# Sewer blades and cable life.



## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

*Sewer blade life*

When do you throw out your sewer blades, do you re-sharpen them and use them as long as you can.

I talked to a guy that used to work for the old RR that used to be here, he told me that the owner would make them bring their blade in for inspection and sharpening on the grinder and you didn't get a new one until he said it was time. I don't know how many they kept on the truck, but is sounded like only one or two. From what I was told, they techs used to burn through blades and always need new ones because they encountered a tough blockage, they would just snap off half of one of the blades by hand for a single and then just put a new full blade on when they needed a full blade again. He told me the owner put the blades under lock and key and only he was allowed to give new blades because of the waste.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

My General half blades get replaced as they break. I've never sharpened them. 
As a side note does sharpening really help that much??


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Surely having a sharp blade makes a faster cut and would require less torque. If the blades are too dull, then you're relying on torque to rip a root blockage out. 
I've got a big box of RR blades that I bought from a retired guy, so I just chunk them when they're done, but I've considered sharpening them after wear, but I am just too lazy. I figure they are expendable and are in the cost of the job.

I don't have much experience with General stuff.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

mpsllc said:


> My General half blades get replaced as they break. I've never sharpened them.
> As a side note does sharpening really help that much??


Yea.. The sharp edge lasts until it touches a pipe... :laughing:


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

Redwood said:


> Yea.. The sharp edge lasts until it touches a pipe... :laughing:



True but a dull beveled edge is going to cutt better than just a flat dull edge. I sharpen mine all the time. Takes no time at all, why not?


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

I guess I never considered it because normal use by default tends to sharpen them to a degree. Not to the point intentional sharpening would though.


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

mpsllc said:


> I guess I never considered it because normal use by default tends to sharpen them to a degree. Not to the point intentional sharpening would though.


I don't consider the wear on what I use as sharpened, just worn, and, for me, not as effective as new or as shop-sharpened could be, but like I said, I usually chunk them when they get too worn.


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Redwood said:


> Yea.. The sharp edge lasts until it touches a pipe... :laughing:



Not necessarily so and not instantly dulled. :no:

It's not like you would sharpen it enough to shave with it. My factory sharpened RR blades still look good after several uses.


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Will said:


> True but a dull beveled edge is going to cutt better than just a flat dull edge. I sharpen mine all the time. Takes no time at all, why not?


What kind of blades do you use?


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

I use Electric Eel cutters for my Model C(runs 1.25" & 7/8" sectional cables). I also use Electric Eel cutters as well as Ridgid cutters for my Model N (runs 5/8" cable). I have smaller cutters too for 5/16" and 3/8" cables for my Super Vee, but I don't sharpen them much. Don't need too when all they go up against is grease and hair most of the time.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Far more importantly how many of you take a new blade, where the sharpened tip is pointed inward, and bend it outward so it actually stands a chance of cutting something?


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

I never have. Do you find it does better?


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Redwood said:


> Far more importantly how many of you take a new blade, where the sharpened tip is pointed inward, and bend it outward so it actually stands a chance of cutting something?


Why is that "far more important"?

I have "spread" a blade before, but not at the tip, but just opened it a bit at the widest part of the radius, where it is strongest.


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

I take my pair & C cutters to the grinder and grind large aggressive monster teeth in them.

I dunno if it does any good but they sure look bad azz :laughing:


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

ChrisConnor said:


> Why is that "far more important"?
> 
> I have "spread" a blade before, but not at the tip, but just opened it a bit at the widest part of the radius, where it is strongest.


Well why would you want the sharpened cutter to be 1" off the wall of the pipe?

I'm there to cut the roots out....


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

Redwood said:


> Far more importantly how many of you take a new blade, where the sharpened tip is pointed inward, and bend it outward so it actually stands a chance of cutting something?




How do you do this without breaking the blade and how does this effect entry of the cutter through cleanouts ?


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Redwood said:


> Well why would you want the sharpened cutter to be 1" off the wall of the pipe?
> 
> I'm there to cut the roots out....


Me too, but I don't bend out the tips of my blades, just the middle arc if necessary, but usually it's not, the bent in areas are there to work into a blockage and keep the tips from gouging the pipe or getting into an offset. That's why round blades are recommended for terracotta, considering the offsets it's not something you want your blade digging into.

Whattaya mean 1" off the wall of the pipe? 

Here are two four inch blades a 4" round and 4" pear and the round blade will totally scrape the walls and pinches itself in the drain and the pear is less than 1/8" off the wall. Maybe you should find a new blade supplier or buy something other than three inch blades?


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

There ya go...

That sharp point is about an in inch off the pipe...


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Redwood said:


> There ya go...
> 
> That sharp point is about an in inch off the pipe...


I guess you didn't know that it's sharpened all the way to the hilt?:whistling2:

The tip is for digging into the blockage, you know, so the sides can scrape the wall of the pipe. The entire thing is the cutter, not just the tip.


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)




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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

ChrisConnor said:


> The tip is for digging into the blockage, you know.


Zackly! Curled into the center it does a great job...

I'm just saying.... :laughing:


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Redwood said:


> Zackly! Curled into the center it does a great job...
> 
> I'm just saying.... :laughing:


It does what it supposed to do, as it is designed.


Do you think you know more than the people who design the blades?

Like YOU said



Redwood said:


> Well why would you want the sharpened cutter to be 1" off the wall of the pipe?
> .


If you don't see the pipe wall being scraped by the sides of the already SHARPENED blade, then you're blind.

Also, like I said before, the curvature allows the blade to negotiate the pipe joints and bends and lessen the risk of damage and getting hung up.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

You're right Chris I don't know jack shiot...


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Redwood said:


> You're right Chris I don't know jack shiot...


Naah, Redwood, you're a know-it-all.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

ChrisConnor said:


> Naah, Redwood, you're a know-it-all.


Why thank you...

I also run a leader to negotiate turns... So the blade doesn't have to so it can cut more effectively...


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

I use a leader as well. It not only negotiates the turns easier but is easier on the change in direction fittings.


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Redwood said:


> Why thank you...
> 
> I also run a leader to negotiate turns... So the blade doesn't have to so it can cut more effectively...


:blink:


Why bother, after all.



Redwood said:


> Yea.. The sharp edge lasts until it touches a pipe... :laughing:


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

mpsllc said:


> I use a leader as well. It not only negotiates the turns easier but is easier on the change in direction fittings.



I rarely run a leader. Usually when it's an old CI line or it was built by free church volunteer workers, then you need all the help you can get.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

ChrisConnor said:


> I rarely run a leader. Usually when it's an old CI line or it was built by free church volunteer workers, then you need all the help you can get.


I guess we are in different worlds...

Here an old cast iron line is about as new as it gets...


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Redwood said:


> I guess we are in different worlds...
> 
> Here an old cast iron line is about as new as it gets...



Oh, you mean things aren't just like they are here? :laughing:


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

I get that. We have alot of really old sewer lines with single fitting 90 degree alley turn downs and I feel trying to get the 3/4 cable to make that turn is rough on that 1/4 bend. Hense the full time leader.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Ever meet a house trap?


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Redwood said:


> Ever meet a house trap?


Nope, never. No such thing here.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Nope, but I built one outta a Styrofoam cooler for the kitchen though.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Redwood said:


> Why thank you...
> 
> I also run a leader to negotiate turns... So the blade doesn't have to so it can cut more effectively...


Leader?? Is that a short cable infront of the head?? More info please???!!!


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

I run a 12" flexible leader on all my sewer calls(mainline anyway). I use 1.25" solid core sectional cable. Some times I use two flexible leaders coupled together. I will see if I can upload a picture. The leader helps the cable get through bends easier, it also helps get the cable through the cleanout easier. I also think(my option, never been proven) that with the flexible leader the cutter head swings around more in the pipe allow me to send in a smaller cutter head and still do major damage to the roots. 

On sectional machine a cutter head will cut 25% more than its actual size. So a 2 3/8" C cutter will actually cut 3" pipe to almost its full capacity. I'd think with a drum machine it would even do more with its corkscrew action. I wouldn't want to send in a cutter head the same diameter as the pipe. Thats asking to get struck, plus you would be relying 100% of the RPMs of the cutter head to do the cutting, so I hope you are using a sectional machine. If your using a drum machine then the smaller cutter head would do more cutting since it would corkscrew into the pipe and you would give it enough room to build up torque to do some major damage to the roots.


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## incarnatopnh (Feb 1, 2011)

Heck you want old pipes come here! Rarely do I run a pvc line. I'm happy to run a cast line anytime. Beats the busted up clay and collapsed orangeburg around here.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

Really it doesn't have to be an old line. I find many a 3" line with a 1/4 bend in alley. And they are not even long sweeps. So I just believe in going as easy on the drain as I can. My leader is 3ft. long and makes a alot of difference negotiating those turns.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

I use a ridgid sectional Machine just for warranty and a few service calls for select customers !!!! Is the leader a part you can buy and how do you attach it to the head???Or is this a cable and head you modify??? I have a vision in my head of what I think y'all are talkin about but a pic would be nice!!!! Just curious about it all!!! Thanks again guys!!!


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

I have a drum machine and the leader I run is something like this...










I can't tell you anything about sectionals as I has never owned or ran one...
I like to get cable in the line rather than waste time carrying cable in and adding sections...


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

The only time I run a leader on my 3/4" cable is when it is brand new, or I need to go through a trap. After 5 or 6 roddings I will no longer use the leader unless there is a trap I need to get through. The current cable I am running is so limber I no longer need a trap leader.

A leader by my definition is a 3' cable that attaches to the cable then the cutter to the leader. The leader is no core and very flexible to negotiate traps with ease.


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

SewerRatz said:


> The only time I run a leader on my 3/4" cable is when it is brand new, or I need to go through a trap. After 5 or 6 roddings I will no longer use the leader unless there is a trap I need to get through. The current cable I am running is so limber I no longer need a trap leader.
> 
> *A leader by my definition is a 3' cable that attaches to the cable then the cutter to the leader. The leader is no core and very flexible to negotiate traps with ease.*




What he said^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


I always run one. 2' on my .55 cable and a 1' on my 1.25" Eel cable.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> Leader?? Is that a short cable infront of the head?? More info please???!!!


SewerRatz nailed it exactly. I looked but couldnt find a justifiable pic to upload. They surely make rodding and making the turns alot easier and are worth every penny. Once you use one you won't want to be without it. $27 bucks for the Mytana LE151 leader I use and have had it 3.5 years and never a problem with it...


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