# My favorite type of flange



## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

If done right a brass flange should last you forever. Emphasis on, "if done right".


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Nice job BDS!


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> If done right a brass flange should last you forever. Emphasis on, "if done right".
> 
> Put screws in it before you set, you could break the bend at the wipe joint. I did blow that up to 400% looks a bit brassy in the front, did you tin it before soldering?


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Yup, looks good. Professional. Inexperienced apprentices easily blow a hole in the lead by not keeping the heat on the brass.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

It is very difficult to put screws into the old concrete here. I have tried over the years and never had good luck so quit trying. Thus far I haven't had one break. I don't know what tinning is. I sand the flange and clean the hell out of the lead and use 50/50 solder. I always overlap the solder a little and build up a nice thick layer onto the lead. How do you do it?


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Tommy plumber said:


> Yup, looks good. Professional. Inexperienced apprentices easily blow a hole in the lead by not keeping the heat on the brass.


Thank you. I realized that i had a lot of pics of bad jobs on here and only one of my work. I wanted to make sure and put some of my own work to show that I do take a lot of pride in what I do. I had a good trainer years ago teach me the proper way of doing a brass flange. I have seen many that were done wrong and consequently break.


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> It is very difficult to put screws into the old concrete here. I have tried over the years and never had good luck so quit trying. Thus far I haven't had one break. I don't know what tinning is. I sand the flange and clean the hell out of the lead and use 50/50 solder. I always overlap the solder a little and build up a nice thick layer onto the lead. How do you do it?


Take the brass flange (not on the lead yet) clean & flux it then with a torch heat the flange on the back side until the solder starts to melt [you're holding it with pliers] when the solder runs take a clean rag and wipe it smooth.
It makes it a lot [lots] eaiser to solder lead to brass. In fact when lead 
was wiped to a corporation cock or a furrel all brass had to be tinned first.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

PLUMBER_BILL said:


> Take the brass flange (not on the lead yet) clean & flux it then with a torch heat the flange on the back side until the solder starts to melt [you're holding it with pliers] when the solder runs take a clean rag and wipe it smooth.
> It makes it a lot [lots] eaiser to solder lead to brass. In fact when lead
> was wiped to a corporation cock or a furrel all brass had to be tinned first.


Ok, good to know. I have never heard of that and we'll have to try it next time. Thank you for your advice.


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## UN1TED-WE-PLUMB (Oct 3, 2012)

Nice!! 

I love when I pull a toilet and find a brass flange.


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Too bad it's lower than the floor.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

ChrisConnor said:


> Too bad it's lower than the floor.


It may look like it is but I assure you it is not. It sat right on top of the floor like it's supposed to. If it had been below the floor I would have put the deep set flange in. Luckily I didn't need to because all I had was the shallow set.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

ChrisConnor said:


> Too bad it's lower than the floor.


I took another look and I think what you are mistaking for a void is dark concrete. The old flooring below the newer vinyl was also still there and you can see the edge of it. I can see why you would think its recessed or flush with the floor, though.


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Ahh, well, now you know one of my pet peeve of plumbing. One is toilet flanges below the finished floor and the other is inaccessible clean outs. :yes:


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

UN1TED-WE-PLUMB said:


> Nice!!
> 
> I love when I pull a toilet and find a brass flange.


Same here, except on this one the flange came up with the toilet hence why I had to replace it, which I also did not mind.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

ChrisConnor said:


> Ahh, well, now you know one of my pet peeve of plumbing. One is toilet flanges below the finished floor and the other is inaccessible clean outs. :yes:


Yeah, clean outs located right behind a huge boiler are awesome.


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

Lead wiping is a lost art. Good job


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

You know this might be telling my age a little but until two weeks before my journeyman s test we still had to wipe a lead joint. It was a 2in pipe in a brass ferrule. I was greatly released and disappointed at the same time.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

wyrickmech said:


> You know this might be telling my age a little but until two weeks before my journeyman s test we still had to wipe a lead joint. It was a 2in pipe in a brass ferrule. I was greatly released and disappointed at the same time.


That is aging you a little.


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

That was the year1985 still have a lot of lead pipe in the older houses around the state. Some towns still have lead water services.


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## suzie (Sep 1, 2010)

Could you use tapcons in the concrete? Nicely done by the way


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

suzie said:


> Could you use tapcons in the concrete? Nicely done by the way


Thank you and, yes, that would probably work. And the last time I tried was many years ago. Now I have a better hammer drill that would work but I have gotten to where I don't even try anymore and haven't had any issues that I know of. Also, oftentimes there is such a gap around the pipe that the flange just has dirt below and I wouldn't be able to make it work. Maybe next time I will give it a shot if its possible. I know that it would be better. In fact, I have to pull a one piece Kohler tomorrow that's leaking at the base so maybe I will get an opportunity.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

Another trick for mushy concrete that won't let you set tapcons or anchors is to chip out the gnarly stuff, then throw a little anchor cement down into the void, put enough that the collar gets embedded in it. Make sure to clean out the johnny bolt slots. Usually you don't need to drill any tapcons now. If you want and have time, let it set up, then install anchors.


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

422 plumber said:


> Another trick for mushy concrete that won't let you set tapcons or anchors is to chip out the gnarly stuff, then throw a little anchor cement down into the void, put enough that the collar gets embedded in it. Make sure to clean out the johnny bolt slots. Usually you don't need to drill any tapcons now. If you want and have time, let it set up, then install anchors.


I have done that with hydronic concrete but I put the anchors in before I pour the mix then when it hardens snug the anchors and you are good to go.


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## vinpadalino (Aug 27, 2010)

That's cool never done one of those.


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## Plumbus (Aug 4, 2008)

422 plumber said:


> Another trick for mushy concrete that won't let you set tapcons or anchors is to chip out the gnarly stuff, then throw a little anchor cement down into the void, put enough that the collar gets embedded in it. Make sure to clean out the johnny bolt slots. Usually you don't need to drill any tapcons now. If you want and have time, let it set up, then install anchors.





wyrickmech said:


> I have done that with hydronic concrete but I put the anchors in before I pour the mix then when it hardens snug the anchors and you are good to go.


Wyrickmech and I must have had the same teacher. No time for snoozin' when that stuff starts to heat up. Got to pour it quick or start all over again.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

I just installed a Sioux Chief 4" push fit replacement flange. Previously I had broken off the remainder of the cast iron flange. After new tile was put down, there was a void of a couple inches all around. I made up some hydroplug and inserted the flange. I pushed tapcons into the mix and let it sit while I installed a faucet, came back and it was anchored down good! I probably didn't even need the tapcons, but I used them anyway.


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

We have all probably pulled a toilet with the flange still hanging on there b4. But ever think you cut all the caulk all the way around and still have the tile off a rotten floor come with it? Love that one. Even better still, have Johnny bolts out, caulk removed, straddled the bowl to lift it off the flange and your foot goes through the floor on one side up to your knee & through the celing below? Another fun day at work I try to delete from my memory but cant. One other comes to mind some A-hole uses liquid nails to set a bowl. Hammer removed that one.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

theplumbinator said:


> We have all probably pulled a toilet with the flange still hanging on there b4. But ever think you cut all the caulk all the way around and still have the tile off a rotten floor come with it? Love that one. Even better still have Johnny bolts out, caulk removed, straddled the bowl to lift it off the flange and your foot goes through the floor on one side up to your knee through the celing below? Another fun day at work I try to delete from my memory but cant.


Damn. I've never had that happen,, thank God. I take it you did not put the new toilet in?


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## theplumbinator (Sep 6, 2012)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> Damn. I've never had that happen,, thank God. I take it you did not put the new toilet in?


No floor left to set it on. Gave lady the number for a good carpenter/tile guy. Would have done it myself these days, but at that time company I used to work for did strictly water,waste,& hydronic heat. Did not want to be bothered with anything else.


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