# condensate disposal (from tankless)



## klempner (Mar 4, 2011)

regarding condensate disposal from tankless WH, code says defer to manufacturer instructions. IFGC 307.2. manufacturer invariably says defer to administrative authority. administrative authority invariably says defer to manufacturer instructions. seems like unofficially, usually, ok to drain to pvc.


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

We just run a hose over to a floor drain. 


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## dhal22 (Jul 30, 2010)

Cpvc/pvc line to a floor drain or condensate pump. Or discharge to outside with a neutralizer as an option.


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

In Illinois any relief or drain from a potable device must be received by a trapped and vented appurtenance via a fixed air gap, inside the structure.

AC condensation must either dump into a properly vented and trapped drain inside the structure via a fixed air gap or dump to the exterior on the ground as long as when to the exterior does not cause a slipping hazard.


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

GAN said:


> In Illinois any relief or drain from a potable device must be received by a trapped and vented appurtenance via a fixed air gap, inside the structure.
> 
> AC condensation must either dump into a properly vented and trapped drain inside the structure via a fixed air gap or dump to the exterior on the ground as long as when to the exterior does not cause a slipping hazard.




I can understand the air gap for a relief valve, but my code for condensate from fuel appliances only kicks in when it get introduced to plumbing. In fact in our gas modifications to NFPA 54, condensate has been deleted from the code. Most times a hole gets drilled in the floor or pipe to a sump or outdoor. I know your going to say what if there is a failure in the heat exchanger and "could" although highly unlikely have a cross connection. My jurisdiction kicks in when it gets introduced to plumbing with a neutralizer and air gap or break.


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## loyale93 (Mar 6, 2017)

The Dane said:


> We just run a hose over to a floor drain.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This. In MA, a hose or PVC is perfectly acceptable.


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

plumbdrum said:


> I can understand the air gap for a relief valve, but my code for condensate from fuel appliances only kicks in when it get introduced to plumbing. In fact in our gas modifications to NFPA 54, condensate has been deleted from the code. Most times a hole gets drilled in the floor or pipe to a sump or outdoor. I know your going to say what if there is a failure in the heat exchanger and "could" although highly unlikely have a cross connection. My jurisdiction kicks in when it gets introduced to plumbing with a neutralizer and air gap or break.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I will take a step back. If the tank-less has a double wall exchanger it's much safer and I agree a fixed air gap not really critical.

Not so much heat exchanger failure, but on a furnace AC condensation drain, with no fixed air gap or drilled into a FD grate, contamination with bacterial growth back up the AC drain and into the air exchanger, then dispersed around the home,

Legionella & HVAC systems >>>> https://www.osha.gov/dts/osta/otm/legionnaires/hvac.html


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

GAN said:


> I will take a step back. If the tank-less has a double wall exchanger it's much safer and I agree a fixed air gap not really critical.
> 
> Not so much heat exchanger failure, but on a furnace AC condensation drain, with no fixed air gap or drilled into a FD grate, contamination with bacterial growth back up the AC drain and into the air exchanger, then dispersed around the home,
> 
> Legionella & HVAC systems >>>> https://www.osha.gov/dts/osta/otm/legionnaires/hvac.html




They are talking about humidifiers for the most part, a condensate drain from a fuel burning category 4 appliance would not have this problem, besides if it did back up and get into a cracked heat exchanger , legionnaires disease is the least of your worries.


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## hanzkunzel (Feb 24, 2017)

When it comes to the Tankless Condensate drainage I stick with PVC as well. You can put a Neutralizer and drop in copper afterwards but do not use copper or other metals with it as it'll eat through it. You can drop into a metal drain if there is other stuff dumping into it at a somewhat regular basis like a laundry drain or floor drain. If you have an option to pop it outside that is definitely the best. My favorite deal on Tankless units is to install a Tankless pan under the unit. Then just dump everything into it and pop one 1in PVC drain out of the building. Then you don't have to worry about a mess ever especially when performing flushes and filter cleanings.


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## klempner (Mar 4, 2011)

"or dump to the exterior on the ground as long as when to the exterior does not cause a slipping hazard."

so no harm to plants, I presume?


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