# gas hot water heater common vent with gas furnace



## Handy Jimmy (3 mo ago)

Does anyone have experience with an installation where both appliances share a the same B-vent and the water heater pilot goes out periodically every few days? 

Whirlpool 40 Gallon tank with normal vent
Conventional 80% efficient Heil 90,000 BTU furnace with draft inducer

Both are in the basement and vent into a "Y" and is about 28' to the roof of a 1-1/2 story house.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

Is that you in the picture Jim, up by your name ?


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## MACPLUMB777 (Jun 18, 2008)

Replace the FUNKY Water Heater


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

Jimmy,

My name is Terry and you probably are a great guy but this forum isn’t for DIY, it’s for professionals only.

Go to a DIY forum and post your pics if you’d like but my best advice would be to hire an experienced reputable plumber in your area. Ask your friends who they are happy with and why…….


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## Sstratton6175 (Jan 10, 2021)

Looks like the pilot hasn’t gone out since 3/26. What’s the problem?


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## jakewilcox (Sep 3, 2019)

A heat pump water heater will fix it.


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## Handy Jimmy (3 mo ago)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> Is that you in the picture Jim, up by your name ?


Yes, that's my pic


Sstratton6175 said:


> Looks like the pilot hasn’t gone out since 3/26. What’s the problem?


It went out periodically from late December on 2021 to March. It did not go out until a couple weeks ago but I didn't make a note on the tank. I was going to replace the gas valve but it operated fine since March 26. 

Some history:

A previous furnace, almost identical was installed in 1995. That water heater was installed next to the 1995 furnace in 2016 and never had a problem with pilot. When a leak in 1995 furnace heat exchanger was detected, the furnace shown in this pictured was installed late December, 2021. Both previous and current furnace have draft induced vent. The pilot began going went out two days following new furnace install. It continued, sometime staying on a week or ten days. Other times, it went out within 24 hrs.

It re-lights relatively easy, Just turn nob to pilot, hold in and push sparker button. Of course, when it goes out at night and I don't find out till stepping into a cold shower, it's annoying.

The only difference is previous to new furnace, the vent was single wall. Per code, furnace installer replaced single wall pipe with B-Vent. .Furnace installer did come out, check gas pressure, draft, etc. My initial thought was dust and dirt from 25+ yr old single wall vent was swept up and may have gotten on thermopile. I removed the water heater mantle and cleaned the thermopile several times. Voltage measured from thermopile was about 760 MA. Spec says between 650 and 850.

I also used compressed air to blow out the pilot tube and the vapor barrier in the base. If this were clogged, it would draw in enough oxygen for pilot flame. I also left off mesh screen from base so it could get more air. The Honeywell gas control flashing light to indicate pilot is lite. It is also supposed to flash X number of time to indicate other status like over temp, etc. With the pilot out, there is no voltage for the controller and seeing the flash indications requires being able to see it just before the pilot goes off which is impossible

From Dec through March, I continued to try and solve the puzzle. Sometimes, it stayed on for three weeks and I thought is was good to go.

I even bought a new controller in March and planned on installing it but wen it didn't go out, I sent it back. Then, the water heater operated fine from April till a week ago. Thermostat started to kick in furnace a few weeks ago, but only occasional. A week ago, temps got down and it came on more frequently. It was also very windy but from last April through last week, there were also occasional storms and high winds. 

This water heater is 7 yrs old. It had a 6 yr warranty. I figure a water heater is good for about 12-15 yrs. This is the 3rd in this 38 yr old house. I installed all three and also did water heaters for several neighbors. I am not a plumber or ever employed in trades. My dad taught me to sweat copper when I was 12 yrs old and have done lots of DIY jobs all my life. (I'm 77 yrs old)

I did talk to Whirlhpool experts who told me a normal atmospheric vent water heater cannot share a common vent with a furnace with a draft induced vent. The installer and several other HVAC people I know told me this was BS as there are 100s if not 1000's similar installations all over town.

The furnace installer came out again last week and could not find any problem. He took pics of the venting and conferred with tech experts at his furnace supplier, who said it's fine.

As mentioned, it relights easy, except since last week, it became more of a "pain". I miss stepped in my garage and fell against my car fender with my chest, which cracked a rib. Doc said not much I can do other than to take it easy. Leaning over a small stool to push button to re-light pilot adds more of a challenge. 

I continue to search for a fix, but I'm not lying down on the concrete floor to repeat earlier efforts with thermopile. Exploring options, I had a plumber in to quote me installation of a power vent water heater (PVC out side of house). Ouch, $2800. hurt more than my rib. Another option is an electric tank, which I can install myself (after rib heals) for about $500. Not only do I hate the idea of a higher elect bill, but it sucks that I should get another 6 or so yrs out of the current tank.


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## hewhodigsholes (Oct 28, 2020)

Handy Jimmy said:


> Yes, that's my pic
> 
> 
> It went out periodically from late December on 2021 to March. It did not go out until a couple weeks ago but I didn't make a note on the tank. I was going to replace the gas valve but it operated fine since March 26.
> ...


$2800 is a steal for a power vent.


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## Handy Jimmy (3 mo ago)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> Jimmy,
> 
> My name is Terry and you probably are a great guy but this forum isn’t for DIY, it’s for professionals only.
> 
> Go to a DIY forum and post your pics if you’d like but my best advice would be to hire an experienced reputable plumber in your area. Ask your friends who they are happy with and why…….


Read my detail explanation response down below. Yes, I am a DIY, but I've installed maybe 20 or so water heaters over the years.for myself and friends as a favor. Plus done many more copper lines for various adds or repairs. I always use copper. My sweat joints are never as pretty as my fathers (he was a steam fitter), but they don't leak. I already conferred with several professionals. Other than throwing $$$$ of dollars at the problem, they can't come up with an answer.


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

Handy Jimmy said:


> Read my detail explanation response down below. Yes, I am a DIY, but I've installed maybe 20 or so water heaters over the years.for myself and friends as a favor. Plus done many more copper lines for various adds or repairs. I always use copper. My sweat joints are never as pretty as my fathers (he was a steam fitter), but they don't leak. I already conferred with several professionals. Other than throwing $$$$ of dollars at the problem, they can't come up with an answer.


Whirlpool heaters are junk..... junk... junk...... 
just start with a new water heater,,,, ANY BRAND but another Whirlpool heater
and odds are you will win


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## dhal22 (Jul 30, 2010)

What about hiring someone to hold an acetylene torch where the burner assembly is? You know, schedule someone twice a day to come and heat the water. Easy really, just remove the burner assembly and it's wide open underneath.


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## jakewilcox (Sep 3, 2019)

Normally, I won’t do this but it’s Friday and I’m feeling charitable. This isn’t a DIY forum. It’s a professionals only forum. 

First and foremost check your draft diverter and your rain cap. I have definitely seen more than one draft diverter with the center removed. Idk why. I assume it’s a non pro not understanding what a draft diverter is for. I would also just go ahead and replace the thermocouple. They are relatively cheap and that may solve your problem right there. I have definitely seen more than one flaky thermocouple in my life. Incidentally, because of the labor and cost involved in removing the burner assembly, cleaning the combustion chamber and putting it all back together, I always just replace the thermocouple at that point. It can’t hurt, it’s cheap and it doesn’t cost any additional labor.

I don’t know what kind of controls that water heater has. Water heater controls are kind of a tricky thing. When I was an apprentice we used to replace them all the time. I don’t replace them anymore. It causes more problems than it solves (IMO). You may be having some sort of electrical issue (a short, crud, cat walks by and the pilot-cut valve closes, etc.) between the thermocouple and the controls.

In my opinion, over the last 20 years or maybe longer the quality of components for water heaters (and everything else) has decreased to the point that they are throwaway units.

If you were my client I would check the draft diverter, thermocouple, and the rain cap and then tell you to get a new water heater, if there wasn’t something obvious. There’s a whole bunch of reasons for that but the biggest one is that you were just gonna continue to have problems with it unless I get it right and there’s no telling that I’ll get it right with crappy components. It’ll cost you less to get a new water heater than have me come out three times screwing around with it and probably ruin my relationship with a client; with my luck the repair will fail on Thanksgiving or Christmas, then everyone is pissed.

I have never installed a whirlpool water heater and have no real experience with them. I will tell you that it is not a brand-name that is carried at most of the supply houses around me.

Ultimately, to answer your question though: the wye pipe shouldn’t be a problem provided it’s sized properly and meets all local, state and national codes. From the picture it’s very difficult to determine whether or not it is sized properly.

On a sidenote, I have had people tie a dryer vent into a Y that is a flue for a furnace. I hope I don’t have to say this, but that is a disaster waiting to happen in the form of a burned down house and an insurance company denying a claim for being stupid. 

This is all a very long winded way of saying that I really think that you should call a professional plumber. I know you probably don’t want to hear that. And if they tell you you need a new water heater don’t be shocked.


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## Handy Jimmy (3 mo ago)

Master Mark said:


> Whirlpool heaters are junk..... junk... junk......
> just start with a new water heater,,,, ANY BRAND but another Whirlpool heater and odds are you will win


Mark, Let's say you were local to me and I hired you replace the water heater, either with a Bradford, AO Smith, etc. Assuming a 40 gal at a box store sells for 400-500. A new heater (better brand than Whirlpool), from a licensed plumber would likely be 600-700. Add in labor to deliver and install, remove old unit and my guess is the total bill would be $1000 - $1500. Forgive me if my estimate is wrong but it certainly be more than if I went to a box store and did it myself. 

Hypothetically, what if a new water heater does the same thing and it's a draft problem or configuration with the B-vent that that several other licensed HVAC installers and a major local plumber cannot determine. No one on this forum has suggested a solution other than to say Whirlpool is junk or the smart ass with the acetylene torch Mind you this same Whirlpool (junk or not) operated fine for six years sharing the same configuration with common vent as the previous furnace. My expectation for this water heater from a box store was that it would last another 6-7 yrs, which is roughly the same as two previous water heaters in this same house that I personally replaced since the house was built in 1984.

I do get it that you are in the business to make a living. If I called you to my house and said, "give me a solution" would your response be to install another brand (not junk) water heater or would you try to determine whether it's a draft problem, etc? If you did install a new water heater and the problem persisted, How would you handle it? I'm not trying to be PITA but I am hoping you or someone would answer?


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Handy Jimmy said:


> Read my detail explanation response down below. Yes, I am a DIY, but I've installed maybe 20 or so water heaters over the years.for myself and friends as a favor. Plus done many more copper lines for various adds or repairs. I always use copper. My sweat joints are never as pretty as my fathers (he was a steam fitter), but they don't leak. I already conferred with several professionals. Other than throwing $$$$ of dollars at the problem, they can't come up with an answer.











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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

Handy Jimmy said:


> Mark, Let's say you were local to me and I hired you replace the water heater, either with a Bradford, AO Smith, etc. Assuming a 40 gal at a box store sells for 400-500. A new heater (better brand than Whirlpool), from a licensed plumber would likely be 600-700. Add in labor to deliver and install, remove old unit and my guess is the total bill would be $1000 - $1500. Forgive me if my estimate is wrong but it certainly be more than if I went to a box store and did it myself.
> 
> Hypothetically, what if a new water heater does the same thing and it's a draft problem or configuration with the B-vent that that several other licensed HVAC installers and a major local plumber cannot determine. No one on this forum has suggested a solution other than to say Whirlpool is junk or the smart ass with the acetylene torch Mind you this same Whirlpool (junk or not) operated fine for six years sharing the same configuration with common vent as the previous furnace. My expectation for this water heater from a box store was that it would last another 6-7 yrs, which is roughly the same as two previous water heaters in this same house that I personally replaced since the house was built in 1984.
> 
> I do get it that you are in the business to make a living. If I called you to my house and said, "give me a solution" would your response be to install another brand (not junk) water heater or would you try to determine whether it's a draft problem, etc? If you did install a new water heater and the problem persisted, How would you handle it? I'm not trying to be PITA but I am hoping you or someone would answer?


It’s not our problem buddy and no one here is going to help you. Hire a pro in your area and if there are no pros then pack you **** up and move out.


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## MACPLUMB777 (Jun 18, 2008)

Go to the Terry Love Plumbing Advice & Remodel DIY & Professional Forum and look up 
WHIRLPOOL WATER HEATERS, That will explain why it is crap and no longer sold,


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## dhal22 (Jul 30, 2010)

Total bill $1000-1500? HAHAHAHAHAHAHWHAHAHAHAHAJAHAUAJHAHAHAHAHA! No.


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

Handy Jimmy said:


> Mark, Let's say you were local to me and I hired you replace the water heater, either with a Bradford, AO Smith, etc. Assuming a 40 gal at a box store sells for 400-500. A new heater (better brand than Whirlpool), from a licensed plumber would likely be 600-700. Add in labor to deliver and install, remove old unit and my guess is the total bill would be $1000 - $1500. Forgive me if my estimate is wrong but it certainly be more than if I went to a box store and did it myself.
> 
> Hypothetically, what if a new water heater does the same thing and it's a draft problem or configuration with the B-vent that that several other licensed HVAC installers and a major local plumber cannot determine. No one on this forum has suggested a solution other than to say Whirlpool is junk or the smart ass with the acetylene torch Mind you this same Whirlpool (junk or not) operated fine for six years sharing the same configuration with common vent as the previous furnace. My expectation for this water heater from a box store was that it would last another 6-7 yrs, which is roughly the same as two previous water heaters in this same house that I personally replaced since the house was built in 1984.
> 
> I do get it that you are in the business to make a living. If I called you to my house and said, "give me a solution" would your response be to install another brand (not junk) water heater or would you try to determine whether it's a draft problem, etc? If you did install a new water heater and the problem persisted, How would you handle it? I'm not trying to be PITA but I am hoping you or someone would answer?


Depending on where you are in the USA, the price range will probably be north of 1500 but under 2k... 
you can probably get a Rheem from Home Depot and it would function better than the whirlpool..
Call Hd and just ask them for a price but they seem to do a bait and switch and upcharge once they 
get to your home..
Here in the po-dunky mid west they go for around 1500-1700..

Terry Love Plumbing Advice & Remodel DIY & Professional Forum I ranted quit a bit about the Whirlpool 
heater over on terrys site from 2005 through the day they threw them out of Lowes....


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## goeswiththeflow (Feb 24, 2018)

If we give you the answer do we get a handy, Jimmy?


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## hewhodigsholes (Oct 28, 2020)

Handy Jimmy said:


> Assuming a 40 gal at a box store sells for 400-500. A new heater (better brand than Whirlpool), from a licensed plumber would likely be 600-700. Add in labor to deliver and install, remove old unit and my guess is the total bill would be $1000 - $1500. Forgive me if my estimate is wrong but it certainly be more than if I went to a box store and did it myself.


1) Your assumption of unit pricing is low, by about $200-400 for both the box store and supply house. You're also assuming it costs just the tank and nothing else. No gas piping, water flexes, expansion tank, drain pan, vent pipe, etc. Add in permit and inspection from the local AHJ and we're already up to $1000.

2) With that unit pricing in mind, say it takes 3-4 hours for the plumber to install it, counting the drive out to your house. We are paid premium wages because we are licensed professionals. It takes 5-8 years to get a plumbing license, plus hundreds of dollars of classes, tests, and hours of training. All because if we do our job wrong, people get hurt, sick, or die. So yes, we charge $150+ per hour to do our jobs.

3) I don’t know what part of the country you're in, but here in Missouri I won't do a gas water heater for less than $2300. When I was in Texas earlier this year it was $2600. 

4) If you want to install it yourself, knock yourself out. I say this without sarcasm: good luck with warranty issues. My experience has been that the good heater companies (Bradford, AO Smith, Rheem) always ask what company you are with while working on a unit. Bradford won't work with a homeowner at all. Bit of a gamble if you ask me.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

hewhodigsholes said:


> 1) Your assumption of unit pricing is low, by about $200-400 for both the box store and supply house. You're also assuming it costs just the tank and nothing else. No gas piping, water flexes, expansion tank, drain pan, vent pipe, etc. Add in permit and inspection from the local AHJ and we're already up to $1000.
> 
> 2) With that unit pricing in mind, say it takes 3-4 hours for the plumber to install it, counting the drive out to your house. We are paid premium wages because we are licensed professionals. It takes 5-8 years to get a plumbing license, plus hundreds of dollars of classes, tests, and hours of training. All because if we do our job wrong, people get hurt, sick, or die. So yes, we charge $150+ per hour to do our jobs.
> 
> ...


All the water heater companies you listed will honor the warranty for homeowners.

No where in the warranty paperwork for any of those companies does it state that the warranty doesn’t apply unless a professional is involved. I’ve been through that with Bradford White and they admitted it when a supervisor was summoned.

I talked to the Bradford Rep in Tennessee for East of the Mississippi service. She told me that the warranty applies for everyone. Not just plumbers.


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## Shadyear (10 mo ago)

Rheem definitely works with homeowners


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

Shadyear said:


> Rheem definitely works with homeowners


Bradford White is the one that’s talks out of both sides of their mouth.

On the website it says they’re only sold to professionals. But the warranty paperwork doesn’t state anything about having to have a licensed plumber handle the warranty or only selling to licensed people. 

The warranty is a legal document. The website is what they want to project on you.


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

hewhodigsholes said:


> 1) Your assumption of unit pricing is low, by about $200-400 for both the box store and supply house. You're also assuming it costs just the tank and nothing else. No gas piping, water flexes, expansion tank, drain pan, vent pipe, etc. Add in permit and inspection from the local AHJ and we're already up to $1000.
> 
> 2) With that unit pricing in mind, say it takes 3-4 hours for the plumber to install it, counting the drive out to your house. We are paid premium wages because we are licensed professionals. It takes 5-8 years to get a plumbing license, plus hundreds of dollars of classes, tests, and hours of training. All because if we do our job wrong, people get hurt, sick, or die. So yes, we charge $150+ per hour to do our jobs.
> 
> ...



I wish we could get that price in our area .... their is no permit needed around here and of course they
sell everything to anyone at HD and Blowes too.... We run into abortions all the time where someone really
made a total god awful mess of the installation .....

I just got a call for a 40 gallon electric this morning because my sticker
was on this 2001 unit and told them 1500 and they about crapped their pants..... 

Its all about advertising and throwing that huge net out there trying to land the richer suckers
who will pay 2700 for a 50 gallon gas heater....today.

check out this facebook site ....their are lots of pretty installs to gawk at 

Ban Water Heaters from Box Stores | Facebook


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## hewhodigsholes (Oct 28, 2020)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> All the water heater companies you listed will honor the warranty for homeowners.
> 
> No where in the warranty paperwork for any of those companies does it state that the warranty doesn’t apply unless a professional is involved. I’ve been through that with Bradford White and they admitted it when a supervisor was summoned.
> 
> I talked to the Bradford Rep in Tennessee for East of the Mississippi service. She told me that the warranty applies for everyone. Not just plumbers.


I'm sure they do. Nobody wants to get sued.

I put the qualifier of "in my experience" because I have called all of those manufacturers at one time or another, and all of them asked what company I was with. If you've had a different experience, great!

@Master Mark , I'm part of that group. I see stuff like that daily because all the property managers (slumlords) use their handy andys to change out heaters all the time. Then they get mad because the city catches them and red tags the whole house and shuts off the gas. So it ends up costing them more in the long run.

As far as pricing goes, everyone has a budget, and I get that. I have no problem installing a customer provided until they want to try and save a little cash, with the stipulation that I will only install to code and that I am absolutely pulling a permit and inspection. Saving the customer money isn't worth my license.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Shadyear said:


> Rheem definitely works with homeowners


I had a Rheem rep hang up on me earlier this month. I’m done with them and their BS French POS gas valves!


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## MACPLUMB777 (Jun 18, 2008)

hewhodigsholes said:


> I'm sure they do. Nobody wants to get sued.
> 
> I put the qualifier of "in my experience" because I have called all of those manufacturers at one time or another, and all of them asked what company I was with. If you've had a different experience, great!
> 
> ...


YES That is the way felt about it when I was running my CO. in L.A.


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

OpenSights said:


> I had a Rheem rep hang up on me earlier this month. I’m done with them and their BS French POS gas valves!



Actually, from what I was told is
that ****ty gas valve is supposed to be from Italy ....

We are still fooling with them and eventually they all wiill have to be replaced
on the customers dime


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

OpenSights said:


> I had a Rheem rep hang up on me earlier this month. I’m done with them and their BS French POS gas valves!


What was said ?


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> What was said ?


Told her the second GCV went bad in it. No one lives there as it is a 503c. She just couldn’t wrap her tiny brain around the fact that the residential/commercial zoned house had no permanent occupant or owner other than the non-profit. Of course I was calling on my way up north to close up the cabins. Thankfully I have other plumber friends who installed the new one for me. I asked her to send a White Rodgers valve, but nooooo….. so I’ll have to change it out again in 6 months or less.


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## dhal22 (Jul 30, 2010)

Master Mark said:


> I wish we could get that price in our area .... their is no permit needed around here and of course they
> sell everything to anyone at HD and Blowes too.... We run into abortions all the time where someone really
> made a total god awful mess of the installation .....
> 
> ...



Other than local schools I don't really advertise. We are mid $2000's for a 50 gallon gas heater installed and do 5 or so a month, sometimes 10. It's a major appliance and is worthy of a professional installation.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

dhal22 said:


> Other than local schools I don't really advertise. We are mid $2000's for a 50 gallon gas heater installed and do 5 or so a month, sometimes 10. It's a major appliance and is worthy of a professional installation.


It’s so much cheaper the farther south you go, not into cebtral and south Fl. I’m not sure what their prices are.

Weird


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

Dude those Rheem “smart” tank electric water heaters are junk. First we installed owner provided went into service mode after 1 month, Rheem tech said cycle the power off and back on. Service light went away. Did it again a couple months later and wouldn’t cycle back out of service mode, sent new board, happened again about a month later. 2 more customers I tried to talk out of buying that one went ahead bought them anyways. They both had the same issue. They’re crap. Would not reccomend


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

The Rheem marathon is a decent heater from my experience. Have one in my basement that I got for free. Dumbazz who installed it dry fired it. $200 for new elements. I put 10 of them in some condos years ago. Never a back call.


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

dhal22 said:


> Other than local schools I don't really advertise. We are mid $2000's for a 50 gallon gas heater installed and do 5 or so a month, sometimes 10. It's a major appliance and is worthy of a professional installation.


What part of the USA are you located in?? 
Like I said, here in po-dunkey Indiana you wont get many calls for heaters 
over 2k.... and a lot of hang ups on you


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## dhal22 (Jul 30, 2010)

Master Mark said:


> What part of the USA are you located in??
> Like I said, here in po-dunkey Indiana you wont get many calls for heaters
> over 2k.... and a lot of hang ups on you



North Atlanta, pretty high end zip codes here so that helps.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

dhal22 said:


> North Atlanta, pretty high end zip codes here so that helps.


Dude I love Alpharetta. Beautiful up there. Buckhead is ok. Too much traffic. Alpharetta reminds me of here a little bit. The American Girl Doll store at the mall in Alpharetta has gotten quite a chunk change out of my pocket through the years having 5 daughters.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

I like the Duluth area.


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## dhal22 (Jul 30, 2010)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> Dude I love Alpharetta. Beautiful up there. Buckhead is ok. Too much traffic. Alpharetta reminds me of here a little bit. The American Girl Doll store at the mall in Alpharetta has gotten quite a chunk change out of my pocket through the years having 5 daughters.



My shop is in Milton (Alpharetta) but I live just over the city boundary in Roswell. Both towns have tons of restaurants and high end shopping. Customers here generally say get it done when it comes to plumbing repairs.


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## KCPlumb (Oct 26, 2021)

Your vents are tied in wrong. Read the code book. Call back your HVAC guy and have him fix it.


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## PlumberPhil (3 mo ago)

Master Mark said:


> What part of the USA are you located in??
> Like I said, here in po-dunkey Indiana you wont get many calls for heaters
> over 2k.... and a lot of hang ups on you


50 gal NG, are about 1700 from us. There's a "franchise" plumbing co. that's putting them in for 3400 tho🤯 just RIP offs....smh


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

PlumberPhil said:


> 50 gal NG, are about 1700 from us. There's a "franchise" plumbing co. that's putting them in for 3400 tho🤯 just RIP offs....smh


We do them for around this price too.....On a good day I can do 3 myself, no problem...
Now if its a mean nasty one where i got to tear out a water softener or remove everything in
the laundry room or break down the furnace.... then it goes up a few hundred more

It amazes me when I hear the prices from the franchise companies.....I guess its the power of advertising and the
fact that a sucker is born every 2 minutes.....


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