# Do you trust repairing Drain Cables?



## DUNBAR PLUMBING

I'm finding out after spending boo koo bucks on cables that I have even another cable that is shot at the connection, and since I have a full size welding shop thanks to my other businesses, it's a matter of attempting to repair the cable that's shot at the end. 

I haven't even been to Spartan's website to see if they have them, but I'm assuming they do. 


I just tore down two drums tonight, took the power feed off and found a seized wheel on one side of the equation. Tore it down, cleaned it, got it turning again and repacked it with grease and works fine.


Bent up my 100 cable like a whip at the end, it's certainly a stiff cable but I'd expect that at $225.00. 3/8" by 75'. 


Even though my machine was heavily dirty, my powerfeed handle has become extremely sloppy over the years, move back and forth along with forward and backward in front of the machine. Still works, can't see a replacement for years to come.


But the question is, would you chance welding on your repair connections? It's all about good penetration of the two metals, not so much the look it has of a weld. 


If I chance operating my machine with the connection I have right now, I'm just asking for disaster. 

What tears them up (and the cable) is running them through traps, floor drains. 

Sometimes options are limited on emergency calls and it's easy to get lazy and work it through a floor drain, get it open and gone. Pulling a toilet, busting an old cleanout out of a questionable older piping system can expand the job when you don't want it to.


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## easttexasplumb

No the last thing I want is a customer to see a coupling, where cable should be. It would be a whole lot easier to explain that the cable broke because of a bad spot in their line.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

easttexasplumb said:


> No the last thing I want is a customer to see a coupling, where cable should be. It would be a whole lot easier to explain that the cable broke because of a bad spot in their line.


 
If I was to try this, I'd be losing 1" off my cables. The cables are actually in good shape, just older.

That doesn't mean I haven't destroyed a cable or two in the day.


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## RW Plumbing

It would be rather difficult to retrive the half of my cable that got stuck in someone's drain. I'm a good welder, and I wouldn't even trust it. Drain cables are pricey but not as pricey as unsuccessfully retrieving a cable that broke off.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

$7.25

That's the part I need to fix my problem. Mine is spread outwards bad, and the next thing that happens is it always snaps off.


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## 504Plumber

I'm not exactly sure if you are talking about welding cables together or not. When a little breaks off our 1/2" cables, we do weld a new end on it to connect the blades, however I wouldn't trust a welded together cable. Last thing I want late in the evening or on a weekend is dragging a poo filled cable out of a line and through a customers house..


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

504Plumber said:


> I'm not exactly sure if you are talking about welding cables together or not. When a little breaks off our 1/2" cables, we do weld a new end on it to connect the blades, however I wouldn't trust a welded together cable. Last thing I want late in the evening or on a weekend is dragging a poo filled cable out of a line and through a customers house..


 

The piece above, you cut off the bad end, then crank the connection on (hard to do) and then weld it so it cannot spin out.

I wouldn't splice a cable, meaning, add more points of failure into the equation. I'll spend the money on a new cable at that point.


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## Hillside

I'd cut it clean, wire wheel it and weld it up, Gorlitz makes a tool to install new tips (cable spreader), my sewer shop that has been around for 40+ years does it and we haven't had any problems, it would b the same thing if you added a cable to your existing 75' with a coupling right? Some sewers around here are 200' plus, I have 200' on a drum and 200' on a spare,


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## 504Plumber

HillsidePlumbco said:


> I'd cut it clean, wire wheel it and weld it up, Gorlitz makes a tool to install new tips (cable spreader), my sewer shop that has been around for 40+ years does it and we haven't had any problems, it would b the same thing if you added a cable to your existing 75' with a coupling right? Some sewers around here are 200' plus, I have 200' on a drum and 200' on a spare,


Hate to pick that thing up


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## ChrisConnor

I repair cables with a splice and no welding. When in the field I bend the cable over in a loop, hold with one foot and stomp the arc of the cable with the other foot and the cable breaks clean, then install splice. I might use a metal cutting blade on the grinder if its on the truck.

I don't use the cable spreader that Gorltiz sells because I feel that it's crucial to have all the coils around the spice to be uniform and tight around the splice. I've never had a splice come loose.

I good cable splice is almost undetectable.


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## SewerRatz

I spliced cables with the repair splicer, I have replaced many of the male and female ends on cables. Key is when you do the weld it just needs a spot, and not to run your welder to hot. I run my A/C Lincoln welder on 60 amps. Now doing standard 5/8 and 3/4 cables are a breeze. 

I use a chop saw to give me a clean smooth cut, then use a heavy flat blade screw driver to lift up the end of the cable just enough where the repair end catches its first thread and then it screws in with ease.

Repairing the magnum cables (double wound .55 and .66) is a different story. You have to get a good clean cut then I use a 10-32 screw to catch the inner cable and pull it out a few inches and then clamp it lightly with vice-grips to keep it from pulling back in. Then you screw in the magnum repair end into the inner cable. Now you can release the vice-grips and now the end will rest against the the two outer windings, you have to run a small bead on both of the outer ends to lock them onto the repair end.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

Awe **** Ron, that's what I got, magnum cables. 

I'm going to try it, the gain is a cable. I'll post pictures/results when the time comes.


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## AssTyme

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> I'm finding out after spending boo koo bucks on cables that I have even another cable that is shot at the connection, and since I have a full size welding shop thanks to my other businesses, it's a matter of attempting to repair the cable that's shot at the end.
> 
> I haven't even been to Spartan's website to see if they have them, but I'm assuming they do.
> 
> 
> I just tore down two drums tonight, took the power feed off and found a seized wheel on one side of the equation. Tore it down, cleaned it, got it turning again and repacked it with grease and works fine.
> 
> 
> Bent up my 100 cable like a whip at the end, it's certainly a stiff cable but I'd expect that at $225.00. 3/8" by 75'.
> 
> 
> Even though my machine was heavily dirty, my powerfeed handle has become extremely sloppy over the years, move back and forth along with forward and backward in front of the machine. Still works, can't see a replacement for years to come.
> 
> 
> But the question is, would you chance welding on your repair connections? It's all about good penetration of the two metals, not so much the look it has of a weld.
> 
> 
> If I chance operating my machine with the connection I have right now, I'm just asking for disaster.
> 
> What tears them up (and the cable) is running them through traps, floor drains.
> 
> Sometimes options are limited on emergency calls and it's easy to get lazy and work it through a floor drain, get it open and gone. Pulling a toilet, busting an old cleanout out of a questionable older piping system can expand the job when you don't want it to.





What do you mean by "they are shot at the connection" ?


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## Hillside

here's a few that's available round these parts:laughing:, on the 3rd job i had with this brand new over powered (to me, i was used to running general main line machines for 10 years) gorlitz g068hd machine it spun up like a noose, brand new 150' cable there was no way i was chucking it, cut out the bad section and spliced in a coupler and tacked it......... 40 jobs plus on the same cable no kinks no problems, i gained respect for that 3/4 hp machine quick :surrender:


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## UnclogNH

I splice with no problems I don't flip or kink very often My rule of thumb is No more than two splices on a 100' if so cable should be replaced.


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## Jiffy

That was going to be my question...hollow or inner core. Seems to me the couplers would work ok with hollow cable and a spot weld...I was unsure of how to repair inner cored cables till the post from SewerRatz...thanks...I'd love to see the pics or a video from either Dunbar or SewerRatz for a better visualization.


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## Jiffy

How about rebuilding sectional cables? I've had my 1.25" Eel cables rebuilt and have been happy with the results. Have a place here that will rebuild and I think it's about 1/3 cheaper than new cable. They straighten the outer cable and replace the inner I believe...never done it myself. How is the inner cable attached on sectionals anyway? I think you can buy tools to do this yourself maybe I'll give it a try sometime.


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## Jiffy

One other question...forgive me but I'm not a welder.

The weld on my cables (leaders)from the factory is a brass bead...why is that?


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## retired rooter

ChrisConnor said:


> I repair cables with a splice and no welding. When in the field I bend the cable over in a loop, hold with one foot and stomp the arc of the cable with the other foot and the cable breaks clean, then install splice. I might use a metal cutting blade on the grinder if its on the truck.
> 
> I don't use the cable spreader that Gorltiz sells because I feel that it's crucial to have all the coils around the spice to be uniform and tight around the splice. I've never had a splice come loose.
> 
> I good cable splice is almost undetectable.


I use heavy duty bolt cutters for cutting cable and after yrs of spot welding the splices or new fittings on end I now use the heavy duty locktite . I have screwed them in in the field(without locktite or spot weld) and used them immediately never had one come apart (YET) but I very seldom kink one these days


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## Nayman's Drain

I don't like using the screw-in type of cable repair kits.
General has a weld-on repair piece that can be connected to the remaing cable with at capscrew. 
I take the pieces to my machineshop, where there's an old guy who is aces with silver solder. And instead of connecting the two pieces of cable with a capscrew, he solders them together, grinds it nice & round so it runs thru my self-feeder, and away I go.


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## SewerRatz

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> Awe **** Ron, that's what I got, magnum cables.
> 
> I'm going to try it, the gain is a cable. I'll post pictures/results when the time comes.


 Here is a picture of the female end for the .66 magnum cable from DrainCables direct website.


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## RealLivePlumber

It looks like those repair ends are made specifically for a field repair. 

I still wouldnt trust it. 

The cables are heat treated after factory welding, to eliminate stress risers caused by the welding process.


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## ILPlumber

I don't do drain cleaning. But like everything else, I have an opinion on this:whistling2:

From what I read above, a new cable costs $225. Do you guys not charge enough per hour/job to cover the necessary replacement of your cables?

$225 is an extremely small amount of money in the grand scope of business ownership. 

Or, are you just wanting to limp your cables along as long as humanly possible for the largest return on your investment?

Are times really that tight?:blink:


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## SewerRatz

ILPlumber said:


> I don't do drain cleaning. But like everything else, I have an opinion on this:whistling2:
> 
> From what I read above, a new cable costs $225. Do you guys not charge enough per hour/job to cover the necessary replacement of your cables?
> 
> $225 is an extremely small amount of money in the grand scope of business ownership.
> 
> Or, are you just wanting to limp your cables along as long as humanly possible for the largest return on your investment?
> 
> Are times really that tight?:blink:


Why toss away a perfectly good cable when all that is worn out is the female end? My father hates new cables mainly cause they need a good breaking in. By the time a cable is broken in properly the ends are worn out So we replace the ends, and use a good broken in cable. Now once a cable gets to limber or starts to develop waves or has seen its last line of full of acid, its time to buy new cable. Reparing cable is part of owning the equipment.



RealLivePlumber said:


> It looks like those repair ends are made specifically for a field repair.
> 
> I still wouldnt trust it.
> 
> The cables are heat treated after factory welding, to eliminate stress risers caused by the welding process.


 The ends pictured are factory ends. I have been repairing cables since I was 16. AJ Coleman repairs cables for who knows how long. Never had a problem with making the repairs and welding the ends in place and never had an end break at a weld.


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## Protech

I like sectionals. I'm going on like a decade on the same k-60 and k-50 cables. If one does finally give up, I'll just replace that section.


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## 1703

I was told spartan has changed the ends a little?

I can't remember for sure- either the new male ends won't work on old female ends or new female ends won't work on old male ends.

Don't know if its all sizes.

Anyone know the skinny?

And no, I have never repaired a cable.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

I just spent $500 on 3 cables for 3 machines, pulled out all the cable out of my large drum and found no kinks, good cables, but 2 connectors are bad. 

If I can repair those ends under $40 and be back in the running, I'll get the same amount of years *7* and keep my costs down.


Unexpected to find those connections in bad shape and if I pitch those good cables with no kinks/bad spots, I'm throwing money away. 

I could take a picture right now of how they look on the driveway and they're in good shape.



I just made $150 clearing a drain a few minutes ago, DAMN what a difference a new cable makes. I never even touched the cable... ran a pipe from the front of the machine to the opening in the cleanout, easy peasey japanezy -,-


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## SewerRatz

Colgar said:


> I was told spartan has changed the ends a little?
> 
> I can't remember for sure- either the new male ends won't work on old female ends or new female ends won't work on old male ends.
> 
> Don't know if its all sizes.
> 
> Anyone know the skinny?
> 
> And no, I have never repaired a cable.


Colgar,

Marven at AJ Coleman told me about the spartan ends as well. Its the new male ends will not work with the old female ends. Just a slight enough of a change to be a pain in the ... well you know.


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## AssTyme

What exactly do you guys mean when you say the connectors are bad ? Mine are getting sloppy/more play in them. Is this what you are talking about ?


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## AssTyme

SewerRatz said:


> Colgar,
> 
> Marven at AJ Coleman told me about the spartan ends as well. Its the new male ends will not work with the old female ends. Just a slight enough of a change to be a pain in the ... well you know.



So the newer OEM Spartan cables will also not work with the after market cables ? I wonder if they will also change ?


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## stillaround

Anyone can cable a drain with a good new cable..it takes a real mensch to work those kinks ......times tight Il Plumber??? they are talkin double dip..if it happens you might want to learn to cable a drain...when times were good and I worked in Chicago we still hobbled along on the old cables because I think the boss hated how soon they got kinked...3/8 on that Spartan 100 was a kink waiting to happen. The 1/2" cable on my k-3800 is original and been going strong for years..a little hard on the 1 1/2" turns.


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## SewerRatz

AssTyme said:


> So the newer OEM Spartan cables will also not work with the after market cables ? I wonder if they will also change ?





AssTyme said:


> What exactly do you guys mean when you say the connectors are bad ? Mine are getting sloppy/more play in them. Is this what you are talking about ?


The ends start getting to sloppy, you can wiggle the male end in the female end. Once the play gets to much the ends can pull apart if two much torque is applied. Now the male ends on the .55 cable you do not need to worry about them pulling apart.

As for Spartan changing the design of their ends, its on the 3/4" cable and AJ Coleman already has the newer ends in stock already.


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## AssTyme

SewerRatz said:


> Now the male ends on the .55 cable you do not need to worry about them pulling apart.



I thought they were all of the same design ? .55 & .66 magnum ends are stronger ?


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## SewerRatz

AssTyme said:


> I thought they were all of the same design ? .55 & .66 magnum ends are stronger ?


 In the picture the end on the left is the .55 male end as you can see no way for it to wear and slide off the pin. The one on the right is .66 male end, once it starts to wear it can pull out of the female end.


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## AssTyme

I have to ask.... if the .55 end is superior in design why wouldn't they be used on all ?


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

I ordered parts today. Parts missing off my 81 as well. It's long overdue and I might get some time and really clean the 81 up... it looks rough as hell.


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