# Hack Job # 101



## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

On a service call for a blocked main trap [inside] I found this wonderful
example of how to drain a bar sink and an automatic washer.

This was done per the owner by a complete remodeling "we do it all type" of firm.

Wait until the in-line trap blocks. How much wash water can come out of a barsink?

PS The sink and the washer are also traped.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

What a waste of perfectly good copper!


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

What's with the bucket in the background? A leaky fitting perhaps? Also, that fixture in the background, (above the bucket) there is no vent near it.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

inexperienced handyman, even a good hack would have put an AAV on that.


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## greenscoutII (Aug 27, 2008)

It looks to me like super hack connected a lav? and a washer box on a common trap through the barrel of a san tee on it's side discharging through the side inlet?


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

:whistling2:
"Can you put a TXT on this for us?" Only if I can fix the rest of it....


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## PLUMB TIME (Feb 2, 2009)

Airgap said:


> :whistling2:
> "Can you put a TXT on this for us?" Only if I can fix the rest of it....
> 
> View attachment 8845
> ...


 
I particularily like the fire stop on the elec.....:whistling2:


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

wow.......just wow.


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

Ummm...yeah, could I get a couple of those 180 degree water heater connector thingys....:whistling2:


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

The sad thing is, some plumbers who despise the copper flex connectors on a W/H are using flex connectors on everything else, like W/C's, faucets, etc. 

All this crap is killing this trade! :furious: Compression stops, 'flex' lav connectors, 'flex' W/C supplies, etc. is KILLING this profession.


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## Plumbing_Dude (Jan 19, 2011)

Tommy plumber said:


> The sad thing is, some plumbers who despise the copper flex connectors on a W/H are using flex connectors on everything else, like W/C's, faucets, etc.
> 
> All this crap is killing this trade! :furious: Compression stops, 'flex' lav connectors, 'flex' W/C supplies, etc. is KILLING this profession.


Wonder what plumbers where saying when copper came out to replace galvanized water lines. No hub and PVC replaced lead bends, galvanized waste and hubbed cast iron. Technology is always going to try and improve and speed up installation methods. As long as the products are code compliant, I don't have a problem with it. What's killing are profession is the lack of code enforcement and unlicensed plumbers stealing are work. The faster we work the more money we can make.


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

Plumbing_Dude said:


> Wonder what plumbers where saying when copper came out to replace galvanized water lines. No hub and PVC replaced lead bends, galvanized waste and hubbed cast iron. Technology is always going to try and improve and speed up installation methods. As long as the products are code compliant, I don't have a problem with it. What's killing are profession is the lack of code enforcement and unlicensed plumbers stealing are work. The faster we work the more money we can make.


You can't use the adage of "copper to replace galv". It just wont work here. Copper is a superior product, it was available when galvanized was. 

The first thing you can say that about is PVC to replace copper and cast rion drains, capeche?

Now, the faster we work, the more money we make, as long as the quality of work is up to par. Too many guys hacking shiot up, just because it goes a little quicker. It does not give you the right to install a water heater that looks like the one in the other thread.


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## DIZ (Nov 17, 2010)

how much did you get for all that scrap cu?


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## 504Plumber (Jan 26, 2011)

Tommy plumber said:


> The sad thing is, some plumbers who despise the copper flex connectors on a W/H are using flex connectors on everything else, like W/C's, faucets, etc.
> 
> All this crap is killing this trade! :furious: Compression stops, 'flex' lav connectors, 'flex' W/C supplies, etc. is KILLING this profession.


I hate to tell you but on new faucets you have no choice. Look at some of the delta's that don't have integrated supplies, how would you fit 3/8 tubing a cone washer and ring in there without them blowing out? Unless the stops are directly under the faucet you will be facing a problem soon.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Tommy plumber said:


> The sad thing is, some plumbers who despise the copper flex connectors on a W/H are using flex connectors on everything else, like W/C's, faucets, etc.
> 
> All this crap is killing this trade! :furious: Compression stops, 'flex' lav connectors, 'flex' W/C supplies, etc. is KILLING this profession.


 I'd definitely advocate using rigid supplies on W/C's and pedestal or wall hung Lavs, but if it's in a sink box, then I'm going to opt for a braided supply.

As for compression stops; I'd be curious to find out what you recommend using instead.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

504Plumber said:


> I hate to tell you but on new faucets you have no choice. Look at some of the delta's that don't have integrated supplies, how would you fit 3/8 tubing a cone washer and ring in there without them blowing out? Unless the stops are directly under the faucet you will be facing a problem soon.



Cone washer?

Friction ring?

Do they still make those things?


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## 504Plumber (Jan 26, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> Cone washer?
> 
> Friction ring?
> 
> Do they still make those things?


Lol, we have a supply house down here that doesn't even sell faucet washers, grease or cone washers.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Widdershins said:


> I'd definitely advocate using rigid supplies on W/C's and pedestal or wall hung Lavs, but if it's in a sink box, then I'm going to opt for a braided supply.
> 
> As for compression stops; I'd be curious to find out what you recommend using instead.








I use sweat stops.


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

Tommy plumber said:


> [/COLOR]
> 
> 
> 
> ...


When that sweat stop doesn't shut off anymore do you open a wall to change the valve. Seems like a inefficient way to do things if you ask me.


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## Plumbing_Dude (Jan 19, 2011)

I would just turn the water off, drain, and then unsweat the valve.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Plumbing_Dude said:


> I would just turn the water off, drain, and then unsweat the valve.


 Just so we're clear on this -- You're talking about the shiny chrome angle stops used under sinks and W/C's, right?


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## Plumbing_Dude (Jan 19, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> Just so we're clear on this -- You're talking about the shiny chrome angle stops used under sinks and W/C's, right?


Yeah


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## Plumbing_Dude (Jan 19, 2011)

Brasscraft R19 C1 to be specific


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Plumbing_Dude said:


> Brasscraft R19 C1 to be specific


Ok.

Any particular reason why you favor those over 1/4 turn compression angle stops?


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## Plumbing_Dude (Jan 19, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> Ok.
> 
> Any particular reason why you favor those over 1/4 turn compression angle stops?


No I prefer 1/4 turn compression stops also. I was just making the point you don't need to open a wall up to change a sweat stop.


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

Widdershins said:


> Ok.
> 
> Any particular reason why you favor those over 1/4 turn compression angle stops?


Had 2 of them fail. 5/8" nut split. ( Not my original install.)


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Plumbing_Dude said:


> No I prefer 1/4 turn compression stops also. I was just making the point you don't need to open a wall up to change a sweat stop.


 You're right, you don't need to open up the wall -- You just buy another R19 and swap out the parts.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

RealLivePlumber said:


> Had 2 of them fail. 5/8" nut split. ( Not my original install.)


 The only time I ever saw that happen was when the installer put teflon tape on either the ferrule or the threads or both.


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## Plumbing_Dude (Jan 19, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> You're right, you don't need to open up the wall -- You just buy another R19 and swap out the parts.


It was suggested by someone else that it might be necessary to open up a wall to change out stop. I agree swapping out parts would work just fine. A lot of the work our shop does is replacing valves in high rise buildings, we are required to replace the whole valve, not just the guts.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

RealLivePlumber said:


> Had 2 of them fail. 5/8" nut split. ( Not my original install.)





Plumbing_Dude said:


> It was suggested by someone else that it might be necessary to open up a wall to change out stop. I agree swapping out parts would work just fine. A lot of the work our shop does is replacing valves in high rise buildings, we are required to replace the whole valve, not just the guts.



Yikes!!!!


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Plumbing_Dude said:


> It was suggested by someone else that it might be necessary to open up a wall to change out stop. I agree swapping out parts would work just fine. A lot of the work our shop does is replacing valves in high rise buildings, we are required to replace the whole valve, not just the guts.


 



Maybe a blind handy-man might suggest to open a wall to replace a sweat stop, but certainly no plumber would suggest that.

Comp. stops on occasion blow off; it's rare but it happens. After an angle stop is soldered on, it will never blow off, it looks more professional and most important, the HO will probably not ever try to replace it in the future. If plumbers make the install or repair as difficult as possible (ie: sweat stop, rough-brass of chrome ridgid supply lines) then a handy man may not want to touch it in the future.


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## Plumbing_Dude (Jan 19, 2011)

RW Plumbing said:


> When that sweat stop doesn't shut off anymore do you open a wall to change the valve. Seems like a inefficient way to do things if you ask me.


This was the post I was referring too.


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## smoldrn (Oct 4, 2010)

Had to go on a call recently to fix a chrome WC supply. Another plumber had installed it (per the HO's request). Around these parts, bending a metal supply is a lost art. These boys don't even use the pex supplies, just braided or the white flex ones.


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## smoldrn (Oct 4, 2010)

I still like my sweat R-19's, just wish I could buy a decent chrome escutcheon that doesn't rust 3o min after it's installed.


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## ranman (Jan 24, 2010)

use chrome plastic split escutcheon they stay nice




smoldrn said:


> I still like my sweat R-19's, just wish I could buy a decent chrome escutcheon that doesn't rust 3o min after it's installed.


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

airgap said:


> :whistling2:
> "can you put a txt on this for us?" only if i can fix the rest of it....
> 
> View attachment 8845
> ...


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