# M12 subcompact rotary hammer



## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

Anyone have any experience with this drill? I'm looking for a new hammer drill for 3/8" shields. The max hole size is 1/2" on the drill which is what I would be using. Anyone use this to know if it has enough balls for setting shields.


----------



## Tim`s Plumbing (Jan 17, 2012)

I wouldn`t get the 12v if you plan on having to drill alot of holes with it. I got the new Milwaukee 18v Fuel hammer drill a few months ago and I love it. It doesn`t get nearly as hot as a drill with brushes.


----------



## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

It's not the cordless drill like that. It's a specific hammer drill. The fuel is only a cordless drill and the "hammer drill" function is really a gimmick IMO. it would never run a 1/2" bit into concrete.


----------



## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2412-22xc

Anyone use this one?


----------



## Tim`s Plumbing (Jan 17, 2012)

I get it now I`m a little slow tonight, LOL I had not noticed that you where talking about a rotary hammer and not just a hammer drill.


----------



## dclarke (Dec 22, 2012)

Looks pretty badass. I know Makita has a new rotary hammer. 36 volt. Takes 2 18 volt batteries. I'm clueless to if the Milwaukee has enough balls for your purpose though it looks cool.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Plumbing Zone


----------



## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

When you say "shield" is this what you're referring to? Because the one pictured requires a 1/2" hole but accepts 5/16 UNC thread. If you're talking drop-in anchors, 3/8" rod requires a 12mm hole (at least with Ucann, whose anchors we use primarily.


----------



## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

http://www.itwredhead.com/product.php?Multi-Set-II-Drop-In-Anchors-12

This is what we call a shield here. It is internally threaded for 3/8" rod. Takes a 1/2" hole.


----------



## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

RW Plumbing said:


> http://www.itwredhead.com/product.php?Multi-Set-II-Drop-In-Anchors-12
> 
> This is what we call a shield here. It is internally threaded for 3/8" rod. Takes a 1/2" hole.


Same as what I use, we call it a 3/8" drop in or a 3/8" shot.

When you say shield, I picture this:
http://www.ucanfast.com/products/de...egory=Medium+Duty+Anchors&sc=180&productid=99

For block walls...


----------



## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

I've got one, RW. It's OK for small holes for plastic anchors in cinderblock and the like, but for 3/8 or 1/2 holes you're going to want something with a lot more punch.

This is my go to anchor drill for everything from tapcons on closet flanges on 5/8 drop-ins on carriers and motor mounts:










The Milwaukee hammerdrill is better for drilling holes in tile, though. The Hilti has too much punch and shatters tiles.


----------



## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

johnlewismcleod said:


> I've got one, RW. It's OK for small holes in plastic anchors in cinderblock and the like, but for 3/8 or 1/2 holes you're going to want something with a lot more punch.
> 
> This is my go to anchor drill for everything from tapcons on closet flanges on 5/8 drop-ins on carriers and motor mounts:


I knew I could count on you John. You beat me to getting all the cool stuff. That Hilti is spendy though... I guess I'll be dragging a cord around.


----------



## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

RW Plumbing said:


> I knew I could count on you John. You beat me to getting all the cool stuff. That Hilti is spendy though... I guess I'll be dragging a cord around.


It is, but trust me on it, brother. Save your money and get one asap...you'll love it like a child :yes:


----------



## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

Yes, I've used the Hilti cordless ones before. They are great. More power than most corded ones. If I had more commercial work, I would get one in a heartbeat.


----------



## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

I have one like this,
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-1-inch-sds-rotary-hammer-97743.html
got it on sale for $29. It has lasted four years and has saved me from pulling cabinets a good number of times. 

I would put this just below the ridgid sink wrench for best value.


----------



## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

From Hilti to harbor freight. This thread has now come full circle.


----------



## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

johnlewismcleod said:


> The Milwaukee hammerdrill is better for drilling holes in tile, though. The Hilti has too much punch and shatters tiles.


Don't use a hammer drill for tile anymore. I've broken way too many. You can get the carbide bits for tile that you use a regular drill for. Works good enough for small holes. The bits are cheap, and don't last long but better than breaking a tile.


----------



## newyorkcity (Nov 25, 2010)

*really?*



DesertOkie said:


> I have one like this,
> http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-1-inch-sds-rotary-hammer-97743.html
> got it on sale for $29. It has lasted four years and has saved me from pulling cabinets a good number of times.
> 
> I would put this just below the ridgid sink wrench for best value.


4 years? Heavy usage? I have never bought Harbor Freight, but two small Hilti sds driils of mine are shot from the flood. This is tempting.


----------



## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

IMO harbor freight tools are for homeowners. They are too cheaply built.


----------



## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

newyorkcity said:


> 4 years? Heavy usage? I have never bought Harbor Freight, but two small Hilti sds driils of mine are shot from the flood. This is tempting.


Not heavy usage, I did not think it would last as long as it has, but it is damn handy. 
In some of the hobby machinist magazines they have 1/2 off coupons for harbor freight. If your gonna buy cheap you should pay cheap so it's no skin lost.:thumbup:


----------



## karr (Dec 8, 2008)

We use Hilti, http://www.hilti.ru/holru/page/modu...4D15E6B956934F2A.node2?lang=ru&nodeId=-497243
In Russia Hilty is not cheap, but Hilty have good service.


----------



## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

I broke down and bought the Hilti TE-6S. I decided against cordless because I don't use a hammer drill very often, and I'm afraid I would have dead batteries every time I went to use it.


----------



## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

RW Plumbing said:


> I broke down and bought the Hilti TE-6S. I decided against cordless because I don't use a hammer drill very often, and I'm afraid I would have dead batteries every time I went to use it.


That, I'm sure, will be more drill than you ever need. Standard equipment for me depending on what crew I'm on. I can drill 5/8" drop in's (ø20MM hole) to hang 4" cast all day with that.


----------



## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

I like the light hammer feature for tile. I wonder how well it works. The trouble is finding a job to test it out. Don't want to brake a tile.


----------



## TC27 (Mar 10, 2012)

I can't really comment on the Milwaukee, but we have the 18xrp Dewalt rotary hammers and they barely have enough nuts to punch through the decking


----------



## eddiecalder (Jul 15, 2008)

I have the milwaukee 18v rotary hammer and it serves it function well. I have done about 50 1/2" holes for 3/8" drop in anchors on one battery. I think I paid $150 for the bare tool. 

The hilti will go all day (100+ 1/2" holes) but it is to expensive for how little I would use it.


Hilti and Bosch seem to make the best bits in my experience.


----------



## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

eddiecalder said:


> I have the milwaukee 18v rotary hammer and it serves it function well. I have done about 50 1/2" holes for 3/8" drop in anchors on one battery. I think I paid $150 for the bare tool.
> 
> The hilti will go all day (100+ 1/2" holes) but it is to expensive for how little I would use it.
> 
> Hilti and Bosch seem to make the best bits in my experience.


I paid twice that for a corded Hilti... That's the only problem with those, so F'in expensive. With how much I use it though, should be with me the next 10/20 years.


----------



## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

RW Plumbing said:


> Don't use a hammer drill for tile anymore. I've broken way too many. You can get the carbide bits for tile that you use a regular drill for. Works good enough for small holes. The bits are cheap, and don't last long but better than breaking a tile.


When I drill through tile, I use a dremel 1/8 carbide cutter to go through the tile. Then punch through the drywall with a 1/8 bit....never know what's behind the wall. If installing hilti toggle bolts(my most common wall anchor), I center my drill sizing guide on the 1/8 hole and trace out the size for 1/2" hole and use the dremel to remove all the tile out of that hole. Then continue through the drywal with the 1/2 bit. The whole process takes under 1 minute per 1/2 hole. The durabilty of that carbide cutter.....been using for the last 3 years to grind metal mostly and it still goes right through tile easy peazy.


----------



## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

The new Hilti has a light hammer mode designed for tile. I wonder how well it works.


----------

