# AO smith keeps failing



## SHAUN C (Feb 16, 2011)

Ok heres the deal, got the original call back in Jan. 40 gal AO pilot keeps going out. Changed out the burner assembly ( sealed combustion chamber) and t stat. H.o calls back mid march says it's going out again, I noticed the gas flex was a half incher so I replaced it. Tank is in garage, been running fine for 5 yrs. Checked vent, all clear, no new gas appliances everything checks out fine. We get the call on Friday, same story.... I'm thinking maybe just change the heater out at this point...


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

SHAUN C said:


> Ok heres the deal, got the original call back in Jan. 40 gal AO pilot keeps going out. Changed out the burner assembly ( sealed combustion chamber) and t stat. H.o calls back mid march says it's going out again, I noticed the gas flex was a half incher so I replaced it. Tank is in garage, been running fine for 5 yrs. Checked vent, all clear, no new gas appliances everything checks out fine. We get the call on Friday, same story.... I'm thinking maybe just change the heater out at this point...


 
Did you supply this water heater for the purchase by the property owner?


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## skw83 (Feb 19, 2009)

intake screen on the bottom of heater is plugged. Remove the washable screen and vacuum the sreen out that is located under the burner. A.O smith has a brush that you can attach on a shop vac. If you can find an inspection camera. I have a small rigid flexable camera snake that I use everytime I run into this problem. Hope this helps.


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Try thermocoupling again.


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## 504Plumber (Jan 26, 2011)

skw83 said:


> intake screen on the bottom of heater is plugged. Remove the washable screen and vacuum the sreen out that is located under the burner. A.O smith has a brush that you can attach on a shop vac. If you can find an inspection camera. I have a small rigid flexable camera snake that I use everytime I run into this problem. Hope this helps.


Use this guys advice, that's yer problem.


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## deerslayer (Mar 29, 2012)

skw83 said:


> intake screen on the bottom of heater is plugged. Remove the washable screen and vacuum the sreen out that is located under the burner. A.O smith has a brush that you can attach on a shop vac. If you can find an inspection camera. I have a small rigid flexable camera snake that I use everytime I run into this problem. Hope this helps.


YEP!:yes:


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## pilot light (Apr 21, 2012)

Are you guys talking about an air inlet screen? Just trying to figure it out!


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## Cal (Jun 17, 2008)

Everytime i talk to BW or AO rep they tell me the same thing ,,,, it's either blocked air intake or not enough combustion air . 

Everytime ,, they been right . Seems the techno gas valves are very good . 

my .02


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## SHAUN C (Feb 16, 2011)

I removed the screen and it was pretty clean on the first trip out. We did supply the heater, we stock a.o at the shop. I removed the screen altogether on the second time out. It's a big garage, not in a closet either, so I'm thinking there should be plenty of combustion air. It's that time of year now where we get alot of these calls about pilots going out. Thanks for the suggestions!


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

SHAUN C said:


> I removed the screen and it was pretty clean on the first trip out. We did supply the heater, we stock a.o at the shop. I removed the screen altogether on the second time out. It's a big garage, not in a closet either, so I'm thinking there should be plenty of combustion air. It's that time of year now where we get alot of these calls about pilots going out. Thanks for the suggestions!


Big garage with oversized exhaust fan? Creating neg air flow... seen that happened..


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## pilot light (Apr 21, 2012)

SHAUN C said:


> I removed the screen and it was pretty clean on the first trip out. We did supply the heater, we stock a.o at the shop. I removed the screen altogether on the second time out. It's a big garage, not in a closet either, so I'm thinking there should be plenty of combustion air. It's that time of year now where we get alot of these calls about pilots going out. Thanks for the suggestions!


Bad gas valve!


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## skw83 (Feb 19, 2009)

SHAUN C said:


> I removed the screen and it was pretty clean on the first trip out. We did supply the heater, we stock a.o at the shop. I removed the screen altogether on the second time out. It's a big garage, not in a closet either, so I'm thinking there should be plenty of combustion air. It's that time of year now where we get alot of these calls about pilots going out. Thanks for the suggestions!


 
The screen you need to clean is under the burner and is not removeable. If you can try to find an inspection camera and look at it. Most of these screens only take a few years to plug up no matter how often the outer screen is cleaned.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

skw83 said:


> The screen you need to clean is under the burner and is not removeable. If you can try to find an inspection camera and look at it. Most of these screens only take a few years to plug up no matter how often the outer screen is cleaned.


 Switch over to Rheems.. never have screen problem.. but .then..


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## Keefer w (Jan 26, 2012)

Ruud bought out a.o. Smith didn't they?


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

pilot light said:


> Bad gas valve!


its just a bad gas valve...

if the unit is in the garage, it should be up on a stand and you should be able to rule out the bottom of the heater clogging up with lint.....

change the gas valve, and break out the little looking glass on the unit while you are at it, 
and all will work well


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## SHAUN C (Feb 16, 2011)

skw83 said:


> The screen you need to clean is under the burner and is not removeable. If you can try to find an inspection camera and look at it. Most of these screens only take a few years to plug up no matter how often the outer screen is cleaned.


Didn't know that, thanks for the advice. I have broke the little window out on tanks in Attics


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## Titletownplumbr (Feb 16, 2011)

skw83 said:


> The screen you need to clean is under the burner and is not removeable. If you can try to find an inspection camera and look at it. Most of these screens only take a few years to plug up no matter how often the outer screen is cleaned.


That is correct. :thumbsup:


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## Titletownplumbr (Feb 16, 2011)

Master Mark said:


> its just a bad gas valve...
> 
> if the unit is in the garage, it should be up on a stand and you should be able to rule out the bottom of the heater clogging up with lint.....
> 
> ...


Sounds like you're making an assumption. I would definately look at the ceramic filter before changing the gas valve, they clog real easy.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

Master Mark said:


> its just a bad gas valve...
> 
> if the unit is in the garage, it should be up on a stand and you should be able to rule out the bottom of the heater clogging up with lint.....
> 
> ...


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)




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## HSI (Jun 3, 2011)

Please educate me? Why break out the glass?


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

HSI said:


> Please educate me? Why break out the glass?


The heater will get combustion air through the opening.


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## pilot light (Apr 21, 2012)

pilot light said:


> Bad gas valve!


Bad gas valve!


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## Joeypipes 23 (Feb 2, 2011)

Change thermocouple first...if persistent then gas valve but you must check baffles make sure its clear, intake screen at bottom base, also on bottom of tank where the burner sucks in fresh air, check orifice on pilot head make sure its clear....ummm I don't ever.break the glass but I.understand why


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Ao makes an shop vac attachment to clean the bottom of the heater. I suck it out. Then blow it then suck it agian. No nasty comments u screw balls!!! Lol


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## plumjoe (Oct 21, 2009)

Have happen a few times. If its not the intake screen, check the vent. Had one terminating close to valley of roof , raised it a another foot problem stopped. With all this crazy weather we have been getting, it was causing air to follow valley and some how blowing out pilot. Seems crazy but worked for me.


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

HSI said:


> Please educate me? Why break out the glass?


 
That way if the customer stores flammable liquids near the water heater and the home explodes it will be easy for the insurance adjuster to assign the blame. It's a service some plumbers offer to speed up the claims process.


*DO NOT BREAK OUT THE GLASS WINDOW*



Paul


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

easttexasplumb said:


> Master Mark said:
> 
> 
> > its just a bad gas valve...
> ...


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

Screen is not removable. The ceramic disk shaped filter is visible inside the burner chamber on the base. Also not removable. AO Smith has a vacuum attachment to clean from the bottom and directions on their website in video format. 

If this doesn't work, I would just recommend replacing the WH to elevate any embarrassment and frustration by over troubleshooting. Especially if it is out of warranty. Replacing the GCV can be a shot on the dark. Not worth my time. Cleaning the screen and filter works most of the time

This is why we stopped installing AO Smith gas water heaters.


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## Joeypipes 23 (Feb 2, 2011)

MTDUNN said:


> Screen is not removable. The ceramic disk shaped filter is visible inside the burner chamber on the base. Also not removable. AO Smith has a vacuum attachment to clean from the bottom and directions on their website in video format.
> 
> If this doesn't work, I would just recommend replacing the WH to elevate any embarrassment and frustration by over troubleshooting. Especially if it is out of warranty. Replacing the GCV can be a shot on the dark. Not worth my time. Cleaning the screen and filter works most of the time
> 
> This is why we stopped installing AO Smith gas water heaters.


How do you justify replacement of a heater still under warranty..IMO I found one of two things thermocouple or gas valve..granted you check draft and baffles and intake...I see it as a money maker doing all such repairs...then when tank goes more money to be made


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

I wouldn't replace a WH that is still under warranty. If the thing is 12+ years old and gave the homeowner a choice to either replace the gas control valve for $450.00 or a new water heater, the vast majority would prefer a new water heater not made by AO Smith. 

Clarified.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

rocksteady said:


> That way if the customer stores flammable liquids near the water heater and the home explodes it will be easy for the insurance adjuster to assign the blame. It's a service some plumbers offer to speed up the claims process.
> 
> 
> *DO NOT BREAK OUT THE GLASS WINDOW*
> ...


*In 2007, an estimated 7,900 reported home structure fires involving water heaters
resulted in 30 civilian deaths, 340 civilian injuries, and $75 million in direct property​damage.
* 
Cigerattes kill more people, and cause more fires than water heaters. I bet you know why we still have cigerattes around. The odds of the water heater causing an explosion or fire are slim to none.


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

easttexasplumb said:


> *In 2007, an estimated 7,900 reported home structure fires involving water heaters​*
> 
> *resulted in 30 civilian deaths, 340 civilian injuries, and $75 million in direct property*​*damage.*
> 
> Cigerattes kill more people, and cause more fires than water heaters. I bet you know why we still have cigerattes around. The odds of the water heater causing an explosion or fire are slim to none.


 
actually more people hit the lottery every year than get killed or injured by a water heater.. the odds are extremely slim but it does happen on occasion..


I myself was burned up pretty good when I was a teenager fooling around painting in my parents utility room... but I still know the odds are remote..
I always buy lottery tickets every week too....



this procedure is done only as a last resort ...


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

I know the odds are slim to none, closer to none. 

I have installed A.O. Smith heaters almost exclusively for the last 13 years and have never needed to replace a heater due to FVIR issues. I made a tool years ago that allows me to vacuum the filters (I didn't even know A.O. Smith had one until about a year ago). When ever I am called to a heater that won't light, I replace the pilot assembly, vacuum the burner chamber, the area around the water heater and the ceramic disc. I then tell the customer why the heater shut down and what they can do to keep it from happening. I can't remember having to go back on one yet.









Paul


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Where's the safety from the fvir water heater when there's an open flame from furnace, boiler or gas dryer nearby??


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

rjbphd said:


> Where's the safety from the fvir water heater when there's an open flame from furnace, boiler or gas dryer nearby??


 
An engineer that just graduated will be working on that, in a couple of years a gas furnace will cost millions.:laughing:


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## rrman (Oct 29, 2008)

*rrman*

I clean Heattraps and burners and sometimes thermocouplings.But older powervents i go to replace.


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## MikeS (Oct 3, 2011)

skw83 said:


> The screen you need to clean is under the burner and is not removeable. If you can try to find an inspection camera and look at it. Most of these screens only take a few years to plug up no matter how often the outer screen is cleaned.


 This is 100 per cent absolutely correct. If you pull the burner, there is a round plate that covers the catalyst underneath it. I take a pry bar and gently slide it under the plate, then, push down on it, and it pops the plate up off the dealeo that holds the burner in place. 
Now you have full access to the catalyst. Its paladuim, or some such crap. Take a flashlight and turn it on and put it right on there. Most times, you won't see any light underneath it where the plastic screen is. Now, take a shop vac, and put the hose in the lower portion, where the plastic screen is, then take compressed air or CO2 and blow DOWN from the burner into the catalyst. Make sure the shop vac is on, to catch all the dust. when you think you blew it all out, do the flashlight thing again. If you can see light, you are all good. The reason these things go out is there is a thermistor in the thermocouple. If airflow is impeded thru that catalyst, it gets too hot in the combustion area, and it trips. This was sent out in a technical bulliten many years ago. Also applies to Reliance water heaters, as they are the same thing. If you ever change the pilot assembly, make sure you put in the right temp rated one (there is a tag on the orange lead, for the sparker). And make sure you blow out the catalyst thing. Been there, done it a hundred times.


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## MikeS (Oct 3, 2011)

Master Mark said:


> its just a bad gas valve...
> 
> if the unit is in the garage, it should be up on a stand and you should be able to rule out the bottom of the heater clogging up with lint.....
> 
> ...


 you can't break out that glass. These heaters are Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant....which means the combustion area is isolated from the outside air. The catylist or ceramic below the burner acts as a check valve, so if flammable vapors do get into the burner area, the temps rise, the pilot shuts off from the thermistor, and, the catalyst is supposed to choke the flame from going back into the source of the flammable vapors. Don't mess with the glass. If you do have to break the glass, you obviously have no idea what the hell you are doing, and should just quit trying to fix water heaters.


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

MikeS said:


> you can't break out that glass. These heaters are Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant....which means the combustion area is isolated from the outside air. The catylist or ceramic below the burner acts as a check valve, so if flammable vapors do get into the burner area, the temps rise, the pilot shuts off from the thermistor, and, the catalyst is supposed to choke the flame from going back into the source of the flammable vapors. Don't mess with the glass. If you do have to break the glass, you obviously have no idea what the hell you are doing, and should just quit trying to fix water heaters.


I hate when the manufacture install parts for no reason.

Sent from my miniature laptop


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

MikeS said:


> you can't break out that glass. These heaters are Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant....which means the combustion area is isolated from the outside air. The catylist or ceramic below the burner acts as a check valve, so if flammable vapors do get into the burner area, the temps rise, the pilot shuts off from the thermistor, and, the catalyst is supposed to choke the flame from going back into the source of the flammable vapors. Don't mess with the glass. If you do have to break the glass, you obviously have no idea what the hell you are doing, and should just quit trying to fix water heaters.


 
Breaking the glass does fix the heater, and no one will ever be back for lack of combustion air. They worked without all that FVIR crap for a long time and as I posted earlier cigarettes kill way more people than water heaters. If you want to save lives get involved with a anti smoking campaign you are not going to be a hero by installing FVIR heaters.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

MikeS said:


> This is 100 per cent absolutely correct. If you pull the burner, there is a round plate that covers the catalyst underneath it. I take a pry bar and gently slide it under the plate, then, push down on it, and it pops the plate up off the dealeo that holds the burner in place.
> Now you have full access to the catalyst. Its paladuim, or some such crap. Take a flashlight and turn it on and put it right on there. Most times, you won't see any light underneath it where the plastic screen is. Now, take a shop vac, and put the hose in the lower portion, where the plastic screen is, then take compressed air or CO2 and blow DOWN from the burner into the catalyst. Make sure the shop vac is on, to catch all the dust. when you think you blew it all out, do the flashlight thing again. If you can see light, you are all good. The reason these things go out is there is a thermistor in the thermocouple. If airflow is impeded thru that catalyst, it gets too hot in the combustion area, and it trips. This was sent out in a technical bulliten many years ago. Also applies to Reliance water heaters, as they are the same thing. If you ever change the pilot assembly, make sure you put in the right temp rated one (there is a tag on the orange lead, for the sparker). And make sure you blow out the catalyst thing. Been there, done it a hundred times.


Did the manufacturer approve these changes you made.?


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## plumbtekkk (May 19, 2012)

did you clean the air intake screen under burner


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## plumbtekkk (May 19, 2012)

*pilot*

i agree never break the sight glass, if nothing else loosen some burner door screws to see if it's not getting enough air.but fix the problem secure door back right.


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## drainman (Apr 23, 2010)

*Drain man*

You have changed out the burner assembly complete with thermocouple and the unitrol(gas control valve) now try to clean the screen at the bottom of the burner in the combustion chamber. If these thing don't work trash the heater and install Rheem. Both A.O smith and Bradford make the biggest crap. I have had so many problems with these heaters. Never had a problem with Rheem and I get Rheem slightly cheaper any way.


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## TPWinc (May 30, 2011)

If you're gonna pop the glass out of a FVIR water heater you might as well plug the T&P while your at it. :blink:

The WH tanks are tested to 300psi and I'm sure the rubber hoses you used to hook it up will blow long before then.:whistling2:


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

TPWinc said:


> If you're gonna pop the glass out of a FVIR water heater you might as well plug the T&P while your at it. :blink:
> 
> The WH tanks are tested to 300psi and I'm sure the rubber hoses you used to hook it up will blow long before then.:whistling2:


 No comparison with the FVIR's safety jokes vs T&P device on all pressure vessels..


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## TPWinc (May 30, 2011)

On a more serious note... Those who said to vacuum out or internally blow out the dust and crap in the intake are correct. American water heaters use to come with a filter screen you snapped around the base of the heater to prevent the FVIR screen from clogging. They worked great if they were actually installed instead of thrown away because someone felt they were not needed.


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## TPWinc (May 30, 2011)

rjbphd said:


> No comparison with the FVIR's safety jokes vs T&P device on all pressure vessels..


Well in the case where the heater is right next to the open flame of a furnace I see your point. But down here in Florida the water heaters are in the garage right next to the shelf with the gas can, paint thinner, etc... So in my area it is a good comparison.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

TPWinc said:


> Well in the case where the heater is right next to the open flame of a furnace I see your point. But down here in Florida the water heaters are in the garage right next to the shelf with the gas can, paint thinner, etc... So in my area it is a good comparison.


Thats why it should be on a platform, like they have been for a long time. People should be educated about the dangers of flammables around gas water heaters. The gas company here does a good job of putting stickers on them that show a guy catching on fire.


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## TPWinc (May 30, 2011)

easttexasplumb said:


> Thats why it should be on a platform, like they have been for a long time.


O.K. then are you putting them on a stand after you break out the glass?


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

TPWinc said:


> O.K. then are you putting them on a stand after you break out the glass?



Every gas heater in a garage gets put on a platform. Is there a video out there showing a FVIR heater in action, is there some proof they work.


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## turd-chaser (Jan 22, 2012)

It usually has to do with the dust but when I go on these service calls I switch out the pilot assembly as well if they are under warranty. The pilot assembly that come on the heater I believe is 190 F and I install the 200F assembly as that what our wholesaler recommended we do when we go on these. Bought a 18v dewalt vac and got the brushes from ao smith got sick of using small shop vac and dragging cords and a short piece of pex with a 90 on it to clean them


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## abtwidwell (May 25, 2012)

Or a marginal flue. I've been told minimum of 12" rise off the flue damper before a 90.


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## victoryplbaz (May 19, 2012)

Busting out the sight glass is the most stupid thing one could say to anyone. If i caught any of my guys doing that they would be fired on the spot. Its there for a reason! I have seen the fvir work and yes some dumbass put three gas cans right in front of his water heater. I wold not want to think what would have happened if some dumbass knocked out the glass. You will change your tune once your named in a lawsuit because someone decided they know more that the manufacture and someone has almost blown their ass up.


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## Joeypipes 23 (Feb 2, 2011)

victoryplbaz said:


> Busting out the sight glass is the most stupid thing one could say to anyone. If i caught any of my guys doing that they would be fired on the spot. Its there for a reason! I have seen the fvir work and yes some dumbass put three gas cans right in front of his water heater. I wold not want to think what would have happened if some dumbass knocked out the glass. You will change your tune once your named in a lawsuit because someone decided they know more that the manufacture and someone has almost blown their ass up.


Oh come on its the easiest way to light the pilot if the ignitor fails lolol


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

victoryplbaz said:


> Busting out the sight glass is the most stupid thing one could say to anyone. If i caught any of my guys doing that they would be fired on the spot. Its there for a reason! I have seen the fvir work and yes some dumbass put three gas cans right in front of his water heater. I wold not want to think what would have happened if some dumbass knocked out the glass. You will change your tune once your named in a lawsuit because someone decided they know more that the manufacture and someone has almost blown their ass up.


 So tell me where do the fvir safety come in with the open flame furance, boiler or dryer next to it??? Too bad that lawyer's stupidty survived and sued the consumer protection agency for not ' protecting' the public of having hazards around water heater.
Furthermore, had a basement exploison while the guy was using paint thinner, toluene to clean his old carburater, what did it?? The upright motor sump pump switch sparked when water level got high in pit... gonna sue the sump pump??? As my brother , engineer at NASA, explained simplcity, " no matter how much safety you put on any product, notthing is idiot proof."


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

That and the fact that there are many warning labels on the tank.


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## victoryplbaz (May 19, 2012)

rjbphd said:


> So tell me where do the fvir safety come in with the open flame furance, boiler or dryer next to it??? Too bad that lawyer's stupidty survived and sued the consumer protection agency for not ' protecting' the public of having hazards around water heater.
> Furthermore, had a basement exploison while the guy was using paint thinner, toluene to clean his old carburater, what did it?? The upright motor sump pump switch sparked when water level got high in pit... gonna sue the sump pump??? As my brother , engineer at NASA, explained simplcity, " no matter how much safety you put on any product, notthing is idiot proof."


 
I see your point, but that still dont make it right to remove the glass and alter the water heater. All it takes is for that stupid HO to do something stupid and then your on the hook for everything. You dont really think the manufacture is going to step up to the plate do ya??


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## TPWinc (May 30, 2011)

rjbphd said:


> So tell me where do the fvir safety come in with the open flame furance, boiler or dryer next to it??? Too bad that lawyer's stupidty survived and sued the consumer protection agency for not ' protecting' the public of having hazards around water heater.
> Furthermore, had a basement exploison while the guy was using paint thinner, toluene to clean his old carburater, what did it?? The upright motor sump pump switch sparked when water level got high in pit... gonna sue the sump pump??? As my brother , engineer at NASA, explained simplcity, " no matter how much safety you put on any product, notthing is idiot proof."


You're absolutely right. They should've made the glass harder to break out. A airplane could crash on the house too, but tampering with a safety device is just plain dumb.


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## AndersenPlumbing (Jan 23, 2010)

MikeS said:


> Don't mess with the glass. If you do have to break the glass, you obviously have no idea what the hell you are doing, and should just quit trying to fix water heaters.


:thumbsup:


I had a call 2 years ago. Very concerned home owner. They had a pilot problem a month earlier and had a plumber come out and replace the thermocouple. He knocked out the glass and didnt tell the home owner. The glass was inside the heater. The homeowner had looked through said glass to try to light the heater before calling him. The homeowner had pilot problems on and off for 2 weeks and had also noticed that the glass was removed. When the homeowner called AO Smith to get help with the heater, the tech guy asked them to try and light it, "look through the sight glass" homeowner says its not in there anymore, the service plumber who was here 2 weeks ago knocked it out! AO Smith almost voided their warranty. The homeowner called me to try to repair it. I talked AO Smith into honoring the warranty and replacing the gas valve......AFTER I proved that I had replaced the door with a new door with glass!

Stop being a hack and learn your trade. Dont cut corners to line your pocket!


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## hanksplumbing (May 21, 2012)

SHAUN C said:


> Ok heres the deal, got the original call back in Jan. 40 gal AO pilot keeps going out. Changed out the burner assembly ( sealed combustion chamber) and t stat. H.o calls back mid march says it's going out again, I noticed the gas flex was a half incher so I replaced it. Tank is in garage, been running fine for 5 yrs. Checked vent, all clear, no new gas appliances everything checks out fine. We get the call on Friday, same story.... I'm thinking maybe just change the heater out at this point...


john wood state a o smith all the same brand , just sat thru an info session with their canadian tech , what we are doing here in BC is replacing the burner assembly ,with their new and improved burner , it now has more built in features to help stop nuisance overheating on the tco switch and helps reduce the build up of lint on the bottom screen , with the new burner it has a more aggressive ignition which generates a negative pressure in the burn chamber and is designed to blow out any lint caught up in the screen every time it fires , talk with your local water heater rep and they should be able to get you these new burners .


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