# First outdoor tankless job



## para1 (Jun 17, 2008)

Turned out pretty good except for the electrical, but this is what the HO wanted.


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## PLUMB TIME (Feb 2, 2009)

Looks good. It would be nice not having to worry about freezing.:yes:


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

Looks good. Neat and clean.:thumbsup:


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## PLUMB TIME (Feb 2, 2009)

Just saw your avatar Airgap.:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

Looks good, Are you going to terminate the relief valve near the ground?


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## A Good Plumber (Jun 18, 2008)

Now you just need an Electrician that does nice clean work like the plumber.


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

nice, clean job. :thumbsup:







paul


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## Tankless (Jun 12, 2008)

Distance from openable door or window looks good. 36" below eves appears ok, can't tell. 6" clearance on the sides of the heater is out of allowance. Black pipe exposed to weather is not allowed in my parts....it would need painting here. Electrical is bad. No reason to do it like that. Remote line could use some coax clips. 

It was smart of you NOT to put the heater to the right next to the gas diaphram.
Good job with the ISO valves....I know it's another hundred bucks, but well worth it. 
Did you notice a difference between the Rinnai and Noritz in operation?


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## Tankless (Jun 12, 2008)

Can I have your SN for procard points?????


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## Plumbworker (Oct 23, 2008)

looks good.. nice and clean:thumbup: i'm shocked that they allow blk for exterior in your area?


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

Tankless said:


> Can I have your SN for procard points?????


 Damn I was going to ask that... lol


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## rickmccarthy (Jul 20, 2009)

Looks Good Man but I have to agree with (a good plumber) the electrician is bringing you down man could he not afford the extra 18" of wire to make it square.

man that drives me nuts but I like it overall where will the relief valve terminate?


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## Plumbworker (Oct 23, 2008)

yeah i just noticed that too..


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## para1 (Jun 17, 2008)

Thanks for the replies. T&P was extended, control wire got clips. 

Anyone know a good electrcian?:laughing:


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

keep a copy of that picture in your van and when you talk to electricians for later jobs show it to them. tell them if they do work like that, they will have to re-do it. 






paul


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

Noritz does make a Remote Controller Outdoor Junction Box that would make the install look one step cleaner. The link is to the PDF file for the instating of it. It retails for under 10 bucks.


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Are the 45's on the insulation glued together at the joints?


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## para1 (Jun 17, 2008)

TheMaster said:


> Are the 45's on the insulation glued together at the joints?


 
Yes, I use sillycone.:yes: Actually , the joints are'nt glude in those pics. I did it the next day when I dropped the T&P line and clipped the contol wire.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

Clean gas work man. Like how you used the 45 to shoot over to the drop under the unit. Me personally, i never use the uni-strut, i just use 2 hole straps on the brick.


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

Check out MINI hangers to run your gas in.

OR

Use aluminum strut. The steel strut will put rusty streaks on the brick over time.


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

ILPlumber said:


> Check out MINI hangers to run your gas in.
> 
> OR
> 
> Use aluminum strut. The steel strut will put rusty streaks on the brick over time.


 I like the one hole bracket that uses a stove bolt to clamp it tight. Drill one hole in the brick and thats all. Galvanized steel. Electricians use them to run sch 40 conduit steel pipe.


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