# Sch 10 stainless steel (316) to copper pipe



## Lou Beisel (May 10, 2017)

Will di-electric unions be needed between these materials. The joints will be ProPress.
Domestic water piping system. Plans call for stainless steel for sizes 3" and up, and copper for smaller sizes.
Will I need di-electric unions where the smaller branches connect to the large mains?


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

You only need to use dielectric unions when it's concealed in the wall.


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## Lou Beisel (May 10, 2017)

I do not see how the location of the joints will have any impact on the likelihood of galvanic action occurring.


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## indyjim (Apr 29, 2017)

With 316 stainless direct threads should be gtg. With lower grade stainless I would be more cautious. 
Posting an intro will keep folks from breaking your balls here. 


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

indyjim said:


> With 316 stainless direct threads should be gtg. With lower grade stainless I would be more cautious.
> *Posting an intro will keep folks from breaking your balls here.
> *
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 








Like he said, posting an introduction might ease the hazing......:laughing:


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## Fatpat (Nov 1, 2015)

Lou Beisel said:


> I do not see how the location of the joints will have any impact on the likelihood of galvanic action occurring.



If it is hidden in the wall, then no one will see the corrosion. Problem solved.


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

Butt them up and braze with 45% silver


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## indyjim (Apr 29, 2017)

rwh said:


> Butt them up and braze with 45% silver




I was thinking more like a groover and vic couplings. 


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

Just use dielectric nipples between the main and the branch valve.


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## justme (Jul 4, 2012)

If you use dielectric unions between a hi-grade stainless pipe and copper the union itself will cause galvanic corrosion.


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