# tap & die for shower head?



## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

Anyone know if its possible to use a tap & die to rethread a drop ear L for a shower arm? Customer apparently stripped it and doesn't want the wall opened. Figured if it was possible, someone here has done it.


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## Plumber Jim (Jun 19, 2008)

I haven't done it but you could try it. just need a 1/2" NPT tap. Not sure if it will bottom out before you finish.


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## stillaround (Mar 11, 2009)

Have you seen it yet....customer stories can be off the mark at times


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

Buy a piece of pipe and cut about 6 slots running up the pipe threads, then use that as a tap


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

Plumber Jim said:


> I haven't done it but you could try it. just need a 1/2" NPT tap. Not sure if it will bottom out before you finish.


 
I'm sure it'll bottom out. I'd try Bill's method before cutting the end off of a 1/2" tap. To me, it sounds like opening the wall is going to be cheaper than selling the customer a modified and now useless tap.




Paul


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

Bills method will work.

I used a 1 1/2 black nipple on a atmospheric vacuum breaker that had gotten buggered up in the threads. Threaded the nipple then unthreaded it and was able to thread another adapter in it.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

These work awesome, have never failed to remove a nipple. 





http://www.generich.com/grs/12-Pipe-Screw-Extractor-Proto-P2066.aspx


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## PlumberDave (Jan 4, 2009)

I'm thinking customer snapped off old arm and still threads from the old one in there. But if it is, I agree with the others and have used a sloted black nipple to chase threads.


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## Hillside (Jan 22, 2010)

Just used this yesterday on one, danco I believe......good luck


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## ToUtahNow (Jul 19, 2008)

Most pipe taps will bottom out in the back of the DE before you can chase the thread. I ground down a 1/2 pipe tap so there is very little taper left. It works great for me.

Mark


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## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

I haven't seen it yet but he says he thinks he stripped the fitting in the wall trying to put a new arm on. Thanks for the replies.


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

s-p-l-i-t......


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## sikxsevn (Jun 23, 2009)

Airgap said:


> s-p-l-i-t......


My thoughts exactly


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

Cutting open the wall will be the only real code approved fix. You could always solder a close nipple into the drop ear and then thread on a coupling. It would be ugly as sin, but you wouldn't have to cut open the wall. The liability wouldn't be worth it though.

I would cut the wall or walk.


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## masterk (Jun 20, 2008)

In a nice way let the homeowner know that the reason he called you is because he does not know. Explain to them that you have do a repair to code and your insurance company does not cover you for half a$$ repairs when something goes wrong.


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

Protech said:


> Cutting open the wall will be the only real code approved fix. You could always solder a close nipple into the drop ear and then thread on a coupling. It would be ugly as sin, but you wouldn't have to cut open the wall. The liability wouldn't be worth it though.
> 
> I would cut the wall or walk.


*It's easy to get a drop ear ell out of a wall ...*

*Take a pencil trace around the escheution. Then subtract 1/4"*
*This is your guide line to open. Take out the screws. *

*Now with a Turbo Torch [real small] heat the fitting on the inside even in the tubing if you have to. Pull off the ell when soft. Put a new one on heat it up inside flow the solder from the outside, allow it to cool before moving. Plaster up the wall ... DONE it many a time. *
*Have a bottle of water if you need it to squirt in, in case.*


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

Could be done, but VERY risky. I have seen bays with old newspaper stuffed in them, rags, etc. One hot driplet of solder when it melts out and sprays, and 3 or 4 hours of smoldering............................Not worth the risk in my book. :no: Eff that. 

Besides, the lug ell is prolly nailed, and the spikes they used are bent over the wings, anyway. 

Cut it open. Its not a big deal. Its only plaster, or sheetrock.


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## mccmech (Jul 6, 2011)

pauliplumber said:


> Anyone know if its possible to use a tap & die to rethread a drop ear L for a shower arm? Customer apparently stripped it and doesn't want the wall opened. Figured if it was possible, someone here has done it.



This I was taught & have done. Open up the shower arm hole a little, enough to unthread the screws holding the Lug L to it's brace. Apply flux to the solder joint, apply your heat inside the threads of the lug l & remove the existing. Install your new lug l & screw to the brace. your escution should be big enough around to cover up the widened hole & ya have a new fitting for the shower arm.:thumbup:


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## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=219340413&listingid=133735254


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## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

You may even want to try the spout escutcheon made by Moen that is roughly 3 inches diameter to cut the hole to remove the old drop ear


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## ptrap (Jun 19, 2010)

sharkbite drop ear elbow


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

ptrap said:


> sharkbite drop ear elbow


Oh no you didn't! :laughing :


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## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

I actually tried bills suggestion and it worked. I took an iron nipple, cut 4 slots in it, tightened it down in the drop L. Then I installed the shower arm with tape and dope, watched the joint as it ran with hot and then cold water for about 10 min with the head on, not a drop of water leaked. 

It looked like only the first 2-3 runs of thread were stripped, otherwise I would have suggested replacement. I don't think unswetting it would have been worth the risk just to save some sheetrock, maybe if it was tile. Thanks for the tip Bill !.


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

PLUMBER_BILL said:


> *It's easy to get a drop ear ell out of a wall ...*
> 
> *Take a pencil trace around the escheution. Then subtract 1/4"*
> *This is your guide line to open. Take out the screws. *
> ...


I have done just that. I have since decided that it is not worth the risk to avoid cutting open a wall. The extra labor involved adds cost that could just go toward a wall repair.

There is no way to easily put out a fire from an eschution sized hole.


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## mtfallsmikey (Jan 11, 2010)

easttexasplumb said:


> View attachment 11829
> These work awesome, have never failed to remove a nipple.
> 
> 
> ...


I've done it with that, then used a tap. The shower arm is not very thick, comes out pretty easy.


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## MikeS (Oct 3, 2011)

I have run into this problem. Shower arms are soft. I have been able to patiently use a hacksaw blade to cut two slots inside the broken shower arm towards the threads of the elbow. Then, just pry out the old arm threads with a little flatblade screwdriver and needlenose pliers. Doesn't always work, but its an option. Also, to test, I first run water without the shower head to fill the riser, shut back off, then just thread a cap on it and turn it back on. This way I don't take a shower, and a leak will be real easy to see. Of course, I'd rather just cut a hole in the back wall and replace. Just options. The slotted pipe trick does work as well, as you have discovered. Just depends on how much of that old shower arm is in there, I guess.


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## grandpa (Jul 13, 2008)

The piece hillside showed was built spefically for this. It is a combo of an EZ-out for the broken piece, and a thread chaser. Absent this specific tool, you would have to order a bottom tap.


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## MikeS (Oct 3, 2011)

grandpa said:


> The piece hillside showed was built spefically for this. It is a combo of an EZ-out for the broken piece, and a thread chaser. Absent this specific tool, you would have to order a bottom tap.


I'll be looking for one. Not real big on Danco stuff, but, I do like specialty tools. Anything to make it easier.


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## Hillside (Jan 22, 2010)

It might be pasco, I'll check if there is a name on it this week


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

For broken off shower arms I use a #7 easy out that I cut about 1/2" off the end of....

Works every time! :thumbup:


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## HOMER (Jun 5, 2011)

General Tools internal pipe wrench # 139B 

Rigid # 83 extractor tool (works for a specific guage shower arm ,used foil tape wrapped over ridges to pull thinner guage arm remnants.

1/2" blind tap (Ace ½ 14 N.P.T.)

tap hand tightened to where it bottoms out into lead free shower 90°


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## HOMER (Jun 5, 2011)

To show threads on tap inside shower el


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## Hillside (Jan 22, 2010)

ToUtahNow said:


> Most pipe taps will bottom out in the back of the DE before you can chase the thread. I ground down a 1/2 pipe tap so there is very little taper left. It works great for me.
> 
> Mark


i cut one in half also and it has saved me many times, also use it on moen cartridge bodys that are frozen to the valve body when the guts come outta the cartridge :thumbup:


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

You can always use an inside wrench


it works every time


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## Peevee (Nov 15, 2013)

Hillside said:


> Just used this yesterday on one, danco I believe......good luck


does that tap have a part number on it


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Peevee said:


> does that tap have a part number on it


 Does your name have credit card nber for us to use??? Post an intro!


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