# boiler tech?



## roving plumber (Apr 25, 2011)

Looking for a little guidance from any boiler technicians out there, I have had the idea of getting into boiler work such as repair/replacement/re-pipe. I have experience with boilers mostly residential and have done piping for commercial cast systems also have gas piping experience. I would be looking to hire on with a company that does this type of work, my question would be to put myself through the training or try to hire on with a company that would train?. I have seen companies looking to hire boiler techs, as having done most of my plumbing in the north west I have not heard of any boiler schools. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


----------



## ]3ones (Jun 9, 2011)

Check with your local UA hall they should be offering courses. If your not a member they're not to expensive and the information and knowledge you gain is real good.


----------



## intohotwater (Feb 10, 2012)

roving plumber said:


> Looking for a little guidance from any boiler technicians out there, I have had the idea of getting into boiler work such as repair/replacement/re-pipe. I have experience with boilers mostly residential and have done piping for commercial cast systems also have gas piping experience. I would be looking to hire on with a company that does this type of work, my question would be to put myself through the training or try to hire on with a company that would train?. I have seen companies looking to hire boiler techs, as having done most of my plumbing in the north west I have not heard of any boiler schools. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


First of all you need to learn as much as can by reading boiler information. Learn how to read a combustion analyzer. Learn how to read wiring diagrams and the use of an electrical tester. Boiler companies can only teach so much in the time given and there are a lot of really good courses. Learn controls from the simplest to building automation. Even when they come to your town as a " sales pitch" just know you can always learn something. Boiler reps are a good source of information. I have on the past had to book personal time off to attend courses. It takes a lot of extra hard work to be a oiler tech but if this is your passion than it won't seem like work. 
I'm a boiler geek at heart. If you have any question don't ever be afraid to ask.


----------



## walker426 (Oct 17, 2011)

intohotwater said:


> First of all you need to learn as much as can by reading boiler information. Learn how to read a combustion analyzer. Learn how to read wiring diagrams and the use of an electrical tester. Boiler companies can only teach so much in the time given and there are a lot of really good courses. Learn controls from the simplest to building automation. Even when they come to your town as a " sales pitch" just know you can always learn something. Boiler reps are a good source of information. I have on the past had to book personal time off to attend courses. It takes a lot of extra hard work to be a oiler tech but if this is your passion than it won't seem like work.
> I'm a boiler geek at heart. If you have any question don't ever be afraid to ask.


 Got a call today from a customer with a 3 story house that is constantly having air in the radiators could the air separator be plugged up and not working what could be causing the air to get into the system


----------



## trick1 (Sep 18, 2008)

Check the static fill pressure.

Should be height from boiler to highest radiator times .433 plus 4.


----------



## intohotwater (Feb 10, 2012)

An easy number to remember is 5psi for every 10 feet. It a rounded up number that's easy to use. So at three stories and the pressure at the lowest point is 15psi the top story will be5 psi. I like to keep all my systems at 5 psi or greater on the highest level. Watch that the lowest pressure needed is greater than the relief valve rating. If your system is at 0 to 2 psi at the highest point the flow going past an faulty auto air vent will pull air into the system.


----------



## walker426 (Oct 17, 2011)

intohotwater said:


> An easy number to remember is 5psi for every 10 feet. It a rounded up number that's easy to use. So at three stories and the pressure at the lowest point is 15psi the top story will be5 psi. I like to keep all my systems at 5 psi or greater on the highest level. Watch that the lowest pressure needed is greater than the relief valve rating. If your system is at 0 to 2 psi at the highest point the flow going past an faulty auto air vent will pull air into the system.


I know there is no auto air vents on any rads in this house just a taco vortech separator in basement by boiler going out there tomorrow am to see what i can do


----------



## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Where's the pump located at? What brand boiler is it? And can you take any pictures of the boiler and the near boiler pipings?


----------



## intohotwater (Feb 10, 2012)

Make sure the system pressure is up. You may have to go as far as flushing the system pushing the air out at the upper levels. It may come down to installing air vents at the highest point.


----------



## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Installing air vent(s) on system with steel expanison tank and improper boiler system piping will compound the problem.


----------



## intohotwater (Feb 10, 2012)

Your saying that air from the expansion tank will bleed out on a closed system? The expansion tank is not an issue on a closed system due to the tank being half to two thirds full of water separating the air cushion from the system.


----------



## intohotwater (Feb 10, 2012)

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd118/JeffPicks/GeeVeeExample.jpg


----------



## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

I'm talking about the steel expaniosn tank... not the pre-charged bladder type tank.


----------



## intohotwater (Feb 10, 2012)

Yup so am I. I work on hundreds of systems with that style system ( mostly commercial buildings). Steel expansion tank on the bottom with only an air cushion ( no rubber between the air and water ) and air vents at the highest point. No issues what so ever.


----------



## intohotwater (Feb 10, 2012)

intohotwater said:


> Yup so am I. I work on hundreds of systems with that style system ( mostly commercial buildings). Steel expansion tank on the bottom with only an air cushion ( no rubber between the air and water ) and air vents at the highest point. No issues what so ever.


If anything air can leach into the closed system and make its way to the upper floors thus the air vents will bleed that out maintaining flow in the system. The down fall is making sure the expansion tan does not become water logged over time.


----------



## walker426 (Oct 17, 2011)

rjbphd said:


> Where's the pump located at? What brand boiler is it? And can you take any pictures of the boiler and the near boiler pipings?


 I will take pictures of the boiler tomorrow not sure what brand it is I know for sure it is a condensing boiler with domestic hot water tied into it if I had to guess the pumps are 007 or equivalent I did a lot of plumbing in the house and this is all just coming back to me from recollection of being in their basement bladder style expansion tank if I remember correctly floor model


----------



## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

walker426 said:


> I will take pictures of the boiler tomorrow not sure what brand it is I know for sure it is a condensing boiler with domestic hot water tied into it if I had to guess the pumps are 007 or equivalent I did a lot of plumbing in the house and this is all just coming back to me from recollection of being in their basement bladder style expansion tank if I remember correctly floor model


 Ill wait for your pictures


----------



## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

intohotwater said:


> If anything air can leach into the closed system and make its way to the upper floors thus the air vents will bleed that out maintaining flow in the system. The down fall is making sure the expansion tan does not become water logged over time.


 If the pump(s) on the return side of boiler with steel tank lacking atf fitting, u will have chroic air problem, esp if you are constantly draining the waterlogged tank.


----------



## intohotwater (Feb 10, 2012)

Hopefully the expansion tank is on the suction side of the pump as per the hydronic code.


----------



## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

intohotwater said:


> Hopefully the expansion tank is on the suction side of the pump as per the hydronic code.


 That's correct... however, what hydronic code? By whom? Seems a lot of installers don't know this.


----------



## walker426 (Oct 17, 2011)

intohotwater said:


> Hopefully the expansion tank is on the suction side of the pump as per the hydronic code.


 The system was installed by a reputable hydronics contractor in cleveland we shall see tomorrow am


----------



## intohotwater (Feb 10, 2012)

rjbphd said:


> That's correct... however, what hydronic code? By whom? Seems a lot of installers don't know this.


Sorry Canadian code.


----------



## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Interesting, would love to get my hands on that book or whatever.. where can I get one, if avaiable?


----------



## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

rjbphd said:


> Interesting, would love to get my hands on that book or whatever.. where can I get one, if avaiable?


 Btw, its always in Europe with pumping away from ponpc, however, the late Gil Carlson ( from B&G) wrote about it and Dan Holohan rewrote it and spread the word.


----------



## intohotwater (Feb 10, 2012)

rjbphd said:


> Btw, its always in Europe with pumping away from ponpc, however, the late Gil Carlson ( from B&G) wrote about it and Dan Holohan rewrote it and spread the word.


I have a hard copy. I'll see if there is one available on line. ( my heating teacher in technical school was helping to write it back in the day )


----------



## intohotwater (Feb 10, 2012)

intohotwater said:


> I have a hard copy. I'll see if there is one available on line. ( my heating teacher in technical school was helping to write it back in the day )


You can buy one. 

CSA B214 07 Installation Code for Hydronic Heating Systems

CSA
ISBN/PUB:	B214 07


Buy online
Price $174.00
Quantity



Thats in Canadian dollars


----------



## walker426 (Oct 17, 2011)

walker426 said:


> The system was installed by a reputable hydronics contractor in cleveland we shall see tomorrow am


Found three rads that were hidden behind curtains and never got bleed think that was the problem


----------



## walker426 (Oct 17, 2011)

walker426 said:


> Found three rads that were hidden behind curtains and never got bleed think that was the problem


I was wrong about the taco separator its a honeywell


----------



## CTs2p2 (Dec 6, 2011)

Doesn't that red screen on the ultra indicate a fault..?
It's either green or blue usually, no?

And I typically pipe the indirect right off the boiler when doing an ultra, before the closely spaced tees.

Looks like a clean job tho.


----------



## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

CTs2p2 said:


> Doesn't that red screen on the ultra indicate a fault..?
> It's either green or blue usually, no?
> 
> And I typically pipe the indirect right off the boiler when doing an ultra, before the closely spaced tees.
> ...


I second CT ... also doesn't the space heating zone get the ghost heat flow when the indrect pump runs?


----------



## walker426 (Oct 17, 2011)

CTs2p2 said:


> Doesn't that red screen on the ultra indicate a fault..?
> It's either green or blue usually, no?
> 
> And I typically pipe the indirect right off the boiler when doing an ultra, before the closely spaced tees.
> ...


Red screen maintance reminder.


----------



## walker426 (Oct 17, 2011)

walker426 said:


> Red screen maintance reminder.


It isnt my install


----------

