# Kitchen sink drain that I can't unclog



## 6th Density (Nov 29, 2010)

How often do you guys run across a kitchen sink drain that you can't unclog with conventional power rodding?

I've hit 2 in the last 3 months. One I was able to fix because it was an off-grade house. So I crawled under it to check the drain lines after I failed in my attempts to unclog it. Sure enough I found about a 15 foot long belly in the the pipe because the plastic strapping had failed. Even with 5 feet of head pressure, the pipe wouldn't drain at all. I'm sure the grease in the system didn't help as you'd assume it would float to the top of each end of the belly in the pipe system, making it even more resistant to stay clogged.

The second service call however was for a house on a slab. A GC wanted to fix it up and flip it. I spent almost 2 hours rodding that system, kept gumming up my heads with grease. I told the GC that he could either get the line jetted or he could run a new line (offset out the exterior wall which needed replacing anyways) to the septic tank which was only about 20 feet away.

My question being is that do you guys run across the same issue with kitchen sink lines, where the only fix is to jet it clean. As I'm thinking about buying a small one just for kitchen sinks.

Any help appreciated.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

If the line has been stopped up for a long time, it becomes like a line full of basically jello. When using a cable you have feed it in and rapidly pull the cable back out a few feet at a time. Usually with these kinds of stoppages a jetter makes quicker work of it.


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

Gorlitz makes a small grease spring for their GO50 it looks like a mini spring retriever. If possible run from a vent with the sink full of water and have a partner watch for the water to bob up and down, this is the end of the grease stoppage, spin there and slowly come back.

*I have also had some success with a blow bag from the vent. ONLY IF you ran all the ay to the main and can cap off the kitchen line. Ferncos don't count on this one. *I had a 1 1/2 pvc cap just for this. 

I have also tied small strips of towel to my cable to act as a squeegee, this seems to work better if you spin it in and pull it out dead fast as you can. 

Just my .02.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

I use the sectional cable so I've never had a kitchen line I couldn't open....but I've camerad those trouble drains and discovered that a cable doesn't clean very well. I believe if you can't open a washing machine or kitchen line within 30 minutes, something is either broke or installed wrong.


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

gear junkie said:


> I use the sectional cable so I've never had a kitchen line I couldn't open....but I've camerad those trouble drains and discovered that a cable doesn't clean very well. I believe if you can't open a washing machine or kitchen line within 30 minutes, something is either broke or installed wrong.



There are many grease/pulp stoppages that you run right through. Mostly what I see is K/S and L/L that combo together and run across the house. This was very popular in Tucson in the 70's. Once you get the "blockage" gone the line is fine. A camera does pop most grease stoppages. :laughing:

The key is knowing when you have this kind of stoppage and when something is wrong.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

When I first went into service plumbing I was green. I had approximately (5) years of new construction under my belt by then, but zero experience in service. My first attempts at drain cleaning were adventures.....:laughing:

Having said this, I would ask, what machine/cable/auger heads are you using 6th Density? 

And in response to your question, the answer is 'yes'; even veteran drain cleaning men encounter issues that test their experience. For example, there may be an underground 'Tee' fitting that presents the obvious problem; or, can't easily locate a c.o.; or unbeknownst to the drain cleaner, the cast iron line is collapsed or crushed downstream.

Once I got my cable hung up in a septic tank....... when I had asked my customer (on phone) if he had sewers or a septic tank, he told me sewer. Like an idiot, I took what he told me as gospel truth without verifying it. I learned a lesson, always verify when customer says he has sewers......:yes:


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

All good information above. All lines are repairable and so long as there isn't a physical problem with the line, they're all openable with a cable or jetter given enough time and the proper equipment.

The last kitchen sink/laundry line that I coudln't open required a substantial hole in the customer's living room floor. It works now!:thumbsup:





Paul


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## hellenicsnowman (Nov 15, 2012)

I had 1 at a dental office on slab, they were pouring the denture compound down the sink and plastered there drain closed after some time I told them thery were out if luck


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

6th Density said:


> How often do you guys run across a kitchen sink drain that you can't unclog with conventional power rodding?


If it's no bigger than two inch pipe, never had one that I couldn't get, had some take longer, but never had one that I couldn't unstop.

I've had a couple that were two inch pipe in the wall that up sized to three inch under the floor and that needed some special attention that a 3/8" cable wouldn't correct.

When in a pinch, I've capped lines and used a pressure bag. Down here it's common to rod them from the vent and leave the sink bowls holding full of water.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

ChrisConnor said:


> If it's no bigger than two inch pipe, never had one that I couldn't get, had some take longer, but never had one that I couldn't unstop.
> 
> I've had a couple that were two inch pipe in the wall that up sized to three inch under the floor and that needed some special attention that a 3/8" cable wouldn't correct.
> 
> When in a pinch, I've capped lines and used a pressure bag. *Down here it's common to rod them from the vent and leave the sink bowls holding full of water*.


 






I love to do that with greasy kitchen sink stoppages. If there is no wall c.o. I'll get on the roof. I don't like bringing back my cable with black sludge on it under the customer's kitchen sink. Also, when you go inside and see the sink empty, you know you're getting somewhere.....:thumbsup:


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Just put your ear to the vent and you can hear the water go down.


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## saysflushable (Jun 15, 2009)

as long as the system was intact with no backward fittings and I could get my cable through I was able to get all kitchen drains open. even easier when I started using a k50. a couple galvanived tub drains and galvanived lav drains I just could not get through or open.

Oh crud now I'll get 10 in a row that I won't be able to open:laughing:


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## Fullmetal Frank (Jul 11, 2012)

Tommy plumber said:


> When I first went into service plumbing I was green. I had approximately (5) years of new construction under my belt by then, but zero experience in service. My first attempts at drain cleaning were adventures.....:laughing:
> 
> Having said this, I would ask, what machine/cable/auger heads are you using 6th Density?
> 
> ...


4" double combos are the bane of my drain cleaning career, especially when some numbskull didn't add a cleanout behind it.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Here are some 4" doubles for you. Lol.


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## 6th Density (Nov 29, 2010)

Tommy plumber said:


> When I first went into service plumbing I was green. I had approximately (5) years of new construction under my belt by then, but zero experience in service. My first attempts at drain cleaning were adventures.....:laughing:
> 
> Having said this, I would ask, what machine/cable/auger heads are you using 6th Density?
> 
> ...



Started out with the K-45 auto feed, with 3/8" cable and spear head. Ended up with the spartan 100. The GC had already opened up the exterior wall and cut into the trap arm. I probably should have just capped the trap arm off and gone through the VTR. That way I could have added way more head pressure with a water hose and not have to worry about the water dumping into the wall. Still learning though. Thank all, for all the advice.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

I came across a sewer line yesterday that kicked my butt. 3" pvc, I ran the line twice with blades, wrapped and tied towel tighly and swabbed the line twice. Still no go so line traced it into the street and paced it off at apprx 70' so I know I'm in the main. Towel came back clean, seems like I'm not going far enough but pretty much have to be. Told him I recomend jetter and may have to camera the line. Sewer main is in center of very busy street.

Edit: I rodded this same drain (again on Thanksgiving) 2 years ago with no problems. Drain handles hose running and 2 tubs so blow bag not an option.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

On a different drain call over the weekend my auger went into the mud at alley turn downs in alley. Gonna be a busy week I can already tell.


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## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

our problem drains are 4 cast iron short sweep dbl y or combo. However those are cleared by discovering the location of a cleanout.


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## Rotorooter1277 (Jul 8, 2012)

Any line that is packed with grease and has nothing else directly tying in is best cleaned with a cable back and forth a few times and then a flush bag. Works everytime and gets you out of the job in a short amount of time. Trying to clear a line like that with just cable is like sticking your finger in sand. After you go through it the clog closes right behind you


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## yoyoer (Nov 28, 2012)

For me it was a 70ft line serving a wc in a medical office. Years of people flushing paper towels made it impossible to auger because the head would go through it but it would stay blocked. Ended up opening the line in the parade after hours lets say it was messy.

Often in commercial restaurants ketchup caps will get stuck in the lines and those are always a pita.


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