# Dishwasher connection



## Plumbnman (Jun 24, 2011)

Has anyone had problems with the new style of dishwasher connections? We have one builder that supplies the deep tub style of dishwasher and you cannot see the water connection from the front of the dishwasher. So after you tie in the water line correctly you then have to manipulate the supply line to get the dishwasher into the cabinet, you cannot check your connection. It seems to me that this kind of connection could vibrate loose, especially after being moved around during the install. I am considering some Loctite on the hose type threads. Opinions or suggestions?


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

Ah, gotta love the Bosche design where you can't see under the d/w. I've never had an issue so far, but I do also tighten the adapter a little bit with pliers after I hand tighten them. In the case of the Bosche units with the connection in the back, i'll slide a blue shop paper towel taped to a scrap piece of wire to the back of the unit to check for leaks. I've never had the adapter leak but have had the crimp area of the supply line leak maybe a few times in 15 years.


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## Plumbus (Aug 4, 2008)

Use a stainless 1/4" flex. Less tug on the hose threads means less chance of a leak. When you test it, use a flashlight to see if there are any drips. If you are really paranoid, you can tape a couple sheets of hand towel to a string and place it in the area of the connector. After you test thew unit, pull out the towel and inspect.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Funny, this came up at the supply house a few weeks ago. They changed brands of branded dishwasher supplies. They only have the hose fitting end. We like the two options. I’ve never had a leak from that fitting, from the braided line, yes. The counter guy told us that those are known to fail.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Plumbus said:


> Use a stainless 1/4" flex. Less tug on the hose threads means less chance of a leak. When you test it, use a flashlight to see if there are any drips. If you are really paranoid, you can tape a couple sheets of hand towel to a string and place it in the area of the connector. After you test thew unit, pull out the towel and inspect.





1/4"? Surely you mean 3/8". Do they even make these adapters to go to 1/4"?




.


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## SchmitzPlumbing (May 5, 2014)

i never had a problem with them


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

skoronesa said:


> 1/4"? Surely you mean 3/8". Do they even make these adapters to go to 1/4"?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I don’t remember where or what it was used for, but I’ve seen a 1/4x3/8 compression coupling for soft copper, but not male/male.


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## Plumbus (Aug 4, 2008)

skoronesa said:


> 1/4"? Surely you mean 3/8". Do they even make these adapters to go to 1/4"?.


Oops. You are right.


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## Plumbus (Aug 4, 2008)

OpenSights said:


> Funny, this came up at the supply house a few weeks ago. They changed brands of branded dishwasher supplies. They only have the hose fitting end. We like the two options. I’ve never had a leak from that fitting, from the braided line, yes. The counter guy told us that those are known to fail.


If you use Brasscraft flex hoses, you won't have failures.


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

I've used the 3/8 x 1/4 compression couplings for hooking up an ice maker line that had to be run from the kitchen sink supply through cabinets to the fridge. 3/8 copper from a double outlet stop into the 3/8 x 1/4 coupling to the 1/4 flex supply.

I've had a Brasscraft braided flex supply leak from the crimp before.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

OpenSights said:


> I don’t remember where or what it was used for, but I’ve seen a 1/4x3/8 compression coupling for soft copper, but not male/male.





I meant do they make 3/4" FGHT x 1/4" comp. I've seen plenty of 1/4"x3/8" comp. adapters.





.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

chonkie said:


> .......
> I've had a Brasscraft braided flex supply leak from the crimp before.





We've used wolverine brass for decades with extremely few issues.


Slowly this option is becoming less and less beneficial as wolverine brass is slowly replacing their haute couture items with standard off the shelf pieces.


I am not particularly fond of the new big orange flapper design, mostly the hook.



.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Yeah those Bosch D/W's are a pain in the a$$ to install. Lots of manipulating to slide the thing back.

Twenty-five years ago, I mostly installed the average D/W with the kick plates. Laying down to make the connection with a 3/8" copper, yes copper line. And the old D/W ells not the new-style hose thread adapters. Ahh the good old days. 

This happened once: The stupid granite counter top guys didn't glue the little strip of wood {or it can be a metal strip with little holes for the set screws} to the underneath side of the granite for me. When I went to install the Bosch unit, the customer said, "The granite guys said that the plumber can just as easily put the screws to hold the D/W in place through the sides. He doesn't need to have a place on top to screw the unit to."

Well that was a real pain in the a$$. After struggling to set this D/W by using the side screw holes, I told the customer to tell the granite man that this is the 1st and last time that this plumber will ever use those screw holes in the sides. It was way more difficult.

Anyone else have that problem or was it just me? Maybe it was right before I went to needing reading glasses. I don't know, but it seemed a lot harder than just zip zip! placing two screws into the underneath side of the counter top.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Tommy plumber said:


> Yeah those Bosch D/W's are a pain in the a$$ to install. Lots of manipulating to slide the thing back.
> 
> Twenty-five years ago, I mostly installed the average D/W with the kick plates. Laying down to make the connection with a 3/8" copper, yes copper line. And the old D/W ells not the new-style hose thread adapters. Ahh the good old days.
> 
> ...


Screwing on the side is difficult, very difficult, you need the exact length or the screw will go though the other side of the cabinet. Or the screw falls in between the 2 layers into the abyss.

They do sell stick on tabs for under the granite. I bought some because I had 3 that I couldn't screw on top. Now 3 years later I haven't needed a single sticker tab and they were very expensive and doing nothing in the van.


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## jim285pro (Sep 3, 2020)

I worried about those when they first came out. Ive put in probably over 50 with zero issues. I always snug them up with my little knipex. Personally I love the bosch design. The leveling adjustment is very nice. Of all the brands out there I hear more good things from customers about bosch than other brands. I put one in my own house and you can be 10 ft from it and not hear it running.


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## jim285pro (Sep 3, 2020)

Over time I have learned to like the side mount. I think it holds the DW better. PLus no more hoping the granite guy left you a mount cause they rarely do.


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## Logtec (Jun 3, 2018)

I haven’t had any issues with the 3/8” waterline connection for any D/W in the last 20 years.. 
if you’ve connected the w/L correctly then you shouldn’t have a problem.
Trust your work, and the provided connectors.


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## Plumbus (Aug 4, 2008)

chonkie said:


> I've used the 3/8 x 1/4 compression couplings for hooking up an ice maker line that had to be run from the kitchen sink supply through cabinets to the fridge. 3/8 copper from a double outlet stop into the 3/8 x 1/4 coupling to the 1/4 flex supply.
> 
> I've had a Brasscraft braided flex supply leak from the crimp before.


Did you put in a claim?


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Tango said:


> Screwing on the side is difficult, very difficult, you need the exact length or the screw will go though the other side of the cabinet. *Or the screw falls in between the 2 layers into the abyss.*
> 
> They do sell stick on tabs for under the granite. I bought some because I had 3 that I couldn't screw on top. Now 3 years later I haven't needed a single sticker tab and they were very expensive and doing nothing in the van.











Well said monsieur.


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## canuck92 (Apr 1, 2016)

Havent had issues, i also use the 3/8 braided line.
Although iv noticed alot of the dishwashers made now come with a plug an if you cut it off an hardwire it, it will void the warranty so now we have to wire a recepticle in the cabinets, 1 more stupid thing we have to do now.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

MRQuad said:


> We have installed a dishwasher with similar connection as picture above without a problem..


Better post an intro real quick because your ad reads like spam.


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## Paulie B (Oct 22, 2011)

Alot of old ice maker valves used to have 3/4" hose x 1/4" comp adapter fittings. I'll see if I have one in the archives at my shop. 


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Tango said:


> Screwing on the side is difficult, very difficult, you need the exact length or the screw will go though the other side of the cabinet. Or the screw falls in between the 2 layers into the abyss.
> 
> They do sell stick on tabs for under the granite. I bought some because I had 3 that I couldn't screw on top. Now 3 years later I haven't needed a single sticker tab and they were very expensive and doing nothing in the van.


not really, just buy a box of 3/4 dry wall screws and a drill thats slightly smaller..I pre drill the face board so they dont split and if they have formica covering or some other hard schit, it wont crack when screwed..most if not all new dishwashers come with screw holes in the side, they are usually covered by plastic caps...


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> not really, just buy a box of 3/4 dry wall screws and a drill thats slightly smaller..I pre drill the face board so they dont split and if they have formica covering or some other hard schit, it wont crack when screwed..most if not all new dishwashers come with screw holes in the side, they are usually covered by plastic caps...


The dishwashers I had to do, the screw length depends on the thickness of the cabinet plus the gap between the machine, so that means I have to carry several screw lengths . Then you have those double wall and gap in between these 2 walls. Very easy for the screw to fall in between. Drilling 1/8 deep may help.


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