# honey hole



## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

stumbled into a honey hole today:laughing::laughing:

a vacant apartment in a 6 unit complex and it appears
that the sewer has been backin gup in this place for 
about a week.... 

there is so much crap that the lid to the toilet is bulgeing up an inch or two :laughing::laughing:

There is no easy clean out and I considered opening the wall and cutting in a clean out for the poor ******* that was gonna have to mess with this one...

we dont do this kind of work and I wonder how other 
experts in the feild handle something as nasty as this... 

would you do it from the roof, or you you take that toilet up and go in head first??? :laughing:


ohh the humanity


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## UN1TED-WE-PLUMB (Oct 3, 2012)

Could you go upstairs and pull a toilet?

If so that would be the best way.


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## AlbacoreShuffle (Aug 28, 2011)

DO NOT pull the down stairs toilet !
If you can cut a c/o in Id go that route.


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## UN1TED-WE-PLUMB (Oct 3, 2012)

The only thing I'd touch that downstairs toilet with is a sledgehammer.


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

I would tell them to call Pro-tech or whomever handles clean up. Once the initial crap is cleaned up I would go in and open the drain. 

I'll put boots on and work in a mess to an extent, but only to a point.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Whatever you do, I would not pull the toilet. The backup has probably reached the p-traps of the downstairs tubs and showers if it's backing up into the toilet. If that toilet were pulled up, the mess would likely start oozing up out of the closet flange. Can you picture it?.......


After the main line is opened up, don't be surprised if the tub is not draining and/or a shower. You'll need to check those before you leave. I've had tubs get stopped up from the main line backing up and pushing toilet paper, etc, into the tub's p-trap.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Pictures?


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

*thanks for the advice*



Tommy plumber said:


> Whatever you do, I would not pull the toilet. The backup has probably reached the p-traps of the downstairs tubs and showers if it's backing up into the toilet. If that toilet were pulled up, the mess would likely start oozing up out of the closet flange. Can you picture it?.......
> 
> 
> After the main line is opened up, don't be surprised if the tub is not draining and/or a shower. You'll need to check those before you leave. I've had tubs get stopped up from the main line backing up and pushing toilet paper, etc, into the tub's p-trap.


 
thanks for the advice, but I aint touching it....

I sent a sewer cleaning company out, 
but they dont know what a sweet suprise they
 got in store for them tomorrow....:laughing::laughing::laughing: 


all I am gonna do is take their bill and add on 
about 70 bucks for my trip out , then turn it into the landlord......:thumbup:


I hope I dont see those fellas anytime at at the local 
supply house be cause they are gonna be pissed off ...


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

Yuck. I would handle this as follows.

1. Inform them they have a biohazardous situation on their hands
2. Inform them I cannot unclog the drain until the mess is under control 
3. Give them the number to serve pro, or local cleanup crew
4. Ask if they want me to schedule the cleanup or if they will handle it
5. Leave.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Big issue with the place just sitting there is that once you clear the stoppage, there's a huge probability that all the trap will need to be cleared individually because it's have dried sewage matter in them.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

That's why plumbers get the big bucks....I love jobs like that....eat it up with a spoon.......:laughing:


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

That would be a nasty one. I would be trying really hard to find C/O's. I've yet to walk away from one but this would get really pricey. If I did manage to find C/O's and get it opened up someone besides my company would be cleaning a mess like that.


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## affordabledrain (Nov 24, 2009)

I see a jetter in my future on a job like that:thumbup:.I wouldsuckup all the poo. Slowly remove the toilet. I mean slowly. Like put your vac under it. til it stops sucking. Cover the room in plastic and go for what you know. I have done messes like this b4. Made nice money. I have a few good tricks for messes like this


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## antiCon (Jun 15, 2012)

You all a bunch of baby's  I had to pull this toilet this week.. Just another day!!


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## affordabledrain (Nov 24, 2009)

All you guys have to do is wear some gloves. :yes::yes:


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

K-50 with a guide mat right into the toilet... 

Yes no who knows...


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

If there's no clean out, then to the roof with the K-60. That place needs a fire hose.


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## Cuda (Mar 16, 2009)

Just had one like this last weekend, Serve Pro won't come clean until the blockage is gone, plus they throw everything in the toilet as they clean and usually block it up again during the clean up. And yea all the other traps will be clogged also. Home insurance will usually pay for the clean up if there is insurance. I got lucky and ran a pipe out the basement window to the C/O and used my 1065 but I still had to wade through the basement and get the C/O open YUK! lol


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## deerslayer (Mar 29, 2012)

I would bring the shop vac in and clean it all up and bleach it good. Suck all the traps dry including the toilet. Dump the shop vac in the neighbors yard. Try to give the owner the impression that I really do care all the while giving them some of their dignity back. Pull the toilet put down tarps and drops and slamholio with the k-60 and depending on what I hit we may have to get the big eel out. When finished opening it I would reset the toilet and clean it up the best I could. 3-5 hr job usually depending on what the blockage is. Wear gloves and go to work that is what we get paid to do. Is it nasty? Hell Yeah! But complaining will not do any good just get to work.


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## SewerRat (Feb 26, 2011)

This is why we keep a small container of Vicks in our drain cleaning vehicle. Rub some on your upper lip just south of your nostrils before you even start.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

antiCon said:


> You all a bunch of baby's  I had to pull this toilet this week.. Just another day!!
> 
> View attachment 24008


So you're the one that threw the basketball down the drain that Cuda had to jet out?


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

SewerRat said:


> This is why we keep a small container of Vicks in our drain cleaning vehicle. Rub some on your upper lip just south of your nostrils before you even start.



That way menthol can really open up those sinuses and you can inhale the good stuff. :jester:


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## saysflushable (Jun 15, 2009)

a litlle sewage or a lot of sewage it's all the same. plug the tub so it won't drain scoop out the toilet as best as you can. pull toilet and clear thge blockage...........look at it like this way, I don't need to worry about the mess I might make!:thumbup:. I sure dislike agureing though toilet flanges.


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## affordabledrain (Nov 24, 2009)

Somebody will have to do it. Why not me. There is a great market for doing jobs like that. You can charge what you want. Generally the person paying the bill is just happy they did not have to clean that mess themselves. Around here. Hardly any company will touch a mess like that. I will and do. Makes for an easy " Good payday" for me. In the past. I would have the owner or maintenance guy clean it up first. That did not work. They always made more of a mess. So I started just doing the whole job. I could only laugh so much at a maintenance guy tossing his cookies and being in tears :laughing::laughing:


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## BROOKLYN\PLUMB (May 21, 2010)

ChrisConnor said:


> That way menthol can really open up those sinuses and you can inhale the good stuff. :jester:


It's better than tasting while you inhale


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

BROOKLYN\PLUMB said:


> It's better than tasting while you inhale



Aw, heck, if that's all you're worried about, get some febreeze or some scented candles.


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## Fullmetal Frank (Jul 11, 2012)

The problem more than likely is no where near that toilet, so there's no way I'd try to work in that unit. Not when there are so many other options to try, and they are on there own for cleaning that mess up.


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## bulldozer (Jan 11, 2009)

We have a guy working here that would dive right in! The nastier the better. We were on a bursting job and the by pass pumps went down. He was standing in honey knee deep! Some guys got the knack for it.


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## plumberpro (Jan 1, 2013)

Ben there done that were rubber gloves ect it's mind over matter on jobs that nasty no need for drop cloths on floor . I have a piece of1.5 PVC with a 45 on it stick that in bowl use bulb auger on. k50 to snake out line to get it open, then can determine if I need to pull toilet to rod out with big machine when done wash everything with bleach be sure to ck. the b tub test drains collect payment done!

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

*mission accomplished*

job completed today for $250.00, 

I called to see what happenned and they claim that they took up the toilet.... I dont care how it went as long as I did not have to dive in....


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

If the blockage is under or close to the building, run the closest lav sink with no blade 3/8 straight cable, unless you think it's roots. 

You can "bump" a tampon or wipes clog to get some relief so you can pull a toilet. I would rather run from a vent than go in there. 

But I have had some where the people upstairs would not stop flushing and the water SOV was locked.


If someone decides to pull the stool full, I recommend getting a shallow rubbermaid tub to stand in and keep your pedal dry.

F-tard was giving me crap about it till I let him know it was for the pedal and we were both getting spayed with sh!t water as we spoke. I guess he thought I was throwing clean water as I pulled back.


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## affordabledrain (Nov 24, 2009)

$ 250.00:furious::furious: I am way more for messes like that. I believed I was the cheap guy.
My trick for those. is if it is a basement apt and has a drum trap for the tub. I will run my 5/8 cable and k 50 thru that to " relieve it a bit " I have tried using the sink but could not make the turns.


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

affordabledrain said:


> $ 250.00:furious::furious: I am way more for messes like that. I believed I was the cheap guy.
> My trick for those. is if it is a basement apt and has a drum trap for the tub. I will run my 5/8 cable and k 50 thru that to " relieve it a bit " I have tried using the sink but could not make the turns.


yes, I expected more like 350 , 

so they claim that they took up the toilet, 
but for all I know they went down a vent and got lucky... and told me a different story

who knows, as long as the crap flows
and I did not have to wallow in it..

everybodys happy:yes::yes:


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## plumberdad70 (Sep 29, 2012)

just get in there and do what you gotta do and be done with it!!!!!! just another day @ the office!!!! get er done!! LOL


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## JK949 (Mar 18, 2009)

Master Mark said:


> job completed today for $250.00,
> 
> I called to see what happenned and they claim that they took up the toilet.... I dont care how it went as long as I did not have to dive in....


Add a 1 in front of that I might get out of bed.


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

There would need a 1 in front of it to do it properly... In that picture you have a legit biohazardous situation. To sterilize that whole thing would probably be 1200 in itself. If the shiot water got on the drywall it would need to be cut out. If I knew the tenants I would print off some mold information for them to review. I would cringe if the tenant had any young children. 

Running a mop over that when stagnant shiot water has covered the floor for days isn't going to cut it. Hopefully the floor was concrete, as you can at least clean that. If its a wood subfloor it's shot. I wouldn't take the responsibility to clean that unless it could be restored properly.


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## plumberinlaw (Jan 13, 2010)

Smells like money to me. I would start with a shop-vac before I pulled the toilet. Customer would pay for a new shop-vac. Would not cost less than $495, probably more.


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## damnplumber (Jan 22, 2012)

*that's what I'd do*



RW Plumbing said:


> Yuck. I would handle this as follows.
> 
> 1. Inform them they have a biohazardous situation on their hands
> 2. Inform them I cannot unclog the drain until the mess is under control
> ...


Been there...done that...I've even been the guy to clean that....NOPE no more! Sub it out or have the LL deal with the mess first


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## deerslayer (Mar 29, 2012)

RW Plumbing said:


> There would need a 1 in front of it to do it properly... In that picture you have a legit biohazardous situation. To sterilize that whole thing would probably be 1200 in itself. If the shiot water got on the drywall it would need to be cut out. If I knew the tenants I would print off some mold information for them to review. I would cringe if the tenant had any young children.
> 
> Running a mop over that when stagnant shiot water has covered the floor for days isn't going to cut it. Hopefully the floor was concrete, as you can at least clean that. If its a wood subfloor it's shot. I wouldn't take the responsibility to clean that unless it could be restored properly.



Don't walk outside brother there is mold in the air, while we are at it you might wanna quit breathing til you get your bubble built because indoor air qaulity is usually worse.
I mean bleach water on non porous surfaces is good enough for hospitals why not a home? By the way concrete is porous


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

deerslayer said:


> Don't walk outside brother there is mold in the air, while we are at it you might wanna quit breathing til you get your bubble built because indoor air qaulity is usually worse.
> I mean bleach water on non porous surfaces is good enough for hospitals why not a home? By the way concrete is porous


Since when is wood a non porous surface? What happens to drywall when it's wet for a long period of time? If you do the work, you take the responsibility. If you charge for cleanup, it better be clean. I've seen similar situations in a hospital. Guess what they did? Cut out bottom two feet of drywall, replaced flooring and everything that came in contact with the mess. Now, why do you suppose they did that when they could have just thrown some bleach water on it...


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

deerslayer said:


> Don't walk outside brother there is mold in the air, while we are at it you might wanna quit breathing til you get your bubble built because indoor air qaulity is usually worse.
> I mean bleach water on non porous surfaces is good enough for hospitals why not a home? By the way concrete is porous


FWI:

I do a lot of work with a mold remediation company and the owner also teaches courses on the topic. Bleach does not get rid of mold. It only affects odor and bacteria. According to him the only way to remove mold from wood is to sand it off or replace the wood. The same goes for the paper on drywall.

Eliminating the moisture does cause it to become inactive and stop growing. This is effective only if it never gets wet again. Bleach does nothing except make it harder to actually get rid of the mold.

When the wallboard or wood is dry, it can be sanded. The mold can be contained in a HEPA vac and disposed of in burial bags. Washing it with bleach only makes it impossible to sand it off because it soaks it into the material where as it was originally only on the surface.

When dry, mold can be sanded off drywall safely.


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## JK949 (Mar 18, 2009)

deerslayer said:


> Don't walk outside brother there is mold in the air, while we are at it you might wanna quit breathing til you get your bubble built because indoor air qaulity is usually worse.
> I mean bleach water on non porous surfaces is good enough for hospitals why not a home? By the way concrete is porous


Liability. Do you want it? I don't. You are not responsible for the damage, so don't assume it. Always document all water damage before stating a job and get signatures that it as pre-existing. That way is case of a call-back you aren't eating a water damage cleanup bill that you aren't responsible for.


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

plbgbiz said:


> FWI:
> 
> I do a lot of work with a mold remediation company and the owner also teaches courses on the topic. Bleach does not get rid of mold. It only affects odor and bacteria. According to him the only way to remove mold from wood is to sand it off or replace the wood. The same goes for the paper on drywall.
> 
> ...


What you say is 100% correct. I would like to add one caveat though. Your advice only applies to mold on surface paper only. When it has migrated into the gypsum itself removal is the only option. This depends on how long it's been exposed to the wet conditions. If it was briefly exposed such as a splash of water or a floor which was cleaned up quickly, the damage can be minimal. If its sitting a couple days, removal is the most realistic option.


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## deerslayer (Mar 29, 2012)

plbgbiz said:


> FWI:
> 
> I do a lot of work with a mold remediation company and the owner also teaches courses on the topic. Bleach does not get rid of mold. It only affects odor and bacteria. According to him the only way to remove mold from wood is to sand it off or replace the wood. The same goes for the paper on drywall.
> 
> ...


Did the plumbing on a couple temporary trailers for NIOSH. Found mold in the chase (drywall) and thought we would be tearing it out. We were told to leave it alone as long as it was dry it posed no harm by the NIOSH inspector.

I missed the part where it had been a week of overflow and yes I would call a water cleanup contractor for that. If it's to the point of the drywall I always recomend that. But if it's on a vinyl floor and porcelain fixtures as in the pic and not migrated through to walls or subfloor, bleach water will be just fine on non-porous surfaces.
Bleach will kill mold BUT only on non porous surfaces. Obviously wood, drywall etc. are not non porous.
If they have left the shiot there long enough to mold then obviously it would be out of a plumbers realm.


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