# drain cables direct 3/8ths i/c cable



## sethro1981 (Oct 31, 2016)

Ok so im debating on buying a new brasscraft 5/16th cable my usual washing machine trap /really hard elbow kitchen sink ant bath tub drain machine or trying on of the 3/8ths x 50 ft i/c cables off drain cables direct .The logic is the 3/8 I/c one although double the price might last longer but,not sure if it would have enough flexibility to pass through an old rusted galvanized washing machine trap ? Anyone have any experience with either of these cables in similar situations?


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

No experience with that particular cable, but for my 100 I bought the 100’ 3/8 general i/c. I’ve been using this one cable for about three years now, maybe four. Took probably twenty to 30 drains to break it in. Now when you come across those super tight 1 1/2 traps I’ll make an attempt with the drill, but usually end up replacing the trap.


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## sethro1981 (Oct 31, 2016)

I should probably stay away from the I/C then i need at least 1 super flexible cable that can pass thru rusted washing machine traps!


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Unfortunately I can’t help you as I’ve always used I/C. I do hear where you’re coming from though.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

I just vacuum out the traps with my shop vac or put a fernco drain cap on and hook up the hose to force it out. I ain't had one come out the roof vent yet!


If all else fails and it's on the edge of being acceptable you can take a piece of 3/4" copper pipe, ream the inside real good so it has a nice sharp edge, and then punch a hole in a fernco jim cap. This will make a nice tight seal when you shove the drain hose through meaning you will always have positive pressure in your standpipe when the machine is draining and this will force the water through the clog and ultimately keep the line clearer. 



I had a house with galv in the slab that was getting bad. I did that and a couple months later happened to be back for another issue. I took the jim cap off and ran the washer, thing drained mint.


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## Standard Drain (Feb 17, 2016)

If your working on galvanized anything, I would stay away from the IC cables. Nothing is harder than hard 45's or 90's on galvanized lines.


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## fixitright (Jan 5, 2012)

Been using Mytana 3/8 inner core for a few years now.

Can't get it in I go to 1/4 secret stuff.


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## sethro1981 (Oct 31, 2016)

ill probably buy another brasscraft 5/16 there only 40 bucks at home depot


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

I will say that small ridgid cables are garbage. I got a 5/16" and a 3/8" with my k40af. They both kinked up real fast. The 5/16" was IC and the 3/8" was hollow. GARBAGE. Wasn't even spring steel. Bent by hand with ease.


Also that k40af is terrible. Holding the paddles is killer on the hands and the rubber guide tube kinks easy because it's just cheap rubber hose. Than the cable grabs the inside of the hose and won't extract. It's almost impossible to pull in or out by hand.


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

What cable do you guys recommend for the SuperVee? I tried the 5/16” General w/ drop head and inner core. I used it on a few shower drains and it was ok. 

I went to a laundry stoppage and ran my Spartan 100 through the clean out and decided to run the SuperVee through the 1 1/2” galvanized standpipe w/ cast iron trap. I had to work it forward/reverse a long time to make it through the bend. Next time was through a tub trap and couldn’t get it through. I used lineman’s pliers and cut off the drop head to clear the line. 

I’m thinking about switching back to either a General 5/16” or 1/4” without inner core and without the bulky drop head.


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## Fatpat (Nov 1, 2015)

Debo22 said:


> What cable do you guys recommend for the SuperVee? I tried the 5/16” General w/ drop head and inner core. I used it on a few shower drains and it was ok.
> 
> I went to a laundry stoppage and ran my Spartan 100 through the clean out and decided to run the SuperVee through the 1 1/2” galvanized standpipe w/ cast iron trap. I had to work it forward/reverse a long time to make it through the bend. Next time was through a tub trap and couldn’t get it through. I used lineman’s pliers and cut off the drop head to clear the line.
> 
> I’m thinking about switching back to either a General 5/16” or 1/4” without inner core and without the bulky drop head.



Debo! We have an excellent local company here called Flexible Rooter. Text me and I’ll tell you where to get them.

They make the best 1/4” and 5/16” cables

I would get the 35ft innercore 1/4” and cut the head off, and bend it at a 45.

Drop heads are bad news and will break eventually and at the most inoperatune moment.

3/8” & 5/8” I run a plastic innercore Duracable Brand.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Fatpat said:


> Debo! We have an excellent local company here called Flexible Rooter. Text me and I’ll tell you where to get them.
> 
> They make the best 1/4” and 5/16” cables
> 
> ...



I agree, drop heads on 5/16" ain't where it's at. I use the 5/16" with the basic spring bulb head thing. Where they just expand the end of the cable. Except I cut off the backward bent end and just run them in reverse. I have one cut down to 8' and another cut to 3-1/2' that I just stick in the end of my drill. I also have a full 25' in a drum for my k40af but I usually just keep the 3/8" drum load with the female end that will accept different heads.


I wouldn't feel comfortable with hollow core cable. I'd rather try something else or tell them to replace the old galv than risk breaking off a weak hollow core cable in someones drain pipe. Then instead of their pipe just being schit and time to replace it's turned into my fault for making the situation even worse.


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## Alan (Jun 18, 2008)

Debo22 said:


> What cable do you guys recommend for the SuperVee? I tried the 5/16” General w/ drop head and inner core. I used it on a few shower drains and it was ok.
> 
> I went to a laundry stoppage and ran my Spartan 100 through the clean out and decided to run the SuperVee through the 1 1/2” galvanized standpipe w/ cast iron trap. I had to work it forward/reverse a long time to make it through the bend. Next time was through a tub trap and couldn’t get it through. I used lineman’s pliers and cut off the drop head to clear the line.
> 
> I’m thinking about switching back to either a General 5/16” or 1/4” without inner core and without the bulky drop head.


I've gotten the general 3/8 cable through 1-1/2 galvanized tub traps before with that flexible arrow head. :surprise:

I still cannot stand the idea of the snake heads being held on by a screw though.


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## rooterboy (Jul 16, 2009)

Debo22 said:


> What cable do you guys recommend for the SuperVee? I tried the 5/16” General w/ drop head and inner core. I used it on a few shower drains and it was ok.
> 
> I went to a laundry stoppage and ran my Spartan 100 through the clean out and decided to run the SuperVee through the 1 1/2” galvanized standpipe w/ cast iron trap. I had to work it forward/reverse a long time to make it through the bend. Next time was through a tub trap and couldn’t get it through. I used lineman’s pliers and cut off the drop head to clear the line.
> 
> I’m thinking about switching back to either a General 5/16” or 1/4” without inner core and without the bulky drop head.


i hate to cut the drop head off a good cable it sucks but you have to to complete some jobs unless you have an extra cable lying around.:sad2:


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## Venomthirst (Jun 20, 2018)

Drop heads in my opinion break way too easy and I hate losing cutters in the drain.. I usually just use a j bend on the end of a cable never have a problem with going up vent or navigating a double y.. we use ridgid 3/8" cables for kitchens laundry tubs 2" f.d 5/16 for basins and bathtubs kitchens if I know the pipe is in rough shape.. clear toilet stacks on occasion with 3/8" cables in apartment buildings through vanity..


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