# Bottom entry John Woods



## DIZ (Nov 17, 2010)

Bartle & gibson (one of my local wholesalers) stuck me with a bottom entry hot water tank today. I imagine this is like a doctor delivering a baby with two heads, shocking and disappointing. Anyone else had this nasty surprise?


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## Scott K (Oct 12, 2008)

DIZ said:


> Bartle & gibson (one of my local wholesalers) stuck me with a bottom entry hot water tank today. I imagine this is like a doctor delivering a baby with two heads, shocking and disappointing. Anyone else had this nasty surprise?


When you say bottom entry, I'm assuming you mean a HWT where the cold enters at a tapping near the bottom of the tank but the hot still exits out the top? If this is the case, sure, not as nice for RE & RE's and more costly (a bit more Copper) but one less failure point (no dip tube).


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## DIZ (Nov 17, 2010)

Thats exactly what I am referring to. For a re re, prob cost an extra 20 min labour and 15 material. Not having a 3/4 FIP 90 adds 30 min. or so of driving back to bartles. Only on a friday.


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## Scott K (Oct 12, 2008)

Well I'd ask B & G what the deal is of course, but if you have the option to select either type of tank you could always upsell them on the bottom entry tank for the reason of one extra lack of failure point (no dip tube). It might be a worthwhile upgrade to some.


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## DIZ (Nov 17, 2010)

isnt the new copper snorkel on the side of the tank now essentially a dip tube, albeit an exterior on, and thus a failure point? A lot of exposed vertical unstrapped copper. This was water heater for a "friend" and a cash rate was given. I lose a little but I will always ask now if it's a bottom entry when ordering.


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## grandpa (Jul 13, 2008)

DIZ said:


> isnt the new copper snorkel on the side of the tank now essentially a dip tube, albeit an exterior on, and thus a failure point? A lot of exposed vertical unstrapped copper. This was water heater for a "friend" and a cash rate was given. I lose a little but I will always ask now if it's a bottom entry when ordering.


A copper pipe would hardly be as failure prone as a drop-in plastic tube.

The side entry tanks are usually either for a combined hot water heating application , in which case it is probably 65000 BTU, OR it is a mobile home water heater marked ONLY FOR MOBILE HOME. Your supplier should not be giving you one of these unless you specifically asked for it. It should NOT come minus a t/p. I don't think that is legal.


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## DIZ (Nov 17, 2010)

grandpa said:


> A copper pipe would hardly be as failure prone as a drop-in plastic tube.
> 
> The side entry tanks are usually either for a combined hot water heating application , in which case it is probably 65000 BTU, OR it is a mobile home water heater marked ONLY FOR MOBILE HOME. Your supplier should not be giving you one of these unless you specifically asked for it. It should NOT come minus a t/p. I don't think that is legal.


They say it's all they have for John woods (it was a warranty for a leaking tank) Comes with T/P. I agree it wouldnt be "as" prone to failure as a plastic dip tube, but it does add a failure point nonetheless.


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

I hate those bottom feed tanks.....


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## xyleman (Feb 2, 2011)

the bottom feeds are a pain in the butt, john wood changed them due to the efficiency rating apparently not efficient enough,i switched too the john wood comfort aprox. 1" larger in diameter but still top feed or i just use the bradford.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

what kinda vacuum relief valve did you use?


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

GREENPLUM said:


> what kinda vacuum relief valve did you use?


 


Yup, all bottom-fed W/H's need a vacuum-relief valve.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

Tommy plumber said:


> Yup, all bottom-fed W/H's need a vacuum-relief valve.


 
i was curious to what brand he used


i use watts 36


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

*John woods*

You guys are making me reminince.

In my early days in this trade John Wood galvanized tanks were the king. 

Vertical and horizontal both used a fitting 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 . This was a 3/4 union fitting with a 1/2 tapping in the bottom. That was where the 1/2 copper dip tube was fitted. We could not forget the hole about 3" from the top {break the siphon hole} On the verticle usually they were connected to a gas coil, a water back in the kitchen range or a hand in the coal fired boiler. The horizontals were placed on a stand made from pipe with 2 cast iron cradles to hold the tank. Rods were used to keep the pipe legs from spreading. Many a time after install we would cover with asbestos. A lot of times the horizontals were connected to a jack stove. Piping was critical as to pitch as all circulation was by gravity. 

In those days plumbing was plumbing. At the end of the day you knew you had worked a day. Everythng was black or galvanized hand threaded. Very few small shops had the resources to have power equipment.


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## DIZ (Nov 17, 2010)

Tommy plumber said:


> Yup, all bottom-fed W/H's need a vacuum-relief valve.


All WH get a VB here.


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