# How do you stub out of wall when running pex?



## Alan

We stub out of the wall with pex when we plumb with it. I wish we could use copper stubs to make it more solid. Framers, electricians, heat guys, sheetrockers, etc. kick the crap out of our lines then they end up looking like an idiot put in the water lines coming out of the wall on a 45. I hate doing it this way, plus it looks like poo on the outside of the wall. :furious:


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## futz

I use Sioux Chief stub out elbows. They're not perfect, but they will take a bit of abuse and still look good at finish time. They're WAY cheaper than the parts and labor of building your own with a wingback, or even just with a regular elbow. Under 3 bucks each here in Canada (cheaper in the States). And they're fast and easy to install.


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## Ron

If you stub out pex only then use these for a rigid support.


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## ILPlumber

If pex is such a great material, why stub out copper? :laughing:

I would want the whole world to see my wonderful pex.


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## Airgap

I crimp on an ell, and stub out pex. If they're paying for pex, that's what they are getting. I always ask if they would rather have copper stubs, and it's almost always "how much more? No, that's alright"...


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## pauliplumber

I always run copper and use pex as my stub outs. I just gotta be different.:cool2:






Actually I do the same as Airgap. Pex house, pex stubouts. I will go out of my way like a madman to make sure something is going to work right, but I won't always kill myself to make something look pretty, if I feel it's not necessary. Use blocking and clip the $hit out of it.


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## futz

ILPlumber said:


> If pex is such a great material, why stub out copper? :laughing:


Because copper stubouts can take drywaller abuse and still end up straight, fairly solid and looking good. Because I prefer a nice solid CR19 valve rather than a BRPX19C that tends to twist in the crimp when you turn the handle, because they're on the same axis. I use only BRPX14C's for that reason. 

Pex is fine for what it is, and I run a ton of it, but I certainly don't use it everywhere.


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## TheMaster

If I'm using pex I stub out with pex. Its the drywallers job to cut his holes correctly around my pipes. I'm the plumber not the general contractor. Good drywallers dont have a problem and neither do I.


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## Miguel

I used to use the copper stubouts (still use them on toilets if I have to come out of the floor) but now I simply crimp on an elbow or use the turnout bend supports. meh.


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## Alan

pauliplumber said:


> I always run copper and use pex as my stub outs. I just gotta be different.:cool2:


I LOL'ed. :laughing::laughing:


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## KCplumber

Alan said:


> We stub out of the wall with pex when we plumb with it. I wish we could use copper stubs to make it more solid. Framers, electricians, heat guys, sheetrockers, etc. kick the crap out of our lines then they end up looking like an idiot put in the water lines coming out of the wall on a 45. I hate doing it this way, plus it looks like poo on the outside of the wall. :furious:


Tell your cheap-ass boss to charge an extra $50 and use the copper 

stub-outs & at least create the illusion of professionalism


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## PAGEINC13

I have always used the Holdrite steel brackets and the purple turnouts.. I've never had a problem with them! But even on a Pex job it still requires some use of copper for the W/H, H/B, kitchen stubouts & water service.


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## TheMaster

PAGEINC13 said:


> I have always used the Holdrite steel brackets and the purple turnouts.. I've never had a problem with them! But even on a Pex job it still requires some use of copper for the W/H, H/B, kitchen stubouts & water service.


 This is simply not a true statement. You dont hafta have copper to complete the mentioned tasks. To start off wtf does the kitchen stubouts have to do with it?:laughing: Pex is fine for a water service here aslong as you use the appropriate size. Hose bibbs get drop ells to screw into and mounted to the wall.:thumbup: The water heater could be connected with brass screw pipe or flex lines......no copper required. Copper is not king anymore:laughing: It doesn't matter whats better its whats available and legal. I dont see the big deal about bracing and straping pipe,you throw up a couple 2x4 scraps and nail the pex to it and it stays put.


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## PAGEINC13

TheMaster said:


> This is simply not a true statement. You dont hafta have copper to complete the mentioned tasks. To start off wtf does the kitchen stubouts have to do with it?:laughing: Pex is fine for a water service here aslong as you use the appropriate size. Hose bibbs get drop ells to screw into and mounted to the wall.:thumbup: The water heater could be connected with brass screw pipe or flex lines......no copper required. Copper is not king anymore:laughing: It doesn't matter whats better its whats available and legal. I dont see the big deal about bracing and straping pipe,you throw up a couple 2x4 scraps and nail the pex to it and it stays put.


 
Your right:yes::yes:...I worded that wrong! I...I still use some copper for a pex job! Its just what I was always use to doing when I worked track homes. Our company would send out copper fab for the W/H, H/B and Kitchens! The reason for the kitchens (WTF?:laughing was we would stub out 2 hot lines and 3 cold lines...2 of the cold lines would loop together and go to the refer line that way you could add your filter under the sink and it will filter the refer water too! Now making that loop with pex was just ugly so thats how it was done! So as far as the W/H and W/S goes..you stub out pex and adapt to Brass?? For the water heater I use a total of 18" of copper with a Pex adapter on top...Same for the water service..Stub up copper from the ground, then ball valve,regulator,H/B then stub into the house with 18'' of copper then pex adapter! Now thats just the way I do it and thats the way I see alot of pex jobs done around SoCal. BTW...IMO COPPER IS KING!!!!:laughing::thumbup:


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## Airgap




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## TheMaster

Heres pex all day long.


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## stillaround

I had some trouble with the pex copper stub outs. The barbed end was a bit too malleable and we had a couple leaks. We used drop ears for hose bibs and couldnt seem to tighten properly a few times and the stupid drop ear split after a month from over stress. Havent had a problem stubbing out pex. After a while the desire to see copper goes away and a great exhilarating feeling of pex everywhere captures you..basicly you dont give a rip because it looks just fine.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER

i stub out pex, thats what a manabloc does for you. I leave about 26 feet stubbed out in a roll, and ask the sheet rockers not to damage my pex when they hang the drywall.


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## Protech

I do just that and always have. 



Matt said:


> If pex is such a great material, why stub out copper? :laughing:
> 
> I would want the whole world to see my wonderful pex.


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## Protech

I use no copper at all when I'm running pex. The whole reason I'm there running pex is because the HO want's all the copper gone. Putting copper back in would get me some dirty looks from the HO.

We use hose bibs that have a pex barb machined right onto the valve body and bolt to the wall via tap-cons. We stub out all of the stops in pex with pex barbed valves. When hooking to gas heater we use threaded brass pipe.

NO COPPER AT ALL!

I take that back. We use hard type L for our tub/shower valve stub outs and risers. That is not continuously pressurized pipe though nor does in contain water for more than an hour or so per day. Even then, we use only water soluble flax and wipe/flush it out out really well. We also ream the tube and don't over heat it.


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## Everflow

I've always used the copper stub outs except were we come through the bottom of the cabinets.

There is just something about grabbing a angle stop and it being solid.


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## Alan

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> i stub out pex, thats what a manabloc does for you. I leave about 26 feet stubbed out in a roll, and ask the sheet rockers not to damage my pex when they hang the drywall.


:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## SummPlumb

I use the copper stub outs. I don't like the look of the blue or white colored pipe coming out of the wall.


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## jc60618

When were done water piping we put the angle stops on however we remove the handle and compression nut and ring. When trim comes we are always short of nut, rings and handles:laughing:


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## futz

jc60618 said:


> When were done water piping we put the angle stops on however we remove the handle and compression nut and ring. When trim comes we are always short of nut, rings and handles:laughing:


Umm... Why would you be short nuts/furls and handles? Do people steal them, or what?

I put valves on at final. Lately with all the faucets with their own flex tubes, I have a large surplus of nuts & furls. Used to have to buy them separately and keep in the finish parts box.


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## jc60618

futz said:


> Umm... Why would you be short nuts/furls and handles? Do people steal them, or what?
> 
> I put valves on at final. Lately with all the faucets with their own flex tubes, I have a large surplus of nuts & furls. Used to have to buy them separately and keep in the finish parts box.


 
I do mostly commercial work. When you have a four man water pipe crew someone is going to loose some of these items, then you multiply that by 40 or 50 stories and you end up with alot of missing handles, screws, nuts and furls. The reason we dont put angle stops on last is because you have to drain the risers, install the stops, make sure the stops are closed, fire up the risers and then pray they dont blow out and cause damage.


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## Bill

I just stub out and use plenty of clamps.


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## TheMaster




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## Miguel

That's funny right there. :laughing:



TheMaster said:


>


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## KCplumber

That be a lot of hot water in a small space :laughing:


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## Airgap

Dang TM, could'nt you have at least turned the lettering up on all them stubs. Hackjob...:laughing:


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## TheMaster

Airgap said:


> Dang TM, could'nt you have at least turned the lettering up on all them stubs. Hackjob...:laughing:


On short pieces somtimes theres no markings. I made sure atleast one stub out had identification.:thumbsup: Thats a good eye tho


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## pauliplumber

OK I'll ask .... why is there 4 stub outs?


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## TheMaster

pauliplumber said:


> OK I'll ask .... why is there 4 stub outs?


 You see two hots and two colds. Hot for K-sink and hot for dishwasher. Cold for K-sink and cold for ice maker. :thumbsup: I like to stub 4 pipes out like you see. Somtimes I will use the double stop with individual cut off's for 2 fixtures with one 1/2" inlet but today I decided to stub fo pipes out and use individual stops.


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## Bonafide

I agree with Airgap, if they want pex and not copper due to a slight price increase, give em pex.

I prefer copper, but i use both, except WC's and pedestal sinks, customers have no option other than copper.


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## Bollinger plumber

What is pex??? Do they make a scoopy doo dispenser for it???


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## TheMaster

Bonafide said:


> I agree with Airgap, if they want pex and not copper due to a slight price increase, give em pex.
> 
> I prefer copper, but i use both, except WC's and pedestal sinks, customers have no option other than copper.


Slight price increase? Your kidding right? At one time 3/4 copper was hovering around 3 bucks a ft. Not to mention the difference in labor. Its a big difference in cost.


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## Bonafide

TheMaster said:


> Slight price increase? Your kidding right? At one time 3/4 copper was hovering around 3 bucks a ft. Not to mention the difference in labor. Its a big difference in cost.


2' of 1/2" copper, (2) 90's and (2) adaptors, covers 2 stub outs...plus labor equals how much?

HO spending say about 3500 or whatevea on pipe and plumbing for a half bath addition, how MUCH MORE would you charge him for* 3 copper stub outs with labor(realistically wouldnt even take you an hour!)* 

....then compare it to $3,500, is it really a BIG difference?


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## TheMaster

Bonafide said:


> 2' of 1/2" copper, (2) 90's and (2) adaptors, covers 2 stub outs...plus labor equals how much?
> 
> HO spending say about 3500 or whatevea on pipe and plumbing for a half bath addition, how MUCH MORE would you charge him for* 3 copper stub outs with labor(realistically wouldnt even take you an hour!)*
> 
> ....then compare it to $3,500, is it really a BIG difference?


I thought you where comparing the cost of an entire copper vs pex install. Sorry....but I'll take you up on your question other than the price....you figure the price up...and then multiply that number by how many you do in your lifetime and then you get the number that matters. its like me going to the store and getting .50 cents back in change,going into the parking lot and throwing it.......its just .50 cents right? whats the big deal? Over time that .50 everytime would add up.


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## TheMaster

They never installed the wall back....oh well.


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## A Good Plumber

TheMaster said:


> They never installed the wall back....oh well.


 
Someone check this guys credentials. He plumbs like a DIY'er, hack, scab, farmer.


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## KCplumber

I just hope there was an airgap on that DW Could'nt see it on the pics

but I'm sure TM would'nt have missed it


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## Titan Plumbing

Hi-loops don't fail..............


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## rex

i like that type of sink baskets


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## TheMaster

A Good Plumber said:


> Someone check this guys credentials. He plumbs like a DIY'er, hack, scab, farmer.


 I'd plumb your momma's the same way.....scab and all:thumbsup:


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## A Good Plumber

:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## Asparta

what's with all the PVC drainage? Hasn't anyone heard of ABS? Or is it mandatory in the States to use PVC? Code states that at any fixture, 120 degree water is max, except say for a dishwasher. 
PVC is not required to handle those temps.


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## SummPlumb

The only ABS here in Ga is in some mobile homes. Everything here is PVC, or Cast, or Copper drains.


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## plumbpro

Hi loops are IPC approved, and they don't dribble water all over your sink and counter. Not even sure where you would start to look for ABS in AR


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## plumbpro

Oh, and I prefer to 90 pex out of the wall with either a bend support or a 90, clipped to something solid


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## PAGEINC13

So what angle stops is everyone using for Pex?? Back when I worked track homes we used the standard compression type with the stainless steel sleeve insert. I cant find those sleeves at the supply house though...

The ones I bought were $9 and some change....theres gotta be something more reasonably priced...Its Wirsbo/Pex BTW.


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