# Cast Repair on Tuesday



## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

Going to fix this on Tuesday, and no I did not put that temp fix on the cast pipe.


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

Will we get some after pix??


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Do you think you can find good pipe close by?


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## Pipedoc (Jun 14, 2009)

Ya Ron, what Bill said.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

cut it all out and install new PVC


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

Sure you will replacement will be done in ABS and will use mission coupling for the extra strength .


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

TheMaster said:


> Do you think you can find good pipe close by?


Here is a better shot of the hubs, I'll remove the hubbed short cast stub seen off the wye combo fitting, will have to carefully dig out the old lead to free it, then will take it from there, replace the 2nd wye combo you see.

Here is a better picture, the 1st fitting had leakage from long ago, as you can see the water trails.


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## Plumber Jim (Jun 19, 2008)

Looks like a nice job. should make some money. can't wait to see the after shots.


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## 130 PLUMBER (Oct 22, 2009)

looks like a 2 man job for 8 hours:thumbup:


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## 130 PLUMBER (Oct 22, 2009)

GREENPLUM said:


> cut it all out and install new PVC


more than likely since it's a commercial building he's going to have to install it with cast iron pipe.


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

Ron The Plumber said:


> Here is a better shot of the hubs, I'll remove the hubbed short cast stub seen off the wye combo fitting, will have to carefully dig out the old lead to free it, then will take it from there, replace the 2nd wye combo you see.





Ron The Plumber said:


> Here is a better picture, the 1st fitting had leakage from long ago, as you can see the water trails.




Ron: Are you going to replace this with no/hub or bell & spickot? Looking at the photo where the piping above the 2nd combo goes through the floor? That looks like a stack, make sure you have riser clamps on or some way of holding the weight. Cast iron stacks especially XH are heavy. Like to come down crashing. I have jacks made 1" blk pipe with 3/4 all-thread rod inside 2-3/4 washers and a 3/4 nut.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

PLUMBER_BILL said:


> Ron: Are you going to replace this with no/hub or bell & spickot? Looking at the photo where the piping above the 2nd combo goes through the floor? That looks like a stack, make sure you have riser clamps on or some way of holding the weight. Cast iron stacks especially XH are heavy. Like to come down crashing. I have jacks made 1" blk pipe with 3/4 all-thread rod inside 2-3/4 washers and a 3/4 nut.



It goes three stories up. I'm sure there is lots of support form the upper floors, yes no hub it back together with mission couplings, yes two man job but this should not take 8 hrs, will probably snap cut three parts remove the wye fitting and once the hubed stub is removed put it back together. Code allows use of abs in a commercial building.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

Ron The Plumber said:


> Going to fix this on Tuesday, and no I did not put that temp fix on the cast pipe.



Why all the tude, on not putting that temp fix on there? Whats the big deal if you did? Why NOT do something like that to give them temporary relief until the job can be scheduled for repair. I swear, you guys and your egos.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> Why all the tude, on not putting that temp fix on there? Whats the big deal if you did? Why NOT do something like that to give them temporary relief until the job can be scheduled for repair. I swear, you guys and your egos.


It's operational, it is in use. That is the temp patch they put on there. It is scheduled for repair. Guess I don't understand what your saying.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

Your post reads as though you would be embarrassed to say that you put that temp fix on there. I was asking why.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> Your post reads as though you would be embarrassed to say that you put that temp fix on there. I was asking why.


What ever, I did not put that on there, I was called out to fix it, looked at it and set a date to fix it.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

This thread is about a repair I'm up to do, not about the gas line, keep it on topic.


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## Tieger plumbing (Nov 13, 2009)

*Tieger plumbing*



GREENPLUM said:


> cut it all out and install new PVC


I would rather use propoxy :laughing:


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

Would do this on a sooner date, but they have to give notice to the upper unit not to use there drain, and they better not use them when it takes place, or I'll be :furious:


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

Thread Split

http://www.plumbingzone.com/f8/gas-piping-question-6121/


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Ron The Plumber said:


> Thread Split
> 
> http://www.plumbingzone.com/f8/gas-piping-question-6121/


 I always thought that was the reason no bushing on gas too...Thread splits:thumbsup: I agree


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

Ron The Plumber said:


> It goes three stories up. I'm sure there is lots of support form the upper floors, yes no hub it back together with mission couplings, yes two man job but this should not take 8 hrs, will probably snap cut three parts remove the wye fitting and once the hubed stub is removed put it back together. Code allows use of abs in a commercial building.


I personally would not be comfortable having ABS holding up a three story CI stack if someone were to remove a friction clamp on an upper floor for whatever reason.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

NOt to mention that ABS is in that same league as Blue Poly, as far as I'm concerned. You couldn't give me that crap.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

ABS is code approved, and that is what I'm going to use


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

No body stocks that crap around here. FL heat warps that shiot like a 12 yr olds mind. That's what TM told me anyways.


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## Tieger plumbing (Nov 13, 2009)

*Tieger plumbing*



Ron The Plumber said:


> Going to fix this on Tuesday, and no I did not put that temp fix on the cast pipe.


Personally I would move the clevis hangers back slightly behind the hubs then use a grinder to cut each hub to expost the spigot end of the pipe buy 3 mission couplings extra heavy CI x NH and then readjust the clevis hangers..Makes for a neater job using the mission as a regular NH crushes on one end when going from XH to NH ..Good luck


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

Tieger plumbing said:


> Personally I would move the clevis hangers back slightly behind the hubs then use a grinder to cut each hub to expost the spigot end of the pipe buy 3 mission couplings extra heavy CI x NH and then readjust the clevis hangers..Makes for a neater job using the mission as a regular NH crushes on one end when going from XH to NH ..Good luck


I'll keep this in thought, pictures will come on Tuesday.


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Ron The Plumber said:


> I'll keep this in thought, pictures will come on Tuesday.


 I bet you will keep it in thought while your installing that abs:thumbup: The whole time your doin the repair keep in thought I would be using pvc. Goodluck with your job and stay safe.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

TheMaster said:


> I bet you will keep it in thought while your installing that abs:thumbup: The whole time your doin the repair keep in thought I would be using pvc. Goodluck with your job and stay safe.


I'll photoshop the repair for you TM make it look like PVC. :laughing:


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## Tieger plumbing (Nov 13, 2009)

*Tieger plumbing*



Ron The Plumber said:


> I'll keep this in thought, pictures will come on Tuesday.


The reason I would use the grinder / Sawzall / Lennox carbide blade is a snap cutter may cause an uneven cut or worse cause a large crack.

Splitting the hub with the the blade / grinder and using a cold chisel makes it a lot easier


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

Tieger plumbing said:


> The reason I would use the grinder / Sawzall / Lennox carbide blade is a snap cutter may cause an uneven cut or worse cause a large crack.
> 
> Splitting the hub with the the blade / grinder and using a cold chisel makes it a lot easier


Thanks I'll probably use the grinder on that 1st wye combo, will make that cut 1st so not to disturb the good fitting that connect to it, thought about drilling the lead out then removing the oakum that too would free that hubed stubby, the cast looks sound, so snapping the 2nd wye combo on the riser might be fine, but looks don't mean nothing, as for the horizontal run, that we will cut with blades.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

Looks like there will be plenty of room there to use the CI No-Hub Adaptor, since there is no banded coupling that will work directly from cast to abs, by useing this adaptor I'll be able to use no hub coupling correctly for the transitions, today I find out that 3" riser will move after I cut it. I did not think there is anyplace above this point to add riser clamps before hand.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

Well we got r-done, went to get the camrea, and since we did not take my truck, I had left it in it, man I was going to take picture of the mechanical room we worked in, enormous boiler room, we are hoping to go back a re plumb more of that line, come to find out after all these years of it having a slight back grade was the reason it rotted away, but of course we all knew that would happen, right, the 3" riser was bone dry, thinking it was a vent stack, it was solid, zero movement after the cut, just as I suspected, we did use a grinder on the cuts, made for a faster removal of the bad pipes.


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## user2091 (Sep 27, 2009)

Easy money for a plumber like you. Post the after pictures!!!!!


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