# Draining Out The Water Heater



## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Heres how i drain my heaters...from the top.
















Out the window 3' off the floor upstairs


----------



## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

That heater was ready to be hauled downstairs literally 7 minutes after I walked in the room.


----------



## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

TheMaster said:


> That heater was ready to be hauled downstairs literally 7 minutes after I walked in the room.


 I can't believe you actually have to drain the heater before you take it out.
You must be getting old. You could be to that next job 7 minutes sooner:laughing:


----------



## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

TM why did you grain that heater from the top? Why is the hose going out the roof?


----------



## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Don The Plumber said:


> I can't believe you actually have to drain the heater before you take it out.
> You must be getting old. You could be to that next job 7 minutes sooner:laughing:


I dont think about the next job while I'm working on whats in front of me. I focus and make every movement count.



pauliplumber said:


> TM why did you grain that heater from the top? Why is the hose going out the roof?


Its simply faster. The heater was on the second floor so I pumped it out the window in the utility room. I didn't hafta stretch 40' of hose out through her home or fiddle with a drain valve that wont drain....its just faster/easier with a pump.


----------



## bartnc37 (Feb 24, 2009)

any trouble getting that pump to prime, i think i have the same one, but currently drawing a blank on the name brand. I use it once in a while to pump rv into lines when winterizing and it can be a bit of a pain to get to prime out of the jug.


----------



## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

bartnc37 said:


> any trouble getting that pump to prime, i think i have the same one, but currently drawing a blank on the name brand. I use it once in a while to pump rv into lines when winterizing and it can be a bit of a pain to get to prime out of the jug.


I simply cut the hot line with a sawzall,push the piece of pex I have attached to the inlet hose down into the tank,drop the outlet hose out the window and flipped the on switch. It primes itself in about 3 or 4 seconds.


----------



## bartnc37 (Feb 24, 2009)

good deal, looks a lot quicker and easier than the old air compressor method


----------



## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

TheMaster said:


> Its simply faster. The heater was on the second floor so I pumped it out the window in the utility room. I didn't hafta stretch 40' of hose out through her home or fiddle with a drain valve that wont drain....its just faster/easier with a pump.


When I get situations like that, I discharge via the pump into the tub or toilet. No water dumped outside from a second floor that way I can control it's discharge. Especially if it's hot water. I wouldn't want some body to get hurt and some people get funny when you kill their grass or hedges, but the water is usually already cold when I get there because the HO has already shut the heater down.

I hook my pump up to the water heater drain via a washing machine hose. The suction from the pump keeps the drain from clogging.


----------



## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

ChrisConnor said:


> When I get situations like that, I discharge via the pump into the tub or toilet. No water dumped outside from a second floor that way I can control it's discharge. Especially if it's hot water. I wouldn't want some body to get hurt and some people get funny when you kill their grass or hedges, but the water is usually already cold when I get there because the HO has already shut the heater down.
> 
> I hook my pump up to the water heater drain via a washing machine hose. The suction from the pump keeps the drain from clogging.


 Yeah I would hate for a person to see the water coming off the roof on a cold day and decide to go stand under it or kill the 12" of oak leaves in the empty empty flower beds:laughing: I'll keep that in mind tho 
The problem with connecting to the drain valve is two fold.....Its a wasted step because you hafta cut the hot and cold anyway...Correct? Why not just pump it out from the top??? You have access anyway.. The second reason you pump from the top is your pump doesn't suck all that crap in the bottom into itself,shortening the life of the pump. You see you need to be very efficient to make alot of money in a short time.:whistling2:


----------



## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Oh, and another thing.





TheMaster said:


> or fiddle with a drain valve that wont drain....its just faster/easier with a pump.


So, your get drain valves that are plugged and your pump won't suck the stuff out? 

How often does that happen?


----------



## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

ChrisConnor said:


> Oh, and another thing.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If you did have done as many water heater change outs as me you would understand that bad drain valves are common .....they tend to fill with sediment from the heater. I dont connect to the drain valve ..ITS A WASTED STEP BECAUSE YOU HAFTA CUT THE HOT WATER PIPE ANYWAY AND THE BOTTOM IS ALSO WHERE ALL THE SEDIMENT FROM THE HEATER IS.......whats so hard to understand about that?:laughing:


----------



## Cal (Jun 17, 2008)

TheMaster said:


> That heater was ready to be hauled downstairs literally 7 minutes after I walked in the room.


 Due to our nasty water ,,, i get a LOT of drains that ya jst CAN'T get to open and flow . I Like the look of this method from the hot side .

I'll be thankin ya sir :thumbsup:


----------



## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Cal said:


> Due to our nasty water ,,, i get a LOT of drains that ya jst CAN'T get to open and flow . I Like the look of this method from the hot side .
> 
> I'll be thankin ya sir :thumbsup:


It works EVERYTIME and its quick:thumbsup: .....unlike a drain valve. Ever have one of those drains break right off? I have a few times.


----------



## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

TheMaster said:


> It works EVERYTIME and its quick:thumbsup: .....unlike a drain valve. Ever have one of those drains break right off? I have a few times.


 Like the pump idea. I have one of those pumps & never used it for that.
However most of my water heater replacements are in a basement, which is at the lowest point. Many houses don't even have a sink or other fixture to open & drain out, in the basement. So if I cut the hot water nipple at top, without draining a bit 1st, I'd have alot of water spewing out. Some of these basements that although they don't have a sink down there, are pretty clean, with tile &/ or carpet. And if there is a floor drain, the floor usually is not pitched very good, for water to drain too.
You had a 2nd floor heater replacement, in that case, pump is perfect. TMO.:thumbsup:


----------



## drtyhands (Aug 16, 2008)

Don The Plumber said:


> Like the pump idea. I have one of those pumps & never used it for that.
> However most of my water heater replacements are in a basement, which is at the lowest point. Many houses don't even have a sink or other fixture to open & drain out, in the basement. So if I cut the hot water nipple at top, without draining a bit 1st, I'd have alot of water spewing out. Some of these basements that although they don't have a sink down there, are pretty clean, with tile &/ or carpet. And if there is a floor drain, the floor usually is not pitched very good, for water to drain too.
> You had a 2nd floor heater replacement, in that case, pump is perfect. TMO.:thumbsup:


Sounds ugly.
What does a guy do when the drain bib is clogged,besides cut system & drain?


----------



## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Don The Plumber said:


> Like the pump idea. I have one of those pumps & never used it for that.
> However most of my water heater replacements are in a basement, which is at the lowest point. Many houses don't even have a sink or other fixture to open & drain out, in the basement. So if I cut the hot water nipple at top, without draining a bit 1st, I'd have alot of water spewing out. Some of these basements that although they don't have a sink down there, are pretty clean, with tile &/ or carpet. And if there is a floor drain, the floor usually is not pitched very good, for water to drain too.
> You had a 2nd floor heater replacement, in that case, pump is perfect. TMO.:thumbsup:


Open your relief valve and let it drain for a minute there 1st before you cut the pipe.


----------



## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

I pump from the drain valve. We have 2 or 3 story houses here, and most of the time, water still drips from the hot side, 10 minutes after the tank is empty.

I dont cut either pipe untill the tank is almost empty. I do clean them and get everything prepared in the 10 or 12 minutes the tank is draining. 

I have had one or two drain valves clog in the past 10 years. I simply open the cold water feed, and let the water pressure flush it out. 

My Teel pump is 8 or so years old, and I have never replaced the impeller.


----------



## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

RealLivePlumber said:


> I pump from the drain valve. We have 2 or 3 story houses here, and most of the time, water still drips from the hot side, 10 minutes after the tank is empty.
> 
> I dont cut either pipe untill the tank is almost empty. I do clean them and get everything prepared in the 10 or 12 minutes the tank is draining.
> 
> ...


 Here have a look.......think that would cause you any trouble in your drain valve?


----------



## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

I do it like someone else here said. After my pump is hooked up and its clogged I turn on the valve and it flushes it out plus it primes the pump if needed.


----------



## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

I have a tip for you, use a heavier/thicker hose between the drain valve and pump on a water heater when a pump is in use and as short as possible, don't use a cheap hose like the $1.99 specials from Wal-Mart, the cheap hose will suck in on it's self if the bottom of the tank has heavy sediment in it, if the flow is restricted out the tank the pump can't work efficiently.

I know I leaned for experience.


----------



## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

Ron said:


> I have a tip for you, use a heavier/thicker hose between the drain valve and pump on a water heater when a pump is in use and as short as possible, don't use a cheap hose like the $1.99 specials from Wal-Mart, the cheap hose will suck in on it's self if the bottom of the tank has heavy sediment in it, if the flow is restricted out the tank the pump can't work efficiently.
> 
> 
> 
> I know I leaned for experience.


I use a wash machine hose


----------



## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

house plumber said:


> I do it like someone else here said. After my pump is hooked up and its clogged I turn on the valve and it flushes it out plus it primes the pump if needed.



I do this also, even before I hook the pump up.


----------



## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

TheMaster said:


> Here have a look.......think that would cause you any trouble in your drain valve?


 WTH kind of water you guys got out there? Looks like CPVC inside copper. Aint seen that around here ever.
Reminds me of 3 stooges, when he cuts a conduit pipe, and says,"no wonder this pipe don't drain, it's all full of wires":laughing:
P.S. Hope you drink bottled water


----------



## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Don The Plumber said:


> WTH kind of water you guys got out there? Looks like CPVC inside copper. Aint seen that around here ever.
> Reminds me of 3 stooges, when he cuts a conduit pipe, and says,"no wonder this pipe don't drain, it's all full of wires":laughing:
> P.S. Hope you drink bottled water


 A little bird told me that was the old diptube. I drink fiji water,try it:thumbsup:


----------



## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

I do something very smiler. I use 1/2" pex that is coupled together with sharkbites and I just pull a siphon. I also pull the top element and pull a second siphon with a 3/4" line as well sometimes.



TheMaster said:


> I dont think about the next job while I'm working on whats in front of me. I focus and make every movement count.
> 
> 
> Its simply faster. The heater was on the second floor so I pumped it out the window in the utility room. I didn't hafta stretch 40' of hose out through her home or fiddle with a drain valve that wont drain....its just faster/easier with a pump.


----------



## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

Protech said:


> I do something very smiler. I use 1/2" pex that is coupled together with sharkbites and I just pull a siphon. I also pull the top element and pull a second siphon with a 3/4" line as well sometimes.


I can't believe how many electric water heaters you southerners have, & how easy it must be to replace those heaters in garages. No gas piping, no venting, no hauling up & down basement stairs, no covering needed for floors or carpet, when your hauling them, & all your tools, through houses. And then you have to find ways to make it drain faster too. Heck, do you even have to shut the engine off on your truck?
I'm trying to think, who was president, the last time I had a water heater install like that. I'm jealous.:laughing:


----------



## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

Believe it or not, in over 31yrs plumbing, I have never used CPVC piping, other than repairs or non pressure situations. I notice in Protech picture of heater in garage, that CPVC is going right into top of heater. Don't seem to me like that would hold up well, on hot side especially. No problems with that? When we use pex tubing here, the code says we must have atleast the 1st 24" of piping, to be copper, on both sides of heater. But I think that is due to fume pipe, or draft diverter clearance, on gas heaters. I rarely install an electric heater. 
No need for dielectrics right? Since it's all CPVC piping?
How long does it take for CPVC glue to dry, on newly installed ftgs, before you feel comfortable turning on the water pressure?


----------



## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Don The Plumber said:


> I can't believe how many electric water heaters you southerners have, & how easy it must be to replace those heaters in garages. No gas piping, no venting, no hauling up & down basement stairs, no covering needed for floors or carpet, when your hauling them, & all your tools, through houses. And then you have to find ways to make it drain faster too. Heck, do you even have to shut the engine off on your truck?
> I'm trying to think, who was president, the last time I had a water heater install like that. I'm jealous.:laughing:


:laughing: We have about 60/40 with gas being the most common. I love the electric heater too:thumbsup: But we do have some in attics here....with folding stairs that pop out of the ceiling. You wouldn't like those...and some are installed on the OTHER side of ductwork....in the attic.:blink:



Don The Plumber said:


> Believe it or not, in over 31yrs plumbing, I have never used CPVC piping, other than repairs or non pressure situations. I notice in Protech picture of heater in garage, that CPVC is going right into top of heater. Don't seem to me like that would hold up well, on hot side especially. No problems with that? When we use pex tubing here, the code says we must have atleast the 1st 24" of piping, to be copper, on both sides of heater. But I think that is due to fume pipe, or draft diverter clearance, on gas heaters. I rarely install an electric heater.
> No need for dielectrics right? Since it's all CPVC piping?
> How long does it take for CPVC glue to dry, on newly installed ftgs, before you feel comfortable turning on the water pressure?


 I replaced a heater lastweek that had cpvc plastic fip adapters screwed directly to the heater....it was leaking at the element. It was 10 years old. I cut the cpvc about 3" from the wall and installed sharkbites and transitioned to copper. I dont glue cpvc pressure lines anymore because i dont have time for the solvent to dry on a service call. Cpvc was popular here before poly and pex came out.....then everybody stopped using it. The rare freeeze here has destroyed alot of the cpvc and its been replaced by pex.


----------



## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

Now this is the pump I use to drain out the water heater.


----------



## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

*zoeller pumps are sweet*



Don The Plumber said:


> I can't believe you actually have to drain the heater before you take it out.
> You must be getting old. You could be to that next job 7 minutes sooner:laughing:


that is the smart way to do it....

we picked up a couple of those pumps and I know 
it has save me a ton of time and greif...


----------



## dankman (Nov 19, 2009)

Protech said:


> I do something very smiler. I use 1/2" pex that is coupled together with sharkbites and I just pull a siphon. I also pull the top element and pull a second siphon with a 3/4" line as well sometimes.




Wow, that water heater isn't even installed to Ohio Code, we require metallic pipe 18" in and out of the water heater to keep it kosher. I use the Teel pump idea anytime I can't get a hose to a working drain but I flush out the boiler drain with city pressure prior to attempting to drain any water heater, the 3 minutes spent doing that saves all sorts of time when it comes to a replacement.


----------



## choyboy (Feb 8, 2010)

I use this Ridgid transfer pump to drain the hot water tanks. I use a 7 ft piece of 3/4" hose from either the drain valve or sharkbite it to the cold water inlet and use the dip tube to suck the water out.


----------



## Herk (Jun 12, 2008)

We have the hard water here, too, and getting an old heater out isn't easy when there's ten gallons of the stuff built up on the bottom. It's heavier than water, and if it's bad enough, water won't go through it.

Not having a pump, I have used a carry-air tank to blow the heaters out if there's no floor drain in a basement. I hook a snifter valve to the hot side and a hose connection to the cold side and hit it with air. One tank is usually enough to get all the water out. I can use the regular drain if it's on a softener instead of the cold side. There's going to be some air loss through the small hole in the dip tube.

I also carry a ball valve with a hose connection to drain the tank because the original drains will plug instantly because of the sediment. I have had to clear hoses full of lime occasionally.


----------



## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

And what would be the need for that 18" seeing as it's an electric heater?



dankman said:


> Wow, that water heater isn't even installed to Ohio Code, we require metallic pipe 18" in and out of the water heater to keep it kosher. I use the Teel pump idea anytime I can't get a hose to a working drain but I flush out the boiler drain with city pressure prior to attempting to drain any water heater, the 3 minutes spent doing that saves all sorts of time when it comes to a replacement.


----------



## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

The beauty of the 3/4" pex in the element port and the 1/2" pex in the top port method is that you can simply left the pex above the sediment line.

If you have 1' of sediment in the bottom you can just pull the lower element and shopvac the rest out by tipping the heater forward.

I was not changing the heater in that photo. Just changing the elements and cleaning the tank out.



Herk said:


> We have the hard water here, too, and getting an old heater out isn't easy when there's ten gallons of the stuff built up on the bottom. It's heavier than water, and if it's bad enough, water won't go through it.
> 
> Not having a pump, I have used a carry-air tank to blow the heaters out if there's no floor drain in a basement. I hook a snifter valve to the hot side and a hose connection to the cold side and hit it with air. One tank is usually enough to get all the water out. I can use the regular drain if it's on a softener instead of the cold side. There's going to be some air loss through the small hole in the dip tube.
> 
> I also carry a ball valve with a hose connection to drain the tank because the original drains will plug instantly because of the sediment. I have had to clear hoses full of lime occasionally.


----------



## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

Protech said:


> The beauty of the 3/4" pex in the element port and the 1/2" pex in the top port method is that you can simply left the pex above the sediment line.
> 
> If you have 1' of sediment in the bottom you can just pull the lower element and shopvac the rest out by tipping the heater forward.
> 
> I was not changing the heater in that photo. Just changing the elements and cleaning the tank out.


You guys got some ugly water down there, if sediment is up to 1 foot high.
Are you sure that there are no sanitary drains connected to that tank.:blink: That don't happen here in the Great Lake State. Very seldom I have a problem draining hot water tanks.


----------

