# Pilot won't stay lit on Giant Water heater



## Supernaut (May 24, 2015)

I went out to a call for a Giant water heater which had a pilot that won't stay lit. I went out, observed what it was doing. I switched out the thermocouple for a new one I had on board my truck. Restarted the water heater a few times. Everything seemed to be working right, safety shut down was a pass. I was on my way.

On Saturday morning I get a phone call that the same issue is persisting. I can't go and deal with it because I'm not the guy on call this weekend. But worse is that the resident has to get this dealt with through the landlord company they are renting from who contacts the plumbing company I work for. Their land lord will probably not deal with this all weekend and leave them with no hot water till Monday.

I didn't see water leakage under there making the thermocouple wet. Does anyone else have a probable idea why this problem continues?
I've been working for this company for 1 week and would like to stay employed there. This situation is rather discouraging.


----------



## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

I smell a BS artist.


----------



## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Ya think?:laughing:


----------



## plumberkc (Jun 23, 2011)

Supernaut said:


> I went out to a call for a Giant water heater which had a pilot that won't stay lit. I went out, observed what it was doing. I switched out the thermocouple for a new one I had on board my truck. Restarted the water heater a few times. Everything seemed to be working right, safety shut down was a pass. I was on my way.
> 
> On Saturday morning I get a phone call that the same issue is persisting. I can't go and deal with it because I'm not the guy on call this weekend. But worse is that the resident has to get this dealt with through the landlord company they are renting from who contacts the plumbing company I work for. Their land lord will probably not deal with this all weekend and leave them with no hot water till Monday.
> 
> ...



This problem is sometimes caused by a faulty T&P valve that has become blocked with sediment. 

You just need to make sure it's working properly, if not just replace it and be on your way.


----------



## Supernaut (May 24, 2015)

Unless I'm misreading the room here, I ask a legitimate question just to get trolled?


----------



## Hillside (Jan 22, 2010)

Your misreading the site rules first off

2nd of all we have some big ass waterheaters here too


----------



## Supernaut (May 24, 2015)

Hillside said:


> Your misreading the site rules first off
> 
> 2nd of all we have some big ass waterheaters here too


Introduction is now posted. I don't see any other rules I am in violation of.


----------



## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Thanks for that intro...

When the burner was lit did it look like the combustion air was sufficient?
Also the safety "Pass" had the FVIR reset switch on the burner door panel tripped?

If the air is sufficient, the flame arrestor not clogged with dust & lint, and the FVIR reset switch hasn't activated, then my next question would be if you have the old style gas valve or the newer Honeywell gas valve?


----------



## Supernaut (May 24, 2015)

The air did look sufficient with a nice proper flame and the unit pretty clean inside. I can't remember which style of gas valve it had.

I can't say for sure about the FVIR. In fact I was not at all familiar with FVIR until I just Google searched it a little while ago and read up on some pages. I must say that I'm shocked I have not been educated on the matter in school, or at least by an employer or co worker...etc somewhere along the way. In reality I have installed several water heaters but have done little in the way of repairing them. Its unclear but some pages seem to suggest that FVIR became standard much later in Canada.

This unit has the sealed chamber of an FVIR system. I however don't remember there being wiring beyond the basics to make a water heater function, or a switch on the door. I would guess there must be a switch somewhere.

In any case there is a good chance I'll be sent back out on Monday and have to figure out the matter.


----------



## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

Oh boy


----------



## dhal22 (Jul 30, 2010)

I must say, I've done a bit of on the job learning myself but I think your company should be sending out a qualified plumber. At a minimum call the manufacturer while onsite.


----------



## sierra2000 (Sep 19, 2011)

Switching from construction to service comes with a learning curve for most. When I made the switch with not much service experience it came pretty easy for me for some reason. Like the previous post says, you're best bet may be to call the manufacture when you're on site and see if they can walk you through it.
What's giant? Is this a 40 gallon or 100 gallon? 
I once found a lizard that crawled into the burner chamber and got stuck halfway in and got roasted but was causing a restriction for the gas.


----------



## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

sierra2000 said:


> Switching from construction to service comes with a learning curve for most. When I made the switch with not much service experience it came pretty easy for me for some reason. Like the previous post says, you're best bet may be to call the manufacture when you're on site and see if they can walk you through it.
> What's giant? Is this a 40 gallon or 100 gallon?
> I once found a lizard that crawled into the burner chamber and got stuck halfway in and got roasted but was causing a restriction for the gas.


Yum!


----------



## sierra2000 (Sep 19, 2011)

Tasted like chicken.


----------



## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Supernaut said:


> The air did look sufficient with a nice proper flame and the unit pretty clean inside. I can't remember which style of gas valve it had.
> 
> I can't say for sure about the FVIR. In fact I was not at all familiar with FVIR until I just Google searched it a little while ago and read up on some pages. I must say that I'm shocked I have not been educated on the matter in school, or at least by an employer or co worker...etc somewhere along the way. In reality I have installed several water heaters but have done little in the way of repairing them. Its unclear but some pages seem to suggest that FVIR became standard much later in Canada.
> 
> ...


 Sent back?? This time, bring along the hydronic heating service person..


----------



## Supernaut (May 24, 2015)

sierra2000 said:


> Switching from construction to service comes with a learning curve for most. When I made the switch with not much service experience it came pretty easy for me for some reason. Like the previous post says, you're best bet may be to call the manufacture when you're on site and see if they can walk you through it.
> What's giant? Is this a 40 gallon or 100 gallon?
> I once found a lizard that crawled into the burner chamber and got stuck halfway in and got roasted but was causing a restriction for the gas.



Its a 40 gal

And yes. Switching from construction plumbing to service plumbing has pretty much been like starting over in an entirely new trade almost. When you just install a water heater you don't really take any regard into how every little component works, and consequently don't learn much in the process.

Giant is a brand name, in case anyone has mistaken that for a description of the water tank size.


----------



## bdaltonph (Nov 23, 2014)

Have you checked your gas pressure with a manometer? Have any new gas appliances been added that may be overloading the system?


----------



## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Supernaut said:


> Giant is a brand name, in case anyone has mistaken that for a description of the water tank size.


Yep! Recognized them as a popular Canadian Brand and looked them up...

They look like the FVIR Design is very similar to Bradford White as is the Honeywell controls and gas valve...

The one major exception to the above seems to be where the Bradford White/Honeywell Icon Valve uses a "Thermopile" which serves as a pilot flame sensor and generates the electrical power to run the electronic controls. The Giant Water Heaters have 120 VAC power supplied to the unit with a transformer stepping down to 24 VAC to run the controls...

Here is the Installation Manual for the "Old Style." 
Here is the Parts List for the "Old Style."

Here is the Installation Manual for the "New Style."
The Parts List for the "New Style" is not available for download yet. (Linked to an "Under Construction Page."

The old style I'd suspect without having a gas delivery problem or combustion air or flue problem, either a weak thermocouple voltage or a weak magnet in the gas valve.

The new style without knowing more about its operation I can't say anything...


----------



## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

Redwood. thanks for the links and info

this electronically operated damper I have seen already on a whirlpool water heater in my nephews house ..they look like they will be big trouble to me.
you are not going to be able to get parts for this stuff when it breaks down
especially the Whirlpool heaters....

...... I am waiting for the day that it will fail and I will be called to attempt to service this peice of junk.....

I probably will tear it out and install a rheem when it goes down

I personally cant see how the damper is going to save a ton of money 
for all the extra things that might go wrong on this unit


----------



## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Master Mark said:


> I personally cant see how the damper is going to save a ton of money
> for all the extra things that might go wrong on this unit


LOL Yea... I guess the heat loss in a gas water heater up the flue is nothing...:laughing:

Just the difference between .59 EF and .68 EF is all...


----------



## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

bdaltonph said:


> Have you checked your gas pressure with a manometer? Have any new gas appliances been added that may be overloading the system?


I had a newly installed Bradford White intermittently dropping out the pilot, tenant had gas co out and said faulty gas valve on WH. I put my manometer on valve and was getting fluctuating pressure. The valve only has outlet pressure tap. Went to furnace and installed manometer on inlet pressure tap, with no appliances calling for gas, pressure creeped to 16" WC, turned on furnace and watched pressure drop to 0. Gas company came back and changed their regulator and all is well


----------



## HonestPlumb (Jan 25, 2015)

That is the Gas Company's answer for every problem. Anything that they do not have to work on !! Had the same issue on a hot water boiler. They actually argued "after the guy came out. It was their meter. Only took a day for the customer not to have heat in the middle of winter. I wont say every guy that works for them is a dunce, but some of them are incredible !!


----------



## dhal22 (Jul 30, 2010)

It took 3 times for me to get the gas company to admit that their meter/regulator was giving high pressure. Idiots.


----------

