# Whats in your sweat kit?



## Doubletap (May 5, 2010)

As I work toward being a "real plumber" I'm doing a little bit with cooper. The masters I work with aren't much help because they don't sweat much anymore and would be lucky to find a can of flux in their trucks. 
So I want to know what you carry and why.


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## Plumbbum0203 (Dec 14, 2011)

Auto cuts for tight spots. I also carry a small fire extinguisher. You May need this if you are first starting out.


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## justin (May 14, 2010)

Doubletap said:


> As I work toward being a "real plumber" I'm doing a little bit with cooper. The masters I work with aren't much help because they don't sweat much anymore and would be lucky to find a can of flux in their trucks.
> So I want to know what you carry and why.


last time i looked in mine there was a bunch of little pieces of copper and corroded fittings. dirty flux brush, piece of pizza , thincrust .


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## Nate21 (Nov 25, 2011)

Gotta have a reamer & some fitting brushes!


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## smoldrn (Oct 4, 2010)

Standard stuff.. a couple different sized mini cutters, #10, 15, & 20 Rigid cutters, Nokorode for new work, Laco for old pipe, Mapp & Propane, fitting brushes, sandcloth, rag.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

some 50/50 and a hacksaw


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

TurboTorch PL-DLXPT Deluxe Portable Torch Kit

This is the kit that I use. I have sandcloth, brushes for flux, a small container of oatey #5, fitting brushes, tubing cutters both close cutter and regular cutter, and a fire shield. It's nice because I can carry all of this in the one solder bag.


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## JK949 (Mar 18, 2009)

Stanley tote, two pockets to straddle joists
Brasscraft reamer
Ridgid 151 quick action tubing cutters
Ridgid close quarter cutters 1/2" to 1"
Ever flux
Flux brush, always have spares
Fitting brushes 1/2" to 1"
Sand cloth mesh lasts longer
Rothenberger and Turbotorch self ignite torches
Cool gel
Water spray bottle


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Flux, fitting brushes up to 2", flux brushes, sand cloth, 50/50 lead solder and lead-free solder, pipe dope, plumber's grease, torch tips, teflon tape and a cast iron caulking tool.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Tubing cutters, a few different kinds of flux, sand cloth, MAPP gas, reamer, beveler, acid brushes, 95/5 solder, striker, spray bottle, heat shield, spare flints, roach clips and a couple of roaches I accused my guys of stealing.

I'm glad I found the roaches -- That was some really good shiot.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

I carry fitting brushes, a reamer, flux, flux brushes, a fire extinguisher, rag, torch accessories, and a insulating pad to prevent scorched drywall and such and solder of course 

Here's how I do my flux brushes- once I'm done doing the joints, I just through the brush away. A good reamer is a must.

And practice your joints soldering vertically , horizonly and straight down into the fitting. 

This was soldered vertically straight up into the fitting by me. 









A good clean joint without globs and drips is what you want to shoot for. 

And have a wet rag at all times while soldering, to wipe away globs and wipe the flux residue off the joint while it's still hot.

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


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## Nate21 (Nov 25, 2011)

I see some 50/50 on here, we haven't been able to use that for a long time...??


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## RealCraftsMan (Dec 27, 2011)

Doubletap said:


> As I work toward being a "real plumber" I'm doing a little bit with cooper. The masters I work with aren't much help because they don't sweat much anymore and would be lucky to find a can of flux in their trucks.
> So I want to know what you carry and why.


 
This is why we can't find workers and my pay will always go up. We do remodels per customer/GC in copper all the time. I do multiple repairs every week on copper. 

We really can't pay enough money to get a good repair guy right now. 

Cotton has been begging fopr help here in Houston as well. Let this be a lesson to everyone.


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## Dmaz (Jan 11, 2011)

Leather gloves; ridged 15s, 30s and 101 mini cutters; sparker; mirror; reamer; file; fitting brushes; flux; solder; rags. 

Eventually I'll probably get my own btank tips, but for now I just use the company ones.


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## BROOKLYN\PLUMB (May 21, 2010)

Nate21 said:


> I see some 50/50 on here, we haven't been able to use that for a long time...??


Even on heating???


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## ironandfire (Oct 9, 2008)

I have a bucket. Bottoms filled with hardware, strut clamps, small clevis, strut nuts, strut washers, screws, nuts, washers, cap screws. Small tools 4" crescent wrench, 6" channel locks, 6 way, angle stop wrench, 3 in 1 oil. Rope, soap and dope. Misc. fittings and several flux brushes. teflon tape. Angle level. Rubber lube. Flux. (it would be easier to take a picture)


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Nuthing but a bunch of sharkbites and a Schwinn coupling in mine.


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## seanny deep (Jan 28, 2012)

When i took over the company for my mentor/ journeyman he left most of his self feed drillbits, copper benders ect for me. The sauder tray is the one thing i havent reorganized cause it works perfect a tray like the red one on page one. Except a peice of 3" abs which holds the can of map gas perfect a peice of 3" abs "both srewed to the tray of course. Inside a peice of 1:25" of copper with a one inch fitting brush, peice of 1" copper 3/4 copper brush and a peice of 3/4 copper for the half inch brush their saudered toghether and then theirs room for flux brushes. Other then that various copper cutters sand cloth. Lenox water soluable flux and acid core flux"not aloud to use any more" and 50/50 for the odd bit of dwv copper i run into. A sparker a mirror and plumbers grease and yes ..... Sharkbite valve and caps.. just in case "temporarily they can be a life saver. An oatey fire blanket. I always carry a class a fire extinguisher and a w' chunk of wonderboard "concreate board" that about covers it oh and lead free sauder of course.


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## Nate21 (Nov 25, 2011)

Nope not on heating either. Although heating has only been the last few years form what I know... I personally don't do much heating.


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## HOMER (Jun 5, 2011)

Don't forget about your jet sweat/s (or equiv)


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

My sweat bag contains a can of Nokorode flux, as well as a spare can, two dozen flux brushes, fitting brushes from 1/2" to 2", a couple rolls of mesh sandcloth, a few different reamers, a multi size swaging tool, five rolls of Bridgit solder, two rolls of 50/50 solder, Turbotorch tips size T2 thru T6 (2 of each), and a bunch of clean rags. 

I keep my Reed cutters in my tool bag.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Plumbbum0203 said:


> I also carry a small fire extinguisher. *You May need this if you are first starting out.*


:laughing:

It's been 47 years since I've sweat my first joint...
And I've got my fire extinguisher right there with me before I strike a flame on the torch...

It's a bad day when the fire department shows up at your job-site...
It hasn't happened to me yet and I pray it never does...:yes:

I spent 26 years as a volunteer firefighter and I know how fast fire can spread under the right drafting conditions...

We've got a lot of old balloon frame constructed homes around here and I know that by the time I ran out to the truck to get an extinguisher and back in to a fire in the first floor wall it would already be in the attic.... 

The last thing I want to have happen is having my firefighter buddies show up at my job with me looking like and azz...:blink:

Take it from me...
It's not for when you are just starting out...
It's just being safe.... :yes:


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## CTs2p2 (Dec 6, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> I'm glad I found the roaches -- That was some really good shiot.



Huh, guess there is two different means to "those joints are ready to torch"
:laughing:


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## PLUMBERICK (Feb 13, 2012)

Normal soldering stuff already named. I also have a few strips of "scotch-brite" 
it works great on pipe that isn't tarnished badly (new stuff). I also always fill my manual water pumper fire extinguisher. I always thought I would look less foolish filling it then I would sitting on the curb watching the Firemen at work. It also works good to cool your hand after ---you know


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

All the above and a duct knife !! Great for cutting canvas wrap on old hydronic pipe


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Nate21 said:


> I see some 50/50 on here, we haven't been able to use that for a long time...??


 






I certainly won't use lead-solder on a potable water line. The 50/50 lead solder is used on the occasional lead shower pan (which I rarely if ever do anymore). 

Some guys will use 50/50 to sweat brass p-traps to a copper waste arm, but I don't.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Tommy plumber said:


> I certainly won't use lead-solder on a potable water line. The 50/50 lead solder is used on the occasional lead shower pan (which I rarely if ever do anymore).
> 
> Some guys will use 50/50 to sweat brass p-traps to a copper waste arm, but I don't.


 Copper and Brass DWV is about the only thing I use 50/50 for these days.

I think the last time I used it was when I needed a 2" brass low profile p-trap for a shower drain install in a 2x6 floor joist.


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

Widdershins said:


> Copper and Brass DWV is about the only thing I use 50/50 for these days.
> 
> I think the last time I used it was when I needed a 2" brass low profile p-trap for a shower drain install in a 2x6 floor joist.


Or crappy offshore out of tolerance DWV fittings that are too sloppy to get with 95/5. A nice 50/50 cap is a good insurance policy.

The following user(s) wishes to thank U666A for this useful post: Mississippiplum, Plumber71, DesertOkie


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## Dmaz (Jan 11, 2011)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> All the above and a duct knife !! Great for cutting canvas wrap on old hydronic pipe


Oh yeah, I got a couple cheap steak knives in there for cutting insulation, or drywall, or backing if push comes to shove haha


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## user8031 (Dec 14, 2011)

Ridgid speed cutter 151
Ridgid mini cutter
flux & brushes
lead free solder
1 lenox torch tip
1 bernzomatic torch tip (back up)
mesh sandcloth
100% cotton gloves
fittings brushes
1/2" & 3/4" jet sweats
tape measure
sharpie
teflon tape
Gimme the green stuff pipe dope by Jomar valve
rags
spray bottle w/water

This is for the most part.


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## RealCraftsMan (Dec 27, 2011)

Tommy plumber said:


> I certainly won't use lead-solder on a potable water line. The 50/50 lead solder is used on the occasional lead shower pan (which I rarely if ever do anymore).
> 
> Some guys will use 50/50 to sweat brass p-traps to a copper waste arm, but I don't.


I use it all the time for brass on lead w/c flanges.


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## Doubletap (May 5, 2010)

I saw I guy they other day on you tube that had a brush built into the top of his Nokorode. So he used the lid of the can like a handle and the brush was attached.
Was that something he did himself or am I missing out on the good cans?


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## sikxsevn (Jun 23, 2009)

Doubletap said:


> I saw I guy they other day on you tube that had a brush built into the top of his Nokorode. So he used the lid of the can like a handle and the brush was attached.
> Was that something he did himself or am I missing out on the good cans?


the small-ish cans with the metal lids have a built in brush


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## TPWinc (May 30, 2011)

ChrisConnor said:


> Nuthing but a bunch of sharkbites and a Schwinn coupling in mine.


Why the shark bites? The schwinn coupling will last much longer!:laughing:


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## 504Plumber (Jan 26, 2011)

Redwood said:


> :laughing:
> 
> It's been 47 years since I've sweat my first joint...
> And I've got my fire extinguisher right there with me before I strike a flame on the torch...
> ...


I did a job for a co-worker of my wife a while back. She had a leak on a 1/2" 90 under her kitchen sink, addition behind the kitchen with the outside brick wall in tact. I commence to soldering and all of a sudden my wife was asking me why is there smoke... I stood up and went into the bedroom addition only to find 7ft flames shooting off the wall. The lady failed to mention they had cut a hole in the bricks and hung a sheet to cover that hole. 

I busted my ass 3 times running to the truck for the fire extinguisher, learned a good lesson that day too.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

justin said:


> last time i looked in mine there was a bunch of little pieces of copper and corroded fittings. dirty flux brush, piece of pizza , thincrust .


Priceless.:laughing:


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

The usual as mentioned ( minus the pizza crust) but with a water spray bottle to wet the surroundung area and then insulating blanket on top of that. Thinking on stepping up my game to adding the fire extinguisher also. I've had to slap out fires roaring up that crappy paper backed insulation plenty of times.


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

Tommy plumber said:


> I certainly won't use lead-solder on a potable water line. The 50/50 lead solder is used on the occasional lead shower pan (which I rarely if ever do anymore).
> 
> Some guys will use 50/50 to sweat brass p-traps to a copper waste arm, but I don't.


Yeah, because the hundreds of millions of homes that have copper systems with lead based solder in them are killing people off left and right.

The whole lead thing with potable water is an over reaction by California lawmakers on a level that borders on true hilarity.

Chicago has hundreds of thousands homes that have lead water services, that number grows the further east you travel, I'm sure NY has millions of them, and none of them are the cause of people with lead poisoning.

If you ever have to make a joint on a line that you can't get a full shut down on, you'll reach for a roll of 50/50.


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## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/RT100-Soldering-Gun/EN/index.htm

If you ever used one of these electric solder guns, you will never solder close to flammable material, with a torch again. Cuz there is no need to.

I know its another tool you gotta get out of the truck & set up, but it beats burning the place down. After having one of these for almost 10 yrs, I can't believe every plumber don't carry one on their truck. JMO.

They work awesome for baseboard heat jobs too. 

To me this is the ultimate tool for fire safety.:yes:


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## Miguel (Aug 10, 2009)

meh - a roll of 50-50 is way cheaper but I'll bet it's been more than 15 yrs since I bought any. The better quality "silver content" solders flow just as good but just with a much smaller heat window.

Nowadays I've retired my B-tank (and my oh, so precious MC tank with the pencil flame Prest-O-Lite. I could solder a gnats ass to a tin cup and the gnat would be all "wtf???") with a Turbotorch Map gas setup. Works good and I can still solder to within 1/2" to birchbark but nothing like the old setup.

Not to crazy about it for finesse work although it can be done but just with a different aproach. I guess it's ok since I don't solder near as much as I used to.

Kit includes the torch, a MAAP bottle plus a spare, ftg brushes 1/2" - 1", regular "Canada Metal" flux plus a small bottle of S-39 liquid flux. 2 sizes of Vise-Grips, mini cutters, #10 rigid cutters, #152 cutters to 2", sandcloth, spare burner tip, Maalco reamer, piece of tin, flame retardent cloth, water bottle. Right now I have two grades of "silver bearing" solder. The one from supplier A is way more expensive (like $22 bucks/lb!) but way better than the other "no lead" solder from supplier B at $12/lb.

Um... there's a whole bunch of other crap in there that I guess I'll clean out this weekend.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

Don The Plumber said:


> http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/RT100-Soldering-Gun/EN/index.htm
> 
> If you ever used one of these electric solder guns, you will never solder close to flammable material, with a torch again. Cuz there is no need to.
> 
> ...


You seem to like the tool good enough but I'm curious about the time it takes to heat up a joint verses the torch. Also how well does the tool hold up and how does it fair in comparison with the joints having a good soldier draw/seal rate.


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

mpsllc said:


> You seem to like the tool good enough but I'm curious about the time it takes to heat up a joint verses the torch. Also how well does the tool hold up and how does it fair in comparison with the joints having a good soldier draw/seal rate.


It works by induction no? An induction stovetop claims to be able to boil water in 60 seconds. I dunno.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

Yeah same as a torch but a minute compared to literally seconds can be a lengthy wait per joint. Slower heating also tends to heat surrounding joints to the melting point which can be another negative in a repair situation.


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

mpsllc said:


> Yeah same as a torch but a minute compared to literally seconds can be a lengthy wait per joint. Slower heating also tends to heat surrounding joints to the melting point which can be another negative in a repair situation.


Good point. What I'm saying is that the same volume of water in a pot over flame vs. Induction, induction wins. Now im curious! 

If it is no faster that open flame, I would tend to agree with you...


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

Yeah I'd like to hear what he has to say too. It must not be too bad if after 10 years he's still going for it. I could see it being safer in confined areas with highly combustibles within inches.


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

mpsllc said:


> Yeah I'd like to hear what he has to say too. It must not be too bad if after 10 years he's still going for it. I could see it being safer in confined areas with highly combustibles within inches.


Absolutely. It would have to be pretty damn impressive to replace my turbo-torch but could be a life saver in the right application!


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## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

mpsllc said:


> You seem to like the tool good enough but I'm curious about the time it takes to heat up a joint verses the torch. Also how well does the tool hold up and how does it fair in comparison with the joints having a good soldier draw/seal rate.


For 1/2" and 3/4" cop pipe, I would have to say it is as fast, or faster to heat up the joint. I mean you can't have your torch on full blast, if your next to a flammable material, right?

Also never ever had a problem heating up another joint close by. What is really nice too, is that the tongs grab onto each side of fitting, & heat the joint evenly, all the way around. So when you touch the solder on one side, & it melts, or sucks up into that seam, you know the joint is heated, all the way around, & ready for solder.

I have replaced the tips on end of heat gun only 2 times in 10 yrs. Very east 15min job. The tips unscrew & have 2 5/16 nuts to lock them in position. The new tips even are shipped with new lock nuts.

Only negative I can remotely say about this tool, is this;

In really tight spots, you have to make sure the tongs do not touch anything metal, other than the pipe you wanna solder, but all it does is spark a bit, if you touch another metal object, no big deal.

It is a little cumbersome, with the jumper cable type wires, hooked up to tongs. No big deal here either.

When you grab on to fitting, just grab it fast, or you will get a spark, if you have a loose connection, but I am so use to it now, that unless the joint is really in an awkward position, (which I'm talkin would be impossible to solder with a torch), I can get it on the pipe, & back off, without even a spark.

The kit I have, has high & low heat. Never needed high heat but 1 time. My solder gun says it can solder up to 2" pipe. Way bigger than what I need, but the only reason I bought the bigger one, was because everything is mounted inside a metal case. Keeps cords & everything else clean & from getting tore up.

Now the pros on this thing are too many to mention. I give it a 12, on a scale of 1-10 if you know what I mean.:thumbsup:

Lastly, whenever I pull this thing out & use it, everyone around is in awe. It definetely has the "wow effect", for all the 1st timers who see it. And my customers, & contractors really appreciate, the safety issue. Especially in some of these 80yr old, wood tinder box houses, we work in.


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## bizzybeeplumbin (Jul 19, 2011)

Tommy plumber said:


> Flux, fitting brushes up to 2", flux brushes, sand cloth, 50/50 lead solder and lead-free solder, pipe dope, plumber's grease, torch tips, teflon tape and a cast iron caulking tool.


I have the same orange tote, had it for many years!

I have roll of solder, turbo torch, open mesh sand cloth, reamer, flux, acid brushes, wore out fitting brushes, some old scrap copper, mapp gas, fire extinguisher, however you spell it!

I also have propress up to 4", close quarter jaws, jet sweats, mc tank, b tank, 2 hose kits with rose bud to 4" tips. If there is a copper leak and I can't fix it, the customer is in some serious trouble!


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

Killertoiletspider said:


> Yeah, because the hundreds of millions of homes that have copper systems with lead based solder in them are killing people off left and right.
> 
> The whole lead thing with potable water is an over reaction by California lawmakers on a level that borders on true hilarity.
> 
> ...


Your kinda hurting your argument when you say there is more lead in the East, maybe that's what makes them vote so weird.:laughing:


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

I guess my kit is the same as most guys, I also have the holding side of a flair tool. It makes copper go round again so I can fit those fittings on. Also Cool Gel when I can get it.


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