# Tankless Install I did over the weekend



## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

Ok here you all go. My first job site picture. I wish I was smart enough to have taken a before pic.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

Good looking work, i like the vacuum breaker


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## Plumbworker (Oct 23, 2008)

nice work ron!! is that a air vent i see?


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## ESPinc (Jul 18, 2009)

Nice work Ron:thumbsup:


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

Plumbworker said:


> nice work ron!! is that a air vent i see?


A vacuum breaker. Some inspectors require it. In this case since it is a first floor install, and the tank is hanging higher than the sinks, it needed one then.

Thanks for the complements.


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## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

Nice looking job, clean and neat. Not sure if that electrical outlet is in the best spot.


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## Plumbworker (Oct 23, 2008)

SewerRatz said:


> A vacuum breaker. Some inspectors require it. In this case since it is a first floor install, and the tank is hanging higher than the sinks, it needed one then.
> 
> Thanks for the complements.


ahh i see.. why are you calling a tankless a tank?:laughing: just messin wit ya i dont understand the expansion tank on the tankless either? it probaly required where you are though... bell hangers are slick looking huh..


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

pauliplumber said:


> Nice looking job, clean and neat. Not sure if that electrical outlet is in the best spot.


 The outlet was there before the heater install but an easy to move item. They are getting an electrician in to move it per my request and to change it to a GFI.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

Very clean man. What did you use in the uni-strut to secure the unit? New item i have not seen before, how bought it?


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

I got mine outdoor rinnai installed today but forgot my damn camera......I will be going back to properly locate the controller......i also sold another install today!!!!!
Nice work mr. Ratz!


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

TheMaster said:


> I got mine outdoor rinnai installed today but forgot my damn camera......I will be going back to properly locate the controller......i also sold another install today!!!!!
> Nice work mr. Ratz!



Please do, i wanna see that custom Top fed unit. Only In Bama!:laughing:


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

Excellent looking work Ron. I would expect no less....:thumbsup:


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Those isoator valves are made for people with tiny hands. I personally wish i had built mine from scratch...It might not have looked as prettty but it would be easier to service. Not that you did anything wrong Mr. Ratz.....I used a set myself today and i dont really like them....they are easy but for sure not better.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> Very clean man. What did you use in the uni-strut to secure the unit? New item i have not seen before, how bought it?


 I used the 3/8 spring loaded nut that locks into the strut. Then used 3/8 x 1" bolts to secure the heater.


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## futz (Sep 17, 2009)

SewerRatz said:


> Ok here you all go. My first job site picture. I wish I was smart enough to have taken a before pic.


Looks good. Nice and neat and square.  I kinda like the Unistrut, but I tend towards plywood most times, seeing as the heaters are zero clearance anyway.


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

TheMaster said:


> I got mine outdoor rinnai installed today but forgot my damn camera......I will be going back to properly locate the controller......i also sold another install today!!!!!
> Nice work mr. Ratz!


Uh oh! He's got the tankless fever now! Maybe I'm wrong but didn't you say they sucked a few weeks ago?


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

futz said:


> Looks good. Nice and neat and square.  I kinda like the Unistrut, but I tend towards plywood most times, seeing as the heaters are zero clearance anyway.


 The reason I used the unistrut is this install was in a kitchen. I did not want to put up a piece of wood that could collect grease, and dirt and possibly rot. So I went with the strut which makes cleaning the around the heater nice and easy.


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

SewerRatz said:


> Ok here you all go. My first job site picture. I wish I was smart enough to have taken a before pic.


How long did it take you?


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

SewerRatz said:


> The reason I used the unistrut is this install was in a kitchen. I did not want to put up a piece of wood that could collect grease, and dirt and possibly rot. So I went with the strut which makes cleaning the around the heater nice and easy.


Yikes! In the kitchen? I don't install Rinnai so please tell me that that is a DV unit?


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## futz (Sep 17, 2009)

SewerRatz said:


> The reason I used the unistrut is this install was in a kitchen. I did not want to put up a piece of wood that could collect grease, and dirt and possibly rot. So I went with the strut which makes cleaning the around the heater nice and easy.


Ah, understood. Unistrut would be much cleaner for that situation for sure.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

TheMaster said:


> Those isoator valves are made for people with tiny hands. I personally wish i had built mine from scratch...It might not have looked as prettty but it would be easier to service. Not that you did anything wrong Mr. Ratz.....I used a set myself today and i dont really like them....they are easy but for sure not better.


 
I was debating using the ones I used or using the set that Sioux Chief makes. http://www.siouxchief.com/Supply/Kits/Water-Heater-Connector-Kits/SNW88.SNW88

Only thing I wish is they make a set of isolator valves that takes a T&P instead of a pressure relief valve. Just would save me a brass nipple and a brass coupling.... Also if they had a cold side valve with an IPS open port so we can easily plumb in the expansion tank and vacuum relief valve. I ended up putting a brass tee on the heater first then a short nipple for the isolator valve to attach to.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

smellslike$tome said:


> How long did it take you?


Start to finish was 6 hours. Hardest part was lifting the heater and starting the bolt to hold the unit up by myself.



smellslike$tome said:


> Yikes! In the kitchen? I don't install Rinnai so please tell me that that is a DV unit?


The Rinnai is a DV 5" PVC outer vent with a 3" inner steel vent.


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## futz (Sep 17, 2009)

SewerRatz said:


> The Rinnai is a DV 5" PVC outer vent with a 3" inner steel vent.


The inner vent is aluminum on the stuff I get. Different brand vent? I think I use Ubbink or something similar to that name.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

futz said:


> The inner vent is aluminum on the stuff I get. Different brand vent? I think I use Ubbink or something similar to that name.


 Your right I miss typed. It is aluminum on the inside.


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## Regulator (Aug 20, 2009)

GREENPLUM said:


> Good looking work, i like the vacuum breaker


Ahhem... Vacuum arestor. Sorry, couldn't resist.


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## Regulator (Aug 20, 2009)

Nice, neat job, SewerRatz. Well done.


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## futz (Sep 17, 2009)

Regulator said:


> Nice, neat job, Futz. Well done.


??? :blink: I think you meant to type "SewerRatz" there.


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## Regulator (Aug 20, 2009)

futz said:


> ??? :blink: I think you meant to type "SewerRatz" there.


Corrected my post, thanks Futz.


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## Plumber Jim (Jun 19, 2008)

Nice Job Ron. DO they require expansion tanks on tankless heaters over by you?


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## user2091 (Sep 27, 2009)

nice clean install. good time. times money.


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## Pipedoc (Jun 14, 2009)

Plumber Jim said:


> Nice Job Ron. DO they require expansion tanks on tankless heaters over by you?


 Good question. I don't have any experience with tankless. (haven't sold one yet) but my interpretation of the Illinois code would be yes. It doesn't exclude tankless.



> 7) Closed water systems shall have a properly sized thermal expansion tank located in the cold water supply as near to the water heater as possible and with no shut-off valve or other device between the heater and the expansion tank. Exception: In existing buildings with a closed water system, a properly sized pressure relief valve may be substituted in place of a thermal expansion tank. For closed water systems created by backflow protection in manufactured housing, as required in Section 890.1140(i), a ballcock with a relief valve may be substituted for the thermal expansion tank


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## plumbwright (Oct 26, 2009)

nice work. very neat. ive never put a vacuum breaker on a tankless before. I "flag poled" a vacuum breaker like that on a water heater once where the cold water entered at the bottom and it got rejected. had to bring the cold water line above the height of the tank with the breaker on it then back down to the bottom.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

Plumber Jim said:


> Nice Job Ron. DO they require expansion tanks on tankless heaters over by you?


Pipedoc hit the nail on the head, the way our code reads one is required on a closed system.


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

What is the total gas load on the house and how long is that 3/4" branch serving the unit?


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

Love the bell hangers! I use those too.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

smellslike$tome said:


> What is the total gas load on the house and how long is that 3/4" branch serving the unit?


 This is a kitchen as in a grocery store. They have more than enough gas, the 3/4? line is 15' long coming off a 2" line.


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

SewerRatz said:


> This is a kitchen as in a grocery store. They have more than enough gas, the 3/4? line is 15' long coming off a 2" line.


Now I better understand the vac brkr! Nice work! What is the exterior wall composed of? 6 hrs is fast, especially for copper and iron, at least for me. I wrapped one up yesterday that took about 11 hours. I had to run about 60' of gas pipe through a drop ceiling though. What was the old wh and had it been at that same location?


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

smellslike$tome said:


> Now I better understand the vac brkr! Nice work! What is the exterior wall composed of? 6 hrs is fast, especially for copper and iron, at least for me. I wrapped one up yesterday that took about 11 hours. I had to run about 60' of gas pipe through a drop ceiling though. What was the old wh and had it been at that same location?


 Outside wall is concrete block, I used my 6" coring bit to get through the wall.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

SewerRatz said:


> I was debating using the ones I used or using the set that Sioux Chief makes. http://www.siouxchief.com/Supply/Kits/Water-Heater-Connector-Kits/SNW88.SNW88
> 
> Only thing I wish is they make a set of isolator valves that takes a T&P instead of a pressure relief valve. Just would save me a brass nipple and a brass coupling.... Also if they had a cold side valve with an IPS open port so we can easily plumb in the expansion tank and vacuum relief valve. I ended up putting a brass tee on the heater first then a short nipple for the isolator valve to attach to.



That is the brand i was meaning to warn TM of, I dont know where I got Cherroke brass from. Those install kits are not very good IMO. I have 2 so far that were defective. They use a soft copper and it is real easy to bend. This is not good. The seal in the top nut to attatch to rinnai, which is also the union, is nothing more than a water heater flex washer. And we all know how long those last.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

TheMaster said:


> Those isoator valves are made for people with tiny hands. I personally wish i had built mine from scratch...It might not have looked as prettty but it would be easier to service. Not that you did anything wrong Mr. Ratz.....I used a set myself today and i dont really like them....they are easy but for sure not better.










:laughing:


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> That is the brand i was meaning to warn TM of, I dont know where I got Cherroke brass from. Those install kits are not very good IMO. I have 2 so far that were defective. They use a soft copper and it is real easy to bend. This is not good. The seal in the top nut to attatch to rinnai, which is also the union, is nothing more than a water heater flex washer. And we all know how long those last.


 Thanks for the heads up, I guess I can make my own its not that hard to do, and would save a few bucks.


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## futz (Sep 17, 2009)

smellslike$tome said:


> Love the bell hangers! I use those too.


Ok, since we're all nitpicking...  Why use those instead of just using unistrut pipe hangers. Since the unistrut is there anyway...


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

futz said:


> Ok, since we're all nitpicking...  Why use those instead of just using unistrut pipe hangers. Since the unistrut is there anyway...


 To much unistrut is unsightly, the bell hangers give a much cleaner look.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

Regulator said:


> Ahhem... Vacuum arestor. Sorry, couldn't resist.[/quote]
> 
> Water Service Vacuum Relief Valve is the tech name. That looks like a 3/4 Watts N36 in the pict.


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## Regulator (Aug 20, 2009)

GREENPLUM said:


> Regulator said:
> 
> 
> > Ahhem... Vacuum arestor. Sorry, couldn't resist.[/quote]
> ...


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## 1703 (Jul 21, 2009)

Nice looking install, SewerRatz.


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

Not too shabby.


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## para1 (Jun 17, 2008)

Nice attention to detail.:thumbsup:


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## para1 (Jun 17, 2008)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> :laughing:


:laughing::blink::laughing:.............*F M R!!!!!!:laughing:*


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