# whadda ya think?



## 1703 (Jul 21, 2009)

Think I should wedge a broom handle under that txt? 

You know, do it up right.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Colgar said:


> Think I should wedge a broom handle under that txt?
> 
> You know, do it up right.


 Damn, jsohs get around..


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

I say leave it alone then get the call for the total plumbing repair, after the contractor puts in a new floor.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

Re pipe it in pex and let the txt rest on the floor. :laughing:


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## Plumbergeek (Aug 16, 2010)

easttexasplumb said:


> Re pipe it in pex and let the txt rest on the floor. :laughing:


I was just gonna say that! :thumbsup: We have a plumbing company here that does just that!:laughing:

Here is how we put in WH's down south, house is 9 yrs old.









Home owner installed, no shut off either.


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## bizzybeeplumbin (Jul 19, 2011)

I see that galvy nipple seeped on the cold side.

I use my brass tee right off the cold nipple and I swear Rheems nipples or the brass tees are threaded poorly, I use tape and dope and tighten it down, but am always concerned it's going to seep and look like that poo in a few years. 

In my opinion though, expansion tank straight up and off the brass tee and 90 is the best install.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

Here's the best way to do heaters when ya got cpvc involved 









sent from the jobsite porta-potty


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## revenge (Jun 30, 2011)

I might be wrong but dont you have to have 12 inches of metal piping before it hits cpvc


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

Mississippiplum said:


> Here's the best way to do heaters when ya got cpvc involved
> 
> View attachment 15232
> 
> ...



While that looks better than most CPVC I see around here, I just don't like the idea of CPVC, but understand Florida and the water problems. I should go add that to the code stuff I don't like.


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## revenge (Jun 30, 2011)

dont forget the heat trap, yes water heaters come with that already installed or there are special nipples with heat traps but beleive it or not they restrict the flow of water i usually take them out of heater and do a heat trap loop


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

What is TXT?


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Qball415 said:


> What is TXT?


TXT=Thermal Expansion Tank


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

revenge said:


> I might be wrong but dont you have to have 12 inches of metal piping before it hits cpvc


Not here, on a gas yeah, but not on elec, I see cpvc males direct to the tank ALOT

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


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## revenge (Jun 30, 2011)

like i said i might be wrong but here thats the rules


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## Piper34 (Oct 10, 2011)

I think there's a better place in the hack that did that to install the broom handle (gently of course)💩😱


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Just tie string around the gas pipe..........:laughing: Make sure it's code approved string....


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## seanny deep (Jan 28, 2012)

bizzybeeplumbin said:


> I see that galvy nipple seeped on the cold side.
> 
> I use my brass tee right off the cold nipple and I swear Rheems nipples or the brass tees are threaded poorly, I use tape and dope and tighten it down, but am always concerned it's going to seep and look like that poo in a few years.
> 
> In my opinion though, expansion tank straight up and off the brass tee and 90 is the best install.


I would agree 100% and on non inspected jobs that how I do it. Here you have to put a check valve on the water service if its not rated for hot water " usually municipal service series 160" but for code the hotwater tank requires a vacuam breaker witch a put on the run of the brass t if its inspected otherwise the expansion tank. What good is a vacuam breaker if there's a check valve on the main? If someone has a good answer I'm all ears the plumbing inspector has selective hearing and never answers this question. TuNis seanny.


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## bizzybeeplumbin (Jul 19, 2011)

seanny deep said:


> I would agree 100% and on non inspected jobs that how I do it. Here you have to put a check valve on the water service if its not rated for hot water " usually municipal service series 160" but for code the hotwater tank requires a vacuam breaker witch a put on the run of the brass t if its inspected otherwise the expansion tank. What good is a vacuam breaker if there's a check valve on the main? If someone has a good answer I'm all ears the plumbing inspector has selective hearing and never answers this question. TuNis seanny.



This is because they probably don't know.

We are required to have a vacuum breaker on if the water heater is in the attic above all other fixtures. I believe the vacuum breaker is there to prevent the siphon of water when it is turned off. If there isn't a fixture on the same floor to break the siphon. I'm not sure about your check valve situation.


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## CTs2p2 (Dec 6, 2011)

Here it's anytime there is any fixtures at or below the heater.

IPC says you also need one if the water heater is a bottom inlet.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

seanny deep said:


> What good is a vacuam breaker if there's a check valve on the main?


One purpose served by the VB is to keep the water in the WH and allow for service of the inlet piping that may be located at a level below the WH. A check valve at the main may serve as minimal backflow prevention to protect the municipal system, but it is useless for servicing the building's system.

Located at the WH, a VB allows you to open the cold water distribution piping without dumping 40 gallons of water in your lap and blowing the elements. A shutoff valve can do the same thing but only if you know the water is going to be shutdown and if you have immediate and ready access to the WH.

The main reason is probably because the building occupant may have no advance warning of a shutdown of the city main. But depending on the building layout, they may not have access to or even be aware of every WH in tenant spaces when they are doing an emergency repair on the building's main system.

There is also no guarantee that a swing check is going to effectively stop the water flow.


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

They are called vacuum relief valves around thee parts. I use Conbraco...

Sent from my iPad using PlumbingZone


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Of all the water heaters I've seen and serviced, replaced in this area, never seen a vb on them.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

rjbphd said:


> Of all the water heaters I've seen and serviced, replaced in this area, never seen a vb on them.


Any water heater that has fixtures below it, or bottom fed water heaters are required to have a vacuum relief valve installed. Just because you do not see them installed does not make it right.


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## azmike (Feb 3, 2010)

rjbphd said:


> Of all the water heaters I've seen and serviced, replaced in this area, never seen a vb on them.


 They are solid rubber washers with cross slits and are where the nipples bottom out in the tank top.


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## Keefer w (Jan 26, 2012)

azmike said:


> They are solid rubber washers with cross slits and are where the nipples bottom out in the tank top.


Sometimes called heat traps?


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## Plumbworker (Oct 23, 2008)

heat traps are not vacuum reliefs... i believe tip tube heaters have a relief hole though


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## Donahue756 (Feb 25, 2012)

I thought txt where to be installed a min of 18'' from the cold water inlet. Or is it only the flexcon brand.

Installation
1. The tank must be installed according to your local plumbing code. It should be at least 18” from the cold water inlet to the water heater.


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