# indirect water heater



## muck (Oct 10, 2008)

Im not sure if this is the place for this but here it goes. Ive never had to deal with an indirect water heater. I have one that the HO wants replaced becaude the T&P is dripping. The house is run off a well so its not pressure and a new boiler was installed a month ago. Im guessing the the temp is to high on the boiler. I feel retarted asking this but is there an adjustment for temp on the boiler and what temp should they be running at. We dont work on heating equipment and this is the bosses friend so im stuck doing it. The HO want to go to lowes and buy the a WH, I dont think Lowes even sells boilermates. Then the HO asked about puting in an electric WH. Any suggestions?
Signed
Dumb Plumber


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## PlumberDave (Jan 4, 2009)

1st t&p can be replaced, what type of heaters old radiators, slant fins, in floor, PEX Copper or Iron pipe to determine boiler temp. What make is the boiler? Probably a grey Honeywell or brown White rodgers box on the boiler in which is the aquastat to set temp. Before anything the 1st the t&p before ya go with anything else.


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## Marlin (Aug 14, 2008)

I really doubt lowering the boiler temperature is going to make a difference. I would diagnose it just like any other water heater. We set most boilers somewhere between 140 and 180. Perhaps he needs an expansion tank on the domestic water?


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## uaplumber (Jun 16, 2008)

Boiler temp depends on a heat loss calc.
Many can be changed on an aquastat. But without a heat loss, it will not be effective.
Go to Minnesota for Uponor training when you can. Ceck temp against the T&P rating. Then, recheck for actual temp. Then replace T&P. Boiler side-arm will always be more efficient. IMO.


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## TDB (Jun 25, 2008)

The control box on the boilermate should shut down if it gets to 140 degrees so if it apears to be working normally it is not a temp issue. The t/p should let go at ~210 degrees. If you have the old style knob control then I don't think it will shut down if it gets too hot. You could simply check the temp to see if it is a heat issue.

It is possible the zone valve (if it has one) is leaking by and causing a high temp.

Adjusting the temp of the boiler is the wrong move to make unless the boiler is above 180.

I would just replace the t/p. They do go bad. I replace 2 or 3 a month at least...

A expansion tank is all but required to prolong life but I doubt the lack of one is a problem here since you are on well water.

If the skin of the tank is warmer than room temp, the tank needs to be replaced. Also check for the bolts to the coil for drips as well as pin holes in the skin towards the top. These are lifetime warranties for original purchasers.


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## muck (Oct 10, 2008)

Thanks guys some great points. I post after i go there


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## Mike Jessome (Aug 7, 2008)

If the T&P is dripping just change it why throw it out, and the just to let you know the temperture can be changed on the water heater itself it acts just like a mixing valve in a heating system say you had baseboard up stairs and infloor in your slab in the basement water for baseboard is 180 and infloor is say 100 the water goes 180 to that heater then in simple terms "cools" in the indirect water heater so if you change it you may have to play with controls on the new one and adjust setting etc thats what they are like here in canada anyways


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## nhmaster3015 (Aug 5, 2008)

If the boiler temp was running above 215 or so, the tank water would also be running the same temperature. It's more likely a bad relief valve, excessive water pressure or there is no thermal expansion tank in the cold line.


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## trick1 (Sep 18, 2008)

A longshot, but check if there is a flowcheck in the indirect zone and verify that it is closed. A missing or open flowcheck can cause heat migration into that zone, in this case the indirect coil and cause overheating.


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## trick1 (Sep 18, 2008)

NEVERMIND.... I post before I thought:no: Unless the aquastat relay ran away or was set at some ridiculous temperature there is no way that the domestic would reach 210 F

Sorry!!!


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