# Copper drains and c8 cable



## cable or root (Oct 7, 2015)

Have a call set up for tomarrow, copper washer line. Another individual I know couldn't get it to drain well with his 3/8 drum. Could be inexperience on his part but I know what a pain copper drains can be. They're pretty rare here so I haven't cleaned one using the k50 yet. Does c8 have a good chance of getting stuck in a copper drain? I imagine the reverse auger would be a no go. I don't want to puncture the copper with the hook. I'm thinking a small grease arrow head or no head at all will be the way to go. I'm worried about the aspect of getting stuck though. Any advice would be appreciated.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

I'm going to guess that the copper washing machine line ties into cast iron at some point and it seems to drain okay unless it's the high flow of a washing machine then it overflows...

You'd have to sit there, and shut the washer off for a few seconds when you hear the standpipe start to fill, then turn it back on and listen again for the standpipe filling...

Typically you'll find a big chunk of rust occluding the inside of the pipe where the copper and the cast iron meet...

If it is 1 1/2" copper I'll use a #3003-150 Fernco or #K-150 Mission Shielded Coupling...
If it is 2" copper I'll use a #3003-22 Fernco or #K-200 Mission Shielded Coupling...

Cut the pipe close to the connection to the cast iron then clean it with my hammer and chisel...

Then reconnect with the shielded coupling...

Sometimes the 1 1/2" will not be enough for todays washing machines and the older line will have to be upgraded to present code...


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## Roto-Rooter (Jan 31, 2015)

Seen this a lot. Keep a bin of fernco's on the truck.


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## Unclog1776 (Feb 5, 2013)

We have that a lot here but the copper never runs under the slab. Reds method is correct. Get as close to the cast as you can and its just like cleaning out any other 2" drain after that


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## Drain Pro (Nov 3, 2013)

I've never had a problem snaking copper. 
1 1/2" I'd use a 1/4" spring head or Spartan 5/16" bulb head style. If the cast or gal is clogged I'd use 5/16". 1/4" probably won't clean it properly. And like Red said, if you can get close to the cast or gal (if any), then work from there if possible. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Nathan901 (Feb 11, 2012)

If the copper transitions to cast with a threaded bushing, cut it out and use a mip adapter. You can spend hours with a snake trying auger out the rust hole to keep up with a washing machine.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Nathan901 said:


> If the copper transitions to cast with a threaded bushing, cut it out and use a mip adapter. You can spend hours with a snake trying auger out the rust hole to keep up with a washing machine.


The cutting the pipe and hitting it with a chisel is pretty fast...

I agree though, augering is wasting time...


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## Nathan901 (Feb 11, 2012)

Around me, a lot of houses are c.i., with copper drain arms/washer traps and standpipes. 

I cut threaded bushings out all day and pipe out in pvc. 

The best part is, all the houses were built in the same period, and they're all having the same issue with the copper 50 years later.


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## cable or root (Oct 7, 2015)

Thanks guys, that call wound up being moved to somone else(calls get moved all over the place here) this is good info though. Copper drains are a rarity around here and I usually just clean them w/ 3/8". But they always put up a good fight. Now I know why. My main concern was getting the c8 stuck, but my fears on that have subsided too.


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