle stop .On copper we use comp stop


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

ditchdigger said:


> On pex we use drop eared 90 screwed to board with galvanized nipple coming out with screw on angle stop .On copper we use comp stop



Why wouldn't you use a brass nipple?


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## Fullmetal Frank (Jul 11, 2012)

Brass would be better.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Killertoiletspider said:


> Why wouldn't you use a brass nipple?


 






Maybe those guys like a little squirt of rust when they turn on the faucet.....:laughing:


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Killertoiletspider said:


> Why wouldn't you use a brass nipple?


My guess is $.


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## ditchdigger (Aug 12, 2012)

Guess the galvanized didn't fly with all these perfect plumbers. Lol.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

On pex we use copper stub outs with sweat stops.

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


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## ditchdigger (Aug 12, 2012)

Mississippiplum said:


> On pex we use copper stub outs with sweat stops.
> 
> sent from the jobsite porta-potty


I gotcha I save a little bit on labor and get them exactly the same height pretty quick doing it this way I do agree though brass would be much better.


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## MarkToo (Dec 17, 2011)

ditchdigger said:


> Guess the galvanized didn't fly with all these perfect plumbers. Lol.



We aren't allowed galv on a potable system. I've taken to buying stainless nipples when needed as they've become cheaper than brass believe it or not.


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## ditchdigger (Aug 12, 2012)

plbgbiz said:


> My guess is $.


One way or another the $ comes into play in about every decision that's the nature of the beast.


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## PunkRockPlumber (Mar 26, 2012)

Tommy plumber said:


> You gotta let us know when you guys change your on-line names....K?


Correct. My bad Tom.


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## jc-htownplumber (Feb 29, 2012)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Could you translate?


Sweat a male adaptor to he stub out and put a female thread angle stop


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## Flyguy199 (Sep 20, 2011)

I use them all the time....no issues.


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

Never had an issue with compression stops. In fact less chance of damage on a trim, less tools involved in installation, less water issues on a change out.


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## jc-htownplumber (Feb 29, 2012)

This way when when to stop does fail its an easy repair


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

Sweat stops are for old men. Compression is where its at. They are code in my state thats all ive installed the past 12 years. Except a few times the supply house ran out of compression. Pain in the but have to bring in torch on a finish or service call when I only need channel locks and my trusty Ridgid one stop wrench. Time is money.


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## Bayside500 (May 16, 2009)

theplumbinator said:


> Sweat stops are for old men. Compression is where its at. They are code in my state thats all ive installed the past 12 years. Except a few times the supply house ran out of compression. Pain in the but have to bring in torch on a finish or service call when I only need channel locks and my trusty Ridgid one stop wrench. Time is money.


why the channel locks ?


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

theplumbinator said:


> Sweat stops are for old men. Compression is where its at. They are code in my state thats all ive installed the past 12 years. Except a few times the supply house ran out of compression. Pain in the but have to bring in torch on a finish or service call when I only need channel locks and my trusty Ridgid one stop wrench. Time is money.


Another third year apprentice that thinks he knows it all.

That cant operate on of them things that get real hot. 

Its called a torch, kid.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

I prefer threaded stops. Put in a drop ear elbow and a brass nipple, and you are good to go. If I am changing a compression stop, I install a sweat stop in its place.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

theplumbinator said:


> Sweat stops are for old men.....


...


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

Well we used to wipe lead, pour lead joints, run cast, use galvanized, install Cantex clay and field tile for the most part not any more.

Change and time saving is inevitable, get up to speed or be left behind. In some areas union influence inhiibits change by hanging on to out dated materials like cast (for most applications), etc. to make the installation harder not always better, not always a bad thing.

I'll take my P.V.C. and compressions stops over cast and a torch everytime, P.S. not a third year apprentice here,,,,,,,


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

I don't hate on the old guys I learned from. Im just not a big fan of using a torch inside of a $1000 vanity cabinet if I don't have to. The reason I don't dig using a drop ear elbow and a red or yellow brass nipple with an ips stop is because the water here is so hard and acidic they eventually wind up rotting off inside a wall then im back in two years with a nightmare on my hands. I will do it on a tub spout but im not a fan on an angle stop in this area of NJ unless my customer has a neutralizer and water softner.


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## PunkRockPlumber (Mar 26, 2012)

Ok. So What if there is a drip on a 1/4 turn stop? Comp or sweat. I noticed there's no packing nuts on those.


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## HSI (Jun 3, 2011)

PunkRockPlumber said:


> Ok. So What if there is a drip on a 1/4 turn stop? Comp or sweat. I noticed there's no packing nuts on those.


I have never had a issue with one dripping. If it does happen I would simply install another one in its place.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

HSI said:


> I have never had a issue with one dripping. If it does happen I would simply install another one in its place.


I've had issues with the cheaply made Proflo house brand sold at Fergusons.

I've even had issues with brand new ones not completely shutting off.


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## PunkRockPlumber (Mar 26, 2012)

Widdershins said:


> I've had issues with the cheaply made Proflo house brand sold at Fergusons.
> 
> I've even had issues with brand new ones not completely shutting off.


Yeah I have that issue with one now. Maybe I burned the rubber out whilst soldering. I'll just throw a cap on it until I'm ready to hook up the sink. Lol.


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## patrick88 (Oct 14, 2008)

I have seen very few drips. I have seen a few with packing nuts. I believe it was cheap ones though. Lol. Out if the box drips.


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

Ive never seen any quarter turn stops leak from the packing yet but im sure that day will come. I would just put a new valve on and call it a day. I have seen many conventional stops leak from the packing even had the handle and shaft break off in my hand.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

theplumbinator said:


> Ive never seen any quarter turn stops leak from the packing yet but im sure that day will come. I would just put a new valve on and call it a day. I have seen many conventional stops leak from the packing even had the handle and shaft break off in my hand.


That because those stem and packing were never silcone greased when installed!


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

I agree some hacks are too lazy to take a valve apart to put some heatproof grease on the worm gear. Makes me want to grab guys that only rough in houses and bring them on a few service calls. Thats how I learned to grease stems and valves when they were new.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

theplumbinator said:


> I agree some hacks are too lazy to take a valve apart to put some heatproof grease on the worm gear. Makes me want to grab guys that only rough in houses and bring them on a few service calls. Thats how I learned to grease stems and valves when they were new.


I learned from the 1st day on the job back in '79..


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

Lol in 79 I was 2.


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## AlbacoreShuffle (Aug 28, 2011)

theplumbinator said:


> Lol in 79 I was 2.


I joined the USMC in 1979. 
Your still a pup. :laughing:


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

rjbphd said:


> I learned from the 1st day on the job back in '79..


I was playing in Al Hirt's band on Bourbon Street. Ah, those were the days. Too young to know I was in over my head.


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## HSI (Jun 3, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> I've had issues with the cheaply made Proflo house brand sold at Fergusons.
> 
> I've even had issues with brand new ones not completely shutting off.


I have been using the WB heavy duty stops for quite a while without an issue. They are nice heavy brass with a longer than normal shank allowing a bit more room to tighten after pulling the old nut and ferrel.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

AlbacoreShuffle said:


> I joined the USMC in 1979.
> Your still a pup. :laughing:


I was mustering out just a few years before then and going on Active Reserve, Whippersnapper.:laughing:


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## AlbacoreShuffle (Aug 28, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> I was mustering out just a few years before then and going on Active Reserve, Whippersnapper.:laughing:


Wow you really are Old !

Speaking of active reserve, I did two years at Treasure Island in the middle of the San Francisco Bay.

Way to close to the strip clubs in San Francisco. :yes:


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## skitian (Apr 5, 2011)

Around here, for a long stint, new res plumbers were putting in those 1/4 turn stops with clear plastics handles and o-rings for packings with no nut to tighten it. I can't remember the brand. Those o-rings went bad and dripped like clock work. I've gone through a lot of houses and replaced every single angle stop. Of course in trac housing, they want fast, cheap, and easy. It's called job security for service plumbers.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

I use Brasscraft 1/4 turn compression stops, without any issues. I've used compression stops for a very long time without issues.

There are some off brands that will give you trouble, but that is the case in most instances when you go cheap.

Don't go cheap!


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

skitian said:


> Around here, for a long stint, new res plumbers were putting in those 1/4 turn stops with clear plastics handles and o-rings for packings with no nut to tighten it. I can't remember the brand. Those o-rings went bad and dripped like clock work. I've gone through a lot of houses and replaced every single angle stop. Of course in trac housing, they want fast, cheap, and easy. It's called job security for service plumbers.


Ton of them around here. I buy them in case lots and ship them prepaid to all the new construction shops in town. Just my little contribution to help them get by in these tough economic times.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

theplumbinator said:


> Sweat stops are for old men. Compression is where its at. They are code in my state thats all ive installed the past 12 years. Except a few times the supply house ran out of compression. Pain in the but have to bring in torch on a finish or service call when I only need channel locks and my trusty Ridgid one stop wrench. Time is money.


 








Next time you have a Brasscraft sweat stop side by side with a Brasscraft compression stop, take a look at the stems and then tell me what you notice. If you look closely in this picture of a sweat stop, you may see it.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Brasscraft makes compression stops with plastic AND brass stems. Like I said earlier...Don't go cheap!


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Brasscraft makes compression stops with plastic AND brass stems. Like I said earlier...Don't go cheap!


 






Alrighty sir, I stand corrected. Wasn't aware they made compression with brass stems. Thanks for the correction.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

They even make 1/4 turn in either brass or plastic...Don't go cheap!

LOL


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

Titan Plumbing said:


> They even make 1/4 turn in either brass or plastic...Don't go cheap!
> 
> LOL


Then install Dornbracht stops, they have ceramic valving, and a bargain at 30 bucks a piece in polished chrome.


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Brasscraft makes compression stops with plastic AND brass stems. Like I said earlier...Don't go cheap!


They make them all both ways. I think they call it a "celcon"'stem. 

Fancy word for plastic, I guess.


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## SHAUN C (Feb 16, 2011)

The other day I went to a job a coworker did. He put compression stops on the copper x pex adapter. I thought it was a hackjob, anyone else do this?


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Killertoiletspider said:


> Then install Dornbracht stops, they have ceramic valving, and a bargain at 30 bucks a piece in polished chrome.


Ah, your proclivity to be an around smart mouth has found it's way out of the political threads.


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## 89plumbum (May 14, 2011)

Tommy plumber said:


> Next time you have a Brasscraft sweat stop side by side with a Brasscraft compression stop, take a look at the stems and then tell me what you notice. If you look closely in this picture of a sweat stop, you may see it.



What is that contraption?


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

89plumbum said:


> What is that contraption?


 






It's a special adapter you need to mount to the floor for certain Toto W/C's. Beware.....:laughing:


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Tommy plumber said:


> It's a special adapter you need to mount to the floor for certain Toto W/C's. Beware.....:laughing:


Those are my favorite WC's to install.:thumbsup:


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

Widdershins said:


> Those are my favorite WC's to install.:thumbsup:


The only thing I don't like is having to haul in my TE-16 for the trim out.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Widdershins said:


> Those are my favorite WC's to install.:thumbsup:


 






Ugh. You can have them. I'll take the easy peasy installs any day over the, in my opinion, over-engineered Totos. Not talking about the 3" trapways or larger flush valves, mind you, but I don't need the 'contraption' at the bottom of the porcelain goddess........:laughing:


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Hey, hey.. we were talking about comp stops and now its becoming a shotter talk...


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Killertoiletspider said:


> The only thing I don't like is having to haul in my TE-16 for the trim out.


I've installed a lot of them. I have a cordless roto-hammer I bought specifically for this type of WC.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

rjbphd said:


> Hey, hey.. we were talking about comp stops and now its becoming a shotter talk...


 






Oops. Did I de-rail this thread? fftopic: Sorry fellers.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Tommy plumber said:


> Ugh. You can have them. I'll take the easy peasy installs any day over the, in my opinion, over-engineered Totos. Not talking about the 3" trapways or larger flush valves, mind you, but I don't need the 'contraption' at the bottom of the porcelain goddess........:laughing:


I'm T&M on everything I do.

It costs what it costs to install 'em.:thumbup:


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

I don't buy the plastic stems in compression only the brass. But usually quarter turn best quality they make. If you saw the type of houses I work in you would understand, they don't want to know how much just when can it be done. So I just always use the best. Was that my favorite toilet flange adaptor in that pic next to the sweat stop? I've always said when I die I want my ashes flushed down a TOTO.


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

I could see maybe sweating a pex x male adapter into a sweat stop. But they make pex stops. Or using a pex copper stubout with a compression stop, but if that guy is using a pex by male and sticking it into a compression stop he is a hack and lazy,just go get the correct valve for the job. I hate when guys use a straight stop where an angle should be and vise versa.


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## jc-htownplumber (Feb 29, 2012)

rjbphd said:


> I learned from the 1st day on the job back in '79..


79 I was well I wasn't even swimming I'm 24


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## jc-htownplumber (Feb 29, 2012)

Tommy plumber said:


> It's a special adapter you need to mount to the floor for certain Toto W/C's. Beware.....:laughing:


I think these are the best 1.28 toilets but those one piece toilets are heavy as hell


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## bighutch (Feb 14, 2012)

*compression stops*

have used a ton of them. a little pipedope and tighten good . NO PROBLEMS!!!!!
:yes:


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

bighutch said:


> have used a ton of them. a little pipedope and tighten good . NO PROBLEMS!!!!!
> :yes:


You're not suppose to pipe dope the threads.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> You're not suppose to pipe dope the threads.


I never dope the feral but I might put a little dope on the 1/2in threads to make it easier to get the comp nut off in the future.

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Mississippiplum said:


> I never dope the feral but I might put a little dope on the 1/2in threads to make it easier to get the comp nut off in the future.


I do that from time to time myself -- I generally use a silicone based plumbers grease or Magic-Lube on compression threads, but occasionally I'll use a very tiny bit of Laco Slictite on the beginning of the threads as a lubricant.

Anyway, pipe dope is not nearly as bad as PTFE tape -- That's just asking for trouble.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> Anyway, pipe dope is not nearly as bad as PTFE tape -- That's just asking for trouble.


Especially when its wrapped around the feral

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

I use a little dope on the ferule.. but use a lot of dope on feral cats


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## HSI (Jun 3, 2011)

I always use dope on the threads and inside the shank. This helps the feral seat a bit tighter. Never had this fail me.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

I smelled gas at my pastor's apartment and started spraying Mega-bubble. I found a leak at the gas whip flare by pipe union. A well meaning but idiotic former parishioner had installed the new dryer. He must have heard plumbers talking about tape and dope. Well, this dope wrapped electrical tape around the male flare!


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

422 plumber said:


> I smelled gas at my pastor's apartment and started spraying Mega-bubble. I found a leak at the gas whip flare by pipe union. A well meaning but idiotic former parishioner had installed the new dryer. He must have heard plumbers talking about tape and dope. Well, this dope wrapped electrical tape around the male flare!


What were you doing in your pastor apartment in the first place ...LOL


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

OldSchool said:


> What were you doing in your pastor apartment in the first place ...LOL


 Fooking laughing outloud!!


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## user8031 (Dec 14, 2011)

PunkRockPlumber said:


> Do you guys use them? Are they reliable? Has anyone had any issues with them? I've only used the sweat type and was just looking for some opinions.


You're a professional plumber and you don't know _anything_ about a compression stop?


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

He didn't say that he didn't know anything about them...just that he didn't use them and was looking for opinions from members that do use them.


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## user8031 (Dec 14, 2011)

plbgbiz said:


> He didn't say that he didn't know anything about them...just that he didn't use them and was looking for opinions from members that do use them.


He said he has _only_ used sweat style. He is asking if anyone has any problems with them. He is looking for opinions. Sounds like he doesnt know anything about them to me.

Didn't think I would hear a professional plumber ask those questions......about an angle stop.


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

wyefortyfive said:


> He said he has _only_ used sweat style. He is asking if anyone has any problems with them. He is looking for opinions. Sounds like he doesnt know anything about them to me.
> 
> Didn't think I would hear a professional plumber ask those questions......about an angle stop.


Beg to differ. I would think a REAL professional plumber would only know about sweat stops, not compression stops. See, a professional plumber would not be using a valve designed for a homeowner, or to make it easy.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

wyefortyfive said:


> He said he has only used sweat style. He is asking if anyone has any problems with them. He is looking for opinions. Sounds like he doesnt know anything about them to me.
> 
> Didn't think I would hear a professional plumber ask those questions......about an angle stop.


I understand why you might think that Y45, but not all Professional Plumbers are familiar with what you or I consider common place. 

For instance, let's say a person comes up in the trade doing huge industrial new construction projects. He might look at a 1950's residential water heater upgrade to current codes with complete bewilderment. Our trade has many trades within it that are sometimes quite different from each other.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

OldSchool said:


> What were you doing in your pastor apartment in the first place ...LOL


 Old School, that is really an ignorant comment. I usually get a kick out of your posts. I don't mind being ripped on, but ripping on my pastor is quite a different matter. He is one of the best people I know. He lives out his faith, lives humbly on a small salary and is truly concerned about the welfare of others. You should be ashamed of yourself. 
Even though it's none of your business what I was doing there, I was visiting because I happened to be in the neighborhood. I consider him my spiritual mentor, because he took it upon himself to disciple me when I was a new believer. We were sitting at his kitchen table drinking coffee and I could smell gas. I then discovered the cause, as noted in my OP.


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

422 plumber said:


> Old School, that is really an ignorant comment. I usually get a kick out of your posts. I don't mind being ripped on, but ripping on my pastor is quite a different matter. He is one of the best people I know. He lives out his faith, lives humbly on a small salary and is truly concerned about the welfare of others. You should be ashamed of yourself.
> Even though it's none of your business what I was doing there, I was visiting because I happened to be in the neighborhood. I consider him my spiritual mentor, because he took it upon himself to disciple me when I was a new believer. We were sitting at his kitchen table drinking coffee and I could smell gas. I then discovered the cause, as noted in my OP.


Com on... Don't take it to serious...


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## PunkRockPlumber (Mar 26, 2012)

wyefortyfive said:


> You're a professional plumber and you don't know anything about a compression stop?


Lol! Feel better now?


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## PunkRockPlumber (Mar 26, 2012)

wyefortyfive said:


> He said he has only used sweat style. He is asking if anyone has any problems with them. He is looking for opinions. Sounds like he doesnt know anything about them to me.
> 
> Didn't think I would hear a professional plumber ask those questions......about an angle stop.


Not all professional pitchers know how to throw a knuckleball. What's your point?


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## user8031 (Dec 14, 2011)

I stick with what I said. You folks can say what you want.


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## user8031 (Dec 14, 2011)

RealLivePlumber said:


> Beg to differ. I would think a REAL professional plumber would only know about sweat stops, not compression stops. See, a professional plumber would not be using a valve designed for a homeowner, or to make it easy.


A professional plumber should know about ALL stops. Period.


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## PunkRockPlumber (Mar 26, 2012)

wyefortyfive said:


> A professional plumber should know about ALL stops. Period.


I just asked a question. Your opinion about what I should know means shyte to me. Especially with your holier than thou demeanor. But thanks for the entertainment.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

wyefortyfive said:


> A professional plumber should know about ALL stops. Period.


Really?

Tell me what you know about sweat stops sold in California, Maryland, Vermont and Louisiana today and the rest of the country by Jan 4 2014.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

OldSchool said:


> Com on... Don't take it to serious...


I don't take myself seriously, but I don't take kindly to anyone slandering my pastor. Consider it over.


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

422 plumber said:


> I don't take myself seriously, but I don't take kindly to anyone slandering my pastor.


Your getting your panties up in a bunch like hes been previously accused of something and I just happen to bring it up.... Even tough I didn't know...


Relax .... Take a breather.... As long as he's been a good boy nothing for you to get up tight about...


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Old School, he said it was his Pastor, not a Priest...


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Old School, he said it was his Pastor, not a Priest...


Priest.. Pastor ... Boy Scout troop leader... Teacher or even a hockey coach ... There is one in every bunch...

I wonder what the % is ... Scary if you really think about it...


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

OldSchool said:


> Your getting your panties up in a bunch like hes been previously accused of something and I just happen to bring it up.... Even tough I didn't know...
> 
> 
> Relax .... Take a breather.... As long as he's been a good boy nothing for you to get up tight about...


I just posted a conciliatory reply, and you posted back a snide comment. You are the one who picked out a sentence in a post and basically accused me of being unfaithful to my wife, with my pastor, no less. That's a pretty ugly thing to do. Then you have the gall to tell me not to get my panties in a bunch, then a back handed slap accusing him of sexual immorality. Quite disgusting behavior.


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

422 plumber said:


> I just posted a conciliatory reply, and you posted back a snide comment. You are the one who picked out a sentence in a post and basically accused me of being unfaithful to my wife, with my pastor, no less. That's a pretty ugly thing to do. Then you have the gall to tell me not to get my panties in a bunch, then a back handed slap accusing him of sexual immorality. Quite disgusting behavior.


I didn't accuse him of anything...

You flew off the handle like he was or is accused of something...

Then now you say I am accusing you of cheating on your wife with your pastor...LMAO

Whats next????


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

OldSchool said:


> Priest.. Pastor ... Boy Scout troop leader... Teacher or even a hockey coach ... There is one in every bunch...
> 
> I wonder what the % is ... Scary if you really think about it...


See 422, OS must of had an experience with all the above and that is why he's wondering...

I took your post 422 to mean what YOU said, I did not read anything into it.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

Old School, what did you mean to imply then in your first post?


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

422 plumber said:


> Old School, what did you mean to imply then in your first post?


I do think he was only joking...in a funny Canadian way that is...


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## user8031 (Dec 14, 2011)

PunkRockPlumber said:


> I just asked a question. Your opinion about what I should know means shyte to me. Especially with your holier than thou demeanor. But thanks for the entertainment.


Too bad you do not like what I said. I stand by my comment. You asked a question that I'd expect to see in a DIY forum. I do not care one bit what anyone else in this forum thinks either. If you want to get upset, by all means....you go ahead.


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## user8031 (Dec 14, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> Really?
> 
> Tell me what you know about sweat stops sold in California, Maryland, Vermont and Louisiana today and the rest of the country by Jan 4 2014.


Will do.


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## PunkRockPlumber (Mar 26, 2012)

wyefortyfive said:


> Too bad you do not like what I said. I stand by my comment. You asked a question that I'd expect to see in a DIY forum. I do not care one bit what anyone else in this forum thinks either. If you want to get upset, by all means....you go ahead.


I'm not upset at all. You're comment shows your poor character.


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

Widdershins said:


> Really?
> 
> Tell me what you know about sweat stops sold in California, Maryland, Vermont and Louisiana today and the rest of the country by Jan 4 2014.


Im going to guess on this one but I would say they either have to come with a warning on the package that says "these stop valves contain some trace amounts of lead known to the state of California to be harmful to humans" or they cannot contain any trace amount of lead. Am i close?


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

PunkRockPlumber said:


> Do you guys use them? Are they reliable? Has anyone had any issues with them? I've only used the sweat type and was just looking for some opinions.


I can count the number of compression stops I see here in a year on one hand... 

I think that handyman types that don't know how to sweat pipe use them...

If they need replacing I'll upgrade them to a sweat 1/4 turn....


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Redwood said:


> I can count the number of compression stops I see here in a year on one hand...
> 
> *I think that handyman types that don't know how to sweat pipe use them...*
> 
> If they need replacing I'll upgrade them to a sweat 1/4 turn....


Now, that's a downright ignorant statement...


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Now, that's a downright ignorant statement...


Nah it is what it is...

In these parts compression fittings and CPVC are reserved for the use of handy hacks....

That's all that use em....


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

I guess if I worked out in hicksVille USA on trailers shacks and hoveles it wouldn't matter if a one second slip of the torch made a small burn mark inside a cabinet. But i usually am in a million dollar Plus house working In kitchens and bathrooms that cost as much as the average Americans yearly salery. My customers done have any sense of humor about a black burn spot that can very quickly and easily happen to anyone even the most experienced torch weilder. I'll stick to my compression stops thanks. Never had one leak yet. Use good material and installed properly they last just as long as one that is sweat on.


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## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

We are bashing plumbers for installing comp angle valves, but putting in pex with a hose clamp is ok? Or CPVC? 

So what do ya all do with the fancy satin nickel, or oil rub bronze, shut offs, for water closets, or fancy pedestal, or wall hung lavs? I personally install a comp valve with chrome sleeve, to cover the copper, on water closets. I think that looks prof. Not saying anything is wrong with a soldered valve, just never had an issue with comp.


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## herbie21 (Sep 9, 2010)

:thumbup:Compression angle stops are the way to go if you apply some pipe dope. This lubricates the threads, and gives you better compression. I have installed thousands with no problems. If you do a lot of track work, this is the way to go. 


PunkRockPlumber said:


> Do you guys use them? Are they reliable? Has anyone had any issues with them? I've only used the sweat type and was just looking for some opinions.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

theplumbinator said:


> Im going to guess on this one but I would say they either have to come with a warning on the package that says "these stop valves contain some trace amounts of lead known to the state of California to be harmful to humans" or they cannot contain any trace amount of lead. Am i close?


Nope, that's not where I was going with this.

Thanks for playing, though.


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## cbeck (Mar 7, 2012)

UH OH Herbie :no:


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

theplumbinator said:


> I guess if I worked out in hicksVille USA on trailers shacks and hoveles it wouldn't matter if a one second slip of the torch made a small burn mark inside a cabinet. But i usually am in a million dollar Plus house working In kitchens and bathrooms that cost as much as the average Americans yearly salery. My customers done have any sense of humor about a black burn spot that can very quickly and easily happen to anyone even the most experienced torch weilder. I'll stick to my compression stops thanks. Never had one leak yet. Use good material and installed properly they last just as long as one that is sweat on.


Yea here in Hicksville Connecticut we are known for our trailers, shacks, and hovels... :laughing:


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

theplumbinator said:


> I guess if I worked out in hicksVille USA on trailers shacks and hoveles it wouldn't matter if a one second slip of the torch made a small burn mark inside a cabinet. But i usually am in a million dollar Plus house working In kitchens and bathrooms that cost as much as the average Americans yearly salery. My customers done have any sense of humor about a black burn spot that can very quickly and easily happen to anyone even the most experienced torch weilder. I'll stick to my compression stops thanks. Never had one leak yet. Use good material and installed properly they last just as long as one that is sweat on.



If you've worked on as many "million dollar Plus" homes as you say you have, then you know you are sometimes obliged to install items spec'd or purchased by the Architect, Designer or HO.

Any and all burn marks can be avoided if you take the time to properly protect finished surfaces.


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

herbie21 said:


> :thumbup:Compression angle stops are the way to go if you apply some pipe dope. This lubricates the threads, and gives you better compression. I have installed thousands with no problems. If you do a lot of track work, this is the way to go.


Herbie you better introduce yourself in the intro thread to everyone before you jump into a conversation even if I do agree with your opinion we done know who you are yet.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

herbie21 said:


> :thumbup:Compression angle stops are the way to go if you apply some pipe dope. This lubricates the threads, and gives you better compression. I have installed thousands with no problems. If you do a lot of track work, this is the way to go.


Exactly how does the application of pipe dope offer better compression?

If it's a question of lubrication, then just hawk up a lung oyster or spit on the damned thing.

Trade Secret: I spit on tub/shower trims that require you slide a machined escutcheon over a machined sleeve. My lung oysters and saliva can be very slippery.


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

I done use dope, heat proof grease is better. Im not always on the job to babysit my guys on a finish. I just don't take the unnecessary chance of damage. If a job has a sweat stop specked i would use it, but ive never had a set of plans handed to me that said sweat stops were required. Nor have I ever had a homeowner hand them to me and insist I use them. I have had people give me polished brass, satin Nickel, and oil rubbed bronze stops before but guess what they were all compression. Wonder why? And I agree CT has some beautiful homes I lived in New England 4 years while I was in college. I know the kind of houses people live in there.


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## user8031 (Dec 14, 2011)

PunkRockPlumber said:


> I'm not upset at all. You're comment shows your poor character.


Well, you show your basic plumbing skills and knowledge are LIMITED at best.

We can go back and forth all you want about this. You asked a DIY'er question. 

I do not give one iota what_ anyone _on here thinks about what I said either. You can read this thread and nod your head in agreement OR you can disagree. Fine by me. But, I tell you this much...if you walked into our shop and asked any of us the question you posted, while proclaiming you're a licensed plumber, you would have been told you should snip your license up into confetti.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

I like my crimp stops , HO arnt gonna fool with them when they go

I dont leave room to replace


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## PunkRockPlumber (Mar 26, 2012)

wyefortyfive said:


> Well, you show your basic plumbing skills and knowledge are LIMITED at best.
> 
> We can go back and forth all you want about this. You asked a DIY'er question.
> 
> I do not give one iota what anyone on here thinks about what I said either. You can read this thread and nod your head in agreement OR you can disagree. Fine by me. But, I tell you this much...if you walked into our shop and asked any of us the question you posted, while proclaiming you're a licensed plumber, you would have been told you should snip your license up into confetti.


I haven't experienced every aspect of plumbing like I am sure you have. But I do know enough to have my master plumbers license and to be the owner if my own plumbing company which provides for me and family very well. That is what matters to me. I don't participate in these threads to say that I am a better plumber than anyone else. And I sure as hell don't knock anyone for not knowing as much as I do about plumbing. If my questioned seemed like a DIY question to you then so be it. Im not impressed.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

wyefortyfive said:


> Well, you show your basic plumbing skills and knowledge are LIMITED at best.
> 
> We can go back and forth all you want about this. You asked a DIY'er question.
> 
> I do not give one iota what_ anyone _on here thinks about what I said either. You can read this thread and nod your head in agreement OR you can disagree. Fine by me. But, I tell you this much...if you walked into our shop and asked any of us the question you posted, while proclaiming you're a licensed plumber, you would have been told you should snip your license up into confetti.


So much love for your Brothers slogging away in the same trenches. How do you do it?

Has it ever occurred to you that Plumbing Practices can be both regional and environmental?

Have you ever pondered the reasoning behind the differences behind the various Plumbing Codes in force throughout the contiguous United States?

I have. Most of the differences make sense when you factor in the environmental differences.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

PunkRockPlumber said:


> I haven't experienced every aspect of plumbing like I am sure you have. But I do know enough to have my master plumbers license and to be the owner if my own plumbing company which provides for me and family very well. That is what matters to me. I don't participate in these threads to say that I am a better plumber than anyone else. And I sure as hell don't knock anyone for not knowing as much as I do about plumbing. If my questioned seemed like a DIY question to you then so be it. Im not impressed.


Just let him and *IT* go. He isn't worth the bother.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

i need some of those chrome sleeves that go around the crimp ring and the pipe for toilets.


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

wyefortyfive said:


> Well, you show your basic plumbing skills and knowledge are LIMITED at best.
> 
> We can go back and forth all you want about this. You asked a DIY'er question.
> 
> I do not give one iota what anyone on here thinks about what I said either. You can read this thread and nod your head in agreement OR you can disagree. Fine by me. But, I tell you this much...if you walked into our shop and asked any of us the question you posted, while proclaiming you're a licensed plumber, you would have been told you should snip your license up into confetti.


All this coming from a guy that is fairly new to the trade...

Go figure....


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

wyefortyfive said:


> Will do.


Did I miss something?


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Widdershins said:


> *Exactly how does the application of pipe dope offer better compression?*
> 
> If it's a question of lubrication, then just hawk up a lung oyster or spit on the damned thing.
> 
> Trade Secret: I spit on tub/shower trims that require you slide a machined escutcheon over a machined sleeve. My lung oysters and saliva can be very slippery.


Just wanted to be part of the crowd and say something before this thread gets closed for hurt feelings. How do some of you guys handle being on a jobsite? Yeesh, let it roll.

Widder...I use the dope on the threads, never the ferrule. The dope keeps the threads from locking up, you can get it way tighter then without the dope.

Incidentially, I butt the stop right up to the escucheon plate.


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## 89plumbum (May 14, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> Did I miss something?



A bit facetious? Not you, the other guy.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

I install the brasscraft 1/4 turns only if I find myself out of the worm gear valves. I've had more 1/4 turn handles break off with a slight twist and water comes flowing, not always but enough. After a year or 2 around here they are locked up, guaranteed. At least with the worm gears I can twist back and forth and get it to close more times than not. I use more compression than anything mainly because,,,,, well just because.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

*Angle valve update*

Funny how things work. Today I went on a referral call from a cabinet/appliance shop to a home that had a leaking 1/4 turn Brass Craft angle valve. This guy was the stores appliance repairman and he found the angle valve leaking. Upon attempting to turn it off the handle snapped off and commenced to leak. I showed up a little later and with fingers attempted to turn off adjacent valves only to find one turned but only after a hard tug, the next snapped off and I had to send helper running to meter while I held my thumb pressed into the end of the valve.. This is a 2 mill house easy with apprx 40 angle valves. They want me to change them all out. This house is 7 years old. Thinking of going with the WB Max worm gear valves which has the stuffing box. My thought is they shoud be able to withstand a decent tug even with channel locks in the future. Any body know of a better choice?


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Epox said:


> Funny how things work. Today I went on a referral call from a cabinet/appliance shop to a home that had a leaking 1/4 turn Brass Craft angle valve. This guy was the stores appliance repairman and he found the angle valve leaking. Upon attempting to turn it off the handle snapped off and commenced to leak. I showed up a little later and with fingers attempted to turn off adjacent valves only to find one turned but only after a hard tug, the next snapped off and I had to send helper running to meter while I held my thumb pressed into the end of the valve.. This is a 2 mill house easy with apprx 40 angle valves. They want me to change them all out. This house is 7 years old. Thinking of going with the WB Max worm gear valves which has the stuffing box. My thought is they shoud be able to withstand a decent tug even with channel locks in the future. Any body know of a better choice?


 






Those Woverine Brass sweat stops with that stuffing box were not my favorite valve of choice because of that extra packing nut and the stuffing box.....:laughing: But it is a well-made product. I wouldn't hesitate to use WB stops in a house......:thumbsup:


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

Epox said:


> Thinking of going with the WB Max worm gear valves which has the stuffing box. My thought is they shoud be able to withstand a decent tug even with channel locks in the future. Any body know of a better choice?


Dornbracht makes a ceramic valved angle valve, but they are only available in IPS and they cost around forty bucks a piece.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

Yeah at 40 bucks ea. my cost I doubt they would let me install 40 of them.


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

Wolverine Brass makes a good valve in my opinion, I even order my sweat and ips ball valves from them with my company name and phone number printed on the handle. I normaly use their stop valves also but mostly their quarter turns. I know brasscraft quarter turn stops from home depot or lowes have plastic shafts although they look the same as the ones the supply house sells they are not made the same. Supply house brasscraft quarter turn valves have metal shaft ive never had one break on me yet and the water around here is so hard you can almost walk on it.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

The Brass Crafts break off here in a heart beat and they have (small) brass stems and 2 O rings. Guess how I know this.


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## Mega plumbing (Dec 20, 2011)

Compression all the way! I use a ferrule puller to remove old ones, but who uses channel locks? That just scratches the finish, use crescent wrenches or ridged has a tool for that.


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## tungsten plumb (Apr 15, 2010)

Never seen a sweat angle stop here. But to each his own. I think they would be a waste of time IMO.


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## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

Mega plumbing said:


> Compression all the way! I use a ferrule puller to remove old ones, but who uses channel locks? That just scratches the finish, use crescent wrenches or ridged has a tool for that.[/QUOTE]
> What kind of tool you talking about?


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## Mega plumbing (Dec 20, 2011)

I don't see an option to send a pic or I would, it's called a one-stop plumbers wrench for 20$ at home depot. I still use crescent wrench . Works just as good


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## tungsten plumb (Apr 15, 2010)

Mega plumbing said:


> I don't see an option to send a pic or I would, it's called a one-stop plumbers wrench for 20$ at home depot. I still use crescent wrench . Works just as good


I have the one stop wrench. It works great I use it all the time. I like it because I don't have to adjust them for the perfect fit.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Mega plumbing said:


> I don't see an option to send a pic or I would, it's called a one-stop plumbers wrench for 20$ at home depot. I still use crescent wrench . Works just as good


...


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## Mega plumbing (Dec 20, 2011)

I'd send a pic but can't find that option. Rigid makes a wrench for 20$ it's called plumbers wrench for bathroom valves, but I still use crescent


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## Mega plumbing (Dec 20, 2011)

There we go. It's all about the right tools for the job


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## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

plbgbiz said:


> ...


 How many hands you think I goy? I can only use 2 of those. :laughing:


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## dankman (Nov 19, 2009)

JAraiza said:


> What methods are you guys using to remove stubborn ferrules?


I use a cheese saw to cut most of the way through the ferrule and a thin flat head screwdriver to split the ferrule; if you do it correctly you can put the stop in the same exact place. If the tubing is a bit smushed just tighten your nut a bit tighter than you normally would.


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## user8031 (Dec 14, 2011)

plbgbiz said:


> ...


Ok tool I suppose. I have it, but it is worthless if you have to install straight stops.


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