# Flushometer tailpiece removal



## FEDguy (May 19, 2010)

Good morning Brothers,

I'm having to replace the tailpiece on a Zurn flushometer for a water closet..... due to a mistaken rough in. I've got to remove the orginal tailpiece to install a longer tailpiece.

I used a tailpiece tool that I bought from Best plumbing and I just cracked the tailpiece trying to remove it. 

Any suggestions to what I'm doing wrong would be helpful.. 

And note....."helpful suggestions" LOL:laughing:

Thanks


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

You cracked the tailpiece or the nut?


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## FEDguy (May 19, 2010)

I cracked the side of the tailpiece. 
I'm assuming that the tailpiece has right hand threads. The tool that used broke both tabs off the inside of the tailpiece. 

Man...that tailpiece was unbelievably tight or it had left hand threads..:whistling2:


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## 504Plumber (Jan 26, 2011)

If you're replacing the tailpiece why screw around with the tool? Just grab it with an 18 on the end ...


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

Did you use this?


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## FEDguy (May 19, 2010)

I got it out. I couldnt believe how tight it was. Thanks for your help!


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## FEDguy (May 19, 2010)

I cut slots inside the nipple and folded it inside of itself. Zurn used red locktite to assemble the body. I was surprised to see locktite used on the threads.


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

FEDguy said:


> I cut slots inside the nipple and folded it inside of itself. Zurn used red locktite to assemble the body. I was surprised to see locktite used on the threads.


I doubt that. It probably was the installer. Don't need dope there


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## justme (Jul 4, 2012)

MTDUNN said:


> I doubt that. It probably was the installer. Don't need dope there


don't doubt it , all the flush valve manufacturers use a form of loctite on the factory threads . That's why the nipples are hard to get out without scratching the chrome body.


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## goob (Dec 29, 2008)

a little heat on the nipple does wonders


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

goob said:


> a little heat on the nipple does wonders


*I was always taught that heat was required to loosen red or green locktight. Blue locktight can usually be loosened with the correct wrench and force, no heat required.*


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## FEDguy (May 19, 2010)

MTDUNN said:


> I doubt that. It probably was the installer. Don't need dope there


It was brand new out of the factory box. :yes:


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## FEDguy (May 19, 2010)

PLUMBER_BILL said:


> *I was always taught that heat was required to loosen red or green locktight. Blue locktight can usually be loosened with the correct wrench and force, no heat required.*


You are right about the heat melting the red locktite. I paid a visit to the locktite website after I realized it was red locktited in. Heat is what they said to apply to release the locktite.

I just never expected that locktite would have been used in this application. Tape or dope..yes.

I've learned something new today. :thumbup:

Thanks for all the input fellas!


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

justme said:


> don't doubt it , all the flush valve manufacturers use a form of loctite on the factory threads . That's why the nipples are hard to get out without scratching the chrome body.



I stand corrected. I was thinking of the vacuum breaker.


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## Plumbus (Aug 4, 2008)

I think you mean the supply nipple on the side of the valve. If so, tighten down a radiator wrench in a chain vice. Remove the dome and guts from the body of the flush valve and slide the supply nipple onto the radiator wrench until it engages when you turn it counter clockwise. Then stick a pipe wrench through the top of the valve so the handle sticks out the bottom. Now you have leverage to turn the nipple free from the body without worrying about scratching the finish. It will break free even if you don't heat it up.


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## Nlindbert (Sep 10, 2010)

Zurn calls that a tailpiece. I always referred 
to the vacuum breaker tube as a tell piece but I guess you learn something new every day


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

FEDguy said:


> I cracked the side of the tailpiece.
> I'm assuming that the tailpiece has right hand threads. The tool that used broke both tabs off the inside of the tailpiece.
> 
> Man...that tailpiece was unbelievably tight or it had left hand threads..:whistling2:










I hate it when stuff is that tight, pipe and fittings don't have to be that tight to not leak. It's like King Kong tightened it sometimes.


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## redbeardplumber (Dec 4, 2012)

Nlindbert said:


> Zurn calls that a tailpiece. I always referred
> to the vacuum breaker tube as a tell piece but I guess you learn something new every day


I was with you and Mtdunn....

Now the OP makes a little more sense. Lol


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

Sloan makes a nipple extractor that fits theirs, wonder if Zurn has one as well.

I have used the Sloan model several times, makes the removal very easy.


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## Hoosier Plumber (Nov 28, 2013)

If I recall correctly back when we got some training on Sloan valves the rep said the tailpiece was not meant to come out, no offense to anyone but he did state that if properly roughed in it would never have to be changed, which is why they make it that tight.


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## goob (Dec 29, 2008)

sloan rep recommends heat the nipple wrench sometimes strips out without heating first.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Rough in 10 1/2" high and 4 1/2 " to inaccessible side of fixture and then you don't have to worry about it !!!!!


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## FEDguy (May 19, 2010)

Plumberman said:


> Sloan makes a nipple extractor that fits theirs, wonder if Zurn has one as well.
> 
> I have used the Sloan model several times, makes the removal very easy.


That's the tool that I was using as it does fit a Zurn supply nipple (aka. Tailpiece), (a radiator wrench wouldnt work on a Zurn as was mentioned above, as I tried it).

I still dont get why Zurn would put locktite on the threads....teflon tape or dope yes. 

Thanks for your comment! This one has been a learning experience.


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## Hoosier Plumber (Nov 28, 2013)

FEDguy said:


> That's the tool that I was using as it does fit a Zurn supply nipple (aka. Tailpiece), (a radiator wrench wouldnt work on a Zurn as was mentioned above, as I tried it).
> 
> I still dont get why Zurn would put locktite on the threads....teflon tape or dope yes.
> 
> Thanks for your comment! This one has been a learning experience.


It is not designed or intended to be removed.


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## FEDguy (May 19, 2010)

Hoosier Plumber said:


> If I recall correctly back when we got some training on Sloan valves the rep said the tailpiece was not meant to come out, no offense to anyone but he did state that if properly roughed in it would never have to be changed, which is why they make it that tight.


 
I couldn't agree more with you about the rough in being done correctly.....however things to go wrong sometimes. And Sloan and Zurn both are aware of it...that's why they each offer several differant length "nipples" to make the existing rough in work.

Thanks for your input!


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

Hoosier Plumber said:


> It is not designed or intended to be removed.


Then why do they make a extraction tool and different size nipples sold separately at different lengths? 

Me thinks the rep is misinformed.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

422 plumber said:


> This is for swapping out tailpieces. I used to dread them, now it's a caker. Next time I get out to a repeat customer I will take pix of chrome 45's and 90's I had to install on a bathroom reno, because the water stubouts were between 3 and 3.5" from center, and they weren't going to open the walls so i could move the water pipe over.


Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

This pic goes with previous post

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


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## Hoosier Plumber (Nov 28, 2013)

Plumberman said:


> Then why do they make a extraction tool and different size nipples sold separately at different lengths? Me thinks the rep is misinformed.


Couldn't say with any certainty, but I'd guess its because they know no matter what they say or do the need will arise to need to change it.


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## justme (Jul 4, 2012)

Hoosier Plumber said:


> It is not designed or intended to be removed.


If it has threads its meant to be removed at some point or why not just cast it in one piece.


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

Hoosier Plumber said:


> Couldn't say with any certainty, but I'd guess its because they know no matter what they say or do the need will arise to need to change it.


Then if they make a tool to extract it and sell it and put in their catalog, then it's meant to be removed. 

If not then it would be one solid piece and you would have to re rough in the water in the wall. Just because it is has lock tite applied to the threads doesn't make it un removable.

The question that was asked to the rep may have been one he didn't know so he defaulted to a no instead of doing research on it.

I know for a fact that I have talked to Sloan through a wholesale agent and was told its perfectly fine to remove the nipple, hence the reason for threads.


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