# Yeah, looks good to me.



## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

I guess that was what was said when one guy eyeballing the stub out said to the other guy eyeballing the stub out. 

Reaming:what: No comprende.

Also looks to me that the drain arm before this 90 might have backfall. Last two pics my phone is level.

I just love trimming out a house that I was not on the topout. I swear someone needs to be fired or demoted to only ditch duty. I'm not dealing with this shiot today.


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

Sell them a service contract. You'll rod it when they call, for full price, if they sign an exclusive contract, at 500 a year.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

I never glue in my stub outs, much easier to measure up and cut for the trap that way..


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> I never glue in my stub outs, much easier to measure up and cut for the trap that way..


:what:

Makes it kind of hard to pass inspection without a test on the pvc, we have to test stub outs. One with a riser equal to 5' off the floor for test.

Stub outs at 16" off the floor has never been an issue. Backfall for our guys has.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Flyout95 said:


> Sell them a service contract. You'll rod it when they call, for full price, if they sign an exclusive contract, at 500 a year.


Too bad it's new construction. I'm either fixing it on company time, or I'm going to talk with the boss tonight about sending the guy that messed it up out on his own time to fix it since it is like the 5th time this has happened in probably a 1.5 year span.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

chonkie said:


> :what:
> 
> Makes it kind of hard to pass inspection without a test on the pvc, we have to test stub outs. One with a riser equal to 5' off the floor for test.
> 
> Stub outs at 16" off the floor has never been an issue. Backfall for our guys has.


many areas here just do a visual on the rough, a few require water testing, then yes they have to be glued....but that depends if its a renovation and how big it is....lots of politics and different municipalities with different twists on the code..its real fun to keep track of who wants what and when..


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

chonkie said:


> :what:
> 
> Makes it kind of hard to pass inspection without a test on the pvc, we have to test stub outs. One with a riser equal to 5' off the floor for test.
> 
> Stub outs at 16" off the floor has never been an issue. Backfall for our guys has.


All of ours are 10' head


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## dhal22 (Jul 30, 2010)

They do not have to be glued if you glue a knockout cap in the fitting behind the stub out. I do that occasionally.


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## bct p&h (Jan 19, 2013)

A 2" rubber cap fits over a 1½" PVC hub for a test. That's what I do when I have to put the water lines through the floor because I got sick of the carpenter bending the water lines and/or hacking the drain off crooked and too short to get a coupling on.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

when I have to do a water test, ill try and use as many as these expandable plugs in whatever size 1 1/2 , 2,3,4 inch ..just stand back if one lets loose..LOl...and for filling and draining, I drilled and threaded a test plug for a cleanout with a hose bibb..


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

We do a stack test here-just finished a 3 bath rough one underground, 3 floor drains floor drain to the back door. Everything individually vented. I filled it from underground up to 2' above the second floor-one leak on a 2" long sweep because I pryed on it with a 6' ground bar.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Flyout95 said:


> Sell them a service contract. You'll rod it when they call, for full price, if they sign an exclusive contract, at 500 a year.


Haha, I just reread this and got it. Damn I'm slow at times. I'll have to try selling that, but shouldn't exclusivity be worth more?


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## Workhorseplmg (Apr 10, 2013)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> many areas here just do a visual on the rough, a few require water testing, then yes they have to be glued....but that depends if its a renovation and how big it is....lots of politics and different municipalities with different twists on the code..its real fun to keep track of who wants what and when..


I rubber cap my 1 1/2 90s with 2" caps for water test. Never glue stub outs until the final.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Those of you that cap the 90, does it end up being covered by the sheetrockers and then the cabinet? And this is an honest question, do your sheetrockers actually cut the holes properly if they do cut them? What about the cabinet guys? I'm just wondering if it's only the folks around here, that do those jobs, not giving a damn.

After we pass inspection and drop the test and cut off the 5' riser, we usually don't go back until it's me doing the trim. I guarantee I would have to cut cabinet backs and sheetrock to get to my 90's.

The electricians are always having to search for boxes or light cans the sheetrock guys didn't cut out.


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## bct p&h (Jan 19, 2013)

chonkie said:


> Those of you that cap the 90, does it end up being covered by the sheetrockers and then the cabinet? And this is an honest question, do your sheetrockers actually cut the holes properly if they do cut them? What about the cabinet guys? I'm just wondering if it's only the folks around here, that do those jobs, not giving a damn.
> 
> After we pass inspection and drop the test and cut off the 5' riser, we usually don't go back until it's me doing the trim. I guarantee I would have to cut cabinet backs and sheetrock to get to my 90's.
> 
> The electricians are always having to search for boxes or light cans the sheetrock guys didn't cut out.


After test pull the cap and put in your stub out, just don't glue it. Write on it "not glued" if your water comes through the floor so the cabinet guy knows he can pull it out to get the cabinet in.


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## Workhorseplmg (Apr 10, 2013)

I don't think Sheetrock guys cut nice holes in any part of the country, I usually have a cocked stub out that I have to pull out, trim the Sheetrock and or cabinet then glue it.


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

I glue them in, threads start 5/8 past the studs. Thread on 1 1/4 cap or one of those cheap trap nuts. Don't you love the drywall dust still on the floor at trim. End up looking like a ghost no matter what. I think I prefer sewer over trim dust


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

bct p&h said:


> After test pull the cap and put in your stub out, just don't glue it. Write on it "not glued" if your water comes through the floor so the cabinet guy knows he can pull it out to get the cabinet in.


I used to do the same thing, makes finish work a lot easier not having to squeeze in a cabinet to try and mark and cut stub out.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

I would have never thought to do it that way. We probably still won't.

Trim dust does suck ... i didn't have allergies until i became a plumber, and it's worse when I'm trimming multiple homes in a row, like now. Times like these I have to use a Neti pot to clear my sinuses, been better since I found out about neti pots.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

not to hijack the thread in another direction, but a simple filtered face mask for those dusty areas make a night and day difference, especially for one having allergies, they make some very compact ones that are very comfy on the face, yes a small inconvenience ,but beats wiping snot running down your face all night from the dust or picking white globs out of your nose...lol...


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## leakfree (Apr 3, 2011)

"I just love trimming out a house that I was not on the topout. I swear someone needs to be fired or demoted to only ditch duty. I'm not dealing with this shiot today."

When you put the guy in the ditch the next line that he back pitches may end up under concrete,better option is for him to move on.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Well ... i thought something else was wrong based on the 90 ... couldn't tell you what the other side of the cross is picking up, no plumbing on the other side of wall or in any adjacent rooms.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> not to hijack the thread in another direction, but a simple filtered face mask for those dusty areas make a night and day difference, especially for one having allergies, they make some very compact ones that are very comfy on the face, yes a small inconvenience ,but beats wiping snot running down your face all night from the dust or picking white globs out of your nose...lol...


I've tried using those simple ones and did not like using them, still had issues. I bought a nicer dual element rubber one and it works great in really dusty situations, i actually got it when I was in a/c service for when we had to run new linesets in old apartments, but I am only supposed to only wear it at 15 minutes at a time.

I do other things now to cut down on dust in the areas I'm working in, like vacuuming up piles, wiping down insides of cabinets with a damp towel before I set trim. I like a clean work area. Allergies are probably worse this year due to all the rain and no real winter.

Are there any specific ones that you would recommend that I try?


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

yes this one, it stops all kinds of nasty stuff and is very comfy, I also weld and needed a compact mask to go under the welding hood...https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WIH1OVM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## Gargalaxy (Aug 14, 2013)

chonkie said:


> Well ... i thought something else was wrong based on the 90 ... couldn't tell you what the other side of the cross is picking up, no plumbing on the other side of wall or in any adjacent rooms.


Don't need to put the level on, I know what I did there. You still don't get the plumbing, do you? The cross is for a future fixture, check the clean out inside the closet


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

chonkie said:


> I've tried using those simple ones and did not like using them, still had issues. I bought a nicer dual element rubber one and it works great in really dusty situations, i actually got it when I was in a/c service for when we had to run new linesets in old apartments, but I am only supposed to only wear it at 15 minutes at a time.
> 
> I do other things now to cut down on dust in the areas I'm working in, like vacuuming up piles, wiping down insides of cabinets with a damp towel before I set trim. I like a clean work area. Allergies are probably worse this year due to all the rain and no real winter.
> 
> Are there any specific ones that you would recommend that I try?


Get one of these blowers (Makita makes one too) blow out the cabinets and dust on floor. Shoot it right out the door. Makes end of day clean up easy also.


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## bct p&h (Jan 19, 2013)

KoleckeINC said:


> I glue them in, threads start 5/8 past the studs. Thread on 1 1/4 cap or one of those cheap trap nuts. Don't you love the drywall dust still on the floor at trim. End up looking like a ghost no matter what. I think I prefer sewer over trim dust


That's fine if you're under one of those hack codes that allow tubular traps 
Around here you can't have slip nuts on the outlet side of the trap so all traps are full size up to the tail piece.
Not glueing the stub is fine in a house but when you get into commercial it's cast iron and copper. At that point I've soldered on a female adapter just past the sheetrock and used either a male adapter of an ips trap with a nipple on the finish if the water has to come through the floor.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> yes this one, it stops all kinds of nasty stuff and is very comfy, I also weld and needed a compact mask to go under the welding hood...https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WIH1OVM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I like the slim design of that one, might check it out. My current mask if needed is the first pic style. 

The second pic were the type that didn't work so great for me, didn't fit my face that good.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

the one that I gave the link to is very light ....and the 2 head straps are elastic but dont grab or feel constricting..and its easy to breath through, I usually blow out the filters every few times I wear it..it cuts down on odors when dealing with sewage and all that good stuff...


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## 89plumbum (May 14, 2011)

bct p&h said:


> That's fine if you're under one of those hack codes that allow tubular traps
> Around here you can't have slip nuts on the outlet side of the trap so all traps are full size up to the tail piece.
> Not glueing the stub is fine in a house but when you get into commercial it's cast iron and copper. At that point I've soldered on a female adapter just past the sheetrock and used either a male adapter of an ips trap with a nipple on the finish if the water has to come through the floor.



Here in Charlotte, its CI for arms. 2x1-1/2 tap 90 and nipple. 1-1/2 nipple on trim out and box esc hides the nut.

I don't think I've seen any copper arms since I moved here. Copper was the norm in Orlando (where I'm from)


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

That was a fun fix with all the pex in the way, and the bind they had the pvc in was unreal.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

What was the problem


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## Plumbus (Aug 4, 2008)

What is the y branch tailpiece picking up, furnace condensate?


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## Plumbus (Aug 4, 2008)

We use a combination of gal nipples and plastic for stub outs. With nipples I try to get my guys to loosen the nipple when they drop their test. Nothing harder than trying to remove a frozen 1-1/2" nipple in a tight cabinet. 
On plastic stub outs, we only use a 2" jim cap when it's a pedestal sink which requires the waste connector to be half way into the wall.
Worst of all is a copper DWV stub out where you have to sweat on a waste connector. I've singed a few cabinets in my time.


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## moonapprentice (Aug 23, 2012)

Ever find out what was dumping into the other side of the tee?


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

GREENPLUM said:


> What was the problem


Pics on page 1 and page 3. 2" through floor was at an angle, other guys just glued on the cross, giving one side mucho fall and the other side back fall.

They also didn't deburr the pvc. And the 90 to the cross also had back fall.

Then I had to add 22's to the vent since that didn't line up for squat once I cut it loose to allow the cross to pick up.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

moonapprentice said:


> Ever find out what was dumping into the other side of the tee?


Future bar sink for the media room.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Plumbus said:


> What is the y branch tailpiece picking up, furnace condensate?


Yes.


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

I woulda used the Reed brand pvc extractor in a harbor freight right angle quick change drill. It'll pass a stack test my friend. I can attest to that.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

KoleckeINC said:


> I woulda used the Reed brand pvc extractor in a harbor freight right angle quick change drill. It'll pass a stack test my friend. I can attest to that.


Cross would have still been wrong. I was hoping it was just the 90, but it never ends up being that easy.


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

How many ferncos did you use? j/k


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

KoleckeINC said:


> How many ferncos did you use? j/k


One and a half.


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## Gargalaxy (Aug 14, 2013)

chonkie said:


> Future bar sink for the media room.


I told you I was there and you didn't believe me :laughing2:


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## paultheplumber1 (May 1, 2014)

I've always used 2" fern co caps for dwv test on pvc. Then a dry fit stub out. As soon as we get inspection we pull the caps and pop in the stubs. Usually at that same time is when we poke the vent out the roof that had been capped for testing


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## bct p&h (Jan 19, 2013)

paultheplumber1 said:


> I've always used 2" fern co caps for dwv test on pvc. Then a dry fit stub out. As soon as we get inspection we pull the caps and pop in the stubs. Usually at that same time is when we poke the vent out the roof that had been capped for testing


Vent was capped for test? Are we going to get into that whole PVC water vs air test thing again?
Personally, I use water to test all drains unless there is occupied space underneath.


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## bowta360 (Jan 17, 2016)

bct p&h said:


> Vent was capped for test? Are we going to get into that whole PVC water vs air test thing again?
> Personally, I use water to test all drains unless there is occupied space underneath.


I'm with you on that. Testing with air can be dangerous. If anything blows apart you might be dodging shrapnel


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## paultheplumber1 (May 1, 2014)

Not to start the old air vs water debate. Yes we always test with air. 5psi for 15 min. It's commonplace here and most other company's I'm friendly with do it this way. Water is rarely available at test time and freezing Temps make it difficult to do a water test.


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

paultheplumber1 said:


> Not to start the old air vs water debate. Yes we always test with air. 5psi for 15 min. It's commonplace here and most other company's I'm friendly with do it this way. Water is rarely available at test time and freezing Temps make it difficult to do a water test.


A good friend of mine was killed by an air test in October... Good for thought.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Flyout95 said:


> A good friend of mine was killed by an air test in October... Good for thought.


Good reminder Fly.

Just because no one we know has been killed, doesn't mean the risk is not real.


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

Flyout95 said:


> A good friend of mine was killed by an air test in October... Good for thought.


By PVC rupture?


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

I don't believe that, link or proof that a man was killed by 5psi test on pvc


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

It's not from a 5psi test, but still sucks to hear about.

http://www.wbgllp.com/cic-newsletter-welby.php?id=56


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

I don't think you'll find where someone has been killed from pvc rupture with 5psi test. I think most say not to do it so there won't be a first case. 

I wouldn't think there would be enough kinetic energy to kill since pvc is light and 5psi isn't much. Of course, perfect scenario with the right person at the right time getting hit in just the right spot could be killed.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

Yep 70psi on 6" pvc, that will do it


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

This 5psi theory should be tested on Mythbusters.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

I've tested out alot houses with 5psi air. PASSED INSPECTION


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

GREENPLUM said:


> I've tested out alot houses with 5psi air. PASSED INSPECTION


I agree, it is an approved method in I believe every code. I agree that water is a better test but not always an option.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

It is a pdf.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...rxSA7nDuOmaYGtbzQ&sig2=575Jw4YWqKDXKud5uzJ2ig


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

Ya ya, we've all seen that before, Charlotte also says do not use their product to convey flue gases, have ya stopped doing that yet?


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

It may work, it may pass, and many of you may do it without any concern for POSSIBLE safety issues. Just because it hasn't happened YET, doesn't mean it can't happen when you least expect it to.

I'm not saying to change the way you do things. I'm sure none of us have done any scientific testing on this, so i guess our word against the pipe manufacturer isn't better.

Like i said before, i don't think the energy is there to kill, but i haven't tested my theory, so i go by the pipe manufacturer.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

plumbdrum said:


> Ya ya, we've all seen that before, Charlotte also says do not use their product to convey flue gases, have ya stopped doing that yet?


I get the points being made. I also am just discussing the other points that people seem to ignore.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Plumbdrum, you're usually gungho for what the manufacturer instructions say.


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

chonkie said:


> Plumbdrum, you're usually gungho for what the manufacturer instructions say.


 True, but it's kind of tough to argue with a a plumber in my state what the code allows for testing.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

So thanks to Charlotte pipe I now know that there's been one death from legit testing of PVC pipe.

Anybody know of another.


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

My friend wasn't killed by pvc, but still... Air is dangerous.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

Flyout sorry for the loss of your friend.

Air is dangerous, it's good to be cautious, on a slab we would stand back and hope a test cap didn't blow off. I remember one of the test cap had "do not test more the 15lbs",,, it mighta been 25 ,,, don't remember


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Sorry to hear about losing a good friend. 

Might be a tough subject to talk about, but would you be willing to tell us what it was that killed him during the air test and what psi the test was at?


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## bct p&h (Jan 19, 2013)

plumbdrum said:


> Ya ya, we've all seen that before, Charlotte also says do not use their product to convey flue gases, have ya stopped doing that yet?


I actually use schedule 80 cpvc for my venting. I'll still use pvc on the intake. The difference between what I do and what a lot of the other guys on here do is I'm 99% commercial so the equipment I'm venting is usually higher btu and running at higher temperatures.
I know where to get ipex pipe and fittings if I want to run PVC venting, they approve their pipe for venting.


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## paultheplumber1 (May 1, 2014)

I've never seen the pvc shatter from our tests. No saying it can't happen. I have seen a jiffy plug blow out from a 3" 90 for a toilet before. I was standing right above it and if flew up in the air to about chest level. I suppose if I had my face positioned in the right place maybe I could have gotten a fat lip or bloody nose. I've had a 250 well extrol explode at about 50 psi and send shards of rusted metal across the basement and have enough force to stick to a 2x4 like a Chinese star. The top round of the tank shot straight up and wedged itself between the floor joists. That was scary and have been timid around well tanks ever since. The tank had no visable signs of rust on the exterior and was only about 8 years old.


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