# Fluidmaster Pro Brass shank



## Cal (Jun 17, 2008)

So today i had to change out two fillvalves on 2 ten-12 year old 1.6 gal BRIGGS toilets .

The Pro 45B ' s WOULD NOT SEAL to the tank :furious::furious: Even pulled them and tried two others of the same type and STILL NO LUCK !! :furious::furious: 

The tank on the Briggs has a funny shape underneath and i think that was not allowing the new ones to seal . The old , white plastic ones must have been designed specific .

Just wanted to send out a " HEADS UP " 

Cal


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

I assume the old ones had the thicker gasket?


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## Cal (Jun 17, 2008)

Matt said:


> I assume the old ones had the thicker gasket?


I believe so ,,, yes . And wider also ,,, gotta find a good #2 Ballcock !


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

I have made my own gaskets for different stuff using gasket material before.

You have to buy quite a bit for just a little cut though........


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## plumbpro (Mar 10, 2010)

Matt said:


> I have made my own gaskets for different stuff using gasket material before.
> 
> You have to buy quite a bit for just a little cut though........


Like actual gasket material or a tube of gasket maker


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## plumbpro (Mar 10, 2010)

Nevermind, I understand now


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

I just had that exact same problem. I ended up changing the valve out to another 45B and it was fine. I think there may be some kind of defect where the brass and plastic meet. I haven't bench tested the defective valve yet to see what the problem was yet. I will try to remember to post my findings.



Cal said:


> So today i had to change out two fillvalves on 2 ten-12 year old 1.6 gal BRIGGS toilets .
> 
> The Pro 45B ' s WOULD NOT SEAL to the tank :furious::furious: Even pulled them and tried two others of the same type and STILL NO LUCK !! :furious::furious:
> 
> ...


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## Cal (Jun 17, 2008)

Protech said:


> I just had that exact same problem. I ended up changing the valve out to another 45B and it was fine. I think there may be some kind of defect where the brass and plastic meet. I haven't bench tested the defective valve yet to see what the problem was yet. I will try to remember to post my findings.


 Thanks ,,, I tried the same thing but another one leaked also 

Those toilets are CRAP , have never flushed well and THANKFULLY the HO wants to change them to Gerber Vipers :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Cal said:


> So today i had to change out two fillvalves on 2 ten-12 year old 1.6 gal BRIGGS toilets .
> 
> The Pro 45B ' s WOULD NOT SEAL to the tank :furious::furious: Even pulled them and tried two others of the same type and STILL NO LUCK !! :furious::furious:
> 
> ...


 
That stinks- poorly designed and/or made material can make a good plumber look like a chump. 

One time I was performing a major tank re-build for my nieghbor with him watching. I attempted to install the tank bolts in tank but they wouldn't fit in the porcelain holes. The tank said "made in Guatemala." I just turned and looked at my neighbor and said, "They just don't make toilets in Guatemala like they used to," while shaking my head. And he burst out laughing. I had to ream the holes in tank a little bigger to fit the brass tank bolts.:thumbsup:


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## Nevada Plumber (Jan 3, 2009)

I've had problems with the holes being drilled to large in some toilets (mainly Mansfield brand) for the gasket on a Fluidmaster to seal. I carry a handful of larger gaskets for when I run into that problem.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

That brass shank don't mean **** to me or my customers. 


Just a bait trick to get plumbers to spend more money on the average fill valve. 

I trust plastic nut to plastic shank long before plastic nut to brass shank. 

400A's now for 20 years...don't fix what ain't broke...


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> That brass shank don't mean **** to me or my customers.
> 
> 
> Just a bait trick to get plumbers to spend more money on the average fill valve.
> ...


Same her Dunbar, there is nothing wrong with using the all plastic shank works just as good as any brass one. :yes:


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

Just yesterday, I removed a toilet supply to an older brass shank, somehow the guy who installed it put it on crooked, I have no idea how it did not leak.


It was all chewed up from turning it tight, and was about a 30 degree angle. :blink:


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> That brass shank don't mean **** to me or my customers.
> 
> 
> Just a bait trick to get plumbers to spend more money on the average fill valve.
> ...


You know, I have one in my shop/garage :whistling2: and just this morning I was looking at the thing, thinking the same thing...kinda scratching my head wondering why the heck did I spend the extra scratch on the darn thing. Now the black one vs. the HO gray one...that's another story. :thumbsup:


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Ron said:


> Same her Dunbar, there is nothing wrong with using the all plastic shank works just as good as any brass one. :yes:


Probably better, since there's no transition from plastic to brass.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

Remember the flesh colored ones?










I'm still removing these....and some are getting 14 years, WITH high water pressure.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> Remember the flesh colored ones?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I still find a few of those around, now these ones are all junk, walmarts specials. I find one of these in a toilet, I remove it right on the spot.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Man Ron, those are my favs...easy to adjust...readily available...and CHEAP! :laughing:


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Ron said:


> I still find a few of those around, now these ones are all junk, walmarts specials. I find one of these in a toilet, I remove it right on the spot.


Can You Say Chinese...










Funny some of the OEM Kohler fill valve look like those now...:laughing:


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> Remember the flesh colored ones?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ah the ol Fluidmaster 200 backflow specials.... :laughing:


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## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

Ron said:


> I still find a few of those around, now these ones are all junk, walmarts specials. I find one of these in a toilet, I remove it right on the spot.


 That looks exactly like the Hush fill valve, from your favorite supplier, WB. Except that the WB is orange. I bought a case of these a couple years back, didn't like them. I used them up on houses that were for sale:laughing:. I always end up back with FM. I just wish they weren't so readily avail., & cheap, at box stores.


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## TopDog (Jun 12, 2010)

Ron said:


> I still find a few of those around, now these ones are all junk, walmarts specials. I find one of these in a toilet, I remove it right on the spot.


Anyone want to take bets on Walmart getting into the service business?


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

tommy plumber said:


> that stinks- poorly designed and/or made material can make a good plumber look like a chump.
> 
> One time i was performing a major tank re-build for my nieghbor with him watching. I attempted to install the tank bolts in tank but they wouldn't fit in the porcelain holes. The tank said "made in guatemala." i just turned and looked at my neighbor and said, "they just don't make toilets in guatemala like they used to," while shaking my head. And he burst out laughing. i had to ream the holes in tank a little bigger to fit the brass tank bolts.:thumbsup:


i would like to know how did you ream the tank holes?


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

TopDog said:


> Anyone want to take bets on Walmart getting into the service business?


You never can tell these days.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

PLUMBER_BILL said:


> i would like to know how did you ream the tank holes?


 
I used a drill bit. I believe it had a carbide tip. The tank in question had the skinny tank bolts. I use the WB or equivalent thichness tank bolt. Some gentle reaming of the porcelain holes did the trick. If memory serves me, it was an Amer. Standard w/c (made in Guatemala).


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

I use a diamond grit hole saw or grinder. Not hard at all. I also keep a few diamond grit mini files on the truck for that reason.



PLUMBER_BILL said:


> i would like to know how did you ream the tank holes?


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## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

Something easier keep a few sets of American standard close coupled bolts on your truck. A/S rep will send them to you free.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

PLUMBER_BILL said:


> i would like to know how did you ream the tank holes?


carbide bit on a roto zip.


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