# What valve is this



## love2surf927 (Dec 22, 2011)

I do strictly residential service for the most part. I have a customer in a CPA office that has this Sloan valve. He says the handle is sticking. Can anyone help identify which valve this is, is it a royal and is there a specific repair kit to get? Any thing else I should know before I get into this?


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## justme (Jul 4, 2012)

love2surf927 said:


> I do strictly residential service for the most part. I have a customer in a CPA office that has this Sloan valve. He says the handle is sticking. Can anyone help identify which valve this is, is it a royal and is there a specific repair kit to get? Any thing else I should know before I get into this?


post a pic:laughing:


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

Is the handle actually sticking? Handle replacement = 1 minute job. Don't even have to turn the stop off.

Is the valve sticking? Take it apart and chances are clean the pilot hole in the diaphragm... 4 minutes if the stop shuts off.


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## love2surf927 (Dec 22, 2011)

justme said:


> post a pic:laughing:


I always do that! Such a dumba$$! Alright here goes.... Thanks


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## love2surf927 (Dec 22, 2011)

ILPlumber said:


> Is the handle actually sticking? Handle replacement = 1 minute job. Don't even have to turn the stop off.
> 
> Is the valve sticking? Take it apart and chances are clean the pilot hole in the diaphragm... 4 minutes if the stop shuts off.


I'm not sure I haven't been out yet, he says it does stick and will flood the bathroom. Again I have no experience with these valves thanks for your help. I will be doing this job on Sunday and no suppliers will be open so I'd like to have what I need, plus it's kind of far from home base so don't want to come back. Thanks


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

Looks like a 186

Grab a diaphragm kit. 

Throw it in and get down the road.


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## Plumber (Jan 18, 2009)

A CPA, you say? Tax season, is it? Buy a whole new valve and slap it in.


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

Plumber said:


> A CPA, you say? Tax season, is it? Buy a whole new valve and slap it in.


 
Because that would be un-ethical.

Un-ethical people struggle for employment....


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

A regular one gallon flush Sloan rebuild kit for a urinal is all you need. Make sure the kit comes with the diaphragm, handle kit, vacuum breaker, and new o-ring for the tube between the valve and diaphragm. After you turn the valve off make sure you take off the pressure before trying to remove the top canopy. If you can, get a new spud and gasket too just in case. One thing guaranteed to happen is the part you don't bring will end up leaking after you rebuild it. I wouldn't suggest just cleaning out the diaphragm unless it has been repaired very recently. It is always a good practice to rebuild the entire valve whenever you work on these considering how much abuse they typically endure and especially the vacuum breaker being that is what protects the potable water. Lastly, make sure you adjust the valve to where the water comes out just enough so it's not too forceful when flushed. Also, do not lubricate any of the gaskets or o-ring. They tend to kink when you do.


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## love2surf927 (Dec 22, 2011)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> A regular one gallon flush Sloan rebuild kit for a urinal is all you need. Make sure the kit comes with the diaphragm, handle kit, vacuum breaker, and new o-ring for the tube between the valve and diaphragm. After you turn the valve off make sure you take off the pressure before trying to remove the top canopy. If you can get a new spud and gasket too just in case. One thing guaranteed to happen is the part you don't bring will end up leaking after you rebuild it. I wouldn't suggest just cleaning out the diaphragm unless it has been repaired very recently. It is always a good practice to rebuild the entire valve whenever you work on these considering how much abuse they typically endure and especially the vacuum breaker being that is what protects the potable water. Lastly, make sure you adjust the valve to where the water comes out just enough so it's not too forceful when flushed. Also, do not lubricate any of the gaskets or o-ring. They tend to kink when you do.


Thanks so much, very informative, much appreciated


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## Adamche (Feb 10, 2012)

...


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

love2surf927 said:


> Thanks so much, very informative, much appreciated


You're quite welcome. After you work on this one you'll be a pro. They are fairly straight forward. Good money in them, too. One thing to watch out for if your area is prone to high pressure: these will not work properly if you have too much pressure, as in 80 psi or above. I learned that the hard way after rebuilding one and messing with the handle numerous times before realizing it was too high of pressure that kept it from flushing properly. I installed a pressure reducing valve and that fixed it. Conversely, too low of pressure can also keep it from working right. These valves work completely off of pressure and it has to be within the range of 40 to 80psi to function properly.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Clean the pilot hole? Really? Change the diaphragm! Anyone who does this is asking for trouble.

Anytime you open a Sloan/Zurn valve...Do yourself a favor, change all the parts and throw away the paper friction ring for the vacuum breaker. Don't over tighten the vacuum breaker nut or the top cap.

Buy all the parts separately, don't fall for the trap of buying "drop-in" kits.


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Clean the pilot hole? Really? Change the diaphragm! Anyone who does this is asking for trouble.
> 
> Anytime you open a Sloan/Zurn valve...Do yourself a favor, change all the parts and throw away the paper friction ring for the vacuum breaker. Don't over tighten the vacuum breaker nut or the top cap.
> 
> Buy all the parts separately, don't fall for the trap of buying "drop-in" kits.



And do not use the sloan style with the grey plastic ring around the top of the diaphragm(grainger).


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## MDPlumber1977 (Mar 4, 2013)

Looks like a Sloan Regal 186. I cant tell based on the picture but prior to 1994 urinals often used 1.5 GPF and are still repaired with those parts and valves to this day. If you install a 1.0 on a fixture that requires 1.5 your flush may be less than impressive. Vice Versa, if you install a 1.5 on a 1.0 you will probably need a mop. To CYA you might wanna take a 1.0 and 1.5 rebuild kit. On the flip side, a brand new Sloan 186 will run you less then a hundred bucks cost if your customer would be interested in a straight replacement.


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## Plumber (Jan 18, 2009)

ILPlumber said:


> Because that would be un-ethical.
> 
> Un-ethical people struggle for employment....


 Look closely at the pics and you'll see scratches and corrosion. This is in a professional office and I'm sure they like to make a great impression.

A whole new valve costs $150.00 and labor takes the one hour minimum.

A rebuild kit is 30.00 and labor takes the one hour minimum.

Ask the CPA which is the better value.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Clean the pilot hole? Really? Change the diaphragm! Anyone who does this is asking for trouble.
> 
> Anytime you open a Sloan/Zurn valve...Do yourself a favor, change all the parts and throw away the paper friction ring for the vacuum breaker. Don't over tighten the vacuum breaker nut or the top cap.
> 
> Buy all the parts separately, don't fall for the trap of buying "drop-in" kits.


Agreed except that the Sloan rebuild kits I get come with all the parts. And come with the solid black diaphragm. No need to get separate parts. It used to be that way where you had to get all separate parts but no longer. At least not where I get mine. And I have had no trouble whatsoever. I think the supply house I use put their own kit together. Its a local place.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Plumber said:


> Look closely at the pics and you'll see scratches and corrosion. This is in a professional office and I'm sure they like to make a great impression.
> 
> A whole new valve costs $150.00
> 
> ...


Wow, $150??!! The one I bought the other day was $77. It was a Zurn. Worked great.


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## Plumber (Jan 18, 2009)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> Wow, $150??!! The one I bought the other day was $77. It was a Zurn. Worked great.


You don't do price mark-ups?


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Plumber said:


> Look closely at the pics and you'll see scratches and corrosion. This is in a professional office and I'm sure they like to make a great impression.
> 
> A whole new valve costs $150.00 and labor takes the one hour minimum.
> .


One hour? Are you including drive time? I am not calling you out but that sounds a little excessive. It should take about ten to fifteen minutes for a rebuild assuming it goes smoothly.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> Agreed except that the Sloan rebuild kits I get come with all the parts. And come with the solid black diaphragm. No need to get separate parts. It used to be that way where you had to get all separate parts but no longer. At least not where I get mine. And I have had no trouble whatsoever. I think the supply house I use put their own kit together. Its a local place.


Why pay the extra mark-up? All diaphragms are the same...All handle rubbers are the same...All caps are the same...All o-rings are the same, All vacuum breakers are the same...

You see where I'm going? I won't spend 30-40 bucks for a drop-in kit when i can buy the parts separately for about 15 bucks...I still charge as if I'm buying the drop-in kit. VERY, VERY rarely does the tube need changing...I know, I know if you unscrew the diaphragm you'll get black on your hands...I guess it better to throw in a drop-in kit.


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## Adamche (Feb 10, 2012)

...


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## Plumber (Jan 18, 2009)

love2surf927 said:


> I always do that! Such a dumba$$! Alright here goes.... Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Do as you see fit, but these are old, ugly valves in a commercial office. At least give him the option of new ones.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Why pay the extra mark-up? All diaphragms are the same...All handle rubbers are the same...All caps are the same...All o-rings are the same, All vacuum breakers are the same...
> 
> You see where I'm going? I won't spend 30-40 bucks for a drop-in kit when i can buy the parts separately for about 15 bucks...I still charge as if I'm buying the drop-in kit. VERY, VERY rarely does the tube need changing...I know, I know if you unscrew the diaphragm you'll get black on your hands...I guess it better to throw in a drop-in kit.


I guess anytime I have bought one it was like you said, $30, but came with all the parts. It was more expensive the other way here in Houston. Anyhow, I think we're basically saying the same thing.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Plumber said:


> You don't do price mark-ups?


I gotcha. I thought you meant your cost. Yes, the company I work for definitely marked it up. We charge $600 for a full replacement and I think around $300 for a rebuild.


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## Plumber (Jan 18, 2009)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> I gotcha. I thought you meant your cost. Yes, the company I work for definitely marked it up. We charge $600 for a full replacement and I think around $300 for a rebuild.


thieves


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

MDPlumber1977 said:


> Looks like a Sloan Regal 186. I cant tell based on the picture but prior to 1994 urinals often used 1.5 GPF and are still repaired with those parts and valves to this day. If you install a 1.0 on a fixture that requires 1.5 your flush may be less than impressive. Vice Versa, if you install a 1.5 on a 1.0 you will probably need a mop. To CYA you might wanna take a 1.0 and 1.5 rebuild kit. On the flip side, a brand new Sloan 186 will run you less then a hundred bucks cost if your customer would be interested in a straight replacement.


I was assuming it was a 1 gallon but you're right about the potential 1.5 gal flush. I always look on the porcelain to see what it says it is.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Plumber said:


> thieves


Thank you. What do you charge? And I don't hold a gun to anyone's head. They are free to choose someone else. Also, we get a commission on the mark up so that is factored in.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> I guess anytime I have bought one it was like you said, $30, but came with all the parts. It was more expensive the other way here in Houston. Anyhow, I think we're basically saying the same thing.


So, the drop-in kit you buy has the handle repair kit, the vacuum breaker, diaphragm, tube and relief valve, all in one kit?


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Titan Plumbing said:


> So, the drop-in kit you buy has the handle repair kit, the vacuum breaker, diaphragm, tube and relief valve, all in one kit?


Not exactly. I did a job the other day where I had to rebuild 4 and replace one and the kits came with the diaphragm, vacuum breaker, handle kit, and o-ring for the tube between the shut off and diaphragm but not the flush tube. Right at $30. Very handy.


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## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

Plumber said:


> thieves


 

Could be why you are out of work and businesses have shut down cannot afford to keep the doors open.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

The reason it flooded is because the trap and waste arm are plugged up with uratic acid. Pull the urinal and clean the trap, then rod the waste arm. I use the Sloan Performance Kit to rebuild flush valves. If the urinal doesn't say 1.0 gallon, 3.8 liter, it's a 1.5 gpf.


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## huskyevert (Mar 9, 2012)

It seems like you have a lot of good info here. The only thing I would add is this:
Sometimes when a sloan valve runs and runs it's because the plastic diaphragm cap has a small crack in it. One way to tell is if there is water between the brass flush valve cap and the plastic cap underneath. Not sure if the complete kits anyone else buys come with those plastic caps. The kits available here do not. I wish they did, and also the rubber washer for the vacuum breaker tube. That would save so much time bin-digging in the truck.


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## Plumber (Jan 18, 2009)

Richard Hilliard said:


> Could be why you are out of work and businesses have shut down cannot afford to keep the doors open.


lol


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

love2surf927 said:


> I do strictly residential service for the most part. I have a customer in a CPA office that has this Sloan valve. He says the handle is sticking. Can anyone help identify which valve this is, is it a royal and is there a specific repair kit to get? Any thing else I should know before I get into this?


So how did the repair go on the flushometer valve?


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> So how did the repair go on the flushometer valve?


He still working on it, which is why he havnt been here in a while..


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

rjbphd said:


> He still working on it, which is why he havnt been here in a while..


Haha. I sure hope not. Though, I have had my fair share of issues with those over the years and sometimes they do kick your butt.


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## love2surf927 (Dec 22, 2011)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> So how did the repair go on the flushometer valve?


Went very smooth thanks to your advice, new 1.5 gpf diaphragm, new handle kit and new vb. thanks much I love this place!!


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## love2surf927 (Dec 22, 2011)

rjbphd said:


> He still working on it, which is why he havnt been here in a while..


Haha.


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## love2surf927 (Dec 22, 2011)

When I put the new diaphragm in and turned the service stop on the water was continuously flowing until I opened it more, took me a few tries to figure out I just had to open the stop more, I thought I had te wrong diaphragm or put it in wrong. Why does it do that?


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

love2surf927 said:


> When I put the new diaphragm in and turned the service stop on the water was continuously flowing until I opened it more, took me a few tries to figure out I just had to open the stop more, I thought I had te wrong diaphragm or put it in wrong. Why does it do that?


Because they work off of pressure. Sometimes on the initial start-up they will do that until the pressure equalizes. Pressure is what opens the diaphragm and pressure is what closes the diaphragm. They do take some adjusting. Glad it worked out.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

This post I made a while back explaining how a flushometer works may help you understand better...

http://www.plumbingzone.com/f21/what-120-psi-does-flushometers-22341/index2/#post344882


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

So, let me get this straight...If I'm understanding correctly you're saying the diaphragm is what determines the amount of water per flush?



> Sloan calls it a relief valve...
> 
> The relief valve drains the water from on top of the diaphragm, which allows the diaphragm to rise up allowing the water to flow through the flush valve. In the diaphragm there is a orifice which allows the top chamber above the diaphragm to refill which then pushes the diaphragm down again shutting off the flow of water again until the next time the flush lever is pressed.
> 
> ...


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

Titan Plumbing said:


> So, let me get this straight...If I'm understanding correctly you're saying the diaphragm is what determines the amount of water per flush?


The orifice in the diaghrgm. Take an awl and make one bigger. The flush will be very short. Plug it completely off. The flush won't stop....


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

ILPlumber said:


> The orifice in the diaghrgm. Take an awl and make one bigger. The flush will be very short. Plug it completely off. The flush won't stop....


Really?

Nope, it's the relief valve and flow ring that determines the amount of water.

Show me different diaphragms?? EVERY single diaphragm made by Sloan has the same diameter hole in the diaphragm...


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Titan Plumbing said:


> So, let me get this straight...If I'm understanding correctly you're saying the diaphragm is what determines the amount of water per flush?


The orifice in the diaphragm determines the amount of water going through to fill the upper chamber. So chamber size also controls the length of the valve being open. If you were to remove the plastic cap if present the flush would go longer. Or a crack in the plastic cap will also do that. Likewise a blocked orifice....

The valve closes once the upper chamber is filled.....


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

I respectfully disagree...there are not ANY differences in the orifice diameter.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

You can take a drop in kit and turn the refill head over and it will flush a different amount of water.


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## justme (Jul 4, 2012)

but if the hole gets plugged it will run continuously , or if the hole is made bigger it will have a shorter flush. You both are right.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Let me further clarify...In the pic you'll clearly see the difference in the relief valves, refill heads and flow rings...these components are what determines the amount of water per flush...Also in the parts break down there is only ONE diaphragm designated.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

justme said:


> but if the hole gets plugged it will run continuously , or if the hole is made bigger it will have a shorter flush. You both are right.


I understand this, however that was a redirect to a post made saying the diaphragm is what controls the amount of water per flush...incorrect. check my post about 4 back where I quoted the erroneous info.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Let me further clarify...In the pic you'll clearly see the difference in the relief valves, refill heads and flow rings...these components are what determines the amount of water per flush...Also in the parts break down there is only ONE diaphragm designated.


Note: Page 2 Diaphragm Only listing....
http://sloanvalve.com/Maintenance_Guides/Royal_Flushometer.pdf
You are only seeing part of the picture...
I see 9 different diaphragm part numbers listed for the Sloan Royal alone....


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

I made this to use in my truck. And don't forget to laminate it.


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## justme (Jul 4, 2012)

Titan Plumbing said:


> I understand this, however that was a redirect to a post made saying the diaphragm is what controls the amount of water per flush...incorrect. check my post about 4 back where I quoted the erroneous info.


I agree with your post the hole in the diaphragm isn't intended to control the flush , it is there to equalize the pressure. Making the hole smaller or bigger does effect how it flushes though , but you shouldn't have to hack a diaphragm up like that for any reason.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Redwood said:


> Note: Page 2 Diaphragm Only listing....
> http://sloanvalve.com/Maintenance_Guides/Royal_Flushometer.pdf
> You are only seeing part of the picture...
> I see 9 different diaphragm part numbers listed for the Sloan Royal alone....


Red, there are not any differences in the diaphragms, except for the new chlorine resistant types. ALL the holes in the orifices are exactly the same...The diaphragm orifice does NOT control the amount of water per flush...never has and never will.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

justme said:


> I agree with your post the hole in the diaphragm isn't intended to control the flush , it is there to equalize the pressure. Making the hole smaller or bigger does effect how it flushes though , but you shouldn't have to hack a diaphragm up like that for any reason.


That is not what is in question. I'm simply trying to make certain that everyone knows the diaphragm has nothing to do with the amount of water flushed. If you hack it up or it gets full of rubber or sediment thats a whole nuther story...


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Red, there are not any differences in the diaphragms, except for the new chlorine resistant types. ALL the holes in the orifices are exactly the same...The diaphragm orifice does NOT control the amount of water per flush...never has and never will.


The orifice has everything to do with the amount of water flushed...
The space above the diaphragm filling with water is what shuts the flow off...
The guide assembly and the ring serve as the time adjustment (GPF) means...
I just went out and checked my truck stock...
I've got the following diaphragms:
5301188
5301176
5301170


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Red, there are not any differences in the diaphragms, except for the new chlorine resistant types. ALL the holes in the orifices are exactly the same...The diaphragm orifice does NOT control the amount of water per flush...never has and never will.


Me thinks we might be saying the same thing...:laughing:


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

I give up...you've beat me down as usual...you win.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

I'm sure you may have your micrometers handy...say in the bathroom by the toilet...Measure the orifice diameter and get back to me...better yet, call Sloan tomorrow and hit me up.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Redwood said:


> Me thinks we might be saying the same thing...:laughing:


NOPE, you clearly stated the diaphragm was what controlled the amount of water per flush...

I just don't want folks to get the wrong info...same as you, you want the same too.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

This might help


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Redwood said:


> The orifice has everything to do with the amount of water flushed...
> The space above the diaphragm filling with water is what shuts the flow off...
> *The guide assembly and the ring serve as the time adjustment (GPF) means...*
> I just went out and checked my truck stock...
> ...


Note the above.....


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

Get Jeff over here on this thread (plumber422) he knows sloan well.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Redwood said:


> This post I made a while back explaining how a flushometer works may help you understand better...
> 
> http://www.plumbingzone.com/f21/what-120-psi-does-flushometers-22341/index2/#post344882





Titan Plumbing said:


> So, let me get this straight...If I'm understanding correctly you're saying the diaphragm is what determines the amount of water per flush?





Redwood said:


> This might help


Red, in your helpful link where you redirected folks to your other post you said it was the diaphragm that controls the amount of water per flush...you continued down that road for a few posts here as well...then you discovered that was incorrect...Your cute link may well serve you better.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> Get Jeff over here on this thread (plumber422) he knows sloan well.


I got this, Steve.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Mike,
With all due respect the original post I linked is a very simple description of the operating principle of the Sloan Valve...

The different Diaphragm kits are a differing configuration of the timing mechanism... Those make the varying times...

The orifice is the time constant of the mechanism... Much like the quartz crystal in your timex watch..


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

This is my last post in this trainwreck of a thread...If you would, pay real close attention to the diaphragm part numbers. Notice ALL the diaphragms are exactly the same, the other components are what dictates the amount of water that is flushed.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Titan Plumbing said:


> This is my last post in this trainwreck of a thread...If you would, pay real close attention to the diaphragm part numbers. Notice ALL the diaphragms are exactly the same, the other components are what dictates the amount of water that is flushed.


 








I never did understand how the flushometer measured the GPF. I thought the different colored relief valves were weighted differently.

But as a plumber who has been re-building these for years (like Redwood says, without knowing how exactly it works......:laughing I do know that the diaphragms are all the same part numbers. 

Sloan indicates that it's the relief valve and the position of the flow rings that determine the GPF. I have not read anything with regard to the diaphragm determining the GPF. Not saying anyone else is wrong, just haven't heard the other argument before.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

I throw one more tidbit of info at ya.

You can use Sloan diaphragms in a Zurn...:whistling2:

Yeah, I've repaired and installed a few of these over the years. I no longer buy the drop in kits. I just buy the handle rubbers, diaphragms, assorted relief valves, o-rings, friction rings and ONLY A-156-A diaphragms.

Royal and Regal are basically the same unit, the main difference is the Royal comes standard with an ADA flush handle. All parts are interchangeable.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Plug the orifice...
Then try every possible combination of guide tube rings and relief valves...
Tell me what the gallons per flush you end up getting is...
Let me know how you make out! :thumbup:


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

Titan Plumbing said:


> I throw one more tidbit of info at ya.
> 
> You can use Sloan diaphragms in a Zurn...:whistling2:
> 
> ...


The Royal uses the "triple filter diaphragm"


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

422 plumber said:


> The Royal uses the "triple filter diaphragm"


The Royal will work with any style diaphragm.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

Yes, but that is why the Royal is more expensive. It has a better diaphragm, and the vandal proof cap over the screwdriver stop


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

After I install a urinal or toilet, I use the rig I made up for rodding to run several gallons of water thru the fixtures to leak test. I hate hooking up the flush valves only to disassemble them if there is a problem


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