# Stacker toilet flanges?



## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Yes or no, do you use them or do you sell a whole new flange?


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## tungsten plumb (Apr 15, 2010)

ChrisConnor said:


> Yes or no, do you use them or do you sell a whole new flange?


If the flange is rotted out I just install a whole new flange.


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

I am talking about the situation when the flange is below the floor or at floor level. Of course replace when the flange is bad.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

double the wax or putty which every you use to set a commode.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

ChrisConnor said:


> Yes or no, do you use them or do you sell a whole new flange?


I've used them. When the CI is barely long enough for the existing flange, replacing it can be more trouble than it is worth just to come up a little to hit a finished floor. I use a urethane roofing sealant made by Sonneborn between the flanges.


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

easttexasplumb said:


> double the wax or putty which every you use to set a commode.


I understand that, but the flange is supposed to be on top of the finished floor. Doubling the wax does not make this so. It just makes a wax conduit. 
Sometimes the tile comes above even two rings.


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

plbgbiz said:


> I've used them. When the CI is barely long enough for the existing flange, replacing it can be more trouble than it is worth just to come up a little to hit a finished floor. I use a urethane roofing sealant made by Sonneborn between the flanges.


How long does it take to cure?


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## HSI (Jun 3, 2011)

I have used them a few times when flange is to low and they worked just fine. I would rather use them verses a double wax. The double wax seems to fail if HO uses a plunger.


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## trick1 (Sep 18, 2008)

I use them where necessary....

Haven't had a callback on a spacer kit since I've been at this (16yrs)


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## gladerunner (Jan 24, 2009)

I use them all the time. We do pretty much all new construction, so we always set flanges with knock out test plugs during the rough. We secure to the floor and just extend up with spacer's on trim out. Would guess I've installed 500 toilets this way in past 10 years, and can't remember ever having a problem. And on more then a few we have used up to 4 or 5 spacers. I do use 100% silicon between spacer's and then all I do is double nut and washer the closet bolts to secure


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## Hillside (Jan 22, 2010)

We use them, silicone them together let them cure, dynamite them in and set the toilet


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Why wouldn't you use one of these? I double stacked these before. Also I've used plywood and a holesaw in the rough. No reason for spacers if you can raise flange in rough.


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## trick1 (Sep 18, 2008)

Qball415 said:


> Why wouldn't you use one of these? I double stacked these before. Also I've used plywood and a holesaw in the rough. No reason for spacers if you can raise flange in rough.



On remodels where we rough everything in, we use a kit from Set-Rite....basically they're like the pic you posted but they come in a bag and are different thicknesses to accommodate any floor height...

Set them before you drop the flange and they make up the difference in height...

Sure beats cutting 3/4" pieces of copper tubing and screwing down the flange...


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Sweet tip trick1....For the record, do you use type l copper pups for the spacer trick? Ha.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

ChrisConnor said:


> How long does it take to cure?


Most polyurethane is slow drying. Usually a week to fully cure. Moistue from the toilet flush should not hurt it. Most polyurethanes can cure under water. 

Check out NP1 from Sononlastic. Best you can buy, plus it smells good like a tootsie-roll. :laughing:


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## gladerunner (Jan 24, 2009)

Qball415 said:


> Why wouldn't you use one of these? I double stacked these before. Also I've used plywood and a holesaw in the rough. No reason for spacers if you can raise flange in rough.


Problem is 90% of the time, we don't know what the floor finishes are going to be during rough in. They tell you 1" wet bet with 1/2" marble. Then they show up with luan and linoleum


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

I use them when the customer does not want to replace a low flange...always explain the potential issues. However with that said, I have not had an issue when using them.


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## sikxsevn (Jun 23, 2009)

Will said:


> Check out NP1 from Sononlastic. Best you can buy, plus it smells good like a tootsie-roll. :laughing:


best. Stuff. Ever.

But it's not paintable, and a pain in the butt to clean up if you get it on something you shouldn't have

Sent from my iPhon


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## rizob (Nov 14, 2011)

I can't believe no one said anything about the practice of using putty. Do people really use that? It seams like about 6 months later you would get a callback when it dries up and cracks.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

I use them when I need to and use an aquarium grade silicone between each spacer.


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

I use wax, some use putty. I'm pretty sure moisture of water closet keeps it from drying and cracking.
Search through threads for some discussion on topic.


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## bartnc37 (Feb 24, 2009)

I don't use those stackers if at all possible and if I absolutely have to I use a wax ring with a horn. I probably pulled a dozen toilets last year done with those and every time there was a wad of gummy silicone and a soaked sub-floor. If the installer puts the bolts through the first flange they don't seem so bad but I still don't like them. I would rather use one of the oatey flanges with the rubber seal round the outside. I've just seen to many of those stacked deals leaking like a sieve.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Qball415 said:


> I use wax, some use putty. I'm pretty sure moisture of water closet keeps it from drying and cracking.
> Search through threads for some discussion on topic.


 I'd consider using wax, but a linseed oil based putty might leach into hard woods or natural stone -- I've had it happen with travertine, marble and granite a few times.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

bartnc37 said:


> I don't use those stackers if at all possible and if I absolutely have to I use a wax ring with a horn. I probably pulled a dozen toilets last year done with those and every time there was a wad of gummy silicone and a soaked sub-floor. If the installer puts the bolts through the first flange they don't seem so bad but I still don't like them. I would rather use one of the oatey flanges with the rubber seal round the outside. I've just seen to many of those stacked deals leaking like a sieve.


 You need to allow the sealant to cure enough to be able to wipe off the excess silicone before setting the WC. That's why I use the aquarium grade silicone; It'll tack up enough to wipe away in about 20 minutes and is fully cured in just a few hours.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

Try using the 2 hour shower silicone, cures very quick (2 hours) and has a mold and mildew preventer mixed in with it.

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Mississippiplum said:


> Try using the 2 hour shower silicone, cures very quick (2 hours) and has a mold and mildew preventer mixed in with it.
> 
> sent from the jobsite porta-potty


 Exactly how many times do you visit the shiot sauna in a single day?

Y'all might want to have *THAT* looked at.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> Exactly how many times do you visit the shiot sauna in a single day?
> 
> Y'all might want to have *THAT* looked at.


None actually

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Mississippiplum said:


> None actually
> 
> sent from the jobsite porta-potty


Y'all do realize that's a bit worrisome, right?


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## 130 PLUMBER (Oct 22, 2009)

Once in a very very blue moon i use them... i would say in the last 5 years i used one once


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

There is absolutely nothing wrong with using putty as long as the flooring material will not absorb it as Shins said.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

ChrisConnor said:


> How long does it take to cure?


Closed in under a toilet it won't fully cure for a few days to a week or more depending on the conditions.



Will said:


> Most polyurethane is slow drying. Usually a week to fully cure. Moistue from the toilet flush should not hurt it. Most polyurethanes can cure under water.
> 
> Check out NP1 from Sononlastic.....


Sonneborn's (maybe it's Sonolastic now) NP1 is what we use. Been using it for many, many years. When I first saw it demonstrated it was used to seal a cracked aquarium under water. :thumbup:

100% sounds good in theory but if not allowed to cure dry, it never will completely cure. Although it does take a while, when the NP1 cures, you better hope you like those flanges together because they will be that way from now on.

Even though the demo was under water, I wouldn't risk it on a dirty, waxy, or wet flange. We always clean and dry the flange first.



rizob said:


> I can't believe no one said anything about the practice of using putty. Do people really use that? It seams like about 6 months later you would get a callback when it dries up and cracks.


I've pulled many a WC that had been set in the 40's or 50's with putty. It is awesome but heed the warning from Mr. Shins regarding the leaching out of the oil stain. Great on tile, not so great on wood, laminate, or linoleum.


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## cityplumbing (Jun 12, 2010)

I'm more comfortable replacing the flange. But if I'm in a bind I'll use the spacers.. I've also doubled up on wax rings in the past.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Can't say I've never used 2 wax rings, but one things for sure...it ain't a good practice. 

I can say for sure, I've NEVER used two on a second floor toilet.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

2 rings, and a little plunging= a blow out

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

I've used the PVC spacer flanges. I use a wax seal in between the spacer flanges. I have also used these W/C flanges with a built-in sleeve sometimes.


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## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

The only time I use a spacer is as a spacer under the flange to help raise the flange to the proper height after replacing the flange. I have seen too many fail and rot the floor over time. Stoppages they will seep and leak. I will not use a spanner flange with cast iron. I can peel a flange and replace it within 15 minutes due to a special tool kit I made for this task.


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## sikxsevn (Jun 23, 2009)

Richard Hilliard said:


> The only time I use a spacer is as a spacer under the flange to help raise the flange to the proper height after replacing the flange. I have seen too many fail and rot the floor over time. Stoppages they will seep and leak. I will not use a spanner flange with cast iron. I can peel a flange and replace it within 15 minutes due to a special tool kit I made for this task.


Pics of your special tool?

Sent from my iPhon


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

Tommy plumber said:


> I've used the PVC spacer flanges. I use a wax seal in between the spacer flanges. I have also used these W/C flanges with a built-in sleeve sometimes.


Nice,
where do you get those?


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

422 plumber said:


> Nice,
> where do you get those?


 




Ferguson's.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

Tommy plumber said:


> I've used the PVC spacer flanges. I use a wax seal in between the spacer flanges. I have also used these W/C flanges with a built-in sleeve sometimes.


 Gonna check on those. Ive had good luck with the Oatey repair flanges, anchor floor to make sure they stay down, especially with pvc or abs drains. Wire wheel inside of CI drain to smooth everything up for the seal ring. Not big on double wax rings, but refuse to triple.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Tommy plumber said:


> I've used the PVC spacer flanges. I use a wax seal in between the spacer flanges. I have also used these W/C flanges with a built-in sleeve sometimes.


Interesting... But don't those fit inside a 3" pipe? :whistling2:


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Redwood said:


> Interesting... But don't those fit inside a 3" pipe? :whistling2:


 






Fits 4" soil pipe.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Fits 4"


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