# Jumped into the frying pan



## Cajunhiker (Dec 14, 2009)

I made the leap away from residential service.
I caught on with a mechanical company and have joined the world of commercial/industrial plumbing. 
Talk about a fish out of water. 
Expect a few questions. Lol.


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## Phat Cat (Apr 1, 2009)

I think you meant you jumped into the fire. 

Good luck in your new area of soon to be expertise. :thumbup:


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## TXPlumbBob (Dec 13, 2013)

You will like the commercial side way better than residential. And should be more money.


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## Cajunhiker (Dec 14, 2009)

Here's what I walked into.


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## fishhb (Jan 28, 2015)

welcome to the dark side get used to large pipe, rigging, operating equipment, ppe and most of all a ton of math!!!! but it sure beats crawling though atics


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## titaniumplumbr (Jun 11, 2014)

Yes everything in commercial is an opportunity for an up charge and it's fun to fix other people's mistakes and problems


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

Nothing beats commercial new construction. Now... get some stickers for your hard hat.


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## Cajunhiker (Dec 14, 2009)

First lesson: Run pipe straight. Obvious, right? Not to me!!! Lol. 
Hung some 20' sticks of 1" copper overhead. Didn't put the crown up, about 60-80 feet looked like a snake falling from the ceiling. Lol. Felt like a dumbass. 
Lesson Learned. That will NEVER happen again.


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## Plumber1970 (Mar 6, 2013)

I did the same thing. From residential service/repair/remodel to new construction commercial/residential. And to make it even better I jumped from union to non-union. Wow. What a change!!


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## dclarke (Dec 22, 2012)

I'd love to get into commercial industrial work. I need a change in so burnt on what I'm doing.


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## fishhb (Jan 28, 2015)

flyouts right you need stickers for your hard hat , they give you one for every cert and job you start. You need to were bibs and get a cart too


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## Cajunhiker (Dec 14, 2009)

Yep @Fish, first thing I did was claim a bucket as my tool bucket for the job I'm on.

Got for 1st hard hat sticker for going through a 2 hour safety orientation.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

TXPlumbBob said:


> You will like the commercial side way better than residential. And should be more money.


I agree he will like it better,the only hard part he will have is where he had his own business,now you are not the boss,it's harder than you think to go from runnin the show to being told what to do,good luck


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## pianoplumber (Apr 19, 2014)

Great to get into commercial, but sorry to say, you'll NEVER get out of residential, no matter how hard you try!


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## Cajunhiker (Dec 14, 2009)

Hardest part so far is using the lift 30-ft in the air and that freakin thing swaying side to side every time I take a step! Makes me NERVOUS!!


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## Cajunhiker (Dec 14, 2009)

Ok here's a silly question. 

What's the fastest, most efficient way you hang 2"-3" copper or CI pipe overhead using all thread and clevis or tear drop hangers, including measuring for length of rods and slope.

I've got LOTS of pipe to layout and hang overhead.


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## moz (Aug 4, 2012)

Cajunhiker said:


> Ok here's a silly question. What's the fastest, most efficient way you hang 2"-3" copper or CI pipe overhead using all thread and clevis or tear drop hangers, including measuring for length of rods and slope. I've got LOTS of pipe to layout and hang overhead.


We Chalk line the run then String line at level height or with grade. Double check string line with level to allow for slab. Measure rods at desired intervals to string line and away you go


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## Cajunhiker (Dec 14, 2009)

String line. Sounds like it takes extra time, but would look professional in the end after pipe is run.


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## Cajunhiker (Dec 14, 2009)

How bout this: 
Folding ruler or tape to measure from purlin to bottom of clevis or tear drop? 

I know rjbphd answer already


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## leakfree (Apr 3, 2011)

Cajunhiker said:


> Here's what I walked into.


 A couple of rain drops and a little mud that's not over the top of your boots,could be a whole lot worse.


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## leakfree (Apr 3, 2011)

Cajunhiker said:


> Ok here's a silly question.
> 
> What's the fastest, most efficient way you hang 2"-3" copper or CI pipe overhead using all thread and clevis or tear drop hangers, including measuring for length of rods and slope.
> 
> I've got LOTS of pipe to layout and hang overhead.


If you know your starting elevation and length of run you should be able to figure spacing and el. change at each hanger and have them cut and pre-fabbed on the ground,up on the lift with beam clamps or whatever anchors your using and hang them,sometimes I'd run a line,sometimes find a convenient point to measure from,sometimes a laser.What type of deck are you hanging from bar joists,pre cast,pan deck with beams?


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

I lay out everything with a chalk like on the ground. Mark all your hangers, and fitting make ups. Know your starting elevation and set a line laser on a column. Use that horizontal line to measure off the over head pan or beams, and figure for your pitch.

Use a plumb bob laser to laser up your hangers. 

If you mark your fittings right, you can figure all your cuts on the ground and just fly.


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## Cajunhiker (Dec 14, 2009)

leakfree said:


> If you know your starting elevation and length of run you should be able to figure spacing and el. change at each hanger and have them cut and pre-fabbed on the ground,up on the lift with beam clamps or whatever anchors your using and hang them,sometimes I'd run a line,sometimes find a convenient point to measure from,sometimes a laser.What type of deck are you hanging from bar joists,pre cast,pan deck with beams?


Hanging from Purlins. Using clevis for CI and copper tear drops for copper pipe. Spacing rods every 8 feet.


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

Purlins are bar joist or I beams correct? 

You may find that you can't always get a hanger where you need it that way, have strut on hand to span the joists and drop with a strut nut.


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## Cajunhiker (Dec 14, 2009)

Purlin. Pic is similar to the building I'm working in with the A-frame roof design. ... Gotta run 4 condensate drain lines across building to floor drains from roof where 4 HVAC system will be located. Keeping my fall at 1/4 until I have to 90 down. ... Yes, I'm using struts where needed.


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## fishhb (Jan 28, 2015)

measure your hanger from the floor to bottom of pipe then to you anchor then add fall and burn your hanger when its too bright for a laser. mark all cuts on the floor use plum laser too mark hanger write all cut length on the floor and the pipe get a book with fitting take outs for your lay out and you shodden have to shoot one tape in the ceiling:thumbsup: but make sure the floor is level!


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## fishhb (Jan 28, 2015)

ps hanger spacing is based off pipe size in the code book or engineer specs


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

No hub should have a hanger 18" or less from every coupling.


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## fishhb (Jan 28, 2015)

Flyout95 said:


> No hub should have a hanger 18" or less from every coupling.


or ever other coupling unless over 4' then every coupling


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

Cajunhiker said:


> Ok here's a silly question. What's the fastest, most efficient way you hang 2"-3" copper or CI pipe overhead using all thread and clevis or tear drop hangers, including measuring for length of rods and slope. I've got LOTS of pipe to layout and hang overhead.


 Chalk laser. Dewalt makes a nice 3 angle deal for 200$. It will shoot a horizontal laser line 30' accurate to 1/8" set your anchors thread in your rod and just keep adding pitch as you go. you'll enjoy the laser. The laser makes you lazier I always say


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## Cajunhiker (Dec 14, 2009)

We have one of these gizmos. Looking forward to fitting up CI and other pipe with this point to point laser.


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

This one will do a straight line and is magnetic. Bob lasers are cool I don't own one but I carry a regular bob and a folding ruler for some reason


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## titaniumplumbr (Jun 11, 2014)

Use a laser by Bosch they work awesome set them up on the wall and drill on my friend


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

Cajunhiker said:


> Hanging from Purlins. Using clevis for CI and copper tear drops for copper pipe. Spacing rods every 8 feet.




you guys are making me exhausted just reading about hanging that cast iron crap overhead it brings back nightmares to me.... 

I remember that stuff from 30 years ago and working for a cheap assed company that used extension ladders to get up 25 feet.... 

they could not get a lift into the building because it was a rush job and everyone had materials spread all over the place..... I left that job after a ladder slipped and moved on me .:blink::blink:

that is why I do residential...:yes::yes:


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

leakfree said:


> A couple of rain drops and a little mud that's not over the top of your boots,could be a whole lot worse.


Or he could draw a 4ft rain turtle and when 2 drops hit inside it it's time to load up and call it a day:laughing::yes:


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## TXPlumbBob (Dec 13, 2013)

If the electricians and HVAC guys did not put all their **** in the way, I always layed out on the floor with chalk lines and clear spray paint. I would mark all the fittings (get the dimensional books from the supplier) and pipe cuts on the floor. I would then mark an X where I wanted hangers. Had helpers putting up hangers and cutting pipe and Plumbers right behind them installing. This usually worked for me for all the systems and all types of material. And back then there was no such thing as a "laser bob" all was string and brass, see my avatar for examples. LOL.

If they will give you a duct layout from the HVAC company, not just the plans because it will be different, then you can avoid lots of conflict and drama. 

Usually the precedence is anything that drains has priority. Then ducting, then electric and water or pressured lines.


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## TXPlumbBob (Dec 13, 2013)

Cajunhiker said:


> Hardest part so far is using the lift 30-ft in the air and that freakin thing swaying side to side every time I take a step! Makes me NERVOUS!!


A couple of different times I saved my job because I and maybe one other plumber would go up in the high lifts. Had one that we had 90' snorkel lifts we had to extend all the way straight up to reach the beams and joists. Had to put a ladder in the basket to reach the bottom of the roof drains to anchor them down. Was always very nice to my helper then so when I was up on ladder tied off he would not leave me hanging.


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## Cajunhiker (Dec 14, 2009)

@TexPlumbBob ****e. 90 feet? I'm not getting in a lift to go up 90 feet. Ain't happening.


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

We have a 140 out here on our job.


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## Cajunhiker (Dec 14, 2009)

One would think running 1" and 1 1/2" condensate line from the ceiling to floor drains would be easy, right. 

Well, it's messing with me.

But Between working 30 feet in the air, the pitch of the A-frame roof (rises up to its peak), working with 20' sticks of copper that are curved from sitting on 2 boards for too long, and trying to keep a 1/4" slope at the same time, it's not easy for this green hand. 

What I've learned is it's better to depend heavily in measurements to raise and lower pipe on both ends in the same increments than it is to use a level on pipe that either crowns up or sags down in the air and trying to determine slope with the curvy pipe.


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## gasket (Sep 6, 2012)

With copper runs you ate bound to run into sagging pipe, especially at full sticks length. I will always put the 'bow' on the side. Regardless of the pipe looking like its a snake, you will still maintain a straighter edge on top. 

I second the using a laser. This comes in handy when you are working with a lid that has difference in its elevation from hanger to hanger. A line laser or rotating laser is best served in that instance. But I recently bought a Stabilia LAX300 that will, when in pulse(pulsating light) mode allow you to articulate the laser to set grade from a stationary point without being self leveled. It's awesome! We recently used it to set grade for setting hangers on a 10" no hub line. Worked out perfectly! 

The biggest thing for hangers is finding our your take off for the distance between where the top of pipe is and the bottom of all thread. I like a 1/2" to allow for adjustments once pipe is in the hangers. I.E, I simply take a 4" hanger and assume that once it is tightened all the way into a drop-in anchor my 'take-off'for the rod and bottom of hanger will be 4 1/4". This measurement allows the rod to 'suck' up into the anchor 3/4" allowing an amount of room between the all thread and top of pipe for future adjustment. Depending on the type of anchor you are fastening into will depict how much it 'sucks' up into it.


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## Cajunhiker (Dec 14, 2009)

Good advice @gasket. Thank you.


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

fishhb said:


> or ever other coupling unless over 4' then every coupling


each piece of pipe should have two hangers. Straight runs of 10 foot pieces should have hangers laid out one foot from each end. In other words it should be 8 feet 2 feet and so on.


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

Little tip, red glasses help see the laser when there's too much sunlight.


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## fishhb (Jan 28, 2015)

wyrickmech said:


> each piece of pipe should have two hangers. Straight runs of 10 foot pieces should have hangers laid out one foot from each end. In other words it should be 8 feet 2 feet and so on.


read your code book table 3-2


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## Rando (Dec 31, 2012)

wyrickmech said:


> each piece of pipe should have two hangers. Straight runs of 10 foot pieces should have hangers laid out one foot from each end. In other words it should be 8 feet 2 feet and so on.


That's the right way to do it. IPC says one hanger every ten feet on cast. no mention of distance from joints.


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## pianoplumber (Apr 19, 2014)

I prefer clevis hangers for cast iron, and loop hangers (tear drop) for copper.
But, you wanna look at your spec book for the job. I always think ahead to insulation. Do I want to oversize my hangers for insulation? Notch around them? Am I insulating it myself? Am I going to have to buy saddles? Install blocking?
In my experience, hanger choice is as much about the insulation as the pipe.


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## fishhb (Jan 28, 2015)

Rando said:


> That's the right way to do it. IPC says one hanger every ten feet on cast. no mention of distance from joints.


i dont think you guys understood the part of the code i was quoting it refers to when you have multiple bands with in 4' of each other you can support every other band which means a hanger on both side with in 18" of the band in cail we go off of upc


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## Rando (Dec 31, 2012)

fishhb said:


> i dont think you guys understood the part of the code i was quoting it refers to when you have multiple bands with in 4' of each other you can support every other band which means a hanger on both side with in 18" of the band in cail we go off of upc


I was just making a comment that the UPC code was different than IPC. Other than that no ****s given. :laughing:


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## fishhb (Jan 28, 2015)

so why'd did you say "thats the right way to do it" instead of pointing out the difference in upc and ipc :laughing:


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

fishhb said:


> i dont think you guys understood the part of the code i was quoting it refers to when you have multiple bands with in 4' of each other you can support every other band which means a hanger on both side with in 18" of the band in cail we go off of upc


 go back to that job five years from now it will be a mess. Or code says that every piece will be hung in a manner not to put undo stress on no hub band. Two hangers per piece unless it is under 4 feet.


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## fishhb (Jan 28, 2015)

wyrickmech said:


> go back to that job five years from now it will be a mess. Or code says that every piece will be hung in a manner not to put undo stress on no hub band. Two hangers per piece unless it is under 4 feet.


thats what i said you will have two hanger per stick if hung right it just means you can but two fitting together and put a hanger on both sides


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