# Sump Pump Discharge



## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

In order to install a whole house BWV I got to relocate the sump pump discharge outside. The ceiling of the basement is level to the ground outside, in order to evacuate the water the only way I can see is to install a pump station and run the second discharge in the shed/extension of the house to reach outside.

Any better idea? I can always post this in the lounge for prying eyes...


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

Come up through the bottom of a cabinet and go through exterior wall. Or build a small chase to cover the pipe inside.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Debo22 said:


> Come up through the bottom of a cabinet and go through exterior wall. Or build a small chase to cover the pipe inside.


The only possible location is out back through the extension/shed. Where the pit is, it's in the corner of the house with a driveway in front and the side is the main sidewalk to get into the house.

The only other option I can see is to dig a new sump pit where it pictured above ground and fill the old one. Mucho money for that though.


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## Alan (Jun 18, 2008)

Tie it into a plumbing vent pipe and then it will come out on your roof and down the rain gutters!!!





















Whoops, you're a plumber. 

:devil3:


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Alan said:


> Tie it into a plumbing vent pipe and then it will come out on your roof and down the rain gutters!!!
> 
> 
> Whoops, you're a plumber.
> ...


I was anxious to get an answer to my question and I get this....


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## Alan (Jun 18, 2008)

Ok Ok Ok. :vs_laugh:

I'm curious why you need a pump station. Is the distance that great that the main pump won't make it?

If that's the case it would make more sense to me to upgrade the existing pump so that it will handle the work itself, and use the same exit route you planned on using for the station.

Maybe i'm missing something.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Once I bring the pipe tight to the ceiling joists and running sloped towards the back of the house(around 40 feet). I would exit 1 foot underground. I can't have that. Even if I leave it level the pipe would exit the house below the ground. With winter it will freeze and cause havoc.

I highly doubt I'm allowed with the code where the vertical and horizontal pipes are always filled water until it reaches the shed part where I can slope it towards the exterior.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Here's a little drawing to show the issue with only the original pump and pit.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

so putting in a pumping station along with all that pipe is cheaper than just making a new sump pit in the opposite end of the house? I just sink half of a 55 gallon plastic drum into the floor and cement in place...


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> so putting in a pumping station along with all that pipe is cheaper than just making a new sump pit in the opposite end of the house? I just sink half of a 55 gallon plastic drum into the floor and cement in place...


Yep it would be cheaper and a lot less work. A new pump station with pump only costs 200$ and some pipes to the old one and discharge to the outdoors.

If I have to install a new one, break concrete, dig, bring the extra dirt to the dump(100$ min fee) plus my time driving there with a dozen bucket(I have to buy a bunch of buckets) filled in the back of the truck. I have to find a way to keep it from filling with mud with geotextile? I have to vent the new sump pit to the outdoors, protect all the gaps from radon, fill the old pit and concrete both smooth etc.

But yeah a new pit would look more professional.


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## Alan (Jun 18, 2008)

I guess i'm just confused because sewage ejectors typically have horizontal sections of line with water always in them. It sort of looks like that's the only thing you're eliminating in your drawing. You still have vertical sections with water in them yes?


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## JohnnieSqueeze (Mar 23, 2016)

Alan said:


> Tie it into a plumbing vent pipe and then it will come out on your roof and down the rain gutters!!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...




YES!


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Usually the only standing water is in the vertical portion above the check valve at the pump. The rest is usually sloped down towards the outdoors.

In this case if I had standing water using only one pump the pipe would freeze in the winter because it has to go vertically in the shed/extension portion. Now saying that I realize in either case the pipe will freeze. Now I have to put a heating wire and insulation. It's getting more complicated. It's possible but more complicated

Now I have to think like Debo22, leave the horizontal with standing water run the pipe across the house, then through the floor upstairs in a bedroom(I haven't seen what's on that side) and drill through the exterior wall.
*OR* relocate to a new pit run the pipe through the floor upstairs in a bedroom and drill through the exterior wall.


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## JohnnieSqueeze (Mar 23, 2016)

Tango said:


> Once I bring the pipe tight to the ceiling joists and running sloped towards the back of the house(around 40 feet). I would exit 1 foot underground. I can't have that. Even if I leave it level the pipe would exit the house below the ground. With winter it will freeze and cause havoc.
> 
> I highly doubt I'm allowed with the code where the vertical and horizontal pipes are always filled water until it reaches the shed part where I can slope it towards the exterior.




not sure on code, but with a really good check valve ive seem them pump 400 ft up hill grade to a street. 


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## JohnnieSqueeze (Mar 23, 2016)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> so putting in a pumping station along with all that pipe is cheaper than just making a new sump pit in the opposite end of the house? I just sink half of a 55 gallon plastic drum into the floor and cement in place...




homeowner isnt gonna want to pay that price. posted in lounge.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Tango said:


> Yep it would be cheaper and a lot less work. A new pump station with pump only costs 200$ and some pipes to the old one and discharge to the outdoors.
> 
> If I have to install a new one, break concrete, dig, bring the extra dirt to the dump(100$ min fee) plus my time driving there with a dozen bucket(I have to buy a bunch of buckets) filled in the back of the truck. I have to find a way to keep it from filling with mud with geotextile? I have to vent the new sump pit to the outdoors, protect all the gaps from radon, fill the old pit and concrete both smooth etc.
> 
> But yeah a new pit would look more professional.


 fill the old pit with the dirt from the new pit, plastic barrel cemented in is a solid barrier for radon( if you fall for that gimmick) use old pump in new pit and your done, but its your call..just seems a bit to have 2 pumps and if the pump station fails you flood the basement, unless now you install saftey controls to monitor pump station to keep main pump off, and now costs and liability rise...
so now you save any trip to the dump, no trip to supply house for new pump, a few bags of concrete, no liability of flooding anything if pump fails, doesnt look like amateur hour..just my thoughts..


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> fill the old pit with the dirt from the new pit, plastic barrel cemented in is a solid barrier for radon( if you fall for that gimmick) use old pump in new pit and your done, but its your call..just seems a bit to have 2 pumps and if the pump station fails you flood the basement, unless now you install saftey controls to monitor pump station to keep main pump off, and now costs and liability rise...
> so now you save any trip to the dump, no trip to supply house for new pump, a few bags of concrete, no liability of flooding anything if pump fails, doesnt look like amateur hour..just my thoughts..


Thanks for the tips. I posted a few replies in the lounge. I'm dropping the project because of the main water line is too close to the rotted wye that I have to remove. This may call for a back hoe dig outside removing the asphalt driveway in the process, relocating the water etc. A hornet's nest for a one man show.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Tango said:


> Thanks for the tips. I posted a few replies in the lounge. I'm dropping the project because of the main water line is too close to the rotted wye that I have to remove. This may call for a back hoe dig outside removing the asphalt driveway in the process, relocating the water etc. A hornet's nest for a one man show.


I responded to your other post on this, I am alittle lost with your other posting if you could take a looksy...


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## canuck92 (Apr 1, 2016)

Core drill foundation wall, excavate along foundation wall if there is storm drainage tie it in there. If not dig a trench to the best suitable area. ( if theres a ditch )


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