# Electric eel z5



## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

I have an opportunity to purchase electric eel z5 for pennies on the dollar. Thoughts on performance of machine.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

The Z5 is a rental machine with an open cage(unless it is the professional version with a epoxy powder coated steel drum). Similar to there Model E. I think the Model E is the better machine of the two. Both have the same motors, pulleys, drive shafts, similar drums/w inner drums, same clutch on drive shaft. The operate the same cable sizes (3/8" or 1/2"). They oporate in a similar fashion to the Model N on a heavey duty pulley and drive shaft, which I feel is much more reliable than say a General Mini Rooter, which uses the drum as a pulley. 

Where they differ is that the Model E can operate in two different positions, has a removable dolly so the wheels are not mounted to the frame, making it easier to move into the position you want. 

If the Z5 is the enclosed drum version(professional) then I'd say get it if it's cheap. The Z5 is not a very effective drum cleaner as say the Model E is as the Model Z5 is too tall and bulky. If it is the open drum version, then I'd pass on it. $200.00 tops is want I would give for it, even if in good shape. The Z5 is set up like a mainline machine, but is way too small for that type of work.


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Its here! Now to put it together....


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Got it set up. I'm a greenie to rodding and I got this when the thread came along about why plumbers should offer drain cleaning. 
Can you explain what each 'head' use is for please.


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## user7551 (Oct 21, 2011)

I will tell ya this much , don't ever use the #3 head unless you are positive about whats in the line because that big of a head will either snap the cable or head if you run into the wrong situation.#1 is just a spade bit used for opening a line. up.#2 is a little spring head makes it somewhat easier to go tighter turns.#4 is a spring with a spade head, #5 is a spring with a little cutting head. If you do much commercial like going through p traps try to get a 18" trap liter it makes it so much easier getting through those p traps. Also you need a drop head for those sanitary cross's you will be running across at times.


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

I'm anxiously waiting on the next drain call I get. For once I won't have to refer it out. I'm going to practice using it tomorrow here in my residence to familiariaze myself with it.


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## user7551 (Oct 21, 2011)

Make sure to be careful that is an outside or roof only machine . You take that inside and you will wish you hadn't, especially after you have used it a bit.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

playme1979 said:


> Make sure to be careful that is an outside or roof only machine . You take that inside and you will wish you hadn't, especially after you have used it a bit.


 Which is why you wrap it with shipping sarah wrap before bringing the machine inside and remove it after job done.
Another thing, an old timer told me rodding through obstruction is like chopping down a tree, can't do it at the first swing, gotta chop it away alittle at time to get thru.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

Good luck getting into the Drain Cleaning field, it can become an addictive habit.....but profitable and very enjoyable. 

Did you get the machine new or used? I'd recommend you get a enclosed steel drum and get you some 1/2" (unless that is what you got) cable also.

The straight auger (#2 in your pic) is a general cleaning tool, usaly the first one I send in with my Model N. That should be your first cutter head to send in on most of your calls to see what your up against. 

The Flexible spear(#4 in your pic) is a good tool for boring through tougher stoppages or a good 2nd pass option. 

The Flexible c-cutter (#5 in your pic) is a good follow up to the flexible spear or straight auger, this one will be used for the grease lines from kitchen sinks. 

The Spear head (#1 in your pic) is a good cutter to start with in 3" pipes or for finishing off 2" lines in your final pass. 

The C-Cutter (#3 in your pic) will be your finish blade in 3" pipes(no roots with this machine though!)


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Will said:


> Good luck getting into the Drain Cleaning field, it can become an addictive habit.....but profitable and very enjoyable.
> 
> Did you get the machine new or used? I'd recommend you get a enclosed steel drum and get you some 1/2" (unless that is what you got) cable also.
> 
> ...


I paid 168$(shipping) brand new for machine in original box. My pops retired plumbing a few months ago when he earned his inspector lic.

Cable is 75' 1/2" inner core cable. 
What would be the reason I need the steel enclosed drum? Indoor use? Where do I order one as well?

In my area most residential sewers are 3"- 4". Its cage is quite small I'm assuming I may need to buy a bigger machine with a longer cable. Idk what to do at this point I'm just going to play by ear and give it a go with what I got.

What can I expect from this machine?

Thanks for all info guys.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Qball415 said:


> I paid 168$(shipping) brand new for machine in original box. My pops retired plumbing a few months ago when he earned his inspector lic.
> 
> Cable is 75' 1/2" inner core cable.
> What would be the reason I need the steel enclosed drum? Indoor use? Where do I order one as well?
> ...


 Guys? Thought there was some Gals here...?


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

Your 1/2" cable will handle 2"-3" pipes or pretty much anything within the scope of the Building Drain. When you get to the building sewer your gonna need a bigger machine. The 1/2" cable is great for 2" cleanouts or any 2" where the trap has been removed or for soft/paper blockages in 3". That machine will not have the @$$ to clear a root blockage, that is why I said you should get a steel drum, as it will be cleaner inside some ones home. You basicaly have a secondary machine there. 

What area of the country are you in? If it is Texas or Oklahoma I could get you with the guy I get my Eel stuff through, if not them you can try http://www.industromart.com/ or just call the Electric eel factory. 

You can get your some 1.25" Electric Eel sectional cable and a Hole Hawg and a adapter to hook up to the cable for your main line cleaning until you can afford a mainline machine.


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

rjbphd said:


> Guys? Thought there was some Gals here...?


There is some Lady members here, they just haven't commented on thread. I try and be conscious when responding with 'guys'.


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## 504Plumber (Jan 26, 2011)

Will said:


> Your 1/2" cable will handle 2"-3" pipes or pretty much anything within the scope of the Building Drain. When you get to the building sewer your gonna need a bigger machine. The 1/2" cable is great for 2" cleanouts or any 2" where the trap has been removed or for soft/paper blockages in 3". That machine will not have the @$$ to clear a root blockage, that is why I said you should get a steel drum, as it will be cleaner inside some ones home. You basicaly have a secondary machine there.
> 
> What area of the country are you in? If it is Texas or Oklahoma I could get you with the guy I get my Eel stuff through, if not them you can try http://www.industromart.com/ or just call the Electric eel factory.
> 
> You can get your some 1.25" Electric Eel sectional cable and a Hole Hawg and a adapter to hook up to the cable for your main line cleaning until you can afford a mainline machine.


I must respectfully disagree, we use our general machines with 1/2" cable for pretty much anything ( aside from lines packed with grease/soft stoppage it is reserved for the jet. ) We have a large general machine that has a 3/4 cable, it hasn't seen the light of day in a very long time. Our 1/2" cables can handle a decent amount of roots, it's all in the feel of the cable. I haven't run a sectional machine so the size on sectional may be a tad different.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

If your clearing mains with 1/2" cable your either clearing 3" PVC with no roots or your opening the door for other companies to come in and take your business. I've been behind plenty of companies that thought a K400 was going to clear a 6" clay sewer. Just the other week I got a call to clear a sewer that a guy with a K400 spent 4 hours trying to clear a blockage. He gave up and left. I got it flowing in less than thirty minutes with my Model C with 1.25" cable. 

I'm not gonna get in a argument here, but you if if your using 1/2" cable to do that your pissing in the wind.


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## 504Plumber (Jan 26, 2011)

Will said:


> If your clearing mains with 1/2" cable your either clearing 3" PVC with no roots or your opening the door for other companies to come in and take your business. I've been behind plenty of companies that thought a K400 was going to clear a 6" clay sewer. Just the other week I got a call to clear a sewer that a guy with a K400 spent 4 hours trying to clear a blockage. He gave up and left. I got it flowing in less than thirty minutes with my Model C with 1.25" cable.
> 
> I'm not gonna get in a argument here, but you if if your using 1/2" cable to do that your pissing in the wind.


No argument from me, if what you have works for you then fine. What we have works fine, we have a lot of 4" clay and cast, the 6" is for the city, if it's stopped up there we call them.


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

504Plumber said:


> I must respectfully disagree, *we use our general machines with 1/2" cable for pretty much anything* ( aside from lines packed with grease/soft stoppage it is reserved for the jet. ) We have a large general machine that has a 3/4 cable, it hasn't seen the light of day in a very long time. Our 1/2" cables can handle a decent amount of roots, it's all in the feel of the cable. I haven't run a sectional machine so the size on sectional may be a tad different.




Must be nice, you wouldn't get too far with that equipment around here unless you had half a day to pick at a sewer.


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## 504Plumber (Jan 26, 2011)

AssTyme said:


> Must be nice, you wouldn't get too far with that equipment around here unless you had half a day to pick at a sewer.


I agree, what works down here may not work in other places. Try putting that 1 1/4 cable down a cast iron sewer down here and your probably going through the first combo you come to. Hell, we did a tunnel Friday and I had a 4x2 wye break off just from cutting the 2" line with a sawzall. The cast down here is getting so bad you can almost crush it with your hands.


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## deerslayer (Mar 29, 2012)

504Plumber said:


> I must respectfully disagree, we use our general machines with 1/2" cable for pretty much anything ( aside from lines packed with grease/soft stoppage it is reserved for the jet. ) We have a large general machine that has a 3/4 cable, it hasn't seen the light of day in a very long time. Our 1/2" cables can handle a decent amount of roots, it's all in the feel of the cable. I haven't run a sectional machine so the size on sectional may be a tad different.


I respectfully disagree as well I use 5/8 for light-medium duty in 2-4". Roots or heavy blockage and I put the 5/8 stuff away experience has taught me I will just be twisting cables up. Get the 1.25" cable out and slamholio. I like the other poster have opened plenty of sewers that other plumbers had gave up on, broke cables of in etc..


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## user7551 (Oct 21, 2011)

ive never ran into anything a 3/4" cable couldn't handle , and that was with over 200 feet of cable down pipe . But I have a spartan 1065


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

deerslayer said:


> I respectfully disagree as well I use 5/8 for light-medium duty in 2-4". Roots or heavy blockage and I put the 5/8 stuff away experience has taught me I will just be twisting cables up. Get the 1.25" cable out and slamholio. I like the other poster have opened plenty of sewers that other plumbers had gave up on, broke cables of in etc..



That sounds like you have rodded a sewer a time or two:thumbsup:. You must also know that there is a pretty big difference in 5/8" IC cable and 1/2" IC cable. 5/8" IC "can" get you into 6" sewers(I wouldn't use it over 3"-4"), but the machine the OP has will not except any cable larger than 1/2". Neither will a General Mini-Rooter, or K-400. All pretty similar machines when it comes to size, motors, drums, and operation. None of those machines should be doing anything above the scope the Building Drains. And NO ROOTS!

5/8" IC cable is too small for my liking, but some people do fine with them if your careful. If your running 5/8" IC cable, then you will most likely be using a machine like the Spartan 300, Ridgid K-750, or General Speedrooter. Any of those machines with 5/8" IC cable will be able to handle most mainline stoppages and "light" roots.


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Broke her in today slow day and accepted a rodding call to fill in the morning. Worked out great pulled a small root ball out and cleared my first line!


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

Qball415 said:


> Broke her in today slow day and accepted a rodding call to fill in the morning. Worked out great pulled a small root ball out and cleared my first line!


Congrats

Do you charge the customer for the use of the equipment?


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Charged accordingly like any other call. Didn't factor in equipment use. Just charged standard 2 hours and toilet reset.
1 more call and its paid for itself plus profit.


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

How is that open reel indoors ?


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

Qball415 said:


> Charged accordingly like any other call. Didn't factor in equipment use. Just charged standard 2 hours and toilet reset.
> 1 more call and its paid for itself plus profit.


I always charge the machine plus the labour

Rate for that machine is $ 75.00 plus hour rate plus any other parts

My k1500 I charge at $ 95.00


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

AssTyme said:


> How is that open reel indoors ?


Wasn't as bad as I expected. Spray wasn't so bad I cleaned up with rag. Next time I'll it plastic on reel.


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## tungsten plumb (Apr 15, 2010)

I see you got it cleared:thumbup:


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

Glad it worked out for you. One thing I notice from the pic, homeowner probably doesn't want your drain cleaning gloves on there lavatory sink.....


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

Will said:


> Glad it worked out for you. One thing I notice from the pic, homeowner probably doesn't want your drain cleaning gloves on there lavatory sink.....




Is that the reason you never wear any ?


lmao !!!


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

You should buy a set of these gloves

They have metal in the palms . They are made by Ridgid left or right hand ... About 17 each


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

OldSchool said:


> You should buy a set of these gloves
> 
> They have metal in the palms . They are made by Ridgid left or right hand ... About 17 each




I hate those things they soak up the chit and start to stink really quick 

I use grappler gloves.

http://www.cometsupply.com/advanced_search_result.html?keywords=Grappler+Glove&x=7&y=5


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## jc-htownplumber (Feb 29, 2012)

Pasco makes an ugly glove they are suppose to be real good I never used them though


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

jc-htownplumber said:


> Pasco makes an ugly glove they are suppose to be real good I never used them though




Good gloves for wear & safety but the chit collects in the deep pores of the gloves, very unsanitary


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

AssTyme said:


> Good gloves for wear & safety but the chit collects in the deep pores of the gloves, very unsanitary


Stop licking the gloves


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## 504Plumber (Jan 26, 2011)

jc-htownplumber said:


> Pasco makes an ugly glove they are suppose to be real good I never used them though


Guy at work got a pair, they grip a cable nice, don't get your hands that wet feeling leather does. I don't care for them because they feel like they are pinching the skin on the back of my thumb. He's had them a little over a month with no rips or tears...


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## jc-htownplumber (Feb 29, 2012)

Well I migth just get some to try em out I use just reg leather palm


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Took the z5 out on a main drain line back up on a 3" sewer. Pulled up some roots and shot cable back in bout 25' and then the p.o.s tangled up in the reel and couldn't get it to straighten out, what are good tips to get cable uniform again? This machine doesn't have the power to go through massive roots! Couldn't get it cleared. I explained to the h.o I would give it a shot for half hour fee and if I couldn't get it cleared I would refer it out.


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

Qball415 said:


> Took the z5 out on a main drain line back up on a 3" sewer. Pulled up some roots and shot cable back in bout 25' and then the p.o.s tangled up in the reel and couldn't get it to straighten out, what are good tips to get cable uniform again? This machine doesn't have the power to go through massive roots! Couldn't get it cleared. I explained to the h.o I would give it a shot for half hour fee and if I couldn't get it cleared I would refer it out.





Please refer to post #12.


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

OldSchool said:


> Stop licking the gloves



:blink:


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## deerslayer (Mar 29, 2012)

playme1979 said:


> ive never ran into anything a 3/4" cable couldn't handle , and that was with over 200 feet of cable down pipe . But I have a spartan 1065


Apparantly TX does not have the root problems and clay sewers that we have here. I have pulled a few of 3/4 broken cables out with the 1 1/4" on the big electric eel.


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

AssTyme said:


> Please refer to post #12.


I'm a stubborn S.O.B. always learn the hard way.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

Tried to tell you.......


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

How do I untangle cable? Do I have to remove reel and completely pull cable out and lay it straight out to reel back in?


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## 504Plumber (Jan 26, 2011)

Qball415 said:


> How do I untangle cable? Do I have to remove reel and completely pull cable out and lay it straight out to reel back in?


If its badly kinked once it's untangled, not much you can do. I have a couple of kinks in the machine I use but they aren't bad enough to keep the cable from doing its job.


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## Sewer Saint (May 5, 2012)

For gloves I have found Under Armor's waterproof football gloves to be the best, especially when handling hydro-jet hoses. I also use Double Tuff latex gloves for special cases when I know my gloves will get damaged.

As for machine kinking, always reel it in slow and deal with any tangles before you get to the drum. In fact always go slow and steady. The biggest thing you are going to have to learn is the feeling, like the difference between a spongy clog, a root ball and a collapsed pipe. You are also going to have to learn how to manually twist your line to follow branches and travel along Ts and Ys. 

Oh, and save up for a pipe camera. The prices are dropping on them and with your operation you should be able to get an acceptable one for under $1000. Right now I am testing a 100' camera setup we got for $300 and seeing how effective it is. So far it has been working fine but I'll really know in a few weeks.

Good luck.


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

Sewer Saint said:


> For gloves I have found Under Armor's waterproof football gloves to be the best, especially when handling hydro-jet hoses. I also use Double Tuff latex gloves for special cases when I know my gloves will get damaged.
> 
> As for machine kinking, always reel it in slow and deal with any tangles before you get to the drum. In fact always go slow and steady. The biggest thing you are going to have to learn is the feeling, like the difference between a spongy clog, a root ball and a collapsed pipe. You are also going to have to learn how to manually twist your line to follow branches and travel along Ts and Ys.
> 
> ...





Yeah good luck with that :laughing:


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## pilot light (Apr 21, 2012)

Qball415 said:


> I paid 168$(shipping) brand new for machine in original box. My pops retired plumbing a few months ago when he earned his inspector lic.
> 
> Cable is 75' 1/2" inner core cable.
> What would be the reason I need the steel enclosed drum? Indoor use? Where do I order one as well?
> ...


good price!


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## saysflushable (Jun 15, 2009)

Qball415 said:


> How do I untangle cable? Do I have to remove reel and completely pull cable out and lay it straight out to reel back in?


Yep or maybe even cut it inside the real if you have to. then you are going to cut out the bad section and splice it. or get a new cable.......you will get a big collection of junk cables during your learning curve. 1/2 is to small for roots. 

this is a dangerous buisness, be very careful with drum machines especially. Yes you will get your hand wrapped up in a cable. hopefully you won't break a fingure.

By the way if you don't fix that kink then you are just another plumber with junk equipment and not a professional drain cleaner:thumbup:

Fix it right. get the right equipment. try to be safe.


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