# Show your work



## Debo22

It’s been a little slow but people can’t have water coming through the ceiling. This galvanized pipe sprung a leak so I opened the ceiling where the water was coming out. It turns out the leak was 6’ away. I tried cutting the bad section out to replace it but the threads broke in the tee when I tried to unthread it. I had to open another hole in the shower to re-do it.


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## Debo22

Here’s the repair, post some of yours.


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## skoronesa

Debo22 said:


> Here’s the repair, post some of yours.







Look at all the nice lipstick on that pig! lolz. When was that house built? 60's? Some of these other guys can't even fathom a house piped in all galv. I see it around me all the time. It's "FUN"! You don't have a tool to remove the broken off threads? I mean, I know you'd rather not crank weird on that galv and make something leak further down but it's worth a shot.




I have a whole bag of special tools like internal wrenches, straight and spiral extractors, couple of pipe taps. I call it my "Oh Schit Bag". Because you always need it when you say Oh Schit!!!!








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## MACPLUMB777

Looks like they are ready for a full Repipe ! :biggrin:

Skoronesa; Looks like a good old schit bag
when I had my company I had them all the way up to 21/2"
Extractors and Taps


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## skoronesa

MACPLUMB777 said:


> Looks like they are ready for a full Repipe ! :biggrin:
> 
> Skoronesa; Looks like a good old schit bag
> when I had my company I had them all the way up to 21/2"
> Extractors and Taps





I guess everything is bigger in texas! My tap set only goes to 1-1/2".








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## MACPLUMB777

Mine was in L.A. CA. where I had a shop, I did a lot of Commercial
water heater and boiler storage tank work, never knew when you might need 
to extract a bad nipple and retap, also were great for clean outs to
clean up the threads :biggrin:


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## skoronesa

MACPLUMB777 said:


> Mine was in L.A. CA. where I had a shop, I did a lot of Commercial
> water heater and boiler storage tank work, never knew when you might need
> to extract a bad nipple and retap, also were great for clean outs to
> clean up the threads :biggrin:



I would love a 3-1/2" tap. Sometimes I cut a little too deep when getting out brass plugs. Usually packing some strips of teflon tap in with a thin screwdriver works. Also a good reason not to make your cuts in the bottom hemisphere of the plug.








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## goeswiththeflow

I hate chasing those running leaks. I had one young guy with his first house who was so horrified about the thought of cutting open the ceiling, possibly in multiple locations, that he was paralized with fear and wouldn't let me do it. He was convinced that there was some magic tool some kind of xray or something that I wasn't familiar with that the next guy he called would have and pinpoint the leak with the wave of a wand.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

I had a leak in a new house I did, water coming through the ceiling, but I knew NO pipes were in the area, so I open the ceiling and lots of water coming down..it ended up coming from a heat line 25ft away, some fking carpenter nicked the edge of the pipe with a sawsall and the slit was like a garden hose sprayer and it sprayed across the attic and down through the ceiling...
some water leaks are a PITA to trace..


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## chonkie

Had that happen on a new house, and I knew there was no plumbing above the tub/shower. Come to find out it was the roof leaking and running down the rafters and down the joists to above where the tub was. Kept telling the gc that there is nothing above the tub that could leak, not even the possibility of it being the vent through the roof penetration, because we tied it in to the toilet vent in the attic over 10' away, and even the vent pipe from the tub dwv didn't cross over the tub.


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## Tango

goeswiththeflow said:


> I hate chasing those running leaks. I had one young guy with his first house who was so horrified about the thought of cutting open the ceiling, possibly in multiple locations, that he was paralized with fear and wouldn't let me do it. He was convinced that there was some magic tool some kind of xray or something that I wasn't familiar with that the next guy he called would have and pinpoint the leak with the wave of a wand.


I get all the time from people who think you can magically replace a tub/shower faucet without cutting the wall. I bet they call another plumber who will do that because I never hear from them again. :vs_worry:

I'm thinking I'm not going to say anything until I'm in their house? or do you guys say on the phone it requires a hole in the wall?


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## ShtRnsdownhill

Tango said:


> I get all the time from people who think you can magically replace a tub/shower faucet without cutting the wall. I bet they call another plumber who will do that because I never hear from them again. :vs_worry:
> 
> I'm thinking I'm not going to say anything until I'm in their house? or do you guys say on the phone it requires a hole in the wall?





I tell everyone unless I know the house.." I have to come take a look as every house is different".....if they dont like that answer its the only one they get on the phone...that also gives a push for me to get into the house and then give the sales pitch if its something I want todo...
the most important thing is getting in the house..then its up to your salesmanship skills to close the deal..


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## Tango

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> I tell everyone unless I know the house.." I have to come take a look as every house is different".....if they dont like that answer its the only one they get on the phone...that also gives a push for me to get into the house and then give the sales pitch if its something I want todo...
> the most important thing is getting in the house..then its up to your salesmanship skills to close the deal..



Did you get those a lot? How the heck do you replace a tub/shower faucet without cutting the wall???

I'm not sure I want to try that for this particular type of job, they'll say I could of mentioned it on the phone and decline the job and will refuse to pay the service call.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

Tango said:


> Did you get those a lot? How the heck do you replace a tub/shower faucet without cutting the wall???
> 
> I'm not sure I want to try that for this particular type of job, they'll say I could of mentioned it on the phone and decline the job and will refuse to pay the service call.


many older houses had the plumbing wall back to a closet with a removable panel behind the tub or shower, or opening a wall in a closet doesnt disturb the tile..and many need the tile opened..


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## Tango

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> many older houses had the plumbing wall back to a closet with a removable panel behind the tub or shower, or opening a wall in a closet doesnt disturb the tile..and many need the tile opened..


Yeah but all of them who changed their mind or called someone else didn't want a hole cut in the drywall and then they thought I would be doing that for 30$(The price is my guess).


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## Alan

Tango said:


> Did you get those a lot? How the heck do you replace a tub/shower faucet without cutting the wall???


I've had to do it once, and it wasn't very much fun or very fast at all. I even did it without enlarging the original hole. 

The alternative was pulling a piece of granite off the other side of the wall. These people had granite everywhere even the shower walls were solid granite.


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## skoronesa

Alan said:


> I've had to do it once, and it wasn't very much fun or very fast at all. I even did it without enlarging the original hole.
> 
> The alternative was pulling a piece of granite off the other side of the wall. These people had granite everywhere even the shower walls were solid granite.





I have changed dropped eared elbows for shower arms through the escutcheon hole.


But the idea of changing a TUB FAUCET body/bodies without cutting the wall is pure fiction. He's NOT TALKING ABOUT A SHOWER VALVE.







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## MACPLUMB777

If you change out a MOEN you can get a stainless steel repair plate to
go around it, you can also get what are called SMITTY repair plates 
for both single handle valves, and two, or three handles :biggrin:

I have used these many times over the years ! :biggrin:


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## Tango

MACPLUMB777 said:


> If you change out a MOEN you can get a stainless steel repair plate to
> go around it, you can also get what are called SMITTY repair plates
> for both single handle valves, and two, or three handles :biggrin:
> 
> I have used these many times over the years ! :biggrin:


Problem with them is that the tub spout and valve are 98% always too close together and that plate overlaps the spout.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

Tango said:


> Problem with them is that the tub spout and valve are 98% always too close together and that plate overlaps the spout.



thats why I do my own tile work for shower body replacement..


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## Alan

MACPLUMB777 said:


> If you change out a MOEN you can get a stainless steel repair plate to
> go around it, you can also get what are called SMITTY repair plates
> for both single handle valves, and two, or three handles :biggrin:
> 
> I have used these many times over the years ! :biggrin:


Those Smitty plates are ugly. 

The new ones that Moen has come out with completely replace the round cover plate in the trim kit so you don't have to have a round plate on top of an oval plate. They are much nicer to look at.


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## Debo22

Installing a double clean out tomorrow, or as the Canadians call it a banana clean out. As us two 48 year old white guys are digging it out some guy was walking by and could see our pain. He offered up some advice, “why don’t you get some ******** to dig that hole for you guys?” It’s nice to see racism is still alive and well.


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## skoronesa

Debo22 said:


> ......He offered up some advice, “why don’t you get some ******** to dig that hole for you guys?” It’s nice to see racism is still alive and well.





And clearly still stupid. Wet backs come from cuba, last I checked you're in california not florida! :vs_laugh:

You guys have cholos right? And *******!









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## skoronesa

@Debo22



Dude, the movie "A million to juan" is great.






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## Debo22

skoronesa said:


> And clearly still stupid. Wet backs come from cuba, last I checked you're in california not florida! :vs_laugh:
> 
> You guys have cholos right? And *******!
> 
> 
> Born In East L.A. (Cheech And Chong) [HD] - YouTube
> 
> 
> 
> .


They call them wet backs here from crossing the Rio Grande


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## skoronesa

Debo22 said:


> They call them wet backs here from crossing the Rio Grande





That's still stupid since most illegal immigration into california comes through checkpoints on dry land.








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## Debo22

skoronesa said:


> And clearly still stupid. Wet backs come from cuba, last I checked you're in california not florida! :vs_laugh:
> 
> You guys have cholos right? And *******!
> 
> 
> Born In East L.A. (Cheech And Chong) [HD] - YouTube
> 
> 
> 
> .


In that video the first thing the immigration officer calls them is “mojados” which means wet


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## skoronesa

Debo22 said:


> In that video the first thing the immigration officer calls them is “mojados” which means wet





Yeah, I caught that, I know what cuidado piso mojado means.


Still stupid.




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## SchmitzPlumbing

hand digging is called using the mexican backhoe or **** spoon.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

Debo22 said:


> They call them wet backs here from crossing the Rio Grande



they were going to hold the olympics in mexico, but any mexican that could run, jump or swim are already in the USA.........................:vs_laugh:


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## Debo22

Here’s the underground finished project. Had to offset the risers with 22 1/2”s to get them in the planter. Time to backfill.


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## skoronesa

Debo22 said:


> Here’s the underground finished project. Had to offset the risers with 22 1/2”s to get them in the planter. Time to backfill.





Why would you bury abs? That's legal? Did you backfill with sand or just the spoils?




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## Debo22

skoronesa said:


> Why would you bury abs? That's legal? Did you backfill with sand or just the spoils?
> 
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First sand around the pipe then all the dirt goes back in. Yes, ABS underground. We don’t use PVC for drains here.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

Debo22 said:


> First sand around the pipe then all the dirt goes back in. Yes, ABS underground. We don’t use PVC for drains here.



that musta been a pita working in that little hole...unless you hung your helper by the ankles face down to work....:vs_laugh:


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## Debo22

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> that musta been a pita working in that little hole...unless you hung your helper by the ankles face down to work....:vs_laugh:


He’s bigger than me, we took turns digging as it got deeper. Had to be careful because Digalert painted red right through the middle of the trench indicating electrical. I guess they mixed up electrical and the copper water line running across.


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## skoronesa

Debo22 said:


> He’s bigger than me, we took turns digging as it got deeper. Had to be careful because Digalert painted red right through the middle of the trench indicating electrical. I guess they mixed up electrical and the copper water line running across.







Yeah, I do all the tracking at our shop. Ask me how overjoyed I am that plumbing is used as a ground......:vs_mad:






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## ironandfire

Recently got a set of 1/2-13 N. C. for the 811a.


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## skoronesa

ironandfire said:


> Recently got a set of 1/2-13 N. C. for the 811a.





They meant plumbing work, good job though. Should post it in the off topic/community thread.


For what it's worth, fine thread taps and dies are easier to use/harder to break since they remove less material and they make stronger threaded connections. I usually use coarse thread stuff but that's because I get most of it for free. In a case like this where you're probably buying the rod anyway pick up some fine thread nuts and make things easier for yourself.



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## ironandfire

A little somthin' I did back in 13. 6" L at local college in Utah. Welded nozzle for a flow meter.


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## ShtRnsdownhill

ironandfire said:


> A little somthin' I did back in 13. 6" L at local college in Utah. Welded nozzle for a flow meter.


tig welded??


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## skoronesa

ironandfire said:


> A little somthin' I did back in 13. 6" L at local college in Utah. Welded nozzle for a flow meter.






Now that's some really cool schit!!!!




I would love to see the preheating torch.








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## ironandfire

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> tig welded??


 Yep


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## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> Now that's some really cool schit!!!!
> 
> 
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> 
> I would love to see the preheating torch.
> 
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your clueless again..research tig welding...


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## ShtRnsdownhill

ironandfire said:


> Yep


did you use copper rods or just some #14 electrical wire?


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> your clueless again..research tig welding...





Clueless about what? You never preheat your larger pieces before welding/soldering/brazing? You're really itching for a fight today eh? Here's a snippet from just one manufacturer on how to use their filler rod when tig welding copper, brass, or bronze.

Why is it so clueless to think he would have a preheating torch for 6" copper?



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## ironandfire

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> did you use copper rods or just some #14 electrical wire?


 originally #12 but went with deoxidized copper


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## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> Clueless about what? You never preheat your larger pieces before welding/soldering/brazing? You're really itching for a fight today eh? Here's a snippet from just one manufacturer on how to use their filler rod when tig welding copper, brass, or bronze.
> 
> Why is it so clueless to think he would have a preheating torch for 6" copper?
> 
> 
> 
> .


 you preheat large mass( thick material inches thick) that copper pipe is what 1/4 thick at the most?? you dont have to preheat welding thin stuff like that...


do you even weld? lets start there...
welding is nothing like brazing or soldering with a flame torch..


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> you preheat large mass( thick material inches thick) that copper pipe is what 1/4 thick at the most?? you dont have to preheat welding thin stuff like that...
> 
> 
> do you even weld? lets start there...
> welding is nothing like brazing or soldering with a flame torch..





I don't see how you can assert any use of a preheat torch makes me clueless?



We have a guy we sub out any fancy welding to and on the few commercial jobs we have needed something like this he's just had his helper use a big torch to preheat anything above 3". Personally I think the fancy wrap on torches you don't need to hold are nice.



Copper pipe is an extremely good heat/electrical conductor and this pipe will easily conduct any electricity you pump through better than the wire running to your tig torch, that's why the extra heat is handy. Have you never seen the nice wrap around acetylene torch heads with several tips for preheating large pipe? We have several at them shop and use them 4" and larger copper. Usually we just use them on 4" copper headers for bigger residential boilers.



And yes, I have welded, stick and flux core mig. We do have a gas mig at the shop but I let the guy at the shop do that welding for me when it's needed, he kind of sees it as his machine.








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## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> I don't see how you can assert any use of a preheat torch makes me clueless?
> 
> 
> 
> We have a guy we sub out any fancy welding to and on the few commercial jobs we have needed something like this he's just had his helper use a big torch to preheat anything above 3". Personally I think the fancy wrap on torches you don't need to hold are nice.
> 
> 
> 
> Copper pipe is an extremely good heat/electrical conductor and this pipe will easily conduct any electricity you pump through better than the wire running to your tig torch, that's why the extra heat is handy. Have you never seen the nice wrap around acetylene torch heads with several tips for preheating large pipe? We have several at them shop and use them 4" and larger copper. Usually we just use them on 4" copper headers for bigger residential boilers.
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, I have welded, stick and flux core mig. We do have a gas mig at the shop but I let the guy at the shop do that welding for me when it's needed, he kind of sees it as his machine.
> 
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clueless..leave the welding talk to someone that knows..you dont..but good try..


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> clueless..leave the welding talk to someone that knows..you dont..but good try..





I would love to see pictures of your tig welded copper. Why don't you ask our new recruit who posted it if he used a secondary heat source?








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## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> I would love to see pictures of your tig welded copper. Why don't you ask our new recruit who posted it if he used a secondary heat source?
> 
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 see if he responds....so far I have not had to tig any copper, just stainless steel, regular steel, cast iron and aluminum....now if your tigging an aluminum manifold for a chevy v8 that is a big heat sink and thick material , that should get a little preheat... the same for cast iron depending on how you weld it, preheat and maintaining heat with a slow cool down is more to prevent cracking...


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> see if he responds....so far I have not had to tig any copper, just stainless steel, regular steel, cast iron and aluminum....now if your tigging an aluminum manifold for a chevy v8 that is a big heat sink and thick material , that should get a little preheat... the same for cast iron depending on how you weld it, preheat and maintaining heat with a slow cool down is more to prevent cracking...





Yeah, big heat sink. Heat sinking(dissipating) is more than just size and thickness. Every metal transfers heat at different rates, copper being better than aluminum at this.


I am not saying a preheat for a 6" pipe is absolutely necesary, I was just saying that it helps speed up the process and I figured he had used a preheat torch. *My issue with you was that you accused me of being clueless on the basis that a preheat torch would never be used when that's just not true.* It may not be absolutely needed, especially with a large water cooled torch, but it damn sure helps especially if you have a small, air cooled torch.




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## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> Yeah, big heat sink. Heat sinking(dissipating) is more than just size and thickness. Every metal transfers heat at different rates, copper being better than aluminum at this.
> 
> 
> I am not saying a preheat for a 6" pipe is absolutely necesary, I was just saying that it helps speed up the process and I figured he had used a preheat torch. *My issue with you was that you accused me of being clueless on the basis that a preheat torch would never be used when that's just not true.* It may not be absolutely needed, especially with a large water cooled torch, but it damn sure helps especially if you have a small, air cooled torch.
> 
> 
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> 
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there you go again, I didnt say " NEVER"...please cut and paste where I said NEVER...


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> there you go again, I didnt say " NEVER"...please cut and paste where I said NEVER...



Ok, you _implied_ that it would never make sense to use a preheat torch on 6" for this particular fitting. Unless you can explain what other meaning "clueless" would have had in relation to me saying he used a preheat torch.


That's what started this whole thing. You called me clueless because I figured he used a preheat torch and you thought it wasn't ever needed for this.




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## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> Ok, you _implied_ that it would never make sense to use a preheat torch on 6" for this particular fitting. Unless you can explain what other meaning "clueless" would have had in relation to me saying he used a preheat torch.
> 
> 
> That's what started this whole thing. You called me clueless because I figured he used a preheat torch and you thought it wasn't ever needed for this.
> 
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 LMFAO..you keep twisting what is said to make it sound to what YOU want to hear...nothing implied....:vs_laugh:


here is my statement..
you preheat large mass( thick material inches thick) that copper pipe is what 1/4 thick at the most?? you dont have to preheat welding thin stuff like that...




if you can read and are literate..you would understand that dont have to is the same as sometimes....so you dont have to wear a rain coat...what you read or comprehended was....you never wear a rain coat.....BIG difference in statements..






maybe you get this..
you tell a customer, you dont have to flush the piss down..so that would be an option of choice..


or you tell them..you never flush the piss down...that is an absolute that no other action could be taken..
sorry you lose this one bro..you won a few but you lost this one..


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> LMFAO..you keep twisting what is said to make it sound to what YOU want to hear...nothing implied....





I am not twisting anything, I would like you to explain exactly *what you meant when you said clueless* after I mentioned the preheat torch.




I don't need you to explain anything other than that. Otherwise I am chalking this up to you being as sundried as a piece of roadkill.








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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> ......you won a few but you lost this one..





Oh really? Which ones?








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## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> Oh really? Which ones?
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ok maybe 1 it was the wire one, but I didnt read it yet so ill give it to you for now...


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## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> I am not twisting anything, I would like you to explain exactly *what you meant when you said clueless* after I mentioned the preheat torch.
> 
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> I don't need you to explain anything other than that. Otherwise I am chalking this up to you being as sundried as a piece of roadkill.
> 
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the way you said it made no sense....


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> the way you said it made no sense....





The way I said what?


I like those fancy torches that he _*may *_have used like we do and I wanted to see it.



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## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> The way I said what?
> 
> 
> I like those fancy torches that he _*may *_have used like we do and I wanted to see it.
> 
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> 
> .


well wanting is different than needing....:vs_laugh::vs_laugh:


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> well wanting is different than needing....





I am chalking this up as a win for me on the technicality that you can't comprehend the totality of the english language. :vs_laugh:






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## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> I am chalking this up as a win for me on the technicality that you can't comprehend the totality of the english language. :vs_laugh:
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yu shood sea hows i spel....reel gode..


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## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> yu shood sea hows i spel....reel gode..





We got this one guy who is real particular. When he puts in pvc stub outs that may need to be swapped for street trap adapters he writes "Not glued" on the stub because sometimes between paint and just being jammed in you might not realize it isn't glued.


So when I work with him I write variations on "Nawt glood" or "Nought Glewd". He goes back and turns them over and rewrites it so it doesn't look like we're inbreds lolz


Occasionally I will do one and he doesn't catch it and I giggle like a school girl when the gc or home owner sees it :laugh:




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## Debo22

Copper to galvanized leaker. My repair design but the apprentice did the soldering.


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## GAN

@Debo22, is that a hose bid without backflow protection??????


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## Debo22

GAN said:


> @Debo22, is that a hose bid without backflow protection??????


Yes, no one uses vacuum breakers here unless a pesky inspector calls you on it :wink:. When I was learning the trade in the 90’s my master would only put those on in the backyard if they had a pool. So I would say 95% of hose bibs don’t have them


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## Debo22

Bathroom stoppage, had to poke a hole with the small cable in the 1 1/2” clean out. I couldn’t get the camera through to inspect it.


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## Debo22

I ended up putting in a new 3” clean out to properly snake it and camera it. I pushed this toilet seat bolt out to sewer.


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## Debo22

...


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## Debo22

Kitchen sink drain replacement. Added an exterior clean out and rough patched the hole with a piece of drywall.


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## Nazareth

From single vanity to his/hers


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## Tango

Nazareth said:


> From single vanity to his/hers


Those are funky tees and 90s! We don't have those around here. What's that M12 tool on the right? An oscillator??


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## skoronesa

Nazareth said:


> From single vanity to his/hers


How do you plan on snaking the long sweep of that combi tee?


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## Nazareth

M12 cut off tool. I love mine. Use it every day. Buy one


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## Nazareth

Telekenesis

I totally get what you're saying. My issue is that I didn't put my run low enough to throw in a clean out. Already kicked myself on that. I tried to do a double wye with street 45s, but then the rough in would be too high for the traps


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## skoronesa

Nazareth said:


> Telekenesis
> 
> I totally get what you're saying. My issue is that I didn't put my run low enough to throw in a clean out. Already kicked myself on that. I tried to do a double wye with street 45s, but then the rough in would be too high for the traps


If you did a double wye you'd be making an s-trap.

Is the vanity tall enough that the venting 90 above your double tee could have been a tee with a street 90 and c.o.?


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## Tango

skoronesa said:


> If you did a double wye you'd be making an s-trap.
> 
> Is the vanity tall enough that the venting 90 above your double tee could have been a tee with a street 90 and c.o.?



Vent has to be higher than the flood rim. In the picture it looks too low.


----------



## Nazareth

skoronesa said:


> If you did a double wye you'd be making an s-trap.
> 
> Is the vanity tall enough that the venting 90 above your double tee could have been a tee with a street 90 and c.o.?


Negative


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

Nazareth said:


> From single vanity to his/hers
> View attachment 126315
> 
> View attachment 126316


obviously this was NOT an inspected job....nor to code....will it work?..yes..and from what you had to work with probably better than what was there...as others stated the 1 bigger issue is the vent needs to tie into each other above the flood rim...of the sinks..


----------



## ken53

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> obviously this was NOT an inspected job....nor to code....will it work?..yes..and from what you had to work with probably better than what was there...as others stated the 1 bigger issue is the vent needs to tie into each other above the flood rim...of the sinks..


I agree with SHT the vent isn't right. The fernco connecting two ABS pipes won't fly either. I did inspections for a year or, so you would be cutting it out and doing it right.


----------



## Tango

ken53 said:


> I agree with SHT the vent isn't right. The fernco connecting two ABS pipes won't fly either. I did inspections for a year or, so you would be cutting it out and doing it right.


Ferncos are allowed here and many times the only way to make a repair otherwise you have to pull the pipe all the way to the roof. What about zip couplings to join copper and ABS, they aren't allowed??


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

Tango said:


> Ferncos are allowed here and many times the only way to make a repair otherwise you have to pull the pipe all the way to the roof. What about zip couplings to join copper and ABS, they aren't allowed??


no hub clamps or any clamp with a solid stainless band will do..the only place we can use ferncos is connecting the main line sewer to the cast coming out of the house and on the street end..but not anyplace in the house or building...


----------



## Tango

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> no hub clamps or any clamp with a solid stainless band will do..the only place we can use ferncos is connecting the main line sewer to the cast coming out of the house and on the street end..but not anyplace in the house or building...


Ferncos around here have been in houses for 30 years or more and they are holding up well.


----------



## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> no hub clamps or any clamp with a solid stainless band will do..the only place we can use ferncos is connecting the main line sewer to the cast coming out of the house and on the street end..but not anyplace in the house or building...


Every inspector is fine with them but actual "No-hub" connectors have only ever been officially approved for No-hub cast iron. A shielded coupling often called a mission coupling around here is approved for pvc/abs and hubbed cast iron above and below ground. Regular Ferncos are approved for underground use which is horrific and way worse than above ground. Up to code is not the same as best practice. I'll take a 4 band no-hub over a fernco or mission coupling any day when I can.


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

Tango said:


> Ferncos around here have been in houses for 30 years or more and they are holding up well.


I use them on non inspected jobs and dont have issue, but I can say over time they sag and could cause a problem, if you put extra pipe hangers it would help, but for all that, just use a banded clamp..


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> Every inspector is fine with them but actual "No-hub" connectors have only ever been officially approved for No-hub cast iron. A shielded coupling often called a mission coupling around here is approved for pvc/abs and hubbed cast iron above and below ground. Regular Ferncos are approved for underground use which is horrific and way worse than above ground. Up to code is not the same as best practice. I'll take a 4 band no-hub over a fernco or mission coupling any day when I can.
> View attachment 126331


why?


----------



## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> why?





ShtRnsdownhill said:


> ..........but I can say *over time they sag* and could cause a problem............


I couldn't have said it better myself


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> I couldn't have said it better myself


underground pipes are supported the whole way, so less chance of sagging at a joint..


----------



## sparky

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> underground pipes are supported the whole way, so less chance of sagging at a joint..


I have dug up many a sewer line where a fernco was sagged really bad,some so bad over half the flow was cut off,the ground must have settled


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

sparky said:


> I have dug up many a sewer line where a fernco was sagged really bad,some so bad over half the flow was cut off,the ground must have settled


let me requote...PROPERLY installed underground pipe is usually supported the entire length....if I dig past virgin soil and have to backfill a deep spot, ill compact it down before laying down any pipe...


----------



## sparky

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> let me requote...PROPERLY installed underground pipe is usually supported the entire length....if I dig past virgin soil and have to backfill a deep spot, ill compact it down before laying down any pipe...


Correct,when we put a ferno underground we tamp under and around it so that it can't move


----------



## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> let me requote...PROPERLY installed underground pipe is usually supported the entire length....if I dig past virgin soil and have to backfill a deep spot, ill compact it down before laying down any pipe...



That's fine until a root grows under it or someone drives over it. At 4' deep almost always fine. But at only 2' deep you can run into a lot more trouble whether you compact the soil or not.

An extra 10$ for a shielded coupling is some of the cheapest insurance you'll ever buy.


----------



## canuck92

4" press repair, midnight shift.


----------



## Debo22

canuck92 said:


> 4" press repair, midnight shift.


Speaking of Propress what’s up with the class action lawsuit? I just got this in the mail


----------



## canuck92

Somthing must of failed somwhere lol.
Iv always wonderd what would be the "next" kitec


----------



## skoronesa

Debo22 said:


> Speaking of Propress what’s up with the class action lawsuit? I just got this in the mail



Thanks for the heads up. I just sent that to one of my bosses. We buy a lot of propress fittings so 25% would be buku bucks.


----------



## skoronesa

canuck92 said:


> Somthing must of failed somwhere lol.
> Iv always wonderd what would be the "next" kitec



It's not a defective product issue.









Viega ProPress Copper Fittings Class Action Settlement


Viega has agreed to provide $15 million in benefits as part of a class action lawsuit settlement resolving claims that it violated antitrust laws to fix the price of Viega ProPress copper fittings.




topclassactions.com





It's a price fixing issue. Viega charged supply houses more for their product if the supply house also sold competing press fittings.


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

propress = skilless......and you wonder why trades go under..it doesnt take much skill to slide on a fitting and pull a trigger and let a machine do all the work...where as a solder joint requires some skill to make correctly, and a good solder joint will last a 100 years and usually outlasts the pipe..how long will propress joints last???? they have leakers already from seal issues...you can do all your testing in a lab, but you will never reproduce 20 ,30 or 40 years of installed life....so I figure in 20 years there will be alot of leaks in propress..in a soldered joint on 2 inch copper you have about 2 inches of a solder joint making the seal..what do you have in propress?? maybe an 1/8 inch rubber o-ring...I dont see that lasting anywhere close to a solder joint....
yeah propress looks nice..needs no flame and no fumes.....but at what cost to the customer down the line???


----------



## sparky

skoronesa said:


> That's fine until a root grows under it or someone drives over it. At 4' deep almost always fine. But at only 2' deep you can run into a lot more trouble whether you compact the soil or not.
> 
> An extra 10$ for a shielded coupling is some of the cheapest insurance you'll ever buy.


No dead wrong lolololo,I want that fernco to fail in a few yrs so I can go back and make the lick again lololololo


----------



## Dontbitenails

Not a big fan of progress. Mainly I don't want boxes of extra fittings laying around like the copper, pvc,cpvc,pex type A , pex type B , black iron fittings , 1" , 3/4",1/2" sizes in storage and in my van . 34 years ago we only had pvc drain fittings and copper water pipe fittings , now you need so many different type fittings. And you always need extras and the manufacturers bank on this . 
Also don't like that you can't take anything apart. It wrinkles the copper pipe and a o-ring is the seal. 
There is a place for everything and commercial larger jobs make economical sense with prevailing wages for the propress system. 
In my house properly soldered copper fittings is all you will see.


----------



## Tango

sparky said:


> No dead wrong lolololo,I want that fernco to fail in a few yrs so I can go back and make the lick again lololololo


It's exactly why new construction puts the worst and cheapest stuff in because they only have to guarantee 1 year. Works for me as I'm behind them changing those failing materials and bringing up stuff to code because they cut corners.


----------



## skoronesa

Dontbitenails said:


> ...........
> There is a place for everything and commercial larger jobs make economical sense with prevailing wages for the propress system.
> In my house properly soldered copper fittings is all you will see.


Normally us guys don't see prices. Recently I had to cut and cap two 3/4" lines off my water heater and one would have required draining the tank. I didn't want to lose all that hot water so I figured, eh, I'll just propress some caps on. I restocked them on my van and they cost me over 7$ each!!!! Needless to say those are the first and last propress fittings in this house.

I always knew they were kind of expensive, I was thinking the caps would be like 3-4$ each. *Compared with a 0.50$ sweat cap it ain't worth it on my own time.* Soldering is meditation for me. 

*On the job is different.* I will use propress when it makes sense. If I am draining everything anyway because of what I am changing then I will probably solder. If it's only a couple fittings and I don't want the extra time of properly draining then I will propress. *All of this doesn't matter if space is limited, I must be able to fix it in the future. *Often propress(and pex) relegates you to the diminishing pipe conundrum.* 

I'll never forget the house with a 3" propress manifold on the boiler. 16 tees that would need to be replaced, only 5 years old, because one was leaking and there wasn't enough nipple between the tees.*

I think the circulator unions needed to be replaced too.


----------



## skoronesa

My last job today was replacing the tree through a foundation for a total septic system replacement. The effluent was going to be pumped up to some fields, hence electrical lines were also stubbed in by the excavator. They did everything out side of the house and just stubbed in pipes for the electrician and I to deal with inside.

You guys run actual electrical conduit and not just use 1"poly pipe? His response was the* quote of the day;

"Yeah, we run conduit because it has to be inspected by jackazz."*

I laughed real good at that one, mostly because I know this guy and I am 100% certain he let the inspector knows how he feels about him. 🤣
*
One of the few times I wish I had a cross tee or wye. I would have put a 90 looking outside from the top of the tee/wye so I could add a cleanout in the sill.*


----------



## skoronesa

Held for over 30 years, could not have been inserted less. It's CTS!! I was very surprised.


----------



## skoronesa

Replaced a clay wasteline section. The co's were to be bruied so I made this nice marker  I also marked an X on the brick wall. They hit this when running a gas line below. It was then filled around with well packed dead sand.


----------



## skoronesa

Neat little splice with only two shrinks. Learned this from one of our other guys.


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> Held for over 30 years, could not have been inserted less. It's CTS!! I was very surprised.
> 
> View attachment 126417
> View attachment 126418
> View attachment 126419
> 
> [/QUOT





skoronesa said:


> My last job today was replacing the tree through a foundation for a total septic system replacement. The effluent was going to be pumped up to some fields, hence electrical lines were also stubbed in by the excavator. They did everything out side of the house and just stubbed in pipes for the electrician and I to deal with inside.
> 
> You guys run actual electrical conduit and not just use 1"poly pipe? His response was the* quote of the day;
> 
> "Yeah, we run conduit because it has to be inspected by jackazz."*
> 
> I laughed real good at that one, mostly because I know this guy and I am 100% certain he let the inspector knows how he feels about him. 🤣
> 
> *One of the few times I wish I had a cross tee or wye. I would have put a 90 looking outside from the top of the tee/wye so I could add a cleanout in the sill.*
> View attachment 126389


what is that ty on the flat behind the dryer???? looks like a 2 inch line


----------



## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> what is that ty on the flat behind the dryer???? looks like a 2 inch line


It's hard to see but the 2" line that drops into the 2" pvc tee transitions from abs to pvc right above the top of the standpipe for the washer discharge. The abs runs in front of the top of the standpipe. There is an offset before that kitchen line drops to the tee. You can probably see a street 45 going into the 90 which looks down into the pvc tee.

The washer discharge hose is black and is taped to the side of the standpipe. The weir of the washer trap is hidden by the dryer.


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> It's hard to see but the 2" line that drops into the 2" pvc tee transitions from abs to pvc right above the top of the standpipe for the washer discharge. The abs runs in front of the top of the standpipe. There is an offset before that kitchen line drops to the tee. You can probably see a street 45 going into the 90 which looks down into the pvc tee.
> 
> The washer discharge hose is black and is taped to the side of the standpipe. The weir of the washer trap is hidden by the dryer.


did you install it, the ty on its side? if so thats not code, it has to be a y with a 45 in it...


----------



## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> did you install it, the ty on its side? if so thats not code, it has to be a y with a 45 in it...
> 
> View attachment 126449


Yes, you're correct, that should have been a wye/45. I didn't have a wye.

I could have put that tee looking down into a 90 but then my washer standpipe would have to be shorter than 18".

The guy who looked at this only intended for me to connect to the existing 2" abs that was there, which also had a tee like that btw. I was only given a couple 2" 90s. I had a tee but not a wye on my van because I used it a couple days before and they didn't give me all of my restock because pvc is in short supply due to the hurricanes apparently. I had to repipe all that 2" because the excavator had to change where they came in the foundation. Originally they were going to directional bore through the foundation about a foot lower but kept hitting rocks.

This is the same reason that there is a 4" wye leaving the foundation instead of a 4" tee. All three local supply houses were out of 4" tees. Again, that wouldn't have been legal but it was what was ordered by someone who doesn't care and just ordered what was there in cast iron.


----------



## skoronesa

The "Home Inspector" didn't cite this. The galv tee was leaking profusely. The prospective homeowner took it upon themselves to don knee pads and go in the crawlspace the day after the inspector. This well tank is right by the entrance. The buyer, the real estate agent, and myself were all stunned the inspector missed it, especially the real estate agent who was there when the inspector went in the crawlspace.

The worst part was the control box was leaning against the tee and had just been getting sprayed profusely. How the breaker didn't trip or a fire didn't start is beyond me.

I've been going through my old pics and uploading the interesting stuff I don't remember posting before. if I repeat an old post I apologize.


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> Yes, you're correct, that should have been a wye/45. I didn't have a wye.
> 
> I could have put that tee looking down into a 90 but then my washer standpipe would have to be shorter than 18".
> 
> The guy who looked at this only intended for me to connect to the existing 2" abs that was there, which also had a tee like that btw. I was only given a couple 2" 90s. I had a tee but not a wye on my van because I used it a couple days before and they didn't give me all of my restock because pvc is in short supply due to the hurricanes apparently. I had to repipe all that 2" because the excavator had to change where they came in the foundation. Originally they were going to directional bore through the foundation about a foot lower but kept hitting rocks.
> 
> This is the same reason that there is a 4" wye leaving the foundation instead of a 4" tee. All three local supply houses were out of 4" tees. Again, that wouldn't have been legal but it was what was ordered by someone who doesn't care and just ordered what was there in cast iron.
> [/





skoronesa said:


> Yes, you're correct, that should have been a wye/45. I didn't have a wye.
> 
> I could have put that tee looking down into a 90 but then my washer standpipe would have to be shorter than 18".
> 
> The guy who looked at this only intended for me to connect to the existing 2" abs that was there, which also had a tee like that btw. I was only given a couple 2" 90s. I had a tee but not a wye on my van because I used it a couple days before and they didn't give me all of my restock because pvc is in short supply due to the hurricanes apparently. I had to repipe all that 2" because the excavator had to change where they came in the foundation. Originally they were going to directional bore through the foundation about a foot lower but kept hitting rocks.
> 
> This is the same reason that there is a 4" wye leaving the foundation instead of a 4" tee. All three local supply houses were out of 4" tees. Again, that wouldn't have been legal but it was what was ordered by someone who doesn't care and just ordered what was there in cast iron.


plus the pump discharge line should go directly into the 4 inch, now you are dumping water backwards into the sump with that ty.......


----------



## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> plus the pump discharge line should go directly into the 4 inch, now you are dumping water backwards into the sump with that ty.......


What sump? There's no sump pump.


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> What sump? There's no sump pump.


whats the 2 inch line coming up from behind the washer that goes into the backend of the TY??


----------



## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> whats the 2 inch line coming up from behind the washer that goes into the backend of the TY??



If you actually read what I posted before you would know.


----------



## skoronesa

Getting rid of the cast iron tree that the abs plumber left in 30 years ago and the excavation company also left in 5ish years ago. It kept clogging on them simply because of how rough it was. Also had no pitch. My picture doesn't show it well but I was able to add about a 1/2" of pitch. The two 3" abs lines are both 30'+ long.































My manager failed to mention the customer told him the hole started to collapse with some rain we had. I did that one this morning. Fun fun, wake up and dig out 20 gallons of mud in the freezing cold. As you can see the neighbor with the backhoe couldn't be bothered to put the spoils anywhere except right next to the hole so they could easily fall in again.


----------



## sparky

skoronesa said:


> Yes, you're correct, that should have been a wye/45. I didn't have a wye.
> 
> I could have put that tee looking down into a 90 but then my washer standpipe would have to be shorter than 18".
> 
> The guy who looked at this only intended for me to connect to the existing 2" abs that was there, which also had a tee like that btw. I was only given a couple 2" 90s. I had a tee but not a wye on my van because I used it a couple days before and they didn't give me all of my restock because pvc is in short supply due to the hurricanes apparently. I had to repipe all that 2" because the excavator had to change where they came in the foundation. Originally they were going to directional bore through the foundation about a foot lower but kept hitting rocks.
> 
> This is the same reason that there is a 4" wye leaving the foundation instead of a 4" tee. All three local supply houses were out of 4" tees. Again, that wouldn't have been legal but it was what was ordered by someone who doesn't care and just ordered what was there in cast iron.


That tee on its ack is just fine,nothin wrong with it at all


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> If you actually read what I posted before you would know.


what is the elbow to the left going to???


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

sparky said:


> That tee on its ack is just fine,nothin wrong with it at all


what code do you go by?


----------



## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> what is the elbow to the left going to???
> View attachment 126472



If you actually read what I posted before you would know.


----------



## Tango

sparky said:


> That tee on its ack is just fine,nothin wrong with it at all


The only time we can put a tee lying down is for vent purposes. Has to be rotated no less than 45 degrees.


----------



## sparky

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> what code do you go by?


Kentucky allows tees on their backs,hell if you do many undergrounds you would know that you can't always use a wye and 45 turned straight up on its back,it's to tall,your ditch would have to so much deeper just to get one fitting below the slab,you have to install tees on their backs or sides at 45 degrees,if you use wyes and 45s that sticks up what 20inches or more???way to tall for underground work


----------



## sparky

Tango said:


> The only time we can put a tee lying down is for vent purposes. Has to be rotated no less than 45 degrees.


I'm not saying laying on its side,that a Nono,the tee has to be turned straight up(on its back) or on its side on a 45


----------



## Plumbus

If the trench needs to be deeper to accommodate the taller fitting, so be it. You are only talking a few inches.


----------



## skoronesa

The leak was on the 1-1/2" lead going into the bottom of the drum trap. I could have soldered it shut but decided to just replace it  I cut the drum off and left the lid in place so they didn't have a hole in the floor. Unfortunately the tailpiece that was soldered to the lead was too short to reuse so I used some 1-1/4" L instead. I wasn't going to call back to the shop for that.

I had to shim the tub because the floor was so wonky the tub wouldn't completely drain out.


----------



## Tango

skoronesa said:


> The leak was on the 1-1/2" lead going into the bottom of the drum trap. I could have soldered it shut but decided to just replace it  I cut the drum off and left the lid in place so they didn't have a hole in the floor. Unfortunately the tailpiece that was soldered to the lead was too short to reuse so I used some 1-1/4" L instead. I wasn't going to call back to the shop for that.
> 
> I had to shim the tub because the floor was so wonky the tub wouldn't completely drain out.


Wow that's some serious old $hit! I'm surprised they paid, it would be a full day ordeal trying to get some pipe to fit in the chrome. Then I'd get the reply they'll call the duct tape guy.


----------



## skoronesa

Tango said:


> Wow that's some serious old $hit! I'm surprised they paid, it would be a full day ordeal trying to get some pipe to fit in the chrome. Then I'd get the reply they'll call the duct tape guy.


They were eating dinner when the child noticed the ceiling had developed a basketball sized balloon in the paint. The homeowner got a trashcan to pop it. Called one of our guys out on overtime to make sure it wasn't active. Manager came and punched a couple more holes to find the lead pipe leaking. Because the ceiling was sloped it looked like the toilet line was leaking which of course is a lead bend into cast iron. They had a carpenter open the whole ceiling as they are making an insurance claim. Unfortunately their insurance doesn't cover the plumbing repair, only what was water damaged, and of course there's a deductible.


----------



## Tango

skoronesa said:


> They were eating dinner when the child noticed the ceiling had developed a basketball sized balloon in the paint. The homeowner got a trashcan to pop it. Called one of our guys out on overtime to make sure it wasn't active. Manager came and punched a couple more holes to find the lead pipe leaking. Because the ceiling was sloped it looked like the toilet line was leaking which of course is a lead bend into cast iron. They had a carpenter open the whole ceiling as they are making an insurance claim. Unfortunately their insurance doesn't cover the plumbing repair, only what was water damaged, and of course there's a deductible.


Same here, insurance pays for damages not the plumber's bill. 

A problem with insurance they are very few now that will insure a plumbing company. That and the price hike. Insurance is mandatory to keep your license, I'm very lucky to have insurance at a reasonable price other wise there was only another who would insure for more than double than what I pay. One insurance told me in order to have insurance with them I had to be in business for 10 years, F-them.


----------



## sparky

Plumbus said:


> If the trench needs to be deeper to accommodate the taller fitting, so be it. You are only talking a few inches.


Depends on your tank or sewer tap lololololo that's what decides how deep or shallow you can go


----------



## Plumbus

"I had to shim the tub because the floor was so wonky the tub wouldn't completely drain out."
That cast line you tied into must be over 100. Must have been fun cutting. Was it thin on the bottom?

"Depends on your tank or sewer tap lololololo that's what decides how deep or shallow you can go"
That's our problem and why we get the big bucks. The code nor it's enforcers care.


----------



## sparky

skoronesa said:


> View attachment 126466
> View attachment 126471
> 
> 
> Getting rid of the cast iron tree that the abs plumber left in 30 years ago and the excavation company also left in 5ish years ago. It kept clogging on them simply because of how rough it was. Also had no pitch. My picture doesn't show it well but I was able to add about a 1/2" of pitch. The two 3" abs lines are both 30'+ long.
> 
> View attachment 126467
> View attachment 126468
> View attachment 126469
> View attachment 126470
> 
> 
> My manager failed to mention the customer told him the hole started to collapse with some rain we had. I did that one this morning. Fun fun, wake up and dig out 20 gallons of mud in the freezing cold. As you can see the neighbor with the backhoe couldn't be bothered to put the spoils anywhere except right next to the hole so they could easily fall in again.


In the pic with the hydrant,what is that black fitting or pipe that you used between the new brass and old galvanized pipe???doesn't look familier to me


----------



## skoronesa

Plumbus said:


> "I had to shim the tub because the floor was so wonky the tub wouldn't completely drain out."
> That cast line you tied into must be over 100. Must have been fun cutting. Was it thin on the bottom?
> ...............


It was easy to cut with the angle grinder. Only 2" cast. I cut 90% of the way through and used my beater in the seam to pry it apart and crack the remaining bit.

It was not thin at the bottom. Pre-war cast iron is quite good. Larger, longer pieces cool faster after casting and have more stress in them and a different grain structure. This means they will rust faster and when they do they will crack longways before they rust all the way through simply from the stress that was trapped in the pipe from it cooling so quickly. It gets thin enough that it rips itself apart.

Pre-war cast iron has a much higher silicon content, the stuff used to make glass. This is part of the reason it is so durable. They also let it cool more properly as opposed to the post-war wham bam thank you mam production needed to give those G.I.'s all those homes.

Most of the time when I find failed cast it's either pinholes or the top rots out from the continual condensation. The condensation is essentially distilled water which is corrosive. Occasionally I will see the bottom rot out but this is usually after the first 20" or 30' of piping, generally by the time it goes into the ground. Not sure why that is, I assume some bacterial process is making acid which eats the bottom of the pipe out.

Some of the coolest cast iron pipe/fittings I have ever seen is Dur-Iron. It has an 85% silicon content so it is mostly glass. it's used for laboratory waste piping, or was. They used asbestos instead of oakum. It's extremely heavy, and thicker than 4XH. I've never seen smaller than 2" dur-iron, I assume that's because of how thick it is. The inside diameter or 2" dur-iron is barely larger than regular 1-1/2". It looks like cast stainless steel.


----------



## skoronesa

sparky said:


> In the pic with the hydrant,what is that black fitting or pipe that you used between the new brass and old galvanized pipe???doesn't look familier to me


There's no galvanized fittings. That's a piece of 1" black polyethylene water piping attached to a 1" brass insert female tee. The run has a 3/4" male pex adapter with fostapex.

I said to the guy, that fostapex run looks new, the plumber didn't offer to change out the hydrant when it was dug up? He said he asked the plumber and was told if the hydrant worked don't bother. That was less than 2 months ago lolz. Some guys are too lazy, should have changed this hydrant then.


----------



## sparky

skoronesa said:


> There's no galvanized fittings. That's a piece of 1" black polyethylene water piping attached to a 1" brass insert female tee. The run has a 3/4" male pex adapter with fostapex.
> 
> I said to the guy, that fostapex run looks new, the plumber didn't offer to change out the hydrant when it was dug up? He said he asked the plumber and was told if the hydrant worked don't bother. That was less than 2 months ago lolz. Some guys are too lazy, should have changed this hydrant then.
> 
> View attachment 126483


Ok,gotcha,thanks just looked weird in the pic,thought it might be something new lololo


----------



## skoronesa

Forgot to upload this the other day. Basement company put sump pumps and vinyl down 10 years ago. Some jackwagon cut a 4" pvc saddle fitting in half longways so they could glue it onto the 6" cast iron. There's no pic of the saddle fitting because the maintenance guy absconded with it before I got back in the tunnel. They had drilled a 2-1/4" hole so a 1-1/2" toilet spud was perfect. It's rock solid. I screwed a cleanout onto the spud.

I thought about running 20' of 1-1/2" down the tunnel to a cut off 4" line but when I realized how well the spud fit I couldn't justify it. This was the old school main waste line. They ran a new line over head to a new septic system and now only use this one for the sump pumps, a couple floor drains, and a mop sink or two.


----------



## sparky

skoronesa said:


> Forgot to upload this the other day. Basement company put sump pumps and vinyl down 10 years ago. Some jackwagon cut a 4" pvc saddle fitting in half longways so they could glue it onto the 6" cast iron. There's no pic of the saddle fitting because the maintenance guy absconded with it before I got back in the tunnel. They had drilled a 2-1/4" hole so a 1-1/2" toilet spud was perfect. It's rock solid. I screwed a cleanout onto the spud.
> 
> I thought about running 20' of 1-1/2" down the tunnel to a cut off 4" line but when I realized how well the spud fit I couldn't justify it. This was the old school main waste line. They ran a new line over head to a new septic system and now only use this one for the sump pumps, a couple floor drains, and a mop sink or two.
> 
> View attachment 126486
> View attachment 126487
> View attachment 126488


That looks rather sexual,you are the hero lolololol


----------



## skoronesa

Leak where they were rubbing, also replaced soft copper and hooked hot/cold up to correct side. I caulked the penetrations so any other leaks wouldn't go into ceiling. 

Check out the sweet coal boiler. Single pipe steam system, open two valves and you could use the coal boiler instead of/with the oil boiler.































I wonder how many dingleberries have ripped the tops of drum traps off thinking they were cleanouts for the toilet line?


----------



## RichardBull

Sewer replacement. The owner wanted his grass removed and reinstalled. We accommodated him and he compensated us snd then was so pleased he took me and my wife to the yacht club for dinner and gave me the keys to his condo at the beach for a weekend as a bonus. Really nice guy,pleasure to work for.


----------



## RichardBull

I dumped all my galvanize fittings and now only use stainless......

Here’s a pic of a shipment I had just unboxed. I’m very happy with stainless and my customers lap it up like ice cream.......


----------



## RichardBull

Very old galvy pipe deteriorated inside a plaster wall. Historic home.


----------



## RichardBull

Cat bite.....this was 9 days post bite. You can see where the Dr outlined the redness and swelling with black marker. The redness and swelling reversed like a miracle overnight. This was the day I quit being scared that I might lose my freakin hand. Those bite marks are deep....the larger bite Mark was a tear and it needed stitches but the bite was too dirty to stitch up.


----------



## skoronesa

RichardBull said:


> ..................
> I dumped all my galvanize fittings and now only use stainless......
> 
> Here’s a pic of a shipment I had just unboxed. I’m very happy with stainless and my customers lap it up like ice cream.......


You know, I debated switching from brass to stainless, I'm sure the management wouldn't have any of it though. It's a darn shame because stainless is the same price or better and it's a superior material most of the time.

I do like the look of brass once it's aged though. Also our water doesn't really harm brass.


----------



## skoronesa

RichardBull said:


> Sewer replacement. The owner wanted his grass removed and reinstalled. We accommodated him and he compensated us snd then was so pleased he took me and my wife to the yacht club for dinner and gave me the keys to his condo at the beach for a weekend as a bonus. Really nice guy,pleasure to work for.


Quit blue-balling us and post the after pictures of the front yard! And pictures of the yacht's stewardess' front yard


----------



## RichardBull

same grass and same day we finished. A month later you couldn’t tell we had been there.


----------



## RichardBull

Here is a month later. You can barely see the top of the clean out.


----------



## RichardBull

Parking lot leak. A helper and myself dug this with shovels. We felt like it was the safest thing to do in the situation, we didn’t want to damage anything below. It was in the high 90’s that day with high humidity.


----------



## RichardBull

That’s thin wall pvc sprinkler pipe someone used for a building main, it’s 30 years old and starting to fail. It just gets cracks in it at every point the pipe is under a strain. This is from an uneven excavated ditch and the pipe elevation is going up and down.


----------



## sparky

skoronesa said:


> You know, I debated switching from brass to stainless, I'm sure the management wouldn't have any of it though. It's a darn shame because stainless is the same price or better and it's a superior material most of the time.
> 
> I do like the look of brass once it's aged though. Also our water doesn't really harm brass.


I tried going to stainless in place of brass never again,ever threaded fitting on stainless wanted to leak the threads are not cut deep enough, I went back to tried and true brass


----------



## skoronesa

sparky said:


> I tried going to stainless in place of brass never again,ever threaded fitting on stainless wanted to leak *the threads are not cut deep enough*, I went back to tried and true brass


You're saying it wasn't because it was stainless, just that you weren't buying quality stuff.

I haven't used much stainless but what I have used hasn't given me any issues and has all been well made.


----------



## Tango

sparky said:


> I tried going to stainless in place of brass never again,ever threaded fitting on stainless wanted to leak the threads are not cut deep enough, I went back to tried and true brass


Also depends of the moisture content in the ambient air and or location. In my home town back then it was super tough to install any stainless, it seized up so bad. at least 10% would have to be cut out and redone. This was in an industrial glue for particle board mill.


----------



## bawalter

skoronesa said:


> stainless is the same price or better and it's a superior material


I'm not trying to argue but I'll say that this is not necessarily true. There are different grades of stainless (303, 304, 316, etc) and the quality depends on where it was manufactured. Years ago when I first took over ordering materials I tried to save some money on some stainless rod we were machining. The stuff was from Korea and showed up with rust on some edges. There were several spots that a magnet had a little drag on it. Needles to say I returned it and I've been careful with the quality ever since.


----------



## RichardBull

bawalter said:


> I'm not trying to argue but I'll say that this is not necessarily true. There are different grades of stainless (303, 304, 316, etc) and the quality depends on where it was manufactured. Years ago when I first took over ordering materials I tried to save some money on some stainless rod we were machining. The stuff was from Korea and showed up with rust on some edges. There were several spots that a magnet had a little drag on it. Needles to say I returned it and I've been careful with the quality ever since.


I use 316L but some 304. It’s imported but it meets standards and the distributer has certificates on file. You are exactly correct, you have to be careful what you buy.


----------



## RichardBull

I buy my stainless from “ piping now “ out of New Orleans., I just order it online. If you buy a lot call them first snd negotiate an amount that would get you free shipping.


----------



## RichardBull

Pex crimper haul off eBay. 








Some of those I paid 35.00 for.


----------



## RichardBull

here is some on eBay if anyone needs.....









BOW PEX Outils Superpex 3/4" Crimping Crimp Tool 560748 15" Length Black Grip | eBay


BOW Pex Outils Superpex 3/4" Crimping Crimp Tool. Model Number: 560748. Black Grip. 15" Length. If your item is received in a different condition than stated (DOA, not working properly etc. • Freight, etc. ).



www.ebay.com


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

RichardBull said:


> View attachment 126926
> 
> Cat bite.....this was 9 days post bite. You can see where the Dr outlined the redness and swelling with black marker. The redness and swelling reversed like a miracle overnight. This was the day I quit being scared that I might lose my freakin hand. Those bite marks are deep....the larger bite Mark was a tear and it needed stitches but the bite was too dirty to stitch up.


you have to be careful, some of those puzzies out there are vicous and have teeth..and you have to watch out for cats too.....


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

RichardBull said:


> View attachment 126924
> 
> Very old galvy pipe deteriorated inside a plaster wall. Historic home.


Ive ripped out lots of rotted and split CI pipe..here in new york, there are lots of houses over 100+ years old...


----------



## OpenSights

RichardBull said:


> Pex crimper haul off eBay.
> View attachment 126952
> 
> Some of those I paid 35.00 for.


Good price, but I prefer Mill 3.


----------



## RichardBull

OpenSights said:


> Good price, but I prefer Mill 3.


I don’t blame you, the mil3 are great. This summer when the remodeling jobs start coming in I plan to buy a battery powered press tool. A small one that does 1/2”-1” jaws. Pex and propress jaws.


----------



## Dontbitenails

RichardBull said:


> View attachment 126934
> 
> Here is a month later. You can barely see the top of the clean out.


Looks nice, I used to make lawns look like that when the bosses would let me bid and run the jobs . It takes a lot of effort and persistence to make a lawn look that nice. Do you take a piece of 1/2 inch copper pipe and crimp one end and hook the other to a garden hose to "jet" the spoils down? At least thats how I did it. Thats how you get referrals.


----------



## RichardBull

Dontbitenails said:


> Looks nice, I used to make lawns look like that when the bosses would let me bid and run the jobs . It takes a lot of effort and persistence to make a lawn look that nice. Do you take a piece of 1/2 inch copper pipe and crimp one end and hook the other to a garden hose to "jet" the spoils down? At least thats how I did it. Thats how you get referrals.


I just used a hose end sprayer and about 2hrs later.....


----------



## Dontbitenails

RichardBull said:


> I just used a hose end sprayer and about 2hrs later.....


You can push the piece of pipe down to the bottom of the ditch after back fill . Turn on hose and you can watch the spoils sink. Fills from bottom up . Either way same result. Looks nice.


----------



## MACPLUMB777

RichardBull said:


> View attachment 126926
> 
> Cat bite.....this was 9 days post bite. You can see where the Dr outlined the redness and swelling with black marker. The redness and swelling reversed like a miracle overnight. This was the day I quit being scared that I might lose my freaking hand. Those bite marks are deep....the larger bite of Mark was a tear, and it needed stitches, but the bite was too dirty to stitch up.





RichardBull said:


> View attachment 126926
> 
> Cat bite.....this was 9 days post bite. You can see where the Dr outlined the redness and swelling with black marker. The redness and swelling reversed like a miracle overnight. This was the day I quit being scared that I might lose my freaking hand. Those bite marks are deep....the larger bite Mark was a tear, and it needed stitches, but the bite was too dirty to stitch up.


I never got bit or hurt by any cats on the jobs, but a couple of times got bit by customers' dogs, Something that I 
have inherited from my Father, was a love of animals, so most of the time on jobs they just came up and got 
petted and they were HAPPY !


----------



## RichardBull

This one had a leak.















This customer complained that the K-sink stunk al the time snd drained slow.


----------



## MACPLUMB777

HOW COULD YOU TELL THE WATER HEATER WAS LEAKING ?


----------



## RichardBull

MACPLUMB777 said:


> HOW COULD YOU TELL THE WATER HEATER WAS LEAKING ?


No hot water was their first clue...


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

RichardBull said:


> This one had a leak.
> View attachment 126975
> View attachment 126976
> 
> This customer complained that the K-sink stunk al the time snd drained slow.


thats just a defective jacket......spray on some rustoleum and its good to go...


----------



## RichardBull

Before and after


----------



## skoronesa

A couple years ago this bathroom was renovated. I pulled the fixtures and set the toilet after the new floor was down. I raised the drain tee and then set this new sink/faucet. Unfortunately they had me leave the uncut stops that some jagoff put on. Recently some other jackwagon hooked up a bottle filler AND made the trap leak. I fixed that and then added a hot spigot because the cleaner was having to bucket water down from the third floor to mop.

I would have liked to change the cold stop too, some day.... They wanted the bathroom to be pseudo-ADA. It didn't have to get inspected but they wanted ADA aspects incorporated such as a sink high enough for a wheel chair, 19" toilet, grab bars, etc.

Looking at the pictures now, I wish I had put a new trap on and rotated that 1/4" saddle fitting to the side/back.


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> A couple years ago this bathroom was renovated. I pulled the fixtures and set the toilet after the new floor was down. I raised the drain tee and then set this new sink/faucet. Unfortunately they had me leave the uncut stops that some jagoff put on. Recently some other jackwagon hooked up a bottle filler AND made the trap leak. I fixed that and then added a hot spigot because the cleaner was having to bucket water down from the third floor to mop.
> 
> I would have liked to change the cold stop too, some day.... They wanted the bathroom to be pseudo-ADA. It didn't have to get inspected but they wanted ADA aspects incorporated such as a sink high enough for a wheel chair, 19" toilet, grab bars, etc.
> 
> Looking at the pictures now, I wish I had put a new trap on and rotated that 1/4" saddle fitting to the side/back.
> 
> 
> View attachment 127223
> View attachment 127224
> View attachment 127225


hack job..tubular traps.(too thin of a material to drill through) are not legal in my area only LA type or p trap ......and why not put a tee on the cold water and put a real valve on..now the sink has to be shutoff if any leaks on the bottle filler...


----------



## RichardBull

That’s a mess....


----------



## skoronesa

RichardBull said:


> That’s a mess....


I can only do so much, usually just what they schedule. Everything has to be approved by someone who you can't just reach on the phone.

When I got there a trap washer was leaking so I fixed it and and added the hose spigot they wanted.

They just had a bunch of these bottle fillers added, they are foot pedal operated so no one has to touch anything with their hands and spread germs. They have UV and reverse osmosis built in. If you haven't already figured it out it's an office building full of neurotic ocd neat freaks.


----------



## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> hack job..tubular traps.(too thin of a material to drill through) are not legal in my area only LA type or p trap ......and why not put a tee on the cold water and put a real valve on..now the sink has to be shutoff if any leaks on the bottle filler...



It's a company selling bottle fillers and jug water fountains, do you really think they are plumbers? 

I've thought about trying to find stainless p-traps so they are harder to drill through, though they did drill through the stainless tail piece.


----------



## RichardBull

I installed that Watts hot water pump with the bypass heater thingy. 

Checked with customer later in the day and he said it’s working perfectly, instant warm water 60’ away from the heater.

Also installed his new 50 gal AO Smith electric with the smart control option and Leak detection.


----------



## skoronesa

Never been so glad before to see brass pipe. I did have to spend 30mins to chisel the end of the galv pipe threads out of the brass 90 though. It wasn't too bad.


----------



## skoronesa

I forgot to take pics of the utility sink I took out. They reused this old Am. Std. sink and a Krowne comm. faucet. Do you guys use the T&S nipple kits for these? I love them, so easy. I propressed the valves but soldered the rest because my manager shorted me on pp fittings and I had to solder the adapters anyway.


----------



## RichardBull

That sink drain looks like it’s falling the wrong way, flat at best.


----------



## skoronesa

RichardBull said:


> That sink drain looks like it’s falling the wrong way, flat at best.


It's just the camera angle. I assure you it's pitched properly, hence the hanger. You think I would put a hanger and not make sure it had pitch? The copper is sagging unfortunately


----------



## RichardBull

I’m looking 


skoronesa said:


> It's just the camera angle. I assure you it's pitched properly, hence the hanger. You think I would put a hanger and not make sure it had pitch? The copper is sagging unfortunately


I’m looking at the drain in relation to the block wall behind it. Assuming the block wall is straight, it looks like the drain is back falling.


----------



## skoronesa

RichardBull said:


> I’m looking
> 
> I’m looking at the drain in relation to the block wall behind it. Assuming the block wall is straight, it looks like the drain is back falling.


I see what you're saying but I know it has pitch. I checked it before screwing the ceiling plate down and I did that last.

I'm sure I'll go back to that old place for something and when I do, I will double check.


----------



## Tango

skoronesa said:


> Never been so glad before to see brass pipe. I did have to spend 30mins to chisel the end of the galv pipe threads out of the brass 90 though. It wasn't too bad.


I would not want that kind of job. What a depressing scene to have such old pipes and just a complaint or lawsuit away because they'll blame you when the toilet flood the place. It's all cracked!


----------



## skoronesa

Tango said:


> I would not want that kind of job. What a depressing scene to have such old pipes and just a complaint or lawsuit away because they'll blame you when the toilet flood the place. It's all cracked!


Not all of us live in the dog eat dog world you do. This woman was just happy we even stepped foot in her house.


----------



## skoronesa

Tango said:


> I would not want that kind of job. What a depressing scene to have such old pipes and just a complaint or lawsuit away because they'll blame you when the toilet flood the place. It's all cracked!


I guess it could go in the soap thread but I don't feel like it right now. Huge 3 story house plus finished attic. Place was built around 1910. She has a bunch of other stuff she needs fixed, namely 4 lav sinks that are clogged and they use vented traps that haven't been made in probably 60 years. She has 3 or 4 wall hung porcelain tank toilets that need complete rebuilds. There's also a wooden wall hung tank toilet in the basement that needs to be rebuilt and some galv water lines there too that need to be replaced. If you look at the other pics I removed one cone valve from that mess. There's at least 6 or 7 more cone valves on galv pipe in this house under pressure. It used to be fed from a 1-1/2" galv water main so some spots in the house still have 1-1/2" galv mixed with other sizes where it's been patched.

The original kitchen she turned into a "kennel" aka filled her kitchen with crap and like 7 dog, cat, and bird cages. She keeps 6 dogs, 5 cats, 2 or 3 birds(might have been more, I only heard them) and some reptile, I think it was a turtle. Apparently she rescued them all(from death??) and so they're destined to live their lives in prison instead. During good weather the dogs and cats also go outside.

The house is FILLED with antiques because she owns an atiques shop and is an antiques dealer. She firmly believes every single word that comes out of the mouths of trump and other extremely right wing politicians. Word for word. She would make shtrns look like a liberal commie. I told her how I am pro gun so we're good. Oddly enough the one thing she doesn't accept from the right is covid being a lie, she is very firm about mask wearing and keeping things "clean"(stuff other people touch? dog/cat schit is exempt I guess???).

My guess is she's scared for her life because she's almost 70 and used to smoke.


----------



## Tango

skoronesa said:


> I guess it could go in the soap thread but I don't feel like it right now. Huge 3 story house plus finished attic. Place was built around 1910. She has a bunch of other stuff she needs fixed, namely 4 lav sinks that are clogged and they use vented traps that haven't been made in probably 60 years. She has 3 or 4 wall hung porcelain tank toilets that need complete rebuilds. There's also a wooden wall hung tank toilet in the basement that needs to be rebuilt and some galv water lines there too that need to be replaced. If you look at the other pics I removed one cone valve from that mess. There's at least 6 or 7 more cone valves on galv pipe in this house under pressure. It used to be fed from a 1-1/2" galv water main so some spots in the house still have 1-1/2" galv mixed with other sizes where it's been patched.
> 
> The original kitchen she turned into a "kennel" aka filled her kitchen with crap and like 7 dog, cat, and bird cages. She keeps 6 dogs, 5 cats, 2 or 3 birds(might have been more, I only heard them) and some reptile, I think it was a turtle. Apparently she rescued them all(from death??) and so they're destined to live their lives in prison instead. During good weather the dogs and cats also go outside.
> 
> The house is FILLED with antiques because she owns an atiques shop and is an antiques dealer. She firmly believes every single word that comes out of the mouths of trump and other extremely right wing politicians. Word for word. She would make shtrns look like a liberal commie. I told her how I am pro gun so we're good. Oddly enough the one thing she doesn't accept from the right is covid being a lie, she is very firm about mask wearing and keeping things "clean"(stuff other people touch? dog/cat schit is exempt I guess???).
> 
> My guess is she's scared for her life because she's almost 70 and used to smoke.


Always amazes me they dramatically fear covid and their place is filthy. I bet hey believe the 30 second rule if food falls on the floor.


----------



## RichardBull

I specialize in jobs that no one wants to send their crappy mechanic to do because of the liability. 🤭
















Going tomorrow to replace the pex and sharkbites with copper to a ksink island.

plumber 4 years ago used sharkbites.

I’ll braze it in, easy peazy, cut the check.....


----------



## sparky

RichardBull said:


> That sink drain looks like it’s falling the wrong way, flat at best.


Bahahahahaha,job security,that way he gets to go back in 366 days and rotoroot it for more money,ingenuity at its best


----------



## sparky

skoronesa said:


> I see what you're saying but I know it has pitch. I checked it before screwing the ceiling plate down and I did that last.
> 
> I'm sure I'll go back to that old place for something and when I do, I will double check.


Don't do that you have done it perfectly for us service plumbers lolololol perfection


----------



## skoronesa

sparky said:


> Bahahahahaha,job security,that way he gets to go back in 366 days and rotoroot it for more money,ingenuity at its best





sparky said:


> Don't do that you have done it perfectly for us service plumbers lolololol perfection


Phuck off.


----------



## skoronesa

The cast iron flange was 3/8" off the floor and the floor was a 1/2" lower at the front of the toilet. I grouted the front edge with hydraulic cement/aquaplug. I have to do this every couple years, don't usually run into stuff this bad I can't find a different solution for. The cement looks dark now but will dry as light as the grout and be waterproof. I went back with a wet sponge and cleaned the excess up even more, just left the sponge in the van the first time. It chips out easily if you need to pull the toilet.

It was an inside caulk flange and because the pipe was short leaving a large hole there is the common issue where the wax ring slipped inside. To stop the new wax falling in I put a standard wax ring in upside down and then a horned ring on top. When the hub of the flange is deeper than this I will actually cut a short piece of 4" pipe to fill the gap.

Because @Debo22 will ask what model, it's a 14" rough, 1.28gpf, elongated, ADA height, kohler highline, bowl model 4149. Flushes well but the toilet bend was holding almost an inch of water. The old Am.Std I took out was a 3-1/2gpf. I hope this line doesn't start clogging because of the low flush toilet. Our fixtures department has a fetish for 1.28gpf toilets. Oh, and if you order a toilet you have to specify you need a seat too, because phuck me if every toilet needs a seat right? Luckily we had one at the shop so I didn't have to waste time stopping at the supply house.

I saved the old Am.Std and I am going to rebuild it and replace my d/s toilet. This was an office and the monthly water bill went from 1-2k gal./month to 12k gallons. Only possible culprit was this old toilet. It has the Am.Std. barrel style flush mechanism which can be a pain. Since I replaced their women's toilet two years ago they opted to just get a matching one for the men's.


----------



## sparky

skoronesa said:


> Phuck off.


Bahahahahaha,Richard caught you,don't get mad lolololololo


----------



## skoronesa

sparky said:


> Bahahahahaha,job security,that way he gets to go back in 366 days and rotoroot it for more money,ingenuity at its best





sparky said:


> Don't do that you have done it perfectly for us service plumbers lolololol perfection





sparky said:


> Bahahahahaha,Richard caught you,don't get mad lolololololo


I told you to phuck off because you were implying I would intentionally install something poorly to ensure they'd call me later to fix it. I don't take kindly to implications of fraud or any other criminal conduct.

I hear he's looking for a room mate for his cell in the loony bin if you really miss him that much


----------



## sparky

skoronesa said:


> I told you to phuck off because you were implying I would intentionally install something poorly to ensure they'd call me later to fix it. I don't take kindly to implications of fraud or any other criminal conduct.
> 
> I hear he's looking for a room mate for his cell in the loony bin if you really miss him that much


Fraud or criminal conduct???what are you talking about??dude you ran a drain uphill by mistake then posted a pic of it,where's the thick skin we hear so much about??!lolololololololol


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

sparky said:


> Fraud or criminal conduct???what are you talking about??dude you ran a drain uphill by mistake then posted a pic of it,where's the thick skin we hear so much about??!lolololololololol


just wait till he crys to the mods for being picked on....some people want to dish it out but certainly cant take it.... 💩 💩 💩 💩


----------



## sparky

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> just wait till he crys to the mods for being picked on....some people want to dish it out but certainly cant take it.... 💩 💩 💩 💩


You got that right,
Y’all can say anything you want to me on here and I’m not gonna get mad about it,it’s an online forum lolololololololoplol


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

sparky said:


> You got that right,
> Y’all can say anything you want to me on here and I’m not gonna get mad about it,it’s an online forum lolololololololoplol


same here...like water rolling off a ducks back....


----------



## Tango

Here's a cute kitten... Carry on


----------



## skoronesa

sparky said:


> Fraud or criminal conduct???what are you talking about??dude you ran a drain uphill by mistake then posted a pic of it,where's the thick skin we hear so much about??!lolololololololol


Sarcasm bro 

Some get it and some don't then they cry to the mods.


----------



## Venomthirst

skoronesa said:


> Sarcasm bro
> 
> Some get it and some don't then they cry to the mods.


Don't worry Skoro Im on your side that sink drain looks way better than half of what I see out there! Look where its coming from the guy who never made a mistake


----------



## sparky

skoronesa said:


> Sarcasm bro
> 
> Some get it and some don't then they cry to the mods.


Ok good so glad you weren’t but hurt as I see you say all the time lololololol


----------



## skoronesa

sparky said:


> Ok good so glad you weren’t but hurt as I see you say all the time lololololol


Did you really think I was going to make a federal case out of it? I wasn't being accused of inciting an insurrection! lolz


----------



## Tango

"the guy who never made a mistake" just got banned on another forum and all his posts deleted.


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

Tango said:


> Here's a cute kitten... Carry on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 127860


that is till the cat takes a bite out of the tail or a more tender area....


----------



## Tango

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> that is till the cat takes a bite out of the tail or a more tender area....


Watch it all, you'll see what happens.


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

Tango said:


> Watch it all, you'll see what happens.


if the cat bite between the legs.......but that didnt look like the dog minded much..


----------



## sparky

Tango said:


> "the guy who never made a mistake" just got banned on another forum and all his posts deleted.


What forum????


----------



## skoronesa

sparky said:


> What forum????


Terry love's diy forum


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> Terry love's diy forum


so what..I got banned from the diy side of this sight..guess they didnt like my answers to azzhole home owners...


----------



## skoronesa

I use propress when it makes sense. I love my Trimo. Added new shut off and hosebibb.


----------



## skoronesa

The trellis had been cut to fit the old bent copper that was there so I bent a new piece to replace the burst one.


----------



## skoronesa

Do they even make 3/8" OD slip couplings? Now I need some 

Had to remove spout for pink granite top repair. The valve bodies wouldn't budge, deck nuts corroded in place with very little to grab. 

I put the new ceramic stems in so it's better than any of the modern crap available for less than 600$.


----------



## Tango

skoronesa said:


> pink granite top .



Nice job!

The marble is FUGLY. I just had to say it.


----------



## thumper

skoronesa said:


> Do they even make 3/8" OD slip couplings? Now I need some
> 
> Had to remove spout for pink granite top repair. The valve bodies wouldn't budge, deck nuts corroded in place with very little to grab.
> 
> I put the new ceramic stems in so it's better than any of the modern crap available for less than 600$.
> View attachment 127971
> View attachment 127972
> View attachment 127973


That Kolher faucet look brand spanking new! I need their huosekeepers name! I love the ceramic cartridge replacement for the valvet system. Thanks Kohler!


----------



## skoronesa

Stub out and winter drain for hose spigot. 

This is my own house.

Right next to a stair case so I made it pretty flush with the wall and ran the drain down so I could set a cup on the step. I cut a groove for the pipe to sit in. The pipe couldn't go any higher without getting into the plaster on the outside of the house which I did not want to risk cracking. There was already a hole here through the hardwood sill plate and it was on an angle. I added a slate(with pitch) and cemented next to the house to prevent water ingress.


----------



## skoronesa

I had one really large cast iron shelf bracket.

Don't let richard bull see this, he'll claim it looks backpitched compared to the wall lolz.


----------



## sparky

J


skoronesa said:


> I had one really large cast iron shelf bracket.
> 
> Don't let richard bull see this, he'll claim it looks backpitched compared to the wall lolz.
> 
> View attachment 128028
> View attachment 128029
> View attachment 128030


heyyyy,that is falling backwards lolololololo and you can be prosecuted for that lolololobahahahaha (jk)


----------



## skoronesa

More of a story than a picture. Fill valve was running, stop didn't work, and anti-sweat valve was only letting hot through. Woman said the toilet was so hot she couldn't sit on it. It's a tall toilet too!

I ran out of torch gas and had to search through their two bay garage full of carp for a can. Only found a full 20lb tank on their grill so I used my hose and adapter and lugged the thing upstairs. Problem was it was only a 3' hose because it was just meant to put the 1lb tank on your hip so I had the 20lb tank on the toilet lid the whole time.


----------



## skoronesa

When you really need a cleanout.


----------



## skoronesa

Brine tank with ~200# of salt still inside.


----------



## skoronesa

Plastic flange had the outer portion ripped off so I added a new bolt flange and filled in the gaps with hydraulic cement. It was slab of course, in a pool house bathroom. Used a horned gasket.


----------



## skoronesa

I had to drill out the stainless steel screws and then I find THIS!! Drilled and tapped for "new" screws.


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> When you really need a cleanout.
> 
> 
> View attachment 128034
> View attachment 128035


why didnt you use a PVC test T???








TRPVC3A - Holdrite TRPVC3A - 3" Testrite PVC DWV Test/Cleanout Tee with Plug


Holdrite TRPVC3A - 3" Testrite PVC DWV Test/Cleanout Tee with Plug - <b>Features:</b><ul> <li>Includes PVC Test/Cleanout Tee, PVC Spanner Ring and Cleanout Plug <li>Ideal for horizontal and vertical testing <li>Made in the USA <li>Lab tested and IAPMO (UPC/IPC) Listed <li>Pressure ratings up to...




www.supplyhouse.com


----------



## sparky

skoronesa said:


> When you really need a cleanout.
> 
> 
> View attachment 128034
> View attachment 128035


H


skoronesa said:


> Brine tank with ~200# of salt still inside.
> 
> 
> View attachment 128037
> View attachment 128038





skoronesa said:


> Plastic flange had the outer portion ripped off so I added a new bolt flange and filled in the gaps with hydraulic cement. It was slab of course, in a pool house bathroom. Used a horned gasket.
> 
> View attachment 128041


Perfect,nice fix


----------



## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> why didnt you use a PVC test T???
> ....


Because I thought this would match the decor better.

Why on earth do you think I didn't? I didn't have a female tee on the van and I was miles from anywhere. The sewage was coming up from a drain in the commercial kitchen of this school an hour before lunch. I needed to clear it NOW. I was in a janitors closet off the back of the kitchen.

The school employs a master plumber, but he is quite old and doesn't do drain snaking or the more labor intensive projects. He is busy most of the time anyway with other small stuff. I left it up to him to add a tee later. I didn't bother replacing it with a straight piece of pipe because the dorms upstairs were active and I wasn't going to try and notify 100 teenagers to not use the bathrooms for my convenience. That pic is from a couple years ago, it either hasn't clogged or they changed it.


----------



## skoronesa

I was swapping out a washing machine and shutoff today and when I put the water back on and found 3 more pinholes. We've been here a couple times over the years because of her acidic water and she finally wanted a quote on a neutralizer a month ago when one of our guys replaced some more stuff. Two of the pinholes were on either side of an old globe valve to the left of this new PP tee our guy put in. I soldered my coupling that close to the tee  Wet rag. 

I didn't bother putting another valve in because it just wasn't necessary. The center of my coupling is where one pinhole was. With the pipe in such bad shaped I didn't want to put another PP fitting on and make that new tee leak. You can see the 90 from two years ago is already green. The other pinhole was a 1/4" from that 45 so I took the old nipple out.

The old symmons washer valve was all green and screwed to a piece of mdf but was just hanging there, never screwed to the wall. I put in a watts, hopefully the balls will hold up better than o-rings.


----------



## skoronesa

I also got a nice package today, 5lbs of solder  64$ including shipping off ebay


----------



## sparky

skoronesa said:


> I was swapping out a washing machine and shutoff today and when I put the water back on and found 3 more pinholes. We've been here a couple times over the years because of her acidic water and she finally wanted a quote on a neutralizer a month ago when one of our guys replaced some more stuff. Two of the pinholes were on either side of an old globe valve to the left of this new PP tee our guy put in. I soldered my coupling that close to the tee  Wet rag.
> 
> I didn't bother putting another valve in because it just wasn't necessary. The center of my coupling is where one pinhole was. With the pipe in such bad shaped I didn't want to put another PP fitting on and make that new tee leak. You can see the 90 from two years ago is already green. The other pinhole was a 1/4" from that 45 so I took the old nipple out.
> 
> The old symmons washer valve was all green and screwed to a piece of mdf but was just hanging there, never screwed to the wall. I put in a watts, hopefully the balls will hold up better than o-rings.
> 
> 
> View attachment 128535
> View attachment 128536
> View attachment 128537


Could electrolysis be causing any of these issues???just a thought


----------



## skoronesa

sparky said:


> Could electrolysis be causing any of these issues???just a thought


It ain't, we've examined that and tested the water, it's acidic.


----------



## sparky

skoronesa said:


> It ain't, we've examined that and tested the water, it's acidic.


Any of the neighbors having same issues???well water or city water??you would think if city water the neighbors would have same issues if acidic,and maybe they do???


----------



## skoronesa

sparky said:


> Any of the neighbors having same issues???well water or city water??you would think if city water the neighbors would have same issues if acidic,and maybe they do???


It's well water and the closest neighbor is like a half mile.


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> I also got a nice package today, 5lbs of solder  64$ including shipping off ebay
> 
> 
> View attachment 128538


it says LEAD solder..you can only use that on heat lines...


----------



## skoronesa

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> it says LEAD solder..you can only use that on heat lines...



And if you knew your WB solder you'd know *it's actually lead free.* 

That would explain why the seller sold it to me so cheap, they didn't know what they had  It's essentially the same as silvabrite 100, just 0.4%silver instead of silvabrite's 0.5%.


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill

skoronesa said:


> And if you knew your WB solder you'd know *it's actually lead free.*
> 
> That would explain why the seller sold it to me so cheap, they didn't know what they had  It's essentially the same as silvabrite 100, just 0.4%silver instead of silvabrite's 0.5%.
> 
> 
> View attachment 128541


lots of people have no idea what they are selling on ebay, they buy up lots of stuff and just list it on ebay to sell...way cheaper than its worth..


----------



## sparky

skoronesa said:


> It's well water and the closest neighbor is like a half mile.


Ok,gotcha


----------



## thumper

skoronesa said:


> I had to drill out the stainless steel screws and then I find THIS!! Drilled and tapped for "new" screws.
> 
> View attachment 128042
> View attachment 128043


Do you know what that bolt in the center is for? I usually find them in a grocery store chain that we service. I'm guessing, but I think the bolt is to support the brass clean out cover. Especially when there is a chance of heavy traffic - forklifts, pallete jacks.......


----------



## skoronesa

thumper said:


> Do you know what that bolt in the center is for? I usually find them in a grocery store chain that we service. I'm guessing, but* I think the bolt is to support the brass clean out cover. *Especially when there is a chance of heavy traffic - forklifts, pallete jacks.......


That's what it's for.


----------



## skoronesa

I changed a hosebibb and shut off the other day. 

I noticed the guy who put the faucet in *cut the delta supply lines!!!!* He even used white teflon tape to make it more betterer.


----------



## skoronesa

skoronesa said:


> I also got a nice package today, 5lbs of solder  64$ including shipping off ebay
> 
> 
> View attachment 128538



I've gone through two rolls of solder since I posted this. How much do you guys still solder?


----------



## Tango

skoronesa said:


> I've gone through two rolls of solder since I posted this. How much do you guys still solder?


 Every week. Maybe every other day. I bought a huge roll of solder worth over 550$ for 50$ when I started out, I'm about half way through.


----------



## skoronesa

Tango said:


> Every week. Maybe every other day. I bought a huge roll of solder worth over 550$ for 50$ when I started out, I'm about half way through.


How big was it? Where did you get it? Ive never seen bigger than ~2lbs roll.


----------



## Nazareth

skoronesa said:


> I've gone through two rolls of solder since I posted this. How much do you guys still solder?



Made this for you


----------



## skoronesa

Well son of a beach!!!! I didn't notice that when I took the pic!


----------



## skoronesa

Nazareth said:


> Made this for you
> 
> View attachment 129438



I propress plenty of stuff. I soldered in this new hosebibb and shut off but propressed in the new water filter below it.


















A couple weeks ago I soldered in this new cuno filter.










*It all depends on the situation.* That hosebibb one doesn't make sense until you learn I only soldered the back side of that valve while in the stud bay, the rest of those solder joints I did on the ground safey away from the foam. I don't use a female adapter because those threads on the back of those prier hosebibbs are garbage, they have flat crests and don't seal well.


----------



## Tango

Got it from a retired plumber. I also bought from him an almost brand new angle drill and bits. We'd regularly had half the size of this roll on jobsites when I used to work commercial and tall buildings.


----------



## thumper

skoronesa said:


> I changed a hosebibb and shut off the other day.
> 
> I noticed the guy who put the faucet in *cut the delta supply lines!!!!* He even used white teflon tape to make it more betterer.
> 
> 
> View attachment 129434
> View attachment 129435


Do not ever cut off the prickhead on a condo or high rise. Water pressure can vary greatly depending on where you are in the zone. I have seen +90 psi on the low side of a zone. I have heard that other plumbers had the pex line pulled out of the plastic compression sleeves due to high water pressure. Delta used to provided the plastic compression sleeves with their faucets, but now I don't see them anymore
Liability!


----------



## skoronesa

thumper said:


> .........pulled out of the plastic compression sleeves due to high water pressure. .........


You're about a month late to the party lolz. We had a guy on here, he was very.....adamant.....that we all had our heads up our arses because we were saying the same thing, never cut off the factory ends on the delta supply lines.


----------



## Sstratton6175

skoronesa said:


> I've gone through two rolls of solder since I posted this. How much do you guys still solder?


It isn’t uncommon for me to go through 1 to 2 rolls per day if I’m doing a lot of 3” and 4” pipe.


----------



## skoronesa

Sstratton6175 said:


> It isn’t uncommon for me to go through 1 to 2 rolls per day if I’m doing a lot of 3” and 4” pipe.


You must be in chicago/philly/union territory.

When are you doing 4" copper? I do almost exclusively service work so using as much solder as I do is still pretty impressive.


----------



## Sstratton6175

skoronesa said:


> You must be in chicago/philly/union territory.
> 
> When are you doing 4" copper? I do almost exclusively service work so using as much solder as I do is still pretty impressive.


Boston, Ma. The 4” copper I do it usually on boiler installs.


----------



## skoronesa

Sstratton6175 said:


> Boston, Ma. The 4” copper I do it usually on boiler installs.


Of course. We used to do 3" copper headers, bigger than that we'd have it welded.


----------



## Debo22

Sstratton6175 said:


> Boston, Ma. The 4” copper I do it usually on boiler installs.


Boston? You ever run into Stevie Lav?


----------



## Sstratton6175

Debo22 said:


> Boston? You ever run into Stevie Lav?


Not in the flesh. Only on YouTube haha.


----------



## Sstratton6175

skoronesa said:


> Of course. We used to do 3" copper headers, bigger than that we'd have it welded.


I’d prefer to have 4” welded but we don’t have a welder that works directly for us and we often can’t get the guys we sub out because they are booked out.


----------



## skoronesa

I thought of @Debo22 when I fixed this today.

One day I will find a bad solder joint at this house, and it will have a sticker in it.


----------



## Debo22




----------



## sparky

Debo22 said:


> View attachment 129765
> View attachment 129766


Drill that plunger out of there as sko says to do lolololololololo


----------



## MACPLUMB777

Debo22 said:


> View attachment 129765
> View attachment 129766


How far into the house did you go with the copper ?


----------



## Debo22

MACPLUMB777 said:


> How far into the house did you go with the copper ?


About 2 feet then switched to pex


----------



## Nazareth

Weil McClain Gold Series platform boiler to NRCB combi retrofit. Took two days

Sparky is coming tomorrow to add a plug on the side of the wall we want


----------



## skoronesa

Nazareth said:


> Made this for you
> 
> View attachment 129438


I just got two more rolls of solder and a new jar of tinning flux last week  And a new PREMIUM 1/2" fitting brush! Because I'm worth it.


----------



## skoronesa

Replaced a bunch of cast iron. The 2" line on the left is a vent that goes straight up several floors. The weight had cracked some fittings. The pipe is exposed next to the toilet because the plumbing was added decades after the house was built. I used a riser clamp on the floor to prevent it from falling more. Sorry there is no before pic.

@The Dane The OLD waterline is so shallow it used to freeze. They ran a 1/4" copper line off the main and tapped directly into the waste line. Used a petcock to regulate the flow. This was long before water meters and I think the town water was spring fed. Total water use wasn't really an issue. Only a small number of houses would have had town water.

I cut the lead riser just above the c.i. hub and initially was going to fernco to the lead riser. Then I remembered that a couple months prior I had replaced the toilet flange with a TKO. So I just reached up in and primed/glued the inside of the toilet flange and inserted 3" PVC from below. It's a wall hung tank toilet, I had completely rebuilt it not long ago. I will try to find the pics.


----------



## skoronesa

I hate plaster, especially with metal lath. It was a closet so at least I could shut the doors and keep the mess inside. I started cutting with my Fein tool but decided to just go full send and use the diamond blade on my angle grinder. It was a cracked 2" ABS 90. Master lav sinks drain. ~30 years old. As usual there was a ton of crap left from the trades in the ceiling that fell out as I opened it. 












I like the ultra wide view option my new phone has.


----------



## sparky

skoronesa said:


> I just got two more rolls of solder and a new jar of tinning flux last week  And a new PREMIUM 1/2" fitting brush! Because I'm worth it.


I’ve got a case of tinning flux I bought for nothing at an auction and I would give you 10 jars of tinning flux


----------



## KCPlumb

Debo22 said:


> It’s been a little slow but people can’t have water coming through the ceiling. This galvanized pipe sprung a leak so I opened the ceiling where the water was coming out. It turns out the leak was 6’ away. I tried cutting the bad section out to replace it but the threads broke in the tee when I tried to unthread it. I had to open another hole in the shower to re-do it.


That long leaky galvanized is perfect for megapress fithings.


----------



## TerryTotoSucks

skoronesa said:


> Replaced a bunch of cast iron. The 2" line on the left is a vent that goes straight up several floors. The weight had cracked some fittings. The pipe is exposed next to the toilet because the plumbing was added decades after the house was built. I used a riser clamp on the floor to prevent it from falling more. Sorry there is no before pic.
> 
> @The Dane The OLD waterline is so shallow it used to freeze. They ran a 1/4" copper line off the main and tapped directly into the waste line. Used a petcock to regulate the flow. This was long before water meters and I think the town water was spring fed. Total water use wasn't really an issue. Only a small number of houses would have had town water.
> 
> I cut the lead riser just above the c.i. hub and initially was going to fernco to the lead riser. Then I remembered that a couple months prior I had replaced the toilet flange with a TKO. So I just reached up in and primed/glued the inside of the toilet flange and inserted 3" PVC from below. It's a wall hung tank toilet, I had completely rebuilt it not long ago. I will try to find the pics.
> 
> View attachment 131930
> 
> 
> View attachment 131931
> 
> 
> View attachment 131932
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 131933


How was that pvc flange connected to that lead ?


----------



## sparky

TerryTotoSucks said:


> How was that pvc flange connected to that lead ?


Stuck down in lead and wax ring around it or sillycone lololo


----------



## TerryTotoSucks

sparky said:


> Stuck down in lead and wax ring around it or sillycone lololo


Good Lord…....🙁


----------



## sparky

TerryTotoSucks said:


> Good Lord…....🙁


Gotta watch ole sko,he will rat one in ever so often lololololo


----------



## TerryTotoSucks

skoronesa said:


> Replaced a bunch of cast iron. The 2" line on the left is a vent that goes straight up several floors. The weight had cracked some fittings. The pipe is exposed next to the toilet because the plumbing was added decades after the house was built. I used a riser clamp on the floor to prevent it from falling more. Sorry there is no before pic.
> 
> @The Dane The OLD waterline is so shallow it used to freeze. They ran a 1/4" copper line off the main and tapped directly into the waste line. Used a petcock to regulate the flow. This was long before water meters and I think the town water was spring fed. Total water use wasn't really an issue. Only a small number of houses would have had town water.
> 
> I cut the lead riser just above the c.i. hub and initially was going to fernco to the lead riser. Then I remembered that a couple months prior I had replaced the toilet flange with a TKO. So I just reached up in and primed/glued the inside of the toilet flange and inserted 3" PVC from below. It's a wall hung tank toilet, I had completely rebuilt it not long ago. I will try to find the pics.
> 
> View attachment 131930
> 
> 
> View attachment 131931
> 
> 
> View attachment 131932
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 131933


Where’s the horned wax seal ?

Looks like you did a good job to me….💯


----------



## TerryTotoSucks

Here’s how I’ve been doing them for a while now. I also like the stainless ring type, I just bought a couple cases. That should last me until I retire 🤣


----------



## skoronesa

TerryTotoSucks said:


> Where’s the horned wax seal ?
> 
> Looks like you did a good job to me….💯


Regular wax, it was an all new tko flange shoved into the lead with some caulk to last until I came back and replaced the cast iron below. I prefer solid pvc but sometimes we use abs and it's always coex, in those cases I use a horned wax to keep the end of the pipe dry.

Pre-war toilets usually have an integrated horn that is 1" proud of the skirt. Shame they don't do that anymore.


----------



## skoronesa

TerryTotoSucks said:


> View attachment 136470
> 
> Here’s how I’ve been doing them for a while now. I also like the stainless ring type, I just bought a couple cases. That should last me until I retire 🤣


I've seen too many of those all plastic flanges have the bolt pulled up and out. When that happens I cut the outer 3/4" or so off and use a "Clam Flange" instead.

It really bothers me that toilets no longer have a second set of holes to fasten them to the floor separate from the flange.


----------



## TerryTotoSucks

skoronesa said:


> I've seen too many of those all plastic flanges have the bolt pulled up and out. When that happens I cut the outer 3/4" or so off and use a "Clam Flange" instead.
> 
> It really bothers me that toilets no longer have a second set of holes to fasten them to the floor separate from the flange.


After I caulk a toilet down and it dries, you could take the nuts and washers off the closet bolts and throw them away.


----------



## skoronesa

TerryTotoSucks said:


> After I caulk a toilet down and it dries, you could take the nuts and washers off the closet bolts and throw them away.


I agree for the most part. I use GE 100% silicone. Problem isn't the strength of the silicone but what it's bonded to.


----------



## TerryTotoSucks

skoronesa said:


> I agree for the most part. I use GE 100% silicone. Problem isn't the strength of the silicone but what it's bonded to.


Yes, the floor must be a real floor. ✌

I have to donkey kick them on occasion to get them up. 🤣


----------



## Nazareth

TerryTotoSucks said:


> After I caulk a toilet down and it dries, you could take the nuts and washers off the closet bolts and throw them away.


I don’t caulk my toilets.

I know it’s against code. Don’t care.

when the wax is a goner I want to know about it, and I don’t want the floor to be ruined


----------



## TerryTotoSucks

Nazareth said:


> I don’t caulk my toilets.
> 
> I know it’s against code. Don’t care.
> 
> when the wax is a goner I want to know about it, and I don’t want the floor to be ruined


You don’t care if pee pee gets under there ? 🤣

I won’t tell if you don’t ✌


----------



## KCPlumb

Finished wood floors in a bathroom is dumb.


----------



## TerryTotoSucks

KCPlumb said:


> Finished wood floors in a bathroom is dumb.


Yah, carpets even worse ! 🤣
They have a chandelier in the garage. Absolutely nuts.
3 story house will elevator and walk-in attic with roof hatch.

NFL player
He pays me to drive 5 hrs to his house in northern part of state to work. I stay at his guest house and his chef cooks for me ! It’s pretty awesome 

Britney Spears had TV’s in her shower. TV’s in the vanity mirror also. This was years ago….


----------



## TerryTotoSucks




----------



## DDDave

Carpet must be on order. Never seen a chandelier


----------



## Tango

A Chandelier in a garage.... Included is a sofa and mini bar.


----------



## KCPlumb

Pretty opulent one might say, on the other hand I might say WTF?


----------



## TerryTotoSucks

That guy has way better taste in cars than he do beer. 🤣✌


----------



## Nazareth

TerryTotoSucks said:


> That guy has way better taste in cars than he do beer. 🤣✌


you take that back right now

Debo will back me on this, coors is the best pounding beer there is


----------



## Nazareth

TerryTotoSucks said:


> You don’t care if pee pee gets under there ? 🤣
> 
> I won’t tell if you don’t ✌


if someone manages to get piss under a toilet to where it’s so bad it smells the place up, they have other problems

in all reality, if there’s little kids in the house I’ll caulk the front only


----------



## Tango

Nazareth said:


> you take that back right now
> 
> Debo will back me on this, coors is the best pounding beer there is


I'm biased towards the car... 

I don't like beer...


----------



## KCPlumb

Nazareth said:


> you take that back right now
> 
> Debo will back me on this, coors is the best pounding beer there is


Well I don’t like to get pounded, and I’m not going to judge you if you like it.


----------



## TerryTotoSucks

Nazareth said:


> you take that back right now
> 
> Debo will back me on this, coors is the best pounding beer there is


Coors is alcohol flavored water. 

All It’s good for is breakfast and to take meds with.


----------



## goeswiththeflow

Nazareth said:


> I don’t caulk my toilets.
> 
> I know it’s against code. Don’t care.
> 
> when the wax is a goner I want to know about it, and I don’t want the floor to be ruined


Right on. Every time I have to pull one that was caulked I curse the guy who did it. 
Guess it's better than the tile guys who grout the toilet in.


----------



## TerryTotoSucks

goeswiththeflow said:


> Right on. Every time I have to pull one that was caulked I curse the guy who did it.
> Guess it's better than the tile guys who grout the toilet in.


I grout them in sometimes, just depends. 

But with the caulk, I’ll turn the bowl upside down and lay a thick bead of 100% silicone and stick it down.


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## KCPlumb

goeswiththeflow said:


> Right on. Every time I have to pull one that was caulked I curse the guy who did it.
> Guess it's better than the tile guys who grout the toilet in.


That’s the freaking worse thing ever when tile is installed around the base of the bowl! I ask customers “what am I supposed to do with that?!” Then I’ll tell them “I’ll pull the toilet, remove the flange, but you need to call the tile guy back and have him correct this abortion!” “only then will I install the flange on top of the finished floor where it belongs and install your new toilet!”


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## Nazareth

TerryTotoSucks said:


> I grout them in sometimes, just depends.
> 
> But with the caulk, I’ll turn the bowl upside down and lay a thick bead of 100% silicone and stick it down.


terry gets a special place in hell


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## Terrill

In my state, the inspectors expect the bowl to be caulked to the floor, with the back left open, so that any leak of the seal gets spotted quickly. They do make caulking that allows for lifting the bowl up later if needed. I also don't like and won't use Silicone.
PolySeamSeal, a water-based caulk is easy to apply and tool, and any uncured adhesive cleans up with just soap and water. I use clear, goes on white and dries clear. If there is a seal leak, the caulking turns white again and makes it easy to spot that it's leaking. I tell the customer that the next morning it will dry clear, but if it remains white in places, to give me a call.


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## Debo22

TerryTotoSucks said:


> Coors is alcohol flavored water.
> 
> All It’s good for is breakfast and to take meds with.


Next time you have a party put out a cooler full of Coors Light and a cooler full of “good” beer. The Coors Light will be gone first guaranteed.


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## TerryTotoSucks

Debo22 said:


> Next time you have a party put out a cooler full of Coors Light and a cooler full of “good” beer. The Coors Light will be gone first guaranteed.


That’s a big negative. I hang out with Gen-X.

Keystone light is coors light. They just switch the cans.


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## Debo22

TerryTotoSucks said:


> That’s a big negative. I hang out with Gen-X.
> 
> Keystone light is coors light. They just switch the cans.


Yep, I started with Keystone Light in the early 90’s when I was poor. Now it’s only Coors Light, when I’m drinking beer I like to have about 15


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## Terrill

Two pints of Space Dust IPA and I'm done for the night.


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## Tango

Debo22 said:


> Yep, I started with Keystone Light in the early 90’s when I was poor. Now it’s only Coors Light, when I’m drinking beer I like to have about 15





Terrill said:


> Two pints of Space Dust IPA and I'm done for the night.


15 Litres of 94 Octane fills me up for the night.


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## skoronesa

Tango said:


> 15 Litres of 94 Octane fills me up for the night.


I'd much rather do something that's actually fun than just get drunk. Stay sober, drive fast.


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## sparky

TerryTotoSucks said:


> Coors is alcohol flavored water.
> 
> All It’s good for is breakfast and to take meds with.


Ask that guy sitting there with his ear in his hand about Colorado koolaid lolololo


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## sparky

Tango said:


> 15 Litres of 94 Octane fills me up for the night.


I Dont drink much anymore,I’m strictly narcotics lolololo


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## Nazareth

Debo22 said:


> Yep, I started with Keystone Light in the early 90’s when I was poor. Now it’s only Coors Light, when I’m drinking beer I like to have about 15


15 when he’s on his own, when I roll into town we fill a whole 45g trash can with empties 

I learned how to drink from this guy


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