# what torpedo level do you use and why?



## moonapprentice

I use the empire pitch level 90 percent of the time. If I come across dark situations I will use the Swanson battery operated lighted vial level. What's your choice of poison?


----------



## deerslayer

The johnson aluminum torpedo that has been in my tool bag for years without breaking!


----------



## moonapprentice

Aluminum is great.... If anybody knows of an al loo mini um torpedo with pitch indicater on it please say!


----------



## GREENPLUM

I just use my eyes, levels are for rooks


----------



## ToUtahNow

The old Redline levels were aluminum but the new ones (last 20-years?) are plastic.

Mark


----------



## Pipe Rat

I wont allow the "pitch" levels. Seen too many guys not realize they are not standard levels or they lay them on the pipe backwards. :blink: Hard to believe but true.


----------



## rocksteady

I just use a regular empire. I've never used a pitched level, don't quite see the need.







Paul


----------



## moonapprentice

rocksteady said:


> I just use a regular empire. I've never used a pitched level, don't quite see the need.
> 
> Paul


Put an empire pitch and the regular on same surface and you will see a difference


----------



## Tommy plumber

I have a regular torpedo level that I bought at Sears. It's got an aluminum frame and some earth magnets that are more powerful than regular magnets. And I have a 4' level.


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

Savage. Led And checkpoint brands are great to. Get those at electric supply house. And the savage at sears


----------



## moonapprentice

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> Savage. Led And checkpoint brands are great to. Get those at electric supply house. And the savage at sears


Awesome level one that I use in dark spaces


----------



## phishfood

For several years I used a Johnson aluminum frame torpedo level doing house roughs in a local jurisdiction that is really particular about proper fall on drainage pipe. The inspector will use a grade level to check every piece of pipe. 

One morning I was out on a big custom house installing the AC chases, the inspection was called in for the drainage and water underground. The inspector showed up just after 7 AM. He looked around, and mentioned that he could tell that I had done the work from the way it looked, and complimented me on my work. 

He got down in the ditch, and started checking fall. I went on with what I was doing. After about 5 minutes, he gave a whoop. " I finally got you, I have been trying to find something wrong with your work!" He had found a lavatory drain with somewhere between 3/16" and 1/4" on the 2" pipe. He gave me friendly crap while he personally regraded it. 

So, it is entirely possible to do good work without a grade level. My present company requires that we have and use a grade level. I don't mind, but I would feel just fine working with a regular torpedo level. The people that worry me are the "plumbing gods" that think they don't need a level at all.

But then again, service plumbers need a job too. Right??


----------



## Will

I use this:

http://www.tylertool.com/johnson-55...fault,pd.html&xsell=shop-by-brand--johnson--2


----------



## Drumma Plumma

I have an 8" long graded level that I got from HD earlier this year. It's pretty accurate. I saw a very small (about 2" long) ridgid brand graded level at the supply house this week. Might pick it up. Would be nice for tight spaces


----------



## gear junkie

Using a pitch bubble on a torpedo level is a waste....for grading sewer lines...32" level is the minimum I would use.


----------



## gear junkie

Also remember to check a level accuracy....do not do the flip it around method...do the 3-4-5 on the wall method to check.


----------



## plbgbiz

I freak out when I see a torpedo level on a sewer job.


----------



## U666A

gear junkie said:


> using a pitch bubble on a torpedo level is a waste....for grading sewer lines...32" level is the minimum i would use.





gear junkie said:


> also remember to check a level accuracy....do not do the flip it around method...do the 3-4-5 on the wall method to check.





plbgbiz said:


> i freak out when i see a torpedo level on a sewer job.


+1, +1, +1


----------



## moonapprentice

Wow.... Pitch is pitch


----------



## phishfood

I disagree. It is entirely possible, and I have seen it, to have a flat spot in a 4' section of 3034 pipe, but still have the required 1/8" per foot on the 4' section. 

Grade the ditch with proper fall before the pipe is installed, and use a short level to check down the entire length of the pipe.


----------



## U666A

I get it... Like leaving ABS out in the sun, turns into a banana.


----------



## No-hub

GREENPLUM said:


> I just use my eyes, levels are for rooks


RIIIIIIGHT, LOL! Levels are for craftsman.


----------



## futz

rocksteady said:


> I just use a regular empire. I've never used a pitched level, don't quite see the need.


Me too. I've bought a few pitched levels over the years and tried to get some use out of them, but they're useless. Good for DIYers only, IMHO.

For laying long lines fine I quickly make my own by taping a 1/2" ply block on my 24" level. That way when I need a real level again I can instantly rip off the block and go. I have a 4' level too, for even finer, and for tubs & showers and stuff.


----------



## alberteh

mastercraft cheap but good level ($9). so far so good but am looking at the new milwaukee torpedo with the pitch gradient. Gotta try it!


----------



## deerslayer

We use to get starret levels with a screw leg that came out of 1 end to make it a grade level, I really liked those but I haven't seen one in a while! If I am doing longer runs I use a minimum of a 24" level and if available I use a 48", I too will tape a block under one end to set the grade as necessary.


----------



## Narin

Only use my 300mm torpedo level when glueing on fittings to get ideal fall. Just a quick question, how do you guys check for minimum fall using a spirit level in US? Code in Australia requires 1:60 fall which is quarter bubble on a level. I've never seen anyone using a grade level.


----------



## Michaelcookplum

Redline


----------



## Michaelcookplum

For sewers everyone should use these

2' level with adjustable screw to set grade. 

Typically I only use these in ground works. Notice the dirt....

I set 1 at 1/4" for 1/8" grade, and the other at 1/2" for 1/4" grade. 

Just like the commercial....set it, and forget it!


----------



## No-hub

In my state you better use a pitched level, they check all piping and if its not 2% exactly you will be re-doing your work. If you have a 1% section in the middle of a run you are screwed, do it all over. We use cheap empire ones.


----------



## TerryO

For sewer line replacements where we have to hit the city tap I use the transit unless there's lot's of grade already in the existing line. Just take a shot every 4 ft looking for 1/2" on 4" and up.

A lot of our old taps in our area are really shallow and can't be lowered because the main is that shallow. Sometimes we can't even get 1/8" per foot. In those cases you have to use the transit and the inspector has to go with it, that or jack the house up. 

Using a torpedo level on 1/8" per foot is about the same as eyeballing it, IMHO.


----------



## Pipe Rat

We use a laser to lay our sewers. :thumbup:


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

I use a torpedo level for a lot if sewer work and 2' for long runs. But mostly a torpedo. And Iv never heard of or seem an inspector checking fall on a pipe. It's crap and water. Aslong as it falls it will drain


----------



## Michaelcookplum

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> I use a torpedo level for a lot if sewer work and 2' for long runs. But mostly a torpedo. And Iv never heard of or seem an inspector checking fall on a pipe. It's crap and water. Aslong as it falls it will drain


That's because like good plumber, inspectors can see grade:::roll eyes


----------



## Bayside500

i use sears craftsmen levels, can't beat the warranty on them , i use both a pitch level and a regular one, on long runs i will use a 2 footer as well.


----------



## plbgbiz

Pipe Rat said:


> We use a laser to lay our sewers. :thumbup:


:thumbup:


----------



## rocksteady

Biz, what type of backflow is that and how do you service it when burried so deep?








Paul


----------



## plbgbiz

rocksteady said:


> Biz, what type of backflow is that and how do you service it when burried so deep?
> 
> Paul


It's called Clean Check Extendable Backwater Valve. Made by Rectorseal. Pretty much unlimited on depth.


----------



## deerslayer

Michaelcookplum said:


> For sewers everyone should use these
> 
> 2' level with adjustable screw to set grade.
> 
> Typically I only use these in ground works. Notice the dirt....
> 
> I set 1 at 1/4" for 1/8" grade, and the other at 1/2" for 1/4" grade.
> 
> Just like the commercial....set it, and forget it!


That is like the ones I used to get, I lost my last one and can't find them around here anymore!


----------



## Michaelcookplum

deerslayer said:


> That is like the ones I used to get, I lost my last one and can't find them around here anymore!


Mine are made by Douglas and model 524


----------



## jeffreyplumber

Mainly a torpedo sometimes I use my empire grade level think its a 10 inch. Sure you dont need a grade level but mines easy to use and more accurate than guessing at bubbles.


----------



## Epox

If I'm running a particularly slim line of grade like 1/8th inch our inspector likes the increment level. And if has doubts checks it. He's never been disappointed though.


----------



## user4

I use a Greenlee electricians torpedo, they are made out of billet aluminum and have rare earth magnets in them, they are great for installing cast iron.


----------



## PlungerJockey

I picked up Milwaukee's new torpedo level designed with plumbers in mind today. It seems to be pretty well made. It is alittle heavy for a torpedo level. But it has 4 magnets, has marks for 1/8 and 1/4 inch fall and has a pipe reamer feature for pvc.

It actually shows on the package that it can be used to dig with.:thumbsup:
http://mechanical-hub.com/index.php/toolbox/10-torpedo-level-milwaukee-tool


----------



## Pipe Rat

:laughing::laughing::laughing: I'm sorry but they botched it on this concept.:laughing::laughing::laughing: My torpedo is a fine precision instrument that I rely on. No time soon am I gonna start reaming pipe and "DIGGING" with it. :no::no::no:


----------



## SlickRick

I still have a Watts "Green line" level from back in the '90's. They were like $90.00 back then, but Watts gave it to me while I was inspecting, hoping I would require them no doubt.... It didn't work.


----------



## GREENPLUM

PlungerJockey said:


> I picked up Milwaukee's new torpedo level designed with plumbers in mind today. It seems to be pretty well made. It is alittle heavy for a torpedo level. But it has 4 magnets, has marks for 1/8 and 1/4 inch fall and has a pipe reamer feature for pvc.
> 
> It actually shows on the package that it can be used to dig with.:thumbsup:
> http://mechanical-hub.com/index.php/toolbox/10-torpedo-level-milwaukee-tool


 
Want


----------



## JDGA80

An old orange ridgid with earth magnets that my supervisor gave me when I was an apprentice. Still use it, kinda sentimental I guess. Lol


----------



## JDGA80

It's been a while since I've been on a slab and we just made sure it was cracking the line on the level but isn't >4" pipe only required to have 1/16" per foot?


----------



## Pipe Rat

1/8 Building drain. 1/4 Building Sewer here


----------



## JDGA80

Pipe Rat said:


> 1/8 Building drain. 1/4 Building Sewer here


Your right, my bad, I need to get my code book off the floorboard more often. I might have had that number in my head from the taper rate on NPT threads.


----------



## Relic

No major preference in torpedo levels, but any I use must have earth magnets. Hate levels falling off 20 ft. in the air.


----------



## Pipe Rat

I tried the earth magnets but they wont stick to my copper or pvc. Junk I tell ya.


----------



## Relic

Pipe Rat said:


> I tried the earth magnets but they wont stick to my copper or pvc. Junk I tell ya.


Have to yank'em off that unistrut though :laughing: 

I do a lot of gas line work in sch.40 steel they work great.


----------



## theplumbinator

I use the Lenox torpedo, also have a 2' & 4' Johnson for tubs and showers or steam returns, building sewer or storm conductor I use laser.


----------



## JDGA80

^^I wish I had a 2' Johnson


----------



## theplumbinator

Lmao, all the ladies would run away when they saw it...


----------



## localguy630

8" Johnson, gets the job done, 2' husky for sewers. No pitch levels no problems either. Usually use em till I can't make out the bubbles anymore.


----------

