# Tips for brazing with an oxy acetylene torch



## Nikolai

I've brazed a lot of 1/2"-1" pipe with acetylene and propane, but the new job I'm on requires me to braze 1.5-3" type L. I got a crash course from our prefab foreman on how to braze with the oxy acetylene torch(w/ rosebud tip) but I don't trust him. I was basically told to set the oxygen at 40 psi, the acetylene at 5 psi, adjust the flame accordingly and braze away. 

The prefab foreman and my job foreman are both telling me I don't have to clean fittings or pipe prior to brazing which is making me question there competency. I'm having a hard time accepting this and I told the apprentice to clean the fittings/pipe anyway. Being a hobbyist TIG welder I've always put a lot of emphasis on cleanliness and don't believe a joint could ever be too clean prior to soldering/brazing. 

*I'm looking for real life tips/advice*, or links to articles pertaining to brazing copper with an oxy acetylene torch. I've searched up and down on this forum, google, and read through my welding books but I haven't found anything helpful. I want to make sure I'm doing everything correctly, not only for myself, but so I can properly teach the apprentice as well.
- Is it true you do not have to clean fittings and pipe when brazing pipe this large(I just cannot believe this to be true)

- Is there a general rule for how much brazing rod should be used on a 1.5", 2", 3" joint?

- What pressure do you set your oxygen and acetylene tanks at?

- How bout a pic of the correct flame from a rosebud tip?

- Tips for brazing copper pipe to brass flanges? The brazed joint sometimes looks porous like the brass is contaminated. Is this simply too much heat in the brass?

*Thanks, I appreciate any and all help. *


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## Redwood

What size tip?

With multi flame torches there are no rule of thumb settings...

You can easily get into some serious problems with meltdown and flashback, as well as drawing to fast from the tank and burning acetone...


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## Nikolai

I'll check on the tip size tomorrow and take a few pics of my joints and different flames.


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## PrecisePlumbing

Here in oz all we do is brazing with copper. I do a fair bit of larger copper and I know what I do works under high pressure. I ALWAYS clean the copper and the solder with emery paper thouroughly untill it's shiny and consistent. We use didfferent measurment increments here but basically get your flame hot and roaring. I always use a 20 tip for everything and a neutral flame which is no feathering just cone and not too pointed with the oxy on about 200 kpa and the acetylene on 70-80 kpa ( sorry don't know the conversion to psi) You can't really say how much solder a fitting will use so it's just trial and error. You should be able to read what it needs as you go. Just keep it hot, hot , hot!!! Do your sweat run then cap it neatly. Some people I work with even weld the inside after the fact but I don't bother. If you do it right you shouldn't need to. 
Brazing onto big brass stuff is the same technique as small just hotter. Heat the copper and let the copper heat the brass and it will draw the solder pretty easily. Cleanliness is crutial when doing this tho as well as a good quality flux. Dunno if this helped but happy brazing!


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## nhmaster3015

40lbs is a bit high, I'm hapier around 25 but the equipment dictates what you will need. Clean to your hearts content but in truth you don't need to.


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## NYC Plumber

You don't need to clean the fittings, you'd probably get laid off for something like that in my shop.
After your done the copper is going to look black, not like soldering... Don't overheat though.


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## SlickRick

My tip is to leave it at the shop.

Get a A-32 Turbo Torch tip, "A" tank and a pair of ear plugs.

Much easier to use.


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## Plumberman

You don't have to clean copper before you braze it as noted.

We do a lot of med gas here and that's a whole different code to follow.

The pressures he told you are what we run, little low on the Acy. But it won't make a difference once you fire up that rose bud. I dislike rose buds because of the concentrated heat on a particular side of the fitting but it gets it hot in a hurry....

Here's some pics of a 4" vacuum line I brazed... As far as it goes with the sticks it takes me about 2-3 each weld. But on med gas you are shooting for 100% and it takes a lot of milking to get it all the way inside the cup when your brazing that size. Once you get it pulled in, the cap is a priority in IMO


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## NYC Plumber

Nice work. Looks good.


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## nhmaster3015

somewhere in my collection of crap I have a circular tip that wraps the flame around large joints.

A turbo torch with acetylene will work on smaller joints but It takes too damn long for anything larger than 1 - 1/2" IMO


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## SlickRick

nhmaster3015 said:


> somewhere in my collection of crap I have a circular tip that wraps the flame around large joints.
> 
> A turbo torch with acetylene will work on smaller joints but It takes too damn long for anything larger than 1 - 1/2" IMO



Not with the A-32 tip. Ran many, many feet, prolly miles of 3"- 4" with one.


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## U666A

40 and 7 here, neutral flame. Not often I get access to a 2 bottle setup so I'm usually stuck with what Ricks said, an A-32 and a "B" tank. Even with that tip wide open, and the reg cranked, it's hard to keep a 2" joint hot all the way around.

I actually fashioned a device for this purpose using 2 bottles, 2 regs, and 2 torches and was able to get a 4" wrought MIP just cherry red.

As far as how much rod to use? Start out by burning an MIP onto a stick of pipe, and jam the rod in til you have penetration all around. I have been accused of going through too much solder and too much acetylene... But I can't recall ever having a leak on a brazed joint.

Are you using B-cuP 5, or a different alloy?

As far as to clean or not... I was taught to clean very thoroughly. I have always cleaned pipe and fittings, and usually, if I remember, the Sil-fos rods as well. But on the job I'm on now, they have spec'd that the fittings be cleaned first with sand cloth, then dipped in a mild detergent, then rinsed and air dried. A little silly if you ask me.

Hope it helps.

UA


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## U666A

Said device.

Also, Brazing copper to brass requires either a specific flux or a different alloy, is this not correct?


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## SlickRick

U666A, I can roast a 2" fitting with a A-32 here. Is it a difference in altitude or something?

Why don't you use a "A" tank and adt.? An A-32 will suck a "B" tank in no time flat.


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## PrecisePlumbing

For the small amount of time it takes I think cleaning the copper is an added safegaurd as many contaminants can mostly burn away but can leave residue no matter how hot you get it that would be detrimental to your weld. Hell I even sand cloth the solder if it's dull or old. I've never had a leak brazing so far touch wood. 
I remember a while back there was a large batch of 2 inch high pressure copper fittings from kembla that had an oily type residue on them and a few guys I was working with were having trouble getting the solder to take to them and when it would start sweating it would stop. They started cleaning their copper and no problems after that ; )


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## U666A

SlickRick said:


> U666A, I can roast a 2" fitting with a A-32 here. Is it a difference in altitude or something?
> 
> Why don't you use a "A" tank and adt.? An A-32 will suck a "B" tank in no time flat.


IDK Rick, I guess it does work, it just takes an eternity and you really have to pay close attention to what you're doing.

As far as tank/fuel selection, i am an employee, not an employer. I do the best I can with what I'm given.

But you have to admit, my unistrut/cushioned clamp/dual torch setup was pretty kickass! Went through pret near 2 full B's brazing one 4" MIP and both sides of a 4" X 2" Red. Coup.

Carbon tank, don't know why they didn't just order a reducing threaded flange, or a black Bushing instead. Put it together with a strap wrench because I was worried about crushing the MIP with the 36" aluminum...


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## Nikolai

SlickRick said:


> My tip is to leave it at the shop.
> 
> Get a A-32 Turbo Torch tip, "A" tank and a pair of ear plugs.
> 
> Much easier to use.


When I found out I was on this job I ordered an Acetylene kit(X-3B) off ebay along with an A-32 tip. I should have it by Friday. I already have the B-tank. 

The tip I'm currently using is a 6









Here's a few photos, I took a bunch but only a few turned out. The foreman who gave me the crash course said I don't need to "feed" any rod in, just cap it good. I've been using about 3/4" of stick per joint(so 1.5 sticks per fitting). 

























I tried the oxygen at 30 psi and didn't notice much of a difference.

The more opinions the better, keep em coming, and thanks :thumbup:


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## U666A

that is totally incorrect. The solder is supposed to wet the pipe and fitting throughout the entire engagement. Only when you have achieved proper penetration do you let it cool slightly and "makea the beautiful" with a nice cap.


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## Plumberman

On 3" if you don't feed it in, it's going to leak. A cap is put on after you feel the cup up with silver.

And if you are only using 3/4" of a rod on each side of the joint, it's going to leak, there is no way you are getting full penetration with that little bit of solder.


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## SlickRick

You can see from here that you are not even getting 50% penetration. Prolly going to have leaks.

For me, the long handle and tip are a extreme PITA to work with.


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## Nikolai

Not what I wanted to hear, but that's why I posted up. Luckily I've only brazed 6 out of about 15 fittings so I'll make sure the rest are done correctly.

Can I come back and hit these 6 fittings again, or is it bad practice to braze a fitting twice?


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## SlickRick

Nikolai said:


> Not what I wanted to hear, but that's why I posted up. Luckily I've only brazed 6 out of about 15 fittings so I'll make sure the rest are done correctly.
> 
> Can I come back and hit these 6 fittings again, or is it bad practice to braze a fitting twice?


Just don't blow a hole in it.

It's no problem reheating the joint.


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## RealLivePlumber

We gotta teach these young bucks about full penetration...............


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## U666A

SlickRick said:


> Just don't blow a hole in it.
> 
> It's no problem reheating the joint.


I would suggest cleaning the joint thoroughly with a knotted wire wheel on a grinder before reheating the joints. You don't want inclusions like the flaky black crap in your weld.

But yes, I have run out of fuel halfway through a joint before. When this happens I hold the rod against the joint where I stopped, and let it cool. When I come back with a new bottle and start applying heat again, I am exactly where I left off. Same goes for tig wire, except you can see your route.


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## nhmaster3015

RealLivePlumber said:


> We gotta teach these young bucks about full penetration...............


 
that's what she said:whistling2:


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## ]3ones

Nikolai said:


> I've brazed a lot of 1/2"-1" pipe with acetylene and propane, but the new job I'm on requires me to braze 1.5-3" type L. I got a crash course from our prefab foreman on how to braze with the oxy acetylene torch(w/ rosebud tip) but I don't trust him. I was basically told to set the oxygen at 40 psi, the acetylene at 5 psi, adjust the flame accordingly and braze away.
> 
> The prefab foreman and my job foreman are both telling me I don't have to clean fittings or pipe prior to brazing which is making me question there competency. I'm having a hard time accepting this and I told the apprentice to clean the fittings/pipe anyway. Being a hobbyist TIG welder I've always put a lot of emphasis on cleanliness and don't believe a joint could ever be too clean prior to soldering/brazing.
> 
> *I'm looking for real life tips/advice*, or links to articles pertaining to brazing copper with an oxy acetylene torch. I've searched up and down on this forum, google, and read through my welding books but I haven't found anything helpful. I want to make sure I'm doing everything correctly, not only for myself, but so I can properly teach the apprentice as well.
> - Is it true you do not have to clean fittings and pipe when brazing pipe this large(I just cannot believe this to be true)
> 
> - Is there a general rule for how much brazing rod should be used on a 1.5", 2", 3" joint?
> 
> - What pressure do you set your oxygen and acetylene tanks at?
> 
> - How bout a pic of the correct flame from a rosebud tip?
> 
> - Tips for brazing copper pipe to brass flanges? The brazed joint sometimes looks porous like the brass is contaminated. Is this simply too much heat in the brass?
> 
> *Thanks, I appreciate any and all help. *


You have to balance your torch to establish maximum gas flow settings for your particular welding/brazing tip. This compensates for normal regulator inaccuracies by setting the regulators under actual working pressures. Your torch should be balanced every time a tip is selected and the regulator pressure adjusted accordingly. This is for oxy-acetylene welding and brazing.

1. fully open the oxcygen cylinder valve

2. fully open the acetylene cylinder valve (*note key type valves are only opened one and one half turn*) 

3.Turn the acetylene regulator adjusting screw clockwise untill gas flows

4.Open the torch acetylene valve one half turn, light it, then fully open the valve

5. Increase the acetylene psi slowly from the regulator untill the flame just leaves the tip end

6. adjust the gas flow with the acetylene Torch valve untill the flame is back on the tip and does not smoke.

7. Fully open the oxcygen valve

8. slowly open the oxgen regulator valve untill u get a neutral flame









9. Open the acetylene torch valve slightly and open the oxygen regulator valve to again obtain a neutral flame. Keep doing this untill the Torch acetylene valve is fully open and you got a bright neutral flame.

You dont have to clean new pipe or fittings.
Brass to copper brazes no problem you might be getting that porous look because of your flux. I never use flux when i braze. Some guys will shoot nitrogen at about 1.5" w/c through the lines they're brazing. That helps with porosity kinda like Argon gas and Tig welding.


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## NYC Plumber

PrecisePlumbing said:


> For the small amount of time it takes I think cleaning the copper is an added safegaurd as many contaminants can mostly burn away but can leave residue no matter how hot you get it that would be detrimental to your weld. Hell I even sand cloth the solder if it's dull or old. I've never had a leak brazing so far touch wood.
> I remember a while back there was a large batch of 2 inch high pressure copper fittings from kembla that had an oily type residue on them and a few guys I was working with were having trouble getting the solder to take to them and when it would start sweating it would stop. They started cleaning their copper and no problems after that ; )


For soldering yes you have to clean the pipe and fittings, not with brazing though.


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## Nikolai

> And if you are only using 3/4" of a rod on each side of the joint, it's going to leak, there is no way you are getting full penetration with that little bit of solder.


I mistyped in my previous post with the pics. I was using 3/4 of a full rod, not 3/4 of an inch. Today I fed about a 1.5 sticks into each side of the fitting and tried to get as much penetration as possible. 



> I would suggest cleaning the joint thoroughly with a knotted wire wheel on a grinder before reheating the joints. You don't want inclusions like the flaky black crap in your weld.


I did clean all of the joints with a wire brush before I brazed them a second time.

3ones, thanks for the tutorial on getting the proper flame. I'll go through those steps when I return to work on Monday. It's taking about 12-15 minutes to braze both sides of a fitting which seems like an awful long time.



> Brass to copper brazes no problem you might be getting that porous look because of your flux


I haven't been using flux, no one at the company seems to think I need it. I think I'm going to try it on the next flanges I do because it's still not brazing very well.

Here's some pics from today.


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## Plumberman

Nitrogen purge will kill the oxidation inside the line so it is clean on the inside and not burnt up like the outer fitting.


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## U666A

Wow. This turned into a very informative thread. Yes to the N2 purge! Forgot to mention that. My flow meter does not read water column, it reads cubic feet/minute (I think) I run at just under 15 cfm and have brazed beautiful joints.

For copper to brass... You definitely need flux or you need to use a different rod. B-cup5 is not designed for that application. Look it up.

Well done on the step by step greenhorn, it was honestly well articulated and understandable.

If only my 2" "sectional ball valves c/w brazed ends" would show up I'd have some pics for you vultures to scrutinize...

:laughing:

To be continued...

UA


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## Plumberman

U666A said:


> Wow. This turned into a very informative thread. Yes to the N2 purge! Forgot to mention that. My flow meter does not read water column, it reads cubic feet/minute (I think) I run at just under 15 cfm and have brazed beautiful joints.
> 
> For copper to brass... You definitely need flux or you need to use a different rod. B-cup5 is not designed for that application. Look it up.
> 
> Well done on the step by step greenhorn, it was honestly well articulated and understandable.
> 
> If only my 2" "sectional ball valves c/w brazed ends" would show up I'd have some pics for you vultures to scrutinize...
> 
> :laughing:
> 
> To be continued...
> 
> UA


We don't purge in water lines or hydronic lines. 

But NFPA 99 2005 requires it on medical gas for obvious reasons. 

A/C techs are recommend by the manufacturer to purge but hardly ever do.


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## U666A

Plumberman said:


> We don't purge in water lines or hydronic lines.
> 
> But NFPA 99 2005 requires it on medical gas for obvious reasons.
> 
> A/C techs are recommend by the manufacturer to purge but hardly ever do.


Agreed. Other than I few odd repair jobs, I didn't have a ton of experience with brazing. Now I could do it in my sleeep. Water lines in this building are soft soldered of course, it's the CA, N2, O2 and medical vacuum lines that are for the lab benches that are all brazed. Therefore I set a purge up on everything.

It can be difficult though sometimes to achieve a good purge as I can't just stuff a wad of rice paper in like I would for other applications.

Again... Cool thread!


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## ]3ones

U666A said:


> Wow. This turned into a very informative thread. Yes to the N2 purge! Forgot to mention that. My flow meter does not read water column, it reads cubic feet/minute (I think) I run at just under 15 cfm and have brazed beautiful joints.
> 
> For copper to brass... You definitely need flux or you need to use a different rod. B-cup5 is not designed for that application. Look it up.
> 
> Well done on the step by step greenhorn, it was honestly well articulated and understandable.
> 
> If only my 2" "sectional ball valves c/w brazed ends" would show up I'd have some pics for you vultures to scrutinize...
> 
> :laughing:
> 
> To be continued...
> 
> UA


I burn Silicon Bronze (ERCuSi-A)


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## RealLivePlumber

Plumberman said:


> We don't purge in water lines or hydronic lines.
> 
> But NFPA 99 2005 requires it on medical gas for obvious reasons.
> 
> A/C techs are recommend by the manufacturer to purge but hardly ever do.


 
We do quite a bit of AC. With the new 410a refrigerant, you best be purging with nitrogen. The polyolester oil will strip the scale right off the pipe, and plug the metering device in a hurry. 

Ask me how I know...........:whistling2:


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## Plumberman

RealLivePlumber said:


> We do quite a bit of AC. With the new 410a refrigerant, you best be purging with nitrogen. The polyolester oil will strip the scale right off the pipe, and plug the metering device in a hurry.
> 
> Ask me how I know...........:whistling2:


They may do it on the 410a units, I know they don't on the older ones, at least I haven't ever seen it here.


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## U666A

Oh and one more tip; not for oxy/acet but for brazing in general. Take your channel locks and bend the rod at 90 degrees, about 1/2" from the end. As you weld the joint and progress down the rod, when your hand touches the perpendicular portion, you will know it is almost spent and should have another rod at the ready.

You're a liar if you tell me that you've ever brazed a joint but never scorched your fingers... This trick works, take it from hamburger hands himself!

:laughing:


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## Plumberman

U666A said:


> Oh and one more tip; not for oxy/acet but for brazing in general. Take your channel locks and bend the rod at 90 degrees, about 1/2" from the end. As you weld the joint and progress down the rod, when your hand touches the perpendicular portion, you will know it is almost spent and should have another rod at the ready.
> 
> You're a liar if you tell me that you've ever brazed a joint but never scorched your fingers... This trick works, take it from hamburger hands himself!
> 
> :laughing:


I heat mine up, then bend at the center. 


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## PrecisePlumbing

U666A said:


> Oh and one more tip; not for oxy/acet but for brazing in general. Take your channel locks and bend the rod at 90 degrees, about 1/2" from the end. As you weld the joint and progress down the rod, when your hand touches the perpendicular portion, you will know it is almost spent and should have another rod at the ready.
> 
> You're a liar if you tell me that you've ever brazed a joint but never scorched your fingers... This trick works, take it from hamburger hands himself!
> 
> :laughing:



I also do it because I've poked myself in the eye with the end haha took 3 or 4 times to get me doin it tho


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## Redwood

]3ones said:


> You have to balance your torch to establish maximum gas flow settings for your particular welding/brazing tip. This compensates for normal regulator inaccuracies by setting the regulators under actual working pressures. Your torch should be balanced every time a tip is selected and the regulator pressure adjusted accordingly. This is for oxy-acetylene welding and brazing.
> 
> 1. fully open the oxcygen cylinder valve
> 
> *2. fully open the acetylene cylinder valve (*note key type valves are only opened one and one half turn*) *
> 
> 3.Turn the acetylene regulator adjusting screw clockwise untill gas flows
> 
> 4.Open the torch acetylene valve one half turn, light it, then fully open the valve
> 
> *5. Increase the acetylene psi slowly from the regulator untill the flame just leaves the tip end*
> 
> 6. adjust the gas flow with the acetylene Torch valve untill the flame is back on the tip and does not smoke.
> 
> 7. Fully open the oxcygen valve
> 
> 8. slowly open the oxgen regulator valve untill u get a neutral flame
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 9. Open the acetylene torch valve slightly and open the oxygen regulator valve to again obtain a neutral flame. Keep doing this untill the Torch acetylene valve is fully open and you got a bright neutral flame.
> 
> You dont have to clean new pipe or fittings.
> Brass to copper brazes no problem you might be getting that porous look because of your flux. I never use flux when i braze. Some guys will shoot nitrogen at about 1.5" w/c through the lines they're brazing. That helps with porosity kinda like Argon gas and Tig welding.


Good Post with 2 exceptions.

I was taught never open the Acetylene Valve more than 1 turn.
1/2 - 3/4 turn is recommended...
You want to be able to turn it off quickly!

Never go over 15-psi pressure on the acetylene...


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## gear junkie

I'm a liar, never burned my fingers....I don't throw any silfoss away. Too expensive. Use a pair of needle nose vise grips to hold them. How long is your rod that you guys are using?


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## Nikolai

I would guess about 12".


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## U666A

PrecisePlumbing said:


> I also do it because I've poked myself in the eye with the end haha took 3 or 4 times to get me doin it tho


Also, if you get disoriented, you can end up with a pretty nasty scar on both your lips and your tongue...

:laughing: , but shouldn't be, this happened to me.

Oh, and Red...

This may be either a provincial thing, or perhaps a Canadian thing but a few years ago there was a voluntary recall offered by several cylinder manufacturers about a very dangerous situation that had been developing with the "single seating" valves that acetylene bottles were equipped with.

To my knowledge, most bottles we receive now are equipped with double seated valves, not unlike what's found on an oxygen bottle, and therefore, are to be opened all the way to achieve the appropriate mixture.


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## U666A

gear junkie said:


> I'm a liar, never burned my fingers....I don't throw any silfoss away. Too expensive. Use a pair of needle nose vise grips to hold them. How long is your rod that you guys are using?


I don't throw it away either. Once I have consumed a 1/2 lb tube of it and am left with a mountain of pieces between 2&5" long, I take 5 minutes and braze them back together to make new rods about 24" long.

What kind of brazing rod do you use to braze together brazed prices of brazing rod?!?

:jester:


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## PrecisePlumbing

U666A said:


> Also, if you get disoriented, you can end up with a pretty nasty scar on both your lips and your tongue...
> 
> :laughing: , but shouldn't be, this happened to me.
> 
> Oh, and Red...
> 
> This may be either a provincial thing, or perhaps a Canadian thing but a few years ago there was a voluntary recall offered by several cylinder manufacturers about a very dangerous situation that had been developing with the "single seating" valves that acetylene bottles were equipped with.
> 
> To my knowledge, most bottles we receive now are equipped with double seated valves, not unlike what's found on an oxygen bottle, and therefore, are to be opened all the way to achieve the appropriate mixture.


I also just realized that the little burn marks on my stomach and chest are the result of confusing the hot end from not haha please bend the end!!! It just makes so much damn sense


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## PrecisePlumbing

I just realized where the tiny burn scars on my stomach and chest are from haha Bend the end!! It makes so much sense


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## Airgap

U666A said:


> I don't throw it away either. Once I have consumed a 1/2 lb tube of it and am left with a mountain of pieces between 2&5" long, I take 5 minutes and braze them back together to make new rods about 24" long.
> 
> What kind of brazing rod do you use to braze together brazed prices of brazing rod?!?
> 
> :jester:


I always braze the shorties on to the end of the next whole stick....No waste keep rolling along....


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## U666A

Airgap said:


> I always braze the shorties on to the end of the next whole stick....No waste keep rolling along....


Never thought of doing it that way, AG, but it makes alot more sense. The only thing I don't like about that is taking the heat away from the joint to do that between each rod and the next. A 4" coupling will consume better than a 1/4 lb of rod, but on the same hand it is a pita the way I do it because you have a rod 24" long, with a little blob and slight change of angle every couple of inches.

I will give it some thought on Tuesday, but I think this would be a more efficient process on a "small bore" application.

UA


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## PrecisePlumbing

If your tricky you can let the fitting cool just enough to hold the rest of your rod in free air, grab your fresh one and braze onto rod then continue


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## U666A

Oh and one more. 

If you need to build a compressor room and you require sectional ball valves c/w brazed swaged ends, order them 10 years in advance!

I was told in April that they were custom order for the 2", and they would be in my hands on June 2nd. Still not here!




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## Nikolai

Finished the job about 3 weeks ago. Had two leaks out of 250+ brazed joints which I don't think is too bad. Next job should have zero.

Here's a couple pics of the job about 95% finished. Had to demo 8 pumps mounted on strut below the ceiling and replace them with 8 new ones mounted on the floor so they'd be accessible, plus all new ball valves, circuit setters, ect. I didn't come out nearly as nice as I wanted, but I don't have any say in what gets ordered so I'm stuck plumbing with whatever parts are put in front of me. Had to make the best of the situation.


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## Redwood

0.8 % of them leaked...

Not too shabby! :thumbup:


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## fightnews

NYC Plumber said:


> You don't need to clean the fittings, you'd probably get laid off for something like that in my shop.
> After your done the copper is going to look black, not like soldering... Don't overheat though.


Where do you work Nazi Germany?


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## fightnews

Plumberman said:


> You don't have to clean copper before you braze it as noted.
> 
> We do a lot of med gas here and that's a whole different code to follow.
> 
> The pressures he told you are what we run, little low on the Acy. But it won't make a difference once you fire up that rose bud. I dislike rose buds because of the concentrated heat on a particular side of the fitting but it gets it hot in a hurry....
> 
> Here's some pics of a 4" vacuum line I brazed... As far as it goes with the sticks it takes me about 2-3 each weld. But on med gas you are shooting for 100% and it takes a lot of milking to get it all the way inside the cup when your brazing that size. Once you get it pulled in, the cap is a priority in IMO


Nice job


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## fightnews

U666A said:


> 40 and 7 here, neutral flame. Not often I get access to a 2 bottle setup so I'm usually stuck with what Ricks said, an A-32 and a "B" tank. Even with that tip wide open, and the reg cranked, it's hard to keep a 2" joint hot all the way around.
> 
> I actually fashioned a device for this purpose using 2 bottles, 2 regs, and 2 torches and was able to get a 4" wrought MIP just cherry red.
> 
> As far as how much rod to use? Start out by burning an MIP onto a stick of pipe, and jam the rod in til you have penetration all around. I have been accused of going through too much solder and too much acetylene... But I can't recall ever having a leak on a brazed joint.
> 
> Are you using B-cuP 5, or a different alloy?
> 
> As far as to clean or not... I was taught to clean very thoroughly. I have always cleaned pipe and fittings, and usually, if I remember, the Sil-fos rods as well. But on the job I'm on now, they have spec'd that the fittings be cleaned first with sand cloth, then dipped in a mild detergent, then rinsed and air dried. A little silly if you ask me.
> 
> Hope it helps.
> 
> UA


You should never clean refrigeration tubing with sand cloth. Use a wire brush.

Particles from the sand cloth can get into the refrigerant and damage the system life.


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## affordabledrain

fightnews said:


> Where do you work Nazi Germany?



HMM 3 posts in the same older thread
where is the intro for you?


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## fightnews

gear junkie said:


> I'm a liar, never burned my fingers....I don't throw any silfoss away. Too expensive. Use a pair of needle nose vise grips to hold them. How long is your rod that you guys are using?


thats what i do:thumbup:


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## fightnews

affordabledrain said:


> HMM 3 posts in the same older thread
> where is the intro for you?


so?


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## fightnews

Hi Everyone. Just joined this site and I'm looking forward to sharing knowledge and ideas with everyone. FYI I'm 33 and have been a journeyman plumber/pipe-fitter 13 years.


So I want to buy this torch for small jobs brazing and cutting. My question is this. Will the acetylene gas run out as fast as a regular acetylene torch with equal tip OR does it use less acetylene because of the oxygen?


Thanks


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## affordabledrain

still waiting on a proper intro.
I am cool and could care less. sadly there are members here that will tear you a new one with out the proper steps to post an intro


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## fightnews

affordabledrain said:


> still waiting on a proper intro.
> I am cool and could care less. sadly there are members here that will tear you a new one with out the proper steps to post an intro


ok no big deal. just saw the intro forum.


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