# Figure 5 clog



## voltatab (Jan 2, 2010)

I'm relatively new to drain cleaning. Im getting into it a little more every year, while I've had many questions, a bunch get answered on here, but I had a home yesterday that I was hesitant on my options. 

Double lavi vanity. Tried to snake a backed up figure 5 fitting with my drophead 3/8 cable through the trap but kept coming through the other side. I tried going through the roof vent but it tied into another vent and did not clear drain. 

How do I clear a bad figure 5 fitting if I can't go through the vent...open th wall? 

Thanks guys


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## Plumber Jim (Jun 19, 2008)

If you can't get the cable to drop down the fitting from one of the lavs. and can't get down the vent, Then I would say it is time to open the wall.


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## voltatab (Jan 2, 2010)

Damn...thanks


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

voltatab said:


> I'm relatively new to drain cleaning. Im getting into it a little more every year, while I've had many questions, a bunch get answered on here, but I had a home yesterday that I was hesitant on my options. <snip>
> 
> 
> Did you try runing in reverse until you drop in?


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## voltatab (Jan 2, 2010)

I did not... That works?!


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

Drain cleaning takes a special mindset. Running in reverse, different bends on the cable, different speeds, different cutters/cables/machines, etc. You often just need to try things that at first you wouldn't think would work. 95% of the time there's a way to open the line. That's not to say the fitting doesn't have to be replaced go ensure long term reliability but it's probably open-able.






Paul


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

It shouldn't be much of a problem getting the cable to drop into that fitting.

I don't use a drop head myself but running in reverse and bending the cable would be at the top of my list of things to try...

Sometimes if the clog is right at the drop of the fitting it can be tough to get at the cable bounces off and goes out the other arm. Seldom have I had to resort to opening a wall to get it...

Another thing you may try is with a bend in the cable, the machine stopped with the bend facing down, pushing the cable into the fitting and sticking it...
Keep in mind you have to have enough cable out of the drum to reach the fitting. If you pull additional cable out of the drum the cable will turn...


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)




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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

What's that for? So he can poke himself in the eye after the frustration takes hold? :laughing:






Paul


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## voltatab (Jan 2, 2010)

Thanks for the tips. 

It's funny, I never really wanted to get into drain cleaning. It wasn't a part of the trade I ever truly learned from my old company, or cared to.

Believe it or not, The 1st drain cleaning tool (if you can call it that) I ever bought was a $40 home depot- 1/4" drum that attatched to my makita and could then auto feed. It would work on 70% of the homes that had asked me to try an clear a drain. these were mostly people who knew I wasn't a drain tech, but were repeat customers and wanted me to try anyway, plus if I couldn't get it I didn't charge. This was more of a courtesy attempt to repeats and besides, I was just attempting to clear tubs and faucets once or twice a month. I used it for about 4-5 months, then it broke and I bought another one again- as I wasn't ready to accept that I was taking more drain calls than I wanted. 

I did this a couple times till I got sick of feeling kinda dumb with that thing, plus, the calls weren't going away for drain cleaning despite how many people I told that It wasn't my area. 

So a year ago I got the ridgid handheld k-45 for $300. It felt great compared to what i had, but i still gave away sewer mains and larger stuff to a friend, with the occasional drain that I couldn't get. 

Now I'm ready to upgrade again to a more professional snake that can handle more. 

Any suggestions on a new machine or setup? Not sure what are the basic heads and cable size i would want on my truck. I still won't touch commercial or anything larger than a single family residence but I'd like to expand a tiny bit more and offer mains and root cutting.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

I do all my drain cleaning with 2 machines...
For the small lines I use a Ridgid K-3800 with 3 drums containing 1/2", 3/8", and 1/2" cable...
For mains I use a Ridgid K-7500 with 11/16" cable and have 2 drums with 100' on each....

If you are down south where they go on roofs you might want to go with a sectional...


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## voltatab (Jan 2, 2010)

I'm in so California, so, some roofs but not too much. 

What's a sectional? And why 2 drums of the same cable? 11/16 100ft


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

The sectional uses a smaller power head that feeds in shorter lengths of cable... 
Like 10 - 15 feet at a time that you have to add on in sections...

As for the 2 drums mostly a back up but we do sometimes see lines over 100'...

I don't like doing them and mostly opt for jetting longer ones, but I can go to 200'


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## voltatab (Jan 2, 2010)

Is that like a rodder?

Also how big of a cable can you generally fit in a 2" drain? I know every home is different - but would a 1/2" cable ever be able to get in through a 2" trap to handle a 3-4" drain blockage further down?...Do I even need 1/2" cable for a 4" pipe? 

Drain cleaning is another trade all in it's own it seems like...


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

The 1/2" cable is good for interior 3 & 4" lines.
Just the right thing for that clogged bath on the 2nd or 3rd floor...

You'll be in trouble getting into roots with it...

But if the line is 2" and pretty much a straight shot. Long sweep 90's, combo's wyes, and 45's it will go through 2" and wherever possible I will use it.


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## retired rooter (Dec 31, 2008)

http://www.gorlitz.com/ this co has a machine for all type users and drain sizes, and its really QUALITY equip


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