# Tell me how you exceed the code you follow



## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

I upsize my water services to 1" but 3/4 is all thats required.
I always install a 1.5" water heater pan drain.
I always use lead roof jacks
I use sch 80 fittings when i hafta make a pvc threaded connection on potable water.


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## SlickRick (Sep 3, 2009)

I think the single most improvement I have done lately is that started using sch 80 pvc threaded nipples in place of male adt. everywhere I can after ILP made the suggestion to someone.


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

1. I try as much as possible to give drains better pitch than required.

2. Always give more support to pipes when applicable.

3. Put in more shutoffs than required.

4. May not be code necessary. I lay things out to be easy to service.

5. Run copper as much as possible.

6. Curse the day cpvc was invented.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

I don't know if I could really describe all the things I do that exceed code.
Working on a commission basis for a company that has a tough guarantee and callback policy has me doing a number of things that I do to make my work bullet proof to keep my money. To me doing work that leaves you exposed for a call back by using code accepted materials and method isn't worth it and I'd rather walk away than do work and lose the money. 

I'll keep the less than 1% callback rate thanks. If my cost is too high because I insist on using stainless steel ringed PVC closet flanges instead of all PVC flanges or, 5/16" brass closet bolts instead of 1/4" brass or steel bolts and plastic bolts then so be it. Find someone else because if I'm going to lose it why do it at all?

Everything I do is geared to being a job that satisfies the customer and lasts or, they can find someone else. Lets just say I don't care!:yes:


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Redwood said:


> I don't know if I could really describe all the things I do that exceed code.
> Working on a commission basis for a company that has a tough guarantee and callback policy has me doing a number of things that I do to make my work bullet proof to keep my money. To me doing work that leaves you exposed for a call back by using code accepted materials and method isn't worth it and I'd rather walk away than do work and lose the money.
> 
> I'll keep the less than 1% callback rate thanks. If my cost is too high because I insist on using stainless steel ringed PVC closet flanges instead of all PVC flanges or, 5/16" brass closet bolts instead of 1/4" brass or steel bolts and plastic bolts then so be it. Find someone else because if I'm going to lose it why do it at all?
> ...


 Great post Redwood:thumbsup: Most of my work is repair also and callbacks are not an option. Quality parts must be used.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

TheMaster said:


> I upsize my water services to 1" but 3/4 is all thats required.


Required here




TheMaster said:


> I always install a 1.5" water heater pan drain.


Overkill



TheMaster said:


> I always use lead roof jacks


Galvanized flashings here, unless the roof calls for it.



TheMaster said:


> I use sch 80 fittings when i hafta make a pvc threaded connection on potable water.


Switch to pex where ever I can


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Hey RON....the thread says "Tell me how you exceed the code you follow" key word there is EXCEED. I thought that meant overkill...what do you think?


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

No need to exceed pan drain by 3/4", safe yourself some money.


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Ron The Plumber said:


> No need to exceed pan drain by 3/4", safe yourself some money.


The county will accept a minimum of 1" pvc here for a water heater pan drain. The city will accept a minimum of 1.5" pvc here. Obviously some other people disagree with you as well ron. Sorry.
What happens when you hold your finger over the end of a straw full of water ron? Now with a water heater in the attic and a pan drain of 3/4"......can you see the straw ron?


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

TheMaster said:


> The county will accept a minimum of 1" pvc here for a water heater pan drain. The city will accept a minimum of 1.5" pvc here. Obviously some other people disagree with you as well ron. Sorry.


Never said it was not allowed.


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Ron The Plumber said:


> Never said it was not allowed.


 I'm sorry I dont understand your point anymore. lets try to stay on topic


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## grandpa (Jul 13, 2008)

Indiana Plumber said:


> 1. I try as much as possible to give drains better pitch than required.
> 
> .


How much better:? This could touch off a whole new debate about the liquid outrunning the solids!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Plasticman (Oct 14, 2008)

I put 55 lbs pressure on my water pipes. Code says minimum 50. :laughing:
Just kidding. I pump it up to 200. If it's ever gonna blow, I want it to be on test


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

Plasticman said:


> I put 55 lbs pressure on my water pipes. Code says minimum 50. :laughing:
> Just kidding. I pump it up to 200. If it's ever gonna blow, I want it to be on test


Try pumping the line up to 200 psi what a hand pump. :laughing:


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

*I exceed code*

By exemplifying the standard of understanding outside of what code requires and why.

In Kentucky I believe I got all thermal expansion tanks in new construction to be supported with metal hangar iron.

Also, I've been wanting to head to frankfort for a code committee meeting (invite myself F-it!) and propose a code change for any kitchen sink drain that runs horizontal must be supported every 2 feet, not 4 feet like it is code for all fixture drains.

The second one means more to me than the first because I'm finding homes less than 2 years old with totally destroyed kitchen sink drains that were not properly supported...well they were but the supports were never enough.

120 degree discharge hot water from a dishwasher is the reason those horizontal runs are getting wiped out...and 4 feet is allowing sags, large bellies to form and once that happens those j-hooks eventually snap off from being heated/cooled a bunch of times and then it begins. 

I've been building a picture collage of piping systems in KY that fell victim to this design flaw so I have proof that the problem exists and it must be corrected, because it does not imply what the plumbing principles state, which is the ritual of these piping systems to be "non-fouling" and not having that kitchen sink drain supported more than 4' intervals isn't working.

There are other things I could bring up to the state, but they'll get dismissed. Basically product reliability issues with certain products that are not holding up to the test of time, *and they know it.*


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## uaplumber (Jun 16, 2008)

I do what needs to be done to do it right. Codes get in the way? Do the job and be ready to explain. Better be right!


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Plasticman said:


> I put 55 lbs pressure on my water pipes. Code says minimum 50. :laughing:
> Just kidding. I pump it up to 200. If it's ever gonna blow, I want it to be on test


 Hey plasticman I do too!!!! I use a plumber powered Rex-wheeler hydrostatic test pump to do it with but hey....it takes big guns to do that:laughing: I'm your huckleberry


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

uaplumber said:


> I do what needs to be done to do it right. Codes get in the way? Do the job and be ready to explain. Better be right!


I do to, somethings don't need to be exceeded.


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

On a k-sink drain I like to bring 2" pvc up from the trap and use a 2x1.5x1.5 tee or combo for a double bowl sink with a disposal........seems to help prevent clogs right there having a full 2". I see alot of them 1.5 all the way to the trap inlet.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

TheMaster said:


> On a k-sink drain I like to bring 2" pvc up from the trap and use a 2x1.5x1.5 tee or combo for a double bowl sink with a disposal........seems to help prevent clogs right there having a full 2". I see alot of them 1.5 all the way to the trap inlet.


We always use 2 x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 Tee at the wall, unless the trap arm exceeds max distance to vent then it then becomes 2" Done here all the time, with ABS, no problems here to speak of.


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## ToUtahNow (Jul 19, 2008)

I was called by the inspector once because I used 2" X 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" San-tees at the lavs and kitchen fixtures of a large custom we were doing. I actually had to go over his head to his boss to get signed off. His boss was not very happy with him.

On all of our residential new construction we used 2" X 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" San-tees with 2" cleanouts even on the second floor. I guess too many drain cleanings on homes with inadequate cleanouts tainted me.

Mark


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Ron The Plumber said:


> We always use 2 x 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 Tee at the wall, unless the trap arm exceeds max distance to vent then it then becomes 2" Done here all the time, with ABS, no problems here to speak of.


 I'm speaking of a end outlet waste,I use a 2x1.5x1.5 tee for that and it leads to a 2" trap. I exceed code.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

ToUtahNow said:


> I was called by the inspector once because I used 2" X 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" San-tees at the lavs and kitchen faucets of a large custom we were doing. I actually had to go over his head to his boss to get signed off. His boss was not very happy with him.
> 
> On all of our residential new construction we used 2" X 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" San-tees with 2" cleanouts even on the second floor. I guess too many drain cleanings on homes with inadequate cleanouts tainted me.
> 
> Mark


We always run 2" to our lavs up to the tee in the wall. even thou code only requires 1-1/2" for the waste. 

Mark do you do the same on all the under floors, 2" up to the trap arms?


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## ToUtahNow (Jul 19, 2008)

TheMaster said:


> I'm speaking of a end outlet waste,I use a 2x1.5x1.5 tee for that and it leads to a 2" trap. I exceed code.


The only time I used a 2" trap at a lav or KS is when I used a 2" trap arm. 

Mark


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

TheMaster said:


> I'm speaking of a end outlet waste,I use a 2x1.5x1.5 tee for that and it leads to a 2" trap. I exceed code.


You talking about all glued joints for the under sink, good idea but, I like the idea of a baffled tee to divert the GD on the end outlet.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

ToUtahNow said:


> The only time I used a 2" trap at a lav or KS is when I used a 2" trap arm.
> 
> Mark



True, if the trap arm is 2" then you have to use a 2" trap to pass code here, bushing it down on the inlet side of the trap for the sink tie ins


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## ToUtahNow (Jul 19, 2008)

Ron The Plumber said:


> We always run 2" to our lavs up to the tee in the wall. even thou code only requires 1-1/2" for the waste.
> 
> Mark do you do the same on all the under floors, 2" up tot the trap arms?


Slab or raised foundation they were all piped the same. Of course we were not doing tract homes either.

Mark


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

I always try to use 2" drains for sinks and tubs when it gets behind the walls or under the floor, its easier and less fittings to carry too.

Supply lines I max out with my compressor, about 120 to 140 psi (Copper lines and pex only) plastic pipes I double the working pressure for tests. 

All my supply lines are 3/4 all the way to the fixture, then I use a 3/4 x 1/2 90 to stub out with.

I always try to use type L copper, it lasts a whole lot longer

All my water lines are insulated, even in the walls, helps avoid condensation issues

All my lines running to a second floor have a stop and waste so I can drain the second floor down

Every tub / shower unit made from fiberglass I put thin set down under the bottom for support

After installing tubs I try to install insulation around it to keep the cold air out and keep the tub warmer


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

ToUtahNow said:


> Slab or raised foundation they were all piped the same. Of course we were not doing tract homes either.
> 
> Mark



Good cause I know plumbers here that still will run waste lines at 1 1/2 to the tubs and lavs.


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Ron The Plumber said:


> You talking about all glued joints for the under sink, good idea but, I like the idea of a baffled tee to divert the GD on the end outlet.


 On 3/4 disposals I use this set up....the 3/4 is more pwerful so i use the combo i was refering to. Smaller disposals i just use a tee. No baffle required.....and i live with this one so i know it works Take a lookie


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## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

Full size schedule 40 ABS/PVC pipe and traps for all residential sinks.

The only reason I can think for plumbers to use that tubular crap is job security. Tubular pipe has a smaller inside diameter (more likely to plug), and more compression type fittings (more leak prone).


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

pauliplumber said:


> Full size schedule 40 ABS/PVC pipe and traps for all residential sinks.
> 
> The only reason I can think for plumbers to use that tubular crap is job security. Tubular pipe has a smaller inside diameter (more likely to plug), and more compression type fittings (more leak prone).


 I think your giving most plumbers too much credit over the whole with thinking ahead about a job. My vote is they use tubular because its super easy and quicker. How it been goin pauli? Glad to see you:thumbsup:


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## Plasticman (Oct 14, 2008)

TheMaster said:


> Hey plasticman I do too!!!! I use a plumber powered Rex-wheeler hydrostatic test pump to do it with but hey....it takes big guns to do that:laughing: I'm your huckleberry


 Yea that is what I use, a hydrostat.
Doesn't take too many pumps to get to 200 lbs, rather cinchie.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Plasticman said:


> I put 55 lbs pressure on my water pipes. Code says minimum 50. :laughing:
> Just kidding. I pump it up to 200. If it's ever gonna blow, I want it to be on test


If this is pex, you just voided the warranty.


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## winslow (Jan 3, 2010)

We do work for 1 general that guarentee's his jobs for life. He says the good thing is that gets shorter every job he does.

generally make sure that I don't load the vents and wastes to capacity so that the customer can add on later. It sucks running a new line all the way to lateral because the sewer line is too small to cut in to. Or have to run all the way to a stack because a bvranch would be too small. Lots of other small things.


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

pauliplumber said:


> Full size schedule 40 ABS/PVC pipe and traps for all residential sinks.
> 
> The only reason I can think for plumbers to use that tubular crap is job security. Tubular pipe has a smaller inside diameter (more likely to plug), and more compression type fittings (more leak prone).


 
I very rarely see a drain plugged up in the tubular that was a result of the smaller diameter. I don't thint the pound of spaghetti that was mashed up in the disposal and plugged the 1 1/2" tubular trap would have made it through shc 40 with the extra 3/16" i.d. I also don't have any problems keeping slip joint nuts from leaking. The only places around here that have glued traps and cont. wastes are mobile and modular homes and nothing pisses me off more than showing up to a k/s stoppage at one of those. I cut it all out, clear the drain and replace it with tubular.






Paul


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## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

rocksteady said:


> I very rarely see a drain plugged up in the tubular that was a result of the smaller diameter. I don't thint the pound of spaghetti that was mashed up in the disposal and plugged the 1 1/2" tubular trap would have made it through shc 40 with the extra 3/16" i.d. I also don't have any problems keeping slip joint nuts from leaking. The only places around here that have glued traps and cont. wastes are mobile and modular homes and nothing pisses me off more than showing up to a k/s stoppage at one of those. I cut it all out, clear the drain and replace it with tubular.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

rocksteady said:


> I very rarely see a drain plugged up in the tubular that was a result of the smaller diameter. I don't thint the pound of spaghetti that was mashed up in the disposal and plugged the 1 1/2" tubular trap would have made it through shc 40 with the extra 3/16" i.d. I also don't have any problems keeping slip joint nuts from leaking. The only places around here that have glued traps and cont. wastes are mobile and modular homes and nothing pisses me off more than showing up to a k/s stoppage at one of those. I cut it all out, clear the drain and replace it with tubular.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks You


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

rocksteady said:


> I very rarely see a drain plugged up in the tubular that was a result of the smaller diameter. I don't thint the pound of spaghetti that was mashed up in the disposal and plugged the 1 1/2" tubular trap would have made it through shc 40 with the extra 3/16" i.d. I also don't have any problems keeping slip joint nuts from leaking. The only places around here that have glued traps and cont. wastes are mobile and modular homes and nothing pisses me off more than showing up to a k/s stoppage at one of those. I cut it all out, clear the drain and replace it with tubular.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thats why I like the 2x1.5x1.5 combo or tee,it gives you alittle bigger pipe on the vertical after the two bowls meet. The baffle tees that I have seen with tubular restrict the flow.


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

You are right TM, the baffle tees do restrict the flow. Does a san tee have enough of a sweep to keep the water headed downstream and not up into the next basin when a big disposal is turned on and pushing a load of water down? I guess you could use a combo like you posted earlier but I do what I do.





Paul


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

rocksteady said:


> You are right TM, the baffle tees do restrict the flow. Does a san tee have enough of a sweep to keep the water headed downstream and not up into the next basin when a big disposal is turned on and pushing a load of water down? I guess you could use a combo like you posted earlier but I do what I do.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That would depend on how much vertical space is between the tee and the trap...and how much vertical space is between the non disposal side basket strainer and the inlet to the 2x1.5x1.5 tee. If I dont feel like its enough a use a combo. It workie workie:thumbup: and it exceeds code:thumbup:


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## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

pauliplumber said:


> Full size schedule 40 ABS/PVC pipe and traps for all residential sinks.
> 
> The only reason I can think for plumbers to use that tubular crap is job security. Tubular pipe has a smaller inside diameter (more likely to plug), and more compression type fittings (more leak prone).


 
After re-reading this and hearing others posts I take back the job security comment. Not that anyone was offended by lil ole me, it's just I know the majority of regulars here have the customers best interest in mind. In service plumbing, it's all about doing what works for you and your customers.


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

pauliplumber said:


> After re-reading this and hearing others posts I take back the job security comment. Not that anyone was offended by lil ole me, it's just I know the majority of regulars here have the customers best interest in mind. In service plumbing, it's all about doing what works for you and your customers.


 Not so fast......I;ve heard that from alot of old plumbers about pvc....."That stuff lasts too long...you never get to go back and replace a leaking Tubular brass trap or waste". I have heard this many times and its always from older plumbers. Some in my own family!!!!!


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## 6th Density (Nov 29, 2010)

I would have to say the biggest thing that urks me on 2 comp. domestic kitchen sinks is when you drain sudsy water from one side and the suds come up the drain on the other side. 
Oh look Ma, look at the pretty suds!!!
Yet people are using 1 compartment to clean and 1 compartment to drain cleaned dishes.

Exceed the code and sell it to your client. Trap each compartment separately!!!!!! Especially if you have a disposal. Rough-in your inwall drain stub-out at a position to put a wye or combination on it to trap both compartments!!


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## Lifer (Nov 23, 2010)

6th Density said:


> I would have to say the biggest thing that urks me on 2 comp. domestic kitchen sinks is when you drain sudsy water from one side and the suds come up the drain on the other side.
> Oh look Ma, look at the pretty suds!!!
> 
> Yet people are using 1 compartment to clean and 1 compartment to drain cleaned dishes.
> ...


So you are putting 2 traps on one trap arm ? is that allowed down there , cuz it's not up here 2 traps 2 trap arm's....


Lifer...


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## sheeptown44 (Oct 31, 2010)

Not here in ky, I have personally eye witnessed the wye comin out of the wall and two traps , one for disposal and other for sink. No offense georgia , but thats where I saw it, I'm sure it was a isolated incident. However I agree that the continuous waste situation could be improved. Just hope IKEA isnt involved.


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## 6th Density (Nov 29, 2010)

Lifer said:


> So you are putting 2 traps on one trap arm ? is that allowed down there , cuz it's not up here 2 traps 2 trap arm's....
> 
> 
> Lifer...


Working with my old boss, we never got red tagged on it. One trap arm with a wye and 2 trap adapters to feed 2 tubular p-traps. 1 for each sink compartment. Is there a code stating that mutiple sink compartments are designed to be vented by the other compartments. What difference does it make? The vent is what helps the drainage not the other sink compartments.
And now you have a system that can't contaminate the other side with soap suds crossing over through the end outlet waste tee or garbage disposal tee.


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## 6th Density (Nov 29, 2010)

sheeptown44 said:


> Not here in ky, I have personally eye witnessed the wye comin out of the wall and two traps , one for disposal and other for sink. No offense georgia , but thats where I saw it, I'm sure it was a isolated incident. However I agree that the continuous waste situation could be improved. Just hope IKEA isnt involved.


Come on now, explain why it's a bad set up. What's the difference between 2 compartments separately trapped and filled to top (full load) compared to 2 compartments combined on 1 trap and filled to the top (full load). It's going to drain at the speed the pipe size and vent size allow. It shouldn't change anything other than the fact that the trap arm has to clog before the other sink compartment gets cross contaminated. Correct me if I'm wrong.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

Guess we do it wrong in Illinois. Any sink with a disposal must ave each compartment trapped separately per our code. Also the if there is a dishwasher it is NOT to tie into the waste disposal.


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## 6th Density (Nov 29, 2010)

SewerRatz said:


> Guess we do it wrong in Illinois. Any sink with a disposal must ave each compartment trapped separately per our code. Also the if there is a dishwasher it is NOT to tie into the waste disposal.


IMHO you're not doing it wrong in Illinois. You guys have it right. Those codes decrease the chance of cross contamination.


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## 6th Density (Nov 29, 2010)

What if you have a disposal compartment where the drain is clogged and you have the compartment full of water and the disposal is running. It's going to get pushed into the dishwasher drain. Where as if it was attached to the non-disposal compartment you could only have the force of gravity pushing into the dish washer drain line and then air gap would save contamination.


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## greenscoutII (Aug 27, 2008)

Well, a couple of things I like to do that exceed code are to run a 2 inch trap arm for tubs, particularly big soaker tubs, and to set any fibreglass, Vikrell, or plastic tub in a generous bed of mortar mix.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

6th Density said:


> What if you have a disposal compartment where the drain is clogged and you have the compartment full of water and the disposal is running. It's going to get pushed into the dishwasher drain. Where as if it was attached to the non-disposal compartment you could only have the force of gravity pushing into the dish washer drain line and then air gap would save contamination.


If an air gap is used or a proper highloop is done its a non-issue.


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## chuckscott (Oct 20, 2010)

Indie said:


> 1.
> 
> 6. Curse the day cpvc was invented.



Me too! My last job Friday was at a senior assisted living home. The whole place was plumbed with cpvc! I couldn't shut off a 3/4 ball valve for fear of breaking a the pipe. I had to shut the whole building off to so a simple repair. 

Don't get me started on polybutylene....:laughing:


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## 130 PLUMBER (Oct 22, 2009)

Per city of Chicago Code...


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## jc60618 (Jan 24, 2010)

130 PLUMBER said:


> Per city of Chicago Code...


 
I have about 10 of those drawings.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

I convince people of the use of Air Gaps, even in jurisdictions that don't even require it.

Logical Thinking travels well to those with open minds.


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> I convince people of the use of Air Gaps, even in jurisdictions that don't even require it.
> 
> Logical Thinking travels well to those with open minds.


 
Either an air gap or air braking the discharge into a seperately vented receptor.


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## Lifer (Nov 23, 2010)

SewerRatz said:


> Guess we do it wrong in Illinois. Any sink with a disposal must ave each compartment trapped separately per our code. Also the if there is a dishwasher it is NOT to tie into the waste disposal.


 
Not saying your doing it wrong .. code is code .. As long as it is correct in your area go for it. I can see the reasoning for doing it ..

But here in our code you are not allowed to have 2 traps on one vent or trap arm because it has the chance to siphon esp when one of the traps is on a pumped out dishwasher drain ... ( pumped makes more pressure and more suction .. ie: chance of siphon-age)

Lifer:thumbup:


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## 6th Density (Nov 29, 2010)

Lifer said:


> Not saying your doing it wrong .. code is code .. As long as it is correct in your area go for it. I can see the reasoning for doing it ..
> 
> But here in our code you are not allowed to have 2 traps on one vent or trap arm because it has the chance to siphon esp when one of the traps is on a pumped out dishwasher drain ... ( pumped makes more pressure and more suction .. ie: chance of siphon-age)
> 
> Lifer:thumbup:



Makes sense now. My old boss was a stickler for doing it correct. But He obviously didn't see "that" potential. I wonder if they make a deep seal tubular trap. I wonder if that would even help. Thanks for the insight, Lifer.
You helped me learn and think, I've got to find some sorta solution to the initial situation...
... How to stop soap suds from backing up into the other compartment on a residential 2 comp sink.
If it were a new construction situation, sell the fact that you need 2 trap arms? But if its existing, how would one go about fixing...


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## Lifer (Nov 23, 2010)

I have run across this issue before .. I'm sure we all have . The ones that i have seen were all roughed in a little high ie: trap arm coming out of the wall to high ..
I always rough mine in at 15" from the floor , by doing this you give your self more room to drop the height of the cross pipe that connects bowl to bowl i use 6" brass tail pieces ( OR PLASTIC ) By dropping everything down some there is more room in the pipes for the " storage of bubbles " to stay rather then coming back up into the other sink. 

Also piping it in that low allows you to put the dishwasher Wye on the vertical section of pipe between the ty ( used to pick up the other bowl) and the trap itself ... I like mine there cuz it gives it a blast of water when emptying the dishwasher to help move grease and left overs out of the trap.

lifer...


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## clippercityplum (Mar 6, 2010)

I have never used tubular for continuous waste and have always used 2"x1-1/2"x1-1/2" tee but due wonder and think I may try running full 2" to bowls .


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## mccmech (Jul 6, 2011)

6th Density said:


> Working with my old boss, we never got red tagged on it. One trap arm with a wye and 2 trap adapters to feed 2 tubular p-traps. 1 for each sink compartment. Is there a code stating that mutiple sink compartments are designed to be vented by the other compartments. What difference does it make? The vent is what helps the drainage not the other sink compartments.
> And now you have a system that can't contaminate the other side with soap suds crossing over through the end outlet waste tee or garbage disposal tee.



Additionally, if one trap gets clogged (i.e. the garbage disposal trap, which I have seen), the othe trap is still funtional.


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

I use pressure couplings for my drain work, I don't know if that counts but that's how I roll.


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## beachplumber (Feb 7, 2010)

^^^i am assuming sarcasm


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

DesertOkie said:


> I use pressure couplings for my drain work, I don't know if that counts but that's how I roll.


We do that sometimes too. Especially 2". I think they are too shallow.:yes:


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

beachplumber said:


> ^^^i am assuming sarcasm



No, do you use DWV pvc couplings when installing drains? I mean couplings not all fittings, even though I prefer pressure 45's also especially when they hang.


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## beachplumber (Feb 7, 2010)

i must have misread or it was edited. i though you were saying all fittings. couplings ok:thumbsup:


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

beachplumber said:


> i must have misread or it was edited. i though you were saying all fittings. couplings ok:thumbsup:


I figured that's what it was:laughing: I have seen water 90s used, but I don't roll that way. And yes they get changed if I see them.:thumbup:


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

I was referring to just couplings as well. :innocent:


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## beachplumber (Feb 7, 2010)

I see now 
I can agree that 1" and 2" hubs can b troublesome i use pressure fittings when i need to sleave main wager service lines


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