# copper pipe sweating??



## learning099 (Feb 11, 2016)

should I wipe my copper sweat joints with a rag? I just started doing that but I heard good and bad things about it


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## wharfrat (Nov 1, 2014)

Not before soldering. After, once it has cooled.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

I like to wipe carefully (with a* DRY* rag) when solder is still barely molten. Makes it look nicer imo.


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## Johnny Canuck (Feb 24, 2015)

I use a lot of liquid flux so sometimes it runs. I'll wipe that up before soldering so the solder doesn't follow the flux where it shouldn't


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

If I get some drips of solder Ill wipe with a dry cotton rag when still hot and then apply heat till the joint wets up again , then let cool and wipe any flux away...makes for a neater appearance...


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## Johnny Canuck (Feb 24, 2015)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> If I get some drips of solder Ill wipe with a dry cotton rag when still hot and then apply heat till the joint wets up again , then let cool and wipe any flux away...makes for a neater appearance...


Not enough people worry about neat appearance, especially with copper. Hate going into a house and seeing crooked pipes and dog balls (pardon the expression) hanging off of every joint. 
Make it straight and neat.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Johns_TPS said:


> Not enough people worry about neat appearance, especially with copper. Hate going into a house and seeing crooked pipes and dog balls (pardon the expression) hanging off of every joint.
> Make it straight and neat.


and you would be surprised how many customers take silent notice of a clean and neat project...when I bring out drop cloths , broom and garbage bags..you can see there eyes light up...and the referrals to friends and relatives..its an investment not a cost of time on my part...but its my own business and I see the results..try explaining that to an employee, most dont understand..till one day they have there own business..and then only maybe...


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## jnaas2 (Dec 6, 2012)

Im old school and was taught to wipe joints with a wet rag, The reason I was told is that the old flux was acidic and if You didn't wipe it off it led to corrosion and it also makes the joint look much better. Now days I wear jersey gloves and wipe the joints with the glove as I sweat


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

jnaas2 said:


> Im old school and was taught to wipe joints with a wet rag, The reason I was told is that the old flux was acidic and if You didn't wipe it off it led to corrosion and it also makes the joint look much better. Now days I wear jersey gloves and wipe the joints with the glove as I sweat


till you wipe your face or eyes with a flux soaked glove....


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

*M*



learning099 said:


> should I wipe my copper sweat joints with a rag? I just started doing that but I heard good and bad things about it


Always wipe your solder joints with dry rag,I wipe the solder into the joint so it will fill ant holes that might be in it,then after solder has cooled enough to not wipe I take my rag and rub the copper and joint to shine it up,the hot leftover flux will make it shine like a new penny:yes::laughing:


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

Just use sharkbites, no need to worry about soldering technique.


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## leakfree (Apr 3, 2011)

I wipe when the solder firms up,not really a need to wipe it when it's still molten if you pay attention when you feed the solder into the joint you wont have a problem with it running or filling the joint,just knock the snot ball off.I do it more as a courtesy to the insulator who will be wrapping my pipe,so he doesn't get flux all over himself when he does the fittings.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Just use a pro press no more solder drips! And it's super clean.


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## 89plumbum (May 14, 2011)

Johns_TPS said:


> I use a lot of liquid flux so sometimes it runs. I'll wipe that up before soldering so the solder doesn't follow the flux where it shouldn't


What type of flux John? I used some years ago that you needed to heat the fitting first then squirt the flux in and it would do a phenomenal job on cleaning the copper up. I got some from a company I was subbing from where there guys were not even cleaning the pipe or fittings first.


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## Johnny Canuck (Feb 24, 2015)

89plumbum said:


> What type of flux John? I used some years ago that you needed to heat the fitting first then squirt the flux in and it would do a phenomenal job on cleaning the copper up. I got some from a company I was subbing from where there guys were not even cleaning the pipe or fittings first.


The one they sell here is called s-39. No heating first. Just brush it on and solder. You can see the copper clean up almost instantly. Turns black when you solder but that wipes off no problem. I've used other but forget the names.
Some swear by it others swear at it. Personally I like it.


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## dhal22 (Jul 30, 2010)

On bigger pipe and fittings I use a 3 step process. If you have a run, wipe it off and let the pipe cool ever so slightly. As soon as the solder freezes I take a flux infested rag and clean the entire fitting and pipe around it like I'm polishing a shoe. The still hot pipe will clean completely. Then I take a dry rag and polish the pipe again removing all the flux. If the cap isn't completely smooth I will heat it slightly again.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

On bigger pipe and fittings I use a 3 step process. If you have a run, wipe it off and let the pipe cool ever so slightly. As soon as the solder freezes I take a flux infested rag and clean the entire fitting and pipe around it like I'm polishing a shoe. The still hot pipe will clean completely. Then I take a dry rag and polish the pipe again removing all the flux. If the cap isn't completely smooth I will heat it slightly again.

and dont forget the turtle wax to make er shine....:laughing:
ill heat up a wiped joint to smooth er out...


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## Blackhawk (Jul 23, 2014)

I wipe every joint with a clean dry rag while the joint is still hot but after it has cooled to the point the solder has hardened. Then I quick scub each joint with a scotch-brite pad. Makes for some great looking joints that wont oxidize or turn green.


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## Johnny Canuck (Feb 24, 2015)

Blackhawk said:


> I wipe every joint with a clean dry rag while the joint is still hot but after it has cooled to the point the solder has hardened. Then I quick scub each joint with a scotch-brite pad. Makes for some great looking joints that wont oxidize or turn green.


That's a great idea. I'm gonna start doing that.


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## mccmech (Jul 6, 2011)

I will wait until the solder joint frosts, or solidifies as some others have said. Then I swab the fitting & solder joints with a little flux & wipe well with a towel. It makes the fitting shine & cleans the joints up nice. I will NOT use T-shirts, or anything of that material to wipe my joints. I find the terry cloth of towels does a fantastic job making my work look sexy as hell! Just sayin'. BTW, for you plumbers who wipe the joint while the solder is still molten, doesn't it smear the solder?


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## mccmech (Jul 6, 2011)

Just an example of what my process looks like.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

mccmech said:


> I will wait until the solder joint frosts, or solidifies as some others have said. Then I swab the fitting & solder joints with a little flux & wipe well with a towel. It makes the fitting shine & cleans the joints up nice. I will NOT use T-shirts, or anything of that material to wipe my joints. I find the terry cloth of towels does a fantastic job making my work look sexy as hell! Just sayin'. BTW, for you plumbers who wipe the joint while the solder is still molten, doesn't it smear the solder?


the only time ill wipe a molten joint is to clean up some drips, and then reheat to let the solder wet up and smooth out..then let solder solidify and wipe flux..usually with a cotton towel..


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## Johnny Canuck (Feb 24, 2015)

mccmech said:


> I will wait until the solder joint frosts, or solidifies as some others have said. Then I swab the fitting & solder joints with a little flux & wipe well with a towel. It makes the fitting shine & cleans the joints up nice. I will NOT use T-shirts, or anything of that material to wipe my joints. I find the terry cloth of towels does a fantastic job making my work look sexy as hell! Just sayin'. BTW, for you plumbers who wipe the joint while the solder is still molten, doesn't it smear the solder?


I worked for a company that encouraged cleaning the joint with flux but nobody wiped the flux off after. Within a week it every joint was green


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

I wipe excess flux, solder, let it frost, and buff shine with terry towel. No need for anything fancy, just put a little elbow grease into it. 

That being said, I'm well known for messy solder joints (unless its exposed) my might be messy but they rarely leak.


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

learning099 said:


> should I wipe my copper sweat joints with a rag? I just started doing that but I heard good and bad things about it


Usually a pipe sweats when it's warm and water is slowly being used. Like when a toilet sweats. I would like to know how soldering a joint became sweating. And yes I do wipe my joints but not to wipe off the sweat ...
LOL


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## dhal22 (Jul 30, 2010)

mccmech said:


> Just an example of what my process looks like.
> View attachment 77338


That's my type of joint, smooth cap and zero runs. Let it cool until solid then polish to a sheen.


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## srloren (Nov 19, 2014)

For those on this site that have not had formal training in soldering copper, I recommend you take a class at the local college or trade school. Until you have done that you are only guessing that you have made a good joint...many think that if it doesn't leak, it is a good joint. Not true. When you take formal training they have you cut your joints length wise into quarters. You then flatten them out on an anvil and separate the fitting from the tubeing and only then can you know that your process is the correct one. Soldering takes technique...you must learn how to distinguish when the copper is the correct temperature before applying solder BUT prior to that, you must make sure the fittings and the tubeing are cleaned...bright shinny copper and apply flux on each surface.

I worked for 20 years at a Nuke in North San Diego County and they tested you every 2 years to make sure you were qualified...you were in fact *Certified*.

As for those who recommend Shark Bites, remember you are dealing with O-Rings and rubber can dry out and rot over time. I only use Shark Bites for a temporary fix. But that's me...


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

srloren said:


> For those on this site that have not had formal training in soldering copper, I recommend you take a class at the local college or trade school. Until you have done that you are only guessing that you have made a good joint...many think that if it doesn't leak, it is a good joint. Not true. When you take formal training they have you cut your joints length wise into quarters. You then flatten them out on an anvil and separate the fitting from the tubeing and only then can you know that your process is the correct one. Soldering takes technique...you must learn how to distinguish when the copper is the correct temperature before applying solder BUT prior to that, you must make sure the fittings and the tubeing are cleaned...bright shinny copper and apply flux on each surface. I worked for 20 years at a Nuke in North San Diego County and they tested you every 2 years to make sure you were qualified...you were in fact Certified. As for those who recommend Shark Bites, remember you are dealing with O-Rings and rubber can dry out and rot over time. I only use Shark Bites for a temporary fix. But that's me...


 My sharkbites comment was meant to be a joke.


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## srloren (Nov 19, 2014)

plumbdrum said:


> My sharkbites comment was meant to be a joke.


I am embarassed... of course you meant it as a joke. I did not mean to offend or demean you. I know you are one of the good guys on this site. Please forgive me.


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

srloren said:


> I am embarassed... of course you meant it as a joke. I did not mean to offend or demean you. I know you are one of the good guys on this site. Please forgive me.


No worries, but I have used them for temp caps


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Just an fyi.....the "rubber" in sharkbites and propress is actually EDPM.....same stuff in gaskets and seals to include my 5000 psi jetter.


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## Fatpat (Nov 1, 2015)

1. Square cut
2. Reem pipe (extremely important)
3. Sand Pipe / fittings
4. Flux pipe / fittings
5. Heat pipe, then fitting 
6. Apply solder 
7. After the fitting cools, wipe with a dry clean rag.
8. Remember One solder joint at a time 

I've soldered 1/2" - 6" pipe
And brazed 1/2" - 10" pipe

Practice makes perfect


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

gear junkie said:


> Just an fyi.....the "rubber" in sharkbites and propress is actually EDPM.....same stuff in gaskets and seals to include my 5000 psi jetter.


Yup.


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> gear junkie said:
> 
> 
> > Just an fyi.....the "rubber" in sharkbites and propress is actually EDPM.....same stuff in gaskets and seals to include my 5000 psi jetter.
> ...



Same stuff as terminator valves use for gaskets? Also, the jetter can be disassembled and rebuilt.


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## srloren (Nov 19, 2014)

gear junkie said:


> Just an fyi.....the "rubber" in sharkbites and propress is actually EDPM.....same stuff in gaskets and seals to include my 5000 psi jetter.


Thanks, just learned about the difference in rubber and EDPM. Great stuff. So actually the O-Rings are not threatened by weather, many chemicals and the like. I guess I just prefer a soldered joint to Shark Bites...for underground and in the wall and all applications that don't have access problems..


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

srloren said:


> Thanks, just learned about the difference in rubber and EDPM. Great stuff. So actually the O-Rings are not threatened by weather, many chemicals and the like. I guess I just prefer a soldered joint to Shark Bites...for underground and in the wall and all applications that don't have access problems..


Here here,I second that:yes:


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## Cal (Jun 17, 2008)

For years used dry rag method. Then another old timer showed me how it looked using a wet rag that had been soaked in dawn dish soap. Wow ! Much better . So what I will do is take a new cloth before turning off the water and run it under a sink with some dawn in it then ring it out several times so that it's not dripping water , just wet . Cleans up the joints real well. Also keeps the flux at bay for a while on rag so I can use it on my hands . 

Please sand your pipe and fittings ! Think about putting paint on a wall, you got to sand/ scratch it up some to get a good adhesion. I use simple Nokorode flux. Not a lot of acidity and cleans up nice after providing a great joint . 

My .02


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

Cal said:


> For years used dry rag method. Then another old timer showed me how it looked using a wet rag that had been soaked in dawn dish soap. Wow ! Much better . So what I will do is take a new cloth before turning off the water and run it under a sink with some dawn in it then ring it out several times so that it's not dripping water , just wet . Cleans up the joints real well. Also keeps the flux at bay for a while on rag so I can use it on my hands .
> 
> Please sand your pipe and fittings ! Think about putting paint on a wall, you got to sand/ scratch it up some to get a good adhesion. I use simple Nokorode flux. Not a lot of acidity and cleans up nice after providing a great joint .
> 
> My .02


I used to use nokorode until they took all lead out of solder,valves,and fittings,now I get better results using the tempering solder


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## BOBBYTUCSON (Feb 8, 2013)

i use a spray bottle of water and a fitting brush to shine up my joints


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## BOBBYTUCSON (Feb 8, 2013)

sparky said:


> I used to use nokorode until they took all lead out of solder,valves,and fittings,now I get better results using the tempering solder


whats tempering solder ? like tinning flux ?


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

BOBBYTUCSON said:


> whats tempering solder ? like tinning flux ?


Yes exactly,when I wrote that I could not think of tinning flux but that is what I meant,I had a brain fart at that time:laughing::laughing::yes:


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## 89plumbum (May 14, 2011)

sparky said:


> BOBBYTUCSON said:
> 
> 
> > whats tempering solder ? like tinning flux ?
> ...


Yeah, our company policy is nokorode pre-tinning flux and silvabrite solder. 

I'll have to try the dawn soap trick Cal.


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## srloren (Nov 19, 2014)

sparky said:


> Yes exactly,when I wrote that I could not think of tinning flux but that is what I meant,I had a brain fart at that time:laughing::laughing::yes:


Having difficulty visualizing a brain that farts...:no:


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

srloren said:


> Having difficulty visualizing a brain that farts...:no:


here is a deer farting..lol


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## BOBBYTUCSON (Feb 8, 2013)

sparky said:


> Yes exactly,when I wrote that I could not think of tinning flux but that is what I meant,I had a brain fart at that time:laughing::laughing::yes:


lmao, i asked my supplier today about it before i got back on the forums tonight and saw your reply.lol, i was determined to get my hands on that ****


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## SaraMark (Mar 4, 2016)

I use a lot of liquid flux so sometimes it runs.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

SaraMark said:


> I use a lot of liquid flux so sometimes it runs.


Just so ya know, they'll have you runnin for the door if you don't post an intro....lolz

ASK ME HOW I KNOW


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Always clean your pipes after soldering regardless of the type of flux. I always wiped stuff down at least a little, then I saw one of our neatest plumbers solder about a foot of pipe with a couple elbows and a supply valve, a week later I went back and IT WAS JADE GREEN. I was flabbergasted. Now I always use a wet rag and wipe well. I didn't even have the heart to tell the guy because he tries sooo hard to be neat and tidy. His van is immaculate even though it's like 10 years old.

I know some guys use the solder to wipe off the hanging dingle berries while it is hot, others use a dry rag. I keep a wire wheel for my drill in my bag, it finds lots of use for many things including cleaning joints I have soldered. One of my buddies likes to the say the customer doesn't know if it's done right but they know if it looks good. Cleanliness is next to godliness.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

skoronesa said:


> Always clean your pipes after soldering regardless of the type of flux. I always wiped stuff down at least a little, then I saw one of our neatest plumbers solder about a foot of pipe with a couple elbows and a supply valve, a week later I went back and IT WAS JADE GREEN. I was flabbergasted. Now I always use a wet rag and wipe well. I didn't even have the heart to tell the guy because he tries sooo hard to be neat and tidy. His van is immaculate even though it's like 10 years old.
> 
> I know some guys use the solder to wipe off the hanging dingle berries while it is hot, others use a dry rag. I keep a wire wheel for my drill in my bag, it finds lots of use for many things including cleaning joints I have soldered. One of my buddies likes to the say the customer doesn't know if it's done right but they know if it looks good. Cleanliness is next to godliness.


I worked with a guy from New Jersey a few yrs ago and he used his bare skin fingers to wipe solder joints,bear in mind all he would do is take his finger and knock the drop off the bottom of the joint and that was it,but he used his finger every time


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## Magoo (Feb 23, 2016)

Soldering correctly is an art. You most definitely need to wipe the joints to remove excess flux which left unwiped will create those green joints years later. Corrosion...Wet rag cleans better than a dry one! 
I prefer Nokerode and Sterling Solder. 
As for Sharkbites...ahahaha. Only temperary!


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Yeah, a lot of our guys do real nice piping. A couple of them do that bare finger wipe, one guy seems to like the pain. 

I just bought two of the bernzomatic/worthington 5' extension hoses and a bulk adapter. This way I don't need the tank right on the handle and I can just run off a 20lb tank if I have a lot to do. I currently have the tx-504 turbotorch, I want to get either just a 503 tip or the tx-500 kit which comes with both so I have an extra torch.


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## titaniumplumbr (Jun 11, 2014)

I always wipe my solder joints after I'm done ... I also finish by washing the pipe and fittings with soapy water to remove the flux


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

titaniumplumbr said:


> I always wipe my solder joints after I'm done ... I also finish by washing the pipe and fittings with soapy water to remove the flux


I'm sure that's a good way,but any company I've ever worked for would not give you enough time to wash the pipe,all we had time to do was wipe it down with a dry rag and keep on truckin


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

sparky said:


> I'm sure that's a good way,but any company I've ever worked for would not give you enough time to wash the pipe,all we had time to do was wipe it down with a dry rag and keep on truckin


When you work for yourself, its your own reputation on the line, so a little extra TLC on each job goes along way to getting the next one...its almost like free advertisement to anyone looking at your work..


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## mccmech (Jul 6, 2011)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> When you work for yourself, its your own reputation on the line, so a little extra TLC on each job goes along way to getting the next one...its almost like free advertisement to anyone looking at your work..


Truth! Ya do a great job & 2 or 3 people hear. Do a chit job, and rest assured that 10 are hearing about that.


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