# Tie into cast iron



## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

OK. I have to tie into a 3" x 2" cast iron fitting so I can run my PVC. I need to remove the 1-1/2" galvanized pipe which is completely cloged up that has been installed with oakum and lead then try to attatch a 2" PVC to the cast iron hub because I have a shower drain that must run into it.. I was thinking a fernco to do this though the supply houses say I cant because the fernco wont go over the outside the hub. My other option was to insert the 2" PVC into the hub and reset the oakum then pour lead around the PVC. *I CAN NOT* remove the cast iron without disturbing the downstairs walls which I really do not want to do.

Also what is the best way to install a PVC toilet flange into a cast iron fitting? I know they have those screw in type with the rubber gasket. I may use that with some duck grease on the rubber.

Any thoughts?


----------



## "DAPlumber" 101 (Sep 4, 2008)

USP45 said:


> OK. I have to tie into a 3" x 2" cast iron fitting so I can run my PVC. I need to remove the 1-1/2" galvanized pipe which is completely clogged up that has been installed with oakum and lead then try to attach a 2" PVC to the cast iron hub because I have a shower drain that must run into it.. I was thinking a fernco to do this though the supply houses say I cant because the fernco wont go over the outside the hub. My other option was to insert the 2" PVC into the hub and reset the oakum then pour lead around the PVC. *I CAN NOT* remove the cast iron without disturbing the downstairs walls which I really do not want to do.
> 
> Also what is the best way to install a PVC toilet flange into a cast iron fitting? I know they have those screw in type with the rubber gasket. I may use that with some duck grease on the rubber.
> 
> Any thoughts?


Instead of putting a 2" piece of pvc into 2" hub and leading around it get a 2" galv nipple and then after it is leaded in use your fernco or clamp all.:thumbup: I have seen pvc leaded in but your taking a chance do to the extreme heat.


----------



## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

Our code calls for the proper transition fitting, so I would use a 2" PVC hub adpt and pour a lead joint.

Those bolt in closet flanges are a code violation here, why not just install another CI flange?


----------



## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

Killertoiletspider said:


> Our code calls for the proper transition fitting, so I would use a 2" PVC hub adpt and pour a lead joint.
> 
> Those bolt in closet flanges are a code violation here, why not just install another CI flange?


Agreed. One thousand percent.


----------



## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

Use a 2" seal tight, thats what I would use.


----------



## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

I never had a heat issue caulking in PVC in a CI hub. They look quite nice when done. If it's in a house they might not like the smell though. I have had success with the seal tites

I wouldn't use a fernco on the outside of the hub. Big edge there to catch all kinds of stuff on. As well as not being code compliant here.


----------



## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

This is the fernco donut, I call them seal tights, fit into the hub of cast. Comes in many sizes.


----------



## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

Yup. Those babies fit nice and tight. I usually have to put some gasketed pipe lube on the pvc to get it in. Chamfered end helps temendously.


----------



## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

Yep pipe dope is needed to persuade the pipe to bottom out in it.


----------



## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

Code violation to use a gasket above ground in Chicago, IL would know state code better than I.


----------



## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

I have used em but, I'm not entirely sure they are code compliant here in IL. I'll have to break out the code book.


----------



## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

There code approved here, not sure what VA has to say about them.


----------



## I'mYourTourGuide (Jun 23, 2008)

We used a pipe rasp for 4" sch40 pvc in a school for setting floor drains and cleanouts. .. . and tube grease to pop 'em on the pipe.


----------



## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

They make frenco couplings that fit over the hub USP45, at least they do here. Tie seals would be the way to go if its code complinat up there.


----------



## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

They are compliant here. Duh! I only set about a thousand FD's that use em.


----------



## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

Floor sinks too I imagine:thumbup:


----------



## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

ILPlumber said:


> They are compliant here. Duh! I only set about a thousand FD's that use em.


That would be below grade, which is legal in Chicago, they are only illegal above grade.


----------



## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

Ron The Plumber said:


> This is the fernco donut, I call them seal tights, fit into the hub of cast. Comes in many sizes.


Been a while, but Ron hit the nail on the head! I now remember those things!

Thanks!

Also this is not a job that will be inspected, but I wanted to do it right anyway.


----------



## masterk (Jun 20, 2008)

We call them soil pipe gaskets.
A donut is the rubber that goes on the outside of 4" pvc and slides inside the 6" teracotta when doing a sewer line replacement.


----------



## Marlin (Aug 14, 2008)

We are allowed to use them above ground here. They just have to be supported in a way that prevents them from coming apart should the system be pressurized. Sometimes they do not fit in the older cast iron hubs, you can order them in all different sizes but it's easier to just do a lead joint then wait three days for the gasket to come in.


----------



## Herk (Jun 12, 2008)

Getting the hub cleaned out to use the seal-tite can be a problem, too. I recently was chiseling on the lead when the hub broke off out of the fitting. You'd think the fitting would have been stronger. Some of this old stuff can be beyond repair.

Then, the seal-tite I used was extremely tight. I've used them in the past with no problems. Some lube like duck butter and chamfering the end of the pipe is absolutely necessary.

As for the flange - always best if you can cut a pipe and connect with a no-hub and then up with the flange, either on the horizontal with a new elbow or on the vertical. But I understand that sometimes it's not accessible.


----------

