# shower drain help



## plumb nutz

I need a tool to tighten the retaining nut on a no caulk shower drain. The fiberglass shower sits @ 1" AFF and goes through @ 3" of slab. All the holes are off center which not only makes getting the nut onto the drain body fun, but impossible to get a wrench into the cavity to tighten the nut...

I have been currently using a 3' piece of 1/2" copper bent in a "V" to tighten but would like something better if anyone has any ideas...


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## plumb nutz

Here is a pic of the situation


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## GREENPLUM

http://www.accentshopping.com/product.asp?P_ID=154258









   
*Shower Drain Wrench*

This shower drain wrench from Oatey is for use with Oatey No-Calk Shower Drains. The wrench is 1/2" hex and chrome. It works on all models on No-Calk drains. The Oatey product number is 42239.


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## GREENPLUM

nevermind, next time ill read the whole post


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## SlickRick

Are you replacing the drain?


http://www.wingtite.com/


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## plumb nutz

SlickRick said:


> Are you replacing the drain?
> 
> http://www.wingtite.com/


That would be nice but it has to be brass since I'm connecting to CI...

Maybe I should remember to post that next time...


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## hroark2112

Take a short piece of 3" pipe and cut the end so that it has 2 nubs sticking up. Here's what it should look like:










Tighten it with a pipe wrench.

Will this work??


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## plumb nutz

I tried that, thanks, no the biggest issue is the drain being off center of the hole, thus the nut is above finished floor...

I actually have 2 tools drawn up for this bit haven't had them made and was kinda hoping something was out there I haven't seen before...


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## bartnc37

I've got an over sized ridgid basin wrench that would probably fit in there. I use it for tightening the slip nuts on tub wastes from below. It should grab the tabs on the drain nut. Not sure of the model number its in my work truck


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## Richard Hilliard

They make a basket strainer wrench for the 3 and 1/2 inch strainer that is a flat bar and is about 12 inches long I wonder if that would work.


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## Plumber Jim

How about one of these:










http://quinbyhardware.com/Products/Detail?LookupID=5525613&
DepartmentSearch=10&CategorySearch=0&InStore=0










http://www.oneclickdirect.com/catalog/product_page/35185/Plumber's+Pal+Basket+Strainer+Wrench.html










http://www.faucetpartsplus.com/product_p/684179.htm

I have the first and last one. I don't own one like in the middle.


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## plumb nutz

I picked up an adjustable slip nut wrench that goes to 3" and it was a hair short along with the angle, it really didn't help too much...

I did see the basin wrench on ridgid website... I think I'm going to try it though it says it maximum size was 2 1/2" hopefully I can catch it just right...

Thanks for the help y'all...


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## hroark2112

Just a silly question....

Why didn't you put it on before you set the unit??


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## plumb nutz

Because it was already there, leaking...

I'm the guy they call to fix the leaking drain...


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## hroark2112

Makes sense.

Any way you can use a large flathead screwdriver on it?


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## plumb nutz

Maybe if I had three hands..?

It works like this:
Remove CI
Cut old drain off with recripricating saw
Place new drain body into outlet of shower enclosure
Run downstairs and tighten nut... during this you have to hold the body still with one hand and tighten with the other
Recollect drain and pray it don't leak

The end...


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## Richard Hilliard

Can you heat the nut and then set the nut while hot on 3 inch pvc pipe to make a wrench with slots for the rings??


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## Redwood

I really like these:

Davke 3000 No Hub Shower Drain




















Sioux Chief has a similar product called the JackRabbit but it is not a no hub....

Sioux Chief JackRabbit


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## plumb nutz

Those are nice, buy alas, the hole for the drain is off meaning the nut is partially above the finished floor making it impossible to tighten the screws...

Now one that could be screwed from above... wait... disregard that...


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## ToUtahNow

plumb nutz said:


> I need a tool to tighten the retaining nut on a no caulk shower drain. The fiberglass shower sits @ 1" AFF and goes through @ 3" of slab. All the holes are off center which not only makes getting the nut onto the drain body fun, but impossible to get a wrench into the cavity to tighten the nut...
> 
> I have been currently using a 3' piece of 1/2" copper bent in a "V" to tighten but would like something better if anyone has any ideas...



Have the guy who did the floor come back out and give you more room. That way it won't be your fault when/if it leaks. The alternative is to try to make it work and own the whole thing.

Mark


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## plumb nutz

ToUtahNow said:


> Have the guy who did the floor come back out and give you more room. That way it won't be your fault when/if it leaks. The alternative is to try to make it work and own the whole thing.
> 
> Mark


I would if it wasn't repairing and existing drain


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## PLUMBER_BILL

plumb nutz said:


> I would if it wasn't repairing and existing drain


You need to make more room. Take a saber saw not a sawsall fabricate a block for the shoe of the saw, thick enough to keep the blade from hitting the fiberglass. Cut away the sub floor. Then you can use any one of the wenches shown.


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## ironandfire

Change the rough-in. (Other wise your a pipe fighter.:blink


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## Widdershins

Is this a slab on grade, or is it a post tension slab?

Is it a pan or a stall?

When you say cast iron, is it No-Hub or bell and spigot?


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## plumb nutz

It's a slab floor on a multi level retirement home. It's a full on shower enclosure, pulling the shower to increase the size of the hole is not an option either is trying to bust the floor from underneath...

I got skills with my recip. saw, but not my little chippen-hammer...

It is no hub underneath, and if it wasn't a plenum ceiling I'd throw in a pvc drain and connect to the existing because the retaining nut is larger and easier to work with...

I've done 12 of these replacements, its going to be an on going repair issue in the 1200 room complex so I'm just trying to find something easier and quicker (normally takes @1.5 hrs)


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## Widdershins

plumb nutz said:


> It's a slab floor on a multi level retirement home. It's a full on shower enclosure, pulling the shower to increase the size of the hole is not an option either is trying to bust the floor from underneath...
> 
> I got skills with my recip. saw, but not my little chippen-hammer...
> 
> It is no hub underneath, and if it wasn't a plenum ceiling I'd throw in a pvc drain and connect to the existing because the retaining nut is larger and easier to work with...
> 
> I've done 12 of these replacements, its going to be an on going repair issue in the 1200 room complex so I'm just trying to find something easier and quicker (normally takes @1.5 hrs)



What about having a coring company come in and enlarge the hole from the underside? Is that doable?


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## Widdershins

plumb nutz said:


> That would be nice but it has to be brass since I'm connecting to CI...
> 
> Maybe I should remember to post that next time...


 The Wing-Tite can be connected to cast iron, PN.


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## plumb nutz

We have a core drill, but the issues is we don't want to be responsible for any accidental damage to the shower. They are a project to replace as the walls are double drywalled and the bathroom walls were built around the enclosure...

I'm really just hoping to find a wrench to help tightened the nut...

It would be a very hard sell to get them to ok an additional cost of a core driller since I've already replaced so many...

The large basin wrench might work, if not I'll just have to have my tools fabbed up...


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## Widdershins

plumb nutz said:


> We have a core drill, but the issues is we don't want to be responsible for any accidental damage to the shower. They are a project to replace as the walls are double drywalled and the bathroom walls were built around the enclosure...
> 
> I'm really just hoping to find a wrench to help tightened the nut...
> 
> It would be a very hard sell to get them to ok an additional cost of a core driller since I've already replaced so many...
> 
> The large basin wrench might work, if not I'll just have to have my tools fabbed up...


 I think you should investigate the Wing-Tite. I've used them a few times for both no hub and steel without any issues.

The hardest part about the installs was chipping away enough concrete through the drain holes to accommodate the wings.


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## rocksteady

Do you have access to a torch/plasma/laser to cut metal? Make a cardboard template of the shower drain nut and cut a piece of 1/4" steel that looks like the business end of this, without the handle but to the dimensions that would fit the nut on the shower drain.










Then weld a piece of square stock to it at 90 degrees, like a non adjustable basin wrench. This will work with only half of the nut exposed and won't be a disposalbe tool; you could use it on the next one you find.







Paul


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## plumb nutz

rocksteady said:


> Do you have access to a torch/plasma/laser to cut metal? Make a cardboard template of the shower drain nut and cut a piece of 1/4" steel that looks like the business end of this, without the handle but to the dimensions that would fit the nut on the shower drain.
> 
> Then weld a piece of square stock to it at 90 degrees, like a non adjustable basin wrench. This will work with only half of the nut exposed and won't be a disposalbe tool; you could use it on the next one you find.
> 
> Paul


That's been a plan of mine for awhile, but since we don't have any of those nice tools I've been dragging my a** on getting to the fab shop...

I guess its something i'll have to do and have them mock up a few other things for me...

Thanks again for all y'alls help...


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## Widdershins

plumb nutz said:


> That's been a plan of mine for awhile, but since we don't have any of those nice tools I've been dragging my a** on getting to the fab shop...
> 
> I guess its something i'll have to do and have them mock up a few other things for me...
> 
> Thanks again for all y'alls help...



Curious.

What's your issue with the Wing-Tites?


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## plbgbiz

Widdershins said:


> Curious.
> 
> What's your issue with the Wing-Tites?


I've only had two wingtites fail. But I've only tried them two times. Maybe I should have read the instructions.


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## Widdershins

plbgbiz said:


> I've only had two wingtites fail. But I've only tried them two times. Maybe I should have read the instructions.


Silicone or putty?


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## plumb nutz

I'm going to get the boss man to order one to see if we can install it... we'll see...

Just to put it out there, these drains are only 10-12 years old and the putty has already failed, so uh... yea... I'm trying silicone...


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## Redwood

plbgbiz said:


> I've only had two wingtites fail. But I've only tried them two times. Maybe I should have read the instructions.


Sounds like you either need to glue them in with sillycone or buy better drains... :laughing:


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## rvaughnp

How about taking the nut from the drain to one of these metal water jet companies, have them cut something like this:









It’s not patented or anything.:laughing:


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## Redwood

rvaughnp said:


> How about taking the nut from the drain to one of these metal water jet companies, have them cut something like this:
> 
> It’s not patented or anything.:laughing:


That should cost a couple of bux...:laughing:


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