# NO -> Yes



## PathMaker (May 10, 2013)

Not like this, but like this...:thumbup:


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## PathMaker (May 10, 2013)

Sharkbites on type "M"...No :no:

Copper couplings on type "L"... Yes :yes:


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

What with the die electric union craps?


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## PlungerJockey (Feb 19, 2010)

Looks nice.

Why did you remove the sharkbites, guilty conscious? :thumbup:


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## PathMaker (May 10, 2013)

PlungerJockey said:


> Looks nice.
> 
> Why did you remove the sharkbites, guilty conscious? :thumbup:


LOL no. I dont even carry sharkbites on my truck. The customer requested that I remove them after she asked me what they were. Shed didnt like the idea of having her water pipes being held together by an o-ring and some tiny metal tabs. I had to agree...


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## JDGA80 (Dec 9, 2012)

PathMaker said:


> Not like this, but like this...:thumbup:[/QU
> why the switch from horizontal?


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## PathMaker (May 10, 2013)

JDGA80 said:


> PathMaker said:
> 
> 
> > Not like this, but like this...:thumbup:[/QU
> ...


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

rjbphd said:


> What with the die electric union craps?


What do you use? I use good quality Dielectric unions or brass IPS unions per code.


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## PathMaker (May 10, 2013)

rjbphd said:


> What with the die electric union craps?


Because here, they are required by code.

MOST of us plumbers understand the theory behind electrolysis. But for the prying eyes of our DIY visitors I will elaborate.

When you run two dissimilar metals together (though not just any two dissimilar metals, in this case ferrous and non-ferrous, meaning "having iron, and not having iron") and run an electric current through them, they will begin to move ions from one metal to the other. Water in the home has an electric current to it, albeit slight. This moving of ions has an effect we all call corrosion.

Many plumbers trash dielectric unions because they say they don't work. And in some cases it's true, at least truer. I've had the privilege to plumb in multiple states and have seen this in action. The type of water you have has as much to do with this than what type of fittings are used on the installation. Also, how well maintained a water heater is affects the concentration of minerals in the water and the speed/effectiveness of ion swapping corrosion.

We have all taken a water heater to the front or back yard of a customer's house and dumped out of the bottom of a leaky water heater 5-10 gallons of pure brown, black or red sludge that we didn't see when draining or using hot water. 

That's why the manufacturer of the heater recommends draining AND flushing the heater every six months. Keeps the concentration of those junky minerals from doing bad stuff to the metal of the tank and piping beyond the tank.

This may be a good time to add that using galvy nipples on the bottom side of your dielectric unions is a bad idea. In order to get the best effect you should use both dielectric unions AND dielectric nipples. This creates a much larger gap (4-6 inches of pipe length versus the 1/8" gap from the washer in the union) for the ions to have to be carried and in most cases the current cant effectively carry ions across the gap.


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## PathMaker (May 10, 2013)

SewerRatz said:


> What do you use? I use good quality Dielectric unions or brass IPS unions per code.


Brass unions are nice and work. Here, it is common to see brass couplings with a copper male adapter in the top. And for a few years Raleigh was pushing Mecklenburg County to do just that. 

I carry some brass unions around for that reason, AND because I dont use sharkbites. Sometimes a union just works better to make a solid connection in a tight spot.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

PathMaker said:


> Brass unions are nice and work. Here, it is common to see brass couplings with a copper male adapter in the top. And for a few years Raleigh was pushing Mecklenburg County to do just that.
> 
> I carry some brass unions around for that reason, AND because I dont use sharkbites. Sometimes a union just works better to make a solid connection in a tight spot.


In Illinois unions are required on a water heater. They also require dielectric fittings to be used when joining dissimilar metals, or we can use a brass transition fitting(which soon will be required to be lead free).


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

SewerRatz said:


> In Illinois unions are required on a water heater. They also require dielectric fittings to be used when joining dissimilar metals, or we can use a brass transition fitting(which soon will be required to be lead free).


Nope, the code book (outdated) stated its recommened... not required..


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

rjbphd said:


> Nope, the code book (outdated) stated its recommened... not required..


Let me highlight the code for you. The word "shall" means it must be done. The words "may" which references unions in drainage means it is an option. Bold red text is done by me to highlight the parts of the Illinois plumbing code.

TITLE 77: PUBLIC HEALTH 
CHAPTER I: DEPARTMENT OF PUBLIC HEALTH
SUBCHAPTER r: WATER AND SEWAGE
PART 890 ILLINOIS PLUMBING CODE 
SECTION 890.350 UNIONS​ 


*Section 890.350 Unions* 

Unions may be used in the drainage and venting system when accessibly located above ground. *Unions shall be installed in a water supply system within 5 feet of regulating equipment, water heaters, water conditioning tanks, water conditioning equipment, pumps, and similar equipment which may require service by removal or replacement.* Where small equipment may be unscrewed, only one union shall be required. 

a) Drainage System. Unions may be used in the trap seal and on the inlet and outlet side of the trap. Unions shall have metal to metal seats except that plastic unions may have plastic to plastic seats. 

b) Water Supply System. Unions in the water supply system shall be metal to metal with ground seats, except that plastic to metal unions may utilize durable, non-toxic, impervious gaskets. *Unions between copper pipe/tubing and dissimilar metals shall either be made with a brass converter fitting or be a dielectric type union. *


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Let get back to the page I read when I get home


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

rjbphd said:


> Let get back to the page I read when I get home


 Here is a link of the code posted by the State which is where I just did a copy and paste from. This was the same code I was taught when I got my license back in 1991.

http://www.ilga.gov/commission/jcar/admincode/077/077008900C03500R.html


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## 89plumbum (May 14, 2011)

......


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

Completely Agree with Sewer Ratz. To also elaborate. I have found that the Di-electrics are not all that good. They seize up, the still corrode on the body of the union and at the lip, so are useless after a few years.

Best way but I believe costs more though is the brass union, takes care of both requirements and is a better job.


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