# AO Smith Water Heater HELP



## Plumbergeek (Aug 16, 2010)

I installed a AO Smith 75gal ProMax SL direct vent water heater http://www.hotwater.com/products/residential/rg-ssl-pv.html
in a customers home in April of 2009. Well, 4 month's go by with no issues and then I receive a call that there is no h/w. The Advanced Intelli-Vent™ gas control valve shows it has locked out after trying to relight.
Checked everything out (vent, gas pressure, igniter) unit worked OK for a week or so. Called back for same problem, called AO Smith tech line and determined Gas valve was bad so I replaced it. Month's go by with no issues and she call's again with same problem around February 2010. Finally got my _*sorry supplier*_ to get a AO Smith warranty repair man out. He cleaned the igniter and thought the vent needed extending away from the inside corner of the house (flame dances inside firebox) & still does. Problem seemed to be solved until yesterday, 6 months of no problems and it's doing it again:furious:
Does anyone have any suggestion's??


----------



## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

is it direct vent or power vent.... the link says it is power vent


----------



## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

If it is a direct vent hot water tank they are very subject to strong winds.


----------



## Plumbergeek (Aug 16, 2010)

No it's a power vent. AO Smith warranty man came today and cleaned igniter again and suggested replacing burner assy. The problem is they are charging my customer for all this and she is not happy about that! I advised her to battle AO Smith directly. Also, the tech said he thinks it an environmental issue causing the problems. I can't buy that as it goes for month's without going out but as soon as it begins it progressively gets worse. (i.e) goes out with more frequency and not being able to relight itself, customer then has to reset it so it will relight....
I told the customer that I would replace it with a Rheem or 2 Rinnias (which I tried to get them to do in the first place) and I would eat the install cost if they purchased the W/H. I can't afford to eat the heater cost though.


----------



## 1703 (Jul 21, 2009)

Is it FVIR??


----------



## Plumbergeek (Aug 16, 2010)

Colgar said:


> Is it FVIR??


No, open burner, unit is in basement within 7' of the HVAC unit.


----------



## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Plumbergeek said:


> No, open burner, unit is in basement within 7' of the HVAC unit.


It is FVIR compliant.


----------



## Plumber Jim (Jun 19, 2008)

Did you check the ground? sometimes on those electronic ignitions they will do bad things if you don't have a good ground. I had one like yours that kept having issues lighting and would go into lockout. The flame sensors would get dirty in a month or so. I replaced the whole pilot assembly and that solved it and it's been almost a year now.


----------



## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

If it is a power vent and the flame is dancing around there is a few causes for this....... one being gas pressure...2nd being primary air... 3rd the ventor motor is not operating at the proper RPM..... 4th you have a restricted vent....to many fittings or a sag in your venting.


----------



## Plumbergeek (Aug 16, 2010)

OldSchool said:


> If it is a power vent and the flame is dancing around there is a few causes for this....... one being gas pressure...2nd being primary air... 3rd the ventor motor is not operating at the proper RPM..... 4th you have a restricted vent....to many fittings or a sag in your venting.


Tested gas psi with manometer under load and was OK, the vent has one 90 where it turns out with a height of maybe 5', make up air comes from basement and I had been concerned with that and advised to leave double doors open, but that didn't fix it. HVAC unit is H/E and intake air comes from outside. Which leaves RPM's, well it works fine for month's and then starts to go downhill fast, that is what stumps me????


----------



## Plumbergeek (Aug 16, 2010)

Plumber Jim said:


> Did you check the ground? sometimes on those electronic ignitions they will do bad things if you don't have a good ground. I had one like yours that kept having issues lighting and would go into lockout. The flame sensors would get dirty in a month or so. I replaced the whole pilot assembly and that solved it and it's been almost a year now.


Thanks, I will look into that as a possible solution.


----------



## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

When I say primary air ...I am talking about the air that mixes with the fuel prior to going into the burner.

Secondary air is the air that burns the fuel above the burner.

The flame on the burner should be steady and just a little above the burner itself.

If it is dancing it could be to much primary air and there maybe an air shutter on the burner that could be adjusted.


----------



## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

pic of air shutter on burner


----------



## Plumbergeek (Aug 16, 2010)

This is the burner, I will look for the air/fuel adj tomorrow. The flame color looks good though and there are no signs of sooting?


----------



## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

sooting would be a lack of air


----------



## 1703 (Jul 21, 2009)

Is the flame hitting the flame sensing rod good?

Does the blower make the flame pull away from the FSR?


----------



## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

Plumbergeek said:


> Tested gas psi with manometer under load and was OK, the vent has one 90 where it turns out with a height of maybe 5', make up air comes from basement and I had been concerned with that and advised to leave double doors open, but that didn't fix it. HVAC unit is H/E and intake air comes from outside. Which leaves RPM's, well it works fine for month's and then starts to go downhill fast, that is what stumps me????


How can you be so sure that the double doors are always open?


----------



## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

*give it the water test...*

That brand is 100%junnk...
always having to go back out and clean off those igniters....
I have some customers that have learned how to sand off those 
carboned up igniters themselves, because they have done it so many times
this is a . very piss poor set up...



might I suggest the next time this piece of junk acts up give it the *"water test" ...*

1.pour a quart of water down the flue on top of the heater...

2.look to see if the water collects down in the burner area..

3 if you see water, then as far as I am concerned it IS leaking....

4. call your supplier and tell them you got a leaking water heater 
and just change the damn thing out with a replacement....
you have already done everything else to attempt to fix it......



I cant say wether their new style FVIR heater is any better
than the POS presently in that basement, 
but odds are it will 100% solve the problem and make
the customer feel that you have gone the extra mile for them....


----------



## Plumbergeek (Aug 16, 2010)

Igniter corrosion appears to be the cause! They were cleaned yesterday and unit has not malfunctioned again. AO Smith has finally verified this issue also.
Thanks MasterMark for getting me on the right track.:thumbup:


----------

