# Coverting tub to shower in a high rise



## OverlandPlumber (Mar 4, 2014)

Hello Everyone,

New to the forum!

I'm in Los Angeles and currently doing a bathroom remodel in high rise building. We have removed the tub and planed on putting a shower drain. The drain is obviously 1-1/2" and the problem is the 2" is between the walls of the downstairs unit. I don't know what to do... Should I use an adapter from 2" to 1-1/2". Can inspector force me to intrude the downstairs unit?

Any advice is much appreciated.


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## Pac Rim Plumber (Jun 23, 2010)

I here the theme music...............


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## philoplumb (Nov 25, 2013)

WOW, Really? There is no way you are asking this question. Please hire a licensed plumbing contractor with a current business license in the city of Los Angeles to do this work.


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## redbeardplumber (Dec 4, 2012)

Haven't heard RJ's bite in awhile. RJ come here boy..


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## OverlandPlumber (Mar 4, 2014)

philoplumb said:


> WOW, Really? There is no way you are asking this question. Please hire a licensed plumbing contractor with a current business license in the city of Los Angeles to do this work.


 I'm a licensed plumber, doing residential service mostly. I don't have experience with high rises. I admit, maybe I put in my mouth more that I can chew...

I was hoping for an advise from someone who might have some experience with high rises or someone who might came across a similar situation and found a solution without having to access the lower floor unit which is my biggest concern.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

redbeardplumber said:


> Haven't heard RJ's bite in awhile. RJ come here boy..


 Redbeard, the Wild flamed out the Flames!... how's that for the bite?? And to the OP, if ya leinced.. read and do the intro..


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## Pac Rim Plumber (Jun 23, 2010)

Make sure there is not PT (post tension in the building)

Make sure though to post a full intro, take the ribbing that arises at time. You find a wealth of information from these crotchety old geezers as long as you have a sense of humor


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## AKdaplumba (Jan 12, 2010)

Stay out of other peoples unit


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## OverlandPlumber (Mar 4, 2014)

Pac Rim Plumber said:


> Make sure there is not PT (post tension in the building) Make sure though to post a full intro, take the ribbing that arises at time. You find a wealth of information from these crotchety old geezers as long as you have a sense of humor


 just posted my into, thanks for the tip.


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

I don't remember what they UPC says but under the IPC an 11/2 line can be used for a shower drain as long as it only has one shower head. Bath tub with one shower head is the same as a shower with one shower head


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## Nathan901 (Feb 11, 2012)

Every time I've seen a tub in a condo there was a rectangular opening for the drain. After the tub shoe was all hooked up they patch the holes by attaching a piece of plywood from the underside, and filling it with sandmix from the top side. 

Chip out all the concrete and break the board loose to find a 2" trap below. I usually cut the trap off and extend it to the front if the tub opening. If your lazy you can get away with off setting it out of the top of the existing trap. 

To patch it, cut a piece of plywood, because you dropped the old one into the drop ceiling below, and drill holes in it so you can loop a wire or rope through it and tie it to a stud up top to hold it up tight to the underside if the slab. After you patch it with concrete and let it set, just cut the wires flush, and it will be solid.


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## ToUtahNow (Jul 19, 2008)

I am in Los Angeles as well and would be willing to help, I'm just not sure how the best way would be. There is no way under the Code which would allow you a to use an 1 1/2" trap arm for a 2" trap.

A few things to start, most associations require permission for any remodels. Most CC&Rs say the association is responsible for and owns the plumbing in the wall or floor/ceiling assembly. That means any alterations in the wall or floor/ceiling assembly are alterations to the plumbing system that belong to the Associations. They probably have an Architectural Committee that needed to approve the plans prior to the work. Check with the GC to see if there are plans and were they approved by the Association.

The fact that this is a high rise, there should be an onsite building engineer. The building engineer should have a set of plumbing as-builts for you to thumb through. I seriously doubt the stack in the wall will be an 1 1/2" stack. As already mentioned, there will probably be a riser in the floor/ceiling assembly which will allow you to install a new X2" sanitary fitting. 

Mark


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## crown36 (May 21, 2013)

OverlandPlumber said:


> Hello Everyone,
> 
> New to the forum!
> 
> I'm in Los Angeles and currently doing a bathroom remodel in high rise building. We have removed the tub and planed on putting a shower drain. The drain is obviously 1-1/2" and the problem is the 2" is between the walls of the downstairs unit.


 Showers that have a flow rate of 5.7 GPM or less carry a drainage fixture unit value of 2 and have a minimum trap size of 1.5"

And yes, the neighbor below will have to be involved. There is virtually no way around that.

In the last few years, I am learning that condo type work is just not worth the bullsh!t that can come along with it. Ie; associations, planners, neighbors who have to be indirectly involved....etc

By the way, are you sure you're a plumber?


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## MACPLUMB777 (Jun 18, 2008)

ToUtahNow said:


> I am in Los Angeles as well and would be willing to help, I'm just not sure how the best way would be. There is no way under the Code which would allow you a to use an 1 1/2" trap arm for a 2" trap.
> 
> A few things to start, most associations require permission for any remodels. Most CC&Rs say the association is responsible for and owns the plumbing in the wall or floor/ceiling assembly. That means any alterations in the wall or floor/ceiling assembly are alterations to the plumbing system that belong to the Associations. They probably have an Architectural Committee that needed to approve the plans prior to the work. Check with the GC to see if there are plans and were they approved by the Association.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mark; this is what I was going to post also, you need to get the HOA, involved now or face possible lawsuit city,


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## ToUtahNow (Jul 19, 2008)

Triplecrown24 said:


> Showers that have a flow rate of 5.7 GPM or less carry a drainage fixture unit value of 2 and have a minimum trap size of 1.5"
> 
> And yes, the neighbor below will have to be involved. There is virtually no way around that.
> 
> ...


Not under his Code.

Mark


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## crown36 (May 21, 2013)

ToUtahNow said:


> Not under his Code.
> 
> Mark


 I see. I presume his code is not adopted from the IPC?


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## ToUtahNow (Jul 19, 2008)

Triplecrown24 said:


> I see. I presume his code is not adopted from the IPC?


No, he would be under the UPC.

Mark


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## newyorkcity (Nov 25, 2010)

I have been there. The GC gutted the bathroom, and you are ready to go. You are hoping that the trap is 2", but it is not. The cast iron starter fitting that picks up everything has an 1 1/2" tapping for the bathtub.
The GC tells you he has done this numerous times with a 2" x 1 1/2" no hub coupling, and the water goes down fine, and the inspector won't notice.
Don't do it. Do what I did. Refuse to go any further unless you can cut in a 2" fitting. Cover yourself with a letter to the building management describing the situation.
The code violating reducer can be exposed at any time during your career. 
Be the professional.


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## OverlandPlumber (Mar 4, 2014)

Thank you all for your advice! I couldn't find better answers elsewhere!!!

Here is what I've done:

Yesterday I've asked the building manager access for the unit below he asked "what for?" I told him I need to replace the arm and p-trap to 2". He said "no inspector would check that, just replace the p-trap" I said fine, just let me have access to the unit below (I didn't want to get into an argument at this point about code, just want to have access).

Got access today to the unit below. Found 2" branch from the main line, then a 90 and after the 90 a 2" x 1-1/2" x1-1/2" San-T (All Durham fittings). I've had only 12x12 access and had to cut the ceiling more to do my work. I've cut the below the San-T, installed 2" CI San-T with 2" arm and a 2" p-trap.

I can sleep good at night now!


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## Pac Rim Plumber (Jun 23, 2010)

OverlandPlumber said:


> Thank you all for your advice! I couldn't find better answers elsewhere!!!
> 
> Here is what I've done:
> 
> ...


Not having that sudden wake up in the middle of the night....Priceless.


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## OverlandPlumber (Mar 4, 2014)

ToUtahNow said:


> I am in Los Angeles as well and would be willing to help, I'm just not sure how the best way would be. There is no way under the Code which would allow you a to use an 1 1/2" trap arm for a 2" trap. A few things to start, most associations require permission for any remodels. Most CC&Rs say the association is responsible for and owns the plumbing in the wall or floor/ceiling assembly. That means any alterations in the wall or floor/ceiling assembly are alterations to the plumbing system that belong to the Associations. They probably have an Architectural Committee that needed to approve the plans prior to the work. Check with the GC to see if there are plans and were they approved by the Association. The fact that this is a high rise, there should be an onsite building engineer. The building engineer should have a set of plumbing as-builts for you to thumb through. I seriously doubt the stack in the wall will be an 1 1/2" stack. As already mentioned, there will probably be a riser in the floor/ceiling assembly which will allow you to install a new X2" sanitary fitting. Mark


Thank you so much for willing to help, I appreciate it very much.


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## BC73RS (Jan 25, 2014)

..."what for?"... oh my... typical...face palm.
Glad to hear you got it done. Good for you.:thumbsup:


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## OverlandPlumber (Mar 4, 2014)

newyorkcity said:


> I have been there. The GC gutted the bathroom, and you are ready to go. You are hoping that the trap is 2", but it is not. The cast iron starter fitting that picks up everything has an 1 1/2" tapping for the bathtub. The GC tells you he has done this numerous times with a 2" x 1 1/2" no hub coupling, and the water goes down fine, and the inspector won't notice. Don't do it. Do what I did. Refuse to go any further unless you can cut in a 2" fitting. Cover yourself with a letter to the building management describing the situation. The code violating reducer can be exposed at any time during your career. Be the professional.


Right on!!


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## Fast fry (May 19, 2012)

OverlandPlumber said:


> Right on!!


So what type material ptrap and fixture outlet pipe did u use going into the actual drain of shower


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## drain surgeon (Jun 17, 2010)

Two things that I will never understand.
#1 Why are there so many versions of code, and even more interpretations of the codes ? I've said it before. With the exception differences in climate and the need to have different codes due to climate I can think of no reason for there being multiple versions of code. #2 A tub being drained contains a large volume of water trying to go down the drain all at once whereas a shower drains as the water is being delivered. Why then do we have an 1 1/2 trap on a tub but a 2 on a shower? Ponderous man just ponderous.


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## OverlandPlumber (Mar 4, 2014)

Fast fry said:


> So what type material ptrap and fixture outlet pipe did u use going into the actual drain of shower


cast iron with no hub couplings


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## evan (Dec 10, 2010)

drain surgeon said:


> Two things that I will never understand.
> #1 Why are there so many versions of code, and even more interpretations of the codes ? I've said it before. With the exception differences in climate and the need to have different codes due to climate I can think of no reason for there being multiple versions of code. #2 A tub being drained contains a large volume of water trying to go down the drain all at once whereas a shower drains as the water is being delivered. Why then do we have an 1 1/2 trap on a tub but a 2 on a shower? Ponderous man just ponderous.


I think it's because when you get out of the tub and drain it, you walk away. You're not waiting there until it's done so you dont care how long it takes.

In the shower you want it all to go away. Showering in ankle deep water is not cool.

Then again, most tubs are tub & shower anyways. Who takes baths nowadays?


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## Fast fry (May 19, 2012)

OverlandPlumber said:


> cast iron with no hub couplings


Ok just checking . So with cast iron been used what type of shower and drain was it . Membrane?


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## OverlandPlumber (Mar 4, 2014)

Fast fry said:


> Ok just checking . So with cast iron been used what type of shower and drain was it . Membrane?


 yes, the shower will be hot-moped


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

OverlandPlumber said:


> yes, the shower will be hot-moped


Does anywhere else in the USA get showers hot mopped besides SoCal?


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## love2surf927 (Dec 22, 2011)

Michaelcookplum said:


> Does anywhere else in the USA get showers hot mopped besides SoCal?


That is odd isnt it? Why would it be a regional thing so isolated just here in so cal? Just to put it out there, I feel they are an excellent waterproofing, I have never seen one leak.


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## Plumbus (Aug 4, 2008)

Michaelcookplum said:


> Does anywhere else in the USA get showers hot mopped besides SoCal?


Northern California.

As for the tee replacement, if I were your inspector, I would require the proper Mission couplings (CP200 bottom and side, CP215 top) on all three connections. I would accept the Fernco equal.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

OverlandPlumber said:


> Hello Everyone,
> 
> New to the forum!
> 
> ...


here in ky we are allowed to use 1 1/2" pipe for a shower drain,dont know bout los angeles or California,but just get an 1 1/2" shower drain if allowed in that area,you should know your code if you are a licensed plumber.


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