# RPZ ?'s



## chonkie

Boss had me put one in, its my first one. My question is about servicing the unit. Is there something that I should do/shouldn't do to make it easy in the future for maintenance or repairs? Is it OK to have it blocked up/strapped the way I did it or will something get in the way? We dont do much commercial, so he doesnt know what it takes to work on one. The only thing I was told was to get it at least 3" away from the wall and so high off the floor and clearance on top.


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## plumbdrum

What's the manufactures instructions say? Does anybody read anymore?

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## chonkie

I read them when I have them. The box it came in did not provide them. Maybe the person responsible for packing that was having a bad day.


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## plumbdrum

Do you have a smart phone? I look up things all the time on mine

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## justme

a y-strainer before the RPZ is always a good idea, hopefully you ran the relief valve drain, as for everything else call a state certified backflow tester and they can handle it from there for a fee.


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## Tommy plumber

justme said:


> a y-strainer before the RPZ is always a good idea, hopefully you ran the relief valve drain, as for everything else call a state certified backflow tester and they can handle it from there for a fee.














Yeah that's one thing that screamed out to me, where is the provision for the drain in the event that relief dumps?


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## chonkie

Yes, i have a smart phone, but i get ****ty reception almost everywhere i work due to the fabulous Sprint network. I didnt have the ability to look up the instructions online at the site.
I have to go back tomorrow to finish the drain portion and do the other one. The drain is to the left of my TT in the first pic. Boss has to get parts so I'll tell him about the strainers. Thanks for the help.


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

Strainers are not required but always a good idea. Where is your union for removing/replacing the assembly! Sounds like you got the drain covered though.


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## Letterrip

As the others who are trying to be helpful have said, it should be fine. I third the strainer vote. These things are all very sensitive to trash in the lines. 

Just make sure that the relief valve (the outlet on the bottom middle of the unit) can be accessed for repairs. Can't tell if the wood may interfere.


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## plumbing ninja

I've seen installations here where installers fit a cheap brass swing check after an RPZ. This supposedly takes the brunt from a water hammer generated by a solenoid valve downstream??


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

Overall though, looks good dude! Other than what we've mentioned. If you plan on doing more in the future I would focus more on supporting the assembly form the piping just before and just after with some unistrut and poly clamps, just gives it a cleaner mechanical look


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## Fast fry

A hose bib upstream and or downstream to run/ clear water before testing . It is a good idea to definitely install them on the bigger more expensive units .


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## plumber tom

Fast fry said:


> A hose bib upstream and or downstream to run/ clear water before testing . It is a good idea to definitely install them on the bigger more expensive units .


Hmm, I've heard of guys failing their inspections for having a hose bibb upstream of the RPZ, when it's for premise isolation, since the end user could hook on and contaminate the water supply upstream of the device. However, the downstream hose bibb is a great idea.:thumbsup:


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## wyrickmech

Strainer is a good idea but not required. Remember that it is a requirement not to have a strainer if it is for a small fire sprinkler service. Git rid of the wood and strap iron and use strut and strut clamps would be a suggestion of mine. The other thing would be don't ever forget to run your relief drain.


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## chonkie

Thanks again to everyone being helpful. Told my boss about what y'all have told me. Going to add the strainers and unions. The 1/2" line going down is to a frostproof hosebibb. Unfortunately, he doesn't want me to unblock it the way I did it to change to unistrut, but I'll keep it in mind for next time.


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## wyrickmech

Keep trying to make it better every time and you will do well in your career. It's always good to try to find a better way keep it up.


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## supakingDFW

Looks good!...I agree with the other guys: strainer, union, unistrut and clamps, all that good stuff!...When I first came to commercial after doing new residential, I would've done the exact same thing. Just picture in your mind what it would take for you to completely remove and install a new one without having to cut into your piping. That's what makes the service/ warranty guys job alot easier! :thumbup:

Also, I don't know about other states, but in Texas, if you're not a certified Backflow Prevention Assembly Tester through the TCEQ, you're not allowed to do anything other than install and replace with new...


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## Gargalaxy

As they said, out of the optional strainer, unions (optional too for easy future removing/replacing) and supporting from the piping (more professional look) you did a good job :thumbsup:


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## plumbing ninja

Tag your RPZ with a weatherproof non tear label with your contact business details so you can pick up the service work?


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## Flyout95

This is an RPZ from a few years ago...

If I get a chance to install the one on this job I'm on now, I'll take pics. It's 10" ductile Iron in from the street.


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## Gargalaxy

Very nice and clean job fly :thumbsup:


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## Plumbus

On the right center; why the tee, ball valve and cap heading on an angle to the wall?


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## Flyout95

Plumbus said:


> On the right center; why the tee, ball valve and cap heading on an angle to the wall?


 Future irrigation system. Got a separate RPZ later.


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## chonkie

*finished up*

Well, got to finally go back and finish them today. Boss didn't get me those strainers, so I flushed the line out for awhile before filling with water for leak test. He also didnt get me those adapters for the relief drain, so this is what i came up with. I can see how to do it quicker next time and better with the unistrut, so I'm going to demand that next time. I was trying to leave an airgap under the relief drain, but my boss told me it wasnt necessary, so thats why the pvc is right up to it. I feel he is wrong, but what do i know, so is an airgap needed? The nut that someone previously asked if the wood was in the way, it doesn't look like it will be to me. I also need to add a union to the 1/2" hosebibb.


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## chonkie

Flyout, your pic made me want to rip out my wood blocking and go buy some unistrut myself, but $ is a little tight. That looks way cleaner than with wood. I also like that brass adapter for the relief drain that you used. How much water does the relief dump? Should I run larger than 1" drain line for the 1 1/2" rpz?


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## Flyout95

chonkie said:


> Flyout, your pic made me want to rip out my wood blocking and go buy some unistrut myself, but $ is a little tight. That looks way cleaner than with wood. I also like that brass adapter for the relief drain that you used. How much water does the relief dump? Should I run larger than 1" drain line for the 1 1/2" rpz?


When. The relief opens, it essentially opens full blast, it can trickle, but it can also dump. The brass is specific to RPZ drains, order one next time. Running a larger line can't hurt.


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## wyrickmech

Air gap is needed one inch min. The way he wants it would leave a chance of the relief siphoning contaminates out of the drain. Small chance but it exists.


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## chonkie

wyrickmech said:


> Air gap is needed one inch min. The way he wants it would leave a chance of the relief siphoning contaminates out of the drain. Small chance but it exists.


That is what I was thinking, in case the 1" drain line gets clogged or something falls into the 3x2 reducer and blocks it. His thinking was that if the floor drain clogs, there would have to be 3' high of water in the closet before it reaches the rpz. He wasn't thinking of it siphoning I think. I'm going to go back on my own before inspection and add the airgap and the 1/2" unions.


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## Gunnar

We installed this beast Friday


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## budders

Flyout95 said:


> This is an RPZ from a few years ago... If I get a chance to install the one on this job I'm on now, I'll take pics. It's 10" ductile Iron in from the street.


 well done fly tht looks great


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## budders

chonkie said:



> Well, got to finally go back and finish them today. Boss didn't get me those strainers, so I flushed the line out for awhile before filling with water for leak test. He also didnt get me those adapters for the relief drain, so this is what i came up with. I can see how to do it quicker next time and better with the unistrut, so I'm going to demand that next time. I was trying to leave an airgap under the relief drain, but my boss told me it wasnt necessary, so thats why the pvc is right up to it. I feel he is wrong, but what do i know, so is an airgap needed? The nut that someone previously asked if the wood was in the way, it doesn't look like it will be to me. I also need to add a union to the 1/2" hosebibb.


 not bad buddy not bad at all


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## Tommy plumber

Flyout95 said:


> When. The relief opens, it essentially opens full blast, it can trickle, but it can also dump. The brass is specific to RPZ drains, order one next time. *Running a larger line can't hurt.*












I couldn't agree more. Drain line has to be able to take all the water to prevent damage to the structure. Your boss will be liable if a speck of sand {or debris hanging up in the check valve} causes that relief to dump and the water damages the building, walls, offices, etc.


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## wyrickmech

Tommy plumber said:


> I couldn't agree more. Drain line has to be able to take all the water to prevent damage to the structure. Your boss will be liable if a speck of sand {or debris hanging up in the check valve} causes that relief to dump and the water damages the building, walls, offices, etc.


yep I have seen it happen it ain't pretty.


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## Steveking

That's one of the most diffulcult RP reliefs to repair try to install a device that's easy to repair.


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## justme

As long as you have an airgap where the relief line drains to you're fine, what the manufacturer calls an airgap fitting is actually just an air break, the air gap comes into play where you discharge the drain line. As for the drain line industry standard is if the RPZ is a 2" run a 2" drain and so on for every other size.


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## wyrickmech

justme said:


> As long as you have an air gap where the relief line drains to you're fine, what the manufacturer calls an airgap fitting is actually just an air break, the air gap comes into play where you discharge the drain line. As for the drain line industry standard is if the RPZ is a 2" run a 2" drain and so on for every other size.


 air gap at the outlet is a requirement minimum of one inch or twice the dia. Of the outlet. Air break is simply a disconnection between the drain and the receptor with the drain outlet below the flood rim. Air gap is the separation of the drain and receptor with a physical gap between the flood rim and the outlet of the drain. The air gap fitting meets this requirement. Without this air gap at the outlet the back flow will fail inspection.


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## chonkie

*Made changes, now I think I'm really finished.*

Added the air gap to both, added the 1/2" unions to both and changed the 1" line on the 1 1/2" Rpz to 2".


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## chonkie

I want to thank everyone again for providing me with info that would have taken longer to get if I just rely on my boss or other internet sources. The instructions to the rpz's weren't that helpful once I got them anyways. If we do more of them, I'll keep everything in mind from this one so I can do it right the first time.


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## Flyout95

chonkie said:


> I want to thank everyone again for providing me with info that would have taken longer to get if I just rely on my boss or other internet sources. The instructions to the rpz's weren't that helpful once I got them anyways. If we do more of them, I'll keep everything in mind from this one so I can do it right the first time.



Good fix. 

Who did the insulation?


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## chonkie

I did the insulation. Its obviously not finished in that pic.


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## Flyout95

chonkie said:


> I did the insulation. Its obviously not finished in that pic.


Duct tape? 

You work for a smaller shop?


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## chonkie

Yes its a small shop. Duct tape is all we've ever used. Is there an insulation glue for the joints? Is there a different insulation that you normally use for commercial? He probably wouldnt have gotten it for me if i ask. To top it off, the way this was run, with me having to get parts that he was supposed to pick up the day before, and not having the info i need, not getting the parts i ask for between trips, making multiple trips, is how almost every job goes. Its frustrating. If it weren't for me, he would just wait for the red tag then fix the issues. If it weren't for this site, I probably wouldn't care as much. Anyways, that's a whole other post.


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## Flyout95

Fiberglass wrapped with paper, gives a much more professional appearance.

But I worked briefly for a small shop, now I work for a powerhouse...


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## Flyout95

Next time look for something like this... http://commercial.owenscorning.com/products/pipe/fiberglas-pipe-insulation/


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## chonkie

I'm sure he underbid the job, so that's why I didn't get the parts I wanted. I made a list of things to get for next time, that way he can bid properly and I can do it properly.


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## chonkie

Its funny what you don't realize you are looking at when you see it while out and about. I hope we do more so I get a chance to do a better job with the materials the big dogs use. It was nice to get out of the new residential bubble I've been floating along in. It was nice to rub some copper and break out the TT too. You probably don't see much pex.


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## Flyout95

chonkie said:


> Its funny what you don't realize you are looking at when you see it while out and about. I hope we do more so I get a chance to do a better job with the materials the big dogs use. It was nice to get out of the new residential bubble I've been floating along in. It was nice to rub some copper and break out the TT too. You probably don't see much pex.


Only what I see on here...


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## Flyout95

Look at my thread "Research Center" in this section... That's the work my shop does.


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## supakingDFW

chonkie said:


> Yes its a small shop. Duct tape is all we've ever used. Is there an insulation glue for the joints? Is there a different insulation that you normally use for commercial? He probably wouldnt have gotten it for me if i ask. To top it off, the way this was run, with me having to get parts that he was supposed to pick up the day before, and not having the info i need, not getting the parts i ask for between trips, making multiple trips, is how almost every job goes. Its frustrating. If it weren't for me, he would just wait for the red tag then fix the issues. If it weren't for this site, I probably wouldn't care as much. Anyways, that's a whole other post.


We always use the fiberglass insulation that flyout is referring to...and most of the time, we sub that out to a crew that only does insulation. And when they're done, talk about CLEAN looking!:thumbsup: But if you have to use the foam type insulation, there is an insulation glue that you can make the joints with and you apply it with a small dobber just like your glue...pick up a can next time if you have to use the foam insulation and it'll make for a cleaner looking install..


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## chonkie

Flyout95 said:


> Look at my thread "Research Center" in this section... That's the work my shop does.


I've seen those and most other pics you've posted. I'm impressed each time.


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## chonkie

I'll look for that glue tomorrow. It will make new res go quicker and the apprentices can do a better job. I've never seen it at Locke, but then again, I've never had it in my mind to look.


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## justme

wyrickmech said:


> air gap at the outlet is a requirement minimum of one inch or twice the dia. Of the outlet. Air break is simply a disconnection between the drain and the receptor with the drain outlet below the flood rim. Air gap is the separation of the drain and receptor with a physical gap between the flood rim and the outlet of the drain. The air gap fitting
> meets this requirement. Without this air gap at the outlet the back flow will fail inspection.


If you can't run your hand through the whole area from all directions it is not an airgap , the sides of the "airgap fitting" 
make it an airbreak .


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## plbgbiz

When insulating n critical and commercial situations, we use Micro-Lok.

http://www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/gl...icro-lok HP/CI-245_Micro-Lok® HP Brochure.pdf

They have a well stocked supplier here locally. Give JM a call and find out who stocks their product close to you.


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## plumbdrum

justme said:


> If you can't run your hand through the whole area from all directions it is not an airgap , the sides of the "airgap fitting" make it an airbreak .


Sorry man it's an air gap. It's a vertical clearance with no hose or pipe into the inlet of another pipe. Think washing machine drain. Look up the part, it even says air gap.

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## justme

plumbdrum said:


> Sorry man it's an air gap. It's a vertical clearance with no hose or pipe into the inlet of another pipe. Think washing machine drain. Look up the part, it even says air gap.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


Sorry Mr Inspector you should know the definition of an Airgap , An _air gap_, as it relates to the _plumbing_ trade, is the UNOBSTRUCTED vertical space between the water outlet and the flood level of a fixture. If you can't run your hand through it from ALL directions it is NOT an Airgap.


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## justme

Washing machine drain is also not an airgap , it is an airbreak.


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## plumbdrum

justme said:


> Washing machine drain is also not an airgap , it is an airbreak.


That's what I said

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## plumbdrum

justme said:


> Sorry Mr Inspector you should know the definition of an Airgap , An air gap, as it relates to the plumbing trade, is the UNOBSTRUCTED vertical space between the water outlet and the flood level of a fixture. If you can't run your hand through it from ALL directions it is NOT an Airgap.


It is an uninstructed vertical space, stop and think about it

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## plumbdrum

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{\fonttbl}
{\colortbl;\red255\green255\blue255;}
}

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## plumbdrum

Trust me I don't need an education on definitions

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## justme

If you can't run your hand through from all angles it is NOT an UNOBSTRUCTED vertical space . Have you ever tried running your hand through a manufactured air gap, let me know how that works out for you , don't take the manufacturers word for it. I even posted a pic of what a real air gap looks like.


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## plumbdrum

Wow, now I'm just that much smarter. Do what you want man

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## Gargalaxy

Florida 
Chapter 2. Definitions

AIR BREAK (Drainage System). A piping arrangement in which a drain from a fixture, appliance or device discharges indirectly into another fixture, receptacle or interceptor at a point below the flood level rim and above the trap seal.

AIR GAP (Drainage System). The unobstructed vertical distance through the free atmosphere between the outlet of the waste pipe and the flood level rim of the receptacle into which the waste pipe is discharging.

AIR GAP (Water Distribution System). The unobstructed vertical distance through the free atmosphere between the lowest opening from any pipe or faucet supplying water to a tank, plumbing fixture or other device and the flood level rim of the receptacle.

Chapter 8. Indirect/special waste. 

802.2.1 Air gap. The air gap between the indirect waste pipe and the flood level rim of the waste receptor shall be a minimum of twice the effective opening of the indirect waste pipe.

802.2.2 Air break. An air break shall be provided between the indirect waste pipe and the trap seal of the waste receptor or standpipe.


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## justme

plumbdrum said:


> Wow, now I'm just that much smarter. Do what you want man
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


You an inspector , I don't expect too much...............:laughing:


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## plumbdrum

I think justme is confused on how the specific MANUFACTURED air gap for a RPZ works. Just because the air gap is attached to the RPZ does not mean it isn't an air gap, there is an uninstructed distance. The point I made about the air break earlier, was if justme didn't understand the difference between the 2, not saying he does not know the difference. Do whatever your code says but the specific air gap fitting for whatever RPZ you are using would comply.

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## justme

Just because you say something is an airgap or the code book says it is doesn't make it so. By the very definition of an airgap the manufacturers "airgap" doesn't fit the definition. You have your opinion and I have mine, the difference is I can prove my opinion which makes it a fact. If you can't move your hand freely in all directions 360 degrees between the 2 pipes then it is not an airgap by the definition in the code books. The air gap comes into play where the drain is terminated into the floor sink or hub drain not at the RPZ. Now spout some more about what the manufacturer calls it. If the manufacturer calls chicken **** a prime steak would that make it so?


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## plumbdrum

Whatever man, I'm not going to go tit for tat over this., got better things to do.

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## justme

plumbdrum said:


> Whatever man, I'm not going to go tit for tat over this., got better things to do.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


You're still my favorite inspector.:laughing:


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## plumbdrum

justme said:


> You're still my favorite inspector.:laughing:


Gee thanks, one more tit, does the code specifically say that you should be able to pass your hand through an air gap??? Look up the info on what brand you use, the footing is available and approved, if your Jurisdiction does not approve it fine, but under the definition it complies, do a little he work first please.

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## plumbdrum

The key words are free atmosphere

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## justme

No the key word is "unobstructed" , arms make the "airgap" fitting obstructed. The reason it is allowed is because it is made by the manufacturer. If we installed something like that from say a prep sink indirect drain to a floor sink it would be failed.


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## plumbdrum

Again tit for tat, I'm done

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## plbgbiz

We got a bit of hair splitting going on here. :laughing:

Like Justme, I was taught the "hand passing through" method. It was simply to drive home the difference between an air gap and air break to a bunch of cubs that didn't know anything. But like in all areas of life, there are nuances, exceptions, and intent.


*****
IPC 2015 
Chapter 2 - Definitions
*AIR GAP (Water Distribution System).* The unobstructed vertical distance through the free atmosphere between the lowest opening from any pipe or faucet supplying water to a tank, plumbing fixture, or other device and the _flood level rim_ of the receptacle.

*IPC 2012 Commentary*
...Many manufacturers have developed air gap fittings that provide a rigid connection to the drainage system while maintaining the minimum level of protection from contamination
*****


Nowhere does the code state that an object (such as a hand) must be able to pass between the drain outlet and the receptacle. Only that there must be enough free air space to adequately protect the water supply from contamination. It is the standard of protection that has to be met, not a single perception of Webster's definition of a certain word (gap).

An manufactured air gap connected to the RPZ meets the ASTM A112.1.3 standard not because it is manufactured, but because it meets the ASTM standard. It is "approved" and can be called an "air gap" is because the amount of the free space in proportion to the amount of material making the connection. That space is sufficient to protect the water supply. Additionally, there are not approved air gap fittings for food prep drainage. There would be a greater risk of bacterial creep. On an RPZ, that risk is considered too low to matter.

Technically, air break connections, have an air gap as well. There is a gap of free air space around the pipe where it extends into the receptacle. That free space however is not considered adequate enough to protect the water supply. So it is termed as an air break.

The "hand" method is a great illustration, but not a code.


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## plumbdrum

plbgbiz said:


> We got a bit of hair splitting going on here. :laughing: Like Justme, I was taught the "hand passing through" method. It was simply to drive home the difference between an air gap and air break to a bunch of cubs that didn't know anything. But like in all areas of life, there are nuances, exceptions, and intent. ***** IPC 2015 Chapter 2 - Definitions AIR GAP (Water Distribution System). The unobstructed vertical distance through the free atmosphere between the lowest opening from any pipe or faucet supplying water to a tank, plumbing fixture, or other device and the flood level rim of the receptacle. IPC 2012 Commentary ...Many manufacturers have developed air gap fittings that provide a rigid connection to the drainage system while maintaining the minimum level of protection from contamination ***** Nowhere does the code state that an object (such as a hand) must be able to pass between the drain outlet and the receptacle. Only that there must be enough free air space to adequately protect the water supply from contamination. It is the standard of protection that has to be met, not a single perception of Webster's definition of a certain word (gap). An manufactured air gap connected to the RPZ meets the ASTM A112.1.3 standard not because it is manufactured, but because it meets the ASTM standard. It is "approved" and can be called an "air gap" is because the amount of the free space in proportion to the amount of material making the connection. That space is sufficient to protect the water supply. Additionally, there are not approved air gap fittings for food prep drainage. There would be a greater risk of bacterial creep. On an RPZ, that risk is considered too low to matter. Technically, air break connections, have an air gap as well. There is a gap of free air space around the pipe where it extends into the receptacle. That free space however is not considered adequate enough to protect the water supply. So it is termed as an air break. The "hand" method is a great illustration, but not a code.


Ya what he said, lol, trying to debate and work is tough to get all my facts through . Thanks biz. It also may be a local code for him. The ole 10 different ways to skin a cat scenario.

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## justme

It is hair splitting lol, but what other inspector can I annoy without getting a red tag. The free air is considered to be within the arms on the airgap fitting and yes it is approved.


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## justme

I was busted on this by an inspector in south Texas and they made me install a pvc hub right underneath the RPZ vent. But nowhere else in Texas have they made me do this. I argued with that SOB for an hour and finally just done what he wanted so I could get back on the road.


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## plumbdrum

justme said:


> It is hair splitting lol, but what other inspector can I annoy without getting a red tag. The free air is considered to be within the arms on the airgap fitting and yes it is approved.


I'll take my aggressions out some poor other plumber now because of you. Lol

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## chonkie

So what happens if the plumber has skinny hands and the inspector has fat hands and fails you because he can't pass his hand through the gap that you can?


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## plbgbiz

Air gaps are required to not obstruct water backing up. They can obstruct body parts all day and still be compliant as long as the water has a place to go.


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## plbgbiz

In our full staff meeting this morning an apprentice was asked to explain the difference between an air gap and air break. He kinda smiled and said, "I dunno." Big mistake since I know he should know this basic thing at this stage.

He spent the first 20 minutes of the plumbers' meeting at the white board drawing various indirect waste scenarios for the rest of us to judge. :laughing:


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## supakingDFW

plbgbiz said:


> In our full staff meeting this morning an apprentice was asked to explain the difference between an air gap and air break. He kinda smiled and said, "I dunno." Big mistake since I know he should know this basic thing at this stage.
> 
> He spent the first 20 minutes of the plumbers' meeting at the white board drawing various indirect waste scenarios for the rest of us to judge. :laughing:


I think that's great that y'all have a full staff meeting and take the opportunity to teach as well...Alot of people with a license in this trade forget that part of our job is to teach apprentices working under us. And hopefully he'll take that as a positive and start spending some time in his code book...Most companies don't take the time with apprentices and make sure they have the tools to succeed...Well done sir :thumbsup:


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## Gargalaxy

That's a good thing, now he know the difference between air gap and air break but also now he's a better painter..... :laughing:


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## Letterrip

chonkie said:


> I want to thank everyone again for providing me with info that would have taken longer to get if I just rely on my boss or other internet sources. The instructions to the rpz's weren't that helpful once I got them anyways. If we do more of them, I'll keep everything in mind from this one so I can do it right the first time.


Try to take the course to become a certified tester. It opens up a new source of income. Annual testing is required as well as initial certification of that device you just installed. It also pulls back the curtain on the mystery of the devices. They really aren't that complicated.


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## wyrickmech

Letterrip said:


> Try to take the course to become a certified tester. It opens up a new source of income. Annual testing is required as well as initial certification of that device you just installed. It also pulls back the curtain on the mystery of the devices. They really aren't that complicated.


yes that is a great idea and they will teach you the difference between a air gap and air break.


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## Gargalaxy

wyrickmech said:


> yes that is a great idea and they will teach you the difference between a air gap and air break.


Here we go again....:gunsmilie::laughing:


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## wyrickmech

Gargalaxy said:


> Here we go again....:gunsmilie::laughing:


lol


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## justme

wyrickmech said:


> yes that is a great idea and they will teach you the difference between a air gap and air break.


I have 4 plumbing license and 3 backflow certs in 3 states so yea its a good idea . Just pay attention in class to the actual definitions of the terms they're using. The purpose of an airgap on RPZ's isn't to just protect them from just sewer backup,backsiphonage and backpressure but also bacteria and the "factory airgap" doesn't do this.


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## wyrickmech

justme said:


> I have 4 plumbing license and 3 backflow certs in 3 states so yea its a good idea . Just pay attention in class to the actual definitions of the terms they're using. The purpose of an airgap on RPZ's isn't to just protect them from just sewer backup,backsiphonage and backpressure but also bacteria and the "factory airgap" doesn't do this.


 this isn't the first time I have heard this argument on bacteria. While I see your point it isn't a problem for just the back flows. Water supply's are chlorinated for bacteria which mutes the argument. If they were not there would be some valid argument to the statement. It does suck to have to test so much and I understand the 4 plumbing license but why three back flow certs? I have one and it is recognized in at least two states if not more.


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