# Clean out repair idea?



## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

I cleaned out this clogged up 4" cast iron drain going out 15' to a septic tank and when I tried to screw in the brass Clean out plug the darn thing cracked on me. The plug is one of those thin ones that are only about 1/4"-1/2" thick and I only screwed it in maybe 1.5-2 turns and it cracked the cast iron on the left side of the picture. It was late and I was 30 minutes out of town so for now I just smears some silicone on the crack and I got it to seal but I would like to go back and do a more permanent fix on that cracked clean out. The Wye is all the way up to and little bit in the wall I think so it's not a simple thing to replace the Wye. 

Does anyone here have a good idea on how better to seal/repair the clean out ?

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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

what picture?


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

Shoot I'm tired and forgot the picture. So here it is.









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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Is it just the FIP or the hub too? 

Spanner plug! Sometimes you need to use those pesky brass caps..... if the threads are good. My supply house caries them.

Dane, please don’t take this wrong, I’m going to speak for my Master who isn’t even here.

“You have been doing this for how long? Go ahead, tell them, how long? You don’t know? WTF?! Where’s the hammer?!!” In front of you. “I need a 3” wye!... where’s 3x2 tee I asked for?!!!”

Even the supply house guys backed me up!

I love the guy like a father, don’t get me wrong, he is an azzhole! Sometimes he’s sharp as a whip, but sometimes you can give him every last detail, and nothing.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

Mip plug...... sorry, got gender confused for a moment....


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

OpenSights said:


> Mip plug...... sorry, got gender confused for a moment....


If by spanner plug you mean those with a cone shaped rubber seal that tightens up with a without then no I can't use that in this case which is why I asked for advise. Look closer, it might be hard to see but the brass MIP plug is in good shape. When screwing in the brass plug, the cast iron FIP cracked in 2 spots making it so a spanner plug would not work very good.

I know of enough ways to deal with the brass plug being bad but except for melting the lead and re sealing a new cast female adapter I'm not sure how I could seal this in a good way without replacing the cast iron Wye which would not be easy. I was even thinking maybe melting the lead and opening the hub if the Wye and putting a spanner plug in there but I'm not sure I could find one to fit in the 4" hub.









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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

Drill out the lead to get the broken fitting out. Get a new c/o fitting and use a rubber donut for the seal.


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

I wish I had access to those kind of "doughnut" I could of done a job last summer installing a BWV. I didn't take the job fearing I'd screw up the wye and have to excavate outside and replace everything in the slab. Or I'd be responsible for a flood if the city sewer backed up with rain.

I want to add C/O plugs over here need to be plastic now to prevent metal ones to seize up or make them easy to cut them out.


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

Debo22 said:


> Drill out the lead to get the broken fitting out. Get a new c/o fitting and use a rubber donut for the seal.


Now why did I not think of that. I know about those but have never seen one so maybe that's why I didn't think of it but that would work. Thanks.

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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

Tango said:


> I wish I had access to those kind of "doughnut" I could of done a job last summer installing a BWV. I didn't take the job fearing I'd screw up the wye and have to excavate outside and replace everything in the slab. Or I'd be responsible for a flood if the city sewer backed up with rain.
> 
> I want to add C/O plugs over here need to be plastic now to prevent metal ones to seize up or make them easy to cut them out.


I would have replaced that brass plug with a plastic one if I would have had one but I didn't. This one was almost seized up. I had to take it out with my extra big channellock but tried to put it in with my smaller channellock and it still cracked.

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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

The Dane said:


> If by spanner plug you mean those with a cone shaped rubber seal that tightens up with a without then no I can't use that in this case which is why I asked for advise. Look closer, it might be hard to see but the brass MIP plug is in good shape. When screwing in the brass plug, the cast iron FIP cracked in 2 spots making it so a spanner plug would not work very good.
> 
> I know of enough ways to deal with the brass plug being bad but except for melting the lead and re sealing a new cast female adapter I'm not sure how I could seal this in a good way without replacing the cast iron Wye which would not be easy. I was even thinking maybe melting the lead and opening the hub if the Wye and putting a spanner plug in there but I'm not sure I could find one to fit in the 4" hub.
> 
> ...


I didn’t see that crack. Yeah, fernco bushing or pvc clean out and liquid lead would be a legal repair here.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Quote:
Originally Posted by *Debo22*  
_Drill out the lead to get the broken fitting out. Get a new c/o fitting and use a rubber donut for the seal._

Now why did I not think of that. I know about those but have never seen one so maybe that's why I didn't think of it but that would work. Thanks.


this +1....or melt the lead out if the fitting is vertical for the lead to drain out..


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Debo22*
> _Drill out the lead to get the broken fitting out. Get a new c/o fitting and use a rubber donut for the seal._
> 
> ...


*Band the joint with strap copper. Use a closet bolt to get enough pressure on the joint. Then take out the brass plug, replace plug with plastic. If the threads are screwed up use a heat gun on the plastic, make your own threads to fit. *


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Can all that old cast iron be cut out and re-done with sch. 40 PVC? If there is room well above that wye and below I would cut all that old garbage out and replace instead of trying to monkey with that bushing.
If there is no room, then of course you'll have to repair the wye by replacing the cracked bushing.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

The Dane said:


> If by spanner plug you mean those with a cone shaped rubber seal that tightens up with a without then no I can't use that in this case which is why I asked for advise. Look closer, it might be hard to see but the brass MIP plug is in good shape. When screwing in the brass plug, the cast iron FIP cracked in 2 spots making it so a spanner plug would not work very good.
> 
> I know of enough ways to deal with the brass plug being bad but except for melting the lead and re sealing a new cast female adapter I'm not sure how I could seal this in a good way without replacing the cast iron Wye which would not be easy. I was even thinking maybe melting the lead and opening the hub if the Wye and putting a spanner plug in there but I'm not sure I could find one to fit in the 4" hub.
> 
> ...



your mistake was using teflon tape and it looks like some pipe dope, that combo lubricates the threads too much and you dont feel the plug tightening and then you over do it and crack the fitting, this is true with any tapered thread...
this repair is being over thinked...if the cast y is in good condition just pop out the cleanout and put a new one in..and make sure you charge the customer...and move on to the next repair...


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## canuck92 (Apr 1, 2016)

Peel lead an oakum an pc4 a plastic c.o on


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## Venomthirst (Jun 20, 2018)

canuck92 said:


> Peel lead an oakum an pc4 a plastic c.o on


I was just going to suggest the same thing done it many times in a pinch


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

canuck92 said:


> Peel lead an oakum an pc4 a plastic c.o on


I was searching for pc4, I can't find where they sell that stuff anymore. They used to sell it at Rona.


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## Standard Drain (Feb 17, 2016)

I would cut the bell off and do what they said above. I also have just put a fernco cap over the bell. For the 4 inch line its usually a 5 or 6 inch fernco cap.


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## canuck92 (Apr 1, 2016)

Tango said:


> canuck92 said:
> 
> 
> > Peel lead an oakum an pc4 a plastic c.o on
> ...


We got a tin of it at the shop ill ask tomorow an let you know


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## canuck92 (Apr 1, 2016)

If you've never used pc-4 
First wear a mask.
Rip the rop for desierd length, wet it in water, squeeze out water an pack it in tight repeat untill the joint is almost full then i use a 3/4 wax seal an fill the rest in.


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## Venomthirst (Jun 20, 2018)

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw2WI4P4J8VX_QyyjfyryKKR.... I'm guessing any lyn car supplier would have it.. so emco or noble trade up here in Canada... I'm not sure about suppliers in states agreed where a mask it's basically hydraulic cement impregnated oakum.. if you get the stuff in your lungs silicosis for sure..

Tango for you desco is an online supplier and they carry the stuff it's always good to have on truck in a pinch..
I like it better than fernco rubber gaskets as I have seen them leak if it plugs up.


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

Tommy plumber said:


> Can all that old cast iron be cut out and re-done with sch. 40 PVC? If there is room well above that wye and below I would cut all that old garbage out and replace instead of trying to monkey with that bushing.
> If there is no room, then of course you'll have to repair the wye by replacing the cracked bushing.


Anything can be cut out but I this case it's a big pain to do that.

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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

canuck92 said:


> If you've never used pc-4
> First wear a mask.
> Rip the rop for desierd length, wet it in water, squeeze out water an pack it in tight repeat untill the joint is almost full then i use a 3/4 wax seal an fill the rest in.


Wax why???


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## The Dane (Feb 19, 2015)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> your mistake was using teflon tape and it looks like some pipe dope, that combo lubricates the threads too much and you dont feel the plug tightening and then you over do it and crack the fitting, this is true with any tapered thread...
> this repair is being over thinked...if the cast y is in good condition just pop out the cleanout and put a new one in..and make sure you charge the customer...and move on to the next repair...


It's a grey Teflon tape not pipe dope so tape only and then after the fact I put silicone on to seal the crack. I had a 10" channellock so smaller one and I did not put my muscle to it just got it in about 1.5 threads out of the maybe 4 threads on the plug. Yes the Wye is in good condition and there is no over thinking here and if we had the tools and some one old enough to know how then we could just take it out and lead in a new one but no one around here knows how to do lead joints anymore. I think removing the old lead and cast and putting in a doughnut with a new pvc clean out is what I'll do but like I stated I knew about those doughnuts but have never seen one so I did not think of it at first.

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## Venomthirst (Jun 20, 2018)

Probably to give it a little more protection from leaking before the cement cures.. I actually usually leave mine a bit wet and pack it in with a flat head or a file depending what's handy... I've had to use wax around pipe that a m.j wouldn't seal up on it was 6" 4 band m.j xfr pipe for some reason just wouldn't seal everything was clean perfect hook it up and it was dripping Arg!


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Standard Drain said:


> I would cut the bell off and do what they said above. I also have just put a fernco cap over the bell. For the 4 inch line its usually a 5 or 6 inch fernco cap.



I have done a 6" jim cap many times. A 4" clay sized jim cap fits perfect on standard weight, 6" IPS size for xh hubs. A 6" IPS will fit a standard hub if you sock it down real good  Make sure you use a flap wheel or at least wire wheel on the outside of the hub first so it is smooth. After cleaning cast iron surfaces I paint on some abs glue to make a nice smooth, rust resistant finish that will seal well.



Another option is to use an angle grinder to cut off the fip adapter flush and then use a marq two plug or a jones stephens lead fitall plug.


You could also use a chisel to punch the rest of the fip adapter in and then put a plug inside the lead ring or peel that out too and put a plug in the hub.



The tyseal, fernco doughnut, whatever you call it is a good option too but can be a real pain to hammer in sometimes. Before you go pounding on that hub I suggest a large hose clamp or some strap like bill mentioned on the outside of the hub to stop it from splitting too.



I keep a cupped wire wheel with 1/4" hex shank in my bag to use with my impact. It will clean anything. Old putty off sink drainholes, old cast iron hubs, the lime off just about anything. I love it.


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

skoronesa said:


> The tyseal, fernco doughnut, whatever you call it is a good option too but can be a real pain to hammer in sometimes. Before you go pounding on that hub I suggest a large hose clamp or some strap like bill mentioned on the outside of the hub to stop it from splitting too.
> 
> 
> 
> I keep a cupped wire wheel with 1/4" hex shank in my bag to use with my impact. It will clean anything. Old putty off sink drainholes, old cast iron hubs, the lime off just about anything. I love it.


Lube the Fernco donut with dish soap and it’ll slide in with pressure but you won’t need to pound it in. 

I like that wire wheel for the impact driver. I have one for my grinder but it’s a pain to switch out the cut off wheel and install it.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Debo22 said:


> Lube the Fernco donut with dish soap and it’ll slide in with pressure but you won’t need to pound it in.
> 
> I like that wire wheel for the impact driver. I have one for my grinder but it’s a pain to switch out the cut off wheel and install it.



they sell a special lube for that, we call it " duck butter" dont even ask where that name came from, thats what its been called since i started plumbing..


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> they sell a special lube for that, we call it " duck butter" dont even ask where that name came from, thats what its been called since i started plumbing..



The message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 3 characters.


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

like they say " hidden in plain sight"..:vs_laugh:


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## chonkie (Jul 31, 2014)

I've had the pleasure of trying to install one of those rubber seals one time, and can tell you right now that spit does not work worth a damn.

lol, duck butter pic reminded me of where this intro ended up.
https://www.plumbingzone.com/f3/new-member-56289/


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

chonkie said:


> I've had the pleasure of trying to install one of those rubber seals one time, and can tell you right now that spit does not work worth a damn.
> 
> lol, duck butter pic reminded me of where this intro ended up.
> https://www.plumbingzone.com/f3/new-member-56289/


Wow I hadn't seen that one, Awesome! Funny how one liner intros never end up going anywhere. What's the point of creating an account????


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## ShtRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

chonkie said:


> I've had the pleasure of trying to install one of those rubber seals one time, and can tell you right now that spit does not work worth a damn.
> 
> lol, duck butter pic reminded me of where this intro ended up.
> https://www.plumbingzone.com/f3/new-member-56289/





the only thing spit can lube and has to do with pipe cleaning..just ask most females...:vs_laugh::vs_laugh:


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