# Question for you sectional guys; K1500



## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Got a call from my former boss yesterday offering to sell me the IRM (I don't know why he called it that) or K1500 for a price I couldn't turn down. I've used it many times, but only as a two man crew... one operating the machine, one keeping 2-3 sections from wreaking havoc all over the place. I didn't care for that and plan on one section at a time. I've been looking at backup cutters and whatnot for it and saw a "rear guide hose" for the cable. Is it an added "helping hand" or a PITA to work with?


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Going to work on separating the cables tomorrow.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

I bought a K-60 and a K-50 new. They both came with the rear guide hose. It will keep the cable from spinning and twisting into everything. Sometimes I get lazy and don't use the guide hose in the grass {outside c.o.} and I wind up plucking tufts of grass out of the cable.

If you're inside customer's home, then the guide hose is a must.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Thanks! I always do mods to my machines, take off what I find useless, add what works for me. Just wasn't sure what side of the fence this would land on. They're going for $115 on fleabay right now, going to look around though.


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## fixitright (Jan 5, 2012)

Trying to remember what some folks wrote in about using other things for guid hoses.

I'm sure there is something out there much simpler to use. I never hook my guide hose to the K-60 so you don't need the connection.

blue electrical non metallic corrugated flex?

Here's from the Ridgid forum (down under member)
I always used a my made up guide hose with my KM-1500 as Ridgid guide hoses were and still are a rip off I bought a roll 50mm flexible aggy pipe feed it into the coupling that connects to the rear a my KM-1500 and bobs your uncle it worked fine


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

Second man can feed the cable through the guide hose for you. A 7 gallon bucket fits perfectly to hold those baskets upright with that general basket in the middle. Cable without an inner core sucks. All I will ever run is Eel innercore 1 1/4". But ITS OVERKILL. Unless you need 200+ feet, I'd get a k7500. Ive been happy with the k1500b.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

fixitright said:


> Trying to remember what some folks wrote in about using other things for guid hoses.
> 
> I'm sure there is something out there much simpler to use. I never hook my guide hose to the K-60 so you don't need the connection.
> 
> ...


Kinda hard to read Aussi, but I get the jist, hadn't thought of an alternative...


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## fixitright (Jan 5, 2012)

You could make it longer than the original guide hose.

Never figured out why the guide hose for the K-60 is shorter than the cable.

Lot more useful if it was longer, sucking up Grandma's carpet or throw rugs
or the cat is never fun. (Cept the cat)


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

KoleckeINC said:


> Second man can feed the cable through the guide hose for you. It'll be just me running it. A 7 gallon bucket fits perfectly to hold those baskets upright with that general basket in the middle. I get what you're saying, kind of, but not really... Cable without an inner core sucks. All I will ever run is Eel innercore 1 1/4". But ITS OVERKILL. Unless you need 200+ feet, I'd get a k7500. Ive been happy with the k1500b.


I've thought about a K7500, but up and down basement stairs... K750 is enough. Out here, I'm the only that I know of that will cable beyond 100' with a 5/8 or 3/4" cable. I've ran this machine before, even repaired it before ever using it. Not my favorite by any means, but I recognize it's ability to cut through tough roots with ease. I've never looked forward to using it, but $100 for it all, I couldn't go wrong. All sections are inner core. One is broken, had to be cut. Gearjunky said not to toss it, for good reason.

My old boss's problem is no patients. If something is broken, even in the slightest, it sits till he's done looking at it, then it's cheap. Shocked the hell out of me when he shot the number for the k1500! Looking at a camera that needs repair, an M300 and M100/200 both in deconstructed bone heaps. I know I can fix them with little issue.


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

I had a k750. But not for long. Not even close to being as good as a spartan. It needs that inner guide tube and drum. 100$ is certainly a steal. Now you can get some of those expanding cutters I use to put the local Jetters out of business.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Yeah the K750 wasn't my first choice, but used one for years. If I get my hands on the m300, the k750 will be back up, if needed. Spartan, IMHO, are the best drum machines out there, but it's next to impossible to find even a used one... for good reason.


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## cable or root (Oct 7, 2015)

I believe I have seen others post that running a k1500 without a rear guide hose will cause part of it to wear out faster. I thought it was kind of a must for the machine to atleast have the bracket for the guide hose. Plus sectional cable in tall grass w/o a guide hose becomes a PITA very quickly.


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## SchmitzPlumbing (May 5, 2014)

i have the 1500 and love it. i was trained on a spartan 300 and its as good but too heavy for me to load/unload, and get up the basement steps by myself. the 1500 will do the job and not wreck the cable. definately get the guide hose. you shouldnt wear out the factory model. its tough and heavy duty.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

One reason I didn't like it was lugging down a reel of 4 sections... that sucker's heavy!

Went out and looked at it, it has the connection spot for the guide hose. I honestly don't see using it every day, just on really root bound lines or 6" lines... residential, which is almost 100% of the time for me. Maybe I'll get the hang of it and use it more often... but I like my drums.... except my sink/laundry/floor drain machine. Older General T-3?.. has torque, but no RPM. Need a M100!


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## cable or root (Oct 7, 2015)

Try the duracable dm150, or the k50 for a secondary machine. They're both great machines and very versatile, the dm150 will let you switch out between 1/4,3/8,and 1/2" drums with just 2 thumb bolts and it's pretty much maintenance free. The k50 is really nice too I like using the drum with 1/4" and the 5/8 cable works great on really sludged up lines. Also you can run the 5/8 cable directly through a toilet when you're in a pinch. Both are great machines that eliminate the need for a second machine to use for tubs.


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## ItalStal (Nov 12, 2015)

I once had my 7/8" cable on the k70 whip back and almost took my face off. Needless to say, I use the guide sleeve every single time now. I dont attach it to the machine but just send the cable through.


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## MACK ATTAKK (Jan 11, 2015)

cable or root said:


> Try the duracable dm150, or the k50 for a secondary machine. They're both great machines and very versatile, the dm150 will let you switch out between 1/4,3/8,and 1/2" drums with just 2 thumb bolts and it's pretty much maintenance free. The k50 is really nice too I like using the drum with 1/4" and the 5/8 cable works great on really sludged up lines. Also you can run the 5/8 cable directly through a toilet when you're in a pinch. Both are great machines that eliminate the need for a second machine to use for tubs.


It's possible to rod through a toilet with 5/8 cable without pulling it? Isn't there a risk of chipping it inside?


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## Plumbducky (Jun 12, 2010)

MACK ATTAKK said:


> It's possible to rod through a toilet with 5/8 cable without pulling it? Isn't there a risk of chipping it inside?


I have heard of a few guys doing it, they claim to use some sort of sleeve to protect the bowl.

Once the blockage is cleared enough, they lift the toilet and rod it properly.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Plumbducky said:


> I have heard of a few guys doing it, they claim to use some sort of sleeve to protect the bowl.
> 
> Once the blockage is cleared enough, they lift the toilet and rod it properly.
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk



That would be nice for those slab houses with a full tub that has a bad trip waste!


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## cable or root (Oct 7, 2015)

Yes you can go through a toilet with a k50. The sleeve is just used to keep from scratching the toilet bowl. I just use calcisolve to remove the scratches. It's a little scary at first but you get over it pretty fast. I do not pull wall hung toilets any more. Life is much easier.


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## ItalStal (Nov 12, 2015)

cable or root said:


> Yes you can go through a toilet with a k50. The sleeve is just used to keep from scratching the toilet bowl. I just use calcisolve to remove the scratches. It's a little scary at first but you get over it pretty fast. I do not pull wall hung toilets any more. Life is much easier.


You have just changed my life sir. I'm going to dig the sleeve out from the trash and try it out. Do you go bareback with the cable? or try with a head on first? Lightbulb?


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## Drain Pro (Nov 3, 2013)

cable or root said:


> Yes you can go through a toilet with a k50. The sleeve is just used to keep from scratching the toilet bowl. I just use calcisolve to remove the scratches. It's a little scary at first but you get over it pretty fast. I do not pull wall hung toilets any more. Life is much easier.



That sounds like trouble to me. Besides, can you get a proper sized cleaning blade through a toilet?


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## cable or root (Oct 7, 2015)

I use a reverse auger with a nice bend. Got the idea from rick. It does fine in 3" for wipes tampons paper towels that sort of thing. I will never use it for lines where roots may be an issue. But for a wall hung stool on the 6th floor above a computer lab, 50' from the stack, with no hub cast the entire way? Bet your butt I'm not pulling the toilet and running 3/4 cable. It does quite well and self feeds at a nice slow pace. I'll attach a pic of the end I use to do this. 1 1/8" bulb'll go through but itself feeds in the opposite direction and doesn't scrape the walls at all so it's not as effective.


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## Drain Pro (Nov 3, 2013)

cable or root said:


> I use a reverse auger with a nice bend. Got the idea from rick. It does fine in 3" for wipes tampons paper towels that sort of thing. I will never use it for lines where roots may be an issue. But for a wall hung stool on the 6th floor above a computer lab, 50' from the stack, with no hub cast the entire way? Bet your butt I'm not pulling the toilet and running 3/4 cable. It does quite well and self feeds at a nice slow pace. I'll attach a pic of the end I use to do this. 1 1/8" bulb'll go through but itself feeds in the opposite direction and doesn't scrape the walls at all so it's not as effective.



You learn something new everyday. Very cool. 


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

I love my reverse auger. I thank you guys everyday I pull back a wad of poo covered tampons out of a hospital toilet.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

cable or root said:


> I use a reverse auger with a nice bend. Got the idea from rick. It does fine in 3" for wipes tampons paper towels that sort of thing. I will never use it for lines where roots may be an issue. But for a wall hung stool on the 6th floor above a computer lab, 50' from the stack, with no hub cast the entire way? Bet your butt I'm not pulling the toilet and running 3/4 cable. It does quite well and self feeds at a nice slow pace. I'll attach a pic of the end I use to do this. 1 1/8" bulb'll go through but itself feeds in the opposite direction and doesn't scrape the walls at all so it's not as effective.













Explain to me what is the difference between a reverse auger and the regular retriever augers that come with the machines? Don't they both retrieve tampons, paper towels, baby wipes, etc.?

I thought the whole idea of a reverse auger was so that the auger head didn't get hopelessly stuck into a root ball. Maybe I am not understanding the idea of a reverse auger.


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## cable or root (Oct 7, 2015)

A reverse auger corkscrews the opposite direction of the traditional straight auger. So when spinning the machine in reverse to self feed the cable into the line the end grabs in the proper direction. They can also be any length you want so it's easier to get a good bend. Also appearently from what Rick said they are less likely to break. Something about weak ridgid factory welds.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

cable or root said:


> A reverse auger corkscrews the opposite direction of the traditional straight auger. So when spinning the machine in reverse to self feed the cable into the line the end grabs in the proper direction. They can also be any length you want so it's easier to get a good bend. Also appearently from what Rick said they are less likely to break. *Something about weak ridgid factory welds*.


 










I can attest to weak factory welds by Ridgid. 

Thanks for the response.


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## Letterrip (Jul 28, 2013)

Tommy plumber said:


> I can attest to weak factory welds by Ridgid.
> 
> Thanks for the response.



So it's not just me?? I've had two funnel augers, one straight auger, and one of my newer C10 cables break at the weld in the last few months. Getting kind of old. 


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Letterrip said:


> So it's not just me?? I've had two funnel augers, one straight auger, and one of my newer C10 cables break at the weld in the last few months. Getting kind of old.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk












Apparently it is a legitimate problem with Ridgid auger heads. This is what was left from a straight retriever auger. The rest was lost down a sewer.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Letterrip said:


> So it's not just me?? I've had two funnel augers, one straight auger, and one of my newer C10 cables break at the weld in the last few months. Getting kind of old.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk













Question: Are the breaks happening after the cable gets stuck?


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Tommy plumber said:


> Explain to me what is the difference between a reverse auger and the regular retriever augers that come with the machines?...


When using the factory auger, getting all sides of the pipe clear is very difficult if not impossible. It is much more likely to get stuck in a break or root ball as well.

The factory augers are wound like a screw with right-hand threads. Running the machine in forward drills the auger into whatever. Running the machine in reverse backs it out.

The cables however are wound the opposite direction like a left-hand screw. With the machine running in forward the cable will try to come out of the pipe if it is against the edge of anything. In reverse it will drill in. So the cable fights against what you are trying to do with the factory auger no matter what direction you run.

For cable operators that use more finesse and skill, knowing what the cable is doing (or not doing) down stream is a must. Having the cable always doing the opposite of the auger is just begging for something bad to happen.

I have been using cable whips for 30 years. They are also very helpful when trying to hit the right direction in a CI sanitary cross under a slab. Cable whips are the only thing I ever put on k50, k60, and k1500 no matter what the blockage is. I posted pics of them quite some time ago but the PZ search function won't go back that far I guess.


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## Letterrip (Jul 28, 2013)

Can't recall what I was doing with the straight augers. The funnel auger got hung, but snapped before I could let off the machine. 


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

All this complainin and I don't even own a funnel auger. Runnin a 3 4 and 6 on reliable eel or general cable. If turns are tight I have a 1 1/4 drop head and a 1' hollow core leader.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

plbgbiz said:


> When using the factory auger, getting all sides of the pipe clear is very difficult if not impossible. It is much more likely to get stuck in a break or root ball as well.
> 
> The factory augers are wound like a screw with right-hand threads. Running the machine in forward drills the auger into whatever. Running the machine in reverse backs it out.
> 
> ...















Thanks John, I appreciate the insight.

As far as finesse drain cleaning is concerned, that's not me....LOL. I'm more of a stick-it-in-hole-and-rock-n-roll-kind-of guy......:laughing:


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## fixitright (Jan 5, 2012)

KoleckeINC said:


> All this complainin and I don't even own a funnel auger. Runnin a 3 4 and 6 on reliable eel or general cable. If turns are tight I have a 1 1/4 drop head and a 1' hollow core leader.



Cool Cutters!
They don't sell those at my five and dime.
Factory Eel?

The Root saw is really neat.


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

Custom.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Letterrip said:


> Can't recall what I was doing with the straight augers. The funnel auger got hung, but snapped before I could let off the machine.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk













Maybe they're designed to break if they hang up badly so the operator can get his cable back? This has occurred to me.

When my straight auger broke, it was hung up badly down a typical 4" pvc sewer line. I suspect a break in the line or a mason's stake or something hard. Anyway, the lady was not receptive to further investigation. So I prefer getting my 7/8" cable back without the auger tip, collecting a check and getting out of there. As opposed to coming back in daylight and digging up the hung up cable.

Ridgid's catalog states that the straight auger tip is for exploring and investigating what is down the line. Then, when the operator knows what he's up against, he chooses a different auger bit. That is what I do.


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

Made a reverse auger for the 1500 today, made it through a 3" trap.... Beautiful. Love all this knowledge.


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