# 1-1/4" Nipple Extractor?



## Kevan

A galvanized nipple for a lav sink drain is proving nearly impossible for me to remove. Since it only extends a little beyond the finished wall, the pipe wrench can't hold on well and has begun to collapse the end.

The walls (1930s) are mortar on wire mesh, finished with 4" tile. If I tear into it, it'll be expensive to repair. I'm afraid to send my torch flame back to the cast iron because I can't see around it for fire safety. Heating the nipple from the front end didn't help any.

I checked with ten establishments here in Memphis and none carries an extractor for this size pipe, so I'll order one. (Customer has another bathroom.)

Any recommendations or warnings?


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## 422 plumber

How long is the nipple? On nipples that aren't too long, I have sliced them with a sawzall, them peeled them with a caping chisel, chased the threads with a tap and installed a new, slightly longer nipple.


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## 504Plumber

422 plumber said:


> How long is the nipple? On nipples that aren't too long, I have sliced them with a sawzall, them peeled them with a caping chisel, chased the threads with a tap and installed a new, slightly longer nipple.


I do the same, except make 2 slices in the nipple, then take small section of nipple out and squeeze the rest and it pulls right out. I don't think I have ever been able to unscrew a nipple from a cast or galv tee. It either breaks or is stupid tight.


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## dclarke

I cut a V into it and remove the V then the rest will pop out easy.


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## Michaelcookplum

Try to tighten it first, if you break it loose by tightening it, it will unscrew easily


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## Kevan

Thanks for the replies.

Quite often around here we see galvanized nipples under a kitchen sink between the cast iron tee and the cast iron wye. I'm always able to spin them out -- but then, the threads are always rusted, too! That's why I have to replace them. On the other hand, I've seen galvanized plugs in C.I. cleanouts that wouldn't come out _for anything!_ So it's a crap shoot as to whether this nipple would move if a good extractor were locked into it.

There isn't much to work with outside the wall. The nipple is only 3"-4" long, so it's definitely saw-able internally, but I don't think that I can do any squeezing.

Although I've read about the caping chisel by using the forum's search feature, I've never seen one used and don't yet understand why it protects the female threads. Can anyone describe how to make one on a bench grinder from a punch or screwdriver?


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## 504Plumber

Kevan said:


> Thanks for the replies.
> 
> Quite often around here we see galvanized nipples under a kitchen sink between the cast iron tee and the cast iron wye. I'm always able to spin them out -- but then, the threads are always rusted, too! That's why I have to replace them. On the other hand, I've seen galvanized plugs in C.I. cleanouts that wouldn't come out for anything! So it's a crap shoot as to whether this nipple would move if a good extractor were locked into it.
> 
> There isn't much to work with outside the wall. The nipple is only 3"-4" long, so it's definitely saw-able internally, but I don't think that I can do any squeezing.
> 
> Although I've read about the caping chisel by using the forum's search feature, I've never seen one used and don't yet understand why it protects the female threads. Can anyone describe how to make one on a bench grinder from a punch or screwdriver?


When I say squeeze, you don't have to squeeze hard, if you can take out a good size by making a few slices the nipple should pull out even with needle nose.


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## Kevan

Michaelcookplum said:


> Try to tighten it first, if you break it loose by tightening it, it will unscrew easily


Good advice that has worked for me in the past, but I can't grip this one enough to move it forward.


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## 422 plumber

A caping chisel has a different bevel, so it will get between the pipe and fitting, and not gouge the female threads of the fitting as much as a screwdriver or regular chisel would. I believe Perfecto tools makes them.


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## Richard Hilliard

I have a large screw extractor. In Ohio there were a ton of 1.25 MIP desancos used. I always seemed to twist those bad boys until I found the screw extractor to insert and use my big brother crescent


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## Michaelcookplum

Kevan said:


> Good advice that has worked for me in the past, but I can't grip this one enough to move it forward.


This has happend to me to, try to find something a little smaller to put inside the nipple. Like 1" PVC, end of a hammer, steel pipe, anything to help it from completely collapsing. I've done that and then so the tighten in tighten method. Handle on my 3lbs hammer worked the best. Good luck!


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## PLUMBER_BILL

Kevan said:


> A galvanized nipple for a lav sink drain is proving nearly impossible for me to remove. <snip>
> 
> Make a JACK chisel ... Flat piece of flat steel 1/4" thick.
> grind the edges sharp. [as you will be turing CCW the edge look at it flat ]
> The sharp edge would be on the top, on the left the sharp edge would be on the bottom. You grind the edges just so you have to hammer it in the pipe. Now as you turn CCW the edges dig in and get tighter and tighter ... the piece of pipe usually moves with a good sized cresent on the flat 1/4" piece [maybe a short cheater would be needed.]


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## Bigcim

I nee photos and illustrations lol 
I just use a screw driver, cant figure out how that chisel saves the threads any differently


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## wyrickmech

There is a internal nipple wrench. It's made by ridgid.its made just for the job you are trying to attempt.


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## 89plumbum

This will do from 1"- 2". Sorry, I do not remember what brand. I think its a pasco but could be ridgid?


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## Kevan

That's a $100 item in Ridgid's world, but I have my doubts about its ability to grab this one well enough.

I've locked a pipe wrench onto the end of the nipple and, using my boot to hold the wrench from slipping off, I've applied all the torque I could with my left hand while mercilessly beating down on the wrench handle with a drill hammer. That only lasts for two or three blows before the nipple deforms a little and the wrench slips.

Not having a caping chisel or any way to get one soon, I'm convinced that I need to saw the nipple internally and work it out -- something I've done before, but that I'm reluctant to do because of the potential damage to the female threads. Guess I'll just deal with it.

Customer is only home in the evenings and I tend to have evenings booked with other things, so it's taking a while to get back over there. Should be history in a day or two.


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## 89plumbum

I agree, I rarely pull that extractor out for the reasons you mentioned. Usually just disect with finesse and patience.


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## 422 plumber

"I've locked a pipe wrench onto the end of the nipple and, using my boot to hold the wrench from slipping off, I've applied all the torque I could with my left hand while mercilessly beating down on the wrench handle with a drill hammer. That only lasts for two or three blows before the nipple deforms a little and the wrench slips."



You need to stick a 1" nipple or a flare pin inside the 1-1/4" nipple 
to keep the end from collapsing.


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## Kevan

*Post Mortem*

I completed the job this afternoon by making a couple of cuts inside the nipple lengthways with a new 24 tpi Lenox blade in my Sawzall. My cuts formed a V, although that wasn't my intention, and I removed the section easily, which allowed my wrench to turn the nipple easily.

The work went quickly with almost no damage to the female threads.

Thanks to everybody who pitched in.:notworthy:


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## 422 plumber

Glad it turned out good.


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## 422 plumber

Another trick is to spin on a marvel, or desanko, as some call them. That will extend the threads past the wall and even if the threads aren't perfect, the marvel catches enough so it doesn't leak.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER

If you can get a wrench on it like said. Tighten it if able some heat from a torch will do the trick. Heat the fitting and it will work great 
Glad u got it done


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