# setting toilet on uneven floor



## kellybhutchings

What is the best thing to use when caulking a toilet for and uneven floor. I have been shimming the toilets and then just using tub and tile caulk but it doesn't last.


----------



## Wethead

Shim and use plaster of paris 

First take a big wad of plaster of paris and put it on in front of the flange.

Set bowl , and then chaulk

That's how we do it here in NY


----------



## Bill

We have plastic shims we use. Install them under the toilet till snug, cut off with razor knife, then caulk.


----------



## muck

Bill said:


> We have plastic shims we use. Install them under the toilet till snug, cut off with razor knife, then caulk.


 I like the rubbery ons better than the hard plastic


----------



## Ron

I use the rubber shims as well, then caulk, works for me.


----------



## PipemanNYC

I think Plaster works great sets up fast ... On new baths I always use the grout they used for the floor.. Looks better sets up strong and matches the grout on the floor perfect.. and you dont have to scrape the plaster out of the grout lines when done


----------



## Wethead

PipemanNYC said:


> I think Plaster works great sets up fast ... On new baths I always use the grout they used for the floor.. Looks better sets up strong and matches the grout on the floor perfect.. and you dont have to scrape the plaster out of the grout lines when done



Agreed on the new bath, but when pulling a toilet and then replacing it I like plaster of paris, 

Sometimes I just type with out thinking 

But yea if the grout is there from the tile then hell yes I would use that too;


----------



## WestCoastPlumber

PipemanNYC said:


> I think Plaster works great sets up fast ... On new baths I always use the grout they used for the floor.. Looks better sets up strong and matches the grout on the floor perfect.. and you dont have to scrape the plaster out of the grout lines when done


 

Grouting a toilet is a horrible idea if you ask me, they crack trying to remove them. If there is ever a leak, that grout directs the water straight down. I can't think of one good reason for grouting a toilet. I had someone grout shower trim the other day :furious: breaking it out with a screw driver and knife, horrible, 

Rubber shims and caulk, the best way to go in my book


----------



## Marlin

I usually won't caulk it. Just a wad of plaster and a shim well placed out of view. In my opinion the caulking stands out much more then a small gap does.


----------



## gear junkie

I as well use the rubber shims and caulk like everyone else but I also double nut the flange bolts to keep them from coming loose.


----------



## Wethead

WestCoastPlumber said:


> Grouting a toilet is a horrible idea if you ask me, they crack trying to remove them. If there is ever a leak, that grout directs the water straight down. I can't think of one good reason for grouting a toilet. I had someone grout shower trim the other day :furious: breaking it out with a screw driver and knife, horrible,
> 
> Rubber shims and caulk, the best way to go in my book



Can you thin of a reason for 4 showers hears and 18 body sprays, 1 toilet , 1 bidet , tub, and separate whirl pool in same bathroom?

That's how the rich roll here in NY , if the toilet cracks they will buy another, but in the mod term they want it all 

I also am told by my boss to grout, well that s when I had a boss


----------



## tamor67

rubber shims and caulk in my book....:thumbsup:


----------



## brass plumbing

try reasonably small amounts of epoxy putty by hercules sets in minutes, cuts w/knife & caulk to cover


----------



## smellslike$tome

Marlin said:


> I usually won't caulk it. Just a wad of plaster and a shim well placed out of view. In my opinion the caulking stands out much more then a small gap does.


What do you do about the horrendous piss stench that won't go away when Johnny misses and it ends up under the wc where it can't be cleaned? I didn't always caulk but I do now. Also, I don't know about the UPC but the IPC requires it.


----------



## Marlin

smellslike$tome said:


> What do you do about the horrendous piss stench that won't go away when Johnny misses and it ends up under the wc where it can't be cleaned? I didn't always caulk but I do now. Also, I don't know about the UPC but the IPC requires it.


Never really thought about that one nor have I heard any complaints about it.


----------



## smellslike$tome

Marlin said:


> Never really thought about that one nor have I heard any complaints about it.


Next time you see an uncaulked toilet, take a big whiff.


----------



## ROCKSTARPLUMBER

Smells like money is right, the IPC does require it. Grout it, caulk it, pvc glue it, hell, who cares?


----------



## PlumcrzyRedneck

I use the plastic shims then cut them even and use silicone, I smooth it out with my finger and it looks smooth as a babys bottom.


----------



## smellslike$tome

PlumcrzyRedneck said:


> I use the plastic shims then cut them even and use silicone, I smooth it out with my finger and it looks smooth as a babys bottom.


I use that foamy sponge like packing material that comes out of a new faucet box. The thin piece works great.


----------



## Proud Plumber

Plastic shims and caulk for me. When I started plumbing we were required to use unsanded grout. I like caulk best because it is a wee bit less porous than grout and piss saturated grout can get stinky as well. I do not like pure silicone for water closets.


----------



## Wiser

Plaster is big in NY and NJ. Both our out of state plumbers wanted to know why they couldn't find it on our trucks. We shim and caulk three sides and leave a small gap behind the toilet so in the future if there is a leak, it becomes apparent and doesn't rot the flooring.

If we used plaster (which no one does here), I would love to watch a local plumber try and pull the toilet later. :laughing:

Maybe rethinking it, using plaster could be profitable.


----------



## Redwood

PlumcrzyRedneck said:


> I use the plastic shims then cut them even and use *silicone*, I smooth it out with my finger and it looks smooth as a babys bottom.


:furious::furious: Don't get me started!
:furious:*Silicone!*:furious:

Why don't ya have a little sympathy on the guy that comes along behind you and has to pull the toilet!

Yea the guy that has to pull the damn thing after it overflowed from a clogged main and there is freakin sewage on the floor. I come along and curse the  that glued down the toilet with Silicone RTV. I'm running a knife under it trying to break it free without ripping up tiles or wallowing in the feccies peccies.

Come on why not try something like Phenoseal or, Polyseamseal!
You'll save yourself a few buck cause it's cheaper than Silicone RTV.
It's easier to work wth.
Cleans up with water.
Seals just fine and the toilet can be lifted without taking the floor with it!

Plus most important of all I won't be cursing you!
Nuff Said!


----------



## ROCKSTARPLUMBER

i replaced a toilet today. Was a kohler elongated, replaced with a Gerber elongated. Whatever jag-off set the kohler used metal washers for shims, rusted all in the grout and nice white tile. Luckily I keep a bottle of crl on every truck. Cleaned right up. They did use caulk though, toilet pulled right up. Silicone, I am not a big fan of. Hard to clean up, smells like vinigar, PITA to remove.

Oh, the gerber base was smaller than the kohler base, hince the nice clean up.


----------



## Protech

I use premixed adhesive grout every time. I have never had a problem removing grouted toilets. I don't know what you guys are talking about:confused1:

I like the premix because the toilet will not rock even if the 400lb land monster living there does a butt slide to home plate. I don't like caulk because it doesn't last very long. I just pulled my toilets that were installed in 1963 and they were set with grout. No piss smell. No problems pulling them. No cracked toilet.


----------



## ROCKSTARPLUMBER

I agree protech. Never had a problem with grout. As far as piss and what not getting under the bowl, WTF, 9 times out of ten when i pull a toilet, its a bad wax ring and in the base of the bowl theres going to be some nasty stuff there anyways. 

My beef with caulk on a tile floor is that if the grout is an off color then its a PITA to get to look good. Sometimes we get lucky on a trim and the grout hasnt been done yet, so the tile guy will grout it for us. Then, it looks super sweet.


----------



## Sewerologist

Redwood said:


> :furious::furious: Don't get me started!
> :furious:*Silicone!*:furious:
> 
> Why don't ya have a little sympathy on the guy that comes along behind you and has to pull the toilet!
> 
> Yea the guy that has to pull the damn thing after it overflowed from a clogged main and there is freakin sewage on the floor. I come along and curse the  that glued down the toilet with Silicone RTV. I'm running a knife under it trying to break it free without ripping up tiles or wallowing in the feccies peccies.
> 
> Come on why not try something like Phenoseal or, Polyseamseal!
> You'll save yourself a few buck cause it's cheaper than Silicone RTV.
> It's easier to work wth.
> Cleans up with water.
> Seals just fine and the toilet can be lifted without taking the floor with it!
> 
> Plus most important of all I won't be cursing you!
> Nuff Said!


 



I use silicone just to p*ss guys like you off........  whiner, lol.

I've glued lots of toilets down one way or another. Can't recall last call back from leaking toilet. Wax only smashes once. If the toilet doesn't move, it won't leak. Same clientel for many years. Plenty of referrals from people who said "He finally sealed my toilet". And when I do have to lift one of my toilets in the future for whatever reason, I whine and complain just like you are, lol By the way, polyseamseal hardens like concrete after a period of time. I've chipped bowls scraping the stuff off.


----------



## Bill

I removed an uneven toilet once, at least thats what the other plumber thought. I had a hell of a time chipping away at some white crap that was like plaster he used. I set the toilet without shims or anything and it set fine! Maybe this idiot had a closet bolt stuck under the toilet so he thought it was uneven!


----------



## Wethead

Nice rant and I agree, Plaster is one thing but silicone is just silly 

You could stick a Mac truck to a wall with that stuff :laughing:





Redwood said:


> :furious::furious: Don't get me started!
> :furious:*Silicone!*:furious:
> 
> Why don't ya have a little sympathy on the guy that comes along behind you and has to pull the toilet!
> 
> Yea the guy that has to pull the damn thing after it overflowed from a clogged main and there is freakin sewage on the floor. I come along and curse the  that glued down the toilet with Silicone RTV. I'm running a knife under it trying to break it free without ripping up tiles or wallowing in the feccies peccies.
> 
> Come on why not try something like Phenoseal or, Polyseamseal!
> You'll save yourself a few buck cause it's cheaper than Silicone RTV.
> It's easier to work wth.
> Cleans up with water.
> Seals just fine and the toilet can be lifted without taking the floor with it!
> 
> Plus most important of all I won't be cursing you!
> Nuff Said!


----------



## Redwood

Sewerologist said:


> I use silicone just to p*ss guys like you off........  whiner, lol.
> 
> I've glued lots of toilets down one way or another. Can't recall last call back from leaking toilet. Wax only smashes once. If the toilet doesn't move, it won't leak. Same clientel for many years. Plenty of referrals from people who said "He finally sealed my toilet". And when I do have to lift one of my toilets in the future for whatever reason, I whine and complain just like you are, lol By the way, polyseamseal hardens like concrete after a period of time. I've chipped bowls scraping the stuff off.


Only 2 things would use silicone rtv to set a toilet...
Steers and  !
Now if you'll just show me your horns and tail, we might get along fine. LOL :laughing:


----------

