# Pre slop shower pan liner



## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

Yesterday we were informed by our new inspectors that we have to pre slope the shower floors prior to installing the shower pan liners. Im looking for ideas on how any of you guys are doing this. I have some idea but who has found easy or best ways to do this. Are you setting the drain flush with the floor or keeping it up 1/4"? Does anyone have a video or pictures? I thought there was a thread on here already about this but i wasn't able to find it. Any info would be appreciated. What type of sand mix or mortar are you using? Are you using trials or boards? What works best. Thanks


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Here's a thread I started showing the steps I take. Boss still won't get the slope system Letterrip posted about or bother with the shluter kerdi system. http://www.plumbingzone.com/showthread.php?t=34473


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

I don't set the drains flush with the floor. On a wood subfloor, i just cut the hole big enough to fit the 4 nubs (where the bolts for the plate are) on the bottom of the drain body to fit through. That makes the drain body sit up about 1/4". I'll lay plastic down to protect the wood subfloor and tape it down around the hole.

The first floor showers we sand box out the drain during the rough. If it isn't a dropped shower, then I put the drain about 1/4" up so I get a good amount of concrete under it.

We usually just use Quikcrete sandmix, but just this week I had to use a different brand from Moore's supply and I liked it better. It had finer sand particles and it seemed to have more portland cement in it. I had to mix it up more soupy than how I mix the quikcrete brand stuff but it still held it's shape and didn't slump like I though it would being so soupy. It worked really good at like a playdough like consistency.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Depending on the size of the shower, i either use my 2' level to scrape the slope I need or I'll use my trowel with torpedo level to scrape the slope.

There are probably tools made for what I do, but what I use works for me.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Michaelcookplum said:


> Yesterday we were informed by our new inspectors that we have to pre slope the shower floors prior to installing the shower pan liners. Im looking for ideas on how any of you guys are doing this. I have some idea but who has found easy or best ways to do this. Are you setting the drain flush with the floor or keeping it up 1/4"? Does anyone have a video or pictures? I thought there was a thread on here already about this but i wasn't able to find it. Any info would be appreciated. What type of sand mix or mortar are you using? Are you using trials or boards? What works best. Thanks












The inspectors are only about {10} years behind.....:laughing:


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## SchmitzPlumbing (May 5, 2014)

i refuse to do the pre pitch or rubber membrane. its the tile guys job. i supply the drain. when a pan floods and fails or it leaks, its their problem.


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## czplumbing (Nov 24, 2014)

I let either tile Guy pitch with mud after I set drain, or the contractor pitch it. I've seen carpenters use wood shingles or a combo of shingles then 1/4 ply on top with stainless staples . Then I always lay down some 30 lbs tar paper to protect from the wood surface then I'll do the pan over that never have had a problem . Do you use pre made corners?


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

It really was fairly easy, I bought the correct product and a helper and myself mixed and poured 7x4 pan in about an hour. I used Quikrete sand/topping mix. All I had to do was add a little water and I packed it in. Left side which I did first was too wet. I figured out the dryer the better. It wasn't perfect but it has the proper slope. A more square pan would have been a lot easier the first go around. Thanks for the help


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Looks good. Did you put plastic on the wood subfloor to protect it from the concrete/water? That would be my only suggestion that i can see.


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## Nathan901 (Feb 11, 2012)

On wood floors I like to screw down 1/4 inch cement board and float on that. 
Bare wood absorbs the moisture from the Crete


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Michaelcookplum said:


> It really was fairly easy, I bought the correct product and a helper and myself mixed and poured 7x4 pan in about an hour. I used Quikrete sand/topping mix. All I had to do was add a little water and I packed it in. Left side which I did first was too wet. I figured out the dryer the better. It wasn't perfect but it has the proper slope. A more square pan would have been a lot easier the first go around. Thanks for the help
> 
> 
> View attachment 64330


 








Is there a shw. pan liner that gets installed on top of the cement?


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

Tommy yes the liner will go on top, and I stapled down roofing paper on the wood first and rolled it up 11/2" all the way around. By doing that it gave me an even starting point all the way around. I installed the paper a little higher at first then ran my razor knife around the bottom plate of the framing. It worked out alright


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

That's a tile guys job, go put some pipes in


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

SchmitzPlumbing said:


> i refuse to do the pre pitch or rubber membrane. its the tile guys job. i supply the drain. when a pan floods and fails or it leaks, its their problem.


Differs from State to State. In Illinois the shower drain and membrane are required to be installed by the Licensed Plumber. I always have plumbers whining about this installation. Then the tile guy can take over.


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## BOBBYTUCSON (Feb 8, 2013)

GAN said:


> Differs from State to State. In Illinois the shower drain and membrane are required to be installed by the Licensed Plumber. I always have plumbers whining about this installation. Then the tile guy can take over.



im the same way . but sometimes , the tile/remodelers that refuse to do it also , end up paying me to do it. so its 50-50 for me. but i always try throwing it to them first


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

BOBBYTUCSON said:


> im the same way . but sometimes , the tile/remodelers that refuse to do it also , end up paying me to do it. so its 50-50 for me. but i always try throwing it to them first



Plumbers here must have pans down and filled with 2" water for rough in inspections to pass.


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## BOBBYTUCSON (Feb 8, 2013)

Michaelcookplum said:


> Plumbers here must have pans down and filled with 2" water for rough in inspections to pass.


Here , either tradesman can do it , the licensed b3 which is tile/remodeler or cr-37 plumber , so it depends who pulls the permit who the inspection will be under , but no water required , just corners and bend have to be visibly glued


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## BOBBYTUCSON (Feb 8, 2013)

Id like to start adding water though , just because , i think id be the only one doing it and like that idea


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## czplumbing (Nov 24, 2014)

Now around here guys are doing pans a little different stainless steel welded pans they been doing that for the last 15 years, vinyl like we are talking about, now in the last year or so Fiber glass pans witch come out great and it's as good as it gets and also tile guys are using this stuff,not sure if I am spelling it right (kirdy system -or sloutersystem and the put a membrane down and roll this grey stuff on witch then turns to a rubber like Finnish pretty neat, and yes anytime I do a pan I fill with water and take pictures so if anything happens and it leaks I'll show contractor I did my part and it was tested


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Sitting here bored waiting for a septic tank to fill. Here's some more shower pan liner p0rn for yall, one shower and a dog wash.

Oh yeah, the third pic is the stuff I was talking about liking better than Quikcrete.


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## Letterrip (Jul 28, 2013)

BOBBYTUCSON said:


> Here , either tradesman can do it , the licensed b3 which is tile/remodeler or cr-37 plumber , so it depends who pulls the permit who the inspection will be under , but no water required , just corners and bend have to be visibly glued



No water test?? I would NEVER turn my pan over to the tile guy without a water test.

1- I have had a leak at the shower strainer that would never have been noted without a water test

2- I have no control of what happens to my pan after I turn it over. If I can document that I tested it and that it doesn't leak, then I am covered a little better from liability when the tile guys put holes in it or cut off the ears. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RayThePlumber (Oct 1, 2015)

Here is the proper way to make a tile shower interceptor. 

http://inspectapedia.com/BestPractices/Bath_Shower_Pan_Installation.php

Scroll down to figure 6-42. It looks like it is right out of the old UPC code book.
Anything less is guaranteed to leak. I just install the drain at the proper level and let the tile man finish it.


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