# Anyone else use hard closet risers?



## dkonrai

Am I that old fashioned? I still use hard risers for my water closets.
Actual picture of my house. And yes it's keyless stop because all I had.









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## ken53

dkonrai said:


> Am I that old fashioned? I still use hard risers for my water closets.
> Actual picture of my house. And yes it's keyless stop because all I had.
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> Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk


That electrical outlet beside the toilet would tend to remind you to aim well in the night. Mom taught us boys buy putting the toy box beside it.
:vs_laugh::vs_laugh::vs_laugh:


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## ShtRnsdownhill

dkonrai said:


> Am I that old fashioned? I still use hard risers for my water closets.
> Actual picture of my house. And yes it's keyless stop because all I had.
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> Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk



I mostly use hard supplies, last forever and dont break...why didnt you chrome the copper coming out of the wall before you put the valve on so it all matches? or cut it shorter so the valve nut bottoms out on the escutcheon?


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## dkonrai

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> I mostly use hard supplies, last forever and dont break...why didnt you chrome the copper coming out of the wall before you put the valve on so it all matches? or cut it shorter so the valve nut bottoms out on the escutcheon?


I didn't have any cover tube left sorry....

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## dkonrai

ken53 said:


> That electrical outlet beside the toilet would tend to remind you to aim well in the night. Mom taught us boys buy putting the toy box beside it.
> :vs_laugh::vs_laugh::vs_laugh:


Remodeled my bathroom. Figured need power for a bidet seat just in case? 

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## Tango

Nope all flex speedways, no one in 30 years has installed chrome supplies.


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## Tango

dkonrai said:


> Remodeled my bathroom. Figured need power for a bidet seat just in case?
> 
> Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk


Better watch what you buy, I haven't seen one yet that's approved. I refused to install one 3 weeks ago. They complained they bought it at a plumbing boutique and they even called them asking to prove to me it was stamped. Obviously they were clueless.


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## skoronesa

dkonrai said:


> Am I that old fashioned? I still use hard risers for my water closets.
> Actual picture of my house. And yes it's keyless stop because all I had.
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> Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk







We use hard supplies a lot. You can't be too old fashioned, you don't even know how to solder. Just between yesterday and today I used like 7 hard supplies.



















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## dkonrai

Imho I think it just looks better? 
I hard pipe lavs that need tempering valves as well. I know, ss flex is faster. But man looks like crap on tempering valves under the lavs.

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## Toli

dkonrai said:


> Imho I think it just looks better?
> I hard pipe lavs that need tempering valves as well. I know, ss flex is faster. But man looks like crap on tempering valves under the lavs.
> 
> Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk


Hell yeah it looks better. We bend a lot of chrome. It was hard for me to learn it but I was taught a couple of tricks and that was it.


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## Tommy plumber

dkonrai said:


> Remodeled my bathroom. Figured need power for a bidet seat just in case?
> 
> Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk












I thought the outlet was for your electric coffee maker for when you're seated on the throne doing a nice big #2.


For real, one time I saw an electric coffee brewer on a shelf in my customer's bathroom behind the toilet.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

dkonrai said:


> I didn't have any cover tube left sorry....
> 
> Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk



you dont need any...just sand flux and wipe a thin coat of solder over the pipe wipe off with a cloth and you got chromed pipe...


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## dkonrai

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> you dont need any...just sand flux and wipe a thin coat of solder over the pipe wipe off with a cloth and you got chromed pipe...


Now that's cool!
Hate to admit this, but I do alot of propress....

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## Tommy plumber

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> you dont need any...just sand flux and wipe a thin coat of solder over the pipe wipe off with a cloth and you got chromed pipe...











Yes, tinning the pipe is probably not done much anymore.

As a side note, I was taught to tin the pipe prior to soldering it into a fitting with large copper pipe. For example copper pipe that is 4" and larger. I was taught to tin the pipe first, then insert it into the copper fitting, then solder.


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## Alan

I don't know if it's just junk material, but every time I tried to bend chrome supply lines the plating would flake off. It also flaked off upon tightening the compression nut/ferrule down to the valve and the flakes would cause leaks so I'd have to pull it back apart and pipe dope the ever-loving @$^@ out of it.

I decided that I'd have to do a lot of research to find quality chrome supplies before I started using them for myself. I also don't own a bender.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

Tommy plumber said:


> Yes, tinning the pipe is probably not done much anymore.
> 
> As a side note, I was taught to tin the pipe prior to soldering it into a fitting with large copper pipe. For example copper pipe that is 4" and larger. I was taught to tin the pipe first, then insert it into the copper fitting, then solder.



yes before the invention of tinning flux, larger fittings were tinned to make sure solder got to the bottom of the fitting...


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## ShtRnsdownhill

Alan said:


> I don't know if it's just junk material, but every time I tried to bend chrome supply lines the plating would flake off. It also flaked off upon tightening the compression nut/ferrule down to the valve and the flakes would cause leaks so I'd have to pull it back apart and pipe dope the ever-loving @$^@ out of it.
> 
> I decided that I'd have to do a lot of research to find quality chrome supplies before I started using them for myself. I also don't own a bender.





the chrome flakes on junky supplies, I rarely use a bender unless its a real tight bend I need to make, usually just my hands to bend them, they also have cheap spring benders that work good...but even a regular bender is under 20 bucks and they work good..


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## skoronesa

Tommy plumber said:


> Yes, tinning the pipe is probably not done much anymore.
> 
> As a side note, I was taught to tin the pipe prior to soldering it into a fitting with large copper pipe. For example copper pipe that is 4" and larger. I was taught to tin the pipe first, then insert it into the copper fitting, then solder.





DEFINITELY THIS^^^^


Heck, sometimes I pretin the sweat extensions on stops if there is some pesky water in the pipe.


Tinning flux is the shiznit btw.














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## hroark2112

I love the way a neatly bent supply looks. If I can, I use chrome supplies. Cheap ass customers and rude customers get PEX supplies.


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## Tommy plumber

Alan said:


> I don't know if it's just junk material, but every time I tried to bend chrome supply lines the plating would flake off. It also flaked off upon tightening the compression nut/ferrule down to the valve and the flakes would cause leaks so I'd have to pull it back apart and pipe dope the ever-loving @$^@ out of it.
> 
> I decided that I'd have to do a lot of research to find quality chrome supplies before I started using them for myself. I also don't own a bender.














Here's a tip: don't use brass ferrules on 3/8" supply lines.....:wink:


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## skoronesa

Alan said:


> I don't know if it's just junk material, but every time I tried to bend chrome supply lines the plating would flake off. It also flaked off upon tightening the compression nut/ferrule down to the valve and the flakes would cause leaks so I'd have to pull it back apart and pipe dope the ever-loving @$^@ out of it.
> 
> I decided that I'd have to do a lot of research to find quality chrome supplies before I started using them for myself. I also don't own a bender.



https://www.amazon.com/Imperial-Tool-368FH-Triple-Header/dp/B001HWFI0W/

I got mine from my local hardware store for 15$. Works great. I think the packaging on mine was superior tool brand but they all come from the same factory in the motherland of vachina.





ShtRnsdownhill said:


> the chrome flakes on junky supplies, I rarely use a bender unless its a real tight bend I need to make, usually just my hands to bend them, they also have cheap spring benders that work good...but even a regular bender is under 20 bucks and they work good..



I noticed this about a year or two ago. We get our supply lines from WB and occasionally the supply house. We got a ton of toilet supply lines where the chrome would flake off. This was never an issue with any other hard lines be they faucet or extnsions. I can only assume they were all plated in the same factory and they had a bad batch of some chemical or a new guy not knowing what he was doing.


This is no longer an issue for us and quality has returned to normal. I don't think switching brands will help as they all seem to come from the same factory.







Tommy plumber said:


> Here's a tip: don't use brass ferrules on 3/8" supply lines.....



You're kidding right? You don't use brass ferrules on the 3/8" hard supply lines? The brass ferrules that come with the stops?


I really hope you mean don't use brass ferrules on pex supplies.










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## GAN

Flex line (braided) and compression valves. New stuff around here is all about speed not really the nice looking quality work.

Some exceptions with high end work.


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## Plumbus

I use ridgid if the finish is other than chrome. If I supply the tubing, I always use Brasstech. Their plating, be it nickel or some other finish rarely flakes. 
The most likely finish to flake in my experience is oil rubbed bronze.


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## Fatpat

Tommy plumber said:


> ShtRnsdownhill said:
> 
> 
> 
> you dont need any...just sand flux and wipe a thin coat of solder over the pipe wipe off with a cloth and you got chromed pipe...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, tinning the pipe is probably not done much anymore.
> 
> As a side note, I was taught to tin the pipe prior to soldering it into a fitting with large copper pipe. For example copper pipe that is 4" and larger. I was taught to tin the pipe first, then insert it into the copper fitting, then solder.
Click to expand...


I tin anything over 3” haha
I’ll be doing some 6” next week, which I would prefer to braze, but we will see.


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## breplum

Recently sold my Ridgid 3/8" bender. Once I stopped doing process piping just never used it. SS flex only.
I did tin 2-1/2" and + until we started using ProPress. 
ProPress is a dream.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

Fatpat said:


> I tin anything over 3” haha
> I’ll be doing some 6” next week, which I would prefer to braze, but we will see.



brazing 6 inch, hell ill break out the oxy/acetylene torch for that...


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## Tommy plumber

You're kidding right? You don't use brass ferrules on the 3/8" hard supply lines? The brass ferrules that come with the stops?


I really hope you mean don't use brass ferrules on pex supplies.










.[/QUOTE]











Nope. I'm not kidding. I do NOT use brass ferrules with a chrome-plated, rigid W/C supply line.

Even with rough-brass supplies {copper under a sink} I never use brass ferrules on my supply lines.
I just installed {2} customer supplied W/C's today. Used {2} rigid chrome-plated supply lines; showed my {18} yr. old son how to use a tubing bender. But I did not use the brass ferrules that came with the {2} new Brasscraft angle stops that I installed.


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## Tommy plumber

Would any plumber install an MIP hose spigot into an FIP adapter without any dope or t-tape on the threads? Of course not. Why not? Because metal on metal will always leak. So with metal on metal, we have to dope or tape.

A brass ferrule on a chromed hard supply line is exactly that; metal on metal. That's why the brass ferrules on 3/8" give plumbers fits. I've seen guys dope the crap out of that connection so it doesn't drip.

Once I did a final at a new house; house had {4} W/C's. Three of my W/C installs leaked. Where? At the connection where the 3/8" supply line met the angle stop with the brass ferrule. {I am a finess plumber; I never used pipe dope on my 3/8" brass ferrules. If you get it perfect, they don't leak}.

But I found a better way. Nylon....

Nylon ferrules are like an "O" ring. They never ever leak.


Mark, try it out. You can thank me later.


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## Fatpat

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> Fatpat said:
> 
> 
> 
> I tin anything over 3” haha
> I’ll be doing some 6” next week, which I would prefer to braze, but we will see.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> brazing 6 inch, hell ill break out the oxy/acetylene torch for that...
Click to expand...

Most definitely, I have soft soldered 6” before(when a job specifications called for it)

But above 2” , I prefer to braze(when propress isn’t an option)


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## Tango

Tommy plumber said:


> Nope. I'm not kidding. I do NOT use brass ferrules with a chrome-plated, rigid W/C supply line.
> 
> Even with rough-brass supplies {copper under a sink} I never use brass ferrules on my supply lines.
> I just installed {2} customer supplied W/C's today. Used {2} rigid chrome-plated supply lines; showed my {18} yr. old son how to use a tubing bender. But I did not use the brass ferrules that came with the {2} new Brasscraft angle stops that I installed.


What do you use if you don't use ferules, magic dust?? Or you mean you buy brass ferrules separately from the stops?


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## Tommy plumber

Tango said:


> What do you use if you don't use ferules, magic dust?? Or you mean you buy brass ferrules separately from the stops?












Read post #28 Tango.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

Tommy plumber said:


> Would any plumber install an MIP hose spigot into an FIP adapter without any dope or t-tape on the threads? Of course not. Why not? Because metal on metal will always leak. So with metal on metal, we have to dope or tape.
> 
> A brass ferrule on a chromed hard supply line is exactly that; metal on metal. That's why the brass ferrules on 3/8" give plumbers fits. I've seen guys dope the crap out of that connection so it doesn't drip.
> 
> Once I did a final at a new house; house had {4} W/C's. Three of my W/C installs leaked. Where? At the connection where the 3/8" supply line met the angle stop with the brass ferrule. {I am a finess plumber; I never used pipe dope on my 3/8" brass ferrules. If you get it perfect, they don't leak}.
> 
> But I found a better way. Nylon....
> 
> Nylon ferrules are like an "O" ring. They never ever leak.
> 
> 
> Mark, try it out. You can thank me later.





thats completely wrong..its called a compression fitting because the brass ferrule digs into the pipe so it wont pull out under pressure, and if done correct it wont leak...
the only reason your getting away with a nylon ferrule on a hard supply is because it has no place to flex and come apart, it is a short piece between the tank and valve or faucet and valve..do that on a 10ft piece of flexible copper tubing and youll have one hell of an insurance claim, as the nylon ferrules dont dig nor do they hold onto the tubing and it will slide right out of the fitting, even faster on the hot side...


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## Tommy plumber

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> thats completely wrong..its called a compression fitting because the brass ferrule digs into the pipe so it wont pull out under pressure, and if done correct it wont leak...
> the only reason your getting away with a nylon ferrule on a hard supply is because it has no place to flex and come apart, it is a short piece between the tank and valve or faucet and valve..do that on a 10ft piece of flexible copper tubing and youll have one hell of an insurance claim, as the nylon ferrules dont dig nor do they hold onto the tubing and it will slide right out of the fitting, even faster on the hot side...













Au contraire mon frere. The nylon DOES dig into the copper. Try it.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

Tommy plumber said:


> Au contraire mon frere. The nylon DOES dig into the copper. Try it.


ill give it a test tomorrow and will let you know what i find...


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## skoronesa

Tommy plumber said:


> Would any plumber install an MIP hose spigot into an FIP adapter without any dope or t-tape on the threads? Of course not. Why not? Because metal on metal will always leak. So with metal on metal, we have to dope or tape.
> 
> A brass ferrule on a chromed hard supply line is exactly that; metal on metal. That's why the brass ferrules on 3/8" give plumbers fits. I've seen guys dope the crap out of that connection so it doesn't drip.
> 
> Once I did a final at a new house; house had {4} W/C's. Three of my W/C installs leaked. Where? At the connection where the 3/8" supply line met the angle stop with the brass ferrule. {I am a finess plumber; I never used pipe dope on my 3/8" brass ferrules. If you get it perfect, they don't leak}.
> 
> But I found a better way. Nylon....
> 
> Nylon ferrules are like an "O" ring. They never ever leak.
> 
> 
> Mark, try it out. You can thank me later.





I'm not saying it doesn't work, I'm sure it does. I just never heard of it before and never would have guessed to try that. I used to dope the ferrule a lot but now rarely do. Most of us don't. Just like flare fittings they shouldn't need any sealant as long as they are both clean surfaces.


Copper/brass seals work great, that's why copper crush seals have been around for so long. A little dope never hurts though. Or on a flare fitting for gas/oil just use a drop of oil.


If you have good threads on your pipe and fittings than just the left over cutting oil should be enough. That's why pipe and fittings have a full thread form where as bolts/nuts don't. It's also why they are tapered.








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## skoronesa

Tango said:


> What do you use if you don't use ferules, magic dust?? Or you mean you buy brass ferrules separately from the stops?





Tommy plumber said:


> Would any plumber install an MIP hose spigot into an FIP adapter without any dope or t-tape on the threads? Of course not. Why not? Because metal on metal will always leak. So with metal on metal, we have to dope or tape.
> 
> A brass ferrule on a chromed hard supply line is exactly that; metal on metal. That's why the brass ferrules on 3/8" give plumbers fits. I've seen guys dope the crap out of that connection so it doesn't drip.
> 
> Once I did a final at a new house; house had {4} W/C's. Three of my W/C installs leaked. Where? At the connection where the 3/8" supply line met the angle stop with the brass ferrule. {I am a finess plumber; I never used pipe dope on my 3/8" brass ferrules. If you get it perfect, they don't leak}.
> 
> But I found a better way. Nylon....
> 
> Nylon ferrules are like an "O" ring. They never ever leak.
> 
> 
> Mark, try it out. You can thank me later.









Did he edit it after you read it?
















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## Tango

skoronesa said:


> Did he edit it after you read it?
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No idea.


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## Toli

Tommy plumber said:


> Would any plumber install an MIP hose spigot into an FIP adapter without any dope or t-tape on the threads? Of course not. Why not? Because metal on metal will always leak. So with metal on metal, we have to dope or tape.
> 
> A brass ferrule on a chromed hard supply line is exactly that; metal on metal. That's why the brass ferrules on 3/8" give plumbers fits. I've seen guys dope the crap out of that connection so it doesn't drip.
> 
> Once I did a final at a new house; house had {4} W/C's. Three of my W/C installs leaked. Where? At the connection where the 3/8" supply line met the angle stop with the brass ferrule. {I am a finess plumber; I never used pipe dope on my 3/8" brass ferrules. If you get it perfect, they don't leak}.
> 
> But I found a better way. Nylon....
> 
> Nylon ferrules are like an "O" ring. They never ever leak.
> 
> 
> Mark, try it out. You can thank me later.


So you don’t use the brass ferrule on the inlet of a compression stop? Or are you saying you don’t use the brass ferrule on the outlet side because the supply tube is chromed? 

I’ll admit the chrome supply tubes gave me fits when I was learning how to install them but after learning a few tricks I don’t have any problems with chrome tubes and brass ferrules unless I screw them up.


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## Tommy plumber

skoronesa said:


> Did he edit it after you read it?
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Not really edit, I just removed a lot of the text that did not pertain to the subject matter of what I was discussing.


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## Tommy plumber

Toli said:


> So you don’t use the brass ferrule on the inlet of a compression stop? Or are you saying you don’t use the brass ferrule on the outlet side because the supply tube is chromed?
> 
> I’ll admit the chrome supply tubes gave me fits when I was learning how to install them but after learning a few tricks I don’t have any problems with chrome tubes and brass ferrules unless I screw them up.














I am talking about the 3/8" brass ferrules only. Those are the ones that I don't use. 

Now the 1/2" brass ferrule on the 1/2" copper stub out I do use. A little pipe dope on the threads of the angle stop {Brass Craft recommends a little oil} and that nut snugs nice and smooth onto the angle stop. Those 1/2" connections were never a problem.

But that pesky little 3/8" brass ferrule is notorious for leaking.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

Tommy plumber said:


> I am talking about the 3/8" brass ferrules only. Those are the ones that I don't use.
> 
> Now the 1/2" brass ferrule on the 1/2" copper stub out I do use. A little pipe dope on the threads of the angle stop {Brass Craft recommends a little oil} and that nut snugs nice and smooth onto the angle stop. Those 1/2" connections were never a problem.
> 
> But that pesky little 3/8" brass ferrule is notorious for leaking.





I have put thousands of angle valves together using brass ferrules for both the 1/2 and 3/8 speedy and the only times I had a leak was something was cracked or a bent ferrule, I put them together with some pipe dope..so either you are using crap valves or just arent tightening them up enough..
im going to try and see if a nylon ferrule digs into copper when I go out to the shop soon..


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## ShtRnsdownhill

Tommy plumber said:


> Au contraire mon frere. The nylon DOES dig into the copper. Try it.





ok experiment done..yes the nylon digs into the speedy supply, but not as good as the brass ferrule, on short supply lines it should be ok where no chance of pullout from the fitting is present, but on any length of tubing I would not chance it..
the nylon ferrule after loosening and taking the speedy out of the fitting was loose and could easily be moved around, the brass ferrule was tight on the speedy and with channel locks you could spin it...the nylon could be pulled off the speedy with channel locks, the brass ferrule was on there for good...in the end I would not use nylon ferrules on copper only pex....here are a few pictures..both were assembled without any pipe dope, I always use pipe dope on brass ferrules and it helps lubricate the threads and surface as you tighten it up and lets the ferrule crush more evenly, I dont use any pipe dope on nylon ferrules as it will allow the pipe to slip out too easily...


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## Tommy plumber

How many believers did I make here?

Master Mark? Are you there?


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## ShtRnsdownhill

Tommy plumber said:


> How many believers did I make here?
> 
> Master Mark? Are you there?



LOL..I didnt think it would, but I still wont trust it for what I said above...


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## Tommy plumber

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> LOL..I didnt think it would, but I still wont trust it for what I said above...









I agree with your astute observation. The brass ferrule won't fail. But if stuff hits the fan, the nylon ferrule can't be trusted.


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## skoronesa

Tommy plumber said:


> How many believers did I make here?
> 
> Master Mark? Are you there?





I believe it grips pretty good and I believe you use them successfully all the time. But you better believe I won't be doing that any time soon :biggrin:




I guess it's just one of those whore things, different strokes for different folks......














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## ShtRnsdownhill

Tommy plumber said:


> I agree with your astute observation. The brass ferrule won't fail. But if stuff hits the fan, the nylon ferrule can't be trusted.


I dont know what your saying? did you mean this to be can instead of cant?


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## CaptainBob

I don't trust those plastic ferrules on copper/chrome plated either, but I will use them on pex supplies


Supposedly you an use the brass ferrules on pex, both 5/8" and 3/8", I've never done it but I have seen it


I remember back in the early 2000's Brasscraft started shipping supply valves with 3/8" plastic ferrules instead of the brass ones, only for a short time...we used to buy them by the case, installed quite a few of them, never had any problems
I remember asking the factory rep of Brasscraft about using them on chrome supplies, which he said "No problem!!"
Shortly after that I noticed the next shipments we got had the brass ferrules in them..Hmmm...


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## Debo22

Digging through the tool box today I found my lockridge tools. Maybe I’ll make some rigid supplies again.


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## Tango

Debo22 said:


> Digging through the tool box today I found my lockridge tools. Maybe I’ll make some rigid supplies again.


What do they do?


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## Debo22

Tango said:


> What do they do?


Put a nut and friction ring on the supply tube, use one side of the tool to ream the tube a bit. Then you insert the other side of the tool in the tube and give it a spin. That little ball on the tool puts a ring around the tube so the friction ring and nut can’t come off.


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## Mark D

dkonrai said:


> Am I that old fashioned? I still use hard risers for my water closets.
> Actual picture of my house. And yes it's keyless stop because all I had.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk


Yes, I still use chrome risers most of the time, I usually pick up the 20"ones cause most folks are getting the comfort height closets nowadays and that way I always have the right length, looks so much better than a braided supply.


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## sparky

Tommy plumber said:


> Would any plumber install an MIP hose spigot into an FIP adapter without any dope or t-tape on the threads? Of course not. Why not? Because metal on metal will always leak. So with metal on metal, we have to dope or tape.
> 
> A brass ferrule on a chromed hard supply line is exactly that; metal on metal. That's why the brass ferrules on 3/8" give plumbers fits. I've seen guys dope the crap out of that connection so it doesn't drip.
> 
> Once I did a final at a new house; house had {4} W/C's. Three of my W/C installs leaked. Where? At the connection where the 3/8" supply line met the angle stop with the brass ferrule. {I am a finess plumber; I never used pipe dope on my 3/8" brass ferrules. If you get it perfect, they don't leak}.
> 
> But I found a better way. Nylon....
> 
> Nylon ferrules are like an "O" ring. They never ever leak.
> 
> 
> Mark, try it out. You can thank me later.


If you know how to bend the line right and get it straight I have never ever had a problem using the brass ferrells with chrome supply lines,you will be sorry one day for this I was always taught metal ferrells on chrome supply lines and plastic ferrells on plastic supply lines,workin for over 22yrs for me,you will have a blowout one day,it is coming::devil3:


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## sparky

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> thats completely wrong..its called a compression fitting because the brass ferrule digs into the pipe so it wont pull out under pressure, and if done correct it wont leak...
> the only reason your getting away with a nylon ferrule on a hard supply is because it has no place to flex and come apart, it is a short piece between the tank and valve or faucet and valve..do that on a 10ft piece of flexible copper tubing and youll have one hell of an insurance claim, as the nylon ferrules dont dig nor do they hold onto the tubing and it will slide right out of the fitting, even faster on the hot side...


What he said,100% correct:vs_clap:


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## sparky

skoronesa said:


> I'm not saying it doesn't work, I'm sure it does. I just never heard of it before and never would have guessed to try that. I used to dope the ferrule a lot but now rarely do. Most of us don't. Just like flare fittings they shouldn't need any sealant as long as they are both clean surfaces.
> 
> 
> Copper/brass seals work great, that's why copper crush seals have been around for so long. A little dope never hurts though. Or on a flare fitting for gas/oil just use a drop of oil.
> 
> 
> If you have good threads on your pipe and fittings than just the left over cutting oil should be enough. That's why pipe and fittings have a full thread form where as bolts/nuts don't. It's also why they are tapered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Only thing you need to put dope on is the threads on the stop that the compression nut tightens down on,friction causes heat and sometimes that nut will seize up on the threads,put dope on threads only,never ever on ferrells


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## Tango

> An intro is requested from all new members. In case you missed it, here is the link. https://www.plumbingzone.com/f3/.
> 
> The PZ is for Plumbing Professionals (those engaged in the plumbing profession)
> 
> Post an intro and tell our members where you are from, yrs in the trade, and your area(s) of expertise in the plumbing field.
> 
> This info helps members who are waiting to welcome you to the best plumbing site there is.
> 
> We look forward to your valuable input.
> 
> *This one is from me : Write more than one or two lines, elaborate. Are you proud of your trade? Show it! Talk about the jobs you've done, the path you took to get where you're at as a trades person, the amount of time spent in plumbing school(s) or years before you were eligible to take the journeyman exam etc.*


 @Mark D read the quote and post a lengthy intro. Your other thread will be locked until you do so.


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## MASTRPLUMB

n intro is requested from all new members. In case you missed it, here is the link. https://www.plumbingzone.com/f3/.

The PZ is for Plumbing Professionals ( those engaged in the plumbing profession)

Post an intro and tell our members where you are from, yrs in the trade, and your area(s) of expertise in the plumbing field.

This info helps members who are waiting to welcome you to the best plumbing site there is.

We look forward to your valuable input.


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

Mark D said:


> Yes, I still use chrome risers most of the time, I usually pick up the 20"ones cause most folks are getting the comfort height closets nowadays and that way I always have the right length, looks so much better than a braided supply.





who are you? post a proper intro or all your gona get are your balls broken...:devil3:


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## ShtRnsdownhill

sparky said:


> Only thing you need to put dope on is the threads on the stop that the compression nut tightens down on,friction causes heat and sometimes that nut will seize up on the threads,put dope on threads only,never ever on ferrells



that and just a side note, since alot of stainless steel nuts, bolts and hardware are now being used, you need to put a lube( pipe dope or anti seize) on any threads so they dont gall and lock together, thats the downside of stainless....


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...t-causes-it/&usg=AOvVaw2pcH6dmKOTJ1vOu3-V_UM4


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## Tango

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> that and just a side note, since alot of stainless steel nuts, bolts and hardware are now being used, you need to put a lube( pipe dope or anti seize) on any threads so they dont gall and lock together, thats the downside of stainless....
> 
> 
> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...t-causes-it/&usg=AOvVaw2pcH6dmKOTJ1vOu3-V_UM4


Up north we had to put anti seize, teflon and anti seize on stainless fittings or else 2-3 threads in and they'd lock permanently. I think it had to do with the dry weather.


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## dkonrai

I'm a huge fan of dope on threads and a little on ferrules.
I like true blue.
Curious what others here use for dope?

Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk


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## jakewilcox

I use them for most of my supply lines. They look nice and it distinguishes a plumber from a handy man. 

I also find that they look less messy, and I’ve had odd interference issue with kitchen sink pull outs with the braided type supply. Never had that problem with hard risers. 

I use the spring type tubing bender and make sure to get them straight. 

I use Rectorseal still. A small dab of it on the ferrule breaks the friction with the nut and allows me to get them tight. NO dope on the threads. 

Also, they last forever.


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## skoronesa

Debo22 said:


> Put a nut and friction ring on the supply tube, use one side of the tool to ream the tube a bit. Then you insert the other side of the tool in the tube and give it a spin. That little ball on the tool puts a ring around the tube so the friction ring and nut can’t come off.





Can you post pics of them being used? I just can't imagine what you're using them for? Are the supply tubes for plumbing? Why would you really need a friction ring?




That said, I have no idea what they are but they look like nicely made specialized tools so as a tool whore I must get some of my own. :biggrin:















.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> Can you post pics of them being used? I just can't imagine what you're using them for? Are the supply tubes for plumbing? Why would you really need a friction ring?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That said, I have no idea what they are but they look like nicely made specialized tools so as a tool whore I must get some of my own. :biggrin:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


 google is your friend...:vs_laugh:
the friction ring is a flat brass washer and a cone seal goes ontop of it, that tool makes a ridge so the supply line doesnt pull through the friction ring..the same as a brass ferrule, but the water tight seal is made by the cone seal, used on sinks and toilets...


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> google is your friend...:vs_laugh:
> the friction ring is a flat brass washer and a cone seal goes ontop of it, that tool makes a ridge so the supply line doesnt pull through the friction ring..the same as a brass ferrule, but the water tight seal is made by the cone seal, used on sinks and toilets...





I did a google search and came up empty. Feel free to show me the links you found.


I have seen cone seals before but only used them a handful of times for one piece toilets which had like 3" long supply lines that would never pull out.








.


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## V.A Hydro-ooter

skoronesa said:


> ShtRnsdownhill said:
> 
> 
> 
> google is your friend...<img src="http://www.plumbingzone.com/images/smilies/vs_laugh.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Vs Laugh" class="inlineimg" />
> the friction ring is a flat brass washer and a cone seal goes ontop of it, that tool makes a ridge so the supply line doesnt pull through the friction ring..the same as a brass ferrule, but the water tight seal is made by the cone seal, used on sinks and toilets...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a google search and came up empty. Feel free to show me the links you found.
> 
> 
> I have seen cone seals before but only used them a handful of times for one piece toilets which had like 3" long supply lines that would never pull out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

This illustration will give you an idea of how it works.


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## sparky

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> that and just a side note, since alot of stainless steel nuts, bolts and hardware are now being used, you need to put a lube( pipe dope or anti seize) on any threads so they dont gall and lock together, thats the downside of stainless....
> 
> 
> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...t-causes-it/&usg=AOvVaw2pcH6dmKOTJ1vOu3-V_UM4



Yes,I agree,I even had went to stainless fittings for awhile but they didn't tighten up right,had leaks so I went to brass only


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## sparky

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> google is your friend...:vs_laugh:
> the friction ring is a flat brass washer and a cone seal goes ontop of it, that tool makes a ridge so the supply line doesnt pull through the friction ring..the same as a brass ferrule, but the water tight seal is made by the cone seal, used on sinks and toilets...


If you use the friction ring and the cone it won't pull out anyways,the rubber cone compresses onto the supply line but I never use them,we used them on a school one time 20yrs ago and they still there with no groove in the copper supply line


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## MASTRPLUMB

sparky said:


> If you use the friction ring and the cone it won't pull out anyways,the rubber cone compresses onto the supply line but I never use them,we used them on a school one time 20 yrs ago and they still there with no groove in the copper supply line


Yeah that works good till you have a pressure surge in the line and they blow apart, seen that happen all over town one time,
Or the time a Landlord replaced a lav. faucet in a second floor unit,
supply line blew apart, upstrs, and downstairs both empty so nobody knew
anything till water was running out front door, all the downstairs ceilings and 
kitchen cupboards had to be replaced, but hey the owner saved paying a plumber :biggrin:


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## ShtRnsdownhill

sparky said:


> If you use the friction ring and the cone it won't pull out anyways,the rubber cone compresses onto the supply line but I never use them,we used them on a school one time 20yrs ago and they still there with no groove in the copper supply line





if the tube is short in length and pretty much straight it has no place to go in order to pull away, but put enough of an offset in the tube and you have the ( chance) of a pull out....so for a few more seconds of putting in a ridge you almost guarantee no pull out and no flood or water damage... 

its just the risk you wish to take...
heres a picture of what the ridge looks like..


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## Tommy plumber

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> if the tube is short in length and pretty much straight it has no place to go in order to pull away, but put enough of an offset in the tube and you have the ( chance) of a pull out....so for a few more seconds of putting in a ridge you almost guarantee no pull out and no flood or water damage...
> 
> its just the risk you wish to take...
> heres a picture of what the ridge looks like..












I worked for a company years ago where the owner was old-school. They used that set up {brass friction washer & black cone washer} at the connection to the shank of the ballcock. You know the big plastic nut that comes with each and every ballcock that most of us toss? Well that nut held the brass friction washer and the black cone washer up in the shank of the ballcock. This place also used sweat stops, we would take the chrome off of p-traps and solder the p-traps into copper waste arms.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

Tommy plumber said:


> I worked for a company years ago where the owner was old-school. They used that set up {brass friction washer & black cone washer} at the connection to the shank of the ballcock. You know the big plastic nut that comes with each and every ballcock that most of us toss? Well that nut held the brass friction washer and the black cone washer up in the shank of the ballcock. This place also used sweat stops, we would take the chrome off of p-traps and solder the p-traps into copper waste arms.



I use to use solder stops, several reasons I stopped using them and went to compression...I was nervous at first thinking what if this lets loose and floods, but after installing thousands I never had a failure...
1- with the use of pex and a copper stub out the risk of over heating the pex connection while chroming the stub out and soldering on the valve


2- usually the bathroom was finished and that burning flux smell turns the customer off


3- no flames by new paint or tile


4- I can cut the stub out so the nut for the speedy valve butts right up to the escutcheon so no need for chroming the stub out any more.


5- compression valves can go on with water dripping out of pipe.


6- if I have to adjust the speedy valve I can just loosen the nut and then tighten..easy ..no re soldering..


7- for super tight 1 piece toilets I can put the riser in the valve then slip the valve onto the stub out or spin the valve into the riser..


and im sure there are a few more..


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## skoronesa

sparky said:


> Yes,I agree,I even had went to stainless fittings for awhile but they didn't tighten up right,had leaks so I went to brass only





Tell me about it. The head for my minijetter got stuck on the hose. Put it on with no lube cuz general didn't say to and it was brand new to me. The galvanized 1/8" male steel fitting rusted just a touch and when I unscrew the stainless head it ripped the threads off the nipple.






.


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## skoronesa

MASTRPLUMB said:


> Yeah that works good till you have a pressure surge in the line and they blow apart, seen that happen all over town one time,
> Or the time a Landlord replaced a lav. faucet in a second floor unit,
> supply line blew apart, upstrs, and downstairs both empty so nobody knew
> anything till water was running out front door, all the downstairs ceilings and
> kitchen cupboards had to be replaced, but hey the owner saved paying a plumber :biggrin:





He prolly did save money. I'm sure he had insurance and if he was a diy kinda guy he had prolly hacked a bunch of stuff. So yeah he paid a deductible but the insurance paid for him to have all new without even displacing any tenants.








.


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## futz

I finally gave up a few years back and switched to flex tubes. My suppliers wouldn't keep hard supply tubes in stock. If I wanted them I had to special order in quantity. The flexes don't look great, but they are easy, and almost never leak.


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## sparky

futz said:


> I finally gave up a few years back and switched to flex tubes. My suppliers wouldn't keep hard supply tubes in stock. If I wanted them I had to special order in quantity. The flexes don't look great, but they are easy, and almost never leak.


And guaranteed not to blow out:biggrin:


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## Toli

sparky said:


> And guaranteed not to blow out:biggrin:




I dunno. I’ve seen plenty of braided supplies that have blown off at a crimped end.


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## Tango

From this summer. Looks like a cheap speedway. More details in the soaps a few moths ago.


.


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## skoronesa

Toli said:


> I dunno. I’ve seen plenty of braided supplies that have blown off at a crimped end.






Tango said:


> From this summer. Looks like a cheap speedway. More details in the soaps a few moths ago.
> 
> 
> .





The only braided supply lines we use are the WB ones which have a grey plastic nut for the ballcock. That grey plastic is zytel aka nylon with about 30% glass fiber fill. They don't fail.


When I use chrome supply lines I try to use brass nuts for the ballcock. If not the only plastic nuts I will use are the ones which come with fluidmaster fill valves. I have seen many of the cheap plastic nuts that come with kohlers crack.














.


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## Venomthirst

Usually they only crack when over tightened..

I've seen many fail...

The was a medical building that was closed for a holiday and on monday morning at 5 am I got a call entire place was 4" deep with water... like probably 5000 square foot building was a mess all for a stupid 5 dollar supply line... our basement made us go back put brass supplies with the brass nut as.well on 20.toilets in building


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## Toli

skoronesa said:


> The only braided supply lines we use are the WB ones which have a grey plastic nut for the ballcock. That grey plastic is zytel aka nylon with about 30% glass fiber fill. They don't fail.
> 
> 
> When I use chrome supply lines I try to use brass nuts for the ballcock. If not the only plastic nuts I will use are the ones which come with fluidmaster fill valves. I have seen many of the cheap plastic nuts that come with kohlers crack.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .




I’m not talking about split coupling nuts. I’m talking about the actual crimped connection coming apart.


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## skoronesa

Toli said:


> I’m not talking about split coupling nuts. I’m talking about the actual crimped connection coming apart.





Yeah, I understood. I have seen plenty of cheap flex supplies with pretty rusted and leaking crimp connections. Never seen or heard of the crimp blowing yet though, just the plastic nuts.












.


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## Tango

Venomthirst said:


> Usually they only crack when over tightened..
> 
> I've seen many fail...
> 
> The was a medical building that was closed for a holiday and on monday morning at 5 am I got a call entire place was 4" deep with water... like probably 5000 square foot building was a mess all for a stupid 5 dollar supply line... our basement made us go back put brass supplies with the brass nut as.well on 20.toilets in building


I've never seen a brass nut, you mean the 1/2" nut at the fill valve?


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## Toli

Tango said:


> Venomthirst said:
> 
> 
> 
> Usually they only crack when over tightened..
> 
> I've seen many fail...
> 
> The was a medical building that was closed for a holiday and on monday morning at 5 am I got a call entire place was 4" deep with water... like probably 5000 square foot building was a mess all for a stupid 5 dollar supply line... our basement made us go back put brass supplies with the brass nut as.well on 20.toilets in building
> 
> 
> 
> I've never seen a brass nut, you mean the 1/2" nut at the fill valve?
Click to expand...

It’s called a coupling nut. It’s actually 3/4”.


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## Tommy plumber

Toli said:


> It’s called a coupling nut. It’s actually 3/4”.










Using those is the professional way. They will not crack and flood someone's place.


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## skoronesa

Toli said:


> It’s called a coupling nut. It’s actually 7/8".



The 7/8" comes from the fact that the shank accepts 5/8" od pipe such as 1/2" nominal copper or 3/8" IPS pipe. The shank was originally made from 7/8" OD brass pipe and had an 1/8" thick wall.




















.


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## Toli

skoronesa said:


> The 7/8" comes from the fact that the shank accepts 5/8" od pipe such as 1/2" nominal copper or 3/8" IPS pipe. The shank was originally made from 7/8" OD brass pipe and had an 1/8" thick wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .




3/4, 7/8. Practically the same thing. 

I’ve heard them called 7/8 before. I’ve always called them 3/4 simply because they will screw on 3/4” threads.


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## sparky

Toli said:


> I’m not talking about split coupling nuts. I’m talking about the actual crimped connection coming apart.


Wasn't manufactured right,if it blew out at the crimp then it is a factory defect that wasn't caught,probably made on a Monday or a Friday :biggrin:


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## ironandfire

dkonrai said:


> Am I that old fashioned? I still use hard risers for my water closets.
> Actual picture of my house. And yes it's keyless stop because all I had.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk


 If up to me that's all I'd use. Looks professional.


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## ironandfire

Not limited to closet supplies either.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

ironandfire said:


> Not limited to closet supplies either.



I use to bend alot of copper, there are bending coppers with more copper content then non bending copper, you can still bend with a large radius bender, but copper prices went through the roof the same time pex and fittings dropped in price....so piping everything in copper didnt make financial sense unless the customer wanted to pay for it...and pex is much less labor to install...


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## ironandfire

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> I use to bend alot of copper, there are bending coppers with more copper content then non bending copper, you can still bend with a large radius bender, but copper prices went through the roof the same time pex and fittings dropped in price....so piping everything in copper didnt make financial sense unless the customer wanted to pay for it...and pex is much less labor to install...


 This is in my house. I have a place I go to that sells nothing but freight salvage. Anything and everything. At the time , they were selling copper at scrap prices. It's somewhat of a mix, some L , a little M and some ACR, but it is copper. 
As a matter of fact, The 1 1/4" for my boiler came from there(those low point drains were under three bucks).


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## ShtRnsdownhill

ironandfire said:


> This is in my house. I have a place I go to that sells nothing but freight salvage. Anything and everything. At the time , they were selling copper at scrap prices. It's somewhat of a mix, some L , a little M and some ACR, but it is copper.
> As a matter of fact, The 1 1/4" for my boiler came from there(those low point drains were under three bucks).


what is the white plastic clamped to the wall???


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> what is the white plastic clamped to the wall???



Flexible condenate tube terminated with pvc pipe to hold it ridgid. I assume the coupling on the end is to stop the corrugated pipe from sticking out.


.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> Flexible condenate tube terminated with pvc pipe to hold it ridgid. I assume the coupling on the end is to stop the corrugated pipe from sticking out.
> 
> 
> .


and its pointing right at an electrical outlet.....ZAP


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> and its pointing right at an electrical outlet.....ZAP



That's because the coupling will be attached to more pvc pipe which will run into a condensate pump which will be plugged into that outlet.


But you already knew that.




.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> That's because the coupling will be attached to more pvc pipe which will run into a condensate pump which will be plugged into that outlet.
> 
> 
> But you already knew that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


 he didnt say what it was or that he needed to finish..so your just guessing, what if he piped the relief valve to it???


and he said its a BOILER not an ac unit..


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## ironandfire

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> what is the white plastic clamped to the wall???


 The condensate drain.


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> he didnt say what it was or that he needed to finish..so your just guessing, what if he piped the relief valve to it???
> 
> 
> and he said its a BOILER not an ac unit..







Why would he use corrugated plastic on a relief valve? 



And yeah, a CONDENSING gas boiler. Ever heard of 'em? You think he's going to let that drip all over the floor and burn a hole through the concrete?








.


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## ironandfire

Maybe this'll help sort it out.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

ironandfire said:


> Maybe this'll help sort it out.


and the pvc pipe is missing...


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## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> That's because the coupling will be attached to more pvc pipe which will run into a condensate pump which will be plugged into that outlet.
> 
> 
> But you already knew that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I dont use condensate pumps, I usually gravity drain after neutralizing the condensate...most of the wall hungs are non condensating units, the last one in went on a 2nd floor boiler room and condensate line went down and out the foundation..


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> I dont use condensate pumps, I usually gravity drain after neutralizing the condensate...*most of the wall hungs are non condensating units*, the last one in went on a 2nd floor boiler room and condensate line went down and out the foundation..







I'm just gonna let that one speak for itself.






.


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> and the pvc pipe is missing...





It's missing because that's a before picture where the corrugated tube hasn't been attached to that little clear trap yet. Notice the blue foam has no evidence of a hanger for that pvc pipe.




But it's his own home so he can snap a current picture for you.








.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> I'm just gonna let that one speak for itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


ill fix it for you..most of the wall hungs I install are not condensing..look up takagi smarta$$...


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## ShtRnsdownhill

its like arguing with a fuking 2 year old...and they bring you down to there level..


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> ill fix it for you..most of the wall hungs I install are not condensing..look up takagi smarta$$...





I think we've had enough for the night.






.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> I think we've had enough for the night.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


 geez bro just having some fun..didnt mean to scare you...:vs_laugh::vs_laugh:
I dont like those wall hung combos...ill only put in the takagis and they come both condensate and non condensing...look it up and see...


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> geez bro just having some fun..didnt mean to scare you...:vs_laugh::vs_laugh:





Look bob, all machismo aside, I just want to make it clear that I too do this all in fun and I like that we can have regular discussions about things like how I have electrocuted myself while we are also calling eachother children and knit picking eachother's arguments.


I don't like everything about you, but I like more about you than most.






.


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> geez bro just having some fun..didnt mean to scare you...:vs_laugh::vs_laugh:
> I dont like those wall hung combos...ill only put in the takagis and they come both condensate and non condensing...look it up and see...





I did, and *you're correct*.


This time....:devil3:



.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> Look bob, all machismo aside, I just want to make it clear that I too do this all in fun and I like that we can have regular discussions about things like how I have electrocuted myself while we are also calling eachother children and knit picking eachother's arguments.
> 
> 
> I don't like everything about you, but I like more about you than most.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


 absolutely bro, ALL IN FUN ALWAYS...no harm no foul....passing along real info but having fun at the same time..otherwise it would be boring as hell ...
we should start charging for the entertainment it gives everyone..:wink:
I worked with a contractor and some of his guys during the day , you would swear they were ready to go out back and come to blows, but it was all just BS act they would put on and at the end of the day they would crack a few beers and then you would think they were best of buds...but anyone not knowing the act, the looks on their faces was priceless...


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## Bayside500

did this a week or so ago, i still have some old rigid brand 1/2" OD benders that i have used about 5 times in the last 25 years or so......

https://www.plumbingzone.com/picture.php?albumid=70&pictureid=7774


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## Bayside500

oh and that pedestal lav is 98 years old


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## skoronesa

Bayside500 said:


> did this a week or so ago, i still have some old rigid brand 1/2" OD benders that i have used about 5 times in the last 25 years or so......
> 
> https://www.plumbingzone.com/picture.php?albumid=70&pictureid=7774



That's really cool you got to install one and it looks like you did a good job.

If you ever change the fill valve get one with a brass shank and use brass nuts. 

You could also get a 2" brass nut off a toilet spud or an old flush valve.



Does it have a wooden seat?


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## Bayside500

i agree those white plastic parts look totally out of place, but came that way from factory, so no changing them for now, seat is white as well.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

Bayside500 said:


> i agree those white plastic parts look totally out of place, but came that way from factory, so no changing them for now, seat is white as well.


my sister bought one of those toilets and I got stuck installing it..PITA..but it came with polished brass cover plates to go over the bottom pipe hookups so you dont see anything but brass,,and the tank was clad in wood..


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## ironandfire

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> and the pvc pipe is missing...


 I know what you're getting at. My theory is that PVC and ABS are rated for it.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

ironandfire said:


> I know what you're getting at. My theory is that PVC and ABS are rated for it.


nope, that wasnt my point..I was just busting skosos balls...abs is not legal in my area, so all lines like that are pvc....im a big believer in keeping things simple..the more components you put in a system is just 1 more thing to fail..the few times I used a condensing unit I gravity drained it to a drain or outside...


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## skoronesa

ironandfire said:


> I know what you're getting at. My theory is that PVC and ABS are rated for it.





He meant in the last picture you posted, the pvc pipe was not there.




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## ironandfire

Bayside500 said:


> did this a week or so ago, i still have some old rigid brand 1/2" OD benders that i have used about 5 times in the last 25 years or so......
> 
> https://www.plumbingzone.com/picture.php?albumid=70&pictureid=7774


 ....that is a closet riser.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

ironandfire said:


> ....that is a closet riser.


the pic of your boiler..post #100


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## ironandfire

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> the pic of your boiler..post #100


 I'm lost.


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## ironandfire

Some more bent stuff.


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## skoronesa

ironandfire said:


> Some more bent stuff.





I love bending copper and you'll find I have many posts of it on here. I also love that you got filter housings you can purge and you ran the discharge to the drain.


What size is that? What kind of bender did you use? What kind of pipe did you use?








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