# Cutting-in a C.I. fitting



## Tommy plumber

Had to cut a cast iron stack today to install a 3"x2" tapped tee so I can install a laundry connection. The copper drain line and the hot and cold water lines will be run behind a bathtub.


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## Michaelcookplum

Nice! Snap cutters and ratchet cutters probably didnt fit there. What did u use? Lenox cast iron saw zaw blade?


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## Tommy plumber

Michaelcookplum said:


> Nice! Snap cutters and ratchet cutters probably didnt fit there. What did u use? Lenox cast iron saw zaw blade?


 



I was able to get a grinder for the bottom cut, then for the top cut, I used a grinder for some of the cut and a sawzall with the diamond grit blace (Lennox) to finish it. In front of the cast iron is going to be a bathtub. The 2" copper male adapter is going to wrap around the tub to pick up a laundry in another room.


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## sikxsevn

A right angle grinder and either a diamond wheel or oxide cutoff wheel goes through CI like a hot knife through butter


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## PLUMBER_BILL

*Caution On This Type Of Work.*



Tommy plumber said:


> Had to cut a cast iron stack today to install a 3"x2" tapped tee so I can install a laundry connection. The copper drain line and the hot and cold water lines will be run behind a bathtub.


*On old cast iron work... Removing a section and inserting a tee, wye or just replacing a piece of pipe. In old work you have a lot of pressure [force on the pipe] XH weighed 12 lbs. per foot couple this with the lead used in the hubs. You as a repair replacement plumber must control this force. DON'T IN ANY WAY THINK YOU CAN CUT A STACK AND INSET A FITTING [PIECE OF PIPE] ON THE FLY YOU MUST SUPPORT THE PIPE OR RISK COLLAPSE DAMAGES LIKE NEVER BEFORE. When it comes down it comes down a hellen. It's nothing to destroy a second floor bath. Ruin floors, take down ceilings and top it off with an insurance company thar pulls custody and control. To the guys that never worked with hub and spickot cast iron, even no/hub coming down will make you wish you did not become a plumber. One way is to make a set of jacks. Mine are made from EMT tubing with 3/4" allthread ...The adjustment is made by turning the 3/4" nut against 2 washers whick are oil lubed. 2 or 3 of these installed againts a riser clamp usually sufices ... How do I know this ... **EXPERIENCE!*


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## U666A

PLUMBER_BILL said:


> On old cast iron work... Removing a section and inserting a tee, wye or just replacing a piece of pipe. In old work you have a lot of pressure [force on the pipe] XH weighed 12 lbs. per foot couple this with the lead used in the hubs. You as a repair replacement plumber must control this force. DON'T IN ANY WAY THINK YOU CAN CUT A STACK AND INSET A FITTING [PIECE OF PIPE] ON THE FLY YOU MUST SUPPORT THE PIPE OR RISK COLLAPSE DAMAGES LIKE NEVER BEFORE. When it comes down it comes down a hellen. It's nothing to destroy a second floor bath. Ruin floors, take down ceilings and top it off with an insurance company thar pulls custody and control. To the guys that never worked with hub and spickot cast iron, even no/hub coming down will make you wish you did not become a plumber. One way is to make a set of jacks. Mine are made from EMT tubing with 3/4" allthread ...The adjustment is made by turning the 3/4" nut against 2 washers whick are oil lubed. 2 or 3 of these installed againts a riser clamp usually sufices ... How do I know this ... EXPERIENCE!


Very wise Bill... Let me make sure I understand the scenario. You are sang that without proper support, cutting into a stack could result in (due to a possible lack of support) in the entire lower portion crashing down, right?

I have never witnessed this first hand, but have heard many stories to this effect.

And if that run turns horizontal, and is supported from the slab, better hope that the first drop in anchor was set correctly.

If the momentum is great enough to pull down the first one, especially on H&S, it can all come crashing down!

My current partner (63-1/2) told me a similar story a year or so ago about a Reno he was doing in a hotel 10-12 years ago where they had to cut in a San tee for a bar sink. Cut all the way through the pipe and a minute or two later he heard the groaning...

Over 100' of 4" cast came through the drop ceiling of the conference center corridor on the floor below.

It would have been more, he said, if it weren't for the cable tray that crossed just under that line...

He was very lucky that this work was going on in the evening, many people could have been injured otherwise...

It's stories like that which make it hard for me to trust friction riser clamps. The local code says 7.5m or every other story, but for anything 4" and up, I put them every floor.

If running steel pipe, I'll often tack the clamp to the pipe as well. Some might call this overkill, but it's an insurance policy in my eyes, and worth the few extra minutes.

Great post Bill! :thumbup:


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## SewerRatz

When we cut stacks, we always add additional friction clamps at each floor to ensure the stack will not drop on us. I had this happened once in my life time. I was 16 years old on a job with my brother and he cut a 2" line which happened to run to the roof. Once cut it dropped 4" did minimal damage, pulled the sink trap of the kitchen sink above us and pulled out of the roof flashing. Took us 2 hours to get it back in place and properly supported.

So take Plumber Bill's warning to heart, and ensure what you are cutting is very well supported.


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## PLUMBER_BILL

U666A said:


> Very wise Bill... Let me make sure I understand the scenario. You are sang that without proper support, cutting into a stack could result in (due to a possible lack of support) in the entire lower portion crashing down, right?<snip>
> 
> *Your reply dictates commercial. There is a benefit that there would be riser clamps. Now in residental the stack is probably supporting itself or a few wooden wedges were installed and which have since rotted away. Cut a stack in the basement and you might have the whole stack in the basement including the vent through the roof.*
> *Anybody interested I'll post a photo of the jacks I made.*


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## U666A

I would love to see those pics Bill, thank you.


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## PLUMBER_BILL

PLUMBER_BILL said:


> U666A said:
> 
> 
> 
> Very wise Bill... Let me make sure I understand the scenario. You are sang that without proper support, cutting into a stack could result in (due to a possible lack of support) in the entire lower portion crashing down, right?<snip>
> 
> *I'll post a photo of the jacks I made.*
> *Here are jack rods ... EMT is cheap 1/2" rod with jumbo nuts has tremendous jacking power. A bolt on riser clamp is shown.*
> 
> *2nd photo shows them full lenght. Need larger cut the EMT longer.*
> 
> *Also works when you need a temporary support*.
Click to expand...


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## cityplumbing

I usually take a riser clamp and install on the pipe in the same room i'm working band hang a 2x4 across the studs and let the riser clamp sit on the 2x4. After my work is done I remove the set-up. I usually do this in residential homes with one or two stories..


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## Greenguy

Those look like regular rod stiffeners, I understand a bit thicker rod. A decent idea all the same I tend to use 3/4" all round strapping before I cut into a line CI or gas lines. Makes for easy removal in a tight spot.


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## Tommy plumber

Couple more pics from the same job.


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## Michaelcookplum

I appreciate quality work ! 
Any reason you didn't adapt to PVC at any point? And what is the top cast iron tee going to?


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## Tommy plumber

Michaelcookplum said:


> I appreciate quality work !
> Any reason you didn't adapt to PVC at any point? And what is the top cast iron tee going to?


 




Can't use PVC in this bldg because it's a condo. This particular town won't allow any combustible material in the walls or floors.

The top tee is picking up a lav drain. I had to cut out the 1 1/4" copper drain line in order to fit the tub. After I set the tub, I'll re-connect the 1 1/4" drain.


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## GREENPLUM

that washbox is plastic and not fire rated, 









696R2313MF Fire-Rated Ox Box™
Washing Machine Outlet Box 
with Mini-Rester Water Hammer Arresters



Boxes mount securely to stud
Separates supply and drainage systems into two stud bays
Supply lines can be mounted from above or below
High-quality quarter-turn ball valves with ¾" male hose-thread outlet connections


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## Tommy plumber

Thanks GreenPlum, I guess I have gotten away in the past because on other re-models I installed the plastic ones and was never busted. I might have to replace the W/M box with the metal one. Good catch...:thumbsup:


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## Jchar5147

Are those 2" copper dwv 90's? They don't look like it on my phone. Also you have 270 degrees on your trap arm, where's the clean out? And is that trap arm longer than 5'?


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## Tommy plumber

Jchar5147 said:


> Are those 2" copper dwv 90's? They don't look like it on my phone. Also you have 270 degrees on your trap arm, where's the clean out? And is that trap arm longer than 5'?


 




Yes, 2" copper DWV drainage fittings. 


And yes, waste arm is longer than 5'. It's closer to 7'.

Not enough room for a c.o. in cast iron stack under the 3"x2" tapped tee. Usually in condos they don't fail for no c.o. This condo is on the 4th floor. By the way, the 2" copper waste line is running behind a tub so I couldn't have that line too high or it wouldn't be hidden by the bathtub.


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## Jchar5147

Things are different every where, but in l.a. (where I do most of my work), you can only go 5' on a 2" trap arm. And once i pass 135 degrees on a trap arm I'm required to put a clean out on the trap arm.


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## Jchar5147

Not trying to rip apart your work, sorry. Just curious.


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## Tommy plumber

As far as the (3) 90 degree turns on the waste arm, the cast iron stack I'm tying into was the closest. The owner wants the laundry in the room where I roughed it in. In fact the print shows the washer and dryer somewhere else in this condo. I kept telling him and his assistant they need to get the prints revised showing the new location of the washer and dryer. But I don't know when the revision will be done. I told them the rough plumbing inspection will fail without the revised print on the job. 

The other week I was in this condo when an inspector showed up. The owner called it in for a framing inspection. I wasn't half done with my 2nd rough plumbing yet so of course it failed framing. You should've seen the look on the assistant's face when she heard it failed after she and her boss man sat there waiting hours for the inspector to show up....


Oh well, this is what happens when people decide to manage a re-model and they've never done it before...:laughing:


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## Tommy plumber

Jchar5147 said:


> Things are different every where, but in l.a. (where I do most of my work), you can only go 5' on a 2" trap arm. And once i pass 135 degrees on a trap arm I'm required to put a clean out on the trap arm.


 




Our code allows us up to 8' on a 2" drain line. Maybe this town will want a c.o. on the 2" drain line, I'll find out when I call it in for an inspection.


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## Jchar5147

I couldn't agree more. I hate dealing with homeowners trying to run construction jobs. The worst is when they get your number. Typically I deal with the contractor only. I'll b.s. With anyone, but As far as work goes, They talk to the contractor, then the contractor talks to me. **laughing**. I only deal with homeowners if I'm billing them direct. The last homeowner run job I was on sucked. All the trades came in out of order and we all worked on top of each other. And let's not even get started on when they have a friend who's a designer. ***ugh***


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## Jchar5147

How far can you go with 11/2"?


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## Tommy plumber

Jchar5147 said:


> How far can you go with 11/2"?


 




This is out of our code book.


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## SewerRatz

Here is some pictures from Where am I and his crew cutting in a fitting in some cast iron.


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## SewerRatz

and here are the rest.


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## Tommy plumber

Looks good brother. I love seeing pictures of people's work on the PZone...:thumbsup:


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## Tommy plumber

Ron, I just noticed how long the hub is on that top fitting ( the larger diameter pipe). Why's that? Transition fitting or something?


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## SewerRatz

Tommy plumber said:


> Ron, I just noticed how long the hub is on that top fitting ( the larger diameter pipe). Why's that? Transition fitting or something?


 Thats a sision <sp>? fitting. Its so you can slid it up high enough out of the way to install the fitting you want then slide it back in place. No Ferncos or no-hub couplings allowed.


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## Jchar5147

Here's mine. I wish I had those distances. There's been several occasions where I relocated a toilet and had to run a new vent due to the distance.


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## Tommy plumber

SewerRatz said:


> Thats a sision <sp>? fitting. Its so you can slid it up high enough out of the way to install the fitting you want then slide it back in place. No Ferncos or no-hub couplings allowed.


 



Oh right, no play up or down in the original vertical stack.


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## Jchar5147

Sewerratz, why can't you use no hub?


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## SewerRatz

Not allowed in Chicago.


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## Jchar5147

As much as that sucks, it's also pretty *****in. It weeds out the numbnutz. Any one can tighten a band. Looks clean. I wish I had the opportunity to do some hub pipe.do you need to get certified to install?


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## SewerRatz

Jchar5147 said:


> As much as that sucks, it's also pretty *****in. It weeds out the numbnutz. Any one can tighten a band. Looks clean. I wish I had the opportunity to do some hub pipe.do you need to get certified to install?


Just need your plumbing license. Pouring a lead joint is part of the test. To me pouring a joint is second nature. Been doing it with my dad since I was a kid. When I went to Southern IL to take my state test, the tester commented on my pour saying "You must be from Chicago" I asked why, and he said the guys outside of Chicago rarely ever pour a joint so they do not have the practice like I did.

It does look good, but it is also for safety that they require the joints to be poured and no rubber seals or no-hub. In a fire the firemen do not want cast iron falling on them due to the rubber melting out at low temps.


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## Jchar5147

Makes sense about the safety.


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## Redwood

SewerRatz said:


> It does look good, but it is also for safety that they require the joints to be poured and no rubber seals or no-hub. *In a fire the firemen do not want cast iron falling on them due to the rubber melting out at low temps.*


Interesting to hear that false logic...

The heat of a fire is enough to melt out the lead as well....:laughing:


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## Jchar5147

Redwood said:


> Interesting to hear that false logic...
> 
> The heat of a fire is enough to melt out the lead as well....:laughing:


Seems like if it did melt the led, you still have cast iron pipe inside a cast iron hub.


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## SewerRatz

Redwood said:


> Interesting to hear that false logic...
> 
> The heat of a fire is enough to melt out the lead as well....:laughing:


 What Jchar5147 said, and the fact it takes longer for the lead to melt out verse a rubber gasket.


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## BROOKLYN\PLUMB

Redwood said:


> Interesting to hear that false logic...
> 
> The heat of a fire is enough to melt out the lead as well....:laughing:


And it keeps coming 
Don't you support the pipe 

Hubbed pipe is heavier 

Hubs with gasket won't fall according to your theory 

And won't the stainless collar of a nh coupling leave less room to slip out after melted then a hub

Don't get me wrong love job security 
But let's not spread trade school theories about safety


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## Jchar5147

BROOKLYN\PLUMB said:


> And it keeps coming
> Don't you support the pipe
> 
> Hubbed pipe is heavier
> 
> Hubs with gasket won't fall according to your theory
> 
> And won't the stainless collar of a nh coupling leave less room to slip out after melted then a hub
> 
> Don't get me wrong love job security
> But let's not spread trade school theories about safety


Since I've never dealt with Hubbed or hubless pipe after they've been in a fire, all I can do is speculate. 

I agree that with the led melted out, the gap is larger than a shield with the rubber melted out. And assuming that both types of piping were strapped in accordance with local code the support wouldn't fall burden to the sealing method. But if you had two pieces of pipe joined by a shield with a 1/8" - 3/16" gap between the shield and the pipe, and two pieces of hubless joined but not sealed, and picked them both up by the ends, I'd feel more comfortable walking under the Hubbed pipe. 

And let's not forget that a loose shield can slide freely. Where a empty Hubbed joint can't.


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## Redwood

Jchar5147 said:


> Seems like if it did melt the led, you still have cast iron pipe inside a cast iron hub.


Why yes you would...

So the what is the problem with a Ty-Seal? :whistling2:

Won't the hub still hold it in place then? :whistling2:

The real thing that the fire fighters need is the pipes to be adequately supported so they stay up for a while....

At least until the rest of the building starts going all to hell and it's time to get out and turn into a surround and drown firefighting operation...

Let the fire burn long enough and everything will come down... :yes:


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## Protech

Tommy plumber said:


> Can't use PVC in this bldg because it's a condo. *This particular town won't allow any combustible material in the walls or floors*.
> 
> The top tee is picking up a lav drain. I had to cut out the 1 1/4" copper drain line in order to fit the tub. After I set the tub, I'll re-connect the 1 1/4" drain.


So I guess the sparkys are running knob 'n tube wire then eh? Can't have any of that pesky vinyl conductor insulation inside those walls :whistling2:


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## Protech

Redwood said:


> Why yes you would...
> 
> So the what is the problem with a Ty-Seal? :whistling2:
> 
> Won't the hub still hold it in place then? :whistling2:
> 
> The real thing that the fire fighters need is the pipes to be adequately supported so they stay up for a while....
> 
> At least until the rest of the building starts going all to hell and it's time to get out and turn into a surround and drown firefighting operation...
> 
> Let the fire burn long enough and everything will come down... :yes:


The whole thing is just union BS to keep lead and oakum alive. Why not just hang plastic if they are so worried about falling iron? "oh, because plastic makes nasty smoke when it burns." 

Ever take a torch to lead and oakum cast iron? That bituminous coating produces some nasty smoke FAST.




Also, If you have a fire burning long enough and hot enough in ceilings to start burning cast iron out of no-hub bands or grommets, I think we can safely say the poo has hit the fan already and the buildings structural integrity has already been compromised. Any fire fighter crazy enough to stick around in a blaze that hot is gonna get killed one way or another.

Further, if it was really just about safety and not union interests, they could just put a stipulation in the code for continuous support of any non-leaded cast iron pipes in the ceilings. But again, we all know what it's all about.


Yet another work around: Wrapping pvc with fiberglass insulation or even foamed glass.


IT AIN'T ABOUT SAFTEY, IT'S ABOUT UNIONS KEEPING MAN-HOURS UP AND UNION BENCHES EMPTY! PERIOD.


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## Redwood

Protech said:


> The whole thing is just union BS to keep lead and oakum alive. Why not just hang plastic if they are so worried about falling iron? "oh, because plastic makes nasty smoke when it burns."


What nasty smoke? :whistling2:


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## Jchar5147

Redwood said:


> The real thing that the fire fighters need is the pipes to be adequately supported so they stay up for a while....
> 
> Agreed, it all comes down to the strapping


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## SewerRatz

Nasty smoke, melts quickly and allows a pathway for the fire to move between floors. 

I should point out that PVC is allowed in residential units that are 3 stories or less and or 6 families or less.


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## Redwood

SewerRatz said:


> Nasty smoke, melts quickly and allows a pathway for the fire to move between floors.
> 
> I should point out that PVC is allowed in residential units that are 3 stories or less and or 6 families or less.


Plastics are a definite problem when it comes to fires. The temperature increase and speed of the fire progression from incipient stage to flashover has increased dramatically since even 1960 or, 1970...

*Think of everything in your home that in years past was made of materials like wood, glass, metal, and wool or, cotton....*

What are you drinking water out of right now? A plastic cup or, a plastic bottle? :whistling2:

How is that polyester shirt holding up that you have on? Or the carpet or, the drapes, or the comforter on the bed?

I remember in high school repairing TV sets that were in wooden cabinets and had a metal chassis and glass vacuum tubes... What is your TV made of?

Or the computer you are typing on....

Heck the deck of my porch has "Boards" made out of recycled plastic!

In the video below watch the progression of the fire to flashover in a sparsely furnished room with one wall completely open... 
(Don't mind the popping hoses their budget was cut)






About 4 minutes to flashover from ignition. In reality the real world situation in a home today with the typical plastics loading will be 2 minutes or less.
When the room flashes there is no one alive in there. Even a firefighter in full protective gear and an air pack will be quickly dying....

Now the plastic piping in a home comprises less that 1% of the total plastic in the home! Also most of it is inside of walls and ceilings that have some degree of fire rating or, fire resistant construction practices.

PVC does not burn unless it is in contact with flame. However, it does not meet the 20-50 testing standard on it own but can when insulated and this is not new news. Try reading "Can insulated plastic piping meet the 25/50 requirement? part way down on the linked page.

As for fire stop materials that maintain the rating of walls and ceilings many can be found at this link.

http://tinyurl.com/3cz5z7u

So yes it is "Good Old Chicago Politics," "Union Protectionism," & "Missinformation" cut and dry, plain and simple.


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## where am i

*Cutting in a c i Fitting*

Hello everyone

hears my two cents.the fire safety thing worked good 40 years ago
but now they make everything out of plastic.You don't see 7 story block 
long building burning down anymore.what I do see and this is just me
is that the multistory building in the surrounding suburbs done in 
plastic and or no hub. They need a lot more repair. I think it's because of the way 
the temperature changes out here. And the fact that we have to drill
down 40 to 80 feet to hit bed rock to support building out here. 
you can get a 30 to 40 degree temperature change in hours out here.

We have a 30 story coming out of the ground and because of the cost of copper
there are doing all the waste & vent in galvanized 

we've been doing lead & oakum since god was a kid. that's the Chicago way 

Rich


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## Tommy plumber

Michaelcookplum said:


> I appreciate quality work !
> Any reason you didn't adapt to PVC at any point? And what is the top cast iron tee going to?[/QUOTE]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top tapped tee is for an 1 1/4" lav drain. The copper waste arm needed to be removed in order to set the tub.


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## Tommy plumber

Some other pictures.


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## Tommy plumber

The tub is of course 60" long, but the opening for it measures only 59" wide. I had to chisel this plaster substance off the wall because the tub wouldn't fit. Then the tub was hitting the 1 1/4" waste arm so that had to be removed. There is always something that comes up in a project that you did not forsee.


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## cityplumbing

Your a fan of those sharkbite caps also Tommy?


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## cityplumbing

Tommy plumber said:


> The tub is of course 60" long, but the opening for it measures only 59" wide. I had to chisel this plaster substance off the wall because the tub wouldn't fit. Then the tub was hitting the 1 1/4" waste arm so that had to be removed. There is always something that comes up in a project that you did not forsee.


 
And I thought I was the only one..:laughing:


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## Tommy plumber

cityplumbing said:


> Your a fan of those sharkbite caps also Tommy?


 




Yes in the application for a re-model where they are on only temporarily. But for the tubspout stub-out, I used a copper cap so the tile guy can make a nice, small, neat hole in his tile.


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## Tommy plumber

Protech said:


> So I guess the sparkys are running knob 'n tube wire then eh? Can't have any of that pesky vinyl conductor insulation inside those walls :whistling2:


 




You're correct. The electrician is (was) allowed to install that blue smurf conduit. I thought the same thing when I was told about not being able to install any combustible materials in the walls. The electrician passed his rough inspection with flexible plastic conduit installed in the walls yet the plumber is told he can't use PVC.


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## Tommy plumber

View from behind bathtub.


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## Tommy plumber

Passed 2nd rough. Now where's my check?


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## BROOKLYN\PLUMB

Nice I like the green ticket all we get here is a print out receipts like from a cashier


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## Tommy plumber

So my customer calls me today to install a toilet. OK. He's supplying. OK, I'll be there to do the installation.

Well. I get there at 4:30. Toilet is in the bathroom not boxed. When I check, it's the dreaded Toto that needs their special flange mounted to the floor...:yes:

I ask my customer where is the box? His answer was unitelligble (or else I can't recall it now, one of the two).

So I call the supply house. They ask me if the gentleman who purchased the W/C today bought their showroom display floor model, I ask my customer and he says 'Yeah.' So I ask the supply house guy, "Where is the mounting bracket for this Toto?" 

"Oh can I have your number and name so I can call you back?" he responds.

So now I am like...:furious:

Long story short, I have to go to supply house at 5:00 to get the bracket to install the Toto.


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## Widdershins

Tommy plumber said:


> So my customer calls me today to install a toilet. OK. He's supplying. OK, I'll be there to do the installation.
> 
> Well. I get there at 4:30. Toilet is in the bathroom not boxed. When I check, it's the dreaded Toto that needs their special flange mounted to the floor...:yes:
> 
> I ask my customer where is the box? His answer was unitelligble (or else I can't recall it now, one of the two).
> 
> So I call the supply house. They ask me if the gentleman who purchased the W/C today bought their showroom display floor model, I ask my customer and he says 'Yeah.' So I ask the supply house guy, "Where is the mounting bracket for this Toto?"
> 
> "Oh can I have your number and name so I can call you back?" he responds.
> 
> So now I am like...:furious:
> 
> Long story short, I have to go to supply house at 5:00 to get the bracket to install the Toto.


 Return that 12" rough floor flange and tell them you need a 10" rough floor flange.

That's the beauty of those TOTO's -- Those floor flanges come in 10", 12" and 16".

You might have to special order it, but it's available.


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## Tommy plumber

The Toto fit, even though it's tight. In the past I thought I remembered those brackets being adjustable in 10" 12" or 14" roughs, but the sales guy gave me one that is only 12". The last time I set one of these was a while back, like 6 or 8 years back.


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## Tommy plumber

It just fit.


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## Widdershins

Tommy plumber said:


> It just fit.


 One more inch to the right on that angle stop and you would have had to go with a 10" floor flange.


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## Master Mark

*thanks for this post*

that model of toto looks like a pain in the ass...
I have installed dozens of TOTOs but have
not stumbled onto this style yet.....

I think I would have been a little peeved about it all
and I dont care for that set up at all.


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## evilcyrus

i did three of them........... took me awhile to mount due to the H/O tile he had gotten laid.. for the life of me i could not get thru it i used the *Core Diamond Drill Bits 
*








i managed to get thru in total 12 holes FML never again. thee hardest tile i've ever had to drill and he had it everywere..


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## Tommy plumber

evilcyrus said:


> i did three of them........... took me awhile to mount due to the H/O tile he had gotten laid.. for the life of me i could not get thru it i used the *Core Diamond Drill Bits *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i managed to get thru in total 12 holes FML never again. thee hardest tile i've ever had to drill and he had it everywere..


 




That's the worst part, drilling through the glazing on the tile. I ruined a masonry bit doing the install.


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## Tommy plumber

Master Mark said:


> that model of toto looks like a pain in the ass...
> I have installed dozens of TOTOs but have
> not stumbled onto this style yet.....
> 
> I think I would have been a little peeved about it all
> and I dont care for that set up at all.


 




If you see this model, you are fore-warned:


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## Redwood

As far as drilling the tile i have found the diamond bits pictured below work quite well on the harder tiles.

The Toto Unifit Adapter is far easier to install than most think, just make sure the angle stop is positioned correctly. I'd much rather see a Unifit adapter than a wide tank pushing the toilet further out into the room....


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## Tommy plumber

When I used to drill through tile in the past, I would first use a punch to break through the glazing on the tile, then use my masonry bit to drill. If you first can chip through the glaze on top, then drilling isn't so bad. The problem is that when you smack the tile with the punch, you risk cracking the tile...

But I like the set of diamond bits that you posted Redwood. I want to but a set of them.


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## Widdershins

Tommy plumber said:


> When I used to drill through tile in the past, I would first use a punch to break through the glazing on the tile, then use my masonry bit to drill. If you first can chip through the glaze on top, then drilling isn't so bad.
> 
> But I like the set of diamond bits that you posted Redwood. I want to but a set of them.


 Bosch makes a really good tri-point glass and tile bit.


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## Widdershins

Redwood said:


> As far as drilling the tile i have found the diamond bits pictured below work quite well on the harder tiles.
> 
> The Toto Unifit Adapter is far easier to install than most think, just make sure the angle stop is positioned correctly. I'd much rather see a Unifit adapter than a wide tank pushing the toilet further out into the room....


 I'm a big fan of the Unifits -- Having several different rough-in options makes 'em my go-to WC on remodels.


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## Tommy plumber

Widdershins said:


> Bosch makes a really good tri-point glass and tile bit.


 




Thanks Widdershins. I will be buying a set of those. You can't have too many tools, ya know...:thumbsup:


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## Tommy plumber

Trim for the Hans-Grohe shw. valve.


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## Tommy plumber

This was the valve during rough-in.


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## brass plumbing

do i see 90s on their sides? we use 45s horizontal & 90s vertical.


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## Tommy plumber

Finished up this job. Now looking for another one to keep me going....


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## PLUMBER_BILL

SewerRatz said:


> and here are the rest.


QUESTION ... Do they still furnish with a sission joint, the lead ring you hammer into the sission hub, to make a spickot for the ockum in the poured joint. We used a lot more Kafer Joints than Sissions.


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