# Pump question



## Nevada Plumber (Jan 3, 2009)

I need to replace an electric water heater in a basement that has no floor drains in it. Right now the relief valve drain is PVC, and goes up about six feet before it goes who knows where. Obviously, I can't leave it like that.

What I would like to do is install some type of pump, and then run the relief line to that. This pump would only serve the water heater.

I know very little about the different types of sump pumps. We have very, very few houses with basements here, and only a small percentage of those have fixtures in them.

Can someone point me in the right direction for a unit to accomplish what I need to do?


----------



## PlumberDave (Jan 4, 2009)

An accepted practice here is to just drop the relief to the floor and install a 125psi relief to outside where your able.


----------



## ranman (Jan 24, 2010)

here is a link for pumps.
http://www.do-it-yourself-pumps.com/zoellerpackagesystems.htm

an idea open the floor and add a emergency floor drain, run it to a small sump and pump it out to grade. 

does the drains for the house go out high or can they be located under the floor?


----------



## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

Why pump it?


----------



## SummPlumb (Feb 19, 2010)

What is wrong with it going up? The line is under pressure when it pops off. Put a drip leg on the bottom of it. Adding a pump only intensifies the situation. How do you know if the pump is working? Maybe our inspectors here are different?


----------



## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

SummPlumb said:


> What is wrong with it going up? The line is under pressure when it pops off. Put a drip leg on the bottom of it. Adding a pump only intensifies the situation. How do you know if the pump is working? Maybe our inspectors here are different?


I dont think that would be a wise choice to pipe the relief upwards. This could get blocked by corrosion as the pipe will remain full of water once the relief valve has closed. In the future this could be like not having a relief valve at all if it is stuck closed .

In Ontario, if the appliance/equipment with the relief is on the lowest floor level (basement)the relief only has to be piped 6" above the floor. All other installations on floors above need a pan that is piped to a drain line.


----------



## futz (Sep 17, 2009)

Where I live, if it's absolutely impossible to get the temp & pressure relief line to a drain or outside without going overhead (old houses) then the inspectors will accept piping down from the valve maybe 6" or 8" and then up and overhead or whatever (they obviously won't accept this on new construction - just repairs or renovations). Then we have to drill a 1/8" or so hole at the low point so the line can drain if it gets full. Keeps the valve from corroding to death. If the valve pops that small leak is far preferable to having a house full of water.


----------



## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

How about installing the water heater in a pan without a drain...direct the relief valve pipe into the pan with a "wags" valve. Stop the water heater from flooding the basement and the relief valve.


----------



## gladerunner (Jan 24, 2009)

Problem with pumps is they have thermal overloads in the motors, so the hot water can actually cause the pump to shutt down. (it thinks the motor is overheating). you would need to use something made for heat like a steam condensate pump


----------



## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

They should invent a relief valve that also shuts off the cold water supply to the tank and maybe also have it interlocked with the fuel source to shut it off. Oh and by the way if you take my idea and patent it I though of it first LMAO


----------

