# Resilient gasket and hub



## natem1986 (Dec 29, 2013)

In a commercial setting we dealt with Joining hub joints in a rough in bathroom. Resilient gaskets and lubricant was used. 

The story is we were only able to join one thus far. They are an absolute pain to work with. Are there any tools that can help? Any similar experiences?


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## plumber tim (Jul 4, 2013)

If the gaskets are cold it will make it a real pain in the a** Heating up the gaskets on the dash of the truck with the heat on works great. If all ales fails chain puller and more lube. Also what brand are you using I will only buy Tyler the others can be tougher to push together.


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## natem1986 (Dec 29, 2013)

plumber tim said:


> If the gaskets are cold it will make it a real pain in the a** Heating up the gaskets on the dash of the truck with the heat on works great. If all ales fails chain puller and more lube. Also what brand are you using I will only buy Tyler the others can be tougher to push together.


Don't believe it as Tyler but will know tomorrow. Ill try heat method and get back with results. If not ill be purchasing puller... And pain in the ass is almost an understatement !!!


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## BC73RS (Jan 25, 2014)

Does your code allow these? they are easy to work with.


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## natem1986 (Dec 29, 2013)

BC73RS said:


> Does your code allow these? they are easy to work with.


Good heads up question. The band clamps are MA approved to be used. The boss is saying the inspector for the town doesn't use those which is crazy because I've had nothing but good luck with my previous company.... IMHO it's because we're expected to charge the commercial business full days rates , --However we're just straight up fighting to get these cast iron joints together


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

natem1986 said:


> Good heads up question. The band clamps are MA approved to be used. The boss is saying the inspector for the town doesn't use those which is crazy because I've had nothing but good luck with my previous company.... IMHO it's because we're expected to charge the commercial business full days rates , --However we're just straight up fighting to get these cast iron joints together


 Use pvc and be done with it.


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## matkg (Mar 3, 2013)

Rachet straps and a friction clamp will make it easy cheaper than a puller to


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## natem1986 (Dec 29, 2013)

rjbphd said:


> Use pvc and be done with it.


PVC not allowed in commercial setting in MA. Only barber shops and salons..


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## natem1986 (Dec 29, 2013)

matkg said:


> Rachet straps and a friction clamp will make it easy cheaper than a puller to


Okay thanks for help , feel better btw


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## natem1986 (Dec 29, 2013)

matkg said:


> Rachet straps and a friction clamp will make it easy cheaper than a puller to


Sorry mistook your post as reply from plumbing rim. I have to see those products


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## natem1986 (Dec 29, 2013)

matkg said:


> Rachet straps and a friction clamp will make it easy cheaper than a puller to


Tim* , lol sorry Tim


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## matkg (Mar 3, 2013)

Friction clamps are also called riser clamps put one behind the hub on the fitting your pulling into and one on the pipe hook the ratchet strap to these and it will pull home fairly easily


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

rjbphd said:


> Use pvc and be done with it.


Ha Ha, not in Ma

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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

natem1986 said:


> PVC not allowed in commercial setting in MA. Only barber shops and salons..


To a point of dilution and 6" above flood level and you need to label the PVC

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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

natem1986 said:


> Good heads up question. The band clamps are MA approved to be used. The boss is saying the inspector for the town doesn't use those which is crazy because I've had nothing but good luck with my previous company.... IMHO it's because we're expected to charge the commercial business full days rates , --However we're just straight up fighting to get these cast iron joints together[/QUOTE
> 
> After your first 3 joints being leaded, you most certainly can use no hub, at one time you used to have to hang the no hub underground but if you use 4 band clamps you don't have to hang the pipe.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

Get a lead bar and tap tap tap.


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## natem1986 (Dec 29, 2013)

matkg said:


> Friction clamps are also called riser clamps put one behind the hub on the fitting your pulling into and one on the pipe hook the ratchet strap to these and it will pull home fairly easily


Thanks just picked some frictions up, I'll let you know how it goes


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## natem1986 (Dec 29, 2013)

Most certainly can and that's what I'm on board with ! After first three for no hub I see, since we're doing hub I've been told to lead only first one does that suffice? -- I've buried no hub four band before in cambridge and inspector eventually agreed on it


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

natem1986 said:


> Most certainly can and that's what I'm on board with ! After first three for no hub I see, since we're doing hub I've been told to lead only first one does that suffice? -- I've buried no hub four band before in cambridge and inspector eventually agreed on it


Look in your diagrams in the back of your book, what ever configuration you use, those joints have to be leaded, after that no hub is approved. Urinal wastes still need lead and oakum until it gets to a point of dilution .

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## natem1986 (Dec 29, 2013)

Put gaskets in hot water and used , helped tremendously however still a pain in the butt. The clamp straps were never used but ill hold as option. I don't want to to work with resilient gaskets ever again and encourage all plumbers to not touch unless there is a chain puller present.


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

There is several styles of gaskets some are real *******s to get together. The payoff is they hold the fitting better. Leaded joints are nice but not necessary. If you look I do believe no hub is approved in a lot of areas for underground. Husky 4000 heavy duty bands are rated for underground. PVC is most likely the best way to go if code will allow. The common practice here is PVC underground and no hub cast above the plastic doesn't deteriorate. Like mentioned lead bar or cast puller is the proper tools for the installing of hub and spigot. Prolly the easiest way to finish your project.


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## bct p&h (Jan 19, 2013)

natem1986 said:


> PVC not allowed in commercial setting in MA. Only barber shops and salons..


Pvc is also approved on soda stations and bar drains to a point of dilution and 6" above flood level.

As far as not being able to get the push gaskets together, take an angle grinder to the end of the pipe and knock the lip off from when you cut it.
Also, don't use the gaskets with the metal reinforcing ring in them. You will fight with those all day.
You can use no hub underground but ever inspector I've dealt with either wants stainless hangers or a compaction test done on the soil. I've run miles of pipe underground with the gaskets and once you get the hang of it, it's not all that bad. For some reason 3" always seems to be harder to push together than 2" 4" and 6"


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

bct p&h said:


> Pvc is also approved on soda stations and bar drains to a point of dilution and 6" above flood level. As far as not being able to get the push gaskets together, take an angle grinder to the end of the pipe and knock the lip off from when you cut it. Also, don't use the gaskets with the metal reinforcing ring in them. You will fight with those all day. You can use no hub underground but ever inspector I've dealt with either wants stainless hangers or a compaction test done on the soil. I've run miles of pipe underground with the gaskets and once you get the hang of it, it's not all that bad. For some reason 3" always seems to be harder to push together than 2" 4" and 6"


In Ma, which I think your from? No-hub no longer needs to be hung underground, that's directly from the board

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## MAC (Aug 19, 2008)

Get some duck butter put on end of pipe and on gasket then you can get together a lot easier


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

MAC said:


> Get some duck butter put on end of pipe and on gasket then you can get together a lot easier


I'm sure he did that. Certain gaskets suck. And are impossible to push without roid strength


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## natem1986 (Dec 29, 2013)

bct p&h said:


> Pvc is also approved on soda stations and bar drains to a point of dilution and 6" above flood level.
> 
> As far as not being able to get the push gaskets together, take an angle grinder to the end of the pipe and knock the lip off from when you cut it.
> Also, don't use the gaskets with the metal reinforcing ring in them. You will fight with those all day.
> You can use no hub underground but ever inspector I've dealt with either wants stainless hangers or a compaction test done on the soil. I've run miles of pipe underground with the gaskets and once you get the hang of it, it's not all that bad. For some reason 3" always seems to be harder to push together than 2" 4" and 6"


Point of dilution, okay what do you mean by this in technical terms?

Knock lip with grinder... I dig that idea , the pipe popped in if it's flush I learned. 

Metal ring? Damn don't even want to knowROFL


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## natem1986 (Dec 29, 2013)

Flyout95 said:


> I'm sure he did that. Certain gaskets suck. And are impossible to push without roid strength


Seriously, roid strength


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## natem1986 (Dec 29, 2013)

wyrickmech said:


> There is several styles of gaskets some are real *******s to get together. The payoff is they hold the fitting better. Leaded joints are nice but not necessary. If you look I do believe no hub is approved in a lot of areas for underground. Husky 4000 heavy duty bands are rated for underground. PVC is most likely the best way to go if code will allow. The common practice here is PVC underground and no hub cast above the plastic doesn't deteriorate. Like mentioned lead bar or cast puller is the proper tools for the installing of hub and spigot. Prolly the easiest way to finish your project.


Good response. But if you read my posts in thread you learn no PVC in commercial. Which means we milk the clock with gaskets and hub from the commercial business. Fighting is no fun though and as workers in field we like to feel progress . that's why my next purchase is cast puller.


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

natem1986 said:


> Good response. But if you read my posts in thread you learn no PVC in commercial. Which means we milk the clock with gaskets and hub from the commercial business. Fighting is no fun though and as workers in field we like to feel progress . that's why my next purchase is cast puller.


 a lot of the time we have found a lead bar works best. I wish I had pictures of one but I don't. I have ordered the lead to make a new one so plumb biz can see one. The sudden shock of the weight usually will be enough to set the fitting.


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## natem1986 (Dec 29, 2013)

wyrickmech said:


> a lot of the time we have found a lead bar works best. I wish I had pictures of one but I don't. I have ordered the lead to make a new one so plumb biz can see one. The sudden shock of the weight usually will be enough to set the fitting.


That's a tool I'd like to see , when the fittings were hit with a sledge the gasket was pulled down because of too much force . The hits had to be controlled . I imagine the lead could offer that solution.


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

natem1986 said:


> Point of dilution, okay what do you mean by this in technical terms? Knock lip with grinder... I dig that idea , the pipe popped in if it's flush I learned. Metal ring? Damn don't even want to knowROFL


Say your doing a urinal waste tied into a 4" horizontal service weight drain, the 2" branch has to be leaded the 4" can be gaskets.

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## plumber tim (Jul 4, 2013)

Plumbdrum I have plumbed urinals with no lead joints once so ever here in Ma. The way I do it is take the lav drain off just above the urinal drain waste arm over to the lav. Now it has been diluted so no lead joints are required. I know it can not always be done that way but when it is possible that is the way I do it.


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

natem1986 said:


> Good response. But if you read my posts in thread you learn no PVC in commercial. Which means we milk the clock with gaskets and hub from the commercial business. Fighting is no fun though and as workers in field we like to feel progress . that's why my next purchase is cast puller.



I just got the ridgid 228. Should use it next week.


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

plumber tim said:


> Plumbdrum I have plumbed urinals with no lead joints once so ever here in Ma. The way I do it is take the lav drain off just above the urinal drain waste arm over to the lav. Now it has been diluted so no lead joints are required. I know it can not always be done that way but when it is possible that is the way I do it.


The question was what is the point of dilution, I gave him an example of one. The install you speak of would also be correct but it doesn't always lay out like that

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## natem1986 (Dec 29, 2013)

plumbdrum said:


> Say your doing a urinal waste tied into a 4" horizontal service weight drain, the 2" branch has to be leaded the 4" can be gaskets.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


Okay gotchya , thank you , always trust the input


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## natem1986 (Dec 29, 2013)

Flyout95 said:


> I just got the ridgid 228. Should use it next week.


Take a picture and elaborate


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

natem1986 said:


> Take a picture and elaborate



Search threads started by me. "Cast Iron Pullers"


Pics are in there.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Flyout95 said:


> Search threads started by me. "Cast Iron Pullers"
> 
> Pics are in there.


Did look at the video.. different from what I use had years ago..


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

rjbphd said:


> Did look at the video.. different from what I use had years ago..


Yeah, I used it once. But the price was worth the risk.


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

bct p&h said:


> Pvc is also approved on soda stations and bar drains to a point of dilution and 6" above flood level. As far as not being able to get the push gaskets together, take an angle grinder to the end of the pipe and knock the lip off from when you cut it. Also, don't use the gaskets with the metal reinforcing ring in them. You will fight with those all day. You can use no hub underground but ever inspector I've dealt with either wants stainless hangers or a compaction test done on the soil. I've run miles of pipe underground with the gaskets and once you get the hang of it, it's not all that bad. For some reason 3" always seems to be harder to push together than 2" 4" and 6"


Pvc is also approved on soda stations and bar drains to a point of dilution and 6" above flood level.

It's also supposed to be labeled.

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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

wyrickmech said:


> a lot of the time we have found a lead bar works best. I wish I had pictures of one but I don't. I have ordered the lead to make a new one so plumb biz can see one. The sudden shock of the weight usually will be enough to set the fitting.


Lead Bar?? You guys talking about a lead mallet?

Directions to make, a piece 3" cast iron pipe 10" long. Or there abouts -- put vertically on ground in sand insert 1" piece of pipe, fill cast iron with molten lead let -- cool [might take awhile], when cool lay on side crack cast iron. Lead mallet remains hit on the lug on fitting. Still use lube on the joints. 
*The lead stays hot for awhile be alert and careful before cracking do not quench in water --- Boom*


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

PLUMBER_BILL said:


> Lead Bar?? You guys talking about a lead mallet? Directions to make, a piece 3" cast iron pipe 10" long. Or there abouts -- put vertically on ground in sand insert 1" piece of pipe, fill cast iron with molten lead let -- cool [might take awhile], when cool lay on side crack cast iron. Lead mallet remains hit on the lug on fitting. Still use lube on the joints. The lead stays hot for awhile be alert and careful before cracking do not quench in water --- Boom


Or just a hunk of lead.


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

PLUMBER_BILL said:


> Lead Bar?? You guys talking about a lead mallet? Directions to make, a piece 3" cast iron pipe 10" long. Or there abouts -- put vertically on ground in sand insert 1" piece of pipe, fill cast iron with molten lead let -- cool [might take awhile], when cool lay on side crack cast iron. Lead mallet remains hit on the lug on fitting. Still use lube on the joints. The lead stays hot for awhile be alert and careful before cracking do not quench in water --- Boom


when my lead shipment gets here I will take pictures


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