# A few waste & vent pictures



## Nikolai (Dec 17, 2009)

I was sent out of a town a few weeks ago to rough-in a cabin for a kids summer camp. Some of hangers on the long run of 4" have slack because the pipes had severe bows to them. They were all adjusted when I went back down this last week to top it out.


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

Very nice clean looking work. Nice clear pictures. Good work.

I think putting in a clean-out where it is highly impractical to access is a part of the code that should come out. I had to snake a drain yesterday from a clean out positioned just like that. PITA. Good work regardless, its a code thing.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

do you guys normally start before the framer finishes?


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

Can someone explain to me why you would not wait till the walls were up, and then do the rough and top out at one time.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

Nice job, your work looks clean


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## Nikolai (Dec 17, 2009)

It doesn't make sense to me either but it wasn't my choice. My employer sent me down to do whatever could be done. They had their reasons but I think we were just slow at the time and they were trying to keep me busy which is fine. Had it been up to me, I would have waited for walls to go up.


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## SlickRick (Sep 3, 2009)

Nice work. :thumbup:


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

That is some very, very clean and tidy work.

Nice job.


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## drtyhands (Aug 16, 2008)

Nice,clean work.
Are you going back before they frame?
If so the framer would appreciate it if you could pull your cold pex for your lavatory down and re-drill so he can finish his 2X6 channel with the drywall nailer.
He'll just notch the X6 if you don't make it back before he stands the walls.Just trying to keep your brand of cleanliness going.

Do your framers end nail or toenail their walls in your area?
We got a new generation of illhandygeneral that are toenailing everything not inspected down here.


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## drtyhands (Aug 16, 2008)

What's the elevation change in the floor in that back corner?


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Good looking work.


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## Nikolai (Dec 17, 2009)

> If so the framer would appreciate it if you could pull your cold pex for your lavatory down and re-drill so he can finish his 2X6 channel with the drywall nailer.


That was going to be a chase for the WH vent but it got changed around the the chase was deleted. If that's what you're talking about.



> What's the elevation change in the floor in that back corner?


It's for a walk in refrigerator.


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## plumberkc (Jun 23, 2011)

So did you do this work over a weekend or did the framing crew just stop working for a few days? Seems like you could potentially have some issues with inspections, not to mention piss off the framers.


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## Nikolai (Dec 17, 2009)

The GC is staged on the jobsite and it's employees are doing all the work so there was plenty of communication to make sure we didn't have any conflicts. The building is large and all the plumbing was contained to the kitchen/bath area. No inspection on this either but we did test everything once it was topped out this past week.


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## drtyhands (Aug 16, 2008)

Nikolai said:


> That was going to be a chase for the WH vent but it got changed around the the chase was deleted. If that's what you're talking about.
> 
> It's for a walk in refrigerator.


Not really what I was refering to,it's no big deal.You'll see it after the walls are up.

Walk in refridgerator,in Alaska?
You didn't happen to notice where they are putting the Armory did you?


KC
Doing production projects the fabricated plastic was installed after joist,before sheeting and frame.
Also lets you check the framer's layout to prevent any issues requiring a lame head-out.Most of the time when the tubs are dropped.


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## Nikolai (Dec 17, 2009)

Here's a pic of that bathroom with the studs in, I'm still failing to understand the problem???


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## drtyhands (Aug 16, 2008)

Nikolai said:


> Here's a pic of that bathroom with the studs in, I'm still failing to understand the problem???


 I breeze through posts sometimes missing a key word.
"There *was* going to be a chase"
My thoughts were only on the first picture.
Clean work


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Nice job! :thumbsup: Man, what I would give to have that kind of space under a house. 

Question, in pic #2...Is that 2" ran to the opposite side of the 3" and then turned back in? I'm curious why. It looks like you had plenty of room to stay on the same side of the 3" or go into the top.

From the tidy nature of your work, you surely did it on purpose for a reason.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

plbgbiz said:


> Nice job! :thumbsup: Man, what I would give to have that kind of space under a house.
> 
> Question, in pic #2...Is that 2" ran to the opposite side of the 3" and then turned back in? I'm curious why. It looks like you had plenty of room to stay on the same side of the 3" or go into the top.
> 
> From the tidy nature of your work, you surely did it on purpose for a reason.


 It looks to me like he rolled the 3x2 combo back so he could have the room to cut in a 2" wye and still stay within the same plane as the 3" horizontal run.

That really is some tidy looking work.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Nikolai said:


> Here's a pic of that bathroom with the studs in, I'm still failing to understand the problem???


 I think most of the concerns are that very few of us start at the bottom and work our way up. Seeing the laterals in the crawl already run raises some questions.

Still -- It's obvious you care about your craft. I suspect you've already thought about how you're going to top out this project.

Looks great from my 'puter screen.:thumbup:


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## Nikolai (Dec 17, 2009)

plbgbiz said:


> Nice job! :thumbsup: Man, what I would give to have that kind of space under a house.
> 
> Question, in pic #2...Is that 2" ran to the opposite side of the 3" and then turned back in? I'm curious why. It looks like you had plenty of room to stay on the same side of the 3" or go into the top.
> 
> From the tidy nature of your work, you surely did it on purpose for a reason.


It's hard to tell, but the first 2" combo on it's side (floor sink drain) was only off center of the 4" by about 3" so there wasn't enough room to have the combo straight up and street 90 into the the 2" combo. Hence why I had to swing out and roll back in.

I'm not working out of a stocked box van either. I have to make a material list at the shop and take a 1/2 ton work truck to the jobsite so sometimes I have to get a little creative :laughing:

Thanks for the compliments!


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## Nikolai (Dec 17, 2009)

Here's some top out pics from last week. Floor sinks, floor drains, and grease interceptor will be set at trim. Some of the pex work isn't the nicest, but fittings were a little limited.

Vents for the grease interceptor. Left one will be after the P-trap before the drain goes under the floor and into the interceptor. Right one will go through the floor at trim and vent the outlet. Couldn't go through through the plate as a glue lamb was directly underneath. PIA to lay out the 3-compartment sink legs/drains and make sure the vents, water, and trap primer wouldn't be blocked. There's also going to be a floor drain and floor sink for future dishwasher installed at trim.









WH vents. Combustion air will be taken from below.









2-compartment sink goes here. Also going to have a floor drain(for walk-in fridge) and floor sink installed at trim.









Hand wash sink









Mop sink plumbing and another trap primer for the 3rd floor drain









Didn't want to have the elbow in the WB trap arm but couldn't drain under the outside wall due to another glue lamb.









Secondary regulator(using Propane) with 1 1/4" gas going up the range and 1 1/2" into the mechanical room for two 399K BTU LAARS water heaters. 









I'm going back down in about 5-6 weeks to trim it out and complete the mechanical room, I'll take some finished pics.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

very nice work

some of the holes are over bored


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

Very clean looking work....Thanks for the pics.


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## drtyhands (Aug 16, 2008)

Nikoli,
As others have said.You care about your work and it shows.
A tip.Loosen those straps on your ABS,the pipe needs to be able to expand and contract.
Have you ever heard that anoying tick-tick-ticking noise in the wall after running a load of hot water through a fixture.
I have been a part of opening up a wall and cieling to relieve the plastic from being bound up between a freeze block and the pipes hole.At least there was no crown molding in this closet.

have to go through this same explanation with most contractors and inspectors.


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## Plumbus (Aug 4, 2008)

Nice work. My only question is why have you used galvanized plumber's tape to hang the waste when these








are so much more user friendly w/plastic pipe?


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## AKdaplumba (Jan 12, 2010)

Looks good:thumbsup:


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## Nikolai (Dec 17, 2009)

drtyhands said:


> Nikoli,
> As others have said.You care about your work and it shows.
> A tip.Loosen those straps on your ABS,the pipe needs to be able to expand and contract.
> Have you ever heard that anoying tick-tick-ticking noise in the wall after running a load of hot water through a fixture.
> ...


Thanks for the heads up. I know you're suppose to leave PVC boiler vents with room to expand but I didn't think waste lines would expand enough to squeek. I'll be sure to leave some play from here on out.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

In your very last pic, I don't see any tracer wire coming up with the gas line. Was the gas line PE below grade? Here, we use PE below grade and we need a tracer wire with it.

Anyhow, my question is this: how deep do you bury water lines up there in Alaska? I imagine it's pretty deep.

I also saw some metal re-enforcement bars in the roof trusses, are those due to the weight of winter snowfall?


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## drtyhands (Aug 16, 2008)

Plumbus said:


> Nice work. My only question is why have you used galvanized plumber's tape to hang the waste when these
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Can't get a good enough price on a job to use those these days.I just drill the proper sized hole in the middle of a 1"X4"X6' and cut the hole in the center for the half moon to hold the pipe then hang with plumber's tape.


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## Nikolai (Dec 17, 2009)

> In your very last pic, I don't see any tracer wire coming up with the gas line. Was the gas line PE below grade?


It only runs about 60 yards and comes back up to a Propane tank. They probably didn't run a tracer because they didn't feel it was necessary. This is just a summer camp for kids in a small town. 



> Anyhow, my question is this: how deep do you bury water lines up there in Alaska?


I think it's 6' where I live. Some cities get a lot colder than others so I'm sure the depths vary.



> I also saw some metal re-enforcement bars in the roof trusses, are those due to the weight of winter snowfall?


Without talking to the engineer I don't know for certain but I would assume so. The area is known for getting lots of snow.


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

Plumbus said:


> Nice work. My only question is why have you used galvanized plumber's tape to hang the waste when these
> 
> are so much more user friendly w/plastic pipe?


That stuff is cheesy, no strength in plastic supports


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## rob the plumber (Oct 21, 2011)

Your work looks great. Frost depth in Michigan is 42". Id definitely guess deeper in Alaska. The abs is used a lot up there? We never use it. I usually see it in manufactured housing.


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## rob the plumber (Oct 21, 2011)

Michaelcookplum said:


> That stuff is cheesy, no strength in plastic supports


Definitely. I've seen a few 4" backed up sewers come crashing down. 8.33 lbs per gallon!


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## cityplumbing (Jun 12, 2010)

Nikolai, Nice work!


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Michaelcookplum said:


> That stuff is cheesy, no strength in plastic supports


 I've seen them hold up a 3 story hydrostatic test without any issues whatsoever.


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## Plumbus (Aug 4, 2008)

rob the plumber said:


> Definitely. I've seen a few 4" backed up sewers come crashing down. 8.33 lbs per gallon!


I've seen broken plastic hangers as well. But the one's I've seen give were a type no longer made. The LSP P-1602 will hold a 10' test easily if properly secured every 4' feet.


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## Mike Jessome (Aug 7, 2008)

I understand they were not priced in the quote for this job but my god clevis hangers and threaded rod man.... that strapping looks bad


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Mike Jessome said:


> I understand they were not priced in the quote for this job but my god clevis hangers and threaded rod man.... that strapping looks bad


 Overkill and labor intensive.

Neither one of the above is going to win you that job in these lean times.


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## LEAD INGOT (Jul 15, 2009)

Nikolai said:


> Here's a pic of that bathroom with the studs in, I'm still failing to understand the problem???


 I use the same copper stub ells from wirsbo. Do you ever find leaks at the tip? I had a new bag of stubs, and kept air testing, and found that 6 out of the bag leaked at the tip.


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## Nikolai (Dec 17, 2009)

This was my first time using Uponor stub outs and none of them leaked. 



> I understand they were not priced in the quote for this job but my god clevis hangers and threaded rod man.... that strapping looks bad


I would have preferred clevis hangers but it's just not in the budget like Widdershins posted.


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