# Well water prssure?



## NYC Plumber (May 4, 2011)

Anyone know how to increase pressure for well water?
Most water by me is city water so I don't seem this often.
I have a friend upstate that I need to help and I'm stumped.
I opened some box and tightened to 2 nuts on a switch down, it made the pump kick on, but pressure went back down...
Anyone good with this stuff?


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Well one screw is the pressure and the other is the differential...

Generally you change out the switch, they come 20-40, 30-50, 40-60....
The tank pressure should be 2 psi under the cut in pressure....

But....

Can the pump deliver the higher pressure or, will it just deadhead trying to reach a high enough pressure to shut off....

Thats the crash course....
Screw it up and it gets expensive....


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

If it has a booster pump there will be a switch. It is usually has a grey plastic cover with an acorn nut holding it on. If you pull it off, you'll see this.


If you turn the big nut down (clockwise) you can raise the cut in and cut out pressures. They usually have a 20 psi differential and the underside of the cover should say what the stock settings are. Most are 30/50 or 40/60. If you turn the small nut in, it'll just raise the cut out. Be careful of raising it too high, the pump will run forever and not turn off.













Paul


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

Damn, spent too much time on Google looking for demonstration pictures and was beaten to the punch.






Paul


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

rocksteady said:


> Damn, spent too much time on Google looking for demonstration pictures and was beaten to the punch.
> 
> Paul


Thanks for supplying pictures for my post Paul... :laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## ToUtahNow (Jul 19, 2008)

NYC Plumber said:


> Anyone know how to increase pressure for well water?
> Most water by me is city water so I don't seem this often.
> I have a friend upstate that I need to help and I'm stumped.
> I opened some box and tightened to 2 nuts on a switch down, it made the pump kick on, but pressure went back down...
> Anyone good with this stuff?


Make sure it really is a pressure problem and not a volume problem. Has the system ever worked properly? What type of motor/pump is it? Is there a screen that could be suffering from incrustation?

Mark


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## NYC Plumber (May 4, 2011)

Thanks for the help guys.
My luck I will burn the pump out lol.


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## NYC Plumber (May 4, 2011)

ToUtahNow said:


> Make sure it really is a pressure problem and not a volume problem. Has the system every worked properly? What type of motor/pump is it? Is there a screen that could be suffering from incrustation?
> 
> Mark


Hmm good point, I don't think it has ever worked properly. I will look into that tomorrow.

Thanks!


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Seriously it can be quite a few different things...

You can't go wrong with a well pump guru on site if you aren't into them...

What kind of equipment is installed?


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

NYC Plumber said:


> Hmm good point, I don't think it has ever worked properly. I will look into that tomorrow.
> 
> Thanks!


 
If it wasn't designed correctly from the get-go, it'll never really work. I went to a customer's house a few months ago that had no water pressure/volume at her upstairs showers. The house was remodeled about a year ago. The contractor put in double rain head showers and added a bathroom but didn't do anything regarding the pump and pressure tanks. The house still had a 3/4 hp pump and an old tank. She had 30 psi when it got to the cut-in pressure at the pump, less than half that at the second floor shower. I had to install a larger pump and a new tank to get her some pressure and increase the volume. Now she's got a bit over 45 psi at cut in but the gpm has also gone up by about 50%. 







Paul


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## shakeyglenn68 (Dec 29, 2010)

Check the pressure tank and make certain no leaks.. Is the jet or foot valve obstructed? (foot valve is located on the bottom of the pump- suction) give pump a shake if possible to see if it changes the pressure if that helps pull pump and clear foot valve. Check air volume control, test by removing the air-volume control and plugging the hole where it was removed. If that solves the problem the control is bad. check impeller hub or guide vane bore, clearance should be .012 on a side or .025 diametrically. make certain pump is the right type, shallow pump in a deep well. if its a shallow well system check suction lift, use a vacuum gauge it should not exceed 22 inches at sea level. Hope that helps you.


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## gitnerdun (Nov 5, 2008)

I think you should also look for a filter or softner that could be clogged. Did you post what pressure you are getting up to? Is the whole house affected?

Bob


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## roving plumber (Apr 25, 2011)

As mentioned you should check the bladder pressure in the pressure tank, I believe this needs to be done when the tank is drained ...maybe someone on here could confirm that?


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

roving plumber said:


> As mentioned you should check the bladder pressure in the pressure tank, I believe this needs to be done when the tank is drained ...maybe someone on here could confirm that?


Yes, 2-4 psi below cut in when the tank is empty.






Paul


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## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

Since you have adjusted both the differential and pressure setting I would suggest a new pressure switch and start over especially if it has some age. 

I need more information, what is your friend experiencing? Why do you want more pressure? With a shallow well or deep well pump the higher you raise the pressure the less volume you will receive. Have you cleaned or replace aerators on faucets and cleared the inlet to shower heads to make sure that it is not a clogged there? The majority of homes I visit that have a well have debris in the aerators and shower heads prohibiting flow.


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

I always use 20/40 for a jet pump and a 30/50 for a submersible. Never had any complaints yet.


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## NYC Plumber (May 4, 2011)

Ok the pressure is def better now, but how do I lower the cut in pressure?
It's cycling too much right now.


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## NYC Plumber (May 4, 2011)

I should of added cut out pressure is good.


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

read the directions on the sticker inside the lid..........

From distant memory, I think the shorter of the 2 studs is the adjustment of cut in ONLY.


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

ILPlumber said:


> read the directions on the sticker inside the lid..........
> 
> From distant memory, I think the shorter of the 2 studs is the adjustment of cut in ONLY.


 
*It's possible that there is no switch problem. Is the switch installed in a tank cross? If so it is probably a submersible pump. The switch should be installed on a 1/4" riser nipple 3 or 4 inches long. This nipple must be clear [clean], or the pressure switch will not sense a drop in pressure and will not send current to the pump motor. *


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

NYC Plumber said:


> Ok the pressure is def better now, but how do I lower the cut in pressure?
> It's cycling too much right now.


The smaller screw is the differential when you wrenched that down you tightened up the differential, usually it is 20 psi differential...

That could be your short cycling problem as well as a waterlogged tank...

Short cycling will kill a pump rather quickly...

More detail is needed to give better info as already stated...


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