# 3/8 flair to 1/2 NPT?



## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Yes I work with flair inside the home, but not on LP tanks. In a few weeks I’ll be heading north for our annual week at our neighbors cabin. This years project is installing a used cradle and two 100# tanks. I need to delete the existing 3/8 line and install lightning strike.

My LP guy probably has the fittings to go from 3/8 f to 1/2 npt mip. Any suggestions if he doesn’t on line source? I doubt my supply houses doesn’t.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Forgot pics...


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

look here..


https://www.supplyhouse.com/Flare-Fittings-12970000


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

OpenSights said:


> Yes I work with flair inside the home, but not on LP tanks. In a few weeks I’ll be heading north for our annual week at our neighbors cabin. This years project is installing a used cradle and two 100# tanks. I need to delete the existing 3/8 line and install lightning strike.
> 
> My LP guy probably has the fittings to go from 3/8 f to 1/2 npt mip. Any suggestions if he doesn’t on line source? I doubt my supply houses doesn’t.


If you're not using copper why do you need to go from 3/8" flare to something else? *Are you under the impression that the fitting in that regulator shouldn't be removed?*

Should just be a regular npt thread in that regulator, looks like 3/8", might be 1/2".

.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

OpenSights said:


> Yes I work with flair inside the home, but not on LP tanks.....




If you're not using it for gas what are you using it for? 



I have seen a few houses with flare on the water lines but didn't think it was ever a thing that caught on much. Kind of like the old timey version of a homeowner using a sharkbite. Flaring is much easier than soldering for most people to start with. Also back in the day many tractors and automobiles had flare fittings for hydraulic/brake lines so I imagine many old guys already had a flare tool.






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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

skoronesa said:


> If you're not using it for gas what are you using it for?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Flair as in hooking up appliances. I've never flared any copper gas line.

I’m going to bring all kinds of options!


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

OpenSights said:


> .........I've never flared any copper gas line..........



So you use compression fittings? Solder?!


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

OpenSights said:


> Flair as in hooking up appliances. I've never flared any copper gas line.
> 
> I’m going to bring all kinds of options!


copper used on LP needs to be flared...


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> copper used on LP needs to be flared...


I want to go from the regulator straight to gas tite, no copper.


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## Plumbus (Aug 4, 2008)

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin...VcNJPxOgHly-mscd33qJGKZHvZr9nOyEaAi8aEALw_wcB

or 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/PlumbPro-3-8-in-x-1-2-in-Brass-Flare-x-Male-Adapter-00512/202275482

https://www.lowes.com/pd/BrassCraft-3-8-in-x-1-2-in-Threaded-Flare-x-MIP-Adapter-Fitting/50380840

https://www.amazon.com/Compression-...D0VTFXM0T3J&psc=1&refRID=V9F2C1N02D0VTFXM0T3J


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## Toli (Nov 7, 2015)

Isn’t that an IPS x flare adapter screwed in that regulator? Take it out screw in whatever you need and you’re off and running.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Toli said:


> Isn’t that an IPS x flare adapter screwed in that regulator? Take it out screw in whatever you need and you’re off and running.


That’s what I’m unsure of. Is it 1/2”, or some barstered size/thread? The only places for material is Home Depot and Ace hardware stores.


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## Toli (Nov 7, 2015)

OpenSights said:


> That’s what I’m unsure of. Is it 1/2”, or some barstered size/thread? The only places for material is Home Depot and Ace hardware stores.



I’d bet Tango’s paycheck it’s IPS. Can’t tell the size for sure, but another one of tango’s paycheck says it’s 1/4” or 3/8”.


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

OpenSights said:


> I want to go from the regulator straight to gas tite, no copper.


Like this? :devil3:


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Debo22 said:


> Like this? :devil3:


Perfect! Thanks!


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## Toli (Nov 7, 2015)

Debo22 said:


> Like this? :devil3:



Gonna be waiting a while for gas out of that!


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

home depot sells those fittings


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

gear junkie said:


> home depot sells those fittings





His problem isn't getting the fittings now, it's where he will be. He is going to a cabin in the woods with no stores around so he is wondering what he should buy now, not where he should buy them from.






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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

skoronesa said:


> His problem isn't getting the fittings now, it's where he will be. He is going to a cabin in the woods with no stores around so he is wondering what he should buy now, not where he should buy them from.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


a few feet of garden hose and a few hose clamps should do..if it goes boom its out in the woods no neighbors will get hurt...


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> a few feet of garden hose and a few hose clamps should do..if it goes boom its out in the woods no neighbors will get hurt...


Naw. If I can’t fix it with what I bring, I figure I’ll just use some keg lines. They can handle the psi.


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## Venomthirst (Jun 20, 2018)

Flaring copper is incredibly easy and can hold alot of pressure... i believe 600psi if not more... brake lines are a different flare and can hold 2000+ psi..

Gas tite is way too expensive... for me 
I prefer black iron and copper... Last summer I was at a friends trailor changed all gas line under trailor to 1/2" black with 3/8" copper tap off for stove and water heater... 

Everyone wanted me to do thiers too but I was there for enjoyment rather than work

3/8 flare x 1/2" male npt is a standard fitti ng most supplys should have that in stock... flaring tool 30-40 bucks


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## Venomthirst (Jun 20, 2018)

Oh btw... i wanted to mention... that the the csst (gastite) is a flared connection to the adapter... but let us know how you made out...


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Venomthirst said:


> Flaring copper is incredibly easy and can hold alot of pressure... i believe 600psi if not more... brake lines are a different flare and can hold 2000+ psi..
> 
> Gas tite is way too expensive... for me
> I prefer black iron and copper... Last summer I was at a friends trailor changed all gas line under trailor to 1/2" black with 3/8" copper tap off for stove and water heater...
> ...


brake lines have a double flare, I have done many brake line replacements...also for copper water mains , most use flare fittings and there are special flare tools for that...


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> brake lines have a double flare, I have done many brake line replacements...also for copper water mains , most use flare fittings and there are special flare tools for that...





Not really special, just usually larger and labeled differently. They label them with ID(nominal), instead of the OD. Still the same 45degree flare. 


I have the ridgid 454w but that's only needed if you run 1" lines as some of the other tools will do up to 3/4"ID aka 7/8"OD. The 455 will do up to 1"OD so you could use it for 3/4" water lines which is usually what we have around here. The rigid flaring tools will have either 45 or 37 in the name which denotes the angle of the flare. All of the flare fittings we will use are 45degrees. 37 is used for hydraulics and brake lines, though some of those are 45 too. We also have a set of flaring punches in the tool crib, but they rarely get used.


I like the 454w because it's chunky and easier to handle in a trench than the smaller models.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Venomthirst said:


> Flaring copper is incredibly easy and can hold alot of pressure... i believe 600psi if not more... brake lines are a different flare and can hold 2000+ psi..
> 
> Gas tite is way too expensive... for me
> I prefer black iron and copper... Last summer I was at a friends trailor changed all gas line under trailor to 1/2" black with 3/8" copper tap off for stove and water heater...
> ...


My lp guy, former President of my brewing club hooked me up. Black 3/8 nipple and 3/8x1/2” coupling. Says he sells the same cradle all day long. 

Material cost is little concern. Something like $4.50/ft cost. I get a week off up north for an hours worth of work. She already paid me for the tanks, cradle, fill, recertification and rebuild/replacement valves. 

$100 for my master for the tanks and cradle, $140 for tank cert/valves/fill. 2 100# tanks. Not too bad I think.

Amazing how many people and trades I’ve come to know. Replaced my main line from house to new city tap for all of $1700! Normally it would have been $5-7k!


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

OpenSights said:


> My lp guy, former President of my brewing club hooked me up. Black 3/8 nipple and 3/8x1/2” coupling. Says he sells the same cradle all day long.
> 
> Material cost is little concern. Something like $4.50/ft cost. I get a week off up north for an hours worth of work. She already paid me for the tanks, cradle, fill, recertification and rebuild/replacement valves.
> 
> ...



remember nothing is free, you will get the call that so and so needs some plumbing work....and it will be for free on your part...


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> [/COLOR]
> remember nothing is free, you will get the call that so and so needs some plumbing work....and it will be for free on your part...


We work together. I send them a sht load of work, they use us for inside work.

I always let them bill my customer and they do the same.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

OpenSights said:


> We work together. I send them a sht load of work, they use us for inside work.
> 
> I always let them bill my customer and they do the same.


so if they asked you to plumb a new bathroom you would do it at a reduced rate?


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> so if they asked you to plumb a new bathroom you would do it at a reduced rate?


As much work that I get from them, and it was their personal house, yeah, I’d cut them a break. I’d sell material at my cost and give them a break on labor.


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