# Another use for plumbers putty



## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

Today I installed two Kohler Cimmerons elongated comfort height.
At my age dexterity in my left hand is somthing to be desired.
Since the stroke the right hand is not much better, everthing went good on the first one, 2nd one was a bear -- very small bathroom almost no room on either side of toilet. Tank to bowl bolts in Kohlers patented mount -- washer would drop off the bolt while trying to catch the nut ... 
Has to be a better way so I filled a 1/2" deep socket with putty jammed the nut in the end of the socket balanced the washer, reached in and viola washer on bolt nut caught ... worked good.

Bolt shank was in the way on a 1/2" nut driver.


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## suzie (Sep 1, 2010)

Bill,

Your ingenuity is wonderful. To all you young bucks and does out there this is where time in the trade makes you a better plumber. Kudos and hats off a hole in one for Parr Plumbing!:thumbup:


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

A good plumber uses what he was taught and follows the directions and rules.

A great plumber has all that AND ingenuity and imagination.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

Mr. Bill, what did you set the bowls with though?

I also wonder if you use putty instead of wax, do you also roll putty around the outline of the bowl?

The way I was taught was to set the bowl with no putty on the flange and trace an outline of the bowls footprint on the floor. Then move the bowl and put the putty donut on the flange, then run a bead of putty along the inside of the traced line. Then set the bowl, tighten down and trim smooshed out putty along the porcelain.


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

SewerRatz said:


> Mr. Bill, what did you set the bowls with though?
> 
> I also wonder if you use putty instead of wax, do you also roll putty around the outline of the bowl?
> 
> The way I was taught was to set the bowl with no putty on the flange and trace an outline of the bowls footprint on the floor. Then move the bowl and put the putty donut on the flange, then run a bead of putty along the inside of the traced line. Then set the bowl, tighten down and trim smooshed out putty along the porcelain.


I on this job used wax [jumbo no-seep]. Why? When I pull a toilet if it was on wax I go back in with wax, always with a plastic horn. I also carry 4 sizes of Wolverine rubber, this is my preferable choice, but when wax is all over the place I don't want rubber sliding around. I too was taught to set on a ring of putty but in those days the china was different, the horn always was below the base of the toilet somtimes more than an inch. That has ended as you know. As to a putty ring around the base or caulking unless some inspector makes me [I never do it]. Why, if there is a seal leak I want the customer to see it. In my opinion retaining a seal leak behind caulking for a long time compounds the damage created.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

I was told it was not to retain the seal leak, it was to keep water on the floor from getting under the water closet from moping or shower water.

I had a job that had an uncaulked water closet, and the mop water was getting under the bowl which seeped between the flange and the flooring. Which in turn caused a leak in the ceiling below this water closet.

I pulled the water closet, seen the flange was not secured in place as well. So I secured the flange with a stainless steal reinforcement collar over the plastic flange. Already had trace lines of the bowls footprint from sitting there for years. So I set my putty ring on the flange and the putty around the perimeter of the bowl. Set the bowl and cut away the smooshed putty flush to the porcelain. Then I ran a bead of caulk around the bowl, the putty made it so I didn't have to use a ton of caulk. 

After the caulk set we flooded the floor and no more leaks.


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

If the customer wants the toilet calked I will try to talk them out of it. But if they insist, I calk the front and around to just an inch past the bolts.

But I understand about water on the floor getting on the ceiling. By calking 2/3 of the toilet, that should slow it down and diminish the damage.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

I put a tiny roll under toilet seat hinges so they don't slide around.


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

I always caulk a toilet. Two reasons why. 1. Most men, myself included, don't always have the best aim. When this gets under the toilet, it can make the whole bathroom smell like pee. The only way to clean it is to pull the toilet. 

2. Toilets leak because they move, a properly set flange and solid brass bolts should be enough but nothing wrong with extra insurance. 

As far as an undetected leak goes, you can mitigate this by not caulking the backside of the toilet.


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## redbeardplumber (Dec 4, 2012)

^^^^zakly


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

RW Plumbing said:


> I always caulk a toilet. Two reasons why. 1. Most men, myself included, don't always have the best aim. When this gets under the toilet, it can make the whole bathroom smell like pee. The only way to clean it is to pull the toilet.
> 
> 2. Toilets leak because they move, a properly set flange and solid brass bolts should be enough but nothing wrong with extra insurance.
> 
> As far as an undetected leak goes, you can mitigate this by not caulking the backside of the toilet.


I totally agree. The way i understand it the code requires caulking around all plumbing fixtures where they meet a wall or floor due to the potential of water seeping in and not being able to dry such as with wall hung lavs or pedestal type. I, too, leave a gap in the back of a toilet to allow a leak to be seen.


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## BOBBYTUCSON (Feb 8, 2013)

Thats an awsome trick right there by putting putty in the nutdriver definitely will be doing that!! And i have never heard nor was I taught to put a ring of putty under the toilet!! And had no idea back in the day the horn was protruding below the base of china!! But tham again I'm 26 years old so that was way before my time!!


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

putty is also good to to get metal shaving out of 1/4" and 5/16" impact magnetic sockets.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

gear junkie said:


> putty is also good to to get metal shaving out of 1/4" and 5/16" impact magnetic sockets.


Man. You sir, just blew my mind. I have always wondered if there was a better way and now I know it. Thank you. I can't believe I never thought of that. Its so simple.


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## BOBBYTUCSON (Feb 8, 2013)

gear junkie said:


> putty is also good to to get metal shaving out of 1/4" and 5/16" impact magnetic sockets.


This is also one of those things that I say to myself why the heck didn't I think of that? Lol


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

You can also make blow darts

Roll putty in a small ball stick a small nail and blow through 1/2" copper


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## BOBBYTUCSON (Feb 8, 2013)

MTDUNN said:


> You can also make blow darts
> 
> Roll putty in a small ball stick a small nail and blow through 1/2" copper


Just tried this, putty was to tacky and couldn't blow it more than a cm through the pipe


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## HSI (Jun 3, 2011)

MTDUNN said:


> You can also make blow darts Roll putty in a small ball stick a small nail and blow through 1/2" copper


Oh yea,
A five foot piece of 1/2" conduit and a ball of putty and the war is on. Leaves a welt that last for days. Accuracy is great with the right length. My back hurts just thinking about it. Lol


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Amateurs.....Shoot wire nuts with a drywall screw through the front or fill the wire nut with putty for extra weight.


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

HSI said:


> Oh yea, A five foot piece of 1/2" conduit and a ball of putty and the war is on. Leaves a welt that last for days. Accuracy is great with the right length. My back hurts just thinking about it. Lol


Yep about 5' is perfect. However I would discourage shooting darts at people.


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## HSI (Jun 3, 2011)

No darts just putty. Hit a bird in the breast one time and it fell without flutter. Thought it was dead. After a few minutes it popped up a flew away. The putty is so dense it knocked it out.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Fits nicely under door handles. A little less mean than a bowl wax.


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

+1 on conduit and wirenuts. Electricians could hit me on a lift 20' up.


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## Cajunhiker (Dec 14, 2009)

I was of the school of thought where I didn't caulk around the base of the toilet. BUT. Ok, Now I'm sold. Caulk around the base of the toilet, except for the back. Got it. Learn something new every time I'm on this forum.


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## ASUPERTECH (Jun 22, 2008)

I'll always use grout unless I'm on a wood subfloor. 

I'm totally wasting some wire nuts this week. Thx.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

ASUPERTECH said:


> I'll always use grout unless I'm on a wood subfloor.
> 
> I'm totally wasting some wire nuts this week. Thx.


I use silicone but am curious to reason for grout.


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## ASUPERTECH (Jun 22, 2008)

1. Usually matches the rest of the bathroom.
2. Added stability
3. Meets/ exceeds code requirement
4. I think it's a little more professional


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