# Your experience or thoughts on the General Wire JM-1000 mini jetter



## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Since not a lot of info is circulating I revive the topic again. I'm about to pull the trigger on one, the purpose for me would be to upsell and clean kitchen lines from grease once I've unclogged it. The issue is that will it go through several 1 1/2" vent 90s it's a real plague here, even legit plumbers illegally install these everywhere. 

Does it really clean or stripes the grease????

Second will it cut though ice? That's my second reason why I would buy it for frozen kitchen drains. With record cold last year I missed out on 20+ calls or so. I did make myself a contraption to clear ice and was only able to test it out a little. The jetter would look more professional too.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

It's really hard to get stuff from the states when these are not common like mini jetter for example. Most sellers will not ship to Canada so I'm very limited. I clear all my kitchen lines with the 3800 with 5/16" cable however this week I couldn't get it clear enough to stop gurgling at the floor drain below. After 2 hours I found a clean out and was able to use my 3/8 cable with a spade with 2 passes very slow. Maybe the jetter would of been a good solution if I wouldn't of found a C/O?

I can get a good deal on a new JM-1000-B (50' hoses) 1150$CAD taxes included. The other issue I would always to have to bring it inside during the winter(freeze and break), and bring it onboard if I get a kitchen call.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

All good questions. I’ve been on the fence about one for sometime. I believe it will be strong enough to remove grease and soft sludge, but seriously doubt that it will remove the rock hard buildup. 

I’ve looked over the display at my supply house. Without breaking it down and looking at the pump and motor, it looks like decent quality. I don’t really see anyway of winterizing it, but my best guess to try is to figure out a way to blow it out with an air compressor.

My supply house cost is about the same give or take. Not really sure on USD/CD rate at the moment. I can buy one for about $1k.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

I'm chatting with a guy on the ridgid forum and he's suggesting another more powerful brand. Looks very promising and one model can be used with hot water! I would buy the arblue pressure washer and buy a general hose and spring lead and mate the 2.


I'm waiting for the manufacturer to reply to me to see if I can buy one in Canada. I've also seen somewhere to winterize is to fill RV antifreeze in a bucket and run it until it's full.

For my gas pressure washer I buy a special can to winterize it. Maybe buy a few cans while serving customers, it would be an easy way to keep it in the van.

https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-Pressure-Washer-Saver/dp/B0012VY200



Arblue
AR630 : https://arblueclean.com/product/ar-b...essure-washer/


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## dhal22 (Jul 30, 2010)

A jetter is a tool. This is a specialty tool. The more tools and speciality tools you have the more jobs you can do. A cart jetter would be sweet for restaurants.


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

My area has old cast iron and I’ve heard on this forum you can do more harm than good jetting it. 
I went to one the other day where my customers girlfriend couldn’t wait for me and had another plumber out and try and clear a kitchen line. He ran 75 feet with a spring on the front and couldn’t clear it, actually made it worse with black muck coming out the shower. He recommended coming back and using a jetter.
I went there and cleared it at about 20 feet with the Redwood bend on the end of my cable.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

I read that too it sometimes clears too much crud it clogs the 4" main. I agree a jetter is not the proper tool to unclog a line, a cable first to open it then if the line needs it pressure clean.

I've been able to clear all my kitchen lines up to date other than the ones my cable couldn't navigate because of hacked plumbing. On 2 occasions the grease would just close up around the cable and took almost 2 hours of back and forth to get it open.



The question is once open to upsell to pressure clean it because I fear to be called back a week later it's clogged again and obliged to unclog their greasy line for FREE every month after that. Maybe to put in writing no grantees for drain unclogging.

Then winter freeze up is 2 months away. I built myself a thawing device but only was able to test it once or twice outside. It worked a little bit but not sure if it'll work in real life situations so I just don't want to try kitchen lines for free like last year. I did 3 of them for free and spent 2-3 hours on each wasting my time, materials and dragging all the gear in freezing snow and worst of all 2 of them they literally had put a whole bottle of SULFURIC ACID and i'st a serious hazard.

So no more free services if I can help it.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Maybe general built their jetter weak to prevent too much cleaning power and creating problems further down the line like Debo's picture? Or they made it weaker so it wouldn't trip breakers?


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## Toli (Nov 7, 2015)

My opinion- save your money on that toy and wait until you can buy or build your a real machine. 4-5 gpm @ 3500-4000 psi is a good place to start, IMO.


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## fixitright (Jan 5, 2012)

Toli said:


> My opinion- save your money on that toy and wait until you can buy or build your a real machine. 4-5 gpm @ 3500-4000 psi is a good place to start, IMO.


Lots of places you can't use a gas powered Jetter. The little General may be handy. The Mytana models are to big and heavy.

There have been a few jobs I would/could have used a small jetter but they were few and far in between.


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## Toli (Nov 7, 2015)

fixitright said:


> Lots of places you can't use a gas powered Jetter. The little General may be handy. The Mytana models are to big and heavy.
> 
> 
> 
> There have been a few jobs I would/could have used a small jetter but they were few and far in between.




That’s what remote reels and jumper hose is for. I jetted that way for many years. If I could, I’d leave the Jetter in the truck and open the doors.


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## abcreech (Oct 18, 2016)

I have had great success w/ the JM -1000 jetter, I service restaurants and under counter 2" drains from soda machines at front lines, washing out drains filled w/ breading flour ( ChickFila, KFC, ) etc... All equipment has limitations, this one is neat , clean and no BIG messes! Paid for itself first call !!


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## Fatpat (Nov 1, 2015)

For residential kitchen lines full grease it works like a charm, great upsale and the customers are always impressed with the machine.

I’ve pulled out huge chucks of rock hard grease, 
Enough to fill a 5 gallon bucket with hard grease.

70 year old 2” Cast Iron & Galvanized lines are cleaned and warranted!


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

I'm also taking a look at the AR630TSS-HOT. It pulls 19 amps and I'm really not sure what breakers people usually have in their kitchen. Are there any 20 amp circuit that are usually found in houses? Do you know if lowering the pressure adjustment will allow to pull 15 amps just in case?

https://arblueclean.com/product/ar-blue-clean-ar630-hot-tss-industrial-pressure-washer/


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

After checking it out some more the AR630TSS-HOT I think would cut though ice very easily however at 62 pounds that's freaking heavy to haul into a kitchen. Then the the 19 amps might be a problem on old circuit breakers. Just for comparison purposes the drum of the k-3800 with my 90' x 1/2" cable is 59 pounds

Back to looking at the JM-1000


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

@Fatpat Can you take a picture of the nozzles and spring lead and are the threads 1/4NPT?


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## Fatpat (Nov 1, 2015)

Tango said:


> @Fatpat Can you take a picture of the nozzles and spring lead and are the threads 1/4NPT?


I’ll take a picture of the nozzles tomorrow for you.

Yes they are 1/4” Npt


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## dhal22 (Jul 30, 2010)

We run 1/2", 1/4" and 1/8"(rarely) hose on our 18gpm/4000psi jetter. The 1/8" hose is great for ptraps. And yes, you can go downstream in a clogged pipe, just takes some skills.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Fatpat said:


> I’ll take a picture of the nozzles tomorrow for you.
> 
> Yes they are 1/4” Npt


They are not 1/4". They are 1/8".

I too have one and very much enjoy it. I prefer it over my k40af. It works very well and uses just the right amount of water. Usually I run the shop vac while I use it because at first you will get some water coming back at you. Lots of times I am able to just fit a 5 gallon bucket under the trap adapter. I have at times screwed on a short piece of pipe with a female adapter to bring it out to where its easier to deal with.

I wouldn't call it weak, it can certainly cut up any waste blocking a drain. But at 1500psi it won't harm the pipes. If they are already really rotted then yeah, they will probably break but I think this is actually easier on pipes than a snake.

The only thing I didnt like was the pos on/off switch. My manager got ahold of general and they sent a new one which was a different brand. All good now.

It comes with 4 nozzles, I only use one of them, it has one forward hole and three backward. None of the other stock nozzles have a forward hole. You could lower the pressure by getting a nozzle with more/bigger holes if you are worried about cutting a pipe.

All of this said you could also just get an electric pressure washer, some hose, and the nozzles all seperately. I havent looked at the prices/options of that.


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## V.A Hydro-ooter (Oct 14, 2018)

If you aren't going to use it often you might as well buy a decent electric pressure washer, nozzles and hose kit. You'll end up spending less than half the money vs. the General. I spent less than $500 on my first setup.
I used the AR Blue 383 for a few years until I realized I was upselling more kitchen lines.
Trust me, the General is weak when you compare it to the better electric jetters. It's just good enough to get the job done most of the time. The 383 has similar specs but not the neat presentation. The cheaper electric pressure washers are going to be a whole lot lighter than the 630 models.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

I decided to purchase the general this morning and placed my order. I went with this option because the AR630-SS-HOT is going to be way too heavy then I would of had to buy a lot of stuff separately, the hose, nozzles, spring lead, pulsator etc. I would of had to order from different places and what happens if it didn't work right? 1500$ or more for all that gambling? Got to remember kitchen lines here are often improperly done with vent 90s

Everything is ordered out of the country and major headaches when you have a problem and need to order things if you are lucky to even get them at all.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

skoronesa said:


> They are not 1/4". They are 1/8".


Can the general's nozzles be drilled to accommodate a custom pattern? If they are stainless it might be impossible? I saw some specialty 1/4" nozzles from another vendor. Is there a way to adapt 1/8" to 1/4" as short as possible?


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## V.A Hydro-ooter (Oct 14, 2018)

[/quote]

Can the general's nozzles be drilled to accommodate a custom pattern? If they are stainless it might be impossible? I saw some specialty 1/4" nozzles from another vendor. Is there a way to adapt 1/8" to 1/4" as short as possible?[/QUOTE]

There are a few websites where you can get nozzles custom drilled to your jetter's specs. Depending on the type of nozzle you're looking for they're not terribly expensive. I think I've paid about $40 for the cheaper nozzles. I wouldn't recommend trying to drill the nozzles they include with the jetter. They're already drilled to maximize the cleaning power of that particular unit.
I hope it works out for you. You'd be surprised how easy it is to upsell jetting. If you show them how much crud comes out on the cable and offer an extended warranty if they jet it's like taking candy from a baby. 
I like being honest with the customers so I don't upsell unless the line is excessively dirty, greasy or they've had constant clogs even after snaking. 
The next step is getting a micro camera so you can prove the difference jetting makes. That's another upsell opportunity. Sometimes I'll do the camera for free if the jetting goes relatively easy. The cameras are too expensive to repair so I'm not going to inspect every small drain I jet for free.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

There are a few websites where you can get nozzles custom drilled to your jetter's specs. Depending on the type of nozzle you're looking for they're not terribly expensive. I think I've paid about $40 for the cheaper nozzles. I wouldn't recommend trying to drill the nozzles they include with the jetter. They're already drilled to maximize the cleaning power of that particular unit.
I hope it works out for you. You'd be surprised how easy it is to upsell jetting. If you show them how much crud comes out on the cable and offer an extended warranty if they jet it's like taking candy from a baby. 
I like being honest with the customers so I don't upsell unless the line is excessively dirty, greasy or they've had constant clogs even after snaking. 
The next step is getting a micro camera so you can prove the difference jetting makes. That's another upsell opportunity. Sometimes I'll do the camera for free if the jetting goes relatively easy. The cameras are too expensive to repair so I'm not going to inspect every small drain I jet for free.[/QUOTE]


I only got 2-3 real greasy lines in the last 12 months, We'll see. Haven't been called back on any drain yet other the mainline this weekend.

Which camera do you use for 1 1/2" pipes?


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## V.A Hydro-ooter (Oct 14, 2018)

I use the Ridgid micro reel. Unless there are a crazy amount of bends it will usually go through. If it's galvanized pipe I don't even try, I'd rather lose out on making a few dollars than damaging the camera.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Tango said:


> Can the general's nozzles be drilled to accommodate a custom pattern? If they are stainless it might be impossible? I saw some specialty 1/4" nozzles from another vendor. Is there a way to adapt 1/8" to 1/4" as short as possible?





You don't have drill bits that small and as you guessed you're not going to drill stainless that thick.


1/8"x1/4" steel bushing. Heck even brass would be fine.


I really don't think you'll need a different nozzle than stock. The three backward jets really help propel it forward and I wouldn't want any less propulsion because its tough as it is especially in galvanized or cast iron.


If you are snaking from a trap/fixture than you really only want one forward jet to make a hole in the middle for the head and the three backward jets to force the waste to you instead of down the drain further to make a new clog or make the clog worse. Ideally you snake from the main towards the fixture.


I think you're putting the cart before the horse here. Get the unit first and then you'll see what you need. When I first got it the selection of nozzles it came with really bothered me too until I tried it. And boy was that first job a real test, like 15' of 1-1/2" no-hub just packed with rust, sediment, sand, and soap scum/face creams/toothpaste. 



I will say that the green slinky hose and valve they give you is garbage so you'll want a long washing machine hook up hose and a good ball valve. One of the slinky hose ends is part of the valve. You do get some nice faucet adapters for hooking up to water. I also carry a boiler drain on the end of a flex faucet supply I use for getting water.



Maybe try a 100$ jetting fee at first and see how it goes, you can always raise your rates later but I think at 100$ you will make your money back pretty quick. Also, they say you can use it for 3" lines, I haven't it tried that yet but I am pretty sure that would be a grease only affair. I am not going to blast turds with this thing and certainly not wet wipes or feminine hygiene products.


I know you live in the city so you probably have distributed gas but if you want a more powerful electric jetter and if a clothes dryer receptacle isn't available just wire a plug to the electric hot water heater. Either of those would be double 30 amp breakers. If you got a 220v model you could make a special splitter box and run one extension cord to one room and a separate cord to another so you could pickup the two hot cicuits and get 220v :devil3:


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## fixitright (Jan 5, 2012)

Draino or borrow some of my stashed lye concoction. 

Will this really be worth all the hassle?
I thought about getting an electric jetter for high rise work.
Not worth it was my deduction. 

A good man with a proper cable and some magic tricks does it all.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

fixitright said:


> Draino or borrow some of my stashed lye concoction.
> 
> Will this really be worth all the hassle?
> I thought about getting an electric jetter for high rise work.
> ...





Draino is lye, not as strong as lye flakes for sure though. Either way I have found hydrochloric acid to be the best chemical drain cleaner. Lye is really just good for hair. Most soaps are basic so lye won't break them down any further. And lye won't break down fats from food because it has already been rendered. To make things worse lye will make steel/iron rust faster but won't break down rust. Hydrochloric acid turns red rust(iron oxide 4) into black/blue rust(iron oxide 5) which will cause the large flakes/clumps of rust to break up and make a corrosion resistant layer on the inside of the pipe. Hydrochloric acid won't corrode through steel/iron so it wont make your rust problem worse.



I disagree that a cable will do it all. For starters I have had at least a handful of drains that a cable couldn't get. Maybe you don't have 100 year old cast iron and galvanized pipes.


Also cables never get something as clean as a jetter as quickly. Sure you can run hot water while you cable but even then it's not the end all be all.


Do you have a camera? Have you camera'd a line before and after cabling and seen what is still stuck in the pipe?


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## fixitright (Jan 5, 2012)

skoronesa said:


> Draino is lye, not as strong as lye flakes for sure though. Either way I have found hydrochloric acid to be the best chemical drain cleaner. Lye is really just good for hair. Most soaps are basic so lye won't break them down any further. And lye won't break down fats from food because it has already been rendered. To make things worse lye will make steel/iron rust faster but won't break down rust. Hydrochloric acid turns red rust(iron oxide 4) into black/blue rust(iron oxide 5) which will cause the large flakes/clumps of rust to break up and make a corrosion resistant layer on the inside of the pipe. Hydrochloric acid won't corrode through steel/iron so it wont make your rust problem worse.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here we go!!

The bit about Lye is just sarcasm. 
For crying out loud, get some humor in your life! 

I have four camera's and two monitors because I like toys and am considered 
in my area to be a top notch technician. 
Among many other things I've been doing this a long time.
I own a Clog Dog and camera behind it in main lines.

I used to be able to piss harder than most of the electric Jetters out there.
Getting old. 

There's all kinds of tricks to use in many situations that will get you the required 
results in any size line. It's a matter of being a life long learner.

If you use any kind of drain cleaner, be it lye or Hydrochloric acid your a hack.


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## Fatpat (Nov 1, 2015)

skoronesa said:


> Fatpat said:
> 
> 
> > I’ll take a picture of the nozzles tomorrow for you.
> ...


You are correct , 1/8” NPT
I just bought the Big Brute Jetter from Jetters North West and my Brain is a bit fried.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

fixitright said:


> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Here we go!!
> 
> The bit about Lye is just sarcasm.
> ...



I am sorry if I offended you. I havent read many of your posts on here so I wasnt sure who you are or what your experiences are. I wasnt asking if you had a camera to imply that you were deficient in any way, I just genuinely didnt know. My experience has been that most plumbers wont touch drains so I would never have guessed first off that you had that much experience with drains.


I like using my minijetter and feel it does a really good job. I only use it on 2" or smaller lines and prefer it over the k40af that was bought without my input. That thing is just terrible if for no other reason than you have to hold the paddle the whole time and hand gets real sore. For 3" and 4" pipe I carry general drum unit with 100' of 5/8".


I have had success with HCL when no other method would work a handful of times. A frozen trap in an outside wall, grout/cement in the drain from the tiler, Old galv line piped incorrectly with 3 urinals on it. Like you said, just another trick to get you by in a unique situation.


As for humor....Why do ducks have tail feathers? To cover their buttquacks!


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

skoronesa said:


> I am sorry if I offended you. I havent read many of your posts on here so I wasnt sure who you are or what your experiences are.




fixitright has left over lye from his mafia days. You know when there is a hit they need to call a cleaner. :wink:


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

skoronesa said:


> I only use it on 2" or smaller lines and prefer it over the k40af that was bought without my input. That thing is just terrible if for no other reason than you have to hold the paddle the whole time and hand gets real sore.


Did you check out my stand I made? No more soreness or back pain. Check out the whole thread.

https://www.plumbingzone.com/f23/my-k-45af-kicking-my-butt-78898/index3/#post1140178


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Tango said:


> Did you check out my stand I made? No more soreness or back pain. Check out the whole thread.
> 
> https://www.plumbingzone.com/f23/my-k-45af-kicking-my-butt-78898/index3/#post1140178





I dont have a k45, I have a k40af. I wish I had the general drain rooter ph with the bearing drive just like on my 5/8" drum unit.


it also doesnt help that the cables which came with it were garbage. The 3/8" was hollow! No braided cble in the middle of it. Both it and the 5/16" bent up on first use. They are right hand wound, most others are left hand. For some reason our parts person, whose whole job is ordering specific parts from where ever we need to get them from couldnt process that I needed ridgid brand replacement cables and ended up just ordering me general cables. So I have to run it in reverse and use the backwards paddle to make it go foward. This would be fine except it doesn't grip the cable as firmly in that direction. Also the cables kept knotting up in the drum.


I used to use a general pistol unit before it wore out and it was alright. Pretty heavy but it never had the cable flip in the drum like that. Sometimes I use this old marco pistol unit we have, it still works great after all these years.



I really wish I had been asked before the k4oaf was ordered. My manager was ordering a bunch of propress tools and some megapress stuff and got carried away. He's also never really done any snaking.


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## fixitright (Jan 5, 2012)

skoronesa said:


> I am sorry if I offended you. I havent read many of your posts on here so I wasnt sure who you are or what your experiences are. I wasnt asking if you had a camera to imply that you were deficient in any way, I just genuinely didnt know. My experience has been that most plumbers wont touch drains so I would never have guessed first off that you had that much experience with drains.
> 
> 
> I like using my minijetter and feel it does a really good job. I only use it on 2" or smaller lines and prefer it over the k40af that was bought without my input. That thing is just terrible if for no other reason than you have to hold the paddle the whole time and hand gets real sore. For 3" and 4" pipe I carry general drum unit with 100' of 5/8".
> ...


No offense taken. We joked about lye and such years back on this forum until someone got all pissy. I just joke about it now.:vs_laugh:


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## V.A Hydro-ooter (Oct 14, 2018)

Are there any updates? Have you had a chance to use it yet? 
I saw someone was selling a brand new one for $400 on Craigslist last night and reminded me of this thread.


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## fixitright (Jan 5, 2012)

V.A Hydro-ooter said:


> Are there any updates? Have you had a chance to use it yet?
> I saw someone was selling a brand new one for $400 on Craigslist last night and reminded me of this thread.


A shiny nickle says it's hot.

Crime will never end until honest folks stop buying stolen goods.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

V.A Hydro-ooter said:


> Are there any updates? Have you had a chance to use it yet?
> I saw someone was selling a brand new one for $400 on Craigslist last night and reminded me of this thread.


You talking to me? I tested it in the backyard in a custom 1 1/2" hack piping set-up because that's what I will be encountering in real life. I will post a review in the lounge eventually.


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## Venomthirst (Jun 20, 2018)

Tango did you end up buying yourself a mainline machine? I seen you mentioned something about cleaning a mainline in a earlier post in this thread..

On a side note Im personally not a huge fan of using those mini jetters (plug in) Like im sure they work but for the price tag you could get yourself a chunk of hose and a small gas pressure washer and do the same thing.. 

Tango you mentioned about shortest way to go from 1/8x 1/4 best way is use stainless bushing they last longer if price is a big deal then use galv.. we dont use quick connects just don't trust them threads are stronger of course everything wears eventually.. if you want a premium nozzle then i recommend a company called shamrock nozzles they make quality stuff.. as you know you gotta pay for it though... They custom drill nozzles specific to you machines specs.. they have potential to last hundreds of cleanings


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

V.A Hydro-ooter said:


> Are there any updates? Have you had a chance to use it yet?
> I saw someone was selling a brand new one for $400 on Craigslist last night and reminded me of this thread.





I love my mini-jet. Great for 1-1/2" to 2" lines. Does especially well cleaning rust and grease.


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## Greg755 (Sep 16, 2015)

The small elec jetters by General wire (not the one in the box) Are 1500 PSI and 1700 PSI you can use either 1/8 or 1/4 hose... I would recommend buying the heads and not trying to drill your own, kits of 4 or 5 heads are cheap... In addition you can get some lead hose that is a little stiffer (wire braid in the sheathing) in both sizes and drop head nozzles (the ones that have balls in front) from jetters north west and other places that make going though traps and 90's better...


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Venomthirst said:


> Tango did you end up buying yourself a mainline machine? I seen you mentioned something about cleaning a mainline in a earlier post in this thread..
> 
> On a side note Im personally not a huge fan of using those mini jetters (plug in) Like im sure they work but for the price tag you could get yourself a chunk of hose and a small gas pressure washer and do the same thing..
> 
> Tango you mentioned about shortest way to go from 1/8x 1/4 best way is use stainless bushing they last longer if price is a big deal then use galv.. we dont use quick connects just don't trust them threads are stronger of course everything wears eventually.. if you want a premium nozzle then i recommend a company called shamrock nozzles they make quality stuff.. as you know you gotta pay for it though... They custom drill nozzles specific to you machines specs.. they have potential to last hundreds of cleanings



I will not use any tool that comes with ascociated risks that isn't CSA/ULC or other approved stamps for the job because insurance will not cover me. Also the jetter has a pulse to help prevent the hose from getting stuck. Gas jetter and 300 feet of hose in the snow bank and into a kitchen with the door ajar, the cat escapes, Good luck to grab the cat again, haha nope!

I own a K-3800 and K-45AF and other stuff. Yes I do some 4" pipes with success but I really choose in which house I will try it.

I bought some nozzles and with all fees on top of that it ended up costing half the price of the machine.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

Check out Aqua Mole jetter nozzles. They are the best custom drilled nozzles I have ever used. They have sets with unique patterns that really help out on those tough lines. 

http://www.aquamole.com/home


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

SewerRatz said:


> Check out Aqua Mole jetter nozzles. They are the best custom drilled nozzles I have ever used. They have sets with unique patterns that really help out on those tough lines.
> 
> http://www.aquamole.com/home


I bet you those are the same nozzles as mytana, even the box is the same!


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Tango said:


> I bet you those are the same nozzles as mytana, even the box is the same!


aquamole makes the nozzles for many "manufacturers"


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

I ordered a set from Mytana and must of gotten a nozzle that's defective it turned color and rust spots started to pop up. I'm waiting for a tech at Mytana to call me back. They'll have to send another one and it they better pay all the fees to have it shipped here!


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

So tango, did you get you mini-jet yet? How do you like it?


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

skoronesa said:


> So tango, did you get you mini-jet yet? How do you like it?


Check post #38, for now I'm only testing it out.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

skoronesa said:


> Btw, how's the mini jetter serving you?
> 
> .


Only used 3 times for customers. The last use of it was a freaking joke, I had to get the 3800. So I only got paid to use it 1.5 times. A long ways to recoup the investment. I probably spent just as much as the jetter itself in accessories for it to be used according to the situation at hand.

It did serve as a secret weapon though which was the reason I bought it.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Tango said:


> Only used 3 times for customers. The last use of it was a freaking joke, I had to get the 3800. So I only got paid to use it 1.5 times. A long ways to recoup the investment. I probably spent just as much as the jetter itself in accessories for it to be used according to the situation at hand.
> 
> It did serve as a secret weapon though which was the reason I bought it.







What was the situation it couldn't get? I use mine for 1-1/2" lines that are filled with grease or rust. I get a lot of drain snaking calls so mine got paid off prety quickly even though I use it on only a small percentage of my calls.








.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

skoronesa said:


> What was the situation it couldn't get? I use mine for 1-1/2" lines that are filled with grease or rust. I get a lot of drain snaking calls so mine got paid off prety quickly even though I use it on only a small percentage of my calls.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



On 1 1/2" pipe :

One single 90 and that's all she wrote. If your'e extremely lucky and fool around another 20 minutes I might be able to go through a second 90 or something but rarely. I've been defeated by a single 90 after the san tee in a 3 story condo complex, I couldn't do the stack so I had to use the 3800 with a special lead (Like all the drains I do)

In a 2" CI I made one bend and jerked for 15 minutes to do a second bend with a spring lead. I cleaned it inch by inch for 20-30 minutes and it was still clogged. I had to pull the 3800 once again.


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## V.A Hydro-ooter (Oct 14, 2018)

How do you try to get it through? Do you loop it and push in while working the loop or do you just push and pull?
I'm surprised you can't get through with the general head with the coil in front. I've used that one to get through 1 1/2" cast iron traps. Not with 100 percent success rate but definitely over 50 percent of the time. I use it with my 1/8" and 3/16" hoses.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

V.A Hydro-ooter said:


> How do you try to get it through? Do you loop it and push in while working the loop or do you just push and pull?
> I'm surprised you can't get through with the general head with the coil in front. I've used that one to get through 1 1/2" cast iron traps. Not with 100 percent success rate but definitely over 50 percent of the time. I use it with my 1/8" and 3/16" hoses.


I tried every technique I could think of and I even tried to strengthen the hose wrapped in a pex pipe to push or jam it in.

I also tried the loop and twisting at the same time. Always the same results. I even built myself a pipe set with different types of bends. Short 90's, long 90's, 2x45 glued together. I worked the set every day for 2 weeks.

I even bought 500$ set of nozzles with a drop head. It's still misery.


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## Venomthirst (Jun 20, 2018)

Twist and throw is my method when trying to get through bends.. personally i snake 90 percent 1st anyways and kind of know where bends are...

i think your jet will be best utilized from stack c.os in basement Tango.. or use the machine how all jetters are designed to jet from downstream back wards up stream.. 

for the peashooter id stick to greasey lines that A have already been snaked and use jet for final clean or B lines that are gooey and you couldnt get it clear with snake..

I never use jetter unless I have to... usually sludge lines or really bad kitchen horizontals ill work from a cleanout below and flush down first to make sure its open the flush up to clean the overhead horizontal..

jetting plugged lines is a mess and I rathher focusnmy energy on cleaning the drain rather than cleaning the floor, walls etc


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Venomthirst said:


> Twist and throw is my method when trying to get through bends.. personally i snake 90 percent 1st anyways and kind of know where bends are...
> 
> i think your jet will be best utilized from stack c.os in basement Tango.. or use the machine how all jetters are designed to jet from downstream back wards up stream..
> 
> ...



I want to use it mostly for kitchen 1 1/2" lines once it has been unclogged. I agree it would be best upstream but C/O are hidden behind drywall and they won't accept me to cut a bunch of holes guessing where it could be. Then going upstream if I see one, it wouldn't divert and go to the trap arm.


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## Venomthirst (Jun 20, 2018)

Tango said:


> Venomthirst said:
> 
> 
> > Twist and throw is my method when trying to get through bends.. personally i snake 90 percent 1st anyways and kind of know where bends are...
> ...


Posting a video shortly its lengthy so i wont get mad if you abort half way through... but its r-2000 houses and how they are built in my area and what were dealing with in kitchen fiascos


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Mini-Jetter For the win!!

Food **** with lots of rust because of garbage no-hub cast iron drain pipe used for the kitchen sink and everything else. You know your pipe is bad when it's only used because it doesn't light on fire.

Phucking lazy maintenance guy put a gallon of sulfuric acid in and rotted out the chrome trap. Walked in the lobby door and two floors of this condo building wreaked of sulfur compounds. It was really bad, and I normally don't have a problem with chemical drain cleaners.


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## txdraindoctor (Aug 14, 2020)

Tango said:


> It's really hard to get stuff from the states when these are not common like mini jetter for example. Most sellers will not ship to Canada so I'm very limited. I clear all my kitchen lines with the 3800 with 5/16" cable however this week I couldn't get it clear enough to stop gurgling at the floor drain below. After 2 hours I found a clean out and was able to use my 3/8 cable with a spade with 2 passes very slow. Maybe the jetter would of been a good solution if I wouldn't of found a C/O?
> 
> I can get a good deal on a new JM-1000-B (50' hoses) 1150$CAD taxes included. The other issue I would always to have to bring it inside during the winter(freeze and break), and bring it onboard if I get a kitchen call.


I ended up building my own jetter out of a 4000psi pressure washer, bought my tips and hoses through Spartan. And added a booster heater. Got about $700 invested. Trying to figure out how to get more volume through it. It’s fine from Minors. Next project I’m gonna build a trailer sized w/ 250 gallon tank. Any ideas how to increase the gpms. I originally thought booster pump but I’m only picturing that boosting pressure


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

txdraindoctor said:


> I ended up building my own jetter out of a 4000psi pressure washer, bought my tips and hoses through Spartan. And added a booster heater. Got about $700 invested. Trying to figure out how to get more volume through it. It’s fine from Minors. Next project I’m gonna build a trailer sized w/ 250 gallon tank. Any ideas how to increase the gpms. I originally thought booster pump but I’m only picturing that boosting pressure


I'm no expert about jetters, All I know is my mini machine. I'm a neophyte and rarely use it, I used it as many times washing my car than drains.


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## txdraindoctor (Aug 14, 2020)

Tango said:


> @Fatpat Can you take a picture of the nozzles and spring lead and are the threads 1/4NPT?


Yes 1/4” and 3/8” depending on which size hose. Spartan makes 2 really good trap leads/ trap jumpers one for 1-1/2-2” and my favorite is the braised steel one with the big brass ball on the end it turns 2”-3” 4” trap with ease pull it up twice like a yo-yo and 3rd let it goes amd away it goes


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

txdraindoctor said:


> I ended up building my own jetter out of a 4000psi pressure washer, bought my tips and hoses through Spartan. And added a booster heater. Got about $700 invested. Trying to figure out how to get more volume through it. It’s fine from Minors. Next project I’m gonna build a trailer sized w/ 250 gallon tank. Any ideas how to increase the gpms. I originally thought booster pump but I’m only picturing that boosting pressure



The only way to get more volume at the same pressure is by using a larger pump with larger passageways. This also means you will either get less pressure for the same price or will have to pay a lot more to match the pressure of the old pump and have more flow.

When you make the passageways larger you increase their surface area exponentially, not linearly. The larger surface area you have the stronger your material must be to have your water at the same pressure. This makes the cost of manufacturing such a pump much more expensive.

Look at a pipe chart and you'll see that a 1" pipe has a much higher pressure rating than a 4" pipe even though the 4" pipe has a bit thicker wall. Remember that PSI stands for pounds per SQUARE INCH.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

skoronesa said:


> Mini-Jetter For the win!!
> 
> Food **** with lots of rust because of garbage no-hub cast iron drain pipe used for the kitchen sink and everything else. You know your pipe is bad when it's only used because it doesn't light on fire.
> 
> ...


What would you charge for a job like this???im sure you tried to cable it also,then the mini,just cur as to what you charged for this


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)




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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

sparky said:


> What would you charge for a job like this???im sure you tried to cable it also,then the mini,just cur as to what you charged for this



No, I didn't bother trying to cable it. I don't even keep a snake cable on the van for situations like this, the mini-jetter has supplanted the 5/16" and 3/8" cables I used to carry. I do carry a new 1/4"x25' cable that I cut into smaller cables and chuck in my drill for tubs/showers/lav sinks.

95$/hr plus a 65$ snaking fee, travel to the job is charged at the 95$/hr labor rate. This job was 3hrs of labor and the couple no-hub connectors. So just over 400$ plus tax I guess, I don't do billing.

That 95$/hr labor rate is the highest in our area and only one other one-man company charges that much. Thus for regular plumbing and heating service we are the most expensive if you don't have a service agreement. We also add a 5$ consumables fee to every bill.

For drain snaking we are the cheapest. Most of the other shops almost never snake drains and when they do it's 2 or 3 guys who show up and none of them has a clue. The one other guy who does know what he's doing does it reluctantly and charges a lot. Rotorooter comes from a little way away and they charge insane rates so they aren't a factor in our area.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

sparky said:


> ............im sure you tried to cable it also..........


The 2" No-hub ran at least 40' before tying into the 4" under the slab. Cabling no-hub is terrible because it's mostly rust and hard grease.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

I have a pressure washer and some cheap jetter hoses from eBay. I’ve used it only a handful of times, mostly for exterior black corrugated pipe, a few kitchen lines, but it’s application is limited being gas powered.
This last summer one of my best PMCs bought a couple houses. One was a slab, they added a bedroom, full bath in an unusable room and remodeled the kitchen. Once the cabinets were ripped out we discovered the kitchen was a 4” cast. About 12’ away it picked up the laundry. We relocated the kitchen drain and installed a 4” clean out at the laundry, however the 4” from the laundry to the existing bathroom was nothing but sludge. I cabled, blow bagged and video with no real effect. Instead of call for a jetter they asked me to give my pressure washer a try. Told them it was a chance, no guarantees. Hooked it up to the new heater and ran it back and forth a half dozen times or so. Put the camera down and sure enough the line was as clean as it could be.

Years ago when I worked for a guy we took care of a local chain of a national pizza restaurants. One of the guys I worked with went to clean the grease interceptor and jet the line. He was more of a plumber than a drain cleaner and the line backed up within a week. I was sent there with the camera and the POS General cart jetter that we had. To get it cleaned right I had to cable it too.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

OpenSights said:


> ............. To get it cleaned right I had to cable it too.


Often hard grease build up needs cabling to clear QUICKLY. I prefer to cut the drain pipe apart and push the grease out with a stick, rod, or pipe by hand.

The mini-jetter does do a really good job though, especially in 1-1/2" and 2" pipe even with hard grease buildup. In small pipe the grease is right against the nozzle so it gets cut easily. It's also important to go slow, spin the hose a lot, and go two steps foward, one step back. I also usually run the camera to identify problem areas that need more work.

Yes that process is involved but it's rare I need to do that as most houses around me have basements or crawl spaces where I can access the pipe. On rare occasions I will call back for the drill snake or tell the customer we must come back with one, but that's maybe once a year.

The biggest issue I run into is galv pipe with straight tees and tight elbows that cause the snake to go the wrong way or not go anywhere at all.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

skoronesa said:


> Often hard grease build up needs cabling to clear QUICKLY. I prefer to cut the drain pipe apart and push the grease out with a stick, rod, or pipe by hand.
> 
> The mini-jetter does do a really good job though, especially in 1-1/2" and 2" pipe even with hard grease buildup. In small pipe the grease is right against the nozzle so it gets cut easily. It's also important to go slow, spin the hose a lot, and go two steps foward, one step back. I also usually run the camera to identify problem areas that need more work.
> 
> ...


My house has an in-law suite that hadn’t been used in decades. When I semi remodeled the kitchen sink was backed up. I did my darnedest to cable it with a 100 but just couldn’t get more than a few feet. About a 10’ run. Ended up cutting the old galvi out. The “sludge” had turned into a concrete like material. I literally had to take a hammer and screw driver to chip the crap in the pipe! Ran across the same situation in a 20s metal lathe and plaster apartment building that, thankfully I don’t deal with anymore.

Slightly off topic.....


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

OpenSights said:


> My house has an in-law suite that hadn’t been used in decades. When I semi remodeled the kitchen sink was backed up. I did my darnedest to cable it with a 100 but just couldn’t get more than a few feet. About a 10’ run. Ended up cutting the old galvi out. The “sludge” had turned into a concrete like material. I literally had to take a hammer and screw driver to chip the crap in the pipe! Ran across the same situation in a 20s metal lathe and plaster apartment building that, thankfully I don’t deal with anymore.
> 
> Slightly off topic.....


That ain't off topic, that's the kind of thing the mini-jetter might be able to get open. When it's under a slab it's often worth trying and it often pays off.

We bought the mini-jetter specifically because we had a house plumbed with no-hub and the master lav and tub were clogged. Must have been a vertical 10' solid with rust that fell down the vent over time. Until it finally opened it all came back into my bucket, must have been at least 2 pounds of rust flakes when I dumped the buckets out.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

skoronesa said:


> Often hard grease build up needs cabling to clear QUICKLY. I prefer to cut the drain pipe apart and push the grease out with a stick, rod, or pipe by hand.
> 
> The mini-jetter does do a really good job though, especially in 1-1/2" and 2" pipe even with hard grease buildup. In small pipe the grease is right against the nozzle so it gets cut easily. It's also important to go slow, spin the hose a lot, and go two steps foward, one step back. I also usually run the camera to identify problem areas that need more work.
> 
> ...


Ran into this the other day,old house had 11/4" galvanized ran to a lavatory and cable kept goin up vent,went back next day with another guy and ran cable and it went thru,I was goin hard at it thinkin I was in the drain,all of a sudden my guy says your cable is coming out the back wall lololo,it had poked a hole in rotten galvanized and drilled a hole thru the wood on the wall scratching up a hardwood floor lolololol


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

sparky said:


> Ran into this the other day,old house had 11/4" galvanized ran to a lavatory and cable kept goin up vent,went back next day with another guy and ran cable and it went thru,I was goin hard at it thinkin I was in the drain,all of a sudden my guy says your cable is coming out the back wall lololo,it had poked a hole in rotten galvanized and drilled a hole thru the wood on the wall scratching up a hardwood floor lolololol


I had a house a couple years ago, I schit you not I hear something on the bathroom window and notice it had started raining. I kept running the mini-jetter and the caretaker goes HEY! The jetters dangling off the roof! Lolz.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

sparky said:


> Ran into this the other day,old house had 11/4" galvanized ran to a lavatory and cable kept goin up vent,went back next day with another guy and ran cable and it went thru,I was goin hard at it thinkin I was in the drain,all of a sudden my guy says your cable is coming out the back wall lololo,it had poked a hole in rotten galvanized and drilled a hole thru the wood on the wall scratching up a hardwood floor lolololol



And I bet the customer demanded you fix the pipe, fix the wall and floors for free because you destroyed the pipe?


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

skoronesa said:


> I had a house a couple years ago, I schit you not I hear something on the bathroom window and notice it had started raining. I kept running the mini-jetter and the caretaker goes HEY! The jetters dangling off the roof! Lolz.


My cable went on the roof from the kitchen line one time and came back down and I saw it twirl in the window!


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Tango said:


> And I bet the customer demanded you fix the pipe, fix the wall and floors for free because you destroyed the pipe?


We've all had incidents, I've been lucky as far as liability on pretty much all of them. here's a few.

Way back I had the last 5' of my cable break off when snaking a waste line to a septic tank. I put a repair head on and my smallest cutter and got it unclogged. Ran the camera and found out they tied the pool drain plug into the septic!!!! My cable went up the leg of the tee the first time and got stuck in the plug mechanism. I almost schit a brick when I realized I could have ended up with 9,000 gallons of pool water shooting out the cleanout at me.

Had a lady with a grounding rod through her waster line, right in the middle. I had snaked the line many times over the years and it wasn't there. She'd had a new panel put. I got the roots and the line drained, went to pull back the big root ball and it wouldn't come back past the grounding rod. Broke off my head and a foot or two. Told her she needed to have it dug up. Luckily it was only a foot deep and right next to the house.

The one that really sucked, luckily wasn't my fault, but one of our slackers had plumbed the house like 5 years prior and used a double wye. He put it on the horizontal in the ceiling of a finished basement. The fitting was yellow as all get out from sitting in the sun, never ordered, in a supply house for years. Why he thought this was okay is beyond me, aside from the fact it's against code to put them on the horizontal. I assume the inspector had never seen one and figured since wyes were fine on their side it would be too.

My cable came from one leg and the bit grabbed the crotch of the wye on the other side. I had like 80' of cable out so it built up a lot of tension, the head slipped, spun real fast and smashed a hole in the side of the brittle fitting dumping roughly 60 gallons of sewage into the ceiling.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

skoronesa said:


> I had a house a couple years ago, I schit you not I hear something on the bathroom window and notice it had started raining. I kept running the mini-jetter and the caretaker goes HEY! The jetters dangling off the roof! Lolz.


That's some funny stuff,people have no idea what we go thru,i like to have someone with me when cabling drains to help listen to where it's at,if it went up vent,if it is in basement,if it's out the roof whatever


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Tango said:


> My cable went on the roof from the kitchen line one time and came back down and I saw it twirl in the window!


Years ago I had to cable a main through a crawl space house. Upper 90° day. I fought it hard for about 80’ until I took a break. Happened to look out the window to see my cable in a nice coil in the back yard.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

OpenSights said:


> Years ago I had to cable a main through a crawl space house. Upper 90° day. I fought it hard for about 80’ until I took a break. Happened to look out the window to see my cable in a nice coil in the back yard.


I was fighting with one, took me over 30 minutes to get it back and when I did it had a rust flake covered plastic shopping bag tied up on the end. When I showed up the guy admitted they never pumped the tank in the 20+ years they had been there. It was a really old house, stone foundation, prewar cast iron, and several barns out back.

My manager showed up as I was finishing and he was astonished with the bag I pulled out. We walked out back to prospect where the tank might be. He noticed in the light snow cable marks!! We followed them under the attached deck to find it had *popped through the lid on an old sears tank.* There was some trash under the porch including a couple more bags lolz

They ended up getting a whole new septic system, luckily they had the perfect land for it. But there was one more hiccup. I get a call three days after the new system went in because it was already backing up! The tank couldn't even be filled yet!

Some dingle berry had *put the outlet filter in the inlet tee!!!!! *We think the VERY NEW inspector swapped it thinking the excavator put it in the wrong place.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

Tango said:


> And I bet the customer demanded you fix the pipe, fix the wall and floors for free because you destroyed the pipe?


Nope,this was and upstairs bathroom and he was disabled and not able to climb the stairs so he never knew about it,but yes I did have to remove the wood on the wall to get access to the galvi drain line to replace it,in other words we got lucky lololololololo


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## Nosh (Feb 5, 2017)

We bought the general mini jetter a few months ago, but no one but me has tried it out. I first tested it out running it up my downspout and it worked pretty damn well actually.

Yesterday I decided to try it out on a partially blocked kitchen drain. Cut in a cleanout and went through 1 1/2” brass Tee no problem. Got to base of stack under the slab in the basement and I had a lot of diccuculty getting pat the 90. I got past it after 10 min of trying and cleared blockage approx 20’ from kitchen c.o. Tried sending it down again for practice and couldn’t get past the 90 again tried for 20 min and just gave up. Sent a snake down no problem. Is there a technique to get past 90’s. I tried multiple heads and had the same result the second time.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Nosh said:


> We bought the general mini jetter a few months ago, but no one but me has tried it out. I first tested it out running it up my downspout and it worked pretty damn well actually.
> 
> Yesterday I decided to try it out on a partially blocked kitchen drain. Cut in a cleanout and went through 1 1/2” brass Tee no problem. Got to base of stack under the slab in the basement and I had a lot of diccuculty getting pat the 90. I got past it after 10 min of trying and cleared blockage approx 20’ from kitchen c.o. Tried sending it down again for practice and couldn’t get past the 90 again tried for 20 min and just gave up. Sent a snake down no problem. Is there a technique to get past 90’s. I tried multiple heads and had the same result the second time.


Put a VERY slight bend in the hose about an inch before the crimped on fitting. It does take some practice to learn the feel of it, when to push as you turn the cable. I use it a couple times a month on galv and cast. It's great for rust and grease. 1-1/2" lines can be very challenging. 

It doesn't build up tension like a normal snake cable, so when it catches and you twist, YOU have to provide the forward motion to get it to jump over an edge.

I only use the nozzle with the forward hole btw.


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## MACPLUMB777 (Jun 18, 2008)

Take the hose and make a circle with it then you can turn the hose left or right as needed


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## Nosh (Feb 5, 2017)

Thanks for the advice guys! I really appreciate it! I’ll keep practicing with it and hopefully it’ll get smoother!


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## karlwithak.conley (Nov 26, 2021)

Have a look at Mustang jetters. They have a valve on the pump that causes the pump output to pulse, making it much easier to get around ells. With a cornering head you can even get it to go up a vent! The small electric carted model I used 30 years ago is still in service with its 4th pump. It carries a hand cranked hose reel holding 100’. Last I checked they sold for about $1250.


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## MACPLUMB777 (Jun 18, 2008)

You need to keep up to date, Mustang is now owned by Spartan Tool LLC. 
But you are right it was a great little Jetter, I owned one myself


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## karlwithak.conley (Nov 26, 2021)

I bought one of Mustang’s largest electric jetters about 3 years ago for use at my nuclear plant clearing radioactive ion exchange resin precipitate from rad waste discharge lines. Worked great. 15 hp 3 phase. I dealt direct with Mustang when I bought it. If Spartan bought them it must have been later. Such a machine is certainly not an everyday purchase, so please forgive if I don’t keep up with the corporate machinations of tool makers.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Nazareth said:


> Do you use the JM-1000?


Yup. Been using it since 2016. 

House piped 100% with no-hub had a 2" line from the master bath which picked up the two sinks and tub. Between the **** from the "Her's" sink and the rust falling down the vent it was like concrete in the pipe. Spent almost a full day between two trips trying to snake it. Came back a week later with our new Mini-Jetter and I cleared it after 10mins.

The first one we received had a bad switch. After a couple uses it failed. We told the supply house and they just gave us another one for free. So naturally we sent the bad one in to General and they fixed it under warranty. We only paid shipping one way and now we have two for the price of one!

On the ebay you can get some nozzles for 11$ a piece. A few months ago the tip cleaner broke off in one of my nozzles and I was so fed up I just bought a couple off the ebay myself. I had a manager order two nozzle sets from General immediately as our supply house has them on hand. The 11$ ones are just as good. Do you even use the other three nozzles in the 200$ kit? I certainly don't, only the nozzle with a forward jet.










Erie Tools Button Nose 1/8" Sewer Jetter Drain Cleaning Nozzle 4.5 Orifice Size 819891028334 | eBay


Features one (1) front jet with 0° spray to clear blockages and three (3) rear jets with 33° spray to flush out debris. Designed and manufactured to perform even in the toughest sewer jetter applications.



www.ebay.com













Erie Tools Button Nose 1/8" Sewer Jetter Drain Cleaning Nozzle 5.5 Orifice Size 843824107308 | eBay


Features one (1) front jet with 0° spray to clear blockages and three (3) rear jets with 33° spray to flush out debris. Designed and manufactured to perform even in the toughest sewer jetter applications.



www.ebay.com


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## Nazareth (Sep 30, 2017)

skoronesa said:


> Yup. Been using it since 2016.
> 
> House piped 100% with no-hub had a 2" line from the master bath which picked up the two sinks and tub. Between the **** from the "Her's" sink and the rust falling down the vent it was like concrete in the pipe. Spent almost a full day between two trips trying to snake it. Came back a week later with our new Mini-Jetter and I cleared it after 10mins.
> 
> ...


when I was working for a larger company I had a JM-1000 on the truck. I fking loved that thing. Hoping to pick one up this next year. They’re awesome.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Nazareth said:


> when I was working for a larger company I had a JM-1000 on the truck. I fking loved that thing. Hoping to pick one up this next year. They’re awesome.


Unless you really need the toolbox form factor I'd buy an electric pressure washer and get the 1/8" hose from General. 1000$ is pretty steep for an electric preasure washer in a box. We got two for that price and frankly 500$ seems right for what it is. 

You could probably put the pressure washer guts into a toolbox anyway. I wish the General had drain ports for freezing temps. @Tango uses some cans of winterizing foam, should be in this thread.

The CAT brand pressure washer seems to be the best. It was tested by ProjectFarm.


Cat Electric Pressure Washer - 1800 PSI 2.0 GPM https://a.co/d/e7Z5Pqw


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## Nazareth (Sep 30, 2017)

skoronesa said:


> Unless you really need the toolbox form factor I'd buy an electric pressure washer and get the 1/8" hose from General. 1000$ is pretty steep for an electric preasure washer in a box. We got two for that price and frankly 500$ seems right for what it is.
> 
> You could probably put the pressure washer guts into a toolbox anyway. I wish the General had drain ports for freezing temps. @Tango uses some cans of winterizing foam, should be in this thread.
> 
> ...


this is great insight. I bet I could fit the CAT and the hoses in a pack out and just make it my rig.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Nazareth said:


> this is great insight. I bet I could fit the CAT and the hoses in a pack out and just make it my rig.


Don't take my word for it. See if you can borrow someone's electric pressure washer and try it with a General hose and one of those 11$ nozzles. If you end up buying a Mini-Jetter anyway you'll appreciate having a spare hose, things tend to happen to them.


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