# Frickin Delta Shower Faucets



## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Been dealing with a bunch of these lately and am having a hard time getting the brass bonnet nut off. The water here is very hard and is freezing them up good. I've, knock on wood, been able to get all of them off with a pipe wrench holding the very edge of the nut and a backup wrench but I know someone has figured out an easier way.


----------



## Hillside (Jan 22, 2010)

Try some Pb blaster


----------



## Gettinit (May 9, 2012)

What series? Cutting them off with a mini hack usually.


----------



## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

I use slip joint pliers to hold back up, and a oil filter wrench to unscrew the bonnet. If that doesn't work because the bonnet is stuck I will cut it off with a mini hack saw and install a new bonnet with the cartridge.


----------



## Phat Cat (Apr 1, 2009)

Do what the handyman would do - 'Ma'am, you need a new shower valve."


----------



## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Gettinit said:


> What series? Cutting them off with a mini hack usually.


When you cut them off, where do you cut, the front or side with the threads are?


----------



## Gettinit (May 9, 2012)

gear junkie said:


> When you cut them off, where do you cut, the front or side with the threads are?


I cut them on an angle. The cut will have a spiral cut from back to front. I start at about the 12:00 position. This will put your mini at about a 45 angle and work out towards 3:00 if you are a right handed. I will try to get to the front of the cap nut as soon as possible which should be close to 3. If you go a little into the threads, no big deal but I try to get as close as possible and tap a screwdriver to open the crack. Then get a small chisel in there to pop it open. Once you have a small gap it should just twist off keeping the wedge in place. A little penetrating oil at this point will get where you want it to go. I have never had to cut it completely off. Just enough to get it spread.

Hope this helps. I use hot vinegar instead of penetrating oil.


----------



## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

I cut the top, then snap it with a flathead screwdriver and hammer


----------



## Titletownplumbr (Feb 16, 2011)

Will said:


> I cut the top, then *snap it with a flathead screwdriver and hammer*


Yes, but you should try a Dremel with a grinding wheel instead, you'll throw your mini hacksaw in the trash. I've cut off lots of corroded Delta bonnet nuts with a Dremel and they work great. You just have to make sure you don't go too deep, generally you just have to scribe deep enough to get a flat srewdriver in and the nut pops right apart.


----------



## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

gear junkie said:


> Been dealing with a bunch of these lately and am having a hard time getting the brass bonnet nut off. The water here is very hard and is freezing them up good. I've, knock on wood, been able to get all of them off with a pipe wrench holding the very edge of the nut and a backup wrench but I know someone has figured out an easier way.



Dynamite.


----------



## bartnc37 (Feb 24, 2009)

Just hit the nut with a heat gun for a minute or so and the nut spins tight off as that nut expands a heck of a lot quicker than the heavy brass body. Worst case you have to replace a melted cam but its usually ok.


----------



## Gettinit (May 9, 2012)

bartnc37 said:


> Just hit the nut with a heat gun for a minute or so and the nut spins tight off as that nut expands a heck of a lot quicker than the heavy brass body. Worst case you have to replace a melted cam but its usually ok.


I am sure this works but, the smell has got to be awful.


----------



## bartnc37 (Feb 24, 2009)

If you have a nozzle on the heat gun and aim it right on the threaded area the cam typically doesn't melt but it breaks the scale and lets it spin right off.


----------



## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

Will said:


> I use slip joint pliers to hold back up, and a oil filter wrench to unscrew the bonnet. If that doesn't work because the bonnet is stuck I will cut it off with a mini hack saw and install a new bonnet with the cartridge.


 
Good thinking I always get my strap wrench wet and use a channel lock as a backup.:thumbsup:


----------



## Gettinit (May 9, 2012)

I think he is talking about a #50 cap nut, what are you holding besides the nut? The sleeve will spin freely and bend.


----------



## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Gettinit said:


> I think he is talking about a #50 cap nut, what are you holding besides the nut? The sleeve will spin freely and bend.


I'm not up to my Delta terminology so I don't know what a #50 nut is but I was reffering to the bonnet nut on the delta shower valves such as on the "monitor"series.


----------



## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Sometimes I heat it, but usually I get buy with a couple of knipex type channel locks, they hold on multiple sides and don't crush the nut.


----------



## Gettinit (May 9, 2012)

gear junkie said:


> I'm not up to my Delta terminology so I don't know what a #50 nut is but I was reffering to the bonnet nut on the delta shower valves such as on the "monitor"series.


Oh, I am going back to the old ball and cam. Delta use to use the same cap nut for their lavatory, kitchen sinks, and tub/shower valves (1500 series I think). I am surprised you are having trouble with the monitor series. 

If that's the case, I am with Will all the way.


----------



## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

I've had a lot of really frozen ones too and I've had good luck with a strap wrench on the nut and channel locks for back-up. Any pliers on a really frozen up nut tend to pinch it and just make it more work.









Paul


----------



## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

I just hate those crappy Delta tub/shower valves with those weak point three tubings holding them together.. I have several old ones and use them to show customers those weak points and they will understand and shy away from them.
Replace them with the tried and proven code approved faucet..Moentrol all the way.


----------



## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

Titletownplumbr said:


> Yes, but you should try a Dremel with a grinding wheel instead, you'll throw your mini hacksaw in the trash. I've cut off lots of corroded Delta bonnet nuts with a Dremel and they work great. You just have to make sure you don't go too deep, generally you just have to scribe deep enough to get a flat srewdriver in and the nut pops right apart.



I agree a Dremel would work better, but for the few times I have to cut the bonnet off, I can't justify buying a specialty tool just for that when it really aint too hard to cut it off with a mini hack saw.


----------



## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

rjbphd said:


> I just hate those crappy Delta tub/shower valves with those weak point three tubings holding them together.. I have several old ones and use them to show customers those weak points and they will understand and shy away from them.
> Replace them with the tried and proven code approved faucet..Moentrol all the way.


You show a customer a product that Delta discontinued years ago to show the value of a new Moen? :blink:


----------



## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

plbgbiz said:


> You show a customer a product that Delta discontinued years ago to show the value of a new Moen? :blink:


 So they finally discontinued the shot azz design.. when to orange box and yep, they changed it. Now I'm gonna use those old ones to show there's no warranty on faucet after they tried to repaired it themselve.


----------



## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

I use heat...

It works!


----------



## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Redwood said:


> I use heat...
> 
> It works!


What do you do...just put a torch on it?


----------



## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

gear junkie said:


> What do you do...just put a torch on it?


Either that or a heat gun, it doesn't take much.


----------



## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

1/10000" expansion is all that is needed to free up the threads or sever their bond with the calcium build up. Cutting the bonnet seem like a lot of extra work and risk.


----------



## BigDave (Mar 24, 2012)

I've used all the methods described in this thread to remove the blasted Delta ring bonnet of all the Monitor series.
I can state that cutting slightly into the threads will not ruin the successful repair of the valve as the threads have nothing to do with the "sealing" of the cartridge. The seal is the large o-ring on the cartridge, INSIDE the valve body. You can however egg shape the valve body with excessive force using pliers to turn the ring. The bonnet's purpose is only to hold the cartridge in place and I always pipe dope the heck outta the threads when re-assembling.


----------



## Gettinit (May 9, 2012)

BigDave said:


> I've used all the methods described in this thread to remove the blasted Delta ring bonnet of all the Monitor series.
> I can state that cutting slightly into the threads will not ruin the successful repair of the valve as the threads have nothing to do with the "sealing" of the cartridge. The seal is the large o-ring on the cartridge, INSIDE the valve body. You can however egg shape the valve body with excessive force using pliers to turn the ring. The bonnet's purpose is only to hold the cartridge in place and I always pipe dope the heck outta the threads when re-assembling.


With that old red dope right? Kidding, use grease.


----------



## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

BigDave said:


> I've used all the methods described in this thread to remove the blasted Delta ring bonnet of all the Monitor series.
> I can state that cutting slightly into the threads will not ruin the successful repair of the valve as the threads have nothing to do with the "sealing" of the cartridge. The seal is the large o-ring on the cartridge, INSIDE the valve body. You can however egg shape the valve body with excessive force using pliers to turn the ring. The bonnet's purpose is only to hold the cartridge in place and I always pipe dope the heck outta the threads when re-assembling.


I use a silicone based grease for reassembling most things. It won't harden up over time and it makes the next disassembly/repair go much easier.

http://hdsupplysolutions.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product-silicone_plumbers_grease_2_oz-426813


----------



## ibeplumber (Sep 20, 2011)

I have also found that if you turn the hot water on for a couple minutes to heat it up before shutting the house down really helps, Try it.


----------



## beachplumber (Feb 7, 2010)

Torch


----------



## deerslayer (Mar 29, 2012)

I have cut a few off but I usually just use 2 large pairs of knipex pliers.
I will have to try the heat trick!


----------



## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

ibeplumber said:


> I have also found that if you turn the hot water on for a couple minutes to heat it up before shutting the house down really helps, Try it.


It works better with the heat coming from the outside to expand the nut while the inside threads are cold and contracted...


----------



## ibeplumber (Sep 20, 2011)

Redwood said:


> It works better with the heat coming from the outside to expand the nut while the inside threads are cold and contracted...


I have had success both ways over the years. If one doesn't work try the other. Just sharing what has helped me with others. May help someone out someday.


----------



## johnjh2o (Jul 20, 2012)

Dremel with a cut off wheel. Then grease threads before assembly. There are many uses for the dremel with a cut off wheel.

John


----------



## patrick88 (Oct 14, 2008)

Dremel with cut off wheel is great. It can be used for many things. 
Every time I install anthing thats threaded like the delta bonnet I apply plumbers grease. Well worth keeping a tin in the bag.


----------



## johnjh2o (Jul 20, 2012)

patrick88 said:


> Dremel with cut off wheel is great. It can be used for many things.
> Every time I install anthing thats threaded like the delta bonnet I apply plumbers grease. Well worth keeping a tin in the bag.


I think that's what I said.:thumbup:

John


----------



## brian phillips (Jun 27, 2012)

I have had a few problems with the delta cartridge fuseing to the inside of the brass valve housing, what a pain to get out.


----------



## southernplumber (Jul 19, 2012)

The works toilet bowl cleaner will break it loose


----------



## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

southernplumber said:


> The works toilet bowl cleaner will break it loose



Now how are you supposed to dunk it in the toilet?:laughing:

Please post an intro.


----------



## southernplumber (Jul 19, 2012)

Lol yea maybe more intel is needed I had a issue with one and was showed a neat trick works every-time put the works bowl cleaner in a spray bottle spray valve it takes literally 2 seconds you will notice the brass almost looks factory it cleans it so well then simply remove nut and cartridge


----------



## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

southernplumber said:


> Lol yea maybe more intel is needed


Yup we need that intro because without it we turn in to some real azzoles... :yes:


----------



## deerslayer (Mar 29, 2012)

Tried the heat trick today and it may work but it didn't for this one. After cutting it off I realized that original installer felt it necessary to paint it very neatly with rectorseal. The new one was put back with silicone grease!


----------



## Ruudplumber (Feb 21, 2011)

just tap it with a wood chisel a couple times around the edge to loosen it. works great.


----------

