# A job we are doing



## Plumberman911 (Dec 23, 2012)




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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

What is the reason behind the two San tees in picture two? Could be I'm missing something looking at the pics from a phone.


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## Plumberman911 (Dec 23, 2012)

No you saw it. The footin comes so far in and the toilet is against out side wall there is a lot of stuff to catch right away. First San tee is to catch the toilet out I the top of first tee turned a 90 ran the trunk line. Second tee one under wall is to vent the toilet. On that trunk I have a mop sink and kitchen. Kitchen is between restrooms but the mop sink is in the middle of restroom. So I vented every fixture. It's kinda weird but at the start was tight.


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## Plumberman911 (Dec 23, 2012)

I'm going over some prints for a dollar general. They want K copper under the slab. Omg. And cast iron under the slab. I've never done CI like that. Just repair. No no hubs under the slab. Seal tites suck to do that many joints


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## Gettinit (May 9, 2012)

Plumberman911 said:


> I'm going over some prints for a dollar general. They want K copper under the slab. Omg. And cast iron under the slab. I've never done CI like that. Just repair. No no hubs under the slab. Seal tites suck to do that many joints


Piece of cake with the right tools. They make they for straight connections and offsets. Wrap the chains and pull them together.


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## Plumberman911 (Dec 23, 2012)

Ill have to check it out. I've done a little no hub work above the floor but not below. Been spoiled with pvc


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## phishfood (Nov 18, 2012)

What are the two tees stacked in picture 5 & 6?


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

phishfood said:


> What are the two tees stacked in picture 5 & 6?



I'm going to guess kitchen sink? 

Get you a lead maul for the hubbed cast, huge pry bar, and come along.


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## Plumberman911 (Dec 23, 2012)

Break room sink. There is suppose to be three. One for clean out. But my jman forgot. Showed back up. Hvac guy cut out one of my vents to run his duct work. When he leaves I'm going to drill through his duct and run my pipe back. Lol. Jk


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

Smash his duct out of the way. 

Then smash him when he shows up to reinstall it. 

Fuggin tin knockers..............


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## Tim`s Plumbing (Jan 17, 2012)

Plumberman911 said:


> I'm going over some prints for a dollar general. They want K copper under the slab. Omg. And cast iron under the slab. I've never done CI like that. Just repair. No no hubs under the slab. Seal tites suck to do that many joints


 Keep the push rubbers warm and use lot`s of lube and you can push it in with a shovel.


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

Tim`s Plumbing said:


> Keep the push rubbers warm and use lot`s of lube and you can push it in with a shovel.



That could be misunderstood by a casual observer. :laughing:


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Plumberman911 said:


> I'm going over some prints for a dollar general. They want K copper under the slab. Omg. And cast iron under the slab. I've never done CI like that. Just repair. No no hubs under the slab. Seal tites suck to do that many joints


Why would they want cast iron underground to give it a chance to rotten away??


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## Rando (Dec 31, 2012)

Plumberman911 said:


> I'm going over some prints for a dollar general. They want K copper under the slab. Omg. And cast iron under the slab. I've never done CI like that. Just repair. No no hubs under the slab. Seal tites suck to do that many joints


 
Not that bad, 
Measure carefully, peen the sharp edges, keep the gaskets warm if you can.
Find a lead hammer and a set of pullers.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

Plumberman911 said:


> I'm going over some prints for a dollar general. They want K copper under the slab. Omg. And cast iron under the slab. I've never done CI like that. Just repair. No no hubs under the slab. Seal tites suck to do that many joints


 
dollar gen around here use PVC, and isnt all rolled copper type k :whistling2:


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## justme (Jul 4, 2012)

when we purchase soft copper here in the Dallas area it is type L . You have to specifically ask for type k and the last time I had to they of course had to order it in.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Plumberman911 said:


> No you saw it. The footin comes so far in and the toilet is against out side wall there is a lot of stuff to catch right away. First San tee is to catch the toilet out I the top of first tee turned a 90 ran the trunk line. Second tee one under wall is to vent the toilet. On that trunk I have a mop sink and kitchen. Kitchen is between restrooms but the mop sink is in the middle of restroom. So I vented every fixture. It's kinda weird but at the start was tight.


Why didn't you leave it full size so you could have a full 3" C/O on the toilet vent?

I would have run the vent up in 3" and then installed a 3" C/O tee a foot above the floor with the 3x2 bushing in the top of the tee.


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## germanplumber (Sep 13, 2011)

Are you allowed to use short pattern 90's for drains

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Plumbing Zone


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## Plumberman911 (Dec 23, 2012)

germanplumber said:


> Are you allowed to use short pattern 90's for drains
> 
> Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Plumbing Zone


On 11/2 and 2". The 3" is long turns. Horizontal to vertical we can do short.


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## Plumberman911 (Dec 23, 2012)

Widdershins said:


> Why didn't you leave it full size so you could have a full 3" C/O on the toilet vent?
> 
> I would have run the vent up in 3" and then installed a 3" C/O tee a foot above the floor with the 3x2 bushing in the top of the tee.


I didn't think about it I will change it. Thanks


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## Plumberman911 (Dec 23, 2012)

I got a hold of the GC on dollar general. I can use what city and code allows. So worsbo and PVC. He said he is going to check into why it is spected CI


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## germanplumber (Sep 13, 2011)

Plumberman911 said:


> On 11/2 and 2". The 3" is long turns. Horizontal to vertical we can do short.


So you can go vertical to horizontal on a 2" drain without using a long sweep. That's crazy.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Plumbing Zone


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## love2surf927 (Dec 22, 2011)

germanplumber said:


> So you can go vertical to horizontal on a 2" drain without using a long sweep. That's crazy.
> 
> Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Plumbing Zone


Horizontal to vertical can be 1/4 bend, vertical to horizontal should be l/t.


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## bct p&h (Jan 19, 2013)

Gettinit said:


> Piece of cake with the right tools. They make they for straight connections and offsets. Wrap the chains and pull them together.


I wouldn't waste time with chains unless you're doing 10" and above.

If the gaskets are warm and you line it up straight it should pop together pretty easily by hand or a couple bars. On cut pipe you can either grind down the lip or wrap duct tape around the end so the end of the tape just covers the sharp lip. Just have to be careful not to cover any of the inside of the pipe for obvious reasons.

I've done more sv undergrounds than pvc. I actually prefer sv over pvc. If you need to change something just pop it apart, no wasted fittings. If you need to adjust the roll of a wye you can do it anytime you want. The biggest I've done is 12" and we had a small backhoe pushing it together for us. The worst part was packing and pouring it. Had to use the entire pot on each joint.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

germanplumber said:


> So you can go vertical to horizontal on a 2" drain without using a long sweep. That's crazy.
> 
> Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Plumbing Zone


Vertical to horizontal doesn't need a long sweep. You telling me you don't use San Tee's to do the exact same thing?


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

Will said:


> Vertical to horizontal doesn't need a long sweep. You telling me you don't use San Tee's to do the exact same thing?


My Dyslexia just kicked in, I read the commit wrong....


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