# What manometer do you use?



## Pipewrench78 (Dec 21, 2021)

Looking to replace my digital manometer pressure tester.
Any recommendations? Anyone use the Klein?


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## Lickitlikeafritter (12 mo ago)

Not helpful to your question but what do you use your manometer for regularly? Testing faulty equipment or new installs or a mix? Never seen one honestly and I’m curious if it’s worth an investment to have, even tho I haven’t touched one and we do gas installs regularly. Lines and bigger equipment but the most we do is air test and roll.


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## Pipewrench78 (Dec 21, 2021)

As you probably know, pressure testing is one thing, checking pressure is another.

the manometer may not be used regularly, but is wise to have if you run gas or do service that involves gas.

Im a mechanical contractor as well, limited to fuel gas only, but knowing what your water column measures are for some jobs is crucial.

Hope some of this helps shed light.


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## Sstratton6175 (Jan 10, 2021)

@Pipewrench78 The one I have is a UEI EM-201 it runs around $200 but if you’re not using it daily I don’t think you really need to spend that kind of money.

@Lickitlikeafritter If you do any troubleshooting or startup reports of gas equipment a digital manometer is a must have tool. If you call a factory tech support line with an issue on a gas burner 99 out of 100 times the very first question they ask you is “What’s the gas pressure?”


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

I use a Fieldpiece stick multi meter with an accessory manometer head


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

I use a fieldpiece dual port digital manometer.

Great for setting burner pressure, regulator pressure, house pressure, checking for leaks, adjusting high and low fire on tankless water heaters, etc, etc.

I like the dual port so I can read pressure drop across the high and low side of a regulator. Helps diagnose problems.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

I use an analog one made by yellow jacket. Dead accurate. Old school. And I like it.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> I use an analog one made by yellow jacket. Dead accurate. Old school. And I like it.


Those are good for some things. For a tankless I’d rather have a digital rig.


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> I use a fieldpiece dual port digital manometer.
> 
> Great for setting burner pressure, regulator pressure, house pressure, checking for leaks, adjusting high and low fire on tankless water heaters, etc, etc.
> 
> I like the dual port so I can read pressure drop across the high and low side of a regulator. Helps diagnose problems.


Yep, I should’ve bought the dual port but my supply house only had the single port at the time and I didn’t know the dual existed. When mine breaks I’ll get one.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

I trust that needle more than a digital number. That’s just me though.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> I trust that needle more than a digital number. That’s just me though.


On a tankless the pressures change too rapidly to use a water tube type manometer to be accurate. You have electric solenoid valves opening and closing rapidly.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> On a tankless the pressures change too rapidly to use a water tube type manometer to be accurate. You have electric solenoid valves opening and closing rapidly.


He said needle, not water.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

This is the one. Tried and true. Just don’t drop it on a hard service.


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## jakewilcox (Sep 3, 2019)

I also use the UEI. 

Before I (ehhhemmmm) I used a Dwyer that I really liked. But it met the demise of something in a plumber’s shirt pocket and bending down while said item sort of just slips out of said plumber’s shirt pocket while the plumber utters some words that would make Rodney Dangerfield blush. 

I will probably get the Dwyer again at some point. I wind up dealing with a lot of vacuum systems where pressures are like -3” wc.

They also have differential pressure manometers if you need it.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> This is the one. Tried and true. Just don’t drop it on a hard service.
> View attachment 134737


That thing sucks dude


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

skoronesa said:


> He said needle, not water.


Same difference with that crappy gauge, it’s not suitable for tankless water heater service.

The water type are the most accurate for some situations, but with tankless the gas solenoids open and close rapidly during its operation. So your needle gauge will flutter.

I bought one years ago and it didn’t help me……I believe I recently threw it away.

Then I bought this one……








It has plastic hose connection ports and they broke off……awkward to use anyway. It’s sitting on the floor of my old work truck that I haven’t cleaned off yet.


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## Tim Whistler (11 mo ago)

I carry the field piece dual port manometer, that has been with me for at least 10 years and has held up incredibly well. I also carry the analog one in the little blue box, I forget the name, which I use for simpler things but I recently did a comparison between the two and the analog manometer was significantly off, like four or five pounds off, so I'm pretty much sticking with the field piece unit for now. Having the Dual ports is exceptionally helpful when working on larger or multi-valve units. Get yourself a nice carrying case for it and keep a bunch of black steel adapter pieces in there and you will never regret it.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

Then I bought this one and it’s the best I’ve used.








I keep it in this case with a few other things. A rinnai keypad for units that don’t have it or I can install it at the unit to troubleshoot.

Gas meter union washers.

gas sizing quick reference.

various fittings…..


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

I use it on tankless Breh. Works just fyne.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> I use it on tankless Breh. Works just fyne.


Ok sure. 🫶

Those are spring type gauges and they’re very unreliable. The worst sold, look it up for yourself

But besides that, the needle flutters and you can’t get an accurate reading when troubleshooting when the unit is operating and modulating the gas valves.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> Ok sure. 🫶
> 
> Those are spring type gauges and they’re very unreliable. The worst sold, look it up for yourself
> 
> But besides that, the needle flutters and you can’t get an accurate reading when troubleshooting when the unit is operating and modulating the gas valves.


sure, it flutters, a digital doesnt bounce around either? 🙄 used it a couple weeks ago on a tankless on a code 12. discovered the flame rod and ignition gasket was half gone from whatever last dipshit serviced it. it gets used pretty often throughout the year, there's quite a few plumbers who install gas piping and are using NG regulators on LP appliances because they just say "regulator" at the counter. They assume one for all and all for one. Hasn't ever failed me. It's ok not to understand my flawless methods.🤟


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> sure, it flutters, a digital doesnt bounce around either? 🙄 used it a couple weeks ago on a tankless on a code 12. discovered the flame rod and ignition gasket was half gone from whatever last dipshit serviced it. it gets used pretty often throughout the year, there's quite a few plumbers who install gas piping and are using NG regulators on LP appliances because they just say "regulator" at the counter. They assume one for all and all for one. Hasn't ever failed me. It's ok not to understand my flawless methods.🤟


I use Maxitrol 325 series regulators. They’re suitable for natural or LP.

I’m sorry but those spring type manometers are worthless for troubleshooting the solenoids. I’ve already been through it, that’s why it’s in the garbage. But it’s fine if you want to use it.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

As you can see the max and min fire rates for the burner side of the manifold. You can’t get that accuracy with that spring gauge down to .4” Wc. You set these pressures when you replace the brain board of the unit or you switch manifolds and convert to a different type gas


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> I use Maxitrol 325 series regulators. They’re suitable for natural or LP.
> 
> I’m sorry but those spring type manometers are worthless for troubleshooting the solenoids. I’ve already been through it, that’s why it’s in the garbage. But it’s fine if you want to use it.


What do they come set at out of the box?


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

We used to repair gas leaks and I used to have an old style one but that was
back a long time ago maybe 40 years ago ........ 
I have never needed one or had the need for one like forever..
Dont even remember how to use it any longer......


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> What do they come set at out of the box?


They come set within a range of pressure. You test with your gauge and if you need to fine tune the regulator you can adjust the outlet pressure. You can replace the spring with different color spring and that gives you a different pressure range.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

Master Mark said:


> We used to repair gas leaks and I used to have an old style one but that was
> back a long time ago maybe 40 years ago ........
> I have never needed one or had the need for one like forever..
> Dont even remember how to use it any longer......


You don’t test the gas system for leaks after you install gas water heaters and replace the gas valve or modify the piping ? 

Every time I turn the gas off at a meter or alter gas piping I check the entire system for leaks using a manometer and soap the fittings in the area that I worked.


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> You don’t test the gas system for leaks after you install gas water heaters and replace the gas valve or modify the piping ?
> 
> Every time I turn the gas off at a meter or alter gas piping I check the entire system for leaks using a manometer and soap the fittings in the area that I worked.


I think we are talking about two different things... re-piping a house and
just doing a water heater  

So why would you turn off the whole house just to change out
a simple water heater when you have a ball valve on the manifold
or on the water heater?? Are you pumping them for more work trying
to find something to charge for??

Generally I use soap and a spray bottle on my installs, 
which is just a simple water heater change out....
but its sort of overkill to test the whole house unless you 
are like a bull in a china shop....

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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

Master Mark said:


> I think we are talking about two different things... re-piping a house and
> just doing a water heater
> 
> So why would you turn off the whole house just to change out
> ...


If I go to a home to replace a water heater and for any reason the gas must be turned off at the meter then upon turning the meter back on I test the tightness of the system.

Various scenarios could come up where the gas should be shut down. Use your imagination. 

Its called due diligence.


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## jakewilcox (Sep 3, 2019)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> Ok sure. 🫶
> 
> Those are spring type gauges and they’re very unreliable. The worst sold, look it up for yourself
> 
> But besides that, the needle flutters and you can’t get an accurate reading when troubleshooting when the unit is operating and modulating the gas valves.


Do you feel the need to always prescribe to another professional (a peer) what does and doesn’t work? 

One of the most accurate methods for measuring dynamic and on the market is analog. It’s a tube bent in a u-shape with water in it and a ruler; this is how all manometers are calibrated. Another analog device is a Capsihelic; these are considered far more accurate than most digital manometers; and they can be calibrated by static and span pressures.

If an analog manometer works for what a professional needs it to do, it’s fine.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

jakewilcox said:


> Do you feel the need to always prescribe to another professional (a peer) what does and doesn’t work?
> 
> One of the most accurate methods for measuring dynamic and on the market is analog. It’s a tube bent in a u-shape with water in it and a ruler; this is how all manometers are calibrated. Another analog device is a Capsihelic; these are considered far more accurate than most digital manometers; and they can be calibrated by static and span pressures.
> 
> If an analog manometer works for what a professional needs it to do, it’s fine.


Because it’s not suitable to work on some problems that you can encounter. Call Rinnai and ask their tech support why their engineers require a digital manometer for troubleshooting then you’ll have an answer from someone other than me.

You just don’t understand how a tankless water heater works or you wouldn’t have posted what you’ve posted. You’re making an emotional issue out of a mechanical one……..it’s nothing personal buddy.

For dynamic testing the digital manometer is the proper tool for tankless water heater trouble shooting and other gas appliances that use modulating solenoids.

That’s my opinion after servicing tankless and pool heating equipment and that’s Rinnai opinion as well.

You’re welcome to have any opinion you’d like about me and or the content of my posts. Have a great day.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

Terry you got a link to the one you have? Also, a sniffer or do you just hit the joints with a lighter?


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> Terry you got a link to the one you have? Also, a sniffer or do you just hit the joints with a lighter?


I just use a lighter myself... if I burn my eyebrows off 
then I know I got a leak......... 😆 😆 😆 😆 😆


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> If I go to a home to replace a water heater and for any reason the gas must be turned off at the meter then upon turning the meter back on I test the tightness of the system.
> 
> Various scenarios could come up where the gas should be shut down. Use your imagination.
> 
> Its called due diligence.



No, its not due diligence --its lecturing

you are just doing what the left wing liberals do so well these days...

you are "virtue signaling" everyone on a plumbing forum...

next you are probably gonna start calling everyone a racist or a hack
cause they do things different than you....

its a fuc/ing water heater.... get over it


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## hewhodigsholes (Oct 28, 2020)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> You don’t test the gas system for leaks after you install gas water heaters and replace the gas valve or modify the piping ?
> 
> Every time I turn the gas off at a meter or alter gas piping I check the entire system for leaks using a manometer and soap the fittings in the area that I worked.


It may be just a difference in local protocols, but in the case of a spot repair or valve replacement we only have to test the section we were working on with bubbles or a sniffer. Modifying the system (adding piping, converting fuel types or pressures) mandates an air test with an analog guage at 10-20 psi. That was both here in Missouri and back in Texas. Manometers are only specified for use in troubleshooting regulators and valves. I've done plenty of tankless and the manufacturers tech support has never required a digital manometer.

Please keep in mind that we don't all use the same codes, and not all methods are required or even approved by our local AHJ. Telling another professional that they are doing it wrong because it's not the way you do it comes across pretty heavy handed.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

hewhodigsholes said:


> It may be just a difference in local protocols, but in the case of a spot repair or valve replacement we only have to test the section we were working on with bubbles or a sniffer. Modifying the system (adding piping, converting fuel types or pressures) mandates an air test with an analog guage at 10-20 psi. That was both here in Missouri and back in Texas. Manometers are only specified for use in troubleshooting regulators and valves. I've done plenty of tankless and the manufacturers tech support has never required a digital manometer.
> 
> Please keep in mind that we don't all use the same codes, and not all methods are required or even approved by our local AHJ. Telling another professional that they are doing it wrong because it's not the way you do it comes across pretty heavy handed.


Rinnai requires a digital manometer to set the various manifold pressures. You’re setting pressures down to the .4” water column and the gas valves modulate very quickly. It’s the proper tool for the job, per me and rinnai engineers.

I’m explaining my posts, not asking to agree and you’re welcome to your opinion.

When I shut a system down, like gas, I always check the system for leaks. Is it code in your area ? I don’t know but it’s due diligence when you’re dealing with an explosive gas.

I’ve found many unknown leaks by checking the system tightness upon putting it back in service after any reason. Some dangerous, some not dangerous. A digital manometer is a quick way to check, so is a water tube manometer. The spring type are trash, sorry if that offends, that’s my opinion and experience. 

Every leak that I’ve found like that was a win for me, extra work and a win for the customer because they’re safer and they’re not wasting gas.

Thank you for the discussion


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

To be clear, when I turn the gas meter off for any type of service, upon turning the system on, I use a manometer to test static gas pressure and system tightness.

I don’t test repair or alterations with air or nitrogen. Just the gas that’s being used at its delivery pressure.

It’s not about satisfying a code. It’s my due diligence IMO to leave the customer with a tight gas system after I’ve turned the main off and back on for ANY purpose.

When the gas supplier replaces a gas meter or they turn the gas off for any purpose they check the system for tightness. I concur and I follow their example.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

Master Mark said:


> No, its not due diligence --its lecturing
> 
> you are just doing what the left wing liberals do so well these days...
> 
> ...


I’m sorry you feel that way. 

It’s due diligence is how my insurance agent and attorney explained it to me.

Usually the last person that was at the house working on the gas systems gets the blame or at least part of blame when an accident happens.

So it’s best to check and document the gas pressure and do a simple leak test.

This can generate more work when you identify leaks. It can keep the customer safe.

Every 6 months I meet with my insurance agent and lawyer. We talk about liabilities and ways to help protect yourself.


Why do you think utility trucks put cones out around their trucks in parking lots when they’re not even working ? Because their insurance company told them to. 

Look, I’m just dropping free knowledge and having a business/plumbing discussion on a professional forum.

I’m not asking anyone to agree or disagree. I’m posting my experience and what’s been passed on to me by the professionals I work for and with.

If anyone would like me to stop responding to their posts or communicating with them in any way shape or form, I will honor and respect that request.

For all others that want to have discussion with me, please let’s continue.

Im going to be taking care of some things over the next few weeks and won’t be around much anyway.

I hope everyone has a great Monday, or as best as a Monday can be. See you later ✌


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

Ight’, there is nothing anyone could ever say about my work methods that I would ever give 2 fcks about. I just don’t care. I do enjoy watching the youth cry about it though while drinking their white claw. 😂

just discussions is all it is to me.


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