# Food Grade Silicone - Plumber's Grease



## DUNBAR PLUMBING

I just bought enough of this product to last years, in 4oz. aluminum squeeze tubes. Dawn dish detergent along with hot water will clean off anything this product comes in contact with. 


For years, literally years (13+) I've been using this product. I started off using the regular grease that backfired instantly, would get hot in the truck during warmer climate months and make a huge mess. 

The clear silicone I'd use only for in contact with potable water, the others for threaded connections that were 'not' in contact with potable water (petroleum base, ruins O-rings and all things rubber) and over the years they've made much improvement to that product. 

When I started buying the FDA approved product in the super small containers, it was like trying to spread gelatin, spreadability was terrible and wouldn't get to the locations (thread patterns, slide patterns) to get the lubrication needed. 

This product has improved, and then last year a guy gave me a half a tube of this product he used as a vendor in the festival biz that was required/approved by the health department. It is different than the Danco product or what's sold at the supply houses, has a little more greasier texture and it will spread to anything and anywhere you need it. Made for direct contact with food, you can spray off/clean surfaces with this product on there and it will remain with its ability to serve as its function.


This was a great habit that was taught to me by a service plumber in Cincinnati Ohio that has me following this ritual continually on a daily basis, respecting the trade, the next guy, the property owner when the time comes to work on the product in the fixture and have a chance to get it loose. 


I put this on the shanks of new faucets, any threaded connections including 3/8" nuts to angle/straight stops. 

Any screw or nut assembly that has a history of coming into contact with waste or water, it goes on, down to the allen screws that hold faucet handles on. Spreading enough to fill the hole where the allen key goes into, saves headaches years from now. 

Same goes for aerators on faucets. Always.


99.99%, just like a Maury Povich show, new construction plumbers will not take the time and grease many components of faucets, shower valves, threaded connections during install because either they don't think the effort warrants the design, they don't get paid enough, or realize they won't be the ones coming back. 


How do I know this?


Because I'm the guy who ALWAYS get the brunt of this inaction when it comes time to service these fixtures on the residential and commercial level of plumbing. But whether I'm coming back or not; I set it up for owner of that product to have a chance or another plumber to avoid the knuckle busting experience, sawing off or getting out grinders to remove old plumbing parts to install new. 


It makes an incredible difference. I know this as I've spent a career of removing products that did not contain this penny's worth of lubrication that makes that first turn of a wrench a prolonged experience or a simple one. How many of you do this to brass pop up assemblies?

Don't answer; I already know. I'd give Moen top dog for credit for always supplying blister packs for their products, but it's ONLY done because their components HAVE to have that product in use, otherwise the product slowly locks up due to close tolerance of machining. Cue the removal tool made specific for the cartridges.


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## rjbphd

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> I just bought enough of this product to last years, in 4oz. aluminum squeeze tubes. Dawn dish detergent along with hot water will clean off anything this product comes in contact with.
> 
> For years, literally years (13+) I've been using this product. I started off using the regular grease that backfired instantly, would get hot in the truck during warmer climate months and make a huge mess.
> 
> The clear silicone I'd use only for in contact with potable water, the others for threaded connections that were 'not' in contact with potable water (petroleum base, ruins O-rings and all things rubber) and over the years they've made much improvement to that product.
> 
> When I started buying the FDA approved product in the super small containers, it was like trying to spread gelatin, spreadability was terrible and wouldn't get to the locations (thread patterns, slide patterns) to get the lubrication needed.
> 
> This product has improved, and then last year a guy gave me a half a tube of this product he used as a vendor in the festival biz that was required/approved by the health department. It is different than the Danco product or what's sold at the supply houses, has a little more greasier texture and it will spread to anything and anywhere you need it. Made for direct contact with food, you can spray off/clean surfaces with this product on there and it will remain with its ability to serve as its function.
> 
> This was a great habit that was taught to me by a service plumber in Cincinnati Ohio that has me following this ritual continually on a daily basis, respecting the trade, the next guy, the property owner when the time comes to work on the product in the fixture and have a chance to get it loose.
> 
> I put this on the shanks of new faucets, any threaded connections including 3/8" nuts to angle/straight stops.
> 
> Any screw or nut assembly that has a history of coming into contact with waste or water, it goes on, down to the allen screws that hold faucet handles on. Spreading enough to fill the hole where the allen key goes into, saves headaches years from now.
> 
> Same goes for aerators on faucets. Always.
> 
> 99.99%, just like a Maury Povich show, new construction plumbers will not take the time and grease many components of faucets, shower valves, threaded connections during install because either they don't think the effort warrants the design, they don't get paid enough, or realize they won't be the ones coming back.
> 
> How do I know this?
> 
> Because I'm the guy who ALWAYS get the brunt of this inaction when it comes time to service these fixtures on the residential and commercial level of plumbing. But whether I'm coming back or not; I set it up for owner of that product to have a chance or another plumber to avoid the knuckle busting experience, sawing off or getting out grinders to remove old plumbing parts to install new.
> 
> It makes an incredible difference. I know this as I've spent a career of removing products that did not contain this penny's worth of lubrication that makes that first turn of a wrench a prolonged experience or a simple one. How many of you do this to brass pop up assemblies?
> 
> Don't answer; I already know. I'd give Moen top dog for credit for always supplying blister packs for their products, but it's ONLY done because their components HAVE to have that product in use, otherwise the product slowly locks up due to close tolerance of machining. Cue the removal tool made specific for the cartridges.


You won't have any problem taking apart of any faucets or stops I've installed... yes, I greased or silicone grease everything. Was thought by a master repair plumber that specialized in two/three handles faucets 35 years ago.. I use 'slick and slide' from WB.


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## 422 plumber

That's how I roll. I use faucet grease on all threads at the industrial plants I work at. No one drinks the water, they have the 5 gallon jugs all over the place. At the commercial/institutional jobs, I use food grade silicone grease. I even grease the threads on all slip joints. 
What makes it nice is when I come back for a service call, and everything unscrews. I have been doing a lot of Moen cartridge replacements for a big property management outfit, and most times I can't get the allen set screw out of the shower handle, and even some of the machine screws won't come. 
It turns a 20 minute job into a big hassle.


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## gear junkie

422 plumber said:


> most times I can't get the allen set screw out of the shower handle, and even some of the machine screws won't come.


Never tried this but it might be worth a shot. They make screwdriver attachments for soldering guns(electronic). I asked why and the store clerk said for frozen screws....heat them up, let it cool down and it's unfrozen....sounds good in theory, lol.


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## Tommy plumber

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> I just bought enough of this product to last years, in 4oz. aluminum squeeze tubes. Dawn dish detergent along with hot water will clean off anything this product comes in contact with.
> 
> 
> For years, literally years (13+) I've been using this product. I started off using the regular grease that backfired instantly, would get hot in the truck during warmer climate months and make a huge mess.
> 
> The clear silicone I'd use only for in contact with potable water, the others for threaded connections that were 'not' in contact with potable water (petroleum base, ruins O-rings and all things rubber) and over the years they've made much improvement to that product.
> 
> When I started buying the FDA approved product in the super small containers, it was like trying to spread gelatin, spreadability was terrible and wouldn't get to the locations (thread patterns, slide patterns) to get the lubrication needed.
> 
> This product has improved, and then last year a guy gave me a half a tube of this product he used as a vendor in the festival biz that was required/approved by the health department. It is different than the Danco product or what's sold at the supply houses, has a little more greasier texture and it will spread to anything and anywhere you need it. Made for direct contact with food, you can spray off/clean surfaces with this product on there and it will remain with its ability to serve as its function.
> 
> 
> This was a great habit that was taught to me by a service plumber in Cincinnati Ohio that has me following this ritual continually on a daily basis, respecting the trade, the next guy, the property owner when the time comes to work on the product in the fixture and have a chance to get it loose.
> 
> 
> I put this on the shanks of new faucets, any threaded connections including 3/8" nuts to angle/straight stops.
> 
> Any screw or nut assembly that has a history of coming into contact with waste or water, it goes on, down to the allen screws that hold faucet handles on. Spreading enough to fill the hole where the allen key goes into, saves headaches years from now.
> 
> *Don't forget door handles.....*:laughing:
> Same goes for aerators on faucets. Always.
> 
> 
> 99.99%, just like a Maury Povich show, new construction plumbers will not take the time and grease many components of faucets, shower valves, threaded connections during install because either they don't think the effort warrants the design, they don't get paid enough, or realize they won't be the ones coming back.
> * What does Maury Povich have to do with this? I don't see the connection. Or, maybe you're going behind a handy-man, not a new constuction plumber.*
> 
> How do I know this?
> 
> 
> Because I'm the guy who ALWAYS get the brunt of this inaction when it comes time to service these fixtures on the residential and commercial level of plumbing. But whether I'm coming back or not; I set it up for owner of that product to have a chance or another plumber to avoid the knuckle busting experience, sawing off or getting out grinders to remove old plumbing parts to install new.
> 
> 
> It makes an incredible difference. I know this as I've spent a career of removing products that did not contain this penny's worth of lubrication that makes that first turn of a wrench a prolonged experience or a simple one. How many of you do this to brass pop up assemblies?
> *I do install brass p.o.'s sometimes...I hate the plastic ones.*
> Don't answer; I already know. I'd give Moen top dog for credit for always supplying blister packs for their products, but it's ONLY done because their components HAVE to have that product in use, otherwise the product slowly locks up due to close tolerance of machining. Cue the removal tool made specific for the cartridges.


 






...


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## rocksteady

I use Dow 111 food grade silicone grease. 






Paul


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## redbeardplumber

Ok. Enlighten me. I obviously don't know my greases. I was told silicone grease
Goes on threads or o-rings that are not constantly moving. Plumbers grease on moving parts. Is this correct?


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

Never again do I spend $3 like this, ever again. 

I held onto the empty containers so I can refill with a tube and save money. Only took years to finally find this product in this amount.


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## Tommy plumber

That's a whole lotta lube....:thumbsup:


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## 422 plumber

Tommy plumber said:


> That's a whole lotta lube....:thumbsup:


Isn't that a Led Zep song?


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

Should last me 5 years or longer, under $30 for what you see. Been given high praise for using this product in front of customers. 


There are plumbers/company owners on this site right now looking at these pictures that do not practice this valuable step. That's what makes you stand out in the crowd of many when you do things different than the rest. It shows you care long after the sale, that 'somebody' will be able to effectively work on the product you have your hands on, someday.


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## RW Plumbing

I use silicone grease on lots of stuff. It would probably work better than dope for o-rings and stuff. I don't know that I need an entire box full though. A little goes a long way with that stuff and one of those smaller containers lasts me a year.


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## 422 plumber

I go thru that stuff like Sherman thru Georgia! Did you buy it on line?


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

422 plumber said:


> I go thru that stuff like Sherman thru Georgia! Did you buy it on line?


 

Called them off the tube after I looked them up online. That was the minimum order yah huh 6-4oz. tubes. 

I'm sure it'd be $15 a tube otherwise...


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## rjbphd

levitdevanny said:


> I have never used this product, have no clue what it is. Since I am new, I really don't know everything here. Now you got me to research something new.


 Ya gonna be siliconed if you don't do the proper full intro..


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## ILPlumber

I do alot of work at factories with paint booths. There is no silicone anything on any of my trucks. Too much risk of contamination

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Plumbing Zone


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

Been awhile, been tracking my usage of the grease, refilled my small tin three times now. That consumable was a $3 a tin expense... which sometimes I'd slow down use by running out. 

This is the most I've used in a short period of time but every customer recognizes and appreciates the true commitment to thinking forward for the next time. You'd never install wheel bearings without grease, why would you 'not' in threaded connections in plumbing.

I like this new accessibility to keep my tool bag light.

You have to watch consumables as those numbers can climb easily.


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## suzie

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> Should last me 5 years or longer, under $30 for what you see. Been given high praise for using this product in front of customers.
> 
> 
> There are plumbers/company owners on this site right now looking at these pictures that do not practice this valuable step. That's what makes you stand out in the crowd of many when you do things different than the rest. It shows you care long after the sale, that 'somebody' will be able to effectively work on the product you have your hands on, someday.


I am now going to do this. It never occurred to me even after being at the end many times of limed up components do to our crap water


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## 422 plumber

I had to replace a Delta lav faucet the other day because of this. The aerator was plugged, and I couldn't unscrew it, I knew I was going to break it if I applied more torque. I ended up having to replace the angle stops as well. It was work, but it would have been easier easier on my body if I could have unscrewed the aerator. I really like greasing the flushometer running threads, that makes a huge difference.


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## rjbphd

I've been greasing every faucets, supply stops since I started plumbing repair.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

rjbphd said:


> I've been greasing every faucets, supply stops since I started plumbing repair.


 
I started in 2000, almost 13 years after I was into the trade. Sometimes all the difference is the smear of this product which dictates how much effort it takes for something to come apart in the future.


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## rjbphd

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> I started in 2000, almost 13 years after I was into the trade. Sometimes all the difference is the smear of this product which dictates how much effort it takes for something to come apart in the future.


Been doing way before I got into plumbing work... my dad always had that yellow Sexaur grease cans in the house and still carry one in my toolbox.


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## Olemissplumber

rjbphd said:


> Been doing way before I got into plumbing work... my dad always had that yellow Sexaur grease cans in the house and still carry one in my toolbox.


Don't you hate if the lid gets squeezed a little,makes it hard to get the top off


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## rjbphd

Olemissplumber said:


> Don't you hate if the lid gets squeezed a little,makes it hard to get the top off


Don't have enough grease on the lid of the can.


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## Olemissplumber

rjbphd said:


> Don't have enough grease on the lid of the can.


My cans are metal and if the lid gets squeezed and then put back on the can in a different position than it was bent a little bit,it makes my lid hard to remove. The tins are thin. Mine are anyway.


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## PLUMB TIME

My grease goes in the threaded bait holder they use for wax worms. No worries.

The ice fisherman will know what I'm talking about.


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## rjbphd

PLUMB TIME said:


> My grease goes in the threaded bait holder they use for wax worms. No worries.
> 
> The ice fisherman will know what I'm talking about.


Lol... extended ice fishing this year??? Isabella Mn still 3ft of snow on ground now.


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## victoryplbaz

Amen to this thread!! if I take it apart it gets greased well. I hate it when I cant get things apart like they should come apart.


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## Don The Plumber

Amen to the angle valves getting grease. I can't even turn the brand new ones very easily, before the water is even turned on to them, unless I grease the stem, on threads, packing washer , & packing nut. Then they work like they should, with ease. Can't believe Brass Craft don't put a pinch of grease on these.


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## rjbphd

Don The Plumber said:


> Amen to the angle valves getting grease. I can't even turn the brand new ones very easily, before the water is even turned on to them, unless I grease the stem, on threads, packing washer , & packing nut. Then they work like they should, with ease. Can't believe Brass Craft don't put a pinch of grease on these.


WB did it for awhile and all in the wrong place.. they would grease the washer only, not the stem... duhhhhhhh... and still doing on the brass boiler drain.


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## James420

rjbphd said:


> WB did it for awhile and all in the wrong place.. they would grease the washer only, not the stem... duhhhhhhh... and still doing on the brass boiler drain.


I wondered why they did that.


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## rjbphd

James420 said:


> I wondered why they did that.


They hire unliensced plumbers and their rejection??


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