# basket strainers keep coming loose?



## curtis2kul

Anyone ever run into this problem? This is the second time this has happened to me on two different kitchen sinks? :furious:


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

If it is a Kohler sink, it's expected.

If they are stainless steel sinks, they may not be cantered, allowing for a positive seal.


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## ranman

I fix other peoples strainers all the time on big trim out jobs.

the last ones was due to much putty. when it squeezes out the bottom it makes it almost impossible to get tight enough. or putty is not soft


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## Dun' Right

Just another reason I use silicone.


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## Pipe Dreams

ranman said:


> I fix other peoples strainers all the time on big trim out jobs.
> 
> the last ones was due to much putty. when it squeezes out the bottom it makes it almost impossible to get tight enough. or putty is not soft


That's why you run hot water in the sink while you snug up the strainer.


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## rombo

I have replaced hundred's of basket strainers and only a few have been siliconed, That be said the only reason they ever need replacement is because they leak and rust from the bottom.

I use silicone on everything strainers, P.O's, waste and overflows, ect

Why putty is even still made baffles me.


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## Redwood

I've had very good luck using double cup basket strainers without ever having to glue them in with Silicone RTV. The ones with the large nut just have too much surface area under the nut so there is a bunch of friction and they don't tighten up well.

Not the ones that I use, I like stainless and brass nuts but the picture works.









The Kohler Duo-strainer works well too...

Other than that its pretty much junk so glue them in and make it tough on the guy behind you...:furious::furious:


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## plumb4fun

My supply house sells the JB style with the three thumb screws. They stay tight and install quick. Ditto on skiping the ones with the one large mounting nut.


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## Redwood

plumb4fun said:


> My supply house sells the JB style with the three thumb screws. They stay tight and install quick. Ditto on skiping the ones with the one large mounting nut.


Yep those are like the Kohler DuoStrainer...


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## PlumberJake

Redwood said:


> I've had very good luck using double cup basket strainers without ever having to glue them in with Silicone RTV. The ones with the large nut just have too much surface area under the nut so there is a bunch of friction and they don't tighten up well.
> 
> Not the ones that I use, I like stainless and brass nuts but the picture works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kohler Duo-strainer works well too...
> 
> Other than that its pretty much junk so glue them in and make it tough on the guy behind you...:furious::furious:


These are what I use. Can you imagine taking one off in a few decades? Should be a cinch. Not a knuckle-busting PITA like the ones with the large nut.


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## Redwood

PlumberJake said:


> These are what I use. Can you imagine taking one off in a few decades? Should be a cinch. Not a knuckle-busting PITA like the ones with the large nut.


On those large nut ones most of the nuts are die cast zinc. I've got this screwdriver that I just stick in there and give a twist. They break right off! 

This screwdriver is *kinda big* and it also does a pretty fair job of prying the engine heads loose on the BBC motor so we can lift the heads off the studs...:laughing:


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## Will

plumb4fun said:


> My supply house sells the JB style with the three thumb screws. They stay tight and install quick. Ditto on skiping the ones with the one large mounting nut.



I've started using those with good success. I've had good success with the regular strainers too. Went to the ones with the 3 nuts cause they are easier to install and last longer.


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## GREENPLUM

curtis2kul said:


> Anyone ever run into this problem? This is the second time this has happened to me on two different kitchen sinks? :furious:


 
Yes i have ran into this problem. 

Were the strainers set with plumbers putty?

Use 100% silicone and your problems will disappear

Dont worry about the guy behind you, if he cant get a basket strainer out b/c its siliconed in hes prolly a handyhack, real plumbers have strong arms.:thumbsup:


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## RealLivePlumber

Redwood said:


> On those large nut ones most of the nuts are die cast zinc. I've got this screwdriver that I just stick in there and give a twist. They break right off!
> 
> This screwdriver is *kinda big* and it also does a pretty fair job of prying the engine heads loose on the BBC motor so we can lift the heads off the studs...:laughing:


 
I wonder how many know "BBC":thumbsup:

OP, you gotta use a quality strainer. Those $2.00 will give you problems all day. 

Ain't even gettin into the putty comments:no:


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## Redwood

GREENPLUM said:


> Use 100% silicone and your problems will disappear
> 
> Dont worry about the guy behind you, if he cant get a basket strainer out b/c its siliconed in hes prolly a handyhack, real plumbers have strong arms.:thumbsup:


Yea we'll just bend the crap outta that cheap 22 gauge stainless steel sink you installed too.... :laughing:


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

The disposal I removed today, rotted plumber's putty underneath the the flange, it had been leaking for 10 years most likely. 


I don't keep plumber's putty on the truck anymore, only small squeeze tubes of white and clear silcone caulk. 

The last 50 lav sink drains, all plumbers putty, every single one of them were rotted putty under the flange, broke up and was not water tight.


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## Protech

A few licks from the torch or heat gun, and that strainer will come right out with very little effort. 



Redwood said:


> Yea we'll just bend the crap outta that cheap 22 gauge stainless steel sink you installed too.... :laughing:


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## Pipe Dreams

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> The disposal I removed today, rotted plumber's putty underneath the the flange, it had been leaking for 10 years most likely.
> 
> 
> I don't keep plumber's putty on the truck anymore, only small squeeze tubes of white and clear silcone caulk.
> 
> The last 50 lav sink drains, all plumbers putty, every single one of them were rotted putty under the flange, broke up and was not water tight.


I've never seriously considered using silicone before but after reading this board for a while I can see how it might not be as butch as I thought it was. How long do you have to wait to check for leaks? or do you just silicone it and let it cure overnight?


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## rombo

Pipe Dreams said:


> I've never seriously considered using silicone before but after reading this board for a while I can see how it might not be as butch as I thought it was. How long do you have to wait to check for leaks? or do you just silicone it and let it cure overnight?


Check immediately. Have never had a single problem even with filling the sink right up


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

Silicone doesn't have a water base, so water won't dissolve/break down the product.


Silicone will tack up in 10 minutes, and if you pour water over it you'll see that it beads up instantly. 


I've never stated a wait time for anything I've siliconed in, no matter what it is. I agree; it used to be taboo to use silicone in this design but when you are putting your hands on product that obviously got wet and slowly broke down, and then leaks over time, that's not a solid waterproof connection.



I truly believe a lot of leaks are caused by overuse of putty that slowly oozes out over time, leaving the connection loose to leak and there goes the degredation of the putty. 


To each their own, but the habit of silicone only prevents a callback, and no chance of incorrect usage on a composite sink or cultured marble where the oil based putty stains/deteriorates the sink over time. First mention is, "Well, they have special putty for that." 

and then I say,

"Where in the F**K was that shlt 8,10,14,20 years ago when I was using putty on everything?"


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## Airgap

Protech said:


> A few licks from the torch or heat gun, and that strainer will come right out with very little effort.


Same technique on acrylic tubs or sinks?


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## Protech

Yes.



Airgap said:


> Same technique on acrylic tubs or sinks?


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## Airgap

Protech said:


> Yes.


If I blacken somebody's fixture, I comin' after you....:laughing:


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## Protech

You have to know how to throw heat accurately. Take it slow the first time.



Airgap said:


> If I blacken somebody's fixture, I comin' after you....:laughing:


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## RealLivePlumber

Give that a shot on a Corian, or any solid surface bowl......:no:


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## pauliplumber

Just like anything else, putty has to be installed properly to work properly. Soften it, don't use too much, use a decent strainer and you will NEVER have a problem.

If you fail to do any of the above, yes you should use silicone.


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## Protech

RealLivePlumber said:


> Give that a shot on a Corian, or any solid surface bowl......:no:


Been there, done that. Again, you have to throw the heat on the metal strainer only and you can't go nuts. Just enough to soften the silicone.


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## GREENPLUM

pauliplumber said:


> Just like anything else, putty has to be installed properly to work properly. Soften it, don't use too much, use a decent strainer and you will NEVER have a problem.
> 
> If you fail to do any of the above, yes you should use silicone.


 
I install alot of customer provided materials like cheap lavatories, 3 compartment sinks, and tubs with plastic slip joint W&O. Silicone is great insurance for me that there crappy materials wont leak. Ive been there done that with the putty, its useless to me.

The joint made with silicone wont ever leak unlike putty over time, the only reason you would take it out is to replace the entire fixture.


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## GREENPLUM

RealLivePlumber said:


> Give that a shot on a Corian, or any solid surface bowl......:no:


 
easy peasy lemon squeesy :yes:


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## Widdershins

> Dont worry about the guy behind you, if he cant get a basket strainer out b/c its siliconed in hes prolly a handyhack, real plumbers have strong arms.


 I just heat 'em up with a heat gun/paint stripper and pop 'em right out.


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## Widdershins

Airgap said:


> Same technique on acrylic tubs or sinks?


 Heat 'em from the underside, moving the heat gun around to heat the underside of the strainer evenly.


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## Widdershins

I do a lot of Kosher Kitchens (One sink for dairy and one sink for meat) in Seattle's Seward Park neighborhood. One of the rituals involved in maintaining the Kosher status is to pour a stock pot of boiling water into the sink, and neither silicone or linseed based putty is going to stand up to that kind of regular abuse. -- So I've got in the habit of using Hercules Sta Put Ultra Plumbers Putty.

It's a great product, no linseed oil or similar adulterates to stain natural or man made stones, excessive heat doesn't seem to bother it, it's shrink proof and it's guaranteed not to rot.


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## Protech

RTV silicone will in fact take that kind of abuse. What do you think is sealing the water pump housing on your automotive engine right now? If it can take temps in excess of 215f, oil exposure and vibration for over a decade, why wouldn't it hold on a sink?



Widdershins said:


> I do a lot of Kosher Kitchens (One sink for dairy and one sink for meat) in Seattle's Seward Park neighborhood. One of the rituals involved in maintaining the Kosher status is to pour a stock pot of boiling water into the sink, *and neither silicone* or linseed based putty *is going to stand up to that kind of regular abuse*. -- So I've got in the habit of using Hercules Sta Put Ultra Plumbers Putty.
> 
> It's a great product, no linseed oil or similar adulterates to stain natural or man made stones, excessive heat doesn't seem to bother it, it's shrink proof and it's guaranteed not to rot.


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## Widdershins

Protech said:


> RTV silicone will in fact take that kind of abuse. What do you think is sealing the water pump housing on your automotive engine right now? If it can take temps in excess of 215f, oil exposure and vibration for over a decade, why wouldn't it hold on a sink?


 Hadn't thought about it that way, but You're right.

OTOH, I'm not going back to the Rabbinical Council to get their approval for yet another product. 

4 + weeks of waiting for approval for the Sta Put Ultra was long enough.


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## Richard Hilliard

Is this 1 strainer and a disposal? If this is the case the dispsoal is not on straight and vibrates.


2 strainers and they come loose,improper install


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## Airgap

I'm not saying i don't use silicone, but it's NOT my first choice...

KS and Lavs....putty 

t/s.....depends


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## Squeak TN

Well here is my 2cents on it all, my opinion whatever you use 98% of the time as long as the product is not defected. I think u can use whatever flips your switch! Just remember proper installation and take a little pride also have some kind of proper tool that works for the job at hand and try not to get n too big of a hurry. Cause sometimes u got to use what ever u got handy... But that's just me "I don't know it all, nor will i ever know it all"..

Sent from my iPad using PlumbingZone


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## BROOKLYN\PLUMB

Widdershins said:


> I do a lot of Kosher Kitchens (One sink for dairy and one sink for meat) in Seattle's Seward Park neighborhood. One of the rituals involved in maintaining the Kosher status is to pour a stock pot of boiling water into the sink, and neither silicone or linseed based putty is going to stand up to that kind of regular abuse. -- So I've got in the habit of using Hercules Sta Put Ultra Plumbers Putty.
> 
> It's a great product, no linseed oil or similar adulterates to stain natural or man made stones, excessive heat doesn't seem to bother it, it's shrink proof and it's guaranteed not to rot.


The koshering for passover only needs to be done once a year and I've never seen a problem with one big pot of boiling water but you could upsell them a passover kitchen in the basement very popular here

Sent from my EVO 4G using Plumbing Zone


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## curtis2kul

I think im just going to switch to silicone instead of putty! I may go ahead a take it back apart and switch it. I try not to use too much putty on anything.


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## 422 plumber

I installed a cast iron slop sink on a 3" trap standard today. I used silicon on the strainer. It leaked and I cursed this thread. I had to hike about 3 minutes out to my truck to get some putty, and 3 minutes back. Unscrew the flange and clean the silicon, then apply the putty. Total time wasted: 10 minutes. Screw the silicon.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

I've got really good video I took of a garbage disposal last night that I replaced. 

I'll show you what "thin and small amounts of putty" look like after just 7 years under a garbage disposal flange. 


You can tell by the way I pull up on the flange that the putty is hard as a rock, you can see the black where it has been leaking, and how it's not sealing properly.


If I get time tonight I'll build the video for all to see.


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## user4

Just use Mighty Putty, what the hell is wrong with you guys anyway?


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> I've got really good video I took of a garbage disposal last night that I replaced.
> 
> I'll show you what "thin and small amounts of putty" look like after just 7 years under a garbage disposal flange.
> 
> 
> You can tell by the way I pull up on the flange that the putty is hard as a rock, you can see the black where it has been leaking, and how it's not sealing properly.
> 
> 
> If I get time tonight I'll build the video for all to see.


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## Epox

Very nice vid. I've removed many a disposal flange or strainers that looked like that but wasn't leaking underneith. You have a vid of removing a 10 year old flange siliconed in? I do tons of remods and service that time to time requires new strainers or even disposal replacements. Seems to me they would be a pita to remove.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

This flange was leaking underneath, but the customer claimed it was leaking through the housing. I didn't inspect to see if it was flange only that was the reason for replacement or not. It was sight unseen for me and I still have the disposal on the truck, I can check for leaks. He had an Evolution Series Premier garbage disposal sitting there for me to install. He was already committed to a replacement so I didn't want to jog that out of the equation.


What I've found on silicone over time is it does a good job at sealing, and when it gets real old it will stick to one side (flange) or the other (sink, tub, or vanity) and rarely does it leak. 

Of course, no product is foolproof, but I've had much better luck with positive sealing with silicone. Over the years, I hated using putty because I could come back to a job I did a year later, damn sink strainers were hand loose and I used a really small amount of putty. It's compressing/oozing out so you're asking a paper thin amount of putty that's not resilient to water to not break down?

I used putty for over 2 decades so I'm a guilty party just as much as the next plumber... just seems to be a better application with silicone. 

Sometimes silicone is a nightmare to get off of tile/drain openings.


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## plumb nutz

I like to use silicone on new work, will last longer, seals better, but on service work?. Am I supposed to say "Here you go ma'am, new pop-up/strained installed... just don't use it for 24 hrs so the silicone I used can dry..."?


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## Associated Plum

These are the one I perfer

http://i32.tinypic.com/5btwep.jpg

http://i31.tinypic.com/ejykqp.jpg


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

plumb nutz said:


> I like to use silicone on new work, will last longer, seals better, but on service work?. Am I supposed to say "Here you go ma'am, new pop-up/strained installed... just don't use it for 24 hrs so the silicone I used can dry..."?


 


Smear silicone anywhere, pour a little water on it and watch it bead up instantly. Just like oil and water, they don't mix. 


I'm running the sinks as soon as I'm installing the assemblies, checking for leaks.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

Associated Plum said:


> These are the one I perfer
> 
> http://i32.tinypic.com/5btwep.jpg
> 
> [URL="http://i31.tinypic.com/ejykqp.jpg"]http://i31.tinypic.com/ejykqp.jpg[/URL]


 
Those were nice items that wolverine brass sold, but our boss at the time told us we had to ask first before installing those since it is advertising in a well viewed area.


Sticker on disposal only when the door is open to the cabinet, that's one thing, looking down in a sink, different story.


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## Associated Plum

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> Those were nice items that wolverine brass sold, but our boss at the time told us we had to ask first before installing those since it is advertising in a well viewed area.
> QUOTE]
> 
> If it is hidden what good is the advertising?
> 
> Let's see ISE puts their name on their strainer, some faucet manufacturers put their name on the front of the faucets for everyone to see. Why should we be any different.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

Associated Plum said:


> DUNBAR PLUMBING said:
> 
> 
> 
> Those were nice items that wolverine brass sold, but our boss at the time told us we had to ask first before installing those since it is advertising in a well viewed area.
> QUOTE]
> 
> If it is hidden what good is the advertising?
> 
> Let's see ISE puts their name on their strainer, some faucet manufacturers put their name on the front of the faucets for everyone to see. Why should we be any different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the majority of customers they would never care, but in cincinnati, where there is some old wealth neighborhoods. Your company name shows up far better than most imprinted designs, which is good for business, but see below.
> 
> I agree about it being hidden. But I still put stickers on garbage disposals because when it breaks, they are staring at the sticker when they open the door to work on it.
> 
> Same as a water heater. When they go to work on it, whether it is in a closet or wide open in a basement, I need some reason for them to reach out to me by use of that sticker.
> 
> 
> But we had a few complain, and their statement was, "I already know who to call, that's why you all did the work."
Click to expand...


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## easttexasplumb

Putty has been good to our trade for many many years, and now you guys just want to let it sit on a shelf and collect dust. I can't belive after the long relationship you have had with putty you are so willing to just give it up. 


Putty is non toxic, Try eating your silicone
Putty has a pleasant odor, silicone not so much
Putty easily cleans up, silicone swears everywhere
Putty can be molded into shapes and designes, silicone can't

So just because silicone makes a better seal, does not mean putty is still not your friend :jester:.


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## plumb nutz

Putty is great. When my son is with me he uses it as modeling clay. If we get really bored we toss a few putty balls at each other. No, my can ain't going to get dusty


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## Dun' Right

easttexasplumb said:


> Putty has been good to our trade for many many years, and now you guys just want to let it sit on a shelf and collect dust. I can't belive after the long relationship you have had with putty you are so willing to just give it up.
> 
> 
> Putty is non toxic, Try eating your silicone
> Putty has a pleasant odor, silicone not so much
> Putty easily cleans up, silicone swears everywhere
> Putty can be molded into shapes and designes, silicone can't
> 
> So just because silicone makes a better seal, does not mean putty is still not your friend :jester:.


Putty is like a stripper girlfriend. She'll only hurt you in the end. :icon_cheesygrin:


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

*I gots my own house band when I make these videos!*





 


This is me just working a normal work week. Constantly seeing plumbers putty destroyed, leaking. 

Wanted to make sure I showed the proof on the commercial side as much as the residential. 


This was my last call tonight at a pizza restaurant.


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## plumb nutz

So that silicone you use, is it food grade?
I mean, homeowner, probably not soaking food in prep sinks, but restaurants...
Just wondering...


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## Ishmael

Killertoiletspider said:


> Just use Mighty Putty, what the hell is wrong with you guys anyway?


Yes, but make sure the Mighty Putty gets applied to the outside of the basket strainer - you really want to make sure you bond the cup to the underside of the sink. :laughing:


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

plumb nutz said:


> So that silicone you use, is it food grade?
> I mean, homeowner, probably not soaking food in prep sinks, but restaurants...
> Just wondering...


 

Doesn't need to be. Is oil based putty "food grade" like what failed countless times before? 


Any food being prepped in that sink is a clear violation, amoungst other things. 


Watch this video, 





 

*Want some strainer with that putty?* :laughing:

Try fixing that wall sink faucet so you don't have it leaking all over through the work area your empthasis is on in the camera view. 

Job security; it'll be leaking in the exact same fashion in less than 10 years. Job security when you overuse putty, use putty period. He didn't even bother to wipe the underside clean where it mounts or the excess.


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## futz

plumb nutz said:


> I like to use silicone on new work, will last longer, seals better, but on service work?. Am I supposed to say "Here you go ma'am, new pop-up/strained installed... just don't use it for 24 hrs so the silicone I used can dry..."?


When you silicone a strainer or pop-up they can be used immediately. I've never, ever waited to test a siliconed drain. They won't dry in 24 hours - probably takes many, many months except for that thin line at the surface, since air can't get to the rest of it. It does eventually cure though - I've pulled enough old ones apart for renovations and changes to know.

I still use putty on most lav pop-ups, but if the fit of the supplied (or not) rubber gasket on a kitchen sink strainer or garb doesn't suit me it gets chucked and they always get siliconed. I've seen too many puttied strainers and garbs (mostly garbs) leak. And I do not get leaks, ever, thank you very much. 

I've never had a kitchen strainer or garb come loose. Some of the plastic strainers Kindred is shipping are making me mighty nervous lately though. They run out of thread before they're tight enough to suit me. No leaks so far though (knock wood).

For the guys heating siliconed drains to get them out, you don't need to do that. Just push up and sideways hard. Get that silicone ripping at one spot and the rest just tears out. It won't wreck the stainless sink unless you're pushing WAY too hard. If it looks like it's going to wrinkle just back off a bit, but keep the pressure on - it'll give. I've pulled some extremely well stuck strainers that way.


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## futz

plumb nutz said:


> So that silicone you use, is it food grade?
> I mean, homeowner, probably not soaking food in prep sinks, but restaurants...
> Just wondering...


Good quality *clear* silicone is very safe. Many years ago we used to build aquariums with the stuff. Those tropical fish are very sensitive to chemicals leaching into the water. Never had any die from silicone. Colored silicone, on the other hand... :no:


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## MAC

I have been using this putty, stainless and it stays flexible.

*Sta Put  Ultra® 







Made in the USA *
A unique, professional grade * non staining* plumber’s putty that is safe for most types of plumbing fixtures and surfaces. Unlike all other plumber’s putty * Sta Put  Ultra* is * oil-free* and can be used without pre-treatment. This includes natural, porous surfaces such as stone, marble, granite, plastics, rubber, and fiberglass, as well as grout and on manufactured sinks, shower bases, countertops, and other surfaces. Molds easily, remains permanently soft, malleable, and flexible. * Sta Put  Ultra* does not melt, rot, crumble, dry out, or shrink. Easy to clean-up. Does not leave a greasy residue on hands or surfaces. Meets or exceeds Federal Specification A-A-3110 (formerly TT-P-1536A).
U.S. and foreign patent pending. 
*OSHA MSDS* *ANSI MSDS* *SPEC SHEET* MSDS #108 MSDS #339+ Spec Sheet


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## plumber666

Never used silicone OR putty on basket strainers. Don't remember ever having a call back. Are you guys not reading the instructions??


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## whitey

I've probably put in hundreds of them never having one come loose, however I use putty. I don't know any other plumber that would use any kind of caulk, especially silicone. Basket strainers, even the more expensive ones won't last forever. It's best to use putty incase u are the next to work on it. Although if the sink is made out of anything besides some kind of metal, be sure to read up on what u should use as corean (spelling???) will stain from th le oil in the putty, silicone/latex caulking would be the product to use in most cases like that.


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## easttexasplumb

****** said:


> I've probably put in hundreds of them never having one come loose, however I use putty. I don't know any other plumber that would use any kind of caulk, especially silicone. Basket strainers, even the more expensive ones won't last forever. It's best to use putty incase u are the next to work on it. Although if the sink is made out of anything besides some kind of metal, be sure to read up on what u should use as corean (spelling???) will stain from th le oil in the putty, silicone/latex caulking would be the product to use in most cases like that.


 
One little non manly swing of a hammer will release a siliconed basket strainer.


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## PlumberJake

****** said:


> I've probably put in hundreds of them never having one come loose, however I use putty. I don't know any other plumber that would use any kind of caulk, especially silicone. Basket strainers, even the more expensive ones won't last forever. It's best to use putty incase u are the next to work on it. Although if the sink is made out of anything besides some kind of metal, be sure to read up on what u should use as corean (spelling???) will stain from th le oil in the putty, silicone/latex caulking would be the product to use in most cases like that.


You shouldn't use latex caulk on drains as it shrinks over time. I can't tell you how many drains I've had to repair because some people don't seem to understand this. 

As far as the putty vs silicone, I use whatever is best for the situation. If I have plenty of room to get the drain tight I use putty, if it's a tight spot I use silicone. After reading this thread I am willing to give silicone a little more of the workload. I have always been nervous about testing the drain immediately after when installed with silicone.


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## pauliplumber

plumber666 said:


> Never used silicone OR putty on basket strainers. Don't remember ever having a call back. Are you guys not reading the instructions??


 
Say What??


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## RealLivePlumber

I'll throw in my .02


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## GREENPLUM

my .02










nice clean waterproof install, no moldy black putty chunks


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## RealLivePlumber

How do you seal this faucet. Not for new out of the box, but for 3 years from now when the packings are dripping when the faucet is running?

Pack the entire escutchion with putty. 

Or a whole tube of silicone. Just tell the chef not to use the sink for a month so the silicone can cure. And, dont worry about that smell............:blink:


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## GREENPLUM

why not fix the faucet instead of packin it with gobs and gobs of putty?

100% Silicone is instanty waterproof, no waiting like you describe. The smell will only last a few hours. Silicone is a better choice than putty.

I would just put a bead of silicone around the edge, clean it up and get paid.


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## U666A

On my way over to grandma's house... Went to drain her kitchen sink and the strainer disintegrated in her hands, emptying the sink into the cupboard below... Putty or silicone? Any takers?

I will update you guys later...

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


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## RealLivePlumber

U.A.til.I.die said:


> On my way over to grandma's house... Went to drain her kitchen sink and the strainer disintegrated in her hands, emptying the sink into the cupboard below... Putty or silicone? Any takers?
> 
> I will update you guys later...
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


 
If it' s a stainless steel sink, get a stainless steel basket strainer, and tig weld that mudda fugga in there.:thumbsup:


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## U666A

RealLivePlumber said:


> If it' s a stainless steel sink, get a stainless steel basket strainer, and tig weld that mudda fugga in there.:thumbsup:


I don't have any sharp tungsten... But I got her!!!

Round here, strainers come with a rubber gasket... No need for putty OR silicone IMHO... no?

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


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## PeckPlumbing

Dun' Right said:


> Just another reason I use silicone.


I agree! Up until a couple years ago I used putty, now I use silicone 90% of the time! Especially on stainless commercial sinks...

Not only does it make a water tight seal, but also acts as an adhesive in case the drain gets bumped with a mop bucket or whatever :yes:


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## Roscoe

Silicone them in they won't come loose


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## Marlin

RealLivePlumber said:


> If it' s a stainless steel sink, get a stainless steel basket strainer, and tig weld that mudda fugga in there.:thumbsup:


Be careful what you wish for. We had a commercial kitchen where the Franklin drains had come loose. So the maintenance guy instead of tightening them or calling a plumber welded them in about 10 sinks the kitchen had to keep them from moving. Those were fun to work on.


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## Tommy plumber

U666A said:


> I don't have any sharp tungsten... But I got her!!!
> 
> Round here, strainers come with a rubber gasket... No need for putty OR silicone IMHO... no?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


 



That's a good one. Like when I saw water coming from below a food waste grinder. I assumed the disposal had rusted through, so I sell cust. a new pricey one. Get him to sign the invoice and I get to work. After taking the old basket strainer out, I find out exactly why old one leaked; it had the paper gasket under the basket strainer instead of putty....:laughing:


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