# Eastman Pex w/ ss crimps



## plumbpro (Mar 10, 2010)

I am considering going from Uponor to Eastman for pex, Eastman is easier to get and it costs less. The warranty is identical to Uponor, the only difference in the pipe, I think, is Eastman is "C", Wirsbo is "A". So anyone have any experience with Eastman using the ss rings? Anyone know the difference between A and C pex?


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## Lifer (Nov 23, 2010)

I don't know about the "a" and "c" but ... here in Nova Scotia we almost exclusively use pex with the SS rings ... they are nice and easy but kinda pricey as far as I am concerned ..

Out West we used the copper crimp style , you have to constantly be after your crimpers adjusting them but at 15 cents instead of 45 cents and they work just the same. Much easier than other systems i have tried.. 


my 2 cents... Lifer


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

plumbpro said:


> I am considering going from Uponor to Eastman for pex, Eastman is easier to get and it costs less. The warranty is identical to Uponor, the only difference in the pipe, I think, is Eastman is "C", Wirsbo is "A". So anyone have any experience with Eastman using the ss rings? Anyone know the difference between A and C pex?


 
I'm thinking of doing the exact opposite. Uponor IMO is the sturdiest system. The SS ring is the crappiest way to join pex IMO. The bands aren't very sturdy. The Type A pex is the only type that is memory plastic. The kind that can freeze, expand, thaw and return to it's original size and shape. I recently started using "A" pex instead of B or C and "A" seems to be the highest quality. The B and C aren't as flexible and just feel cheaper. It's hard to describe.

The cost difference isn't that great when you consider using Uponor's EP fittings. I'm thinking of using the manifold/ branch hybrid system with Uponor and you actually use less fittings and it works out to be cheaper. It's not worth having a peice of pipe blow off when the SS band snaps. SS pex bands aren't allowed in my state anyhow.


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## bartnc37 (Feb 24, 2009)

I think the A and B pex material is less susceptible to chlorine due to the manufacturing process, i think it is physically cross linked while the uponor is chemically linked, but i may have that completely backwards.


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## sanplum (Nov 30, 2010)

I use B PEX for all my projects.
A PEX is very expensive and C Pex has so little cross-linking, I wouldn't call it PEX at all.


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

sanplum said:


> I use B PEX for all my projects.
> A PEX is very expensive and C Pex has so little cross-linking, I wouldn't call it PEX at all.


 Around here A pex is only a few cents more a foot than the other stuff. In the time I've been in business I've learned that putting in the cheapest stuff you can find will eventually bite you in the ass. You're better off putting in a quality product for a few more dollars because call backs are costly.

Having to come back because of a cheap part or pipe makes you look like a hack and really, there isn't much difference between a hack and a plumber that uses crappy parts. The customer pays for your skill in installing plumbing. They also pay for your knowledge in which parts are best for their job. 

With that being said, I have used the type B pex simply because I didn't know any better for years. I use the Zurn crimp ring system and it has never failed and I have never recieved a call back. As of monday though, I will offically be using type A and Uponor exclusively.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Thank you for this thread. I need to see what we've been using. We always just ask for "pex". I've got to follow up on this Monday morning.


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## plumbpro (Mar 10, 2010)

*After researching pex types:*

A pex is only made by uponor (possibly rehau also) and is the most resistant to kinks and the most flexible. It also has the best "memory" and inturn will "retract" to previous shape after freezing.

B pex is manufactured by many companies including zurn. The process used to manufacture is a little cheaper to produce pipe, thus it is a less expensive pipe compared to a type pex. It's quality is between a and c for things like flexibility and memory. It is also more uv resistant than a, but more susceptible to chlorine.

C pex uses the least expensive manufacturing process, and is the cheapest per foot. Not as flexible or freeze resistant as other types. It can be straightened out. 

Protech knows more about this subject of pex and should really chime in on this thread. 

I believe a 10 year warranty from manufacturers is fairly standard. A pex is an expansion fitting pex, b and c use some sort of crimp.


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

Pro is correct Uponor/wirsbo and rehau are the only two that make A pex. From my understanding it's a patent issue prohibiting others from making it. The expansion system is the least restrictive Pex system and seems to be the most permenant IMO.


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## beachplumber (Feb 7, 2010)

thanks for the post i didn't realize there were differences in the pex, other than what they say is uv rated

we use mostly zurn or nibco

i do run into a lot of the clear or translucent stuff, thinking that must be c pex. It seems to be of less quality


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

Don't mind if I do.

Type B (generally speaking, it varies from brand to brand) is more chlorine resistant than A. Reason being is that the Engle process used to make type A can only tolerate a small amount of additives in the resin during the cross linking process. The silane process used to make type B however can tolerate huge quantities of additives. Because of this, type B usually has several times more resistance to UV exposure and chlorine. The only brands out there that are certified for continuous chlorinated hot water recirculation (NSF-CL I believe) are type B products.

For me, the mechanical memory of type A is of little value. Why does being able to repair a kink with a heat gun matter? I guess if it was a radiant system I could see the benefit but for potable who cares?

Most failures in potable pex pipes are due to UV and chlorine (think durapex). So for me, type B with the NSF-CL rating is the best choice.

As for fittings, you need to pay close attention to what water supply so are putting them in contact with. The water in central Florida is very kind to yellow brass fittings due to it's high PH and TDS. If your areas water tends to dezincafy yellow bras then you should go with DZR brass fittings. I heard from the grape vine that someone was coming out with a SS pex fitting line too. 



plumbpro said:


> A pex is only made by uponor (possibly rehau also) and is the most resistant to kinks and the most flexible. It also has the best "memory" and inturn will "retract" to previous shape after freezing.
> 
> B pex is manufactured by many companies including zurn. The process used to manufacture is a little cheaper to produce pipe, thus it is a less expensive pipe compared to a type pex. It's quality is between a and c for things like flexibility and memory. It is also more uv resistant than a, but more susceptible to chlorine.
> 
> ...


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Protech said:


> Don't mind if I do.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

I'm a Uponor guy. I like it's expansion joint connection over any crimp. It's a stronger connection and less restrictive to water pressure. It's only draw back it is in cold weather you have to have a heat gun with you. 

I did a test with Uponor once. We took 3/4 pipe and put about 5 couples on it and hooked it up to two truck hitches. The trucks drove apart from each other very slow and the pipe gave out before any of the fittings did. That put to rest any fear for me that the joint could ever blow apart.


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## plumbpro (Mar 10, 2010)

Tommy plumber said:


> Protech said:
> 
> 
> > Don't mind if I do.
> ...


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## Lifer (Nov 23, 2010)

The life expantsey of copper piping in the area i live in is 18-22 yrs ( type L ) pex will outlast us all ...



Lifer..


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