# Double Trapped Perfectly



## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

A/C installer doing plumbing.


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## johntheplumber (Feb 11, 2013)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> A/C installer doing plumbing.


Sweet.


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## mightypipe (Dec 22, 2012)

At least he put a union for easy access cleaning!!!


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## Catlin987987 (Nov 12, 2010)

It is kinda done right, you need a trap on the A/C to prevent the air from escaping


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

That's not double trapped if the homemade trap is for the AC.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Yeah, but the trap is to be put at the unit with a tee in front of it and not done with hard 90's


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Trap to trap primer.. at least its unions connected..


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## KCplumber (Dec 31, 2009)

On another note, NICE GLOVES! did ya think ya might get a little on ya


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

After a few staph infections I don't take chances.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

The other bad part is using a California style trap. Just use a D/W drain tee with radiator hose connecting the A/C drain. Then you can use a tubular trap and running a cable is much easier. Or, do the best thing and run the drain to the outside like a T&P and run it to a french drain. That's how I would do it. Then you don't have to worry about algae clogging your lav drains.


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## mpot (Oct 2, 2012)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> The other bad part is using a California style trap. Just use a D/W drain tee with radiator hose connecting the A/C drain. Then you can use a tubular trap and running a cable is much easier. Or, do the best thing and run the drain to the outside like a T&P and run it to a french drain. That's how I would do it. Then you don't have to worry about algae clogging your lav drains.


T & P outside? Not around here!!! Never.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> The other bad part is using a California style trap. *Just use a D/W drain tee with radiator hose* connecting the A/C drain. Then you can use a tubular trap and running a cable is much easier. Or, do the best thing and run the drain to the outside like a T&P and run it to a french drain. That's how I would do it. Then you don't have to worry about algae clogging your lav drains.


 






If you did that, maybe an A/C guy would come behind you, snap a picture, post it on A/C Zone, and they would all be laughing at the hack job......:laughing:

And with regard to 'hard 90's', all the central A/C units in FL ( and we have ALOT of air conditioners) use the PVC 3/4" 90's for condensate drain lines. When they build up with algae, a shop vac clears the line in seconds. Nobody snakes a 3/4" drain, at least I don't. I have even used compressed air to blow out a plugged 3/4" line if I didn't happen to have a shop vac handy. But basically a shop vac will clear the agae quickly.


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## victoryplbaz (May 19, 2012)

Atleast the ac guy ran it to a drain and not just to the vent. Oh if a customer says their house smells of sewer after the ac guy left...Check the condensate and make sure its not in the main vent...Makes it interesting when doing a smoke test!!


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Tommy plumber said:


> If you did that, maybe an A/C guy would come behind you, snap a picture, post it on A/C Zone, and they would all be laughing at the hack job......:laughing:
> 
> And with regard to 'hard 90's', all the central A/C units in FL ( and we have ALOT of air conditioners) use the PVC 3/4" 90's for condensate drain lines. When they build up with algae, a shop vac clears the line in seconds. Nobody snakes a 3/4" drain, at least I don't. I have even used compressed air to blow out a plugged 3/4" line if I didn't happen to have a shop vac handy. But basically a shop vac will clear the agae quickly.


I doubt he would being that is the preferred & approved method, with the a/c drain running to the outside or the other way with pvc stubbed out under the lav with heater hose run to a D/W drain tee. Yes, no one would or could cable out an a/c drain. They always use compressed air or a shop vac. But again, the right way is to put a pre-made ¾" trap at the unit but hard 90s at the unit would work.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

mpot said:


> T & P outside? Not around here!!! Never.


That is what the UPC & IRC require and Houston requires. Montana required it too. But many went to a floor drain with air gap which is also an approved termination. Where are you located and what do they require?


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## johntheplumber (Feb 11, 2013)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> A/C installer doing plumbing.












Just found this one.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

johntheplumber said:


> Just found this one.


Haha. At least since they tied it in after the trap they trapped the ¾ so sewer gas won't go into it. It would be so much easier to just go to the outside with a french drain.


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## johntheplumber (Feb 11, 2013)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> Haha. At least since they tied it in after the trap they trapped the ¾ so sewer gas won't go into it. It would be so much easier to just go to the outside with a french drain.


But they left this little gem in the same bathroom.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Wow, yeah, finding a ¾ plug ain't easy.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

That is why I love repair, because a lot of new construction guys suck at what they do, at least in Houston, and because a lot of handy men are out there "fixing" things. We will always have steady work. We see it all in repair. I just wish I still had many of the pics from over the years taken with different phones.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

mpot said:


> T & P outside? Not around here!!! Never.



under IPC it is perfectly fine to run t&p and pan drain to the outdoors.


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## UN1TED-WE-PLUMB (Oct 3, 2012)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> A/C installer doing plumbing.




At least the bushing is fully glued in the San tee..


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

I guess it is more that a lot of new construction plumbers don't take pride in their work and the foreman doesn't care and the home builder only cares if the inspector catches a problem. Though, most codes only require the minimum standards which we all know aren't that high so it is a multi faceted issue.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

UN1TED-WE-PLUMB said:


> At least the bushing is fully glued in the San tee..


Haha. I guess there is that, huh?


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

:lol::blink:


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## mightypipe (Dec 22, 2012)

johntheplumber said:


> But they left this little gem in the same bathroom.


That's the front door of the roach motel... Shhh, they're probably sleeping in the day time...


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## johntheplumber (Feb 11, 2013)

mightypipe said:


> That's the front door of the roach motel... Shhh, they're probably sleeping in the day time...


It's funny you say that. There are a few dead ones nearby.


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## mightypipe (Dec 22, 2012)

johntheplumber said:


> It's funny you say that. There are a few dead ones nearby.


Out here, the roaches attract bark scorpions and before you know it, you have a mini Eco system brewing in your walls.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Jesus, that's one hell of a domino effect.


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## mpot (Oct 2, 2012)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> That is what the UPC & IRC require and Houston requires. Montana required it too. But many went to a floor drain with air gap which is also an approved termination. Where are you located and what do they require?


I'm in Baltimore. 
It's never been a practice of mine because of my fear of freezing. Basically like sticking a 3/4 plug in the T&p. most go to the sump pit directly hopefully the pump works.


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## 504Plumber (Jan 26, 2011)

mpot said:


> I'm in Baltimore.
> It's never been a practice of mine because of my fear of freezing. Basically like sticking a 3/4 plug in the T&p. most go to the sump pit directly hopefully the pump works.


It gets that cold in Baltimore that it would freeze shut an empty copper line? If the t&p blew open it would freeze water running out at 40lbs? 

Is that Baltimore located just south of Antarctica?


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Nvm


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## mpot (Oct 2, 2012)

504Plumber said:


> It gets that cold in Baltimore that it would freeze shut an empty copper line? If the t&p blew open it would freeze water running out at 40lbs?
> 
> Is that Baltimore located just south of Antarctica?


It gets below freezing in Baltimore, of course...? 
If you feel like the only time a t&p blows is full open, then you haven't been around long. 
Plenty of times they hade been seeping water out. 
Believe it or not, below 32 degrees and slowly running water will freeze and close up a relief discharge or any other source of water. 
Just because your code book says its okay in your tropical paradise doesn't mean it's the best or will work everywhere.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Haha. Yeah in Montana they preferred an indirect drain.


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## pEVANB (Dec 13, 2011)

LOL- The gloved thumbs up make the photo even more impressive.


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## dclarke (Dec 22, 2012)

pEVANB said:


> LOL- The gloved thumbs up make the photo even more impressive.


You really wanna go post an intro in the intro section before everyone else sees this. Tell us a little bit about you, what you do, where your from.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

pEVANB said:


> LOL- The gloved thumbs up make the photo even more impressive.


And who are you for saying that without the proper full intro??


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## Plumbersteve (Jan 25, 2011)

pEVANB said:


> LOL- The gloved thumbs up make the photo even more impressive.


Yeah man...how DARE you try to talk to us without an intro? FOR SHAME!!


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