# Finally Got Some Pics of My Work.



## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

Here are some photos of a couple of Water Heaters I did recently. Feel pretty good about install. I should make a list of the things I think others will pick on, before it happens. Well let's hear it.


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

Label on the expansion tank on the right is not facing forward.


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

pvc pan drains. tsk tsk tsk.


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

Looks good to me......except for the copper FIP adapters on the nipples. Brass would have been better. Meh, what ever.


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

1. Electrical not supported properly
2. Unions on both tanks not at same height
3. Looks like you got the drywall all wet and stained


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## rex (Jun 13, 2008)

unions on water tanks arent at the same height

actully i could care less nice job!


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

Lmao


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Looks good to me. The only thing I would have done diffferent is pipe my relief lines to the back of the pan instead of the front. We dont bond the hot and cold either. The pan drains would hafta be 1.5" here and pvc would be approved for the pan drain. The most important part of the install we cant see.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

No earth quake straps, would not pass here. Sorry


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

No atmospheric vaccum breakers?


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

Damn, 

This thread got so brutal he left. :icon_redface:


Someone is going to probably say the air temperature is wrong in the room where the water heaters was installed. You watch.


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## pauliplumber (Feb 9, 2009)

The air temperature in the room looks a little high, other than that looks good.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

do you really need 2 exp tanks? ball valves on the hot side, you must not be buyin the material. :laughing:


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

I want you to clean the inside of your pans out next time. Let's see some more drips on you solder joints. Those look too clean


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## SlickRick (Sep 3, 2009)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> No atmospheric vaccum breakers?


Why VB's? T&P out of plumb.


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> Damn,
> 
> This thread got so brutal he left. :icon_redface:
> 
> ...


Sorry, posted pics, then went to Church.
Ok. I figured all that would be said, that is why I didn't give any details. These were actually replacements, so the pans were not my work.
1. I knew someone would catch that the labels on tanks were not forward facing.
2. Drain pans were already installed.
3. Copper FIP was an attempt to solve a problem they had been having, dielectric nipples were used. 
4. Unions at different heights was a funny mistake I made.
5. Don't need earthquake straps.
6. Don't need atmospheric vacuum breakers either.
7. Expansion tanks are free from city, and each heater is for separate apartments.

Now leave me alone to cry. :hammer::laughing:


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

Here the T&P need to be piped to the nearest floor drain, not allowed to drain into the pan. Also no shut of valves allowed on the hot side.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

I see some gas lines there. Why not upsell to Gas heaters. Lectrics suck.


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

Took too long for the pictures to load....:whistling2:


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Indie said:


> Sorry, posted pics, then went to Church.
> Ok. I figured all that would be said, that is why I didn't give any details. These were actually replacements, so the pans were not my work.
> 1. I knew someone would catch that the labels on tanks were not forward facing.
> 2. Drain pans were already installed.
> ...


1. So what if the labels dont line up....theres two and your showing front and back:thumbsup:
2.It doesn't matter if they were already installed. Your responsible for it now...not the guy who installed it originally.
3.Your protecting the tank but what gonna protect the nipple? Nothing it will fail at that connection and prolly faster than it would if you connected it directly to the tank depending on water quality and the quality of that steel nipple.
4. Thats not a mistake and its fine.
5. We dnt either
6. Thats what the hole in the dip tube is for so you dont need one
7. Free tanks from the city would piss me off....thats money out of your pocket....you could have sold those two tanks but that was not possible was it? Capitalism doesn't work if the goverment is going to go in business giving everything away...whats next are they going to start setting limits on what we can charge because we are vital to sanitary living conditions?


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

TheMaster said:


> 1. So what if the labels dont line up....theres two and your showing front and back:thumbsup:
> 
> 7. Free tanks from the city would piss me off....thats money out of your pocket....you could have sold those two tanks but that was not possible was it? Capitalism doesn't work if the goverment is going to go in business giving everything away...whats next are they going to start setting limits on what we can charge because we are vital to sanitary living conditions?


Government and utilities do make capitalism a bit hard, when it comes to competition. 
I only hope that my coworker reads all this. It validates most of what we knew would be said on a Plumber Forum.


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

That was my point :thumbsup:



TheMaster said:


> 1. So what if the labels dont line up....theres two and your showing front and back:thumbsup:
> 2.It doesn't matter if they were already installed. Your responsible for it now...not the guy who installed it originally.
> *3.Your protecting the tank but what gonna protect the nipple? Nothing it will fail at that connection and prolly faster than it would if you connected it directly to the tank depending on water quality and the quality of that steel nipple.*
> 4. Thats not a mistake and its fine.
> ...


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## A Good Plumber (Jun 18, 2008)

Seismic Straps.
Relief drain to the exterior of the building or to an approved drain.
Union on the relief valve.
Insulation on the first five feet of hot and cold piping at a water heater.

All of the above required here.

Great looking job though


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## kentdmo (Dec 15, 2008)

looks good CA. you have to plum T&P to exterior. bonding cold to hot to gas pipe


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## TheSkinnyGuy (Sep 15, 2009)

SewerRatz said:


> Here the T&P need to be piped to the nearest floor drain, not allowed to drain into the pan. Also no shut of valves allowed on the hot side.


had one inspector in Pinellas County RED TAG me for not having SOV's on the hot side...


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

TheSkinnyGuy said:


> had one inspector in Pinellas County RED TAG me for not having SOV's on the hot side...


 
In florida?


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## Bayside500 (May 16, 2009)

TheSkinnyGuy said:


> had one inspector in Pinellas County RED TAG me for not having SOV's on the hot side...


what is a SOV ?


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

Bayside500 said:


> what is a SOV ?


Are you for real???? SHUT OFF VALVE. You need to go back to being my helper.


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## MajorPlumbing (Apr 20, 2010)

house plumber said:


> Are you for real???? SHUT OFF VALVE. You need to go back to being my helper.


lmfao:thumbup:


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

This thread have me doin 2 things:

Stop posting pictures of my work here

Take up sewing full time


Too brutal here these days. :nerd::surrender::boat:


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## Bayside500 (May 16, 2009)

house plumber said:


> Are you for real???? SHUT OFF VALVE. You need to go back to being my helper.


dammit, if i saw that on a print i would have known it, maybe LOL

been a long day for me................


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## Tyman (Nov 9, 2009)

Backup is here Indie ol' buddy. :thumbup: So you wanna post some more pics of your work?:w00t: I seen you had your camera today, post'em I dare ya.

WHYYYYYYYY!


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

The disconnect on the right has a strap on the conduit. the one on the left doesn't. Also the conduit on the right looks longer.


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

water stains on the wall looks like crap....


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## TheSkinnyGuy (Sep 15, 2009)

house plumber said:


> In florida?


Yep. St. Pete if I remember right. I started out in Florida.


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## Optimus Primer (May 20, 2009)

TheSkinnyGuy said:


> Yep. St. Pete if I remember right. I started out in Florida.


 
Yeah ok. Our shop is in pinellas county. In safety harbor. Who did you start with? You can pm me if you prefer.


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## Plasticman (Oct 14, 2008)

The tenants have hot water right? Looks good from my house!


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

SewerRatz said:


> Here the T&P need to be piped to the nearest floor drain, not allowed to drain into the pan. Also no shut of valves allowed on the hot side.


Matt or someone else that follows the Illinois Code, can you tell me if it is Illinois code not to allow a shut off valve on the outlet of a water heater? I know the code says one is required within 5 feet of the water heater on the cold side. And I have always been told by many inspectors and other plumbers that it is against code to install a valve on the hot side.


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## Phat Cat (Apr 1, 2009)

Indie you are a brave, brave man! My hats off to you for posting pics of your work.


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

SewerRatz said:


> Matt or someone else that follows the Illinois Code, can you tell me if it is Illinois code not to allow a shut off valve on the outlet of a water heater? I know the code says one is required within 5 feet of the water heater on the cold side. And I have always been told by many inspectors and other plumbers that it is against code to install a valve on the hot side.


A valve on the hot outlet of the WH is not required in IL. I recommend it though. Make sure there is expansion protection on the heater side of your valving.

If you guys do much commercial. You will quickly come to understand the reason to put a valve on the hot outlet also. I prefer not to wait 2 hours for the building to drain down. Usually you can forget finding working isolation valves. Then you are cleaning 200 friggin aerators.

On large buildings I pipe bypasses on WH's. No shut down to change the heater. No boil order. No screwing around with a ****load of fixtures.....


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## oap67 (Dec 3, 2009)

No critisim intended, but where I come from a lot of that would have done on a bending machine. I learnt many many years ago as a lad, by a boss who threatened to charge me for every fitting he throught I used, Which could have be bent.
Richard


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

oap67 said:


> No critisim intended, but where I come from a lot of that would have done on a bending machine. I learnt many many years ago as a lad, by a boss who threatened to charge me for every fitting he throught I used, Which could have be bent.
> Richard


A lot of what would have been done on a bending machine? No criticism intended here, but how about an intro.


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## njoy plumbing (May 19, 2009)

Outside of a chrome speedy or a/c lines never used a bender:blink: Any body else use benders for your waterlines, especially at tank area?


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## Plumbworker (Oct 23, 2008)

hes from spain i know they bend out alot of soft copper there.. i dont bend out any larger than 3/8" tube nowadays all fixtures by me get 3/8 chrome plate tube, dishwashers still get clean bends no "cheater tube" for me.


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

Plumbworker said:


> hes from spain i know they bend out alot of soft copper there.. i dont bend out any larger than 3/8" tube nowadays all fixtures by me get 3/8 chrome plate tube, dishwashers still get clean bends no "cheater tube" for me.


What I don't get is how would you add a tee for the expansion tank? What would the cost difference be, type L versus type M with fittings?


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

I have tube benders for 5/8 o.d. and under.


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

TheMaster said:


> I have tube benders for 5/8 o.d. and under.


It does have me considering using more soft copper and getting a bender. I like the idea of copper, and less fittings.


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