# To pull or not to pull



## love2surf927 (Dec 22, 2011)

Do you guys pull the nut and ferrule on compression angle stops if the threads match, or just swap the stop and call it good. Everyone I've worked for in the past always said if the threads match (i.e. old brasscraft to new brasscraft) just swap the stop but now that I have my own business I change everything, but once in awhile you run into one that has been over-tightened so much it crimps the sh** out of the copper and the new ferrule wont seal.:furious: Just curious what the rest of the plumbing world is doing.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

If it looks willing enough and access is easy enough I replace, if not and the nut and ferrel appear to be fine I leave it on. Done this for years and yet to regrett it. I know some are bent on changing them out and I certainly have no problem with it. I say if you believe in changing them out 100% by all means do it. For the most part it's fine either way unless the thing is ancient.


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## AlbacoreShuffle (Aug 28, 2011)

I try to pull them "IF" there is enough room to cut off a stuborn one without having to open the wall.
If it looks like trouble , I'll use the old nut and ferrule .


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

I like to do it on all of them but I'd say probably 2-3% of the time I leave it on because it looks like a can of worms opening up. 










Paul


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## okcplum (Jul 16, 2011)

i always change them out. i use a olive splitter, sorry, ferrule spitter.
i know them as olives as thats what we have called them since i have been in the game 24 years now.
the reason i do is because when i tried to just change the stops or whatever else i tried to get away with when i first started in the plumbing game my boss would always make me re do it at my own cost, i may add, so i learned fast and it has just stuck with me.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

I remove the old nut and ferrule. If it's stubborn, I use this: http://www.faucetdepot.com/prod/Pasco-4661-1-2%22-Compression-Sleeve-Puller-21586.asp

No matter how tight the ferrule is sqooshed onto the copper stub-out, the pasco tool pulls it right off.


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## JK949 (Mar 18, 2009)

99% I use the Saf T Kut ferrule splitter. Only done a handful where I left the original on. I check that the stop fully fits on the stub before tightening. If the stop only goes on partway, that's inviting a leak.


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## Hillside (Jan 22, 2010)

I use the pasco tool also, it's scary when u can grab the nut with channys and slide both nut and ferrule off the copper without a problem, I use wd40 or 3 in one when removing ferrules with the pasco tool, it helps a lot. 99% of the time I change it all......... Oh and I ream the pipe that the other plumber forgot to do 90% of the time, if possible i cut off appx 3/8's" of the copper to make sure the new ferrule seats well


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## RealCraftsMan (Dec 27, 2011)




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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

HillsidePlumbco said:


> I use the pasco tool also, it's scary when u can grab the nut with channys and slide both nut and ferrule off the copper without a problem,


 





I know, what's up with that? You wonder how the stop didn't blow off the wall......:laughing: Sometimes even, you can slide the nut and ferrule off by hand.....that's when I'm like...:blink:


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

HillsidePlumbco said:


> Oh and I ream the pipe that the other plumber forgot to do 90% of the time



You are too gracious when you say "forgot to do", they either never learned to do it, or they just didn't care. I bet that's not the only piece of pipe they didn't ream either.


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

If I change out a stop, I solder on the new one.


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

ChrisConnor said:


> If I change out a stop, I solder on the new one.


I don't think I've seen a single soldered stop around here in the 15 years I've been plumbing in California.





Paul


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## RealCraftsMan (Dec 27, 2011)

rocksteady said:


> I don't think I've seen a single soldered stop around here in the 15 years I've been plumbing in California.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
I do it every chance I get. It's my way of making sure my kids have a job in the trade someday.


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Around here, they built a bunch of cheap townhouses with CPVC and used compression angle stops. They can split right between the ferrule and the nut. Always super tightened so that the brass is curved greatly into the plastic.


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## HOMER (Jun 5, 2011)

solder on a mip adapter


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

HOMER said:


> solder on a mip adapter


Heck no, why solder then have to screw?

Besides, El Homeowner is afraid of those kind that are "welded" on.:laughing:


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## JK949 (Mar 18, 2009)

rocksteady said:


> I don't think I've seen a single soldered stop around here in the 15 years I've been plumbing in California.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've only seen two sets in the same house in Laguna Hills about four years ago and no one since. I don't think I could find sweat stops if I wanted to.


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

ChrisConnor said:


> If I change out a stop, I solder on the new one.


Post a photo of the next one you plumb.


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

Did you receive my PM, QB?

I know Kung Fu!


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Yes I did I will send off


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Yes I did I will send off by this weekend I want to go to my home local to pick up the most current decals we have.


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

Right on!

I know Kung Fu!


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Qball415 said:


> Post a photo of the next one you plumb.


 






Here's one I did recently. I love sweat stops. Next time you have one in your hand, you'll notice the stem is brass, not plastic like the compression angle stops.


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Nice. I will order one next time im at Ferguson.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

If the stop is leaking or is extremely hard to turn, etc. Then it gets replaced (with a sweat stop). If the stop Is in good condition then we dont worry bout it. We only use sweat stops on copper, and stops with the cpvc insert in them for cpvc. We do not use compression stops, never! and of course a quality chromed copper supply line, everytime!

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

No doubt that's quality work my thing is lots of poly or pex in them there hills,,,,, errr walls and keeping the line cooled down could be hard to do specially if fighting residual water on the lowest stop in the house such as on closets.
Now we're faced with possibly having to break the half union at the meter.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

mpsllc said:


> No doubt that's quality work my thing is lots of poly or pex in them there hills,,,,, errr walls and keeping the line cooled down could be hard to do specially if fighting residual water on the lowest stop in the house such as on closets.
> Now we're faced with possibly having to break the half union at the meter.[/QUOTE]
> 
> 
> ...


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Qball415 said:


> Post a photo of the next one you plumb.


 





Here are some others. If cust. sees you bringing your torch (B-tank) and solder tray into their home and spending some time installing 'an emergency shut-off valve', then you can justify your price. But if it's wham bam thank you ma'am, with you out of there in 10 minutes swapping out a comp. angle stop, customer might not perceive the value. Then it's harder to justify the bill.


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## Hillside (Jan 22, 2010)

Tommy plumber said:


> Here's one I did recently. I love sweat stops. Next time you have one in your hand, you'll notice the stem is brass, not plastic like the compression angle stops.


Of course I run into one today, I need to stop posting here hahaha, 1st one in years, older brass craft with plastic stem


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## trick1 (Sep 18, 2008)

Must be a regional thing, I can count on one hand how many times I saw compression stops here...

Usually on modular homes.


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## sikxsevn (Jun 23, 2009)

Ewww.... Multi turn stops....

Sent from my iPhon


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## trick1 (Sep 18, 2008)

sikxsevn said:


> Ewww.... Multi turn stops....
> 
> Sent from my iPhon


We tried using sweat 1/4 stops with no luck...

I used a #1 soft flame tip with my b-tank and I'm really careful about temperature when soldering.

Occasionally we saw really small leaks that were causing the valves not hold 100%.

After that we went back to brasscraft stops, removed the stems prior to soldering and never had an issue.


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

I ALWAYS replace but and ferrel. I dont have a tool to do so. I use a mini hacksaw and cut the ferrel 3/4-7/8 of the way through, then I take a small straight end screwdriver and pry it right apart. Comes off every time and never damages the copper. simple and no extra tools needed that aren't already in my bag


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## walker426 (Oct 17, 2011)

Michaelcookplum said:


> I ALWAYS replace but and ferrel. I dont have a tool to do so. I use a mini hacksaw and cut the ferrel 3/4-7/8 of the way through, then I take a small straight end screwdriver and pry it right apart. Comes off every time and never damages the copper. simple and no extra tools needed that aren't already in my bag


Use my lenox mini hack saw works great always replace with a lenox quarter turn compression


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## smoldrn (Oct 4, 2010)

I only use sweat stops. Never cared for the comp. ones unless it was a cpvc job. Around here they use some strange little push/pull shut off with the supply built in, installs directly on pex.


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Its been a while since I've used those push supply angle stops.
I don't recall the brands we used.
A good tip on those to minimize leaks is to connect the supplys to fixture before you push into stub out.


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