# Securing outside faucets



## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

I am wondering what you do to secure an outside faucet when there seems to be a lack of solid materials? With all the cheap construction out there, someone has to have a awesome solution to the problem. Its a wonder these houses don't blow down with no plywood sheathing. 

I do sometimes slid a piece of plywood under the siding, if it is possible without creating a bulge. Have been considering sheet metal, but. :huh: Then there is always cutting siding, installing a j-block and then putting the faucet back on. But with the goal to keep prices and work comparable, I am looking for a better way.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

Drop eared 90????:blink:


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## plumb nutz (Jan 28, 2011)

If I'm working on an outside faucet, 9 times outta 10 I'm replacing it. I always work from the inside out so securing the faucet is no big deal.

If its flapping in the wind when I get there and the outside wall is that crappy fiberboard I can't help them if there is no access to it from the rear. If I can get to it I ether use a stout bracket to secure or a ring clamp up tight against the wall if that works better like with block


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## Pipe Rat (Apr 5, 2009)

I use silicone, duct tape and Mighty Putty. Awesome combination. :laughing:


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

Pipe Rat said:


> I use silicone, duct tape and Mighty Putty. Awesome combination. :laughing:


"Sillyduckputty" for short.....


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

Try ball bearings...


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

What, no foam o fill?



Pipe Rat said:


> I use silicone, duct tape and Mighty Putty. Awesome combination. :laughing:


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## Plumber Jim (Jun 19, 2008)

I the WB has a clamp you can attach to the pipe on the inside like for bonding an electrical ground then has 2 screws you tighten to pull it in. really depends on the job.


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

18" drywall screws and liquid nails.


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

Ta Da. 

http://www.hosebibbmountingplate.com/home.html

Use them quite a bit. They work great.


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## Pipe Dreams (Feb 10, 2011)

RealLivePlumber said:


> Ta Da.
> 
> http://www.hosebibbmountingplate.com/home.html
> 
> Use them quite a bit. They work great.


I use them all the time as well. It's a small NJ based company that pushes the product to local suppliers so they may not be as readily available as they are to you and I. I'm sure you could order a case though.

I stand corrected...apparently they've made it all the way to Illinois.


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## Pipe Dreams (Feb 10, 2011)

Killertoiletspider said:


> 18" drywall screws and liquid nails.


Drywall screws huh? They give the siding that nice rust-ic look.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

RealLivePlumber said:


> Ta Da.
> 
> http://www.hosebibbmountingplate.com/home.html
> 
> Use them quite a bit. They work great.


I have a few on my truck. I seldom do resi, but they also work on pole buildings, too.


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

yep and 18 inch ones too. 




Pipe Dreams said:


> Drywall screws huh? They give the siding that nice rust-ic look.


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## Pipe Dreams (Feb 10, 2011)

house plumber said:


> yep and 18 inch ones too.


Sure to hit something :thumbsup:


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

Pipe Dreams said:


> Drywall screws huh? They give the siding that nice rust-ic look.



I use galvanized ones, I'm not a barbarian.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

ahhh screw it.


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

Killertoiletspider said:


> I use galvanized ones, I'm not a barbarian.


:laughing:


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

RealLivePlumber said:


> Ta Da.
> 
> http://www.hosebibbmountingplate.com/home.html
> 
> Use them quite a bit. They work great.


That looks like a good option to me. I know I have seen them local, but just can't remember where. I suppose I can just order online.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Plumber Jim said:


> I the WB has a clamp you can attach to the pipe on the inside like for bonding an electrical ground then has 2 screws you tighten to pull it in. really depends on the job.


 Arrowhead has just started selling those kits around here -- I got one free as a sample a week or so ago -- It's sitting on the trucks dash.

As for backing -- If I can't somehow affix the HB with a well supported drop ear 90, then I pin a 2X4 block to the interior of the rim joist and drill it out with a 1-3/8" bit. This gives me solid backing to drive in 2" stainless screws.

It's not ideal, but if it's in a rim joist, then at least it's accessible from the crawlspace.


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## red_devil (Mar 23, 2011)

pl premium :thumbup::no:


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

Something works great for me though admittidly I don't use it every day is to get some copper roofing metal. I cut it round apprx 3.5 to 4" circular and using 2" PVC PIPE gently tap in a inner circle, drill out the center and fasten to building and fasten faucet to this plate. The customers love them trust me. And of course I charge well for it. The copper plate I use I scrounged off tear downs, never paid a dime. Caution,,, copper costmetics does not fit every houses appearance.


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## M5Plumb (Oct 2, 2008)

mpsllc said:


> Something works great for me though admittidly I don't use it every day is to get some copper roofing metal. I cut it round apprx 3.5 to 4" circular and using 2" PVC PIPE gently tap in a inner circle, drill out the center and fasten to building and fasten faucet to this plate. The customers love them trust me. And of course I charge well for it. The copper plate I use I scrounged off tear downs, never paid a dime. Caution,,, copper costmetics does not fit every houses appearance.


I like this idea, up here in the Northwest a lot of folks are all over the rustic copper look.


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

I also scrounge "Azek" trim board at job sites. It is usually laying all over the place when we are doing a final. Or in the dumpster. The carpenters use alot of 1/2" now. (it comes in 4' x 8' sheets.) You can make up a nice trim plate pretty quick. And its free.


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

mpsllc said:


> Something works great for me though admittidly I don't use it every day is to get some copper roofing metal. I cut it round apprx 3.5 to 4" circular and using 2" PVC PIPE gently tap in a inner circle, drill out the center and fasten to building and fasten faucet to this plate. The customers love them trust me. And of course I charge well for it. The copper plate I use I scrounged off tear downs, never paid a dime. Caution,,, copper costmetics does not fit every houses appearance.


Next time you get a chance, I'd like to see a picture of this....


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## Plumbersteve (Jan 25, 2011)

Airgap said:


> Next time you get a chance, I'd like to see a picture of this....


Me too sounds cool. 

What about a bell hanger and a pipe strap?


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## suzie (Sep 1, 2010)

I secure from the inside with sioux straps or slide brace


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

The problem I am addressing is securing a faucet that has no solid wall behind it, where you screw it to the wall. If the faucet is able to be secured inside, then I strap, or brace.


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## suzie (Sep 1, 2010)

what's behind the siding builtrite? some of these new homes you could get in with a sharp utility knife


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

I have had a run of homes that seem to have nothing, or even if they do the hole is so big a screw would never hit it. I like the idea of those plates that were posted, but they are not always going to work either, if there is no wood behind it. 

Example: Yesterday I had a faucet that the plumbing ran through


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

Airgap said:


> Next time you get a chance, I'd like to see a picture of this....


 I'll make one and post a pic. I'm doing continued education today and tommorrow (Saturday) but will try for Sunday.


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## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

Inide I am guessing tha you are talking about sillcocks and boiler drains and not frost frees?Frostfrees normally are stubbed out of a wood plate in a basement and should not be a problem.

I use stainless steel screws and a toggle end with sillcocks.


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

Indie said:


> The problem I am addressing is securing a faucet that has no solid wall behind it, where you screw it to the wall. If the faucet is able to be secured inside, then I strap, or brace.


 
I would go with uni-strut with a 7/8" OD copper coated clamp. The strut would be bolted or screwed to the sill or joists......


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## Marlin (Aug 14, 2008)

Epoxy coated screws 90% of the time. Other times you just have to be creative, maybe toggle bolts would work in the situation you're talking about?


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

*Handmade copper Cill cock plates*



mpsllc said:


> Something works great for me though admittidly I don't use it every day is to get some copper roofing metal. I cut it round apprx 3.5 to 4" circular and using 2" PVC PIPE gently tap in a inner circle (for simple design only), drill out the center and fasten to building and fasten faucet to this plate. The customers love them trust me. And of course I charge well for it. The copper plate I use I scrounged off tear downs, never paid a dime. Caution,,, copper costmetics does not fit every houses appearance but most.


 
This post was in 04/28/11. Several of the guys here in PZ asked for pics so here they are. One faucet of three I used the plate on. As you can see they still look great. This house is of a spanish design so these fit very well. Sorry it took me so long.


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## sikxsevn (Jun 23, 2009)

Where's the vacuum breaker?

Sent from my iPhon


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

sikxsevn said:


> Where's the vacuum breaker?
> 
> Sent from my iPhon


 The powers that be don't care one way or the other about them here on typical repairs. New work or remods is a differentr story. 
I should probably start using them.


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