# Calling all Well Experts



## mccmech (Jul 6, 2011)

I need the help of any experts on well pump issues. I myself have no diagnostic experience with them. HO called me complaining of drop off of pressure while taking shower. states pressure does come back up but that this condition has never happened until now. The well has a submersible pump, Wel-X-Trol WX-251 tank. The manuf. tag on the tank indicated it's from 2002. When I arrived at house pressure gauge read 52 psi. Had ho run a couple fixtures & pressure dropped to 46psi at which time the pump kicked in & pressure went up to 54 psi before kicking off. Is there a possibility of a bad bladder in the tank causing the pressure drop ho is experiencing. Any other possible suspects? Thanks in advance for any input.


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## Plumber patt (Jan 26, 2011)

Typically, the cut in and cut off pressure is 20 psi, so if the pump is turning on at 46psi, it should be shutting off at 66psi, a quick way to test the bladder is, if you push in the snifter valve at the top for a split second, and water comes out, your bladder is shot, if not then the bladder is fine, you can also drain the entire tank down, and check the pre charge, which is how much air is in the tank without water, it should be 2 psi lower than your cut in pressure, so if your pump turns on at 46 psi, then there should be 44 psi in the tank


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

First off the switch should be a 30/50 meaning it comes on when it drops to 30 psi and goes off at 50 psi. Its supposed to have a 20 psi differential. This one only has a 6 psi differential which means someone messed it up. Replacing it is way easier than trying to re set it. 

Check the bladder. Drain the water off so there is no pressure on it. There should be 2 psi less than the cut in pressure. So with a 30/50 switch which is standard for a submersible pump the tank will read 28 psi. Also check the tank by depressing the shrader valve. If water comes out then the bladder is broken. Try moving the tank after its been drained down too, if it feels heavy it is water logged and needs to be replaced.

Check the 1/4" pipe that feeds the pressure switch Sometimes this will get clogged with sediment. 

The pump should handle a 30/50 switch. If you install a new switch and the pump cant reach 50 psi, change the pump as the impellers are going bad. Also check to see if the pumps check valve is holding by building up pressure, then when it cuts off see if the pressure drops (Providing there are no leaks under the house or something is running)


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## mccmech (Jul 6, 2011)

Plumber patt said:


> Typically, the cut in and cut off pressure is 20 psi, so if the pump is turning on at 46psi, it should be shutting off at 66psi, a quick way to test the bladder is, if you push in the snifter valve at the top for a split second, and water comes out, your bladder is shot, if not then the bladder is fine, you can also drain the entire tank down, and check the pre charge, which is how much air is in the tank without water, it should be 2 psi lower than your cut in pressure, so if your pump turns on at 46 psi, then there should be 44 psi in the tank



Thank you for your input. If I may ask another question. Assuming I get no water when I push in the snifter valve, is it an icorrect assumption that the tank is NOT bad. What would other possible causes for the erratic pressure drop be?


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## gitnerdun (Nov 5, 2008)

mccmech said:


> What would other possible causes for the erratic pressure drop be?


The above posts have plenty of suggestions, all good ones, now you need to go and troubleshoot that bad boy like a pro:thumbup:


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

It sounds like a funny tank, not to say that the switch could be bad. Follow above suggestions. 

Turn the water off get a proper reading from tank. 

Bill I believe the OP mentioned a submersible. Around here the well companies are putting it wells and setting them at 50-70 psi. 

To the OP. If you cannot give a simple diagnostic for the Homeowner, then you need to be honest with them and pass to a well company. There is no shame in it, I do it regular. Even though I know how to fix all the about ground stuff, if a submersible comes into question, I bow out. 


The procedure I learned. 

1. Always turn off the water, bleed the system down and take note of the Cut on pressure, and then check the tank pressure. There is no sense in dicking around "Trying" other stuff until you have hard data. 

2. If there is no pressure gauge, add one. You have to know what its doing. 

3. Check the contacts on the switch, the can and do go bad. 

Never move to any other diagnostic until you know step one.


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

mccmech said:


> I need the help of any experts <snip>
> 
> Sounds like a pressure switch riser nipple is blocked. Remove the pressure switch and nipple as necessary, clean or replace. Usually it's a 1/4 x 3 or 4 brass. Of course before spending time do as other posts state.


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## Plumber patt (Jan 26, 2011)

Well? How did it go? Any luck?


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

Cloged nipple will result in water trickling out of faucets then suddenly gushing out, then back to trickling.


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

jet pumps are a real boitch, but I like them better than a submersible


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## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

actually a clogged nipple on the switch will allow the pump to run and run building up a namount of pressure

Someone played with the differential or the pressure gauge is bad , it is only a 4 dollar gauge.

Pushing in the snifter valve is a good way to check however a collasped bladder can prevent the water from shooting out of it. Best bet turn off the water ,drain the system down and test the air in the bladder.


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## mccmech (Jul 6, 2011)

Plumber patt said:


> Well? How did it go? Any luck?



Can't get back in until Friday. I'll follow-up though. Thanks for all of you people's input.


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