# switching to a sectional machine



## Plantificus (Sep 17, 2009)

I currently use a ridgid k7500 drum style machine and I'll be switching to a k1500 A frame. I've never used a sectional before, any tips?


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

Plantificus said:


> I currently use a ridgid k7500 drum style machine and I'll be switching to a k1500 A frame. I've never used a sectional before, any tips?



Why the switch to such a large/powerful sectional machine ?


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## Plantificus (Sep 17, 2009)

I know a couple of guys that use them, their call back rate is lower than mine (clears roots better). Also its nice to be able to replace 15 ft sections of cable rather than a 100 ft (or risk splicing) when you get a bad kink.


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## Magic Touch III (Dec 27, 2010)

*Switching to a sectional*

I also have a K1500A....I like this machine very much....The best tip I could give you is to make sure you lubricate the male ends of the cable and to be sure they click in and lock when your connecting cable sections together...I also run water into the line as I pull out as that helps to clean the cable off...There is also a grease fitting inside the machine near the chutch handle...its hard to see..I keep that greased up too...Tom


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

Plantificus said:


> I know a couple of guys that use them, their call back rate is lower than mine (clears roots better). Also its nice to be able to replace 15 ft sections of cable rather than a 100 ft (or risk splicing) when you get a bad kink.



Seems like overkill to me ??? But then again I'm not familiar with the types of jobs your doing day in and day out. I think that if used properly a lesser machine would do the same job clearing the line 90%+ of the time, although It would come in handy on the BIG/TOUGH root jobs.

I run 25' sections in my drum machine.


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## Plantificus (Sep 17, 2009)

AssTyme said:


> Seems like overkill to me ??? But then again I'm not familiar with the types of jobs your doing day in and day out. I think that if used properly a lesser machine would do the same job clearing the line 90%+ of the time, although It would come in handy on the BIG/TOUGH root jobs.
> 
> I run 25' sections in my drum machine.



you're probably right, technique has a lot to do with it.. I guess my rational is that the larger machine can handle the crazy situations as well as the normal situations.


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## ToUtahNow (Jul 19, 2008)

I have always been a fan of multiple machines on a truck so you are using the right machine for the job rather than just using what happens to be on the truck. Because of this our go back rate on drains were almost non-existent.

The K-1500 is probably one of the most efficient drain cleaning machines there is for main line stoppages. More than just the power available is the design of the cable which allows the entire length of the cable to clean as well.

Mark


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

The 1500 is a great machine. There are a couple of things that you need to know.

1. Buy the machine and cable separate.
2. Get C-14 cable...not the C-11 that comes with the kit.
3. Get a minimum of 12 (180') sections (with 3 baskets). A fourth basket of 60' if you can afford it.
4. NEVER use the straight auger from Ridgid. In rare instances, the funnel and straight augers might help retrieve something but it is VERY rare. I don't remember ever really needing them in the last 20 years.
5. Buy one extra C-14 cable and cut it off about 24" or more from the female end. Bend it slightly at the end and use that for your whip.
6. The only other heads you would normally need with the 1500 would be T-50-1 "C" cutter for 3" & 4" pipe, T-50-2 "C" cutter for 6" pipe.
7. NEVER use the machine without a guide hose. Over time, you will damage the shaft. You could buy an extra guide hose bracket and clamp it on a piece of 1-1/2" PVC. Sometimes this is preferable to the hose and takes up less space but NEVER run cable without something hanging on the back. That shaft costs over $400 to replace.
8. Always use Ridgid's mitt.
9. Let the machine do the work. Don't force the cable and always be mindful of the cable's tendency to feed in and out based on the direction it is spinning.
10. In general, always run the machine in forward. Reverse will allow the cable to drill into a root mass or through the wall of the pipe which results in an Excedrin moment.
11. Use reverse to pop past a fitting or rough spot but be cautious.
12. Pull the cable back and forth as you go in to be sure it is spinning free and not hung up. This is until you get a feel for it. After a while, you'll be able to feel trouble before it is too late.

All in all, probably one of the best and toughest main line sewer machines on the market.


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## ToUtahNow (Jul 19, 2008)

plbgbiz said:


> The 1500 is a great machine. There are a couple of things that you need to know.
> 
> 1. Buy the machine and cable separate.
> 2. Get C-14 cable...not the C-11 that comes with the kit.
> ...


Great assessment!

Mark


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

All we use for outside drain cleaning is the K1500. 

I do disagree with some of the above statements. On an unfamiliar sewer, I use the T1 straight auger in the line first. It gives you an idea of the problem. Then, I will use either the T3 funnel cutter, most of the time, or the T9 grease cutter. 

I use the T50 series sharktooth cutter on clay lines with roots. They wear out way fast on cast iron, so I usually use the grase cutter on cast iron. 

And I do not get callbacks. Period.

(course, I'll prolly have 5 tomorrow,:laughing

Oh yeah, I have never needed more than 135' of cable. If I ever do, I will install a cleanout in the line. Too much risk, too much money in the pipe if something happens. I can see it now, my guy would call from a 60' sewer, telling me he can't understand why it isn't open, with 300' of cable in it. It would either be a big ball in the main, or septic tank, or wrapped around a customers bedspread. :yes:


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

RealLivePlumber said:


> ...I use the T1 straight auger in the line first. It gives you an idea of the problem....


The main reason I don't use the auger from Ridgid is they are wound in the opposite direction of the cable. So if it gets outside the pipe with the machine in forward, it will continue to drill in. Then when you reverse the machine, the cable will be trying to drill in when your trying to get the auger to unscrew. Using a piece of cable as a whip means it is all either going in or coming out...not both at the same time. Of course not drilling out of the pipe solves the issue too. :yes:


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## gitnerdun (Nov 5, 2008)

And be sure to tie that thing down in the truck! Memories of it flying forward when I hit the brakes, yikes!


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

I've never needed anything bigger than a k-60 on residential and light comercial. Unless you frequently need to get in 6" lines, there is really no need to get a machine (k-1500) with more weight/space and less versatility.


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

*Kudos to a friend ... Competior who needed help!*



plbgbiz said:


> The 1500 is a great machine. <SNIP>
> 
> 
> Friend Al called one day asked if he could borrow my Kollman 1500 [It has been here a long time]. I said sure is your Ridgid down for repairs?
> ...


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## Plantificus (Sep 17, 2009)

Protech said:


> I've never needed anything bigger than a k-60 on residential and light comercial. Unless you frequently need to get in 6" lines, there is really no need to get a machine (k-1500) with more weight/space and less versatility.


yea its all 6-8in clay sewers over here, we got a guy that has the k-60, he said it doesn't have the umph needed, but it is smaller and he doesn't clean many drains these days anyway


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## JK949 (Mar 18, 2009)

AssTyme said:


> Seems like overkill to me ??? But then again I'm not familiar with the types of jobs your doing day in and day out. I think that if used properly a lesser machine would do the same job clearing the line 90%+ of the time, although It would come in handy on the BIG/TOUGH root jobs.
> 
> I run 25' sections in my drum machine.



My co-workers think running smaller sections is a liability. I'm not convinced, have you ever lost a section in a pipe?


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

JK949 said:


> My co-workers think running smaller sections is a liability. I'm not convinced, have you ever lost a section in a pipe?



Not yet, knocking on wood


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## ToUtahNow (Jul 19, 2008)

verlandavis said:


> There is also a universal guide hose that helps protect floors and such from the cable that i recommend, Its called the***.. I think it's the***.com


 
Interesting. Last week when you posted on the Ridgid Forum you knew exactly what the web address was.


*verlandavis **







*
*Banned*
*Occupation: **plumber*
*Location: **ventura*
*Join Date: Apr 2011*
*Posts: 0 *
*Nominated 0 Times in 0 Posts*
*Thread of the Week Award(s): 0*
*







**Re: K-60 Guide Hose*​ 
*let me give the right link,http://www.NOT.com , this is a very universal tool!! I'm the inventor and just wanted to make ur job easier! I also have several accessories that will be available shortly!!*​ 

I don't know if your product is great or not but at least be honest.

Mark


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

ToUtahNow said:


> ...I don't know if your product is great or not but at least be honest.


Exactly.

You'd think an inventor would know his own web address. Maybe you should have read this first:

http://www.plumbingzone.com/faq.php?faq=plumbing_zone_faqs#faq_adrules


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## 3Peasdrain (Feb 5, 2010)

*changing machines*

If you want the job done right then buy an electric eel model c machine best sectional machine made:thumbup:


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

I second that:thumbsup:. I'm loving my Model C. The Cables are at a higher level in quality, and I can't imaging using a cable that doesn't self feed. The Eel is easier to use than a lawn mower, and if space is a issue than I hook the cable up to a drill and let it rip. I've even used the Eel cable on the roof with the drill. Realy not much a Electric Eel Model C with the 1.25 and 7/8 cable can't handle.


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## AssTyme (May 15, 2010)

Will said:


> I second that:thumbsup:. I'm loving my Model C. The Cables are at a higher level in quality, and I can't imaging using a cable that doesn't self feed. The Eel is easier to use than a lawn mower, and if space is a issue than I hook the cable up to a drill and let it rip. I've even used the Eel cable on the roof with the drill. Realy not much a Electric Eel Model C with the 1.25 and 7/8 cable can't handle.




Other brand 1.25" cables don't self feed ?


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

You'd have to get some feed back from the Ridgid guys, I'm not 100% sure. I was under the impression you have to hand feed it in and hand feed it out. Electric Eel and General Cable will feed itself.


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## HOT H2O (Sep 23, 2011)

JK949 said:


> My co-workers think running smaller sections is a liability. I'm not convinced, have you ever lost a section in a pipe?



Time for a story....
I had about 45' of 7/8" cable (K60) in a Sanitary line under the parking garage at a hotel I service. Felt the blockage and tried to go back and forth, but eventually I couldn't do either. The cable was stuck in whatever was causing the blockage. I brought in my other K60 to double up , but still couldn't budge the cables. In a moment of panic, I hooked then up to the service truck and put it in drive. The cables stretched like a spring and popped. I now have about 30' lost in the pipe and the blockage hasn't given at all. 

Had to put a camera in the line and locate the blockage. Turns out there was a section of grease line from the kitchen that didn't run thru the interceptor. On a 6" line we found a backpitched 45, with about 20" of solid grease, some forks , knives , spoons , a full Mason jar , some ramekins , etc... The cables were entangled in the silverware which was locked into the grease.

We had to cut the floor to remove the cables and repair the backpitch. Also added a floor C/O to the section. They still have not approved me to reroute the grease line to the interceptor. So I'm certain I'll be back in there again some day. That was the only time in 20+ years that I've lost a cable.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

HOT H2O said:


> ............... On a 6" line we found a backpitched 45, with about 20" of solid grease, some forks , knives , spoons , a full Mason jar , some ramekins , etc... The cables were entangled in the silverware which was locked into the grease.
> ................That was the only time in 20+ years that I've lost a cable.


Naw buddy, you didn't lose a cable, the cable was taken from you. No one could be expected to snake that, not knowing what was in there, and not lose a cable. Extenuating circumstances.

I've broken two toilets. And then there was a toilet that happened to break when I was removing it from the wall because someone used a whole tube of PL adhesive behind it. No way it was coming off in one piece for anybody, thus I didn't break it.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

HOT H2O said:


> Time for a story....
> I had about 45' of 7/8" cable (K60) in a Sanitary line under the parking garage at a hotel I service. Felt the blockage and tried to go back and forth, but eventually I couldn't do either. The cable was stuck in whatever was causing the blockage. I brought in my other K60 to double up , but still couldn't budge the cables. In a moment of panic, I hooked then up to the service truck and put it in drive. The cables stretched like a spring and popped. I now have about 30' lost in the pipe and the blockage hasn't given at all.
> 
> Had to put a camera in the line and locate the blockage. Turns out there was a section of grease line from the kitchen that didn't run thru the interceptor. On a 6" line we found a backpitched 45, with about 20" of solid grease, some forks , knives , spoons , a full Mason jar , some ramekins , etc... The cables were entangled in the silverware which was locked into the grease.
> ...


Did they pay you to cut the floor dig it out and repair the line and remove cables??or did they say it's your baby,you got it stuck you get it out


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## HOT H2O (Sep 23, 2011)

sparky said:


> Did they pay you to cut the floor dig it out and repair the line and remove cables??or did they say it's your baby,you got it stuck you get it out


Yeah , they paid.... I'm there about 3 times a week. Never have a problem getting paid. Every 30 days like clockwork.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

HOT H2O said:


> Yeah , they paid.... I'm there about 3 times a week. Never have a problem getting paid. Every 30 days like clockwork.


I always make the manager sign a contract stating that unless we installed the plumbing there is no way to know if done by code therefore should cable become stuck or seized in the pipe it is the homeowner Or company representative responsibility to pay any and all charges necessary to free the cable


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