# Heat pump water heater installation



## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

This was my first one. Here's a pic of the old heater.










Here's the new one, before I insulated the pipes. 










Holy crap the thing is tall! 80 gallon water heater in a 2 1/2 bath townhouse, but that's what she wants. It puts out some nice cool air too.

The bad part of the job was that she has PEX coming out of the wall, and it was at a funky angle, and then of course getting the damn thing in the garage. Major heavy, the crated weight was like 410 lbs.

The old copper work was SO bad, big nasty globs of solder all over the place, and a pile of solder on top of the heater. Definite piece-work job. No wiped joints, M copper, ugly work. The new stuff is much cleaner. The old gate valve was shot, all it did was spin. New ball valve, pretty & shiny!

The heater is in the garage, 5 steps below the occupied space, so no drain pain was required. No disconnect either, since the electrical panel is only a few feet away in the garage.


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

Nice piece of AO Smith Crap


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## gitnerdun (Nov 5, 2008)

Is there a condensate drain on that somewhere?


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## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

gitnerdun said:


> Is there a condensate drain on that somewhere?



Yup. You can see them in this photo.


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

no need for a vacuum breaker being side feed?

Of course this is Florida.

*504.2 Vacuum relief valve.* Bottom fed water heaters and bottom fed tanks connected to water heaters shall have a vacuum relief valve installed. The vacuum relief valve shall comply with ANSI Z21.22.


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## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

Inspector didn't say he wanted one and I didn't see one on the piping diagram...but I'll have to check it again.


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

plus we cant set heater directly on garage floor. Once again this is Florida


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## marc76075 (Nov 24, 2010)

In your area is there no requirement for a thermal expansion tank?


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## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

Garage floor is 4' below the occupied space, so no need for a drain pan.

There's an expansion tank on the water main as it enters the home, under the crawlspace. It's fairly common here to have them in the crawlspace, instead of by the water heater. It's much easier to support the expansion tank from the joists. instead of relying on the copper pipe on the water heater to hold it up.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

hroark2112 said:


> Garage floor is 4' below the occupied space, so no need for a drain pan.
> 
> *There's an expansion tank on the water main as it enters the home, under the crawlspace.* It's fairly common here to have them in the crawlspace, instead of by the water heater. It's much easier to support the expansion tank from the joists. instead of relying on the copper pipe on the water heater to hold it up.


Doesn't the valve on the cold intet to the water heater serve as a means of isolation between the water heater and the expansion tank creating a code violation?


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## DIZ (Nov 17, 2010)

what a gorgeous piece of crap!


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## Bayside500 (May 16, 2009)

DIZ said:


> what a gorgeous piece of crap!


why does everyone say those heaters are crap, do they really not work as advertised ?

i have never seen one so i am clueless on them .


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## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

Redwood said:


> Doesn't the valve on the cold intet to the water heater serve as a means of isolation between the water heater and the expansion tank creating a code violation?


Probably, but it's an approved installation here. It's about 50/50 around here, half installed on one side of the valve, half on the other. I guess they figure that most people aren't going to leave the heater on with the valve shut.

I see lots of new homes with valves on the line to the tank, allowing you to change the expansion tank without shutting anything else off in the house. That seems much more potentially problematic to me, since you can leave that valve shut off and you still have water to everything else in the house.


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

hroark2112 said:


> Garage floor is 4' below the occupied space, so no need for a drain pan.
> 
> There's an expansion tank on the water main as it enters the home, under the crawlspace. It's fairly common here to have them in the crawlspace, instead of by the water heater. It's much easier to support the expansion tank from the joists. instead of relying on the copper pipe on the water heater to hold it up.


 
To clear things up, I didn't mean a pan. I meant like setting it on like bricks, pavers, pieces of tile. Maybe it's something they enforce in my area only but the heater can't sit directly on the concrete floor.


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## sikxsevn (Jun 23, 2009)

house plumber said:


> To clear things up, I didn't mean a pan. I meant like setting it on like bricks, pavers, pieces of tile. Maybe it's something they enforce in my area only but the heater can't sit directly on the concrete floor.


Concrete is slightly alkaline, and could cause corrosion if you set the heater directly on it. Makes sense, though it's not a code requirement here

In this area that T&P would be a red tag, it has to terminate either into a hub drain or outside the building


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

house plumber said:


> plus we cant set heater directly on garage floor. Once again this is Florida


Huh? Since when? Code citation please.


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

Protech said:


> Huh? Since when? Code citation please.


thats why I said my area. Code book though says refer to manufacture specs.

I think they said it's about if water gets on the floor it's not sitting in it.


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

this is from the bradford white install guide. 

To comply with NSF requirements this water heater is to be:
a) Sealed to the floor with sealant, in a smooth and easily cleanable
way, or
b) Installed with an optional leg kit that includes legs and/or extensions​that provide a minimum clearance of 6” beneath the water heater

And this is our code.


*502.3 Water heaters installed in garages.* Water heaters shall be installed in accordance with the manufacturer's installation instructions, which shall be available on the job site at the time of inspection.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

house plumber said:


> *this is from the bradford white install guide.*
> 
> To comply with NSF requirements this water heater is to be:
> a) Sealed to the floor with sealant, in a smooth and easily cleanable
> ...


Maybe you would want to quote something from this instead...

http://www.hotwater.com/Resources/L...lectric/Voltex-Hybrid-Electric-Manual-318257/


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

Redwood said:


> Maybe you would want to quote something from this instead...
> 
> http://www.hotwater.com/Resources/L...lectric/Voltex-Hybrid-Electric-Manual-318257/


 
why? I picked bw because evryone here seems to love them


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

You didn't do a very good job of following the manufacturers suggested instructions regarding clearances......

Course, they seem to really limit the places they can be installed.


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

house plumber said:


> To clear things up, I didn't mean a pan. I meant like setting it on like bricks, pavers, pieces of tile. Maybe it's something they enforce in my area only but the heater can't sit directly on the concrete floor.


I cut 3" or 4" PVC into pieces 4" long and use them as feet for my wh's. Usually have enough scrap laying around and cuts down on waste.....


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

Airgap said:


> I cut 3" or 4" PVC into pieces 4" long and use them as feet for my wh's. Usually have enough scrap laying around and cuts down on waste.....


we used to do that then there was a rumor that a heater in a pan relief popped and melted a pvc foot. the heater then tipped and ripped the copper apart and flooded the house. Since then inspectors only allow bricks, pavers or tile. I don't know if it's true or not. But that's the rumor.


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

house plumber said:


> we used to do that then there was a rumor that a heater in a pan relief popped and melted a pvc foot. the heater then tipped and ripped the copper apart and flooded the house. Since then inspectors only allow bricks, pavers or tile. I don't know if it's true or not. But that's the rumor.


Hadn't thought or heard about that....:blink: I hope the inspectors around here don't either.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

In Texas it's code to put water heater on a stand when installed in a garage... The idea is that it is a point of ignition for gas, exhaust, oil or any other flammable elements in that area.... And you must run the t&p outside and terminate 6 in above grade or to floor or hub drain.


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## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

If it were a gas water heater it would be on a stand.

The T&P would have been run outside if the heater were on the same level as the occupied space, but since it's below, it's approved.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Just different codes I guess. We require a stand gas or electric. It looks good tho.


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## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

I'm out of practice, it took me a lot longer than it should have. Of course, I had a helper helping for his first time, so that was fun too.

I've been a Project Manager for the last 8 years, so doing actual work again is a transition.


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