# Tub/Shower Faucet Conversions



## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

Bear with me on this; I'm trying out embed codes and don't know which ones are going to work here. 


This is one of my major money makers in business, removing 2/3 handle faucets and installing single handle faucets. 


PICTURE ALBUM


Nothing worked on embedding.


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## super plumber (Oct 19, 2008)

Duck,
why is the white spacer on the outside of chrome escutcheon tube? It is visible in the last pic. right behind handle.


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## Dr Steevil (Jan 25, 2009)

Duck,

To post images, look for a square icon that is yellow with two little triangle "mountains" at the bottom. That's the button to attach images. You'll get a pop up where you enter the link to the picture. The image that Super Plumber refers to is below. What I did to get the link was first, find the image on your site, then right click on it, select "Properties" then highlight and copy the image url. Paste that into the pop up and voila!

And I'm curious too about the white spacer ring. Can't really tell, but looks like you're missing the chrome sleeve that slides over the valve. Other than that, nice job! Where did you get the backer plate? I've been wondering about something like that for some time now, but never really investigated it much.


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## pzmember (Sep 20, 2008)

Dr Steevil said:


> Duck,
> 
> To post images, look for a square icon that is yellow with two little triangle "mountains" at the bottom. That's the button to attach images. You'll get a pop up where you enter the link to the picture. The image that Super Plumber refers to is below. What I did to get the link was first, find the image on your site, then right click on it, select "Properties" then highlight and copy the image url. Paste that into the pop up and voila!
> 
> And I'm curious too about the white spacer ring. Can't really tell, but looks like you're missing the chrome sleeve that slides over the valve. Other than that, nice job! Where did you get the backer plate? I've been wondering about something like that for some time now, but never really investigated it much.


that spacer goes inside the sleeve on the 1300 series deltas, get back there duck and change that. it brings the sleeve up flush w/ the handle.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

:laughing:


I knew I'd get caught on that. :tt2:



Here's my bullshti excuse, and when you hear it, you'll know why I do it. I use Delta remodel plates, Danco ones as well. Sometimes depending on how clean the holes where put in the wall for the 3 handle faucets, that cover will just barely cover a 12" spread faucet. 
If the hole was cut badly, then it won't work. On 8" centers, you can hide it all. 




When I rework these faucets, sometimes the valve will rough in too far out. When this happens, you try to pull that chrome piece out too far, it will expose the brass valve body. That's not going to fly. So, using that spacer outside fills the gap without having the valve protrude with the chrome sleeve not doing its job.


Some faucets I don't have to do this, some do. Most times it's inside like where it belongs. One in particular, I used 2 of those on the outside to get it to work out.

Most of these however are emergency jobs where I'm called in at a moments notice to rework. "Some" can be reworked with using street 90's and 45's to roll that valve out or into the wall. Sometimes I have to do double street 90's, or I won't use any fittings at all other than the sweat sockets that are designed in the R10000 or solder 1/2" FIP's right to the valve. Before anyone screams about me sweating threaded connections...

it works, and I only do them on these valves. Never anything out in the open where I can get to them.

The R10000 is by far a longer valve and I'm not going to make double work of trying to get back farther into the wall. Sometimes the tolerance of fittings will prevent that along with issue of how the last plumber installed/anchored those lines inside the wall. I've done tons of these and some of the water lines in these offer zero movement, or are braced so tight in the wall that I'm taking huge chances prying, popping these lines into fittings or the valve itself. It's crazy some of the things I've done, and most of the reworks when it's single handle for single handle, *I'm working inside a 4-3/4" hole so I can avoid a remodel plate, like every other plumber states they must have, or access to the back side.* I've sold a ton of them by that statement alone. 

I've only had one person complain about that piece, and it was this valve I installed in particular. Now, if another plumber came and did work behind me, they'd probably flag it as well, but as I repeat; most were emergencies and sometimes you can't make them work out in the way you want them. Anyone that knows 1/2" copper, there's a significant distance between double street 90's distance, street 90 into regular 45. IF, they made 22's in copper I could eliminate the use of that piece completely. 

We all know that's never going to happen, short of bending copper tubing. What's awesome is the R10000 is a larger valve altogether and you can replace monitor for monitor on a rework and never use a coupling or a FIP. 

On these 2/3 handle reworks, I'm dealing with thin wall all the way up to 2" thick plaster at times so sometimes I can make it work, sometimes I can't. 

What I find with this application is people hook those mesh ruffled soap scrubbers around those white pieces. Don't know why, but that is where a bunch I've seen go when I install these valves.


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

Duck says ":icon_redface: Woops! Uh, yea, I uh, I knew that, I uh, I was just testing you guys! Yea, that's it, just testing you guys. Good job fellas! :icon_redface:.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

smellslike$tome said:


> Duck says ":icon_redface: Woops! Uh, yea, I uh, I knew that, I uh, I was just testing you guys! Yea, that's it, just testing you guys. Good job fellas! :icon_redface:.


 

All explained in the post above my friend.


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## pzmember (Sep 20, 2008)

do they put those mesh coverd spongy soap things there to hide that ugly white thing.:whistling2::laughing:


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

LOL! They could...but I truly believe they don't know otherwise. 

I wish I could do it differently but I come with street and regular 45's, street and regular 90's and I'm not going to double swing joint the valve to make it land in the right spot. I'd have to do that to 4 water lines, the hot/cold/shower riser/tub spout and it's bad enough I'm soldering in a hole to begin with.

What's worse is those ones where there's a piece of wood running across like for the shower lug ell and you can't move the valve back, them SUCK! and the new valve is coming out of the wall regardless. 

If the customer uses the crystal knob, always a non-issue.


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

Roast Duck said:


> All explained in the post above my friend.


Just busting your chops man. 

If your customer is happy then I am happy.


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

An aftermarket sleeve that was longer would solve all of those problems. 

I've never seen one.


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## richfield (Oct 29, 2008)

first time I did a job like this, it took me very long. I used moen and it was a tiled shower but I worked and worked on this stupid project, working through this tiny hole. finally I finish and am satisfied, about to give the homeowner the bill but pack up my tools and look around. as I look around I see on the back side was a large access cover in a closet. I felt like crap, after I took all this extra time trying not to do make a hole in the wall. I felt stupid, now I always look behind the tub first. I have done lots of Delta too but never had any problems and definitely never needed to put the extension piece on the outside, but I guess if the homeowner is happy then whatever. from now on it's the decorative extension piece.


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## gusty60 (Oct 21, 2008)

Looks like the piece of OSB is the same thickness as the white spacer:whistling2:


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

gusty60 said:


> Looks like the piece of OSB is the same thickness as the white spacer:whistling2:


 
Close! It's 3/8" with 2 2X4's set as a tee. The board was a perfect fit with one cut, :thumbsup: Couldn't set the valve back that far against the bare studs, would of had to go to the crawl space to move lines. Water lines were already non-movable forward.


Jeez! I might need counseling after all this, I'm hurt, like oats dropped out of a horse's feed bag...on the floor.


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## pzmember (Sep 20, 2008)

Roast Duck said:


> Close! It's 3/8" with 2 2X4's set as a tee. The board was a perfect fit with one cut, :thumbsup: Couldn't set the valve back that far against the bare studs, would of had to go to the crawl space to move lines. Water lines were already non-movable forward.
> 
> 
> Jeez! I might need counseling after all this, I'm hurt, like oats dropped out of a horse's feed bag...on the floor.


 ill give ya my shrinks #. shes a rosie o donnell lookin lesbian, but man does she know how to clear out a head.:laughing:


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

mjcoleman said:


> ill give ya my shrinks #. shes a rosie o donnell lookin lesbian, but man does she know how to clear out a head.:laughing:


 

Noooooo noooooo nooooooo!!!! Nothing that even remotely follows the Rosie O'Donnell...never!


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