# 1.5



## jnohs (Jan 27, 2012)

Let the hunger games begin. Another residential repipe.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Condinsate? Still don't get cast over PVC in a situation like that.


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

Is that the washing machine drain line in the smaller PVC?


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## tim666 (Mar 11, 2014)

God bless the aav. Saving "plumbers" from having to put thought and planning into their work.


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## jnohs (Jan 27, 2012)

The pvc is existing. We installed the cast iron as all the horizontal piping was leaking. The 1inch pvc is a washing machine connection. As for the AAV. There is no existing vent through the roof or a place where I can connect to the stack with out opening walls. So for saving me planing it is not saving any planing it is 100% accepiable code. And it is installled properly. Your fantasy land of over selling for pointless items is a complete waste of time and money.


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## tim666 (Mar 11, 2014)

No worries. The handymen around here use them too. You can upsell them on cast iron but upselling a vented drainage system is just going too far I guess


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

AAV's are code out here. Now, new construction I'd much rather revent, but if someone wants to remodel their kitchen, and are getting bids from other plumbers, the one that wants to gut their walls adding extra drywall repair is going to loose no matter what.

I've never done new construction, honestly wouldn't like it, however I have done a few whole house guts before. In that situation we always revent.

I had the displeasure of servicing a high end Asian restaurant years ago. About every six months I would have to change 12 AAV's because the place smelled like sewer gas. Wasn't the floor drains or anything simple. Never did figure out what in the system was causing the failures.

Never seen a washer discharge run in PVC before.


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## ace4548 (Feb 10, 2015)

It may be an optical illusion but, is that 3" kicked a little in the coupling? Could be shadows, but looks like it's not pitching as much as existing. Otherwise it looks good. If AAVs are code there, then unfortunately in a situation like this, probably have to use it to get job... Here, I still would have to have it above flood plain or 38" above floor... That's our code though . So many different codes , I try not to look for that, unless I think it poses a health risk.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Two years ago we did a restaurant, bar sink was on an AAV. Even though we had it the required height above flood, the health department wanted it higher per their code. No big deal, I just don't like how code can be met and another code supersedes another. Make code code, end of story.

I do agree about AAV's needing to be above flood, however I have seen sinks backed up well above them and they don't leak. Not to mention the make good clean outs allowing you to flush while cabling.


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## Fatpat (Nov 1, 2015)

UPC requires a support with in 18" of a No HuB band. Over time your PVC/Cast Transition Bands will pull and sag.


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## Fatpat (Nov 1, 2015)

That's if your used transition bands....


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Personally I don't agree with that type of check. Canplas or similar. Looks like a pit check, but I don't know everything.


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

Since you can't get the AAV above flood level of the other fixtures, wouldn't it make more sense to put the check valve after it?


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Debo22 said:


> Since you can't get the AAV above flood level of the other fixtures, wouldn't it make more sense to put the check valve after it?


Check downstream of the vent. Now if there's a high wall main line connected to a city sewer, in a basement, if the laundry stack is above ground level it must be vented but not checked.

Lots of homes around here were on septic at one time and converted to city. What a PITA when you have to cable a high wall clean out 5' up going out the back of the house wrapping around one side. A house that is 30' from the city sewer can be 150' from the clean out. You know the dangers of how much cable between machine and clean out... imagin six foot and kicking the auto feed with your foot. I've even had to clean a trailer sewer laying on my back guiding the cable with both hands and my boots shouting commands to the maintenance guy "Forward! Neutral! Reverse! Let off the peddle, stop the drum!" No more! Not worth it.


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## jnohs (Jan 27, 2012)

tim666 said:


> No worries. The handymen around here use them too. You can upsell them on cast iron but upselling a vented drainage system is just going too far I guess


The cast is not an up sell. To me and my comppany it is the only sell. Installation and service friendly. Extream longevity service life. Every fixture has a VTR or AAV when allowed or stack vented when allowed or wet vented when allowed or horizontial wet vented when allowed. As some one mention this is a recipe a retro fit. If walls on the 2nd floor are open then a VTR or fixture vents would be installed on every fixture.


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## jnohs (Jan 27, 2012)

P.S. I don't sell anything I fix peoples plumbing problems with solutions that meet or exceed code.


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## HonestPlumb (Jan 25, 2015)

Nothing against your work jnohs, you are installing as per code. The changes that have taken place in the code in the last 25 years, that have made allowable what was once a violation, has made it easier in certain respects to accomplish the job, without sacrificing the safety factors. In other respects the changes have made it easier to accomplish the job, without having the knowledge and skill that was once needed to be a Master Plumber.


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## dhal22 (Jul 30, 2010)

jnohs said:


> Let the hunger games begin. Another residential repipe.


Again, kudos to you for continuing to post here after the difficult first few posts. We all love discussing plumbing and without content there is nothing to discuss. Many have never returned after code or quality arguments. 

And I use pvc/ci adapters every time I connect the 2 different pipes.:whistling2::yes:


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## ace4548 (Feb 10, 2015)

Why not regular no hub bands? I'm curious why the heavy duty ones everywhere.. I like seeing it, as they are much stronger, but cost wise, it's higher on the customer.
We only use the heavy duty bands on storm, and sometimes to transition.


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## Eddy k (Jan 30, 2015)

ace4548 said:


> Why not regular no hub bands? I'm curious why the heavy duty ones everywhere.. I like seeing it, as they are much stronger, but cost wise, it's higher on the customer.
> We only use the heavy duty bands on storm, and sometimes to transition.


I only use them when speced out, or if there extras in the shop when I am doing no hub. Most of our local engineers only spec them out on government and hospital work. Very pricey, would never put in a house. Probably would never put no hub in a house.


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## Eddy k (Jan 30, 2015)

Fatpat said:


> UPC requires a support with in 18" of a No HuB band. Over time your PVC/Cast Transition Bands will pull and sag.


That is a biggie here with our inspectors. Have to go out of your way sometimes to get the right amount of hangers in the right spots. Lots of extra strut in bar joists sometimes.


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## jnohs (Jan 27, 2012)

On LI NY. Certain towns you must have cast iron. We use transition bands on sizes 3" and up. The difference in size with 2" and smaller pipe with pvc, cast, and iron is smaller then the tolerance of transition couplings engineering. Now that is not going to fly but with me it does. A 4 band husky clamp is better then a fernco. And most supply house do not carry pk22's let Long 112 also. Those are 2 inch cast pvc x cast adaptors. The no hub works well. Yesterday did a repipe. Then got a call later that day. A 4 inch long sweep had hairline crack. And developed a leak. Pulled and replaced in 12 min. 123. 1 of the exact reasons why I use cast. Also I like to try to standardize as much as possiable. And for that. Around hear there is only one product that is always allowed, in any situation I come across. Cast is the answer every time. For 2 inch and smaller depending on the job but still 60% of the work is done in cast also. It is the same reason I use propress. We use copper copper copper. It is always code compliant, ridged allows for an easy install. Much easier to brace and work with. Espically when u do not need a torch.


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## jnohs (Jan 27, 2012)

Oh yah did I mention. Plumbing Maffia on FB. Is the exact reason this place is dead now.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

jnohs said:


> On LI NY. Certain towns you must have cast iron. We use transition bands on sizes 3" and up. The difference in size with 2" and smaller pipe with pvc, cast, and iron is smaller then the tolerance of transition couplings engineering. Now that is not going to fly but with me it does. A 4 band husky clamp is better then a fernco. And most supply house do not carry pk22's let Long 112 also. Those are 2 inch cast pvc x cast adaptors. The no hub works well. Yesterday did a repipe. Then got a call later that day. A 4 inch long sweep had hairline crack. And developed a leak. Pulled and replaced in 12 min. 123. 1 of the exact reasons why I use cast. Also I like to try to standardize as much as possiable. And for that. Around hear there is only one product that is always allowed, in any situation I come across. Cast is the answer every time. For 2 inch and smaller depending on the job but still 60% of the work is done in cast also. It is the same reason I use propress. We use copper copper copper. It is always code compliant, ridged allows for an easy install. Much easier to brace and work with. Espically when u do not need a torch.


I like the no hub cast pipe,in bldings and houses unfortunately it is not cost effective in my area,what I love about cast iron is you don't hear a waterfall each time a toilet is flushed ESP. In a basement,I love how you don't hear water gushing thru the pipe like pvc,also I love how cast iron looks after it is put in,nice and neat and strong,good job I say,collect your money and go to the next one


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