# tricks to threading galvanized?



## roving plumber

Is it me or the dies, I admitt that although I have been plumbing for 12 years the company I worked for most of those years did not run much threaded pipe. That being said I have cut pipe 1" down and tried threading some 2" galvanized with rigid 300 and rigid dies I only threaded one section and now it keeps tearing up the threads in the middle . The old 300 is really working to cut full length threads also, any tricks to threading galvanized or just get new dies?


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## c-note

might be the dies ,galvanize pipe is usually the easiest to thread.Make sure you are using plenty of oil,also check for chips in the die this causes the threads to be destroyed. Ive threaded gas pipe for over 20 years.Make sure youre threads are good ,peoples lives are at risk.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER

roving plumber said:


> Is it me or the dies, I admitt that although I have been plumbing for 12 years the company I worked for most of those years did not run much threaded pipe. That being said I have cut pipe 1" down and tried threading some 2" galvanized with rigid 300 and rigid dies I only threaded one section and now it keeps tearing up the threads in the middle . The old 300 is really working to cut full length threads also, any tricks to threading galvanized or just get new dies?


If the dies teeth are good then you mite try taking apart the die head and cleaning it very well and then grease it a bit!!! I little sand or dirt in the head can through it off!! Also if the machine is old and worn out a long piece of pipe mite chip the threads cuz the loose barrings in the two chucks!! Allows the pipe to move around a bit!!! Are you using speed dies?? Or ratchet ?? Also make sure Thers no water in your oil


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## surfdog

sounds like dye teeth


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## Qball415

Well oiled, brush shavings off before machine goes reverse. Keep longer cuts level and machine clean. I use w/d 40 on my hand cranked threads.


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## Redwood

Are the dies in good condition?

Are you using cutting oil? Real cutting oil? Not motor oil?


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## PlungerJockey

The real trick to threading galvanized, is to find someone to do it for you :whistling2:


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## TX MECH PLUMBER

PlungerJockey said:


> The real trick to threading galvanized, is to find someone to do it for you :whistling2:


Yea like an apprentice


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## Michaelcookplum

Make sure your using DARK Ridgid cutting oil. Ran into that prob using lite cutting oil few years ago. Always use dark now


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## 504Plumber

We have seen, in the past, bad spots in pipe. The first few threads are fine, then a small piece is all chewed up, the next is fine. Have you tried them on a little test piece from maybe an older section of pipe?


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## johnny the bull

Thats happened to me quite a few times over the thousand or so threads ive done by hand and or machine, I'd first check the dies see if there chipped ....also check the order of the dies in the die head that there in order......suchas 1 2 3 4......and yes i agree dark cutting oil is the way to go......and its great for removing the sticky dopes at the end of the day proior to washing your hands also.....lol.


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## Associated Plum

It has been a long time since I have threaded any pipe, but usually the problem was bad dies, not using enough oil, OVERSEAS MADE PIPE, pipe made from recycled material or a combination of the above


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## roving plumber

Thanks for all the advice..going to try some new dies, will find out if that's the problem.


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## roving plumber

Still fighting the galvy...new dies helped..did have dark rigid oil, the old 300 does have one foot in the grave (even more so after today) but I think the real problem is stamped right on the pipe..made in south africa


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## HOMER

had similar results with gouged threads ,but the pipe was stamped Hyundai from Korea



pulled an old piece out of storage and it threaded up easily.
too old to still have a readable stamp.


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## Epox

Not only will foriegn pipe burn labor and repeated attempts to get a good thread, but also is killer on dies as it tends to have hard spots and pulls off chucks of pipe. Toss it. Get the good stuff it's cheaper.


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## jeffreyplumber

Where do you get the good stuff? Tried once 15 plus years ago to get domestic. Still available? price differance is how much?


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## Mississippiplum

Had some problems with some china heat galvy, it was week pipe and the threads didn't cut well, and the cut threads were extremely weak. I believe the name of the manufacture was China Heat.


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## futz

504Plumber said:


> We have seen, in the past, bad spots in pipe. The first few threads are fine, then a small piece is all chewed up, the next is fine. Have you tried them on a little test piece from maybe an older section of pipe?


That's what I was just going to say.  Over the years I've seen bad batches of pipe come and go lots of times (long ago we got pipe that broke dies often - that sucked bad - very expensive), and also, as you say, bad spots in pipe.

As already stated, check your dies and pour on the oil! Make sure your pipe is properly supported, both in the back of the vise and further out with a tripod, so the pipe's weight isn't all hanging on the front chuck.


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## 504Plumber

futz said:


> That's what I was just going to say.  Over the years I've seen bad batches of pipe come and go lots of times (long ago we got pipe that broke dies often - that sucked bad - very expensive), and also, as you say, bad spots in pipe.
> 
> As already stated, check your dies and pour on the oil! Make sure your pipe is properly supported, both in the back of the vise and further out with a tripod, so the pipe's weight isn't all hanging on the front chuck.


We usually set up a 6ft ladder a few feet away from the vice for holding pipe in the back.


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## Miguel

Sounds like crappy pipe and /or dies. To check if it's the pipe try adjusting the dies so they cut under, back off and reset the dies to cut full depth and take another pass. If you can't get a clean thread with that (and a gallon of Nu-Dark) then either your dies are made of granite or the pipe is recycled auto body steel.
To further check the pipe quality, gas or arc weld a butt joint and you will see the bad spots in the puddle.

Also, all the Rigid machines with adjustable die heads seem to cut a touch under (ie: a fitting won't hand tighten the full 3 turns) and most guys set them a touch over to compensate. Mebbe yours are set a little too deep to begin with. This is assuming you're using the adjustable die-head carraige on the 300.

If you're using hand dies and just using the 300 to drive then locate a pristine factory nipple (one that threads perfectly into your fittings and use that to adjust the die head (00, 12R, etc).

Mig


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## roving plumber

Got the galvanized taken care of, second lenghth of pipe had no markings on it but threaded good third lenghth of pipe was from Turkey...oh no here we go again..but turkish pipe threaded decent. Thanks again for the advice, also as a result of the bad pipe helping end the 300's life the owner is buying a new one.


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## UALocal1Plumber

jeffreyplumber said:


> Where do you get the good stuff? Tried once 15 plus years ago to get domestic. Still available? price differance is how much?


Any supplier should have Wheatland or Mueller pipe & tube material for sale. Just specify that you want domestic.


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## jeffreyplumber

UALocal1Plumber said:


> Any supplier should have Wheatland or Mueller pipe & tube material for sale. Just specify that you want domestic.



Yes I know they should, I dont recall the last time I used domestic Pipe I may have used it and not noticed . Last time I specificaly looked for Domestic At 2 of the biggest Supplyers many years ago they both had none readly available. I am curios now Think Ill check at My local ferguson and find out availability and price differance.


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## Epox

When we had this problem we picked up some pipe from a diffent supplier in town and that solved the problem. Of course we had ruined dies and run the labor through the roof. The way I finally concluded was to thread some other material laying around and all done well.


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## greenscoutII

UALocal1Plumber said:


> Any supplier should have Wheatland or Mueller pipe & tube material for sale. Just specify that you want domestic.


 
Do you know if Ward is still making pipe and fittings? A lot of older buildings in southern Colorado were plumbed and gassed with that stuff and when a guy disassembles it, the threads are still as bright and sharp as the day they were first cut......


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## BROOKLYN\PLUMB

greenscoutII said:


> Do you know if Ward is still making pipe and fittings? A lot of older buildings in southern Colorado were plumbed and gassed with that stuff and when a guy disassembles it, the threads are still as bright and sharp as the day they were first cut......


I only use ward fittings for gas and steam as for pipe I'm not sure I can't recall ever seeing ward pipe


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## ChrisConnor

I had an emergency gas line job at an hotel and the only place open at seven pm was HD. I bought my 1.5 " pipe there and rented the dies there too because I didn't want to ruin my tools on their import junk. Later HD stopped renting the dies because they were coming back ruined. :laughing:


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## Mississippiplum

ChrisConnor said:


> I had an emergency gas line job at an hotel and the only place open at seven pm was HD. I bought my 1.5 " pipe there and rented the dies there too because I didn't want to ruin my tools on their import junk. Later HD stopped renting the dies because they were coming back ruined. :laughing:


HD used to cut and thread pipe to your needs, but they stopped. Probly because of the reason you stated, they kept breaking dies.


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## jeffreyplumber

Did some checking and found my prices on domestic and import pipe
The "good stuff" is 2 and a half times the price of Import according to ferg online. I guess I aint going to be buying that any time soon.


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## BROOKLYN\PLUMB

jeffreyplumber said:


> Did some checking and found my prices on domestic and import pipe
> The "good stuff" is 2 and a half times the price of Import according to ferg online. I guess I aint going to be buying that any time soon.


At least now you can give your customers the option to pay for domestic material, you may find that they want to pay more for better quality, and if your competition doesn't do this already it will make you appear more professional


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## UALocal1Plumber

Ward or Anvil fittings, Wheatland pipe.

Why would you use cheap garbage that won't hold up? I've never pulled off a gas test without any leaks using imported stuff. I have gotten gas tests on the first pull when using domestic. Are you guys not testing your work? Is it not going before an inspector? 

I'd be really surprised if the imported junk from the box stores is even code compliant. Come on guys, we're pros and people pay us good money for a reason - because we do a great job and keep people safe & healthy in their homes and at work. Why put that at risk to save a little money?

Keith


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## jeffreyplumber

UALocal1Plumber said:


> Ward or Anvil fittings, Wheatland pipe.
> 
> Why would you use cheap garbage that won't hold up? I've never pulled off a gas test without any leaks using imported stuff. I have gotten gas tests on the first pull when using domestic. Are you guys not testing your work? Is it not going before an inspector?
> 
> I'd be really surprised if the imported junk from the box stores is even code compliant. Come on guys, we're pros and people pay us good money for a reason - because we do a great job and keep people safe & healthy in their homes and at work. Why put that at risk to save a little money?
> 
> Keith


 The price differance is not a little bit. I have found it unusual that a contractor ever to use domestic. Including high rise U.A. jobs. The only time I see domestic is when spec. calls for it. I personaly have fabbed gas and installed it on hundreds of homes and commercial jobs all of which were import, mostly Hyundai pipe I belive. Yes Ive had to repair leaks, bad pipe, bad fittings , bad workmanship, nail and screw holes . My experiance with American gas pipe is almost none I admit, But I dont think the work I have done is unsafe.
As for being suprised if the gas pipe at the big box store being code compliant. My big box sells the same brand as Ferguson 
I agree that the quality of much import is not great. but the cost differance is so great that even at Union pay the big contractors out here rarely buy domestic for gas pipe if not required. 
I suppose if none of us bought Import we would all be bidding aginst each other on a even playing field as far as material goes and could demand a higher price for better material


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## Vinzaplumber

All the import material is junk. Just saying


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## wookie

Just curious, I have only threaded with a old collins #22 machine and a #600 Ridgid hand held.Has anyone used the collins and 300? The collins seems to dump a lot of oil while threading - good ! Does the 300 use less?? Just wondering. Haven't threaded pipe in a while, so reading this thread concerns me. I do use the Ridgid dark oil.

wookie


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## jeffreyplumber

wookie said:


> Just curious, I have only threaded with a old collins #22 machine and a #600 Ridgid hand held.Has anyone used the collins and 300? The collins seems to dump a lot of oil while threading - good ! Does the 300 use less?? Just wondering. Haven't threaded pipe in a while, so reading this thread concerns me. I do use the Ridgid dark oil.
> 
> wookie


the 300 machine doesent have an oiler. most people use an accesory oiler where you have a pistol grip that you point and squeeze the oil drops in to a catch basin. I have used both machines extensively the collins is much faster Id guess 2 or 3 times as fast. The Ridgid 300 is a great machine it adjusts easily Cuts great. I think once a machine is really beat up the ridgid will keep going where the collins might need a bit more tweaking


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## wookie

jeffreyplumber said:


> the 300 machine doesent have an oiler. most people use an accesory oiler where you have a pistol grip that you point and squeeze the oil drops in to a catch basin. I have used both machines extensively the collins is much faster Id guess 2 or 3 times as fast. The Ridgid 300 is a great machine it adjusts easily Cuts great. I think once a machine is really beat up the ridgid will keep going where the collins might need a bit more tweaking


I'm very fortunate my collins came with dedicated die holder for all sizes 1/2"-2" once adjusted easy going. No complaints! Given to me by a good old plumber/ friend. Very generous with knowledge and threader!

wookie


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## UALocal1Plumber

I've noticed that the 300 machine will strip the zinc right off of your pipe if you're not careful. Keep a file brush handy because you'll be cleaning your jaws constantly. A large screwdriver is good just to pry the gunk out. It's worse on 1 1/2" and 2". 

For 2", use a 690 or 700 machine with the clamp accessory. You won't slip at all with it on, and it ultimately ends up being a lot faster.

Always remember to ream your pipe.

Keith


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## 504Plumber

UALocal1Plumber said:


> Always remember to ream your pipe.
> 
> Keith


it is a great stress reliever.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER

Iv never had a slip problem with my 300 machines!!! I just slam the chuck real hard!!! And let it rip!!!


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## JK949

I've threaded Taiwanese pipe up to 1 1/2" with a Rems Amigo hand threader and never had a problem with it. Taiwanese manufacturing is better than most worldwide.


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## UALocal1Plumber

tx mech plumber said:


> iv never had a slip problem with my 300 machines!!! I just slam the chuck real hard!!! And let it rip!!!


i think that's a great idea!!!!!!!! Yeah!!!!!!!!


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## 504Plumber

UALocal1Plumber said:


> i think that's a great idea!!!!!!!! Yeah!!!!!!!!


!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!¡

Did I do it right?!!!!!!!!


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