# Another Tankless Installation



## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)




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## Wethead (Oct 13, 2008)

Is that electrical box code right under the heater?


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## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

I don't know. I don't do electric, however inspector passed it. And I see them all the time like that


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## Wethead (Oct 13, 2008)

well was the box there before or after you installed the heater?


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## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

******* said:


> well was the box there before or after you installed the heater?


After


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## Wethead (Oct 13, 2008)

AHHH OK , yea, then nice install for sure !!

wHY would a stupid electrician put a box like that.....I mean he could have just put it off to the side vs right under.

The plumbing word looks awesome!


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## Tankless (Jun 12, 2008)

******* said:


> AHHH OK , yea, then nice install for sure !!
> 
> wHY would a stupid electrician put a box like that.....I mean he could have just put it off to the side vs right under.
> 
> The plumbing word looks awesome!


Stupid electrician?
Dude, seriously. If you live in a glass house, don't throw stones.
There is absolutly nothing wrong with that installation.


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## Wethead (Oct 13, 2008)

Tankless said:


> Stupid electrician?
> Dude, seriously. If you live in a glass house, don't throw stones.
> There is absolutly nothing wrong with that installation.


Hi,

I wasn't throwing any stones, and IN NY , we aren't allowed to have electrical boxes that close to plumbing, for safety reasons,

Thats the only reason I asked, 

Robert knows that I mean no harm, I was simply just asking to learn, That's all.

I am sorry if I came off the wrong way


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## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

*Other side of the wall*









































Here are some pics of the piping, the city wouldn't allow me 1.5", thats right, 1.5 INCHES to the PL, so I had to relocate to the other side of the house, 47' away. Sucked, the customers love the tankless, the thing is it takes 5-20 seconds to get hot water tot he third story kitchen now.

Don't laugh at the thermoseal, I hat corners, especially around propress fittings, since they are long sweeping fittings.


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## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

The customer will box all this in by the way. I work by myself. No guy helping me level that galv. The small 1/2" one coming out of the cieling in the corner pic, that was there already, my only work was everything on the strut, 1" galv, hung it all myself, and then tied everything in in that little cubby. 1 ball valve to the house, the other shuts the water down tot he tankless.


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

Vice grips clamped on the uni-strut make life easy when running pipe alone. Pipe can sit on em when screwed together. Then clamped.

I like the non-split armoflex. It can be slid on as you go right around the corners. Looks nice that way.

Good work man:thumbsup:


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## service guy (Jun 26, 2008)

That is a beautiful job Robert. Another picture for the website!


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## ASUPERTECH (Jun 22, 2008)

Very professional...:thumbsup: Got a couple ?'s 4 U
1.Why did you insulate the cold?
2.How long have you been using the ProPress?
3.Feed back on the Propress?
4.Ever try Noritz? What do you think?
5. Track pipe? Can you use this out there?
6.where is the controller mounted?


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## Plumbworker (Oct 23, 2008)

clean job there!! what kind of thread sealant did you use?? those threads look bare to me.


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## Plumber (Jan 18, 2009)

WestCoastPlumber said:


> The customer will box all this in by the way. I work by myself. No guy helping me level that galv. The small 1/2" one coming out of the cieling in the corner pic, that was there already, my only work was everything on the strut, 1" galv, hung it all myself, and then tied everything in in that little cubby. 1 ball valve to the house, the other shuts the water down tot he tankless.


We don't have a large demand for tankless here ($$$). I helped on one that my helper sold and that was 2 years ago.

The customer will box in the tankless, too, or leave it hanging outside?

That gal is for nat gas, I imagine?


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## super plumber (Oct 19, 2008)

Nice looking work :thumbsup:


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## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

ASUPERTECH said:


> Very professional...:thumbsup: Got a couple ?'s 4 U
> 1.Why did you insulate the cold? I always insulate both, code wants 5' of hot and 5' of cold insulated, I just go all the way due to lenght
> 2.How long have you been using the ProPress? About a year now, I love it, takes some time to get used to, but it loks great on tankless, and also for commercial jobs, shut downs, high rise repairs, etc
> 3.Feed back on the Propress? type K fittings. 50 year warranty
> ...


 
Good times :thumbsup:


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## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

Plumbworker said:


> clean job there!! what kind of thread sealant did you use?? those threads look bare to me.


 


I use key tite, and then go and clean each joint after I am done installing. Can't stand extra dope all over.....:whistling2:


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## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

Plumber said:


> We don't have a large demand for tankless here ($$$). I helped on one that my helper sold and that was 2 years ago.
> 
> The customer will box in the tankless, too, or leave it hanging outside?
> 
> That gal is for nat gas, I imagine?


 
He will leave it like it is, if he wanted it boxed, I would have installed a recess box.  I was gonna o recess box ont he other side of the house, wouldn't of had to run all the extra piping, but the city wouldn't allow us the 1.5" the vent would stick out the box, the house it right on 36" PL


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## M5Plumb (Oct 2, 2008)

Robert, you definitely love that Pro-Press, really looks good!!! I recall your mentioning it in a few of your posts. What's the phrase, use it or lose it right!!
Nice work man.


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## Tankless (Jun 12, 2008)

I think the one thing I like best about PP is the sweeping 90's. AND the type K. Can't go wrong with that. With all tankless heaters there is a hit on pressure, so TO ME it is very important to minimize fittings as much as possible. I used to use as many fittings as it took to make it look as clean as possible. While it may look nice, it can and will take its toll on pressure. This is more noticeable on 55 psi or less. I also HATE seeing good flow on cold, than switch to hot and you see that drop. To me that is most important when sizing. PP ...I would think helps cause of the sweep, no?


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## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

Tankless said:


> I think the one thing I like best about PP is the sweeping 90's. AND the type K. Can't go wrong with that. With all tankless heaters there is a hit on pressure, so TO ME it is very important to minimize fittings as much as possible. I used to use as many fittings as it took to make it look as clean as possible. While it may look nice, it can and will take its toll on pressure. This is more noticeable on 55 psi or less. I also HATE seeing good flow on cold, than switch to hot and you see that drop. To me that is most important when sizing. PP ...I would think helps cause of the sweep, no?


 

I too hate the pressure drop on the hot, it upsets me, I have been able to combat most of that with propress and not doing minimum sizes on the units. if the main is 3/4, I can only go 3/4, but if there is 1", I will run 1", and explain to the customer why. It is more $$, but I have never had a pressure drop.


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## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

Tankless, now that pex is legal, what do you think about using pex and using the pipe as a 90, instead of the fittings, I think if you use the fittings, there will be pressure loss for sure due to the smaller id fittings.

I am not ready for pex, I love copper. Not only that, I bet all the pex is gonna have to be insulated.


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## Tankless (Jun 12, 2008)

WestCoastPlumber said:


> Tankless, now that pex is legal, what do you think about using pex and using the pipe as a 90, instead of the fittings, I think if you use the fittings, there will be pressure loss for sure due to the smaller id fittings.
> 
> I am not ready for pex, I love copper. Not only that, I bet all the pex is gonna have to be insulated.


 
I totally agree 100%.
On 90's I go out of my way to sweep them with pex. But the smaller ID is a concern I have. I do see a hit from it. I have been known to over size to 1" on a 3/4" trunk mainly becasue of the fittings. That's on the cold. Now on the hot that is a different story. Nothing worse than a medium to long run of 3/4" for a bathroom or kitchen. Times for tempered water almost double, but it's a compromise. Mani systems have their benefits. I will say that the hit of 3/4" pex fittings is not so bad to make me NOT use it. it does bother me though...


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## A Good Plumber (Jun 18, 2008)

Tankless, 

Nice clean install! 

Is the gas 3/4" ?
Natural or Propane?


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## Tankless (Jun 12, 2008)

It's not my install!
Westcoast did it.
Most of us are on Nat gas


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## A Good Plumber (Jun 18, 2008)

Tankless, 
I know you said the gas is 1", but it looks like the valve and final connection is 3/4".

That would not have passed inspection here cuz the 1" piping needs to be full size through the full port ball valve, before connecting to the appliance.


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## A Good Plumber (Jun 18, 2008)

Sorry Tankless.

Whats up Westcoast?


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## ASUPERTECH (Jun 22, 2008)

Thanks for the follow up. Nice job. I agree, nothing looks better than hard pipe to an appliance. Sure can tell a Plumber was there.


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## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

A Good Plumber said:


> Tankless,
> I know you said the gas is 1", but it looks like the valve and final connection is 3/4".
> 
> That would not have passed inspection here cuz the 1" piping needs to be full size through the full port ball valve, before connecting to the appliance.


 

Wow, that passes down here in so cal. All the time. Right on the other side of the wall is a 1 x 3/4 90


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## A Good Plumber (Jun 18, 2008)

I'm unable to find the section of the code that pertains to the valve being full size, but they look for it on all inspections. They want to know the valve is full port also.


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## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

A Good Plumber said:


> I'm unable to find the section of the code that pertains to the valve being full size, but they look for it on all inspections. They want to know the valve is full port also.


 

The valve that you see is the valve that came with the unit from the manufacturer. :thumbsup:


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## A Good Plumber (Jun 18, 2008)

I see that, but they have us increase the valve to full size of the gas delivery and reduce after the valve and as close to the appliance as possible. PITA but it's a cost we need to include in the bid.


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## A Good Plumber (Jun 18, 2008)

By the way Westcoast, you did a nice job.


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## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

A Good Plumber said:


> I see that, but they have us increase the valve to full size of the gas delivery and reduce after the valve and as close to the appliance as possible. PITA but it's a cost we need to include in the bid.


 


This sounds weird, because when I sized it, I was 92 CF over, so really, I could have ended the 3/4" 10' away more then likely.

It is like running the trunk size to every fixture? am I making since or confusing the situation? 1" to the unit, and then reduce to 3/4" within a couple feet, sizing is done by 10' sections, not 2' sections, so what would the fixture value be of that section of 18"? or 24"?

maybe I am just confused my man. :yes:


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## Tankless (Jun 12, 2008)

WestCoastPlumber said:


> Wow, that passes down here in so cal. All the time. Right on the other side of the wall is a 1 x 3/4 90


That makes no sense to me. Must be a local ammendment. How would it work if half way along the 1" new line it gets sized down to 3/4" for the remainder because the pressure drop allows for proper CFH? I have seen 3" & 4" red bell down to 3/4" than to the valve / appliance...typically pool heating equiptment far away from the meter. Biggest I have ran to a tankless was 1 1/2" reduced to a 3/4" ball valve. I do however always use a full port ball valve. That is an odd ammendment.


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## WestCoastPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

There is a stamp on the valve, making it approved for gas, this valve is automaticaly full port, this is why it is stamped and approved for gas, it is also listed as being approved for gas, all in 1 little stamp....

I think it is the CSA stamp.

*For gas products in the U.S.*: The CSA Blue Star indicates the product is certified to applicable U.S. standards for appliances using gas or other petroleum fuel.

(From www.csa-international.org)
Wikipedia resource: CSA International


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## muck (Oct 10, 2008)

Very clean. nice job. I like to whipe the dope off too. Much better look


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

Nice looking work West Coast:thumbsup:


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