# "Toilet Tink"



## HSI (Jun 3, 2011)

When you pull and reset a toilet or rebuild a tank and the bowl or tank makes the famous sound we all hate "TINK" and you see the nice new crack appear what is the proper way in your opinion to handle it? Do you eat the cost of a new toilet plus install? Is this a cost that the customer is expected to pay? Should a disclaimer be written on an invoice stating "not responsible for any damage" and signed before work starts?
I sure hate to pay money out of my pocket when trying to solve a problem for a customer.
your thoughts would be greatly appriciated.
Thanks
Ron


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## ranman (Jan 24, 2010)

i believe you broke it you replace it? if its a old toilet inspect it for cracks first, 
I clean them first looking for cracks.


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

How about when its a new install, and the materials were provided by the GC?. 

They made the profit on the materials..................... Cut the plumber right out. [That is part of the reason you need to earn a profit on materials, isn't it?]


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## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

RealLivePlumber said:


> How about when its a new install, and the materials were provided by the GC?.
> 
> They made the profit on the materials..................... Cut the plumber right out. [That is part of the reason you need to earn a profit on materials, isn't it?]


Those toilets always take a little longer to install, for some strange reason:whistling2:


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## revenge (Jun 30, 2011)

If we purchase it we eat the lost if gc buys it idk what happpened it came cracked in the box didn't notice tilll after I put it on and toilets fixtures materials etc no warranty what so ever if not bought by us


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

It's not a perfect world. Eat it and move on.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

use plastic flanges with plastic tee bolts, no more tink


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## 100 Watt (Aug 11, 2011)

GREENPLUM said:


> use plastic flanges with plastic tee bolts, no more tink


Still doesn't fix the tank cracking. That's where most of my cracks happen. Honestly maybe a couple a year, but it's always a biscuit colored Kohler Memoir or something else nobody in town stocks. Murphy's law I suppose.

I wish they would all go back to 3 bolt tanks. You gotta tighten the 2 bolt tanks up alot for them not to rock and leak. We use a stubby ratchet and gently tighten using just our fingers on the handle.We've all heard the "tink" and it sucks. 

Good luck


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## beachplumber (Feb 7, 2010)

Don,t tighten so much.
I haven,t had this problem with any toilets.
If u broke it during improper install, eat it and learn not so tight.

U coulfd still charge for original call, but i would probaly waive all fees to try an save face with customer


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## revenge (Jun 30, 2011)

Change to hollowed out nut driver u will stop cracking them guareteed


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

beachplumber said:


> Don,t tighten so much.
> I haven,t had this problem with any toilets.
> If u broke it during improper install, eat it and learn not so tight.
> 
> U coulfd still charge for original call, but i would probaly waive all fees to try an save face with customer


There is a fine line between over tightening and under tightening a tank to bowl connection.

I've set a lot over the years, and even I only recognize the 'tink' after it's too late.

It happens. And as noted, usually when a replacement for the finish is back ordered or out of stock.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Double-nut the tank bolts. 

Add a daub or squirt of silicone on the underside of the black washer, then tighten the first nut under the tank. Then install the tank. Then tighten the second nut.


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## bartnc37 (Feb 24, 2009)

Knock on porcelain, I haven't popped one in years but I always use the same stubby ratchet and have a pretty good feel for when enough is enough. I did pop one with water temp though. I set the tank and bowl on the stoop while I changed the water heater. It was hotter than heck and the sun was beating down on the w.c. Got done with setting and filling the W.H. and set the new toilet rather quickly and kicked on the water. Pop, the side of the tank split from the top about halfway down. The place was on a well and I guess the 50 degree ground water and highly sun heated china didn't agree with each other.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

Thats what I like about Gerber commodes, lots of room between tank and bowl makes it easy to double nut. Gerbers also have plastic nuts that can be tighted up snug by hand.


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## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

On some toilets Ive put a little lube on the tank to bowl gasket. This way there's not as much tension needed to tighten her down.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Speaking of lubing the gasket...I always put a light coat of pipe dope on the gasket, a little more if it's an existing toilet I'm repairing.


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## dynomite05 (Jul 2, 2011)

Great suggestions! Thanks


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Speaking of lubing the gasket...I always put a light coat of pipe dope on the gasket, a little more if it's an existing toilet I'm repairing.


Really? Rectorseal?


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## Plumbersteve (Jan 25, 2011)

how much torque do you put on those tank bolts? 60ft/lbs? There is no need for that. On a beveled bowl, only tighten until the china kisses. You can't get any tighter than that anyway. I love the new kohler brackets. fewer holes=fewer leaks. Also, they make a kit for getting a solid tank set on those things. Kinda goofy, but if you tighten properly, it doesn't really rock that much anyway. And even if it does, it isn't because it's loose and leak prone. I haven't overtightened but once, recently, I misjudged the length of the base of a CF toilet. It was seriously like half and inch shorter than the wellworths that I was used too. So, when I began to set it down on the front lip and lay it back, I basically dropped it that last half inch. DOH! Fortunately, the HO had bought a cheapo depot model so I just ran out and bought a new one. Then, he complained about the cost, which I kept at basic toilet install. Kindof a jerk. Anyway...don't over tighten


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

DesertOkie said:


> Really? Rectorseal?


Anything that helps lube up the tank to bowl gasket and keeps it from pulling to one side or pinching is a good idea.

I've been known to hawk a lung oyster on the gasket during the cold and flue season. If I can't come up with a lung oyster I'll use a thick silicone based Plumbers grease.


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## greenscoutII (Aug 27, 2008)

Tommy plumber said:


> Double-nut the tank bolts.
> 
> Add a daub or squirt of silicone on the underside of the black washer, then tighten the first nut under the tank. Then install the tank. Then tighten the second nut.


That's a great idea. Never even thought of it. I'll try this on the next W/C I set....:thumbup:


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

DesertOkie said:


> Really? Rectorseal?


Just cause I'm from TX don't mean I use Rectumseal...Hadn't used that for years.


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

Widdershins said:


> Anything that helps lube up the tank to bowl gasket and keeps it from pulling to one side or pinching is a good idea.
> 
> I've been known to hawk a lung oyster on the gasket during the cold and flue season. If I can't come up with a lung oyster I'll use a thick silicone based Plumbers grease.


That's what I'm talking about Shins

Making your mark!


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## sikxsevn (Jun 23, 2009)

Tommy plumber said:


> Double-nut the tank bolts.
> 
> Add a daub or squirt of silicone on the underside of the black washer, then tighten the first nut under the tank. Then install the tank. Then tighten the second nut.


This. You can also put a dab of silicone in between the tank a bowl. Not much, just enough to make it quit rocking. In lieu of silicone, one can also use those soft flexible white closet shims, they work well, and if you are careful about where you put them, you won't see them

Tightening 2 bolt tanks is always nerve-wracking for me, I've gotten the 'tink' a few times myself


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Plumberman said:


> That's what I'm talking about Shins
> 
> Making your mark!


*shrugs*

A fellers gotta do what a fellers gotta do.:laughing:


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

Widdershins said:


> *shrugs*
> 
> A fellers gotta do what a fellers gotta do.:laughing:


Lol


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## greenscoutII (Aug 27, 2008)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Just cause I'm from TX don't mean I use Rectumseal...Hadn't used that for years.


Yeah, I don't care for Rectumseal either... MegaLock is my goo of choice...


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

^^^^^

And to think people worry about contracting infectious diseases from PUBLIC toilets!

If they only knew of the inorganic toxic goo nestled just inches from them when they sit on a throne installed by nosferatu over here....

SHEESH!!!

:LAUGHING:


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## Greenguy (Jan 22, 2011)

After installing a replacement toilet do you do a 'live' test to crissen the new unit?


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

Greenguy said:


> After installing a replacement toilet do you do a 'live' test to crissen the new unit?


Not in a customers house...

But I've been known to drop the "first" deuce or two in a freshly set commercial toilet...


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

But of course! I installed a new toilet for the office ladies in a Western Museum downtown and asked which of them would like to christen the new toilet...no takers. At least while I was there anyway...LOL


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## plumber666 (Sep 19, 2010)

Started in the trade doing apartments with a total psycho journeyman. Man he was FAST! Remember one of my first times doing fixtures and he said, "Every time I open up one of these boxes and my hand touches that cold porcelain, I gotta piss. If I put in 20 toilets in a day, I'll piss 20 times!"


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

U666A said:


> If they only knew of the inorganic toxic goo nestled just inches from them when they sit on a throne installed by nosferatu over here....


 My lung oysters are organic. 

They're also Free Range and pesticide and growth hormone free.:yes:


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## c-note (Aug 12, 2011)

channel lock makes a great nut runner for that, or use a small crecent wrench so you can feel the pressure better.


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## sikxsevn (Jun 23, 2009)

c-note said:


> channel lock makes a great nut runner for that, or use a small crecent wrench so you can feel the pressure better.


In that regard, I use a deep socket and a tiny little 4" ratchet


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

Plumberman said:


> Not in a customers house...
> 
> But I've been known to drop the "first" deuce or two in a freshly set commercial toilet...


 
We always used to do the same thing in commercial. The GC wouldn't let anyone use the WCs because he didn't want them damaged. This was a pretty standard practice from job to job. He would have us turn the water off to them and lock the doors. Well, we had a key because after all it was plumbing and knew where the shut offs were. We had our own executive bathrooms for a few months.


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## suzie (Sep 1, 2010)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Speaking of lubing the gasket...I always put a light coat of pipe dope on the gasket, a little more if it's an existing toilet I'm repairing.


 A former foreman of mine told me this trick


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## mccmech (Jul 6, 2011)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Speaking of lubing the gasket...I always put a light coat of pipe dope on the gasket, a little more if it's an existing toilet I'm repairing.


Thank you. I too always pipe dope the gasket. :thumbup:


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## cityplumbing (Jun 12, 2010)

I like to push down with my hand on top of the tank and make up my nut until it's nice and snug then tighten as needed with a 4" adjustable....


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## mccmech (Jul 6, 2011)

Greenguy said:


> After installing a replacement toilet do you do a 'live' test to crissen the new unit?


Regardless of replacement or new install in a brand new house, I christen every last one. They may have a new home or a new toilet, but they will NEVER be able to say they were the 1st to use the thing. Just a stupid quirk of mine I guess.


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Just cause I'm from TX don't mean I use Rectumseal...Hadn't used that for years.


Your lucky the supply house here has yellow recto and yellow rector or the real small tube of blue. If I had my way we we have a lot of different items, all I can get is c-flux, I can't stand the stuff. But if is not in their book it doesn't exist.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

DesertOkie said:


> Your lucky the supply house here has yellow recto and yellow rector or the real small tube of blue. If I had my way we we have a lot of different items, all I can get is c-flux, I can't stand the stuff. But if is not in their book it doesn't exist.


Dam that sucks. Why not order from a diff house?? I use T+2 dope it has teflon in it and no corrode flux. My old master uses that yellow crap on gas pipe. I hate it


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