# Bidet Install Help



## Dat dude (Oct 30, 2018)

So we have a Durabit bidet we’re installing but there is currently no way to connect the drain as it sits all the way against the wall with no access. We’ll have to prefab the drain, trap and water supply but need to find a solution to connecting the drain. Is there any fitting that has an interior donut/gasket the trap arm can slide into?


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

no access from below? its been a while since I installed one of those water fountains...


----------



## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Like what model is it? Or be helpful and post a pic of what exactly you're dealing with. I've done many bidets and they are all different. Some installed like a lav. If it is and you're just using a trap adapter and tubular trap, you can start it in the adapter and have the nut tight, and then slowly push it back.

I had to do that to get this pedestal lav installed, i also have to do the with some tubs. Grease on the plastic seal helps. Ptraps with those rubbery blue seals instead of just the plastic seal thingys do not like this method. And over test the bidet, i filled and/or let that lav run for a couple hours while doing other things to make sure it didn't leak before i siliconed it.


----------



## Plumbus (Aug 4, 2008)

If you roughed it in according to the installation guide, you shouldn't have too much of a problem. As for the ptrap, it should have been installed below floor so that needs to be done is dropping the tail piece over the waste connector, as suggested above. Even a tight fit will give under the weight of the fixture and a little elbow grease. Since your shut off valves have to be accessible, connect the flexes to the bidet before you set it, then connect them to the valves once set.


----------



## Dat dude (Oct 30, 2018)

There are literally zero instructions, this thing is made in Germany and our Italian client ordered it online. There is no access as this thing is one a first floor block home and sits directly on the outside wall. There is a tile baseboard installed which gives us 1/2” off the wall, I think our solution is to cut back the stub out so that just the male adapter sticks out and our nut is already on. Then we slide it back and get a set of big channel locks on it to tighten the nut. Here is the piece. https://www.supply.com/duravit-me-by-starck-bidet-2289100000/p643985


----------



## Dat dude (Oct 30, 2018)

@chonkie, that looks very similar to our situation...


----------



## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Dat dude said:


> There are literally zero instructions, this thing is made in Germany and our Italian client ordered it online. There is no access as this thing is one a first floor block home and sits directly on the outside wall. There is a tile baseboard installed which gives us 1/2” off the wall, I think our solution is to cut back the stub out so that just the male adapter sticks out and our nut is already on. Then we slide it back and get a set of big channel locks on it to tighten the nut. Here is the piece. https://www.supply.com/duravit-me-by-starck-bidet-2289100000/p643985


Just a reminder, for me I don't install anything that has no homologations. It floods the place the insurance doesn't cover anything.


----------



## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

I can tell you that if they had you install the same faucet that is in the pic on the link you posted ... they are not going to like that faucet. I've installed two of those specifically and the homeowner ended up not liking them. Just imaging trying to wash your a$$ or junk with that setup and you'll understand why. Might have them do a test sitting before caulking it down. Could save time by not having to fight pulling it to change out the faucet. Maybe have them do a dry test sitting before you even hook it up to see if it may be an issue. Yes, i do this often when I think there will be an issue because I hate issues.


----------



## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

Well your spec sheet is on the age you provided.

First it appears you need rear access, unless you use some long braided lines. Gotta love it when a client makes a choice before speaking with us.

https://assets.supply.com/ul_pdfs/441495_SpecSheet.pdf


----------



## Plumbus (Aug 4, 2008)

Try this number and see if they can help you.
*Customer Service / Technical Support:*
Phone 888-DURAVIT
8 am - 6 pm (EST) Mo - Fri
[email protected]


----------



## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

One more question, why are yall mounting the bidet so close to the wall that you can't access the supplies and drain nut. I can't recall ever having to mount a bidet to where I couldn't get a hand on the final connections.

Seems like based off the pdf, it doesnt HAVE to go against the wall since there is nothing on the floor that requires a specific location. Just depends where you mount the clips to screw the bidet to. Or on some bidets where you place the concrete lag bolts (or whatever they are) they send.

So basically move the clips, the ones side screws go to, away from the wall and problem solved.


----------



## Dat dude (Oct 30, 2018)

Thanks for all the info! That is a smart idea to have the client dry fit it, in case there is an issue. We roughed in the valves and drain according to specs the provided and explained that we needed to set it off the wall as there was no way to connect the drain. He didn’t like that answer, so we said we’d try to accommodate him. We’re supposed to finish the job on Monday, so I’ll follow up how we decide to do it. I agree that its pretty frustrating when clients just go buy fixtures. For example, this guy bought a matching Duravit toilet, but failed to verify he only had a 10” rough.. last minute we now have to cut some of the new porcelain tile to install an offset flange.


----------



## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Fyi, never roughing the toilets at 10" is ALWAYS the best idea. Are you working under a licensed journeyman?


----------



## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

ItSometimes it is best to not accommodate homeowners. I do it all the time. I would do it in this case. Tell him it is an issue having it all the way against the wall and WHEN there is a leak, not IF because we all know eventually it will happen, then the damages will be sooo much higher if it inaccessible and unnoticeable for a longer period of time.

I told that the the homeowner of that pedestal sink pic I posted, that i will do my best and overtest it, but that all plumbing will eventually have an issue and if caulk it to the wall and floor, it's going to do more damage before she notices. She didn't care. Your homeowner might. 

Also make the HO aware that flex supplies are SUPPOSED to only be installed in accessible areas, so it CAN'T be against the wall by code unless he wants to install an access panel in opposite wall behind it.


----------



## ken53 (Mar 1, 2011)

*Looked on German sight*

Looked at the instruction for Germany all they said was drian through the floor. Water supplies through the wall. I think the bracket that holds it on the floor is all that comes with it. The faucet is seperate price.


----------



## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Dat dude said:


> So we have a Durabit bidet we’re installing but there is currently no way to connect the drain as it sits all the way against the wall with no access. We’ll have to prefab the drain, trap and water supply but need to find a solution to connecting the drain. Is there any fitting that has an interior donut/gasket the trap arm can slide into?




















Is the drain outlet on this bidet horizontal into the back wall or vertical down into the slab? 


You tell customer how and exactly where the bidet needs to be installed. 


Either way, you NEED access of course to secure the drain connections and to test those connections. Don't leave anything to chance just to accommodate the customer. 
If sewer gas leaks from drain connections or waste water leaks causing mold and mildew, they will definitely be calling you back {or worse you'll be contacted by an attorney that you're being sued} to repair your faulty installation. 
Remember to always cover your butt.


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

all fixtures installed as per manufactures rough in, if no instructions with what they supply it doesnt get roughed or installed till they have them, any additional costs the customer pays..its all in the fine print on my contract..it will cost you 20x the money you make in court if you dont follow install instructions, 30 years ago not so much, but nowa days everyone has a lawyer on speed dial..


----------



## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> all fixtures installed as per manufactures rough in, if no instructions with what they supply it doesnt get roughed or installed till they have them, any additional costs the customer pays..its all in the fine print on my contract..it will cost you 20x the money you make in court if you dont follow install instructions, 30 years ago not so much, but nowa days everyone has a lawyer on speed dial..


I'm taking notes!:thumbup:

I'm adding fixtures that need to be homologed too.


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Tango said:


> I'm taking notes!:thumbup:
> 
> I'm adding fixtures that need to be homologed too.



I did one job and the people were touring the world, they had big $$$$$$$$$$.
so they kept buying all this crap to install( all trades) the plumbing stuff was no name no stamps of approval anywhere, so I said they are a no go for me to install, but if you get written approval by the local inspector and I get a copy of said letter and proof of each fixture he approved, ill install them, this way when the inspector says no way , it takes the heat off me as being the bad guy..the people were more pissed at the people that sold them the crap and said it can be installed in the USA no problem..


----------



## Dat dude (Oct 30, 2018)

This is exactly why I joined this forum. Your guys insight is seriously invaluable as a apprentice plumber looking to learn as quickly as possible. I’m learning under a 28 year master plumber who’s well respected in the plumbing community here. I take all the insight I’ve learned here and we have discussions while we drive from job to job. Well either figure this job out or not install what the HO wants, nobody wants a lawsuit..


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Dat dude said:


> This is exactly why I joined this forum. Your guys insight is seriously invaluable as a apprentice plumber looking to learn as quickly as possible. I’m learning under a 28 year master plumber who’s well respected in the plumbing community here. I take all the insight I’ve learned here and we have discussions while we drive from job to job. Well either figure this job out or not install what the HO wants, nobody wants a lawsuit..



so why?? would you rough in a toilet for a 10" finish when 12 is the standard, unless the customer already had the new toilet and it was 10"...


----------



## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Dat dude said:


> This is exactly why I joined this forum. Your guys insight is seriously invaluable as a apprentice plumber looking to learn as quickly as possible. I’m learning under a 28 year master plumber who’s well respected in the plumbing community here. I take all the insight I’ve learned here and we have discussions while we drive from job to job. Well either figure this job out or not install what the HO wants, nobody wants a lawsuit..


As an employee you don't have to worry about as many things as a small one man shop business. As an apprentice you can get away with more, piping that isn't to code or badly installed, the journeyman will fix it or if the company is a big outfit, the volume of jobs and profits make up for the amount of fails.

As a OMS everything single thing you do can back fire, get sued, criminally or civilly, lose your sanity when someone files an official complaint, You can't sleep for weeks trying to prepare a defense. That's why the contractor tests you have more legal questions than anything else. You may lose all your money, lose your licence and go bankrupt. 

The very first rule is : Ignorance of the law is not an excuse.

However it doesn't apply to crook contractors, they don't know the laws, they don't care, they make sure it's shoddy work, they steal customer's money and make a run for it, Go bankrupt while hiding the cash and putting all their new toys and brand new wrapped truck under their girlfriend's name, start anew with a new company name.


----------



## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> so why?? would you rough in a toilet for a 10" finish when 12 is the standard, unless the customer already had the new toilet and it was 10"...


I think the journeyman lacks experience when he put it at 10", probably forgot to measure the thickness of glue for the tile, didn't measure the actual fixture to rough it in. Mindless.

I see this all the time, the guys roughing to whatever they think and when it's time for the finish they realize the pipes are exposed through the floor and it was a floating vanity. The P-trap lands in a drawer and you have to open walls again or hack the drawer.

When I do a reno their fixtures have to be on site before I start my rough in. Nowadays with all that fancy $hit nothing is standard. Toss out your common sense plumbing. Gone are the days of being a brainless plumber, it's all about being meticulous precisionist and being in a surgeon mindset.

Your rough is your finish.


My Reno before christmas the couple had bought a fancy no name brand toilet for a 12" flange that was originally there, however they were going to put tile behind it. I measured the actual toilet and told them putting tile wasn't going to fit.


----------



## Dat dude (Oct 30, 2018)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> so why?? would you rough in a toilet for a 10" finish when 12 is the standard, unless the customer already had the new toilet and it was 10"...


Yes, the client had already purchased and unboxed the 12” toilet but whoever did the rough did it for a 10” toilet. We only got to the job after the old toilet had been pulled and the new tile was there.


----------



## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Wait a minute, the pdf I saw did not show the drain in the floor, showed it from the wall. Which you also made it seem that is how it is roughed in. So which is it? If yall put the trap in the floor, just get it started and the push it down. If it's in the floor in the wrong spot, bust up concrete. Odds are that the bidet footprint would cover any tile around the drain that gets busted up too.


----------



## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

This thread has gone to hell. Post pics as this has become a guessing game at this point. Also seems someone on that project is not using any due diligence.


----------



## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> I did one job and the people were touring the world, they had big $$$$$$$$$$.
> so they kept buying all this crap to install( all trades) the plumbing stuff was no name no stamps of approval anywhere, so I said they are a no go for me to install, but if you get written approval by the local inspector and I get a copy of said letter and proof of each fixture he approved, ill install them, this way when the inspector says no way , it takes the heat off me as being the bad guy..the people were more pissed at the people that sold them the crap and said it can be installed in the USA no problem..


Yep, that's what I tell contractors in my area. I know someone writes their checks, let me know and I will be the bad guy. I have had a couple of large commercial jobs where the plumber went ahead and installed a system. I failed it and asked why did you install it, you knew it was a code violation.

Answer" because I did it the way the drawing was (even though the design from a different State). My answer to them your problem, as the "licensed" plumber your responsibility is install as per our adopted State code. Not do so then get paid to change it. If their contractor calls, I inform them I wrote the violation because the system design was not Illinois compliant and suggest he asked his plumbing contractor why he installed it that way and did not bring it to his attention prior to violating the code, then tell him they need to work it out.


----------



## Dat dude (Oct 30, 2018)

We ended up putting the trap adaptor as far back as possible with just the threads peaking out. This allowed us to satisfy the customer while also being able to get our hands on the nut to tighten. 

Thanks to all those that participated.


----------



## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Looks like the mandatory valve for the toilet will be hidden and unreachable?

I would of done it another way, leaving a gap between the wall and bidet is not nice to look at. Maybe a trim of some sort.


----------



## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Tango said:


> Looks like the mandatory valve for the toilet will be hidden and unreachable?
> 
> I would of done it another way, leaving a gap between the wall and bidet is not nice to look at. Maybe a trim of some sort.



hell just tell the people thats what the hand help shower is for...to wash your a$$ and pu$$y.....and massage mode for enjoyment...:vs_laugh::vs_laugh::vs_laugh:


----------



## Dat dude (Oct 30, 2018)

Tango said:


> Looks like the mandatory valve for the toilet will be hidden and unreachable?
> 
> I would of done it another way, leaving a gap between the wall and bidet is not nice to look at. Maybe a trim of some sort.


On the other side of the toilet we had to offset the valve with a 45, so there is access. As far as coming off the wall, that was our only option as the tile trim was installed prior to us setting the toilet or bidet. We did mention a trim could be used to hide the gap but he was happy as is.


----------

