# galvinized pipe



## Plasticman (Oct 14, 2008)

Got a homeowner that wants me to change out a delta single lever tub/shower valve. The piping is galvinized pipe. He is cleaning out the closet this weekend that backs up to the valve, so needless to say I have not verified this. Question, should I use dresser couplings on the old pipe or not, in your opinion, is that safe? Whats the chance they will blow out later? I am kinda uneasy about using them inside the house. ??? Responses?


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

cut the old valve out and unthread the old galv use a threaded adapter to tie onto the old galv and rock and roll


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## Plasticman (Oct 14, 2008)

Yea thats ok if there is a threaded joint to adapt to. What if there is no joint from the slab up to the 90 in the valve? won't be any room.


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## A Good Plumber (Jun 18, 2008)

Not legal here to bury a dresser coupling in an inaccessable location. 


Cut a thread or cut thru the fitting to save an existing thread


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

most likely there is a joint but if not your choices are limited. TM is testing sharkbites on galv today, be sure to read the post test results


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

Sometimes you just have to wait and see what's back there. Can't imagine there not being a thread in there though. Ball valves if there's room.


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## user823 (Feb 3, 2009)

Plasticman said:


> Got a homeowner that wants me to change out a delta single lever tub/shower valve. The piping is galvinized pipe. He is cleaning out the closet this weekend that backs up to the valve, so needless to say I have not verified this. Question, should I use dresser couplings on the old pipe or not, in your opinion, is that safe? Whats the chance they will blow out later? I am kinda uneasy about using them inside the house. ??? Responses?



First thing is I can't believe anyone is talking about using sharkbites on galvanized pipe! Is this for real or a joke?

Galvanized dresser couplings to install a tub shower valve?  No, you can't use them.



I don't see that many single handle tub shower valves piped in galvanized, it's rare around here. Mostly two handles, most single handles are piped with copper.

There has to be a galvanized 90 on each side for the hot and cold. Cut the valve out, cut right through the valve if you have to do so. Then unthread the parts off back to the 90's. Repipe using unions and close nipples or what have you, NOT dresser couplings.

If it was on the first floor I would definetely just repipe up from the basement (because we have basements here) with pex, maybe just a few feet of pipe on each side.


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## That One Guy (Sep 14, 2008)

If there are no unions or fittings to tie into I would cut the galvie straight as can be and make my own threads with a small hand threader, instal I.P. ball valves and run to the valve from there in copper. Dielectric unions. 

Ive done this before with no issues but the condition of the galvie is a huge factor when threading. I would also inform the H.O. of the alternative measures if the threading doesnt work. Dresslers inside the house scare me, I think they are best suited for irrigation when needed.


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## user823 (Feb 3, 2009)

That One Guy said:


> If there are no unions or fittings to tie into I would cut the galvie straight as can be and make my own threads with a small hand threader, instal I.P. ball valves and run to the valve from there in copper. Dielectric unions.
> 
> Ive done this before with no issues but the condition of the galvie is a huge factor when threading. I would also inform the H.O. of the alternative measures if the threading doesnt work. Dresslers inside the house scare me, I think they are best suited for irrigation when needed.


I've never threaded a piece of 1/2" existing galvanized inside a wall for a shower valve change out. Seems that would be a huge PITA!:laughing:


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## That One Guy (Sep 14, 2008)

ironranger said:


> I've never threaded a piece of 1/2" existing galvanized inside a wall for a shower valve change out. Seems that would be a huge PITA!:laughing:


It is lol, but thats what I had to do in that situation. There is galvanized everywhere up here.


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## Plasticman (Oct 14, 2008)

I changed out the water heater the day before and galv pipe fed it out of the slab so I doubt if the tub valve was piped with copper. I wish.


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

I've done it many times. What's so hard about it?



ironranger said:


> I've never threaded a piece of 1/2" existing galvanized inside a wall for a shower valve change out. Seems that would be a huge PITA!:laughing:


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## user823 (Feb 3, 2009)

Protech said:


> I've done it many times. What's so hard about it?


I didn't say it was hard, I said it was a PITA! Why would you even want to do it when there are better options? Cut the crap out and replace it. Why f'k with 50 year old garbage?


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## Christina (Jul 14, 2009)

*Have ran into galvanized coming through the slab...*

I have 'HAD TO' use a brass compression repair coupling to transition galvanized over to pex. The galvanized was used under the slab, which I understand is a big no-no, but I was not even alive to advise to doe-doe that put it in that he was messing up. I used a 6" repair coupling being that it will give it more support. Used a 6" brass nipple on the other side, tying on with a 1/2" pex adapter and running directly to the valve. I left a 12" x 12" access panel so that the piping could be checked and explained to the customer that the plumbing that was installed during the original construction was terribly WRONG! That was the reasoning for leaving the access panel. He can check it if 'the floor gets wet again'. We work for this customer quite regularly and have had no problems with it. The repair was done during summer of 2007. I would not advise to do it often but it is what had to be done to restore service to the customer as soon as possible without a complete repipe. The access panel was also left so that the compression repair coupling was not 'sealed' into a wall.


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## Bollinger plumber (Apr 3, 2009)

We had a mental health care facility that was riddled with electrolisis. The whole thing had to be repiped but they refused to let us shut the water off for long periods of time. So I suggested to the boss that we use the ford brass compression fittings on copper pipe as a temporary fix. I don't know exactly how many of them I used but it was a bunch. This was 10 yrs ago and to my knowledge they never did go back and repipe the building. The only thing I could find to cause the electrolisis was they had the copper pipe laying against the galvanized duct work. I used rubbertex insulation to separate the pipe from the duct work. This was all in a drop ceiling so it was all accessable. It wasn't meant to be a permanent fix but it looks like it is now.


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## rickmccarthy (Jul 20, 2009)

You said it was in a slab I would definately try to thread it with a disclaimer about the condition of the pipe and possible alternatives. Bring a chippping hammer!

when threading back up pipe through slab with a pipe wrench and use plenty o lube


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

If it is galvanized coming out of a concrete slab then there would have to be a union on the hot and the cold unless the valve was insyalled when they poured the slab, before they builtthe house on it.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

this job will be cake, youll be done in an hour, dont sweat it


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## trout lake (May 9, 2009)

It's the old "galvanized" thing rearing it's ugly head. Tough location, can't get the threader on it to put a transition fitting on, it's a do or die situation......weld the crap. It's a bit drastic to think an in-home situation requires welding to get a fix, and it is. I've always found a threaded joint to work with. In situarions though, where pehaps a re-fit is being done and threading is next to impossible (high overhead) welding is the ticket. Just need to make sure that transitions are proper and you don't end up defeating the intent of the elecrochemical application in the first place. Watch your beathing when the guy's doing it .........don't want a horn growing out of the top of your noggin:yes:
tl


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

Killertoiletspider said:


> If it is galvanized coming out of a concrete slab then there would have to be a union on the hot and the cold unless the valve was insyalled when they poured the slab, before they builtthe house on it.


 
this is what i was thinking. even if the unions are 6" above the slab, they kind of have to be there unless they started the piping at the shower valve and worked back towards the water heater. i doubt that's how it was done. that's the whole reason 2 and 3 handle valves have unions built in.






paul


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

Plasticman said:


> Yea thats ok if there is a threaded joint to adapt to. What if there is no joint from the slab up to the 90 in the valve? won't be any room.


PM, i know you like cpvc, just like me. Use a cpvc x brass wing eard ell. Screw the wing eared ell on where the old 90 was. Make sure you get the Short brass male adapters for the valve, you will have just enough room. There are 2 differnent molds of those brass male adapters, one is about an inch shorter than the other.:thumbsup:


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

that would work, or you could use a high ear brass 90 and a 1" piece of 1/2" copper on each side, it might save half of an inch over the cpvc since you could solder right into the valve. 

my money's still on there being unions. bring your flashlight and mirror when you open the wall and you'll find them.





paul


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## Plasticman (Oct 14, 2008)

Most older homes here have no unions on the valve or between it and the slab. That is why I dreaded doing this job but this old man seems to really like me so I must do this. RSP, good idea. Tomorrow I will swap the universal valve for an iron pipe valve . Maybe see ya there. ( E & E ) 9 ish


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

What rocksteady mentioned is just as well. The only think i dont like about the sodering that close to the threads, is heating it up too much, and burning out the dope. 

For all the smart asses, before you even begin.
(Yes, RSP hates burning out the dope.)


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> For all the smart asses, before you even begin.
> (Yes, RSP hates burning out the dope.)


 

smart asses think alike. :laughing:






paul


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## Plasticman (Oct 14, 2008)

Went there today. Guy had shelves in closet removed. Low and behold the entire front of the tub was accessable, wheew!
No unions, like I figured but I lucked out. There was a coupling on each water pipe. Made an easy change out using cpvc. ( sorry Protech ).
Was outta there in an hour with a check in my hand. Thanks to all who replied and offered some very sound advice. :rockon: :thumbup:


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

GREENPLUM said:


> this job will be cake, youll be done in an hour, dont sweat it


 told ya :clap:


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## Plasticman (Oct 14, 2008)

Yea, ya did. arty:


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## Christina (Jul 14, 2009)

:notworthylastic... YOU ROCK!! Good Job... Keep up the good work!! :thumbup:


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