# Fluidmaster Pro45B defects



## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

So I've had 2 valves leak at the tank gasket in 2 months. 

I'm standing here waiting on this valve to make sure a slow drip doesn't show up and I decided to examine the defective one while I wait. It looks like the casting flash on the bottom of the valve's flange is cutting into the gasket. I just cut the casting flash off and reinstalled with a new gasket. I'll post some pics when I get home this evening.

Keep an eye out for this problem.

(sent from my droid x)


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## Cal (Jun 17, 2008)

I liked 'em for a while ,,, but i'm going back to the old plastic ones . If the entire thing was brass ,,, then i'd be happy but after having SEVERAL leak ,,, sorry and Goodbye


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

I think they should just stop trying to improve the 400A.

Had a couple of Pro-45's leak myself and stopped using them...

That Leak Sentry they came out with was pure junk...

I'll stick with what works...


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Hey Red, I thought you used the Wolverine Brass ballcocks with the copper float balls. Then you can justify $ 500.00 for a minor tank re-build. And if you use a brass flush valve, then you can charge $ 700.00 for a major tank re-build. :laughing:


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Tommy plumber said:


> Hey Red, I thought you used the Wolverine Brass ballcocks with the copper float balls. Then you can justify $ 500.00 for a minor tank re-build. And if you use a brass flush valve, then you can charge $ 700.00 for a major tank re-build. :laughing:


No I prefer to nail them for labor, parts cut into profit...:laughing:


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

I've had problems with the Pro45 and the 400A. I've started using these, had good luck so far.


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## plumbpro (Mar 10, 2010)

Will said:


> I've had problems with the Pro45 and the 400A. I've started using these, had good luck so far.


What problem have you had with the 400a.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

never shuts off completely. runs on it's own, even if the flapper, overflow, etc is fine. I've had more luck with the Pro45B than I have with the 400A


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## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

Recently I've had several pro 45's leak by from the red cap. I hate manufacturer defects.:furious::furious::furious:

I'll give them the benefit of the doubt, I must have installed a 1000 400a's over the years without a defect. Maybe a bad batch.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

I've never had much trouble with the 400A with being defective out of the box.


I never jumped on the bandwagon for any of the others, just because I had no reason to go to brass. I'd rather have plastic on plastic than plastic on brass.

Think about it; it's a female adaptor onto a male brass shank. Which one do you think is going to contract and expand. 


I used to be able to get 400A's for $4.62 a fill valve but now the norm is $6.49... I don't care if it's $ 8.99; I'm charging $10 for that valve if I bring it and install it.

If the margin is small on the high purchase price from a mom&pop hardware, I'll make it up somewhere else on the ticket.


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## DownHill (Oct 15, 2010)

Pulled 3 Fluidmasters this year with a hairline fracture on the plastic shank & not very old. 

Went to the brass shank. Zero problems.


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## stillaround (Mar 11, 2009)

DownHill said:


> Pulled 3 Fluidmasters this year with a hairline fracture on the plastic shank & not very old.
> 
> Went to the brass shank. Zero problems.


 Ive had that happen , but they were older ones...


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

DownHill said:


> Pulled 3 Fluidmasters this year with a hairline fracture on the plastic shank & not very old.
> 
> Went to the brass shank. Zero problems.


Maybe a bigger pair of channel locks would help....:whistling2:


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## DownHill (Oct 15, 2010)

Redwood said:


> Maybe a bigger pair of channel locks would help....:whistling2:


Maybe you shouldn't make the incorrect assumption that the hairline cracked valves were installed by me. :whistling2:

None were. Changed to the brass shank because I started seeing this. 

This ain't my first rodeo.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

DownHill said:


> Maybe you shouldn't make the incorrect assumption that the hairline cracked valves were installed by me. :whistling2:
> 
> None were. Changed to the brass shank because I started seeing this.
> 
> This ain't my first rodeo.


Sheesh take it easy...:laughing:

I'm Just Saying....
When you talk about cracking on a plastic shanked 400A it was overtightened...

Look for a new product coming out soon with a torque limiting nut to prevent over-tightening. Contractor Magazine had a survey recently on a product with these. I stated it was a great gimmick for DIYers and as a plumber I was not interested in it....:laughing:


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## DownHill (Oct 15, 2010)

Redwood said:


> Sheesh take it easy...:laughing:
> 
> I'm Just Saying....
> *When you talk about cracking on a plastic shanked 400A it was overtightened...
> ...


I would tend to agree...but....

One of the plastic ones I removed had a flex supply connected I removed with my hand. :blink:

Also been to many with the supply nut broken around the circumference as I'm sure others have. And rare, but a mounting nut or two. 

I don't know why we all tolerate this plastic connection. While I know there are millions of installations, seems it still should be brass shank, mounting nut, supply nut.

Most good plumbers I know would consider a plastic shank faucet with plastic supply nuts garbage. Yet we lend a blind eye to this.


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

Most supply houses stock toilet supplies with brass nuts.

A bras but on a brass shank is bullet proof.

Now if they could only cast a decent plastic flange on the bottom of the valve. I dunno why they don't just cast the flange in brass too and make the transition to plastic above the flange........



DownHill said:


> I would tend to agree...but....
> 
> One of the plastic ones I removed had a flex supply connected I removed with my hand. :blink:
> 
> ...


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## Associated Plum (Nov 4, 2008)

Tommy plumber said:


> Hey Red, I thought you used the Wolverine Brass ballcocks with the copper float balls. Then you can justify $ 500.00 for a minor tank re-build. And if you use a brass flush valve, then you can charge $ 700.00 for a major tank re-build. :laughing:


No! That would be us  and the WB ballcocks wont work in some of the one piece water closets


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

DownHill said:


> I would tend to agree...but....
> 
> One of the plastic ones I removed had a flex supply connected I removed with my hand. :blink:
> 
> ...


I always just tighten them by hand....but then again, my hand tight ain't the same as most....


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## stillaround (Mar 11, 2009)

Redwood said:


> Maybe a bigger pair of channel locks would help....:whistling2:


After the several split drops ears I went thru.....as much as I would like to blame product....a little more sensitive on the wrench could save some real money......


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## stillaround (Mar 11, 2009)

Airgap said:


> I always just tighten them by hand....but then again, my hand tight ain't the same as most....


 My hand used to be that way..


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## Cal (Jun 17, 2008)

Protech said:


> Most supply houses stock toilet supplies with brass nuts.
> 
> A bras but on a brass shank is bullet proof.
> 
> Now if they could only cast a decent plastic flange on the bottom of the valve. I dunno why they don't just cast the flange in brass too and make the transition to plastic above the flange........


 I'm with Pro on this . Used Pro45B AND metal nut connectors but the problems have been were the brass is molded with the plastic . 

Damn ,


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## plumbpro (Mar 10, 2010)

Airgap said:


> I always just tighten them by hand....but then again, my hand tight ain't the same as most....


My hands have enough calises on them that they are about like channel locks


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

plumbpro said:


> My hands have enough calises on them that they are about like channel locks


I like going behind guys on compression nuts, etc. "I put channellocks on it" Well, it's still leaking. Then get a quarter turn by hand.....:whistling2:


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

Protech said:


> So I've had 2 valves leak at the tank gasket in 2 months.
> 
> I'm standing here waiting on this valve to make sure a slow drip doesn't show up and I decided to examine the defective one while I wait. It looks like the casting flash on the bottom of the valve's flange is cutting into the gasket. I just cut the casting flash off and reinstalled with a new gasket. I'll post some pics when I get home this evening.
> 
> ...


 
same problem, so I returned to the customers house tightned up on the white plastic nut and waited about 15 min, 

no drip, so I leave and everybody is happy 

customers called back today , its still leakin 

now im done with Pro45b's


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## ap plumbing (Nov 9, 2010)

*don't blame me*

:laughing:


Redwood said:


> Sheesh take it easy...:laughing:
> 
> I'm Just Saying....
> When you talk about cracking on a plastic shanked 400A it was overtightened...
> ...


 I myself finger tight those fill valves, :thumbsup: i do put alittle pressure on the valve then finger tight them , so i know i didn't crack 'em :laughing:


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