# Putting together 12" sch 80 pvc



## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

I getting ready to repipe about 20' of 12" sch 80 pvc pipe. Three 12" 90s and four 12" vanstone flanges. Looking for any extra tips. We have the gallon cans of supper slow setting glue with big rollers and gallons of clear cleaner. I think the tricky part is gonna be have to work 10' in the air. I'm thinking scaffolding instead of ladders. I'll post pics as soon as we get started. For one 12" molded 90 is around 900$ a piece. So needless to say the boss didn't order any extras


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

Use riser clamps as leverage. Like handles to hold back on pipe. 2x4s as stiff legs to help on the sweep of the 90s do you have something to push against.


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

Kleinfelterj said:


> I getting ready to repipe about 20' of 12" sch 80 pvc pipe. Three 12" 90s and four 12" vanstone flanges. Looking for any extra tips. We have the gallon cans of supper slow setting glue with big rollers and gallons of clear cleaner. I think the tricky part is gonna be have to work 10' in the air. I'm thinking scaffolding instead of ladders. I'll post pics as soon as we get started. For one 12" molded 90 is around 900$ a piece. So needless to say the boss didn't order any extras


I responded to a post a while ago, similar question, I'll see if I can find it.


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

http://www.plumbingzone.com/showthread.php?t=31454


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

Kleinfelterj said:


> I getting ready to repipe about 20' of 12" sch 80 pvc pipe. Three 12" 90s and four 12" vanstone flanges. Looking for any extra tips. We have the gallon cans of supper slow setting glue with big rollers and gallons of clear cleaner. I think the tricky part is gonna be have to work 10' in the air. I'm thinking scaffolding instead of ladders. I'll post pics as soon as we get started. For one 12" molded 90 is around 900$ a piece. So needless to say the boss didn't order any extras


Make sure you get to spin the fittings as you are cementing them together,if you just push the fitting into the cement with no spin as it bottoms out you will have leaks on sch 80 big pipe


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

Scissor lift(s) if possible.


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## pianoplumber (Apr 19, 2014)

Scaffolding is a wise choice. You want one guy doing the "business" end of priming and gluing and shouting "we're home". You want the taller guy, with more leverage, standing on the scaffold, pushing the pipe and holding it. Having scaffold at both ends would help, because big plastic pipe sucks to glue in the air. You need your body for leverage.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

When you are applying the cement to pipe and fitting,when you think you have enough on it,apply that much more,that stuff leaks real easy for some reason,fly out had a good point about using the riser clamps to get leverage,some of those fittings go in easy,and some won't go for nothing


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## wharfrat (Nov 1, 2014)

Hope all goes well, I can't wait to see the pictures. 

Flyouts advice always sounds like gold to my ears.


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## marc76075 (Nov 24, 2010)

Chamfer the pipe end and sand the pipe the depth of the hub, just enough to take the shine off.


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## plumbdrum (Nov 30, 2013)

marc76075 said:


> Chamfer the pipe end and sand the pipe the depth of the hub, just enough to take the shine off.



You stole my thunder, rough up that plastic. I did the fitting as well with Emory cloth also, then primed everything. Never had any leaks


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## marc76075 (Nov 24, 2010)

plumbdrum said:


> You stole my thunder, rough up that plastic. I did the fitting as well with Emory cloth also, then primed everything. Never had any leaks


I didn't mention the fittings, so I think we can share the thunder. I'm willing to go 60/40 thunder split.


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

Use the right glue. Heavy body glue gives more time and is rated for that size pipe. I have seen that mistake often.


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

Clamps & a soil pipe assembly tool to seat & hold, won't help on spinning.

Old school, why not thread it save set up time?? SCH80 threaded fittings ASTM D-2464. Pipe ASTM D-1785


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## saysflushable (Jun 15, 2009)

I say dry fit everything 1st. that will make it more fun.


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

Thanks for the input. I'll for sure post some pics. I really like the riser clamp for leverage


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## TC27 (Mar 10, 2012)

sparky said:


> Make sure you get to spin the fittings as you are cementing them together,if you just push the fitting into the cement with no spin as it bottoms out you will have leaks on sch 80 big pipe



Good luck spinning the fitting... lol. Push it on generally where you want it, 10 seconds it will be set up and the fitting isn't moving. 

I agree, get a scissor lift. You are going to need some ass to get those fittings home. Should be around a what, 9" stab?


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

If your in a ditch a pinch bar is a must.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

TC27 said:


> Good luck spinning the fitting... lol. Push it on generally where you want it, 10 seconds it will be set up and the fitting isn't moving.
> 
> I agree, get a scissor lift. You are going to need some ass to get those fittings home. Should be around a what, 9" stab?


I've done it before,some will go on easy others will fight you all the way


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

saysflushable said:


> I say dry fit everything 1st. that will make it more fun.


Prime it 1st though...:laughing:


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

Here is a few pics of some 10" getting put back together. This is the glue they got us. It's like tar


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

I'd that for water main?


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## saysflushable (Jun 15, 2009)

Redwood said:


> Prime it 1st though...:laughing:


 could you imagine trying to knock those apart. Or even the cost of glueing one up but having it a few degrees off and not being able to turn it anymore. I think I would just call it a day and never come back.


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

saysflushable said:


> could you imagine trying to knock those apart. Or even the cost of glueing one up but having it a few degrees off and not being able to turn it anymore. I think I would just call it a day and never come back.


two piece flange no need to two hole you can spin it all day long.


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

The piping is for the filters for our wave pool and lazy river. We are overhauling the filters this winter so while we have everything apart were gonna fix a few things from the original install.


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## Flyout95 (Apr 13, 2012)

Fun.


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

The 12" pipe and fittings showed up today. We have to send the 90s back. They sent us fabricated instead of molded.


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## pianoplumber (Apr 19, 2014)

My sympathies, this looks like it would suck. Roll grooved steel would be easier. I've used that glue, it sucks too. Nice straight trench drains, by the way.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Kleinfelterj said:


> The 12" pipe and fittings showed up today. We have to send the 90s back. They sent us fabricated instead of molded.
> 
> View attachment 38633
> 
> ...


What's the difference between the 2?


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## FL pipe dope (Dec 3, 2014)

First Of all make sure you use the correct primer and cement. Use a good hot primer like IPS P 70. The riser clamp idea is good. Consider putting a pair of ratchet straps on either side of the two clamps to have a mechanical puller. You will be surprised how quickly the cement begins to set up. Many an installation is thwarted by the cement grabbing prior to full socket depth pipe insertion. They actually make mechanical pullers for this purpose. It's not like shoving together 2 inch DWV. Leave the pulling assembly in place for 20 or 30 minutes to allow for set and cure time. Ambient temperature is critical as well. If you are working in cold climates your set and cure time is dramatically extended. If you need, I have the telephone number of the IPS cement technical manager. Those big fittings are expensive and you don't want to do this again.


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

All good ideas also bevel the end of the pipe to keep the glue from being scraped out of the joint. If you bevel the end of the pipe the glue will roll and you will keep a full joint.


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

Fabricated are a lot longer sweep and and they are like segmented. Molded are one piece true 90 and are like double the price of the prefabricated style. My boss doesn't like the way the fabricated ones look either. The room temp where we will be working in pretty much a constant 65


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

Fittings showed up today


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

For some reason I can't post anymore pic. Anyone else having problems?


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

This is what we are replacing. We're starting off the discharge of the pump and replacing all leaking fittings and new stainless checks and metra flex couplings.


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

12" stainless check. And some 14" spool pieces we made today.


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

Starting point and ending point


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## pianoplumber (Apr 19, 2014)

Awesome pics! I wanna see the pumps!
How long did the old sch 80 last before it failed?


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

It's leaked since day one. It was installed in 2007. The company went out of business rite after they finished. We just dealt with a wet floor during our three months of operation. But my boss finally had enough and budgeted this year for repairing all the 12 and 14". Next year were gonna tackle some 10" stuff. Little bits at a time.


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## FL pipe dope (Dec 3, 2014)

Some of The pipe looks a lighter gray than the fittings. Is any of it CPVC schedule 80?
You know why it leaked since day one don't you?... Poor workmanship? Putting that big diameter stuff together is like alligator wrestling!!!


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

It's is lighter but it's not cpvc. I think it's just the brand pipe. The fittings came directly from spears. But the pipe came from one of our supply houses


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## FL pipe dope (Dec 3, 2014)

Might be interesting to look inside some of the connections you were removing. Are they seated all the way? Are they cut straight? Curious why it leaked from day one. That big diameter stuff is easy to look inside after you remove it. Consider posting pictures of what you're removing as well. We seldom get to see the inside of material in service.


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

So far everything we put together went pretty smooth. We marked to fitting depth so we didn't over prime and we glued the heck out of it. It seemed to bottom out in the fitting no problem


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

I'll snap some pics on Monday of the old stuff. Some of it broke when it hit the floor. So you can really see the fitting didn't have near enough glue


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## pianoplumber (Apr 19, 2014)

Hard to say why it leaked. Using one-step glue/primer (like electricians use on sch 80) aint gonna last long. I've done greenhouse work where heat and humidity cause rapid failure of glue joints. This being a wave pool, chlorine must be high. And I STILL wanna see the PUMPS!


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## FL pipe dope (Dec 3, 2014)

Typically if it is glued correctly with all the right steps, cements, and primers, and cured before being pressurized it won't leak. I'm still betting the original installation was deficient. The old joints leaked. correct? Not a pipe or fitting leak, rather connection between the two if I am understanding your scenario? Thanks for The post. Your work looks very professional.


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

Few more pics from today. I'll have more tomorrow. Forgot my phone in the shop after lunch


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## titaniumplumbr (Jun 11, 2014)

It's the gray cement right


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## titaniumplumbr (Jun 11, 2014)

Yeah fl pipe dope... That's the kicker half the time the supply houses don't even know what they are dealing with the darker colored pipe is cpvc schedule 80 and the lighter is regular pvc schedule 80 or is it the other way around also they both work with each other


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## FL pipe dope (Dec 3, 2014)

CPVC is lighter in color...although not by much. And don't count on the color for ID. NEVER trust the supplier!!! They won't be the ones responsible for a material issue if it's wrong. YOURE THE LICENSE HOLDER!!! They try, but the end game is on you. As far as cement, don't cheat on the right stuff. Wait for it if you have to. Need the IPS tech reps phone? if you do connect CPVC and PVC use CPVC cement. BTW, that's common in water service connections.


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## swidere (Feb 10, 2015)

*12 inch pipe*

it can be a ***** your best bet is pre fab on the ground first the killer is the height then take the glase off the fitting and the pipe by sanding the put a bevel on the pipe then clean it use acetone not cleaner get a gallon can use liberally then glue use the gray stuff its heavy duty then put to geather you cant stwist it then put a top coat of glue or if not all this just weld it useing those long rods hope this helps


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## marc76075 (Nov 24, 2010)

FL pipe dope said:


> CPVC is lighter in color...although not by much. And don't count on the color for ID. NEVER trust the supplier!!! They won't be the ones responsible for a material issue if it's wrong. YOURE THE LICENSE HOLDER!!! They try, but the end game is on you. As far as cement, don't cheat on the right stuff. Wait for it if you have to. Need the IPS tech reps phone? if you do connect CPVC and PVC use CPVC cement. BTW, that's common in water service connections.


You should never be gluing cpvc and pvc together. Use flanges on large pipe and threaded adapters on small water lines. Sure the joint will probably hold, but why take a chance. Do things right and sleep well.


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

We pre fab as much as possible on the ground. We are using industrial cleaner and heavy body gray glue. After we glue it. We take a rag and wipe the joint filling in any gaps inside and out. So far we haven't had any problems pushing it together. I think one key thing is to make sure the pipe is nice an square when inserting into the fitting. They push together a lot easier.


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

Kleinfelterj said:


> We pre fab as much as possible on the ground. We are using industrial cleaner and heavy body gray glue. After we glue it. We take a rag and wipe the joint filling in any gaps inside and out. So far we haven't had any problems pushing it together. I think one key thing is to make sure the pipe is nice an square when inserting into the fitting. They push together a lot easier.


If you are solvent welding pvc/cpvc you should be using primer applied immediately before glue. Cleaner will not provide solvent "weld".


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

I mis spoke. It is primer not cleaner


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

14" spools and new 14" butterfly valves


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

We had to shave the inside of the spool on the one side for the butterfly to clear.


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)




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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

First run of 12" all tied in. We're just waiting on our hardware to finish the hangers and bolts at the pump


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## FL pipe dope (Dec 3, 2014)

As far as attaching PVC to CPVC with glue, I'm speaking of smaller diameter. In fact Charlotte pipe has a letter explaining how to do it. Large diameter: flanges. Prefab on the floor is the way to go. A word of caution in the air however: your leverage will be decreased. Be prepared to use some type of a pulling assist device. As I said before the work looks very professional. You should be proud of that job. I bet that small mechanical room smells great by quitting time?!?!


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## pianoplumber (Apr 19, 2014)

Oh baby, them are some big pumps! No wonder the pipes wear out.


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## marc76075 (Nov 24, 2010)

FL pipe dope said:


> As far as attaching PVC to CPVC with glue, I'm speaking of smaller diameter. In fact Charlotte pipe has a letter explaining how to do it. Large diameter: flanges. Prefab on the floor is the way to go. A word of caution in the air however: your leverage will be decreased. Be prepared to use some type of a pulling assist device. As I said before the work looks very professional. You should be proud of that job. I bet that small mechanical room smells great by quitting time?!?!


Florida code 605.24.2 " joints between different grades of plastic pipe or between plastic pipe and other piping material shall be made with an approved adapter fitting." I would like to take a look at that letter from Charlotte.


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## Kleinfelterj (Jan 23, 2012)

Final pieces pre fabbed and installed today. Everything went together really smooth.


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