# Air Testing Cast Iron.....



## JWBII (Dec 23, 2012)

So how many of you have been forced to test cast iron with air?

What is your opinion of it and what methods have you found that work best for you.

Now I can deal with having to use air to test cast iron. I can suck it up and get it done just like anyone else eve though its hard. But when I got an idiot behind a desk telling me "oh just use clean seal test balls and just put Teflon and dope on them" I feel like throwing him off a cliff.

Don't make my job harder than it will already be whets unnecessary.

I'm kinda pissed lol.


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## gardon (Apr 24, 2013)

Did a old hotel remodel, years ago same thing, use test balls and check out the old stacks. What im sure your getting at is , cast is to bumpy and pourous of a pipe to get a solid test with a ball. no one ever suggested dope, but we had them pumped up long enough to find enough leaks to get ok to gut all stacks and replace with new pvc. They made us try though.....did not work


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## suzie (Sep 1, 2010)

It is a must here 5lbs psi or waived to 3 psi if large volume of pipe. I have a bug sprayer filled with three tablespoons of dawn and water spray down pipe to look for leaks. If you can't find leak buy a basting brush and brush around bands of there are leaks it will bubble. If you have sand holes or large cracks you will have to have multiple people spraying pipe and one running compressor.


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## leakfree (Apr 3, 2011)

It's not recommended by the manufactures,I do a lot of C.I. work and I wont test it with air,all of the Charlotte info say's no air in PVC,ABS and C.I. pipe and fittings


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## suzie (Sep 1, 2010)

I worked on a large job 13 years ago and Charlotte had to come on site as all there 6" had sand holes. They did not say anything about no air testing. If that is what your state code is how could they dispute that. They compensated my employer for material and labor. 

Also if your leak is because of sand holes you can get some tar, heat it up over pipe and rectify leaks.


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## JWBII (Dec 23, 2012)

My main issue is using clean seal test balls in test tees to do it. That in my opinion is the biggest crock of s**t I've ever heard. You will never be able to tell if its bleeding by or not aired properly since the ball is concealed inside the pipe. Then he tells me just to put Teflon and dope on the threads. The manufacturer of clean seals say not to use that on them as well as only hand tighten them in. Even used properly they are not ideal nor recommended to use on an air test.

The amount of time it will take to do so will be outrageous. Can't wait for him to question me on why its taking so long. Might drag up right then and there.


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## Mr-Green (Apr 29, 2013)

JWBII said:


> So how many of you have been forced to test cast iron with air?
> 
> What is your opinion of it and what methods have you found that work best for you.
> 
> ...


we always test with air above ground. usually i check my bands first make sure they're torqued then i use soap and water on all the fittings and the test rig. if a band leaks ill throw some black cheese on it and put it back together. if the bands are good ill just start rubbing soap along the pipe and fittings to look for cracks. Im sure youve done all that but thats the best i can offer :thumbsup:


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## JWBII (Dec 23, 2012)

Do you use clean seal test balls (the screw in test balls) to test with?


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## MDPlumber1977 (Mar 4, 2013)

I have an absolute disdain for air testing CI. I would prefer to water test all day long but if this is the option on the table. Sioux and Holdrite make some testing products that make the whole process a little less heinous. I have used the Sioux Chief and they held a 5 PSI air test like a champ.

www.siouxchief.com/Testing/Plugs-And-Caps/InFlow.V2DSM


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## JWBII (Dec 23, 2012)

If I had the choice or knew they would go for it I would so be using that. I too have a real disdain for it as well. What gets me is when some guy behind a desk is so nonchalant about it, like its so easy ya know. Just pisses me off to no end.


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## matkg (Mar 3, 2013)

Smoke test not an option?


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Why the fook are WE suppose to test those crappy cast iron pipes/fittings for sandholes??? Aren't they supposed to be factory tested before being shipped out to protect our finished end???


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## JWBII (Dec 23, 2012)

matkg said:


> Smoke test not an option?


I've asked question myself. Apparently some consider it too expensive.


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## JWBII (Dec 23, 2012)

For you guys that do a lot of this is there a preference on the brand of soap you use?

I saw one of you already mentioned the "Dawn" brand....


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## Mr-Green (Apr 29, 2013)

JWBII said:


> For you guys that do a lot of this is there a preference on the brand of soap you use?
> 
> I saw one of you already mentioned the "Dawn" brand....


Most foreman I've worked for use mega bubble but dawn and some water works just fine


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

leakfree said:


> It's not recommended by the manufactures,I do a lot of C.I. work and I wont test it with air,all of the Charlotte info say's no air in PVC,ABS and C.I. pipe and fittings


Exactly the reason that method of testing has been removed from our code here. No more air tests on waste. Never attempted to air test cast myself but have done PVC with air in the past found that wetting the clean seal test balls would help them seal better.


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

JWBII said:


> I've asked question myself. Apparently some consider it too expensive.


How much does a 60 second smoke bomb cost where your at? Back in my twenties when i was a helper my journeyman and I would go through half a bag throwing them out the Windows of the truck in heavy traffic every time we bought a bag from the supply house lol. Ya only have to buy the smoke machine once, or you can build a fugazi one out of a bathroom fart fan. Ive even seen a shop vac used before, worked great, just put a metal coffee can inside the vac tub so the bomb doesn't melt the vac if its made of plastic. Ohh and remove the filter, dont forget to put the hose on the blow side.


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## JWBII (Dec 23, 2012)

I'd have to buy em myself cause I know my messed up company won't buy em. Also to be honest I think they would only be good to find the leaks but wouldn't be able to get an inspection using them. I'd still either have to have a gauge with air or water. Since water is out the air test seems to be the only option for me.


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

JWBII said:


> I'd have to buy em myself cause I know my messed up company won't buy em. Also to be honest I think they would only be good to find the leaks but wouldn't be able to get an inspection using them. I'd still either have to have a gauge with air or water. Since water is out the air test seems to be the only option for me.


You should check your code book for "approved methods of waste pipe testing".

I know our code allows: water, smoke, or oil of peppermint. Check the book brother if its in there they have to allow it.


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