# ways to winterize a house



## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

i know this sounds stupid to ask,but will you guys and gals please list the ways that you winterize houses for the winter????from start to end i was wondering how everybody did it as i know everyone does things differently.thanks for the replies ahead of time.:thumbup::thumbup:


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## Burner tech (Oct 24, 2013)

Here in Florida we set the a/c to 78.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Burner tech said:


> Here in Florida we set the a/c to 78.













...:laughing:....





There was frost on my florida windshield the other morning....brrrrr....we had to flip the heat on that night.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

Tommy plumber said:


> ...:laughing:....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


lucky lucky lucky,is that cold enough to kill all them BIG snakes that are taking over florida????i sure would hate to go under a house down there and run into a snake 15ft long,esp if it hasnt eaten the family dog or cat yet.:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## Burner tech (Oct 24, 2013)

Regardless of the joke I made, I'm actually very interested in how to winterize.


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## SchmitzPlumbing (May 5, 2014)

i think there was a couple threads on this


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## Eric (Jan 10, 2011)

I use a tow behind air compressor. Connected directly after the water meter(shut off closed before the meter, or at the well tank if you have one. Power off and well tank drained. Use a washing machine hose on a draw off close by the main, if there is not one there, I would add it, and rig up the other end to a quick connect air fitting, so it can do it's thing and you can go thru the house... 

While the compressor is doing it's thing, first thing is a garden hose off the water heater drain and use the air to blow out the water out of the tank... does a great job, unless the drain is clogged.

Then hit each fixture until there is no more water or mist..... both hot and cold, one at a time, unless you use a big compressor like I have an 80 CFM one. You can have two guys hitting fixtures and not miss a beat. Hit the washing machine (run it to fill), dishwasher (run it to fill), outside faucets. Water dispenser in the fridge if there's one. You'd be surprised how much some of the ice maker stuff can be if you don't blow it out also. 

Once all water is out of the water piping, then some non toxic antifreeze down the traps, in the washing machine and drain it, in the dishwasher and drain it. If you have shallow well pump.... remove the plugs so it can drain. 

Shut off any heat that may be on and write up the bill. See ya in the spring.... Happy Holiday/Merry Christmas from us to you!!


Been doing it now a good 20-years this way, only issue was the outside faucet the guys didn't know was there and it froze. We fixed it at our cost of coarse, since it was our fault. Oh yeah and that ice maker line in the fridge, that sucked also, but only happened once... and we took care of it. :thumbsup:


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

SchmitzPlumbing said:


> i think there was a couple threads on this


There was but not much actual detail in the earlier posts,was wanting to hear how plumbers further up north went about doing this


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

Eric said:


> I use a tow behind air compressor. Connected directly after the water meter(shut off closed before the meter, or at the well tank if you have one. Power off and well tank drained. Use a washing machine hose on a draw off close by the main, if there is not one there, I would add it, and rig up the other end to a quick connect air fitting, so it can do it's thing and you can go thru the house...
> 
> While the compressor is doing it's thing, first thing is a garden hose off the water heater drain and use the air to blow out the water out of the tank... does a great job, unless the drain is clogged.
> 
> ...


How did you blow out the ice maker???


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Eric said:


> I use a tow behind air compressor. Connected directly after the water meter(shut off closed before the meter, or at the well tank if you have one. Power off and well tank drained. Use a washing machine hose on a draw off close by the main, if there is not one there, I would add it, and rig up the other end to a quick connect air fitting, so it can do it's thing and you can go thru the house...
> 
> While the compressor is doing it's thing, first thing is a garden hose off the water heater drain and use the air to blow out the water out of the tank... does a great job, unless the drain is clogged.
> 
> ...


No Substitute For Big Air....:thumbup:


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## Eric (Jan 10, 2011)

sparky said:


> How did you blow out the ice maker???


The only customer we had with one also had a water dispenser which we now blow out.

The problem we had was the water filter in the fridge broke by freezing, from us not getting the water out of it. By blowing out from the dispenser, we get the water out of the filter.


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## plumsolver (Apr 7, 2011)

We use suction, same idea but backwards we do mostly cottages but if they are not set up to drain then once pump and hot water tank are drained, turn shop vac on a hose bibb hold a coffee cup of non toxic antifreeze under each faucet for a second and it will draw in. Then use vac to drain w.c s and clean slime /sand/crud out of tank and add anti freeze 1" over hole to cover in bowel just enough in tank to cover seals. I've found that vac will get out what compressed air won't and if you need to blow out the 40$ shop vac has a blower attachment on back. Also I have 6 softeners in my basement cause apparently at -40 it doesn't matter what you do they will split... anyone have a solution for that I would be glad to here it cause its a pain slugging those things around!!


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## Gruvplumbing (Dec 26, 2013)

Don't any one pump antifreeze through the water lines to winterize houses?


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## plungerboy (Oct 17, 2013)

Gruvplumbing said:


> Don't any one pump antifreeze through the water lines to winterize houses?


How would you calculate how much juice you need. 

I have thought about it, only because my Jetter has an antifreeze system so I could pump it into the house. I imagine I would hook up to the main water and then turn the pump on & them run the furthest fixture. 

Has anyone tried this ???


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

I bet the water would taste great for about a month after reopening the sytem even with flushing if antifreeze was used...


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## Cajunhiker (Dec 14, 2009)

Gruvplumbing said:


> Don't any one pump antifreeze through the water lines to winterize houses?


I would be concerned about backflow.

Without a backflow preventer, any kind of back pressure or back siphonage event would put you in a heap of trouble. Doh! as Homer would say.


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## plungerboy (Oct 17, 2013)

Redwood said:


> I bet the water would taste great for about a month after reopening the sytem even with flushing if antifreeze was used...


Good point


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

Cajunhiker said:


> I would be concerned about backflow.
> 
> Without a backflow preventer, any kind of back pressure or back siphonage event would put you in a heap of trouble. Doh! as Homer would say.


As long as the meter is off how would it go past the meter???most meters have check valves on them nowadays


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## Cajunhiker (Dec 14, 2009)

sparky said:


> As long as the meter is off how would it go past the meter???most meters have check valves on them nowadays


Meter off. Too much can go wrong. Does meter hold tight? What if meter is turned on while you are away and antifreeze isn't first properly flushed out? Meter will eventually be turned on, presumably to flush antifreeze. I suppose a little antifreeze backflowing into water supply wouldn't make too many people sick. Oopsie

Check valves are not adequate backflow prevention devices.


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## plungerboy (Oct 17, 2013)

Cajunhiker said:


> Meter off. Too much can go wrong. Does meter hold tight? What if meter is turned on while you are away and antifreeze isn't first properly flushed out? Meter will eventually be turned on, presumably to flush antifreeze. I suppose a little antifreeze backflowing into water supply wouldn't make too many people sick. Oopsie
> 
> Check valves are not adequate backflow prevention devices.


Isn't the solution to pollution dilution??haha. 

I never read the label of RV anti freeze but a little bit can't hurt. Right. Haha


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

plungerboy said:


> How would you calculate how much juice you need.
> 
> I have thought about it, only because my Jetter has an antifreeze system so I could pump it into the house. I imagine I would hook up to the main water and then turn the pump on & them run the furthest fixture.
> 
> Has anyone tried this ???


 Why don't you just pump air into the system?????


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

rjbphd said:


> Why don't you just pump air into the system?????


Zackly!

Blow the water out and air doesn't freeze....
We have a bunch we do in the late fall...
A dedicated crew does them for about a week with a rental compressor they tow around...


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

Redwood said:


> Zackly!
> 
> Blow the water out and air doesn't freeze....
> We have a bunch we do in the late fall...
> A dedicated crew does them for about a week with a rental compressor they tow around...


What do ya'll charge to winterize a house red?????


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

sparky said:


> What do ya'll charge to winterize a house red?????


We charge a basic show up charge, then in addition it depends on the size of the house, water supply system, the number of fixtures, heating system, etc.

A 1 bath house on municipal water, tank water heater, with furnace, A/C installed, humidifier, 2 outside sillcocks, will run $350. Additional charge would apply if there are problems draining water heater.


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## nhmaster3015 (Aug 5, 2008)

Set it on fire and move to the islands. :thumbup:


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## plungerboy (Oct 17, 2013)

rjbphd said:


> Why don't you just pump air into the system?????


I do. I was curious if anybody has pumped a house full of RV.


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## nhmaster3015 (Aug 5, 2008)

Why would you?


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## plungerboy (Oct 17, 2013)

nhmaster3015 said:


> Why would you?


Ask OP.

I can see some merit in it if you knew it was going to be sitting for a long long time. Like a hunting cabin where you don't drink the water or dumpy a$$ bank owned home that you know won't sell.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

plungerboy said:


> Dumpy a$$ bank owned home that you know won't sell.


Then why waste $5/gallon antifreeze?

Pull the meter open all the valves until the water stops coming out, splash some antifreeze in the toilets and trap, and say it is done, if it never sells who would know?:laughing:

That's what most of the companies that do bank owned homes do anyway regardless of whether they will sell or not... At least judging by the repairs being made in them by us when they do sell...:laughing:

We primarily do winterizations for seasonal homes where the owner would like to reopen the house and not have damage....

Foreclosure home winterizations don't pay well enough for us to be interested...


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## johnh (Jul 6, 2013)

standard procedure to winterize a RV is to pump it full of anti-freeze. Hence the term RV anti-freeze LOL. Granted a RV isn't a house though.


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## Gruvplumbing (Dec 26, 2013)

If you don't have a big a** air compressor how else are you supposed to do it. Also it only takes about 4 to 5 gal. And that's with dumping in the toilets and sinks.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Gruvplumbing said:


> If you don't have a big a** air compressor how else are you supposed to do it. Also it only takes about 4 to 5 gal. And that's with dumping in the toilets and sinks.


Well you might try what some of the other guys here do with smaller compressors and use the water heater as a receiver to store the compressed air so you have enough volume to blow the lines out. It will be more time consuming, but we don't have a large compressor either, we rent one to do the work...


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## Gruvplumbing (Dec 26, 2013)

Redwood said:


> Well you might try what some of the other guys here do with smaller compressors and use the water heater as a receiver to store the compressed air so you have enough volume to blow the lines out. It will be more time consuming, but we don't have a large compressor either, we rent one to do the work...


That's a thought. But time consuming like you said. 

Anybody give a guarantee on a winterization.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Redwood said:


> Well you might try what some of the other guys here do with smaller compressors and use the water heater as a receiver to store the compressed air so you have enough volume to blow the lines out. It will be more time consuming, but we don't have a large compressor either, we rent one to do the work...


I rent those bigger compressor to blow out water well..


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Gruvplumbing said:


> Anybody give a guarantee on a winterization.


Nope! But the ones we have done have a high degree of success making it through the winter without damage from freezing...


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

I knew an old German couple from NJ that would use vodka to winterize their fuel lines in their boat when they took the boat out of the water for the winter.


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

Open the main and bleed down, start 5 gal shop vac and tape hose to main. Water ram one supply at a time top floor down with craftsman compressor. Single handle showers get spools removed. antifreeze in the traps to keep sewer gas out. Dishwasher supplies fridge supplies get pulled or vacuumed especially in the case of a filtration system. Close the supplies or bugs will get in.


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## wyplumber (Feb 14, 2013)

We own a big compressor and do about twenty houses a year. Can only remember once there was a problem and the boss fixed it for free. It is a ingersoll rand 185 Cfm get the job done fast.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

Gruvplumbing said:


> If you don't have a big a** air compressor how else are you supposed to do it. Also it only takes about 4 to 5 gal. And that's with dumping in the toilets and sinks.


I was wondering the same thing,as I don't have access to a large compressor,red you don't think that a person can use one of the portable compressors and get the water blown down low enough in the pipe so that it wouldn't freeze,or if it did freeze it would have enough room to expand up the pipe????also you mentioned the heating/av system,what do you do to that other than the condensate line and pump????do you think putting 80 to 100 lbs air in the water heater hurts the elements and whatnot????


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

I have learned a lot from this thread,and it sure sounds like a lot of us have been doing it wrong or not as thorough as first thought!!!!keep the comments/tips coming:thumbup:


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## plungerboy (Oct 17, 2013)

Redwood said:


> Then why waste $5/gallon antifreeze?
> 
> Pull the meter open all the valves until the water stops coming out, splash some antifreeze in the toilets and trap, and say it is done, if it never sells who would know?:laughing:
> 
> ...


It was a hypothetical situation.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

sparky said:


> I was wondering the same thing,as I don't have access to a large compressor,red you don't think that a person can use one of the portable compressors and get the water blown down low enough in the pipe so that it wouldn't freeze,or if it did freeze it would have enough room to expand up the pipe????also you mentioned the heating/av system,what do you do to that other than the condensate line and pump????do you think putting 80 to 100 lbs air in the water heater hurts the elements and whatnot????


The problem with low air flow and not blowing all of the water out of the pipes is that the water will settle back to a low area filling the pipe so it will split when it freezes. You need to get it all out! On faucets remove the aerator to increase the airflow when blowing out the lines.

Heating systems and HVAC systems yes it is the condensate pump and trap that needs to have antifreeze put in it. If the furnace has a humidifier that needs to have the supply line blown out. If they have a boiler then it needs to be either drained down and lines blown out or, Cryo Tek added in sufficient volume for protection.

Compressed air will not harm a good water heater unless you plug the T&P and go over 150 psi. However, if the water heater is in very bad condition and about to rupture there could be a problem since compressed air holds more stored energy than water under pressure. If a water heater does have a problem there was going to be a problem with it really soon anyway...


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

Redwood said:


> The problem with low air flow and not blowing all of the water out of the pipes is that the water will settle back to a low area filling the pipe so it will split when it freezes. You need to get it all out! On faucets remove the aerator to increase the airflow when blowing out the lines.
> 
> Heating systems and HVAC systems yes it is the condensate pump and trap that needs to have antifreeze put in it. If the furnace has a humidifier that needs to have the supply line blown out. If they have a boiler then it needs to be either drained down and lines blown out or, Cryo Tek added in sufficient volume for protection.
> 
> Compressed air will not harm a good water heater unless you plug the T&P and go over 150 psi. However, if the water heater is in very bad condition and about to rupture there could be a problem since compressed air holds more stored energy than water under pressure. If a water heater does have a problem there was going to be a problem with it really soon anyway...


Thanks:thumbup::thumbup:


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## paultheplumber1 (May 1, 2014)

My company does about 250-300 houses a year. Most are summer shacks single bath and kitchen that have been piped up to drain. Each home is approached a little diff. Newer larger homes we pump rv antifreeze through out the home usually a hose wye hooked to the wash machine valve.we have about ten of those. Mostly it works like this. 1) drain all water and pump out tanks. 2) it's mostly symmons shower valves around here and if u don't pull the spindle it will freeze, maybe not the first year but for sure the 2nd or 3rd year. 3) remove the tops off all ball cocks dump a little RV down the line. 4) depending on how easy the faucet spindles come out especially old basin cocks we will remove them and dump some RV down those as well. 5) bail the toilets tanks and bowls and add RV. 6) pull all dishwasher and ice maker valves, label and tag them and bring them back to the heated office. It sounds like alot if you've done the house a few seasons you can bang them out in no time. We have one guy that's worked for us for 30 plus years that takes the lead every year. He has most key numbers and alarm codes memorized.


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## paultheplumber1 (May 1, 2014)

In alot of the old homes especially ones with the old basin cocks or any that still take bib washer. We automatically change the washers and toilet tank flappers in the spring. Same with kit faucets ( alot of delta 400s here). You should see the sales reps swarm our shop at the first sign of spring looking for the turn on orders.


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