# How to connect sch 40 PVC to a basketstrainer???



## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

OK so around here all kitchen and lav p-traps are tubular bag traps. I only see sch 40 all the way on commercial sinks. Now I have not seen too many of them and last time I tried to connect to a basketstrainer using a female adaptor but it did not want to go on the strainer so ended up using a tiny piece of tubular flanged tailpiece and then over to sch40 using a trap adaptor. I have see female adaptor on basketstrainer before? I remember a post mentioning canplast sch40 fittings with build in nut for basketstrainer but my supply houses do not stock such fittings. Is there a way for me to keep it all in sch40 without those special fittings ??? Or do I have to go with the tiny piece of tubular tailpiece again?

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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

I can check my supply houses, see how much a case costs and if it's a decent price and what you want I can ship them out to you.


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## indyjim (Apr 29, 2017)

Why not tubular? Just curious. 


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

OpenSights said:


> I can check my supply houses, see how much a case costs and if it's a decent price and what you want I can ship them out to you.


Thanks for the offer but we don't do enough of them that my boss would buy a case. My master would not switch over to all sch40 in the future. He uses cheap bagtraps like every one else around here. I was just hoping to get rid of that trap adaptor and few inches of tubular the few times I do a small commercial remodel.

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## Eddy k (Jan 30, 2015)

I found flanged tailpeices with nut on it molded to a peice of schedule 40 at a trailer supply couple years ago. Should of stocked up on them.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

If it's an upcoming job, let me know. We use tubular too most of the time, but three times in the past two years I've used them, so I can seeing of buying a case. Sometimes they can save your butt at the air gap.


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

OpenSights said:


> If it's an upcoming job, let me know. We use tubular too most of the time, but three times in the past two years I've used them, so I can seeing of buying a case. Sometimes they can save your butt at the air gap.


I'm roughing it in right now and was just wondering if there was something I had missed. I thought a normal female fitting would go on the strainer and have seen that before on service call. Last time working on a new Starbucks in town I could not make a female adapter go on the strainer. I personally like the idea of more ridgid dwv pipe and fitting instead of tubular. Knowing my master, he would not go through the trouble and few extra dollars to switch from tubular. The customer mentioned that he did not like tubular and I was personally interested in other better ways of doing such a thing. Airgap? Are you referring to if there is a floor sink?

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## Mr_David (Jun 21, 2017)

Look for a

Swivel Tray Plug Adapted with 1 1/2-Inch Female Pipe

This one I found with google is ABS


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## 89plumbum (May 14, 2011)

Carefully heat up your female adapt until its pliable, then hand tighten it on. just don't over tighten it or it may crack once it cures. Learned that from justme.


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

89plumbum said:


> Carefully heat up your female adapt until its pliable, then hand tighten it on. just don't over tighten it or it may crack once it cures. Learned that from justme.


I may just try that.

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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

89plumbum said:


> Carefully heat up your female adapt until its pliable, then hand tighten it on. just don't over tighten it or it may crack once it cures. Learned that from justme.


Like that but way to much trouble,tubular for me then 40


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

89plumbum said:


> Carefully heat up your female adapt until its pliable, then hand tighten it on. just don't over tighten it or it may crack once it cures. Learned that from justme.


 THE THREADS WE

*Depends on how the strainer was made. EG: cut threads or rolled threads [usually found on cheaper strainers] ... Use a heat gun to soften the PVC, then hand tighten on the strainer -- when I did this I always used a hose clamp on the adapter in case it cracked. At least there was no flood. Also when a female adapter had to be used on a brass tub drain that always got a hose clamp also.*


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

Thanks for the heat gun advise. It worked well. This is how it ended up.


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

Looks good.

Wondering why you didn't use a 2" mechanical trap for easy removal and cleaning?


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

GAN said:


> Looks good.
> 
> Wondering why you didn't use a 2" mechanical trap for easy removal and cleaning?


I used a proflex coupling behind the p-trap and made supply lines longer so the whole 4 compartment sink could be pulled out just a bit and boom easy access for cleaning. I also figured a small snake through the 11/2" clean out on eighter side would go through the 2" trap and then there is a full 2" clean out in the wall under the cover.

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## Gargalaxy (Aug 14, 2013)

Looks good. In Florida 3 comp-sinks shall be draining indirectly tho.


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

Normally 3 or 4 compartment sinks would need 1 compartment to drain indirectly in to a floor sink. Inspector told me it was OK to forget about the floor sink because of the kind of use that the 4 compartment sink would see. My boss just told me that the inspector still was talking about my drains on that sink and praising me. I just like that I found a way to get a female Adapter on to the basket strainer. Thanks to the help of all the good guys I see on here.

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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Looks really professionally done.....:thumbsup:

But like Gargalaxy {Alex} said, if it is for food prep, it has to drain indirectly.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

We just had a battle with our inspectors here. Coffee shop, three compartment, serve pastries, but do not bake on sight. FOG has become a huge cash flow out here. Inspector required grease interceptor along with the rinse. Indirect for sanitize. Sticker signed and planted. Health Department dissapproved wanting rinse and sanitize to be combined before the air gap. Plumbing code says separate indirect wastes for rinse and sanitize, direct for wash.

Code is how "you interpret it". When the addendum to the Bible is bigger than the Bible and a journeyman's test is 125 multiple choice questions, open book and three hours.... I question every bit of this racket, especially here in the Lansing area! The inspectors are not guilty, it's the money hungry politicians! 

I really don't care anymore about becoming a Master much anymore. I see good money in it, my Master says I have the potential to become a top notch Master... but at what cost with headaches? Is it worth it? Drain cleaning is a wired sick passion passion of mine, pays the bills, far more than working for my Master, he's a great source of clients! Great teacher, mentor and friend! But is the hassle of getting a licensed worth the trouble to do work you can easily accomplish within code just to rework against what one inspector required and rework it against code? Lansing has become too corrupt for me to do anything but drain cleaning.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Btw, out here if you're inspector thinks you modified a fitting, including warming it up to provide a seal.... get ready! Every city worker will keep an eye out for your truck! We busted a customer doing an illegal remod, two weeks later we were "busted" twice, even by our own inspector on a heater! He called, "well if you're right outside get down here and tag this thing! Permit was pulled two weeks ago!" Sad thing is that inspector was fired by my Master years ago for stealing.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Tommy plumber said:


> Looks really professionally done.....:thumbsup:
> 
> But like Gargalaxy {Alex} said, if it is for food prep, it has to drain indirectly.














Unless it is not for food prep. I've seen those in florist shops too.


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

Tommy plumber said:


> Looks really professionally done.....
> 
> But like Gargalaxy {Alex} said, if it is for food prep, it has to drain indirectly.


There is not really any food prep. The place serves healthy stuff like tea and protein shakes. They don't use the sinks to prep food. The compartments were tiny with the small barsink sized strainers. All 4 strainers is within 36" so legal to tie them all together. Inspector had recently inspected another of their shops and said the floor sink was not needed and that I could just tie them all together, so I did.

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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Amazing how things are so different in other places.


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## 89plumbum (May 14, 2011)

sparky said:


> Like that but way to much trouble,tubular for me then 40


There's always gotta be one pooper in the party:tt2:


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## Eddy k (Jan 30, 2015)

Saw the post this morning and had time to kill so I did try heating one up and was pleased to see how well it worked, direct connect another story.


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## Eddy k (Jan 30, 2015)

Does not take much effort and beats slip joints falling apart from mops and other crap like that.


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

OpenSights said:


> Amazing how things are so different in other places.


In Illinois (maybe less the country of Chicago) an indirect can be accomplished, with a direct connection to individual traps or common trap as long as under floor there is a floor drain tied to that branch before it connects to any other part of the system. It will rise out of the floor drain before backing up into the sink.

Mostly used on a three bowl before the grease trap/interceptor. Glass wash for the most of what I see still in-directs into a floor sink.,


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

GAN said:


> In Illinois (maybe less the country of Chicago) an indirect can be accomplished, with a direct connection to individual traps or common trap as long as under floor there is a floor drain tied to that branch before it connects to any other part of the system. It will rise out of the floor drain before backing up into the sink.
> 
> Mostly used on a three bowl before the grease trap/interceptor. Glass wash for the most of what I see still in-directs into a floor sink.,


See that's the difference! What you are talking about is common sense. Common sense is an uncommon virtue. The way our inspectors interpret the Bible and the addendum book leave common sense out because, and this is a direct quote from the senior plumbing inspector in Lansing... "What is in this book is the law, and we are legally bound to enforce it to the letter!"


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

GAN said:


> In Illinois (maybe less the country of Chicago) an indirect can be accomplished, with a direct connection to individual traps or common trap as long as under floor there is a floor drain tied to that branch before it connects to any other part of the system. It will rise out of the floor drain before backing up into the sink.
> 
> Mostly used on a three bowl before the grease trap/interceptor. Glass wash for the most of what I see still in-directs into a floor sink.,


On second thought, a floor drain requires either a trap primer or trap seal (finally legal here). I've seen trap seals not accept water, but unsure about allowing backup.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

Eddy k said:


> Does not take much effort and beats slip joints falling apart from mops and other crap like that.


What you heat it up with??? Did it screw on or just force it in place???i gonna have to try this also


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## Eddy k (Jan 30, 2015)

Electric heat gun, took about 1 minute


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## Eddy k (Jan 30, 2015)

Screwed right on kept spinning on and off until cool to make sure threads would stay same as strainer.


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## Eddy k (Jan 30, 2015)

89plumbum said:


> Carefully heat up your female adapt until its pliable, then hand tighten it on. just don't over tighten it or it may crack once it cures. Learned that from justme.


I like it, good trick


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

OpenSights said:


> On second thought, a floor drain requires either a trap primer or trap seal (finally legal here). I've seen trap seals not accept water, but unsure about allowing backup.



Would have to be a deep seal trap or have a trap primer.

By backing up, I just mean if any part of the system should try to back up, it would come out of the floor drain (on that branch) before backing up and contacting the bowls.


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## Bayside500 (May 16, 2009)

GAN said:


> Would have to be a deep seal trap or have a trap primer.
> 
> By backing up, I just mean if any part of the system should try to back up, it would come out of the floor drain (on that branch) before backing up and contacting the bowls.


but what about roaches/insects climbing up the drain pipe ?


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Bayside500 said:


> but what about roaches/insects climbing up the drain pipe ?


One of my first jobs downtown Lansing was about a main, unbolted the cover of an old brass check valve... putting it back the rubber gasket popped off. Flipped it over to press back it back in place, found a dozen roaches! Screamed like a little girl! 

I won't eat food prepared in downtown Lansing. What we do is as much of a curse as a reward! There are so many restaurants where the food looks and smells so good... but then you see the kitchen/ basement and change your mind.


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

OpenSights said:


> I won't eat food prepared in downtown Lansing. What we do is as much of a curse as a reward! There are so many restaurants where the food looks and smells so good... but then you see the kitchen/ basement and change your mind.


I got called out to a no hot water call at a Filipino restaurant, he said it hasn't been working for a couple weeks but he had a health inspection in a couple days. He said they primarily use cold water to wash dishes because that's all they had in the Philipenes. The next day while I was swapping out the heater he says would you like a plate of food? Me- "yes please". Damn good food.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

GAN said:


> Would have to be a deep seal trap or have a trap primer.
> 
> By backing up, I just mean if any part of the system should try to back up, it would come out of the floor drain (on that branch) before backing up and contacting the bowls.














I disagree. It will not back up from the floor drain{s} if the floor drain{s} themselves are plugged up. Especially in food prep establishments.

In my humble opinion, I take issue with that part of your code. I've seen broken bits of glass, tons of drinking straws, food debris, and even dinner napkins {cloth} stuffed down floor drains.

In fact, one call that I had years ago was sewer gas in a restaurant in Jupiter, FL. The sewer gas was so bad, that in one part of the restaurant customers would get up and walkout without even waiting for their food to be served. I mean it was obnoxious. So we went in and did a smoke test. We traced the problem to a W/C in the men's room that was rocking with a blown wax seal and no grout. But while investigating the problem, we found that some yahoo had sprayed expanding foam down the floor drains in that particular restaurant in an attempt to keep the sewer gas from filling the dining room.

So given the amount of debris that winds up down restaurant floor drains, and given the fact that some people will actually seal the floor drains in an attempt to stop sewer gas from entering the building, is reason enough to not permit food prep drains to be connected directly to the DWV system.


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

Bayside500 said:


> but what about roaches/insects climbing up the drain pipe ?


Good point, Our plumbing code does not address this. Heck they could climb the legs of the sink for that matter.


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

Tommy plumber said:


> I disagree. It will not back up from the floor drain{s} if the floor drain{s} themselves are plugged up. Especially in food prep establishments.
> 
> In my humble opinion, I take issue with that part of your code. I've seen broken bits of glass, tons of drinking straws, food debris, and even dinner napkins {cloth} stuffed down floor drains.
> 
> ...


Expanding foam down a FD, that's a new one on me. I agree if that one floor drain backed up (since it is the only thing between the grease trap and the bowls it could happen. No doubt the air gap is better. I'm just stating what our code would allow.

The devils advocate on this would be a "grease trap" is trapped, although vented, I have been in a couple of locations, one the odors still come back up from the GT through the arm leading back up to the air gap, unless you "double trap" the line and vent it accordingly to keep it from getting air bond. 

I have also seen the fixed air gaps back & flood the floor with soap or waste grey water when the bowls are released, especially with the 2" strainers and lever drain.

All points have a downside.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

I've seen restaurant floor drains plugged with debris, but never intentionally sealed. A restaurant is required to maintain their equipment. As long as the health department is doing their job all should be fine.

I understand the need for indirect waste, but when nobody can agree on what needs to go where there's a problem. In my particular case with the coffee shop, plumbing inspector #1 wanted drainage and watts 9d one way, then health department wants something completely different, then plumbing inspector #2 wants it yet a different way.

The biggest complaint I have about this coffee shop debacle isn't so much the dwv issue, it's that the way the health department and inspector #2 reads the plumbing code, all water heaters require back flow protection. 

Things out here are getting crazy. FOG has become such an issue, there is serious talk of requiring grease traps in residential. I'm not 100% against this. I have some apartment buildings that are stacked and could really benefit from an interceptor. Problem is... who wants to rent the first floor unit with a stinky grease trap that needs maintenance?


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

GAN said:


> Expanding foam down a FD, that's a new one on me. I agree if that one floor drain backed up (since it is the only thing between the grease trap and the bowls it could happen. No doubt the air gap is better. I'm just stating what our code would allow.
> 
> The devils advocate on this would be a "grease trap" is trapped, although vented, I have been in a couple of locations, one the odors still come back up from the GT through the arm leading back up to the air gap, unless you "double trap" the line and vent it accordingly to keep it from getting air bond.
> 
> ...


If you have a floor drain that keeps losing its seal just fill it with Wesson corn oil or any corn oil,will not evaporate and will run out when water is poured down drain,works goooooooooooood


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

OpenSights said:


> I've seen restaurant floor drains plugged with debris, but never intentionally sealed. A restaurant is required to maintain their equipment. As long as the health department is doing their job all should be fine.
> 
> I understand the need for indirect waste, but when nobody can agree on what needs to go where there's a problem. In my particular case with the coffee shop, plumbing inspector #1 wanted drainage and watts 9d one way, then health department wants something completely different, then plumbing inspector #2 wants it yet a different way.
> 
> ...


How would they pump it out every month???


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

sparky said:


> How would they pump it out every month???


Technically what is required here is a pumper truck, then they have to drive over an hour away to dump it. Some restaurants have a special dumpster for grease and a shop vac works.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

OpenSights said:


> Technically what is required here is a pumper truck, then they have to drive over an hour away to dump it. Some restaurants have a special dumpster for grease and a shop vac works.


Wouldn't that dumpster be just for the used cooking oil and not grease trap grease???i know that is some nasty ****zu when pumping grease with a shopvac I won't do it anymore


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

sparky said:


> If you have a floor drain that keeps losing its seal just fill it with Wesson corn oil or any corn oil,will not evaporate and will run out when water is poured down drain,works goooooooooooood


Yep been doing that for 25 some years. On a FD as long as it is not crown vented unless specked out I see the trap ell not used and a nipple with a regular 90% creating the deep seal trap. In mech rooms without condensing furnaces and public restrooms for dang sure trap evaporation happens.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

sparky said:


> Wouldn't that dumpster be just for the used cooking oil and not grease trap grease???i know that is some nasty ****zu when pumping grease with a shopvac I won't do it anymore


That I'm not sure of. I haven't done one in years, thankfully. Never heard anyone saying you can't, I guess it would depend the dumpster company. 

On a side note, right around Christmas time we put in a bad azz lift station in a pizza shop. The grease trap was leaking from just about anywhere it could possibly leak from. Of course once the inspector saw it he put a call into the health department who made them "fix" it. Probably a month ago we got a call from our the building owner that the basement was flooded. Got there and turned the pumps on hand. Pumped great. Handed it off to the election, thinking it had to be the floats. Election called the next day to say the floats were perfectly fine other then being completely covered in grease and hung up in the pit. I don't remember why, but our inspector became involved again and threatened to red tag them if they didn't replace it. Haven't heard anything since. It was one of those subbed subbed jobs. We were working for our excavator who was working for the building owner and the restaurant uses Rotor Rooter.... trust me, I don't want this pizza place as a customer. According to the manager he personally shopvacs it out once a month. No dumpster.... no clue where he dumps it, but it kinda sorta looks like someone has dumped something greasy in an old stool flange about five foot away.:whistling2::laughing:


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

WTF

If I catch anyone in my jurisdiction circumventing a grease trap/interceptor. One warning, after that if we have issues we will televise the main and see what lateral the grease is coming from, then charge then to clean it out. With three municipal employees working on it, you can imagine how costly it could get.

That municipality could require invoices showing a licensed special waste hauler pumped it out.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

GAN said:


> WTF
> 
> If I catch anyone in my jurisdiction circumventing a grease trap/interceptor. One warning, after that if we have issues we will televise the main and see what lateral the grease is coming from, then charge then to clean it out. With three municipal employees working on it, you can imagine how costly it could get.
> 
> That municipality could require invoices showing a licensed special waste hauler pumped it out.


Agree 100%. You'd have a ball out here with FOG. Had one Mexican restaurant with a 6" main outside clean out once. In order to not plug off my jetter nozzle I had to take my lead ladle to scoop out the grease. Had a nice one foot tall by two foot round pile. Called the city in, on a Saturday to clean their line. They were none to happy and I'm sure the bill reflected it. It was so bad the city guys were still working on there line when I finished after six hours of jetting. Of course all I had was General's weak cart jetter, that thing is like a hot dog in a hallway!


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

I believe you will find in most areas that grease & cooking oils are considered hazardous waste and require a licensed hauler. None of which should be placed in a dumpster.

What little may be contained on packaging, etc. is fine.


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## Bendite (Jan 5, 2016)

Take the strainer threads and run it by hand thru pipe dies or hand thread dies. It will cut the first few threads and allow the plastic to thread on. Use tape and dope. Did this with success on SS strainers connecting acid waste traps in a lab no leaks and little pressure on the connection and no tubular as acid waste does not do tubular.


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