# electric point of use for dishwasher?



## klempner (Mar 4, 2011)

Since tankless require, say, 1/2 gpm to activate, need to make sure a point of use electric serving a kitchen faucet and dishwasher would activate when dishwasher fills. Any one know gpm fill rate for dishwashers? Thanks.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

klempner said:


> Since tankless require, say, 1/2 gpm to activate, need to make sure a point of use electric serving a kitchen faucet and dishwasher would activate when dishwasher fills. Any one know gpm fill rate for dishwashers? Thanks.


U need to get the exact specs of the tankless POU. To ensure it can support a dishwasher and KF, next tell us what type of DW it is and who makes it, the dishwasher pulls more then 1/2 gpm when filling I can tell you that, but it important to know the exact flow so the POU can be sized properly. Also u need to take into account the flow off the KF. Finally why are you installing an electric POU, a better solution might be brought up if we have some more info.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

The dishwasher would probably be full by about the time the tankless starts having hot water available at the point of use...

Then everything would be cool again for the next fill cycle...

How is hot water provided to the rest of the house?


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## klempner (Mar 4, 2011)

copper pipes under slab on grade. copper pipe to kitchen leaking under slab. options: 1. jackhammer, 2. reroute through attic with pex, 3. eliminate run and add point of use tank. 4. eliminate run and add point of use tankless.

option 1 would ruin a wood floor, and same line may fail again at some point, requiring ruining wood floor yet again. option 2 is what nearly everyone opts for, when possible. 3. no room for a 10 gallon tank, only a 6. 4. cheapest option, at least shortterm, IF house electrical system can accommodate.

re: option 4, yes, they understand flow rate is minimal. yes, they understand the seasonal fluctuation.

If dishwasher is going to fill with cold water no matter how close a point of use is, then i guess it's a moot point whether the fill rate is enough to activate the heater.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

klempner said:


> copper pipes under slab on grade. copper pipe to kitchen leaking under slab. options: 1. jackhammer, 2. reroute through attic with pex, 3. eliminate run and add point of use tank. 4. eliminate run and add point of use tankless.
> 
> option 1 would ruin a wood floor, and same line may fail again at some point, requiring ruining wood floor yet again. option 2 is what nearly everyone opts for, when possible. 3. no room for a 10 gallon tank, only a 6. 4. cheapest option, at least shortterm, IF house electrical system can accommodate.
> 
> ...


I would re route the hot and cold through the attic that way there's no doubt in Anyones mind if it will work or not


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

There is a good reason why almost everyone opts for option #2... :yes:


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## xyleman (Feb 2, 2011)

its a shot in the dark but if it works you can always pull a new line of pex on the end of old copper with a come along, only had it work a couple of times, it is alot of work but sweet if it works.usually end up going with option 2.


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