# Cable question.



## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

So I was planing on buying a Ridgid K3800 a while back but I let my wife convince me to wait a while. I am now ready to buy the k3800 with 3 drums 1/2", 3/8" and 5/16". I am also ready to buy a general speedrooter 92 with 5/8" cable. 

I believe I heard that the 5/16" will be as good as a 1/4" for going through tub overflow and 11/2" p-trap plus 11/4" galvanized drain. What would you guys recommend 1/4" or 5/16"?

For 3/8" and 1/2" I believe I can put another brand of cable in the k3800 the way it attaches in the drum. Is this correct or would I need an adaptor? If so then what cable would you guys recommend? Ridgid or general, or other?

I am not too happy about the screw in the general connectors but I like the 2 set screws on Gorlitz connectors is there an adaptor or others way of changing that in case the general is what you guys recommend?

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## V.A Hydro-ooter (Oct 14, 2018)

I would recommend using 1/4" for small drains and galvanized. I've gotten it to go through 3/4" PVC before. 

As far as brands, you can definitely use other brand cables. I've had great luck with Duracable. The cables are just held in the drum by a type of clamp so it doesn't matter what brand you use.

I've actually never attached my cables to the drums except for my mainline machine. It was just my preference, I'm sure others prefer it attached.

The cables I have for my 3800 have the threaded male ends which I think is better than the general and Ridgid attachment heads. I find I can take tight bends easier with that. Not as easy as an open wound 5/8 cable but I know that's not the direction you're going.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

I use sectional cables. So I can't really join in this conversation.

I use the Ridgid 7/8", 5/8" and 5/16" cables.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

I haven’t used a 3800, but I usually prefer the 1/4 over the 5/16. IMHO, the only advantage of 5/16 longer life.


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## Venomthirst (Jun 20, 2018)

1/4" is good but it kinks really easy I prefer 5/16 especially if you snake galvanized drains... you wont have a problem getting it around plastic or brass trap even cast got gotten around before... 

drum traps... not so much

I own a k3800 and use one every day really good machine... the grommet that hold the power cord into the machine is weak I leave enough slack to allow for full motion then zip tie or tape cord to cart... if you do more than houses cart is way to go..

3/8 cable for 1.5" and up it will go through anything damn near... when I have a new cable I bend a straight auger to go around bends much easier as you snake a couple hundred drains it loosens up... 

1/2" cable no experience as I usually put 5/8" through toilet stacks but it would be just fine.. all around good machine..

Tango has guide hose for his machine which would be handy for bathtubs or basins in tight bathrooms I usually put whole machine in tub and sometimes its.tight in a small bathroom..

Sludge line kitchens multiple passes required. K50 is better in that department.... apartment building kitchen stacks k3800 is best machine


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

OpenSights said:


> I haven’t used a 3800, but I usually prefer the 1/4 over the 5/16. IMHO, the only advantage of 5/16 longer life.


So why 1/4" over 5/16"? Does 5/16" not go through tub overflow and trap as well as 1/4"? I have not tried the 5/16". I only know the 1/4" and I feel like it is a limp #@=& but it is the only thing that I have tried that will go through 11/4" galvanized or copper lines. I would imagine that the 5/16" would also go through those lines just fine but have more strength.

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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

The Dane said:


> So why 1/4" over 5/16"? Does 5/16" not go through tub overflow and trap as well as 1/4"? I have not tried the 5/16". I only know the 1/4" and I feel like it is a limp #@=& but it is the only thing that I have tried that will go through 11/4" galvanized or copper lines. I would imagine that the 5/16" would also go through those lines just fine but have more strength.
> 
> Sent from my BLN-L24 using Tapatalk


Tub drain or the rare 1 1/4” drain is all I use 1/4” cable for and that’s in a vee drill. My next size cable is 3/8 for sinks, floor drains...

Every drain cleaner is different! What works for me won’t work for you and vice versa.

Using a kink can make a cable do amazing things. Each cable and kink is different for me.


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

OpenSights said:


> Tub drain or the rare 1 1/4” drain is all I use 1/4” cable for and that’s in a vee drill. My next size cable is 3/8 for sinks, floor drains...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


1/4" I have used just like you only on tubs and 11/4" drains. 1/2" I use on a clog inside the house where I have to pull a toilet so I know it won't be tree roots and also going through old cast iron floor drain cleanouts. 3/8" I use in sink drains. I also like a slight kink at the end of the cable to help go through 90° fittings.

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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

The Dane said:


> 1/4" I have used just like you only on tubs and 11/4" drains. 1/2" I use on a clog inside the house where I have to pull a toilet so I know it won't be tree roots and also going through old cast iron floor drain cleanouts. 3/8" I use in sink drains. I also like a slight kink at the end of the cable to help go through 90° fittings.
> 
> Sent from my BLN-L24 using Tapatalk


1/4” z pattern, one kink for the rest. I only use 1/2” for copper with a big warning!


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

So I have come to believe that the general cables might be the way to go. I am though having concerns because one of our other guys just had the screw and cutter come of the cable in a sewer the other day. When I first became a plumber I also lost a cutter and screw. So I really don't trust the way general attaches with just a screw.

Is there really not a good way to get different ends on a general cable? Or is there another cable that is also really good but with better ends? 

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## V.A Hydro-ooter (Oct 14, 2018)

The Dane said:


> So I have come to believe that the general cables might be the way to go. I am though having concerns because one of our other guys just had the screw and cutter come of the cable in a sewer the other day. When I first became a plumber I also lost a cutter and screw. So I really don't trust the way general attaches with just a screw.
> 
> Is there really not a good way to get different ends on a general cable? Or is there another cable that is also really good but with better ends?
> 
> Sent from my BLN-L24 using Tapatalk


Yes. These Duracable with the threaded male ends. Hollow core is all you need for branch lines. They're easy to repair in the field and they're very durable. I would get the 1/4" with no end since all you're doing is pulling out hair from tubs and showers with it. Like others have said, put a kink or z on the end. It'll scour the pipe well.

If you're planning on using the 1/2" cable in 3 or 4 inch lines then I'd go with an innercore cable for that one.


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

V.A Hydro-ooter said:


> Yes. These Duracable with the threaded male ends. Hollow core is all you need for branch lines. They're easy to repair in the field and they're very durable. I would get the 1/4" with no end since all you're doing is pulling out hair from tubs and showers with it. Like others have said, put a kink or z on the end. It'll scour the pipe well.
> 
> If you're planning on using the 1/2" cable in 3 or 4 inch lines then I'd go with an innercore cable for that one.


1/2" would only be for 2"-3" branch lines and never for 4" main sewer.

It will be 5/8" or 11/16" for main sewers.

For smaller cables in branch lines I done mind getting a hollow core cable and then a screw in cable connector of a different style than generals screw style. I was thinking the general cable for main sewers would be good but I since the inner core prevents a screw in connector I would be stuck with the general connector style unless you could get a screw in style connector and cut off the screw in part and weld the tip on the end of the cable but I'm not sure if you can do that since generals quick fix screw over the cable connectors says you should not try to weld it in place.

Duracable might be a way to go but I wonder how to then connect that to the 5' anchor cable in the general machine.

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## Venomthirst (Jun 20, 2018)

If you use a lock washer...
And change the screw often shouldn't be an issue... I sometimes use a longer screw and I put a nut and lock washer on other end as well... 

Only time I've had an issue was on a long battle like hours of snaking it with a worn down screw


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## V.A Hydro-ooter (Oct 14, 2018)

The Dane said:


> V.A Hydro-ooter said:
> 
> 
> > Yes. These Duracable with the threaded male ends. Hollow core is all you need for branch lines. They're easy to repair in the field and they're very durable. I would get the 1/4" with no end since all you're doing is pulling out hair from tubs and showers with it. Like others have said, put a kink or z on the end. It'll scour the pipe well.
> ...


All those cables I recommended were for the k-3800. I missed the part where you were asking for a general machine. I'm guessing that's for the main line machine you already have? 

I use 11/16" hollow core cable in my main line machine but I don't have to deal with 6" pipes here. Mine has slip joint connectors which are then secured with a small bolt. I've never had an issue with those slipping or breaking off.


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## Venomthirst (Jun 20, 2018)

You could use a general connector... drill the tapping out and put a bolt through If you were worried about it loosening off


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

V.A Hydro-ooter said:


> All those cables I recommended were for the k-3800. I missed the part where you were asking for a general machine. I'm guessing that's for the main line machine you already have?
> 
> I use 11/16" hollow core cable in my main line machine but I don't have to deal with 6" pipes here. Mine has slip joint connectors which are then secured with a small bolt. I've never had an issue with those slipping or breaking off.


I don't already have the machines but am about to buy the machines now. I'll be buying the Ridgid k3800 with different cables and all I have used in those smaller cables is hollow core so I can get hollow core cable from Duracable cable and screw in an slip joint connector with the 2 set screws. 

I am also buying the general speedrooter 92 for main lines. I will pretty much just be doing residential 3"-4" lines maybe a random rare 6" and almost always under 100'. I heard that the general inner core cable was really good so since it is a general machine it makes sense to get it but after another guy lost a cutter the other day I am really not liking the idea of the general connector ends. Then I realised that you can't screw in a different connector to the general cable and the 5' anchor cable might also not work with another brand of cable and connector.

I was thinking that the inner core cable in 5/8" would be good for what I would get in to and also save some weight. Maybe 3/4" hollow core would be better for being able to use slip joint ends.

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## Venomthirst (Jun 20, 2018)

Drain cables direct... is what we use... general flexicore cables break.. had one break first use


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## V.A Hydro-ooter (Oct 14, 2018)

I've not heard good things about general cables but I haven't used them myself so I can't opine. 

For the main line machine I would still recommend the 11/16" cable if you aren't going to do much 6". It is strong, has enough flexibility for 3" bends and relatively lightweight. I have one in my drum machine that has done over 1,000 main sewer lines. The cable is still ok but it's starting to be a bit too flexible. Not enough to warrant replacement with the spare I have but maybe in another 100 drains, haha. That should give you an idea to the durability. I've cut many roots with it so it's not like it only sees lite work. Your mileage may vary as I've seen inexperienced guys twist them into a pretzel with less than 50 uses. 

I carry 100 feet in the drum and that is pretty heavy. I can only imagine how much heavier 100' of 3/4 would be. My knee doctor would be able to put another kid through college.

Everyone has their preference on connectors. I love the simplicity of the Ridgid connectors on the sectional cables I have. It's a 10 seconds or less replacement of heads. No screws to lose or strip. I also like the slip joint fitting from Duracable. All it takes is loosening on or 2 bolts and you can swap out an attachment or link a new cable. Technically you're supposed to have 2 bolts, one on each side of the slip attachment, but one will prevent it from coming apart. 

I have several cutters and each one has its own adapter so swapping them out is a breeze. 

Perhaps the 5' tail that the general machine comes with can have a threaded male or female end so you can screw on whatever attachment the cable of your choice comes with.


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## Fatpat (Nov 1, 2015)

I’ve owned gorlitz, ridgid, and now duracable.
(As an employee I have used spartan & electric ell)
Duracable by far is the best designed & highest quality machine I’ve even ran. 

I run 1/4, 3/8 Hollowcore and 5/8 innercore.

Ridgid and duracable make the best cables by far, and general cables in my opinion are trash.

Gorlitz & spartan are also good quality and worth a look at.


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## V.A Hydro-ooter (Oct 14, 2018)

I have the Duracable Dm150 for branch lines. I don't use it much anymore since I switched to sectionals. It's definitely a well built machine. I prefer the k-3800 due to the drums. I find it's easier to push and pull the cable in the Ridgid drums. 

I also own a Dm175 and a k-7500. I prefer the ergonomics of the Ridgid but if I know it will be a long run and I need power then I'll pull out the Duracable machine. This is all assuming I won't be using my sectionals or drill for whatever reason.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Not sure why you guys are breaking general cables that easily. I use a 5/8"x100' general cable in my speedrooter 92 and 5/16" general cables in the chuck of my drill. I also have a drum of 3/4"x75' for the 92.




Yes 5/16" will go through almost any pipe that 1/4" will and it's much more betterer  It probably wouldn't do 3/4" ips/pvc but when would you need to? I have never needed to do that. Either way a drum of 1/4" doesn't take up much space if you want to carry one.


My 5/8" cable is my go to and will handle just about anything in 4" and the occasional 5". For 6" I would use my 3/4" if I had to do it but frankly 6" is best being jetted or snaked with a sectional. The 5/8" will go through 2" dwv 90's but is still more than strong enough for tons of roots in 4" clay/cast.



The last 5/8" cable I "broke" was a couple months ago, lady had a grounding rod through her 4" cast iron and roots/partially collapsed section after. The quick repair fitting I had on unscrewed with some crescent heads in it when I tried to come back past the grunding rod with a bunch of roots. I then ran my root ripper head on a new quick repair fitting and managed to grab the first head I lost. I almost got it to come back past the grounding rod but got bound up and the outer wrap of my cable broke 5' back from the head. With the inner core still intact I managed to get my rootriper head untangled and back past the grounding rod. The line was open and running. I told her what the case was and that if she had any more issues to call the excavator who lived ten houses down. This was the eighth or so time I had snaked this line in about 3 years. I knew I shouldn't do what I did but I had to try, old lady living alone, couldn't just tell her she was SOL, yada yada yada. I say "broke" because it's just the outer wrap and you don't end up leaving a length of cable in their sewer.





I have used a gorlitz cable and didn't like it. way too floppy for the diameter and kinks easier. Ridgid cables are garbage if I am to judge by the 5/16" and 3/8" cables that came with our k-50af.




I love my general cables. I like the screw connector too. You can buy extra screws. When the threads look worn and the lock washer is flatish I throw it away and use a new screw. If you're that worried get some stainless socket head cap screws that stick out the other side like 5/16" and use a nylock nut. The screw connector gives me options to attach weird bits I make myself in the field to overcome the oddball situations.












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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

KIYATGI22 said:


> I am not too happy about the screw in the general connectors but I like the 2 set screws on Gorlitz connectors is there an adaptor or others way of changing that in case the general is what you guys recommend?





what recommended is you do a proper intro before your balls get cut off...


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

KIYATGI22 said:


> I am not too happy about the screw in the general connectors but I like the 2 set screws on Gorlitz connectors is there an adaptor or others way of changing that in case the general is what you guys recommend?





If ya really need one I can give ya a good screw.




















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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Sorry about the lewd comment. I've done a lot of drinking. I bought a 32 rack.


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