# Water heater odour remedies?



## plumsolver (Apr 7, 2011)

I have installed a 40 gallon electric water heater in the last 6 months and the customer has called back to complain about a sulphury smell on the hot side of there system. 
The companies hotline says to remove anode and replace with an aluminum one, so we did but smell comes back we have flushed tank out with bleach twice now and it keeps it at bay until they go away for a week and return to the cottage... then smell is back full force. Anyone encounter this problem and how did you rectify??, should mention the old tank had marked on it anode removed 1993, and of course no anode no warranty on new tank...


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

plumsolver said:


> I have installed a 40 gallon electric water heater in the last 6 months and the customer has called back to complain about a sulphury smell on the hot side of there system.
> The companies hotline says to remove anode and replace with an aluminum one, so we did but smell comes back we have flushed tank out with bleach twice now and it keeps it at bay until they go away for a week and return to the cottage... then smell is back full force. Anyone encounter this problem and how did you rectify??, should mention the old tank had marked on it anode removed 1993, and of course no anode no warranty on new tank...


I am surprised they recommended an aluminum rod. The correction for a heavy sulfur smell in the hot water is a zinc anode rod, not aluminum. Most heaters come with either an aluminum or magnesium rod from the factory. A zinc rod does work. I have used it a few times and have not had a call back for the issue since. What you have to make sure of is that the sulfur smell is actually coming from the hot water. If every fixture has the smell emanating from it when hot water flows than clearly its the water. Sometimes the hot water from a lav faucet running will cause the bacteria living in the pop-up and overflow to release gas that smells similar to sulfur and people naturally assume its the hot water because it only starts to smell after they run hot water when in reality its the bacteria living in the drain being activated by the hot water.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Adjust the temperture to a minimum of 140 degrees F. Then go through the cottage and open all the hot water taps. When the 140 degree water is present at all the hot water taps, shut off the taps and let that scalding hot water sit there for at least {2} hours. That will kill all the hydrogen sulfide bacteria throughout the hot water pipes. It's not sufficient to just address the tank. All of the hot water piping must be treated too.

Chloronating the system will do the same thing, but then the system has to be flushed well to get rid of the bleach.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Tommy plumber said:


> Adjust the temperture to a minimum of 140 degrees F. Then go through the cottage and open all the hot water taps. When the 140 degree water is present at all the hot water taps, shut off the taps and let that scalding hot water sit there for at least {2} hours. That will kill all the hydrogen sulfide bacteria throughout the hot water pipes. It's not sufficient to just address the tank. All of the hot water piping must be treated too.
> 
> Chloronating the system will do the same thing, but then the system has to be flushed well to get rid of the bleach.


That is a good point, Tommy. Thanks for adding that.


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## plumsolver (Apr 7, 2011)

Yes it is definatly the hot side in every fixture, when we replaced anode we ran through all lines and then flushed out well until smell was gone I will try a zinc anode and see if that changes things, thanks


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> I am surprised they recommended an aluminum rod. The correction for a heavy sulfur smell in the hot water is a zinc anode rod, not aluminum. Most heaters come with either an aluminum or magnesium rod from the factory. A zinc rod does work. I have used it a few times and have not had a call back for the issue since. What you have to make sure of is that the sulfur smell is actually coming from the hot water. If every fixture has the smell emanating from it when hot water flows than clearly its the water. Sometimes the hot water from a lav faucet running will cause the bacteria living in the pop-up and overflow to release gas that smells similar to sulfur and people naturally assume its the hot water because it only starts to smell after they run hot water when in reality its the bacteria living in the drain being activated by the hot water.


Make that an Aluminum/Zinc/Tin Anode Rod and I'll agree with you...:thumbup:


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Redwood said:


> Make that an Aluminum/Zinc/Tin Anode Rod and I'll agree with you...:thumbup:


I didn't know such an animal exists. Last time I ran into that I just went and ordered a zinc anode rod and that corrected the issue. Good to know that they make mixed metal rods.


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## Plumbtastic1 (Jul 5, 2014)

I have also run Into that problem a couple times. The zinc anode and a hydrogen peroxide flush in the water heater cured the issue both times for me.


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## plumsolver (Apr 7, 2011)

So can anyone tell me why they make the other anodes? Cheaper, different types of water? And I also heard that since the tank has a extended warranty does that mean it has more than one anode?? Thanks again I can't believe I've never heard of this before..


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

plumsolver said:


> So can anyone tell me why they make the other anodes? Cheaper, different types of water? And I also heard that since the tank has a extended warranty does that mean it has more than one anode?? Thanks again I can't believe I've never heard of this before..


Check with the manufacturer because some do come w/ 2 rods in order to justify their extended warranty. But its usually obvious if it has 2 because you'll see two rods threaded in. Aluminum and magnesium are the most common because they are better at attracting the most common particulates, magnesium and calcium.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

One drawback with chlorinating the system is that if the plumber accidentally gets bleach on himself while pouring it into the W/H, when he goes around the house opening the faucets, he won't know if the bleach he is smelling is coming out of a faucet or if it's the bleach he spilled on his hands.

That's why I like to crank up the thermostats on the W/H. But don't allow someone to get burned while doing it this way or you will be in hot water....:laughing: {pun intended}


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## PathMaker (May 10, 2013)

If the heater is older than 1993, then I am guessing that the glass lining is trashed, and the steel tank has been exposed and is starting to get eaten by the electrolysis/corrosion/sediment. If that is the case, replacing the anodes won't stop the pitted steel from harboring lots of bacteria and duplicating the smell. Once that smooth steel wall gets pitted and porous, it's really hard, if not impossible to get at the bacteria to kill it all. It will keep coming back, along with the smell.


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## plumsolver (Apr 7, 2011)

Sorry for confusion, the tank is 6 months old. The one we removed had anode removed in 1993 written on it which is a hard sell to tell the customer that his new tank has no warranty if I just remove because his old one lasted so long..


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## ASUPERTECH (Jun 22, 2008)

If there are any water filters or water trmt devices they may also need to be adressed. If bacteria say from a well is present in the system all the sanitizing in the world won't do you any good if your your reintroducing it to te system!


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## plumsolver (Apr 7, 2011)

There is a softener before the tank so you think it may be fouled up with bacteria? I took a water sample before and after it to see if it working properly... I have purchased some zinc tablets to put in we will see how long they last.. thanks again


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## ASUPERTECH (Jun 22, 2008)

How do your samples smell? Also I believe A.O. Smith requires removal of the anode rod when connected to a softener- if not removal, then maybe it's the zinc, cant remember.
If there is a foul odor from the softener, put it in bypass to see if it clears up, if it's a mixed bed softener the charcoal will neutralize the chlorine, and this will not be an asset in your case! I put my system in bypass for 2-3 days a month, just to keep the bacteria, algae from being able to get a foot hold!


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

I go alum-zinc-tin or powered anode if they are willing to spend the coin for a guaranteed fix.


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## infomr (Sep 12, 2014)

The incidence of rotten egg odor or black water in water lines is due to the reaction of sulfates and microorganisms in water. To determine the source of the odor, it is important to check to see whether the cold water contains odor, or just the hot water.


Run the hot water to notice the odor. Then move to another faucet and run the cold water. If the cold water has an odor, then the source is in the cold water. If the hot water alone has odor, then the odor is occurring primarily in the water heater.

​


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## plumsolver (Apr 7, 2011)

How does a powered anode work? I guess the smell is back worse then before just as I thought this was solved and now I have two more customers in same boat so this problem isn't going away?..


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

you can try all these remedies but the one sure fired way to solve your problem...we simply take the rod out completely and plug the hole with a 3/4 plug.... 


I have taken out the mag rod before and installed an alluminum one only to have it stink over a short while again......finally gave up and realized their water was "special".

I would bet you that the old heater you took out probably had the rod removed from it also for the same reason back in the 90s..

I Explained to the customer she still had the complete warranty through me and their problem went away in a few cycles of the heater........problem solved.....


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Master Mark said:


> you can try all these remedies but the one sure fired way to solve your problem...we simply take the rod out completely and plug the hole with a 3/4 plug....
> 
> I have taken out the mag rod before and installed an alluminum one only to have it stink over a short while again......finally gave up and realized their water was "special".
> 
> ...


Did u pour any bleach in the heater before plugging?? I do that all the time.. and many times I've taken the rod out before putting in service.. heater on well system lasts longer than city service


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

rjbphd said:


> Did u pour any bleach in the heater before plugging?? I do that all the time.. and many times I've taken the rod out before putting in service.. heater on well system lasts longer than city service


 
we just take the rod out to eliminate difficulties like this.....when its on a well ....

going back every few months and trying another type of rod has driven me nuts , and its difficult to try to pass on the expence of other rods to the customer, 
 so we just take it out on installation 

on average a water heater on well water seems to last decades because of the low water pressure so its pretty much always been a wash for us....


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## mrjasontgreek (May 21, 2014)

Master Mark said:


> we just take the rod out to eliminate difficulties like this.....when its on a well ....
> 
> going back every few months and trying another type of rod has driven me nuts , and its difficult to try to pass on the expence of other rods to the customer,
> so we just take it out on installation
> ...


I have removed many anode rods for this reason over the last 8 years. To my knowledge none of those tanks have failed yet. 

I'm sure that the rod may help extend the life of the tank, but how much? Is it worth it? anything beyond 8-10 years you've basically gotten your money's worth out of it anyway. 

That being said I have also seen tanks that NEED to have an anode or everything goes to pieces. The water gets nasty as soon as the rod is depleted, which usually happens within 12-18 months. Those tanks probably need the anode... It all comes down to the water.


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

mrjasontgreek said:


> I have removed many anode rods for this reason over the last 8 years. To my knowledge none of those tanks have failed yet.
> 
> I'm sure that the rod may help extend the life of the tank, but how much? Is it worth it? anything beyond 8-10 years you've basically gotten your money's worth out of it anyway.
> 
> That being said I have also seen tanks that NEED to have an anode or everything goes to pieces. The water gets nasty as soon as the rod is depleted, which usually happens within 12-18 months. Those tanks probably need the anode... It all comes down to the water.


if it is on a well in our region, 100% of the time the home has a water softener...so the water has been tamed down already.....most nasties are out of the water and the units usually last 15 years on average


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## mrjasontgreek (May 21, 2014)

I saw in the wholesaler the other day that giant sells zinc pellets to add in addition to a magnesium anode rod to remove smell. I wonder if they work? I've never heard of anyone using them. There was a customer not too long ago asking for it. I'd never even heard tell of it before that, and then within a couple of days I spotted them tucked away on a shelf at crane.


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## Steveking (May 16, 2014)

If it's a cottage are they shutting power off to heater when they leave if they are it will give the bacteria a chance to grow .i have a house in Mexico and shut the gas off sometimes I will have a sulphur smell.


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## justme (Jul 4, 2012)

if its bacteria then add a couple bottles of peroxide when you first get to your cabin and turn the heater on, let it sit for a few hours then flush out the whole water system.


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## plumsolver (Apr 7, 2011)

Well it is a cottage but they leave heater on all the time. I am talking with the manufacturer to see if they have any other ideas.. I've heard the powered anodes work but all these other ideas were supposed to as well.. I think I am just going to pull anode the old one had its pulled back in 93 and lasted until this year so...


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## LEAD INGOT (Jul 15, 2009)

Stick a Marathon Heater in there. Plastic tank, no anode.


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