# (video) setting toilets with silicone and removal



## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

This thread should get some real action :laughing:

BTW, I would like to thank Christina for teaching me to use silicone!
I am not ashamed to say I learned a great plumbing tip from a girl .

Notice that you can quickly remove a toilet set with silicone. Yet at the same time, it is impossible for the toilet to rock! When you see my boots sliding across the tile floor that is me trying with all my strength to get the toilet to rock or break free without the bolts installed! 









Now you will see the new Avalanche toilet going in with some silicone. Happy customer, no call backs :thumbup:.










Search tags: Silicone, setting a toilet with silicone, silicone caulk, caulking a toilet, watercloset installation, water closet, commode, john


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Try using a mortar pan set on an old towel when changing toilets. Place it in front of the old toilet. Pick the toilet and place it in the pan then grab the towel and drag it out the house. The towel will let it slide without scratching the floor and the pan will keep all the water inside.


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

gear junkie said:


> Try using a mortar pan set on an old towel when changing toilets. Place it in front of the old toilet. Pick the toilet and place it in the pan then grab the towel and drag it out the house. The towel will let it slide without scratching the floor and the pan will keep all the water inside.



I just use the cardboard box that the new toilet came in.

Thanks for the tip though :thumbsup:


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

I use my water heater pump and drain the toilet down the tub or shower. then put enough visqueen on the floor to fold up around the toilet and duct tape all round the toilet. then wheel it out.


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## HOMER (Jun 5, 2011)

Homer's Tips

use the dremel multi max tool to separate the silicone seal.

especially effective if the floor is linoleum tiles


to clean up your silicone seal have you tried these ?


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

I'll call you for the next one that I have to remove for drain cleaning...

You know...

That one in the basement that has erupted... :laughing:

You'll change your tune....


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

I just leave the toilet in the tub and tell the customer it is his problem to get rid of it, cuz my back hurts....:laughing:


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

Redwood said:


> I'll call you for the next one that I have to remove for drain cleaning...
> 
> You know...
> 
> ...


I'd just hit it with a torch.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

Tommy plumber said:


> I just leave the toilet in the tub and tell the customer it is his problem to get rid of it, cuz my back hurts....:laughing:


 

*****, that's my line! :thumbup:


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

Get rid of the Silicone, put a few small dabs of E-6100 under the toilet before setting and it will be there until the house comes down. 

http://www.epiindustrial.com/E-6000®Series_Industrial_Strength_Adhesives

http://www.watergarden.org/s.nl/it.A/id.1193/.f


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

Just use a sponge (you guys got them fancy rubber gloves anyway) to get the water out of the bowl. I too use the box the new toliet is in, it soaks up water as well. Replace commode, clean bathroom and trail to outside door well, and get check. Then repeat process till daily revenue is met and get home to the zone.


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## mccmech (Jul 6, 2011)

How about using a razor-knife on those silycone joints. They work just as well as that big thing you were using PT. Also less chance of scratching the tile. As far as toilet removal, try a contractor bag. I understand the cardboard is absorbant & stuff, but ya just never know. The bag keeps "everything" contained nice and neat.


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## PrecisePlumbing (Jan 31, 2011)

Today's top tip campers: heat your blade with your mapp gas and slice through silicone like it isn't even there ; )


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## nhmaster3015 (Aug 5, 2008)

I use that Oatley stuff you pour into the toilet and it makes the water all gell up. Works super and if the moron's have put the blue cake in the toilet it keeps all that crap from dripping and staining the floor. Then I have an apprentice carry the old one out because I don't do that kind of work anymore. :laughing:


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

PrecisePlumbing said:


> Today's top tip campers: heat your blade with your mapp gas and slice through silicone like it isn't even there ; )


Waste of time IMHO but thanks for the tip.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

easttexasplumb said:


> Just use a sponge (you guys got them fancy rubber gloves anyway) to get the water out of the bowl. I too use the box the new toliet is in, it soaks up water as well. Replace commode, clean bathroom and trail to outside door well, and get check. Then repeat process till daily revenue is met and get home to the zone.


 I just carry around a small wet/dry vac and vacuum out the tank and the trapway.


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## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

I'm sure this will sound like a dumb question...

Is everyone else having a huge problem with callbacks if they use siliconized latex caulk or grout to set their toilets?? Maybe it's just me, but I've always used plain old plumbers caulk or grout and don't have a huge problem with rocking toilets.

Oh, and +1 on the vacuum idea. Much quicker than a sponge.


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

house plumber said:


> I use my water heater pump and drain the toilet down the tub or shower. then put enough visqueen on the floor to fold up around the toilet and duct tape all round the toilet. then wheel it out.


I don't like the idea I of using the same pump on used toilet bowls and potable water systems......


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Protech said:


> This thread should get some real action :laughing:
> 
> BTW, I would like to thank Christina for teaching me to use silicone!
> I am not ashamed to say I learned a great plumbing tip from a girl .
> ...


 A couple of observations;

A) You need a cameraman.

B) You didn't double nut the original installation.

C) You need a 5/16" nutdriver.

D) That wallpaper is hideous.

E) You used a flexible supply on the replacement.

F) Using your tubing shear to break the bead would never fly if it was installed on a hardwood floor or a vinyl/linoleum floor.

G) Get a haircut, you filthy hippie.:laughing:


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

Widdershins said:


> A couple of observations;
> 
> A) You need a cameraman.
> 
> ...


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## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

Protech said:


> I don't like the idea I of using the same pump on used toilet bowls and potable water systems......


As long as the water heater is disconnected from the hot & cold piping every time, it's not a big deal. It would be potentially hazardous to do otherwise.


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## woberkrom (Nov 19, 2010)

This is what I use to get the water out of the toilets.

http://www.tools4flooring.com/gundlach-853-the-last-drop-suction-gun-p-896.html


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## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

I user a turkey baster to get the water out of the bowl. Light,cheap, less trips to the truck and I can return it to my wife before thanksgiving.


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

Richard Hilliard said:


> I user a turkey baster to get the water out of the bowl. Light,cheap, less trips to the truck and I can return it to my wife before thanksgiving.


Note to self, Decline Richard's Thanksgiving invitation.


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

Protech said:


> I don't like the idea I of using the same pump on used toilet bowls and potable water systems......


I have 2. 1 for each occasion clearly marked. But yes the heater is totally disconnected before I drain. But still have 2.


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

Widdershins said:


> I just carry around a small wet/dry vac and vacuum out the tank and the trapway.


i used to too. Until I turned around and saw mud all over the wall. it was blowing out as it was sucking.


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## NYC Plumber (May 4, 2011)

I just use a plunger to get the water out, it will get enough out so that i can carry without spilling.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

house plumber said:


> it was blowing out as it was sucking.


Vacuum's tend to do that.:laughing:


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

Widdershins said:


> Vacuum's tend to do that.:laughing:


Not the contents though. They're supposed to stay in the vacuum


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## PeckPlumbing (Mar 19, 2011)

woberkrom said:


> This is what I use to get the water out of the toilets.
> 
> http://www.tools4flooring.com/gundlach-853-the-last-drop-suction-gun-p-896.html


Good tool, also a cheaper alternative is a fluid transfer pump or suction gun available from any auto parts store. :thumbup:


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## Mega Smash (Oct 9, 2009)

I pulled and reset a siliconed bowl today. I prefer using a new Olfa blade to slice the seal. It has just enough bend to give a nice close cut.


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## Plumbergeek (Aug 16, 2010)

I vacumn the tank & bowl with a small shop vac and set toilet on cardboard to protect the floor, after I reset toilet I mix up some plaster of paris and wipe the joint between the base and the floor.
The plaster allows me to steady the commode + level it. If a leak occurs from the wax ring the plaster will dissolve instead of concealing the leak.


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## Bayside500 (May 16, 2009)

Plumbergeek said:


> I vacumn the tank & bowl with a small shop vac and set toilet on cardboard to protect the floor, after I reset toilet I mix up some plaster of paris and wipe the joint between the base and the floor.
> The plaster allows me to steady the commode + level it. If a leak occurs from the wax ring the plaster will dissolve instead of concealing the leak.



and what happens when someone pees all over the floor, the plaster of paris dissloves LOL


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

I'm going to be trying unsanded epoxy grout for setting WC's on my next job.

That stuff seems pretty bulletproof and it's supposed to be stain proof.


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## gitnerdun (Nov 5, 2008)

I use one of these to empty water. 

Silicone cleans up nicely with rubbing alcohol. I would not ever use silicone for toilet setting. Why not use shims, if needed, and latex caulk?
You do need a 7/16 nut driver.

I remove the tank from the bowl to get it out of the house, your back will thank you later.







And this tool to cut the new closet bolts, and yes the nuts do come off after. When they are new they are in the tackle box, they cut 20lb power pro like it's mono.


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## 100 Watt (Aug 11, 2011)

gitnerdun said:


> I use one of these to empty water.
> 
> Silicone cleans up nicely with rubbing alcohol. I would not ever use silicone for toilet setting. Why not use shims, if needed, and latex caulk?
> You do need a 7/16 nut driver.
> ...


 
What he said!:thumbup: White tub and tile caulk (cleans with water) Plastic Shim if needed.
Also, we've been using the poly bolts for a few years. Very easy to cut off. They hold nicely and I've never had one strip out. I was hesitant at first but now prefer them over brass.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

100 Watt said:


> What he said!:thumbup: White tub and tile caulk (cleans with water) Plastic Shim if needed.
> Also, we've been using the poly bolts for a few years. Very easy to cut off. They hold nicely and I've never had one strip out. I was hesitant at first but now prefer them over brass.


 Should I ever lean forward to pet one of my cats while sitting on the john in an uneven floor situation those poly bolts are going to sheer right off.

I've seen it happen.


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## Jchar5147 (Aug 16, 2011)

**laughing**Has it happened to you or have you actually seen it happen. if you have seen it happen, was the person embarrassed? Did you try to catch them? I'd you did catch them, did he/she say thank you? No, but seriously, I've only ever used brass.


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## Jchar5147 (Aug 16, 2011)

** edit** if you did catch them,,, sorry


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## Jeffklan (Jun 24, 2011)

I use the nylon bolts, and as long as it's shimmed properly on an uneven floor you should have no problems with them popping. Also, when working with apprentices, if your using the nylon bolts the bolts will break before the toilet when they over tighten them.


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## stillaround (Mar 11, 2009)

Jeffklan said:


> I use the nylon bolts, and as long as it's shimmed properly on an uneven floor you should have no problems with them popping. *Also, when working with apprentices, if your using the nylon bolts the bolts will break before* the toilet when they over tighten them.


 
And miss out on one of plumbings most memorable lessons...THE 1ST TOILET I BROKE....no one should get a pass......I still remember my boss saying,"everyone breaks one" to make me feel better , then he said,"if you break this one , run".....


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## njoy plumbing (May 19, 2009)

Widdershins said:


> Should I ever lean forward to pet one of my cats while sitting on the john in an uneven floor situation those poly bolts are going to sheer right off.
> 
> I've seen it happen.


Not if you use silicone!:whistling2:


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## njoy plumbing (May 19, 2009)

Protec- Just the fact that you are now nominated for a short film documentry on toilet install/removal 101,.......I salute you!!:thumbup:


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

stillaround said:


> And miss out on one of plumbings most memorable lessons...THE 1ST TOILET I BROKE....no one should get a pass......I still remember my boss saying,"everyone breaks one" to make me feel better , then he said,"if you break this one , run".....


 I broke a tank a few weeks ago.

I was assembling a new Toto Drake and kneeled on my crescent wrench just as I was guiding the tank to bowl bolts through the openings on the bowl.

Hurt like hell. I went in the day after and had both of my knees drained.

45 ounces of blood and plasma drained from both knees. It was all I could do to not pass out when I saw that big arse syringe/needle being stuck in my knee.


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## stillaround (Mar 11, 2009)

Widdershins said:


> I broke a tank a few weeks ago.
> 
> I was assembling a new Toto Drake and kneeled on my crescent wrench just as I was guiding the tank to bowl bolts through the openings on the bowl.
> 
> ...


 Sorry for that...I know sometimes I've knelt down and have hit a stone..or just on a hard surface too long requires some recoup time...
I bought knee pads but can only find one


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Widdershins said:


> Should I ever lean forward to pet one of my cats while sitting on the john in an uneven floor situation those poly bolts are going to sheer right off.
> 
> I've seen it happen.





njoy plumbing said:


> Not if you use silicone!:whistling2:



So what you are saying is that it is okay to use Garbage Parts as long as you glue them in place...

Is that correct? :whistling2:

I have found that PL-400 holds very well.... :laughing:


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

Redwood said:


> So what you are saying is that it is okay to use Garbage Parts as long as you glue them in place...
> 
> Is that correct? :whistling2:
> 
> I have found that PL-400 holds very well.... :laughing:


I use thick brass bolts AND silicone. A tornado could blow the house down and that toilet bowl will still be there!


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Protech said:


> I use thick brass bolts AND silicone. A tornado could blow the house down and that toilet bowl will still be there!


I'm kinda partial to the 5/16" brass closet bolts myself...
I also don't use those all plastic closet flanges or the ones with the painted steel ring....

A PVC Closet Flange with a Stainless Steel Ring is just what Redwood ordered... :thumbup:

I'll break with you on the silicone though I've had too many problems with erupting thrones not wanting to come loose without taking the floor with it....

Kinda my drain cleaning nightmare...

Never had any problems using Polyseamseal or, Phenoseal... :thumbup:


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

Redwood said:


> I'm kinda partial to the 5/16" brass closet bolts myself...
> I also don't use those all plastic closet flanges or the ones with the painted steel ring....
> 
> A PVC Closet Flange with a Stainless Steel Ring is just what Redwood ordered... :thumbup:
> ...


I might feel different if I lived up north, but down here in Florida it is like a 1 in a 1000 event that I have to pull a toilet to get to a mainline stoppage. It's either the roof vent or the yard cleanout 99.9% of the time.

Those SS flange rings are supa fly tho :cool2:


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Redwood said:


> I'm kinda partial to the 5/16" brass closet bolts myself...
> I also don't use those all plastic closet flanges or the ones with the painted steel ring....
> 
> A PVC Closet Flange with a Stainless Steel Ring is just what Redwood ordered... :thumbup:
> ...


 Polyseamseal is what I've used for decades -- Cleans up quickly with water and the bead can be broken by rocking the WC from side to side if it has to be pulled.

I still plan on giving unsanded epoxy grout a whirl the next time I set a WC.

And ditto on the stainless rings -- Those flanges are pretty much bulletproof.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

stillaround said:


> Sorry for that...I know sometimes I've knelt down and have hit a stone..or just on a hard surface too long requires some recoup time...
> I bought knee pads but can only find one


 I went to a restaurant supply store and bought one of those comfort floor mats; Thick spongy rubber. My knees are loving it.


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

Widdershins said:


> I went to a restaurant supply store and bought one of those comfort floor mats; Thick spongy rubber. My knees are loving it.


I carry a 3'x2' piece of 1" armaflex with me...Works great.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Airgap said:


> I carry a 3'x2' piece of 1" armaflex with me...Works great.


 We should prolly delete these posts -- Don't want that Keepitinthe70's feller thinking we're a couple of pansies.:laughing:


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

Widdershins said:


> We should prolly delete these posts -- Don't want that Keepitinthe70's feller thinking we're a couple of pansies.:laughing:


Good point...I meant thumbtacks is what I throw out on the floor...


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