# Friday-sawzall time



## JoshJ (May 10, 2012)

Spent 15 minutes trying to get the nut of this Kohler faucet to replace it. Wouldn't bug. Less than a minute of attention from the recip saw, and the end of the day was in sight! :thumbup:


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

JoshJ said:


> Spent 15 minutes trying to get the nut of this Kohler faucet to replace it. Wouldn't bug. Less than a minute of attention from the recip saw, and the end of the day was in sight! :thumbup:


That's aggravating...lucky for you you weren't there to rebuild it on flat rate :yes:


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## JoshJ (May 10, 2012)

johnlewismcleod said:


> ...lucky for you you weren't there to rebuild it on flat rate :yes:


Too true! They were talking about replacing the hose (which had come apart internally), but decided to go with a new faucet instead. Not sure what I would have done if they were keeping the faucet.:no:


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

A dremel is nice tool to own as well and much less aggressive.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Indie said:


> A dremel is nice tool to own as well and much less aggressive.


 








With the Dremmel tool, one looks more like a surgeon and not a butcher........also the Dremmel is much smaller so it fits into smaller areas, like under the sink.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

By the way, Josh J., I was not implying that you butchered the faucet. That wasn't my intent. I have used hacksaws to cut out kitchen faucets before.


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

I keep reading and hearing people describe dremels as if they were real tools that can do work :blink:

It's been about twenty years (maybe more) since I tried to use a dremel to cut anything, but back then the cut-off wheels were pure junk...they snapped and shattered quicker than you could change them out.

Has the technology improved and it's time to give them another try, or are you fellows computer geeks disguised as plumbers? :laughing::jester:


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

johnlewismcleod said:


> I keep reading and hearing people describe dremels as if they are real tools that can do work :blink:
> 
> It's been about twenty years (maybe more) since I tried to use a dremel to cut anything, but back then the cut-off wheels were pure junk...they snapped and shattered quicker than you could change them out.
> 
> Has the technology improved and it's time to give them another try, or are you fellows computer geeks disguised as plumbers? :laughing::jester:


 







Mine has alot of the little wheels. Some break easy. When cutting with the flimsy wheels, do it gently and it shouldn't shatter. 

I used my Dremmel the other day under a kitchen sink (about two or three weeks ago); I used it to cut the brass nut off the underneath side of a basket strainer. Those things are difficult to remove as we all know. I didn't feel like using my hacksaw which is what I usually use in that situation.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

johnlewismcleod said:


> I keep reading and hearing people describe dremels as if they were real tools that can do work :blink:
> 
> It's been about twenty years (maybe more) since I tried to use a dremel to cut anything, but back then the cut-off wheels were pure junk...they snapped and shattered quicker than you could change them out.
> 
> Has the technology improved and it's time to give them another try, or are you fellows computer geeks disguised as plumbers? :laughing::jester:


 






I got mine at Sears. I like it.


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

I have one of these. It gets in tighter spots than a Dremel and is a real tool.






Paul


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Looks like a tattoo gun or some then


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Tommy plumber said:


> By the way, Josh J., I was not implying that you butchered the faucet. That wasn't my intent. I have used hacksaws to cut out kitchen faucets before.


I'd used a blow torch


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## Titletownplumbr (Feb 16, 2011)

JoshJ said:


> Spent 15 minutes trying to get the nut of this Kohler faucet to replace it. Wouldn't bug. Less than a minute of attention from the recip saw, and the end of the day was in sight! :thumbup:


That's an unprofessional way of doing that as you take a chance of ruining the sink. Do yourself a favor and get a cordless Dremel with reinforced grinding wheels, I keep one right in my bag. I would have had that faucet off in less than 5 minutes with a Dremel, it's almost like cheating.


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

It's basically what a jeweler would use. The motor is supposed to hang from a hook and the hand piece has a real chuck and accepts dremel arbors, bits and cutting wheels. 






Paul


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

johnlewismcleod said:


> I keep reading and hearing people describe dremels as if they were real tools that can do work :blink:
> 
> It's been about twenty years (maybe more) since I tried to use a dremel to cut anything, but back then the cut-off wheels were pure junk...they snapped and shattered quicker than you could change them out.
> 
> Has the technology improved and it's time to give them another try, or are you fellows computer geeks disguised as plumbers? :laughing::jester:


The wheels that Tommy shown in the pic are the type I have bad luck with and shatter all the time. Get the wheels that reinforced...they look just like a 4-1/2 grinding wheel just smaller. I also like the carbide burrs for ginding and drilling....works awsome when drilling tile. #1 tool for that job.

I keep mine on the van....I don't use it for every job but when I do have to use it, it's the only tool that could've done that job.


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

K...clearly it's time to give the Dremel another try :yes:

Thanks, all :thumbsup:


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## JoshJ (May 10, 2012)

Titletownplumbr said:


> That's an unprofessional way of doing that as you take a chance of ruining the sink. Do yourself a favor and get a cordless Dremel with reinforced grinding wheels, I keep one right in my bag. I would have had that faucet off in less than 5 minutes with a Dremel, it's almost like cheating.


The whole damage to the sink thing was definitely in my mind as I did it, was real cautious, that's for sure.


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## JoshJ (May 10, 2012)

johnlewismcleod said:


> K...clearly it's time to give the Dremel another try :yes:
> 
> Thanks, all :thumbsup:


Think I'm going to look for one too, it's time to do some tool shopping anyways!


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Cordless mutlitool with a semicircle metal cutting blade.


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## redbeardplumber (Dec 4, 2012)

johnlewismcleod said:


> K...clearly it's time to give the Dremel another try :yes:
> 
> Thanks, all :thumbsup:


Yep me too, I had the same problems with the shattering.


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

Air powered mini die grinder, both straight and angle, are must have tools for this exact situation.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Killertoiletspider said:


> Air powered mini die grinder, both straight and angle, are must have tools for this exact situation.


Great tools for a shop but who's got the air compressor in the van that can handle this?


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=426

These are the cutting wheels to use with the dremel.

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=9910

This is the carbide bit for grinding tile and steel.


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

gear junkie said:


> Great tools for a shop but who's got the air compressor in the van that can handle this?


A compressor was always a priority tool on work trucks, and not just for running tools.


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## JoshJ (May 10, 2012)

I always keep a small compressor in the truck. Just have never thought about using air tools for that sort of thing. I'd probably look for an electric one though, little compressor is way noisy!


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## aero1 (Feb 13, 2009)

fein multi tool for me.


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

Whut Josh said...I keep a compressor on the truck for locates, tests, and draining/blowing things clear, but it never occured to me to keep air tools.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

johnlewismcleod said:


> Whut Josh said...I keep a compressor on the truck for locates, tests, and draining/blowing things clear, but it never occured to me to keep air tools.


Electric ?? For located??? Like slab leaked ?? How.


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> Electric ?? For located??? Like slab leaked ?? How.


Drink some coffee, brother...then re-type that in Texican so I can understand it :laughing:


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

A compressor for locating what ?? Slab leaks?? How ??


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> A compressor for locating what ?? Slab leaks?? How ??


Essential for locating domestic or heating/chill water leaks below grade :yes:


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

johnlewismcleod said:


> Essential for locating domestic or heating water leaks below grade :yes:


Can I assume you are using the compressor in tandem with a Gen-Ear or something similar?
I keep a compressor with me full time as well.


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

Epox said:


> Can I assume you are using the compressor in tandem with a Gen-Ear or something similar?
> I keep a compressor with me full time as well.


Yes...but probably best to discuss specific techniques in the BL if there is interest. 

You _will_ need to know how to do this now that you're a service plumber, TX tech. 

Start a thread in the BL if you want to get some pointers.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

johnlewismcleod said:


> Whut Josh said...I keep a compressor on the truck for locates, tests, and draining/blowing things clear, but it never occured to me to keep air tools.


No doubt but an air compressor to run a die grinder is huge....way to big for a service van, also probably need to run off 220. KTS, what did you guys need the big air compressor for?


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## BigDave (Mar 24, 2012)

gear junkie said:


> Great tools for a shop but who's got the air compressor in the van that can handle this?


:icon_redface: That would be me...

20 gal. belt driven cast iron 

"what did you guys need the big air compressor for?"

Slab leaks


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

gear junkie said:


> No doubt but an air compressor to run a die grinder is huge....way to big for a service van, also probably need to run off 220. KTS, what did you guys need the big air compressor for?


The compressor was gas powered, mounted on top of the utility bed, we used it to air test water pipe a lot, ever try to use a pancake compressor to air test a twelve unit strip mall or a ten story condo building?


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

Killertoiletspider said:


> The compressor was gas powered, mounted on top of the utility bed, we used it to air test water pipe a lot, ever try to use a pancake compressor to air test a twelve unit strip mall or a ten story condo building?


Yes... It takes a while.


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

johnlewismcleod said:


> I keep reading and hearing people describe dremels as if they were real tools that can do work :blink:
> 
> It's been about twenty years (maybe more) since I tried to use a dremel to cut anything, but back then the cut-off wheels were pure junk...they snapped and shattered quicker than you could change them out.
> 
> Has the technology improved and it's time to give them another try, or are you fellows computer geeks disguised as plumbers? :laughing::jester:


I used my Dremel a couple of weeks back to cut out a very old tub drain. It was a heavy duty brass drain that would not budge. Cut it from the top, made about 8 quick cuts looked like a flower, popped the pieces out dropped the bottom, no damage done to the cast iron tub. 

Just bought a variety pack of cutting wheels. Brass faucet nuts and strainer nuts don't take but a minute with the Dremel.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Dremel is one of must have tool on the truck.. if I take it off, I'll need it on the next job. Upcoming job, I have 36 allen head screws painted over dozen times. Perfect tool for the job.


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## The bear (Sep 27, 2012)

Dremel tool great for splitting Delta dome nuts.Also cutting 11/2 dwv copper coming out of floor for tub waste. Recommend nitrogen tank 40cf or tracer gas for leak detection


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

The bear said:


> Dremel tool great for splitting Delta dome nuts.Also cutting 11/2 dwv copper coming out of floor for tub waste. Recommend nitrogen tank 40cf or tracer gas for leak detection


 








Do you do alot of leak detection? The companies I worked for always subbed out that work. Even today, I sub out that work usually (unless I open walls and start cutting and capping manifolds). Are the headphones and other gear costly? If not, I'll do my own slab leak detection. American Leak Detection is who I/we have always used.

If memory serves me correctly, (15) gallons an hour is the minimum that can be detected; really small pinhole leaks could not be found. Is that accurate?


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Tommy plumber said:


> Do you do alot of leak detection? The companies I worked for always subbed out that work. Even today, I sub out that work usually (unless I open walls and start cutting and capping manifolds). Are the headphones and other gear costly? If not, I'll do my own slab leak detection. American Leak Detection is who I/we have always used.
> 
> If memory serves me correctly, (15) gallons an hour is the minimum that can be detected; really small pinhole leaks could not be found. Is that accurate?


In Houston you don't need a gen-ear. Just an air compressor, fish tape, and a locator device that sends a current thru the copper so you can find both ends if the fish tape wont go thru. It also helps to have a lot of experience so you can maximize your time. We re-route them only. We eliminate and re-route via attic or ceiling with pex. We never jack hammer. I have done hundreds of them. Its great money and customers prefer not jack hammering. I use air to locate outside underground leaks too but our water services are typically about 1-2' deep.


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## JoshJ (May 10, 2012)

*le Dremel*

The dremel I purchased today. Went with an electric cause I don't feel like dragging the compressor into a house every time I need it.


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

JoshJ said:


> The dremel I purchased today. Went with an electric cause I don't feel like dragging the compressor into a house every time I need it.


I believe that is the one I own. Good tool. Grab a cord on the way in and your good to go.


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## The bear (Sep 27, 2012)

Tommy plumber said:


> Do you do alot of leak detection? The companies I worked for always subbed out that work. Even today, I sub out that work usually (unless I open walls and start cutting and capping manifolds). Are the headphones and other gear costly? If not, I'll do my own slab leak detection. American Leak Detection is who I/we have always used.
> 
> If memory serves me correctly, (15) gallons an hour is the minimum that can be detected; really small pinhole leaks could not be found. Is that accurate?


Yes I do a lot of leak detection and under slab repair. I use locating equipment and nitrogen to locate. I have been locating slab leaks with electronics for 19 years. We do not open walls or cap manifolds.Normally locate and repair 2 to 3 hrs.We also get tiny pinholes on copper manifolds in stud walls and outside block walls. Some of the small pinholes do not even register on the water meters leak indicators.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

The bear said:


> Yes I do a lot of leak detection and under slab repair. I use locating equipment and nitrogen to locate. I have been locating slab leaks with electronics for 19 years. We do not open walls or cap manifolds.Normally locate and repair 2 to 3 hrs.We also get tiny pinholes on copper manifolds in stud walls and outside block walls. Some of the small pinholes do not even register on the water meters leak indicators.


 How do you locate and repair in only 2 to 3 hours? How are you making the repair? Where are you introducing the nitrogen if you do not open walls or cut into manifolds? You have got me intrigued. I have been doing leak detection for about 8 years and have always re-routed.


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## Epox (Sep 19, 2010)

My customers are always relieved I won't be busting into floor. This assumes residential of course.


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## The bear (Sep 27, 2012)

Rerouting has never been popular in my area unless it is a total repipe.Normally it is break slab and make repair.


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## mightypipe (Dec 22, 2012)

The bear said:


> Rerouting has never been popular in my area unless it is a total repipe.Normally it is break slab and make repair.


Why not? I haven't repaired a residential slab leak in the floor since the 90's. insurance companies out here prefer re-route every time... Except maybe on flat roof houses.


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## The bear (Sep 27, 2012)

mightypipe said:


> Why not? I haven't repaired a residential slab leak in the floor since the 90's. insurance companies out here prefer re-route every time here... Except maybe on flat roof houses.


Most of are locate and repair is less than homeowners deductible in my area.
Some customers fail to grasp that fixing a leak in the slab is only a temporary solution to a bigger problem. I present all options to my customer and let them decide how they want to precede. The only time that changes is when customer and I don't agree on how work should be performed. Example: Customer calls late Friday and states she has a bowl stoppage. Upon arrival toilet has backed up into tub indicating main sewer line blockage. She precedes to tell me that this has happened before and plumbers go on roof and clear from vent stack. I look at roof and see a 11/2 vent stack. I tell her that I will not clear a 4" main line thru a 11/2 stack. If I do it I am going to locate main line coming out of house,open cleanout and run k1500.She tells me no one can find it and their is no cleanout. So I locate line,dig down and chisel off co plug and rod line. I also check in front of cleanout and determine pipe changes to orangeburg tar paper pipe.
Customer now knows what is causing her blockage problems and how much she needs to budget to replace line to street. I was also able to determine new addition on home was put over existing tar paper sewer. She than understood why I do not clean main lines from roof vents.


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## mightypipe (Dec 22, 2012)

The bear said:


> Most of are locate and repair is less than homeowners deductible in my area.
> Some customers fail to grasp that fixing a leak in the slab is only a temporary solution to a bigger problem. I present all options to my customer and let them decide how they want to precede. The only time that changes is when customer and I don't agree on how work should be performed. Example: Customer calls late Friday and states she has a bowl stoppage. Upon arrival toilet has backed up into tub indicating main sewer line blockage. She precedes to tell me that this has happened before and plumbers go on roof and clear from vent stack. I look at roof and see a 11/2 vent stack. I tell her that I will not clear a 4" main line thru a 11/2 stack. If I do it I am going to locate main line coming out of house,open cleanout and run k1500.She tells me no one can find it and their is no cleanout. So I locate line,dig down and chisel off co plug and rod line. I also check in front of cleanout and determine pipe changes to orangeburg tar paper pipe.
> Customer now knows what is causing her blockage problems and how much she needs to budget to replace line to street. I was also able to determine new addition on home was put over existing tar paper sewer. She than understood why I do not clean main lines from roof vents.


Insurance companies here won't pay for the actual brazing of a pinhole and a coupling, but pay for everything else... Tile, drywall damaged by water, baseboards, cabinets, concrete, dry-out contractor, location of leak, etc... The actual repair of the pipe might be less than their deductible, but the rest of it wouldn't be would it? Hell, the dry-out is usually more than $1000 out here by itself... How much do you get for a slab leak repair and locate?


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## The bear (Sep 27, 2012)

mightypipe said:


> Insurance companies here won't pay for the actual brazing of a pinhole and a coupling, but pay for everything else... Tile, drywall damaged by water, baseboards, cabinets, concrete, dry-out contractor, location of leak, etc... The actual repair of the pipe might be less than their deductible, but the rest of it wouldn't be would it? Hell, the dry-out is usually more than $1000 out here by itself... How much do you get for a slab leak repair and locate?


A lot of our slab leaks have no water damage water running into sand under slab. Insurance will not cover they consider it maintenance of the home. Some times customer has no idea he has a leak until utility company notifies
them. Pm me about pricing.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

I moved the posts about slab leak location to Residential plumbing so this thread can continue with original poster's intent to discuss sawzall and dremmel tools.


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