# Roto Hammers?



## Alan (Jun 18, 2008)

Today I tackled that shower and I had to rent a roto hammer. It cost me $60 to rent it which is obviously cheaper than buying a new one, but I would like the idea of not having to fight with some stupid piece of junk rental equipment when I need a tool like that, so this is probably something I need to have on my list for soon, not immediate.

Which hammers do you guys use/ like?

The one I used today was a bosch, and it did ok, but the bits kept falling out. I didn't really like the mechanism that locked them in.

We used to have a HILTI but it started having issues with the contactor that made it only start to hammer when it had pressure against something, so rather than fix, my boss bought a milwaukee SDS mad and I felt like it had a lot less power than the HILTI.

Curious what everyone else likes.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

I have a used Bosch that I bought from a retired electrician. Hammer or hammer drill you have to slam it hard a few times to get the hammer to hammer, but when it starts it does do a good job. My Master has an older hilti which performs without having to slam it, but once mine gets going is a bit heavier hitting.. never a problem with either chuck. My last Master had a hilti that was decent.

To have mine totally rebuilt with a 1 year warranty would cost $280 plus shipping. Half the cost of new for the same model new.

Never tried the Milwaukee.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

I own a bosch sds max. I consider it medium sized in breaking concrete. I decided to buy it because I had to chip my foundation to remove the old brick look alike finish. I used a few time after that. I do not consider it big enough to do a a new basement but I did one with it and also used in my basement. It will do the job but it has less power than a huge one.

It's not very old and used but last time I went to use it stopped working. I took it apart played with the gears to reset them and off it went again.Paid 800$ plus taxes. If I count the jobs I did with it I'm still a long way off. I hate to rent if I know a tool is good for the rest of my days and I will use it again.

Next time there is a sale I may be purchasing a bigger no name chipper at princess auto. However right now it is not needed for BWV yet.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

OpenSights said:


> Hammer or hammer drill you have to slam it hard a few times to get the hammer to hammer, but when it starts it does do a good job.
> 
> To have mine totally rebuilt with a 1 year warranty would cost $280 plus shipping. Half the cost of new for the same model new.
> 
> Never tried the Milwaukee.


Read my post, mine did the same thing. Be careful when you remove the gear cover it's full of gear oil. All you have to do is re-align the gear sequence and reassemble. Takes 20 minutes. Do not be temped to try to test it with the cover off. Trust me. :wink:


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

I have 2 older bosch rotary hammer drills, one about 25+ years old and a smaller one about 20 years old, both used a ton and still going strong..I think all newer tools just suck and dont last..


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## exclamation (Mar 11, 2013)

Maybe depends how much you will use and how much breaking per job is normal for you - Bosch when I was a helper and we were constantly chipping around fittings in tunnels and setting anchors for hangers - it gets pretty heavy after a while tho when you’re using it overhead a lot. Dewalt makes a pretty big one that can just about substitute for a jackhammer, but I wouldn’t want to break like a 20’ trench with it. These days I mostly use like a 90$ Makita hammer drill for anchors and the cheap ( ~120.00?) Milwaukee for small stuff like brick/mortar encased hose bibs or like a little 6” knockout if a tub trap needs to be changed or something small like that - bigger jobs would go to a sub for access/trenching


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## NyNick (Feb 14, 2013)




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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

exclamation said:


> Maybe depends how much you will use and how much breaking per job is normal for you - Bosch when I was a helper and we were constantly chipping around fittings in tunnels and setting anchors for hangers - it gets pretty heavy after a while tho when you’re using it overhead a lot. Dewalt makes a pretty big one that can just about substitute for a jackhammer, but I wouldn’t want to break like a 20’ trench with it. These days I mostly use like a 90$ Makita hammer drill for anchors and the cheap ( ~120.00?) Milwaukee for small stuff like brick/mortar encased hose bibs or like a little 6” knockout if a tub trap needs to be changed or something small like that - bigger jobs would go to a sub for access/trenching


When it was practical I used to drill a drop in anchor to the ceiling and tie the chipper with a rope.


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## Alan (Jun 18, 2008)

The bosch I used took me about 2 hours to get all the chipping done. The bathroom was already gutted when I was there, so it looks like changing a 36" stall with center drain to a 60" shower with a left hand drain. Don't ask me why they didnt get a right hand drain. I figured out where I wanted to go and drilled a 7/8" hole about every 8" and then broke it out.

I should have taken a picture for winners, but I found a 3" cleanout under the slab. It didnt even have tape or dope on it.

Im looking at all of these hammers and they have an impact rating. I'm going to have to compare that to what I'm used to and go from there.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

You can also dig under the slab and use a sledge hammer. Sometimes when the concrete is not crazy solid it's real easy.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

I know yall are gonna scoff at it, but I have one of the Harbor Freight Chicago Electric rotary chipping hammers. Have been using it for probably 6 years, still going strong. The key thing is, I'm the only person that uses it and I take care of stuff for the most part. It has actually outlasted the Bosch one we had. I tried looking on their site for the one I have but can't find it.


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## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

I've got a Dewalt demo hammer, it takes splined bits and kicks some ass. For small holes like drop in anchors, Milwaukee 18v SDS drill.


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## Alan (Jun 18, 2008)

chonkie said:


> I have one of the Harbor Freight Chicago Electric rotary chipping hammers.












(only because you said we were going to scoff)


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## Logtec (Jun 3, 2018)

Bosch RH540M 
Chipper/breaker, rotary hammer.
$600 cdn. 
I use this 2-3/month. Each time I use it, I charge the customer a “tool fee”, $50-$100.

It’s better to do this, then rent each time you need a spc. tool. Every time you used said tool, the job will end up paying for the tool, bits, and the maintance(if any) over and over...


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## Alan (Jun 18, 2008)

Logtec said:


> Bosch RH540M
> Chipper/breaker, rotary hammer.
> $600 cdn.
> I use this 2-3/month. Each time I use it, I charge the customer a “tool fee”, $50-$100.
> ...


I totally agree. Plus the reality is that it becomes a cost savings to the customer, because they aren't paying me to go rent the stupid thing, and fight with some piece of junk when I get back. Even if I charge the same price or more for a tool fee, they are saving.


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## Logtec (Jun 3, 2018)

Alan said:


> Logtec said:
> 
> 
> > Bosch RH540M
> ...


Agreed


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

chonkie said:


> I know yall are gonna scoff at it, but I have one of the Harbor Freight Chicago Electric rotary chipping hammers. Have been using it for probably 6 years, still going strong. The key thing is, I'm the only person that uses it and I take care of stuff for the most part. It has actually outlasted the Bosch one we had. I tried looking on their site for the one I have but can't find it.


one of my contractors has a bunch of harbor freight stuff and it lasts pretty good, he also has plenty of name brand tools that he uses all the time, i have a bunch of HF angle grinders and some other electric tools I dont use much . just use them for what they are and for the price its better than not having it..


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Logtec said:


> Bosch RH540M
> Chipper/breaker, rotary hammer.
> $600 cdn.
> I use this 2-3/month. Each time I use it, I charge the customer a “tool fee”, $50-$100.
> ...


I dont know how you guys charge customers tool fees and they agree to pay it, dont get me wrong the customer should pay what you need to make money, but it should be included in the price, unless your still doing T&M billing...If your in business you should have the tools you need and the price of the tool is built into the price of the job...if I brought my truck to a mechanic and he started adding in all the fees for a lift, tire machine, socket set and so on I would be outa there in a second, in the end the price may be the same somewhere else, but it seems a little scamish to add all those fees on..does a sewer guy add backhoe fees on when digging a new sewer?? but hey if you can get the customer to pay more power to you..do you wonder how many jobs you loose by those fees even though the other guy may be the same price or more?


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> I dont know how you guys charge customers tool fees and they agree to pay it, dont get me wrong the customer should pay what you need to make money, but it should be included in the price, unless your still doing T&M billing...If your in business you should have the tools you need and the price of the tool is built into the price of the job...if I brought my truck to a mechanic and he started adding in all the fees for a lift, tire machine, socket set and so on I would be outa there in a second, in the end the price may be the same somewhere else, but it seems a little scamish to add all those fees on..does a sewer guy add backhoe fees on when digging a new sewer?? but hey if you can get the customer to pay more power to you..do you wonder how many jobs you loose by those fees even though the other guy may be the same price or more?



I understand what you say and it's logical but what about this :

I do charge a tool fee for drain cleaning, the K-3800 is 85$. All other plumbers here do the same. Everyone is T&M.

It feels like it scares them less saying separate fees 165/hr plus 85$ on the phone than saying the first hour is 250$ and after that it's 165$. The number seems less when I say it seperatly.

Feel free to suggest advice and I would never flat rate on the phone (drain cleaning)or in person with all the hack plumbing I see.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Tango said:


> I understand what you say and it's logical but what about this :
> 
> I do charge a tool fee for drain cleaning, the K-3800 is 85$. All other plumbers here do the same. Everyone is T&M.
> 
> ...


if the area is like that and everyone does it then its the norm, remember when you would get a free cell phone with a 2 year contract? and now you pay for the phone with no contract, but you make payments or lease for 2 years, the cell companies figured out how to screw you on that..lol


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> if the area is like that and everyone does it then its the norm, remember when you would get a free cell phone with a 2 year contract? and now you pay for the phone with no contract, but you make payments or lease for 2 years, the cell companies figured out how to screw you on that..lol


True! I'll post a poll. If I post numbers in the business lounge. I fear I will not way less votes. then publicaly I'm not comfortable for everyone to see unless it doesn't really matter.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

We have like 5 of the sds max hiltis and 6 of the little ones. We have the large and small core bore setups too.


Very rarely have issues and our guys treat them like they would a native before they ship out.


We have bits for the big ones up to 3" though usually anything above 2-1/2" gets cored.


On my van I have a cordless makita that I have had zero issues with the last few years. I even bought this 40$ bosch chuck made by rohm that lets you hold round shank bits up to 1/2". Best buy ever. No more drilling holes for tapcons with my regular drill which means no more wrist pain from holding it for what seems like an eternity.


Having the cordless sds is just great. When I mount water filters to concrete walls I just use two 3/8" drop in anchors and bolt a piece of 2x6 board on the wall. Then I use the supplied lags to screw the hanger to the board. This lets me easily adjust the position of the filter if needed and holds it off the wall enough that it's easy to change. Before I got it I would have to use four really long tapcons. And drilling the holes with a regular drill took ages.


As far as charging for tools. We charge for stuff you'd probably have to rent otherwise or things which most plumbers don't have. Around here most don't snake or have a camera/pipe finder setup. And most don't core bore to the point that other plumbing companies will at time sub us out for coring even though we are their direct competition. When new con/reno is hopping around here we usually have a guy coring somewhere every other week.


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## Logtec (Jun 3, 2018)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> Logtec said:
> 
> 
> > Bosch RH540M
> ...


“Tool fee”= 
wear and tear on bits/blades/wheels etc., on specialty/large tools,
Special sockets, keys, tools, tamperproof tools etc..

Cutting tiles? that “diamond coated” cutting wheel- $50(been using the same one for 5 years)
Cutting cast iron with a sawzall? That blade- $50 makes (4-6 cuts before its useless

Customer Used draino on a drain that I snaked, or a really dirty drain-
$25 fee to clean my k-50 cables, $50 to “neutralize” the draino on my k-50 cables.

call me to remove your Moen cartridge that is jammed? Extra $25 specially tool fee.
Snap cutter, -$50
Small inspection camera -$50
Rotary hammer $50-$100
Chipping hammer $100



And #1 fee.....
if I have to suck my gut in, so I can squeeze behind your HWT to acces your plumbing... $100!!! 
(Kidding)


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> I dont know how you guys charge customers tool fees and they agree to pay it, dont get me wrong the customer should pay what you need to make money, but it should be included in the price, unless your still doing T&M billing...If your in business you should have the tools you need and the price of the tool is built into the price of the job...if I brought my truck to a mechanic and he started adding in all the fees for a lift, tire machine, socket set and so on I would be outa there in a second, in the end the price may be the same somewhere else, but it seems a little scamish to add all those fees on..does a sewer guy add backhoe fees on when digging a new sewer?? but hey if you can get the customer to pay more power to you..do you wonder how many jobs you loose by those fees even though the other guy may be the same price or more?


If you are a mechanic then no fee on a lift because you use it on pretty much all customers cars. Drain cleaner no machine fee because his machines get used on all jobs. 

Normal plumber goes to do a main sewer then yes charge a fee because the machine is used on very few of you're customers.

All my customers pay for my hand tools and standard tools like drills and cartridge remover because of 3 things.
1 they are not high priced items. 
2 there is a real chance I might need them when I get a call wether it be a leak or a remodel or a new house.
3 it benefits them that I have everything I might need to complete their job without running around to buy or rent tools.

Now why should all customers pay for my drain machine when it's a high priced item that there is no chance I might use on their house? Why should those few drain call customers not bear the burden of paying for those machines? 

A jackhammer for busting up concrete on a basement remodel is also a high priced item for special use. A jackhammer would also justify a tool fee or more likely it would be a bid job so the tool would be figured into the bid price.

Sent from my BLN-L24 using Tapatalk


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Logtec said:


> “Tool fee”=
> wear and tear on bits/blades/wheels etc., on specialty/large tools,
> Special sockets, keys, tools, tamperproof tools etc..
> 
> ...


Now that I dropped my rate quite a bit in hopes of gaining more customers on the phone. The tool fee seems a way to catch up. I only charge for the drain machine k-3800. I have more specialty tools than any other company and not to brag but I provide the best service it town as everything is done meticulously. So it bothers me to be in the average price range while I'm doing better work, being on time and most important I show up!

How do you tell the customer I need to use the mini cam and it will be 50$. Do you tell them upfront or don't tell them and write it down on the bill at the end when you count all the materials you used? Do people complain?

Another example would be the Moen cartridge puller, you tell them if you need to use it, it will be 25$ or when you are about take it out you tell them?


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

I have been flat rate from the beginning and my price includes all those costs, but under 1 price, I can see for T & M jobs all the add ons to cover costs because there is no place to make up that $$ without having your hourly rate go through the roof.....in the end its the same, so I guess its what the norm in your area is...


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

I noticed that flat rate is more profitable in some cases but I noticed customers have a sticker shock when you say to replace your kitchen faucet you need to put in new valves, speedways and hammer arrestors the price is 500$ 

They are going to freak out, it's happened to me several times and want me to leave. When I say the the hourly rate example(330$ for labor)plus 120$ in materials plus taxes they seem to latch on those single numbers and don't add it up. They complain less when they receive the bill.

Anyone else want to chime on this?


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## Alan (Jun 18, 2008)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> do you wonder how many jobs you loose by those fees even though the other guy may be the same price or more?


If you are busy enough with customers who are willing to pay the additional fees, then the reality is that losing those other jobs doesn't matter much.

The other way to look at it is that you are able to keep your service rates lower by charging a fee for the tools when they are required. If you had to build that into your overhead, then everybody would be paying 10-20% more on the hourly service fee. Sort of the same concept on the hour minimum. If I only charge for a 15 minute call every time i drive somewhere because I was only in your house for 15 minutes, i'm going to have to charge more than my current rate to make up the difference.

I'm sure there are multiple schools of thought on that last one as well, but it makes sense to me.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

I think the comparison to a vehicle mechanic holds. The only plus for mechanics is that most people either know how a vehicle works or they resign themselves to ignorance. With plumbing there are qute a few customers who think they and are just wrong. Also everyone goes to a mechanic all the time. Very few people can do all the work to their own vehicle.

And many shops do charge for the use of specialised tools. Not all shops resurface rotors or service a/c systems, or do full front end alignments and those that do usually have some sort of fee.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

I think the comparison to a vehicle mechanic holds. The only plus for mechanics is that most people either know how a vehicle works or they resign themselves to ignorance. With plumbing there are qute a few customers who think they and are just wrong. Also everyone goes to a mechanic all the time. Very few people can do all the work to their own vehicle. This means most people have a vague idea of how many hundreds of dollars it will cost and wont argue that they could have had their cousin do it for 100$.

And many shops do charge for the use of specialised tools. Not all shops resurface rotors or service a/c systems, or do full front end alignments and those that do usually have some sort of fee.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

it all comes down to the sell..the customer that likes the initial cheaper price then drops dead when you hand the total bill over or the customer that accepts your price will be the whole job done for that price and not get blind sided by some T & M bill when you add all the extras...whatever way the customer likes will be who you pull in for business...


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## Logtec (Jun 3, 2018)

Tango said:


> Logtec said:
> 
> 
> > “Tool fee”=
> ...


Do they complain? Not really I’m really honest, transparent and up front with my pricing. 
Don’t like my pricing,? Good I’ll walk. 
I’m too busy for low ballers, they can call a handyman.

“Trace and locate a leak”= $200+ 
Sales pitch: ($50 inspection camera)
I can drill a few small 1” holes in your drywall, to allow access for a small inspection camera, use to see inside the wall/floor/ceiling to find a leak... or I could just cut open random 6”x6” holes which will cost a lot to fix after the plumbing repair.
Drilling small holes Is cheaper to fix, 
And cutting a few holes in dry wall, will cost way more to fix then a $50 inspection camera fee.

Moen cartridge puller:
for some reason get a lot of calls for ppl who have watched YouTube vids and tried to change their Moen cartridges...
99% of these calles are because the cartridges “rubber sides” are buckled/jammbed, which needs a lot of leverage to pull out...

When that call comes in,
I quote $120-$140 labour, and a “special tool fee”= $25 (in this situation) for the cartridge puller(I use to use vice grips with a long screw driver for leverage).
99% of those customers are are fed up wives, DIYers or ashamed husbands that had to call a real man in to fix their problem... 
so they’ve given up and just want it fixed.
When they see me pull out the “cartridge puller”, they’re all like:
“ohhh... yeah- hahaha, ha ....hahaha, you need a special too. I didn’t know that! He heheh he ...... 
I tried this and that blah blah.. 
that great that you have the puller.

So this service call= 
15- 20mins=
$140 lab,
$25 cart.tool,
$45 Moen cartridge, 
$10 silicone(to seal trim plate.
=
$220 (+HST) -not bad of less then 30 min.


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## Fatpat (Nov 1, 2015)

Back on topic haha
I have a makita 37# chipping gun that does everything I would tackle on my own haha

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-...1-Bull-Point-and-Hard-Case-HM1307CB/202659728


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

I had to drill through a new foundation because the a$$hole cement guy didnt put a sleeve in the forms, used a 4inch core bit in my bosch rotary hammer, did good till I hit rebar..lol...then I chopped around it and used a sawsall to cut out the rebar..I had to sleeve the gas line with pvc pipe going through the foundation..


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## Alan (Jun 18, 2008)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> I had to drill through a new foundation because the a$$hole cement guy didnt put a sleeve in the forms.


Let me guess :

"I didn't know where you wanted it."

That **** used to drive me up the wall.

Option 1 (least preferable) : put one SOMEWHERE and put it as low as possible, giving the most likelihood that it is useable.

Option 2 : Ask me. If I don't give you an answer then it's my own stupid fault.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

I had a shower slab to break this friday and brought my small bosch chipper. I had fixed it last time by re-aligning the gears inside. This time it just didn't hammer from the start. I pulled the cover and played with the gears for over an hour. NO GO!

I had to chip with a cold chisel. I got lucky this time I didn't have to go deep. It made me realize I need to charge a lot more for a basement shower and I need to have the chipper fixed and last I also need to get a bigger jack hammer. 

Check this off brand and let me know if you would buy it. The shanks however are not compatible with what you can get in stores. So if it breaks or I need a spade for example I just can't go to to HD and get a replacement. However I will rarely use it. The smaller model of this model had standard shanks but have less impact to break concrete.



https://www.amazon.ca/TR-Industrial...TF8&qid=1547994418&sr=8-4&keywords=jackhammer


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Tango said:


> I had a shower slab to break this friday and brought my small bosch chipper. I had fixed it last time by re-aligning the gears inside. This time it just didn't hammer from the start. I pulled the cover and played with the gears for over an hour. NO GO!
> 
> I had to chip with a cold chisel. I got lucky this time I didn't have to go deep. It made me realize I need to charge a lot more for a basement shower and I need to have the chipper fixed and last I also need to get a bigger jack hammer.
> 
> ...



sounds like an off brand junk....Bosch for rotory hammers....do you have any harbor freights in canada? one of the contractors bought a rotory hammer from harbor freight and likes it alot and has put it through its paces and has held up and uses universal bits you can get anywhere, I would soon buy a harbor freight unit and get the warranty on it, so if it fails you get a new one or your money back..
the tool on amazon has 3 reviews, then they put a big list of reviews under those with no way of knowing what tool those reviews are for..DONT BUY THAT...


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Alan said:


> Let me guess :
> 
> "I didn't know where you wanted it."
> 
> ...



actually no, the spots were marked out and gone over with cement a$$hole ..he just didnt give a $hit, and he screwed up all over the place, including knocking the cribbing out from one corner of the house and it dropped 5 feet, and one of the workers had to try and use the skid steer to get it back up, homeowner has this all on video..cement guy never came back and home owner had to hire another cement guy to finish driveways and walk ways..


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Makita XRH04Z https://www.ebay.com/itm/292922591525


That's what I own and keep on the van. We have like 10 sds-plus and sds-max hiltis in the tool crib at work. The big ones have never let us down and if you are serious that is what you should go with. They hold their value really well so just clean it when you are done and a couple years down the road you can still sell it and get most of your money back.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hilti-1...ihammer-Performance-Package-3553052/301364683 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hilti-1...PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-301364683-_-205116558-_-N


We have the te-70s for our large ones but the te-50 looks alright. For 800$ that probably wouldnt be too bad.






.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> sounds like an off brand junk....Bosch for rotory hammers....do you have any harbor freights in canada? one of the contractors bought a rotory hammer from harbor freight and likes it alot and has put it through its paces and has held up and uses universal bits you can get anywhere, I would soon buy a harbor freight unit and get the warranty on it, so if it fails you get a new one or your money back..
> the tool on amazon has 3 reviews, then they put a big list of reviews under those with no way of knowing what tool those reviews are for..DONT BUY THAT...


We have princess auto, the jack hammer was on sale 2 weeks ago and I passed on it with the one I linked to. It seems better and stronger. There's also on amazon almost identical copies to bosch.

I'm not buying a brand name for a jack hammer. Just my Bosch has probably less than 10 hours on it and it's already kaput. I bet I won't need it more than once every 2 years or something as basement renos usually end up 99% of the time to pirates.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Tango said:


> We have princess auto, the jack hammer was on sale 2 weeks ago and I passed on it with the one I linked to. It seems better and stronger. There's also on amazon almost identical copies to bosch.
> 
> I'm not buying a brand name for a jack hammer. Just my Bosch has probably less than 10 hours on it and it's already kaput. I bet I won't need it more than once every 2 years or something as basement renos usually end up 99% of the time to pirates.



the sad thing is many of the newer tools from good companies( well good years ago)suck..I have 2 bosch rotory hammers one over 25 years old and another over 15 years old, beat the crap out of both and still work great and never needed repairs, just regular maintenance, greasing and cleaning and brushes on the older one, I do all my own tool and equipment repair..


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> the sad thing is many of the newer tools from good companies( well good years ago)suck..I have 2 bosch rotory hammers one over 25 years old and another over 15 years old, beat the crap out of both and still work great and never needed repairs, just regular maintenance, greasing and cleaning and brushes on the older one, I do all my own tool and equipment repair..


I do my own repairs too except this time I know the piston is not reaching the end of the bit. It must be worn out, not sure where to get parts for that.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Tango said:


> I do my own repairs too except this time I know the piston is not reaching the end of the bit. It must be worn out, not sure where to get parts for that.



there are a ton of online parts suppliers for power tools, and try ebay..


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

I think I found the problem with my Bosch 11240 not hammering. There's a cavity between the piston and percussion hammer. So the O-ring probably dried out and let oil either in or out and there's no more pressure in the chamber.

I'm gong to see if I can order it locally because on ebay its way more expensive with ebay's rip off fees.

Replacement Service Pack (35USD...1 million dollars Canadian)# 1617000A16

I'm still going to order a larger no name brand chipper on amazon.


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## Fatpat (Nov 1, 2015)

I have these two:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-...le-Bull-Point-and-Hard-Case-HM1203C/202900215


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-...1-Bull-Point-and-Hard-Case-HM1307CB/202659728

I got them both on sale at different times and they have been excellent!


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Fatpat said:


> I have these two:
> 
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-...le-Bull-Point-and-Hard-Case-HM1203C/202900215
> 
> ...



Unfortunately the bigger chipper of the two in your link would cost me 1694$(taxes included) Damn its a big price difference! almost 800$ more!


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## Fatpat (Nov 1, 2015)

Tango said:


> Fatpat said:
> 
> 
> > I have these two:
> ...


That’s wild!


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Fatpat said:


> That’s wild!


I bet it's the same thing...

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.demolition-hammer.1000718627.html


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Tango said:


> I bet it's the same thing...
> 
> https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.demolition-hammer.1000718627.html



geez that suxs...


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> geez that suxs...


Yes it sux, If I was down down south I'd have a new van, and cool brand tools. I get by with a mix of used tools, chinese copies and brand names. I get along fine.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Which of these 2 would you buy? The first one in pale blue/green looks awfully close to a makita and even a bosch, maybe it's a close copy without the brand name.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MFGNIQL...olid=1TDND9V0QHFEW&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it


https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01JSNCU84...olid=1TDND9V0QHFEW&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it



Close resemblance!
https://shop.goldpeaktools.com.ph/products/bosch-gsh-16-30-demolition-jackhammer


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Tango said:


> Yes it sux, If I was down down south I'd have a new van, and cool brand tools. I get by with a mix of used tools, chinese copies and brand names. I get along fine.


just change your name to mexican sounding and you can come here and get it all for free....:vs_laugh:


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Tango said:


> Which of these 2 would you buy? The first one in pale blue/green looks awfully close to a makita and even a bosch, maybe it's a close copy without the brand name.
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MFGNIQL...olid=1TDND9V0QHFEW&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
> 
> ...





I wouldnt buy neither of them, but you can if you want to gamble with your $$...the 1st one is over $200 in shipping alone....
can you get parts to fix them? only 3 reviews on one and none on the other....good luck if you do..


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> I wouldnt buy neither of them, but you can if you want to gamble with your $$...the 1st one is over $200 in shipping alone....
> can you get parts to fix them? only 3 reviews on one and none on the other....good luck if you do..


Shipping is free. It shows shipping to your location. There's a few reviews on amazon.com, I wanted to show what i would have to pay for it.

Parts, I doubt it. Might as well try to rent one if the case arises, I don't think I'll get a BWV or basement reno anytime soon.


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## Jared55 (Jan 24, 2019)

the TR Industrial demolisher seems to be a reliable thing according to the feedbacks on Amazon. You should pay attention on how will it handle long hour operation in hot summer conditions. Also it doesn't fit Makita, Milwaukee, Bosch, Dewalt or Hitachi hammers if it makes any difference to you.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Jared55 said:


> the TR Industrial demolisher seems to be a reliable thing according to the feedbacks on Amazon. You should pay attention on how will it handle long hour operation in hot summer conditions. Also it doesn't fit Makita, Milwaukee, Bosch, Dewalt or Hitachi hammers if it makes any difference to you.


Ahem, post an intro to see your credentials. Professional site only.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Tango said:


> Ahem, post an intro to see your credentials. Professional site only.


he wants to see your tool and maybe handle it to see how it feels in his hands...:vs_laugh::vs_laugh::vs_laugh::vs_laugh::vs_laugh::vs_laugh:


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> he wants to see your tool and maybe handle it to see how it feels in his hands...:vs_laugh::vs_laugh::vs_laugh::vs_laugh::vs_laugh::vs_laugh:


I think you read my Jared comment in the other thread. :wink: I have enough trouble with the wrangler's no need for more " stiff tools".


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

I 100% would buy another one of these Chicago Electric ones from HF before I spent good money on the others. I use the crap out of mine and have for well over 6 years. Our nice Bosch didn't last, the big one he bought (can't remember the name brand) didn't last.

I'm all for quality tools. But most are just a name and it cost more. Phuck that. It's ALL made in china now so why even bother worrying about that. Honestly, i would bet most people in china have more pride in their work than most americans. Heck, they would probably be killed if they didn't.

Most stuff made in china is in like this one HUGE factory and it's own town. The people work there, live there, social stuff there. Like the factory life is all they know. It's a self contained world and they are pretty strict on how things are made to the clients standards. That client standard is where sh!t goes south because most US companies are about their bottom line. A lot of american brands will come from this one factory.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Tango, do yall have HF or similar in your area?


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Documentary about the factory I was talking about just to give yall a better idea of that Made in China label.


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## MACPLUMB777 (Jun 18, 2008)

Jared55 said:


> the TR Industrial demolisher seems to be a reliable thing according to the feedbacks on Amazon. You should pay attention on how will it handle long hour operation in hot summer conditions. Also it doesn't fit Makita, Milwaukee, Bosch, Dewalt or Hitachi hammers if it makes any difference to you.




An intro is requested from all new members. In case you missed it, here is the link. https://www.plumbingzone.com/f3/.

The PZ is for Plumbing Professionals ( those engaged in the plumbing profession)

Post an intro and tell our members where you are from, yrs in the trade, and your area(s) of expertise in the plumbing field.

This info helps members who are waiting to welcome you to the best plumbing site there is.

We look forward to your valuable input.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

chonkie said:


> I 100% would buy another one of these Chicago Electric ones from HF before I spent good money on the others. I use the crap out of mine and have for well over 6 years. Our nice Bosch didn't last, the big one he bought (can't remember the name brand) didn't last.
> 
> I'm all for quality tools. But most are just a name and it cost more. Phuck that. It's ALL made in china now so why even bother worrying about that. Honestly, i would bet most people in china have more pride in their work than most americans. Heck, they would probably be killed if they didn't.
> 
> Most stuff made in china is in like this one HUGE factory and it's own town. The people work there, live there, social stuff there. Like the factory life is all they know. It's a self contained world and they are pretty strict on how things are made to the clients standards. That client standard is where sh!t goes south because most US companies are about their bottom line. A lot of american brands will come from this one factory.



one of the contractors I work for now buys all harbor freight tools, he buys 2 at a time just incase one dies while he is working, so far none have died while using them and the cost of 2 is still way below what 1 of a name brand would cost..I have a bunch of harbor freight tools and would buy hem before i would buy some noname made in china stuff off amazon...


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

chonkie said:


> Documentary about the factory I was talking about just to give yall a better idea of that Made in China label.
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/lKseBx1YPgo



the problem with made in china stuff is that the actual components that the production lines use have a wide range of quality, and in a cheap item they use cheap parts that fail, depending on the quality of component wanted it can be from high quality to complete junk..depending on the expected life of a product is what quality part they use.....harbor freight themselves have several levels of quality tool they sell, some lines last much better than others, but at least you have a store to return defective items and the option to buy a extended warranty from them..
but that is an impressive factory complex, almost run like a military...


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Tango said:


> Which of these 2 would you buy? The first one in pale blue/green looks awfully close to a makita and even a bosch, maybe it's a close copy without the brand name.
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MFGNIQL...olid=1TDND9V0QHFEW&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
> 
> ...





I would get one with standard shank bits. The second says it only accepts their bits which might be garbage. You could also argue that they intend to keep selling you bits which could only be done if their machine didn't fail so I guess there is that.








.


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## ECH (Jul 27, 2018)

What are my options for a hammer drill that can do 2in holes?

That is mainly what I would use it for, some chipping, but mostly for 1.5in pvc sleeves in foundations for water mains or t and p discharges.

Cordless is a big plus, I have Milwaukee batteries. I see sds max coring bits of that size, but the price of the cordless sds max is pretty high for something so specialized in what I would use it for. The cordless sds plus version price is doable, but I am a bit confused on whether sds plus bits go up to 2in. The specs on the drill itself say it can handle that size coring bit, but are they available in sds plus?


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

ECH said:


> What are my options for a hammer drill that can do 2in holes?
> 
> That is mainly what I would use it for, some chipping, but mostly for 1.5in pvc sleeves in foundations for water mains or t and p discharges.
> 
> Cordless is a big plus, I have Milwaukee batteries. I see sds max coring bits of that size, but the price of the cordless sds max is pretty high for something so specialized in what I would use it for. The cordless sds plus version price is doable, but I am a bit confused on whether sds plus bits go up to 2in. The specs on the drill itself say it can handle that size coring bit, but are they available in sds plus?



SDS plus only go to 1-1/4". I wish it would go to 1 5/8" so I could easily drill exterior faucets. I use the smaller bit and fool around till I get it big enough, it's frustrating. I will get a SDS max bit, cut it off and weld it to a SDS plus shank.


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## ECH (Jul 27, 2018)

If using a coring type bit, you can go bigger, thats my understanding.......

Here is a link to the milwaukee, thin wall core bit capacity is 2.5in.....

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Concrete/SDS-Plus/2712-20#sp-specs


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

ECH said:


> If using a coring type bit, you can go bigger, thats my understanding.......
> 
> Here is a link to the milwaukee, thin wall core bit capacity is 2.5in.....
> 
> https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Concrete/SDS-Plus/2712-20#sp-specs



for what you pay for a core bit and shank you may as well spend the money and buy a bigger rotory hammer...


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## ECH (Jul 27, 2018)

The 2in core bit is $74, shank is $34, shank works for many other sizes, so that's not too bad. For what I do, service plumbing, that covers everything I have run into so far. 2in for sleeves, 3/16 for anchors, chipper for occasional hose bib holes that need opened up for frost free.

I bought the Milwaukee Cordless sds plus drill, a 3/16 bit, and a 3/4 chisel bit today. And used it to sleeve for t and p on a lowboy in a crawl. I drilled perimeter holes and chipped it out to get to 2in. Worked perfect. Only used about 1/4 battery.

It went through a layer of brick and one side of the block inner wall like butter. I had to take measurement's and open the hole on the other side and connect, but that wont be necessary when I get the core bit.

It is light enough to drill anchors with one hand and put the inserts in with the other. I'm super happy with it so far. And it will always be with me, never have to worry about where the shops Bosch and 2in bit is. I lost an hour today waiting at the shop (was there to pick up heater and fittings) for the guy that had the bit to bring it back. 

On the way to the job I stopped for anchors and said "screw it, I'm getting my own hammer drill. Started using it knowing I had the bosch for backup, but didn't come close to needing it.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

ECH said:


> The 2in core bit is $74, shank is $34, shank works for many other sizes, so that's not too bad. For what I do, service plumbing, that covers everything I have run into so far. 2in for sleeves, 3/16 for anchors, chipper for occasional hose bib holes that need opened up for frost free.
> 
> I bought the Milwaukee Cordless sds plus drill, a 3/16 bit, and a 3/4 chisel bit today. And used it to sleeve for t and p on a lowboy in a crawl. I drilled perimeter holes and chipped it out to get to 2in. Worked perfect. Only used about 1/4 battery.
> 
> ...



thats not too bad, years back I had to buy a 4 inch core bit and shank...it was alot more than that..


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