# How to seal gap between abs trap riser



## srloren (Nov 19, 2014)

I need to fill the gap between the abs pipe and the metal shower drain in an upstairs bathroom. The gab is too wide to use the gaskets that are normally used. I don't trust oakum and lead for this job. Do any of you guys have suggestions for me? It currently has s hard filling like abs glue but it has a hairline gap between the pipe and the strainer which is where it leaks. Anyone have a solution?


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Been many years since I've worked with ABS to a different material.... Would liquid lead work with ABS? it would be a more permanent solution... I don't really care for it, but it has come in handy sealing PVC into a cast hub because the HO can't afford a small bust up.


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## srloren (Nov 19, 2014)

OpenSights said:


> Been many years since I've worked with ABS to a different material.... Would liquid lead work with ABS? it would be a more permanent solution... I don't really care for it, but it has come in handy sealing PVC into a cast hub because the HO can't afford a small bust up.


I am not familiar with liquid lead. I will google it. Thanks much


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Liquid lead is just a term I've been told it's called. The stuff I've used comes in a calk gun tube, but I've used the can type stuff like this too: http://www.menards.com/main/store/20090519001/items/media/Plumbing/oatey/Prod_Tech_Spec/PipeSeal.pdf

The calk tube stuff is less messy IMHO. Ferguson's out here carries it. But like I said, I only use it if it's the only option.

Edit: don't use the stuff in the link I posted... looked closer, not for plastic. The can stuff I've seen/used has a brush application like pipe dope.


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## srloren (Nov 19, 2014)

OpenSights said:


> Liquid lead is just a term I've been told it's called. The stuff I've used comes in a calk gun tube, but I've used the can type stuff like this too: http://www.menards.com/main/store/20090519001/items/media/Plumbing/oatey/Prod_Tech_Spec/PipeSeal.pdf
> 
> The calk tube stuff is less messy IMHO. Ferguson's out here carries it. But like I said, I only use it if it's the only option.
> 
> Edit: don't use the stuff in the link I posted... looked closer, not for plastic. The can stuff I've seen/used has a brush application like pipe dope.


Thanks OpenSights. I am calling Oaety Monday to find out about a product they have. There is a Ferguson's Supply House a half mile from my home I may wind up going there too. Take care...


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

No problem. Hope it works for ya.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Matter of fact, I've used it for a temp patch on a 4" pvc split joint before. The wye on it's back was right above two air ducts in a finished basement. I slathered it on and told the HO there was no guarantee it would slow the drip, wait 24hrs before using that B/R group, and call us back out once the tin knockers were done removing the ducts. Started getting worried 'cause I didn't hear from them for two months! We were able to go back to make a proper repair eventually. They had forgot about it cause there was no more leak to remind them. LOL!


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## srloren (Nov 19, 2014)

If my repair leaks and I end up removing the metal drain, the video below shows how to do it but the drain they are removing is plastic and easy to cut out. My drain is I am sure it is Stainless Steel and I don't think I can hack saw it out like they did in the video. I just don't know. Have any of you guys had experience with cutting a SS drain out with a hack saw. I have a Saw-zall but they are so rough and difficult to handle making a cut like this where I can;t cut into the Shower base. Can you view the video and give me some advice on how you would do this?

http://www.wingtite.com/watch-video/


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## bct p&h (Jan 19, 2013)

Why don't you trust lead and oakum for this? That's exactly how I've sealed every shower, toilet flange and mop sink I've ever done in a commercial building, thousands of them. Never had one leak before.


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## srloren (Nov 19, 2014)

bct p&h said:


> Why don't you trust lead and oakum for this? That's exactly how I've sealed every shower, toilet flange and mop sink I've ever done in a commercial building, thousands of them. Never had one leak before.


I'm going to think about your question. I appreciate your contribution just collecting ideas for now. I am not too old to learn. Thanks


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## newyorkcity (Nov 25, 2010)

These would be my 3 choices:
1) lead and oakum, but I still use it several times a year. I understand the apprehension if you don't.
2) oakum and lead wool, which can fit any irregular shape.
3) oakum and


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

newyorkcity said:


> These would be my 3 choices:
> 1) lead and oakum, but I still use it several times a year. I understand the apprehension if you don't.
> 2) oakum and lead wool, which can fit any irregular shape.
> 3) oakum and
> View attachment 56274


Plastic seal, thats the stuff.

I've leaded lots of stool flanges, never leaded on the horizontal before. 

Honestly, I would be nervous leading a plastic pipe, I would think it could warp, go out of round and lose it's seal. Not saying it can't be done, but I've never done it or heard of someone doing it.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Just realized I forgot to mention, I still use oakum with the plastic seal so it doesn't ooze into the drain and cause an obstruction.


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

OpenSights said:


> Plastic seal, thats the stuff. I've leaded lots of stool flanges, never leaded on the horizontal before. Honestly, I would be nervous leading a plastic pipe, I would think it could warp, go out of round and lose it's seal. Not saying it can't be done, but I've never done it or heard of someone doing it.


Gets done all the time with a proper caulking adapter, you have to let it cool before you use your caulking irons. Horizontal joint you use a joint runner rope.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

See, that's the type of stuff I wish I could've learned from my grandfather. By the time I got out of the Corps and started in plumbing, he was well into retirement, and was in no shape to even think of trying to teach me. Depression era kid. He passed away about a month ago; no one knows how old he was. About eight years old he had to drop out of school to work. That's when he finally got his SS#. No birth certificate. At least we know he still could've been president. I still use all the tools he gave me, can't beat the quality.


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

http://youtu.be/ZCpB_wBb2Lo

Maybe this will help


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

Now that I've fully watched the video, this guy is clueless, but it gives you a general idea.


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## srloren (Nov 19, 2014)

plumbdrum said:


> Now that I've fully watched the video, this guy is clueless, but it gives you a general idea.


You are right, he did not center the horizontal pipe in the hub and used a packing Iron instead of the yarning iron for the oakum, then to top it off he made the pour 180 degrees from where he should. If you pour into the hub and a little faster than he did if would have worked out much better. Also when he dipped the ladle, he should have paused for a few seconds with the ladle in the pot to heat it up so the lead would be hotter when he made his pour. The guy is not a rough plumber, probably a finish guy... just a guess.


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## bct p&h (Jan 19, 2013)

plumbdrum said:


> http://youtu.be/ZCpB_wBb2Lo
> 
> Maybe this will help


That guy is a moron. The oakum was way too loose to even think about pouring. The pipe was still flopping around. With that short of a piece of pipe the oakum should have been tight enough to support the weight before the lead went it. 
He should have been using a spoon iron. Hard to tell on my phone but looked like he packed the oakum with a caulking iron.
The runner was too loose too. That's why he didn't have a full joint after he poured. Also looked like it was a dry runner. That thing will be junk in no time. 
He's lucky he didn't hurt himself putting that cold ladle into the hot lead. I'm really surprised it didn't splash at him as soon as it touched the pot.


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

bct p&h said:


> That guy is a moron. The oakum was way too loose to even think about pouring. The pipe was still flopping around. With that short of a piece of pipe the oakum should have been tight enough to support the weight before the lead went it. He should have been using a spoon iron. Hard to tell on my phone but looked like he packed the oakum with a caulking iron. The runner was too loose too. That's why he didn't have a full joint after he poured. Also looked like it was a dry runner. That thing will be junk in no time. He's lucky he didn't hurt himself putting that cold ladle into the hot lead. I'm really surprised it didn't splash at him as soon as it touched the pot.


He got more lead on the floor than in the hub, lol.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

plumbdrum said:


> He got more lead on the floor than in the hub, lol.


Thanks for the video! I've never been in the situation to lead that way, but seeing, "basically" how it's done is cool. Yep, I cringed a few times in that video... not saying I could do it better on my first try or anything... It was kinda like watching the new guy try to solder for the first time.

I'm more of a 'hands on' learner. But vids like that do help. Even though I've left plumbing for the most part for drain cleaning, doesn't mean I don't like learning.

One of the tools I got from my grandfather was a chisel type thing... some what rounded. While tamping lead in cast flanges it seamed to work perfect. Asked him about it years later, he said that is what he used it for even tough that wasn't what it was intended to do.

I still haven't perfected the one poure, tamp, and done yet.


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## bct p&h (Jan 19, 2013)

plumbdrum said:


> He got more lead on the floor than in the hub, lol.


I've taught apprentices how to pour a better joint on their first try! 
It is kind of hard to fill a 4" joint with a 5lb ladle when 3lbs ends up on the floor and another pound ends up stuck to the outside of the hub where he was pouring.
At the end of the video he said there were gaps and he would have to redo it, so why post the video? It was good for a laugh!


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

bct p&h said:


> I've taught apprentices how to pour a better joint on their first try! It is kind of hard to fill a 4" joint with a 5lb ladle when 3lbs ends up on the floor and another pound ends up stuck to the outside of the hub where he was pouring. At the end of the video he said there were gaps and he would have to redo it, so why post the video? It was good for a laugh!


Like an a$$ I posted the video before I watched it . Looks like he is at some sort of trade school. I hope he is not teaching kids or other people his "skills".


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## Mykeeb33 (Mar 6, 2015)

Thanks for posting. It was good for a laugh! ..... For safety's sake, he should have mentioned that you always wear safety glasses and only use dry oakum, otherwise that hot lead may fly back in your face. Also it's a good idea to preheat the joint with a torch before you pour.... It's been years since I poured a horizontal joint, but I remember the 'rope' was sort of a black rubber substance that was 3/4" square, not round. It had a metal pin that would lock it together. Worked great.


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## jnohs (Jan 27, 2012)

That guy jnohsed the hell out of that joint... LOL


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

jnohs said:


> That guy jnohsed the hell out of that joint... LOL


...
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/4b/6c/ee/4b6cee26f7aa40dd7ba6582bcfd2f94d.jpg


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