# 3phase elec WH



## [email protected] (Apr 10, 2011)

I don't like messing with electric 'anything' but a customer wants to change elements on this two year old electric water heater. A fuse for the right-hand element (this one has three) keeps blowing. 

It looks like this unit was set up for 208 volts, not 240V, and the elements are 5,000W variety. I'm checking with the local supplier tomorrow for parts. Anybody got experience with these medium duty models?


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

I worked on a 3 phase 480 V heater a few weeks ago. It blew up the heating elements.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

What do you want to know?
Do you have a specific question?


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## [email protected] (Apr 10, 2011)

I suppose these units are tested similar to the residential units. The three elements kind of threw me for a loop and the gang of six fuses also was unexpected. One fuse keeps blowing every few days, according to the customer. It was very dusty and I was wishing I had bought one of the nifty thermal imagers now available for $2-3k. 

The ECO switch was in (not popped). What could be the trouble, other than bad element?


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## [email protected] (Apr 10, 2011)

Been reading http://www.bradfordwhite.com/images/shared/pdfs/manuals/47157B-E32.pdf preparing for possible diagnostics.


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## Nevada Plumber (Jan 3, 2009)

I've worked on and installed a few of those over the years. They are not complicated at all in my opinion. Just test the elements like you normally would, and replace the bad ones. If I remember correctly, Bradford White uses those faulty Apcom thermostats, so I would look at changing those also.


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## [email protected] (Apr 10, 2011)

Nevada Plumber said:


> I've worked on and installed a few of those over the years. They are not complicated at all in my opinion. Just test the elements like you normally would, and replace the bad ones. If I remember correctly, Bradford White uses those faulty Apcom thermostats, so I would look at changing those also.


I believe its all apcom. You like the Therm-O-Disc better? (I don't know the quality of either.)


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

The fuse blowing will pretty much be a bad element drawing too much current...

It may also end up being a bad connection where either the fuse holder has weak spring tension or, the wire connection is loose so the high resistance connection is making heat and cooking the fuse...

Generally a thermostat will not blow the fuse and if it was it would be fairly obvious... As in just follow the charcoal... :laughing:


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## Nevada Plumber (Jan 3, 2009)

I see many more failures on Apcom thermostats then I do with any other brand. I know some of the other guys on here have also said the same thing about Apcom thermostats.

That said, the Apcom thermostats in the Bradford White water heaters are a different design then in the State and AO Smith line of water heaters I have serviced. I can't recall replacing thermostats in a Bradford, but with a fuse constantly blowing, it is something I would change if the element checked out good.


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

Hope there is no ice cream on the premisis :whistling2:. :jester:


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

Since it Is being run on 208 volts your getting less heat then if it was run on 240.
Just make sure when you install the new element you match the phases up right black=phase 1. Blue=phase 2. Red=phase 3. unit is run on 208 delta so there aint gonna be a neutral. Make sure it ain't being run on 480 delta that will cause the elements to blow.


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## [email protected] (Apr 10, 2011)

Mississippiplum said:


> Since it Is being run on 208 volts your getting less heat then if it was run on 240.
> Just make sure when you install the new element you match the phases up right black=phase 1. Blue=phase 2. Red=phase 3. unit is run on 208 delta so there aint gonna be a neutral. Make sure it ain't being run on 480 delta that will cause the elements to blow.


Oh heck! The supply house got black elements for this job and now I read this. Ugh!

I replaced the three elements tonight. The old ones were long style about 12". The new ones are probably 9". 

After removing the elements I checked inside the tank: bottom full of scale flakes (big), anode rod pretty well shot. Nail salon owner...gotta pay for tonight before I suggest complete flush and new anode rod. 

And check out the fuse on the far left. Coulda swore the owner cleaned that last week. The last image is a product they spray on nails to reduce drying time--ingredient #1: butane LOL


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

They def. Need a new disconnect, they sprayed nail products on it that can't be safe :laughing: alot of scale in the bottom
Of the heater.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

I like how the sparky used red, yellow, and orange conductors, they should be red, black, and blue, for a 208D setup.


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## [email protected] (Apr 10, 2011)

Mississippiplum said:


> I like how the sparky used red, yellow, and orange conductors, they should be red, black, and blue, for a 208D setup.


Here's the whole box.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

Ok I see what's going on that's not the disconnect but the splice panel on the w/h and I see how the incoming conductors are coded blue, red, black. You can probly call the wh mf and get a replacement fuse block for that.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

Main thing is it is running off 208D and the conductors that the sparkies pulled are coded right, so no worries there.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

looks like a fuse cooker to me...:laughing:


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