# K60 or K1500?



## sierra2000

Are they for two different purposes - K60 everyday main line machine and K1500 for the heavy duty or 6" and above? I'm leaning towards the K60 but thought I'd ask those who have one or both. I know its great for roof tops which may be the main reason I break down and get one for when they don't want to buy a cleanout install. Is the power comparable to Spartan 1065 going through roots?


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## gear junkie

I'd buy the k60 and a dreel. If you want a k1500, drive up so I stop tripping over the darn thing! The dreel is stronger then the 1065 by far.


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## sierra2000

I've been watching the dreel threads. Not sure I'm ready for that yet. How's the k-60 compare to 1065 on roots?


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

The k60 has turned my spartan 2001 (exact same as the 1065) into a dust collector, most of my lines are 4" haven't had to go out past 110' yet (well with my last shop I would go past 125'many times with the 1065) but I've been in some good rooted up clay lines and the k60 pulled out mucho roots. Almost thinking of selling the 2001 to fund a camera. Really don't think the 2001 will be needed once I get a root ranger, a camera and finely tune my jetter...and of course THE K-60 (maybe the dreel also LOL)


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

sierra2000 said:


> I've been watching the dreel threads. Not sure I'm ready for that yet. How's the k-60 compare to 1065 on roots?


To be honest I haven't noticed a big difference between the two. I would have to say the 2001 in a heavy rooted up main may be a little faster as it does a good job of ripping the root out, but that's to be expected with the added steps running the sectionals. As far as power, the k60 relies on high rpm to shred, I do notice I have to work heavy roots a little slower and bite little by little but to me the difference is negligible in relation to the ease of getting the unit from point a to point b. if you ever get to schedule a heavy root line cleaning shoot me a pm I may be available to come up your way with the k60 and we can hit the job together and see for yourself.


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## PlumberDave

been using a K60 as my go to sewer machine for 15years now, had to dig it up once when it left the line. Been concerned a time or two when I first started using it as it is a finesse machine not a power machine, and takes a few concerned moments before you learn to let it do the work. the 1500 is too much floor space in my van. Against drums I'll take my K60 every time.


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## sierra2000

Shoot'N'Plumber said:


> To be honest I haven't noticed a big difference between the two. I would have to say the 2001 in a heavy rooted up main may be a little faster as it does a good job of ripping the root out, but that's to be expected with the added steps running the sectionals. As far as power, the k60 relies on high rpm to shred, I do notice I have to work heavy roots a little slower and bite little by little but to me the difference is negligible in relation to the ease of getting the unit from point a to point b. if you ever get to schedule a heavy root line cleaning shoot me a pm I may be available to come up your way with the k60 and we can hit the job together and see for yourself.


I didn't realize you were in California, may take you up on that. Thanks.


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## gear junkie

My biggest reason for the dreel is because I have bad knees and a reconstructed shoulder. The k60 really make me feel it at times. The dreel seems to take a smidgen longer but I'm not hurtin at all when I get done.


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## Plumbducky

I use a 1500 and love it for what it does, It does take time to get setup. I would love to stumble across a deal for a 60. The 1500 doesn't back down from anything that I have put it up against. Longest run was 185' to the blockage.


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## plbgbiz

On residential, the K60 is more useful. We keep 150' of 7/8" and 75' of 5/8" cable on each van. The 1500 sits in the shop.


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## Will

I love the K60 and I would highly recommend it, but it is nothing compared to the 1065. Nor is the 2001, with its safety features. 

What machines do you currently have and what kinds of lines are you getting into? That will help us point you to the right machine.

I have cleared many lines with roots with the K60, but there are better options out there. What I love the K60 for is roof vents, through pulled toilets etc.


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## sierra2000

Will said:


> I love the K60 and I would highly recommend it, but it is nothing compared to the 1065. Nor is the 2001, with its safety features. What machines do you currently have and what kinds of lines are you getting into? That will help us point you to the right machine. I have cleared many lines with roots with the K60, but there are better options out there. What I love the K60 for is roof vents, through pulled toilets etc.


 The only mainline machine I have is the 300. It's come up short clearing roots a handful of times. I only get into 4" and 6" roots in residential. I'd like something to take on the occasional roof, toilet drains or when there are lots of stairs. On a ground level cleanout with heavy roots would you go for the 1065 over K60?
Sounds like its good to have a variety of machines for different situations.


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## Will

K60 is about the same powerful as a 300. I'd get the K60 since you got a Brute jetter right?

If I had both and I knew it could be a tough blockage(concrete or clay sewer for example) if I had both K60 and 1065 I grab the 1065


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## wallingford

I don't do much drain cleaning but i have both machines and i feel that if u have a k-60 and a jetter you won't be liking the space the k1500 and 2-4 coils of large cables take on the truck for the few times you are gonna use it.


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## TheDrainGuy

sierra2000 said:


> The only mainline machine I have is the 300. It's come up short clearing roots a handful of times. I only get into 4" and 6" roots in residential. I'd like something to take on the occasional roof, toilet drains or when there are lots of stairs. On a ground level cleanout with heavy roots would you go for the 1065 over K60? Sounds like its good to have a variety of machines for different situations.


If you want something to take on roofs k60 is the way to go.


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## dclarke

I should have bought a k-60 off craigslist last month when I had the chance. $475 with 5/8 and 7/8 cable


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## TheDrainGuy

I just don't think a k60 is an everyday main line machine. I can't see cleaning a 6" clay line 90'-100' long with roots at every joint with a spear head on a 5/8" or 7/8" cable.


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## dclarke

I want a k-60 because our shop has a 1500 but its to large to carry on a van all the time and it would be nice to have a machine that can do the majority of drain calls.


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## gear junkie

TheDrainGuy said:


> I just don't think a k60 is an everyday main line machine. I can't see cleaning a 6" clay line 90'-100' long with roots at every joint with a spear head on a 5/8" or 7/8" cable.


No cable machine would excel at that....only a jetter. I sold my 1065 after I got my K60 and have NEVER regretted it.


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

gear junkie said:


> No cable machine would excel at that....only a jetter. I sold my 1065 after I got my K60 and have NEVER regretted it.


Every time I hear something like that it just continually reaffirms the need to sell the 2001 and buy a camera. If all goes well with a few upcoming projects including a big one I'm on now a camera will be in my near future.


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## Will

Shoot'N'Plumber said:


> Every time I hear something like that it just continually reaffirms the need to sell the 2001 and buy a camera. If all goes well with a few upcoming projects including a big one I'm on now a camera will be in my near future.


Just make sure you buy a Ridgid SeeSnake


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

Will said:


> Just make sure you buy a Ridgid SeeSnake


ABSOLUTELY!! I'm not playing the lets save $3k and get a sleazy-cam:laughing:I'm doin it once and right, prolly not even gonna buy used


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## sierra2000

How much for the 2001 if you sell it? PM me if you want.


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## gear junkie

Shoot N told me he'd sell it to me for 600. Make sure you get the same deal


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## sierra2000

A lot of mixed feelings on the K60. I don't know now. I have a Spartan 200 in the garage, I think I'll put that on my truck for any roof jobs. It won't be as light as the K60 I know but it breaks down so I can haul it up on the roof. I may just stick with what I know and am used to (drum machines) and get a 1065 or 2001 for tougher lines other than my 300.


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## HP plumber

I just got k 60 love it safer and easier on leather gloves. Not a big fan of small selection of cutter heads but I think you can adapt to general heads. Tool up online has the best price I could find. no tax. I bought k60 spe kit wit xtra 7/8 basket with 75' of cable and 5/8 basket and 45' and bought 4 additional 5/9 cables to make 75 feet. The mainline cutter head for Roots was too big so I cut off one side and made it a half cutter. The weightless ness of it makes it safer to me and that is worth its weight in gold even if u have to get used to messing with sections. All it takes is one tired late call and u pull your back on that spartin 300 and it will haunt you forever. High speed easier to unwind when u get bound up. No auto feed :-( Easy to judge distance by number of cable sections. I'm sure there are more downfalls but if u can't clear drain with this machine jetter or dig up rite.


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## gear junkie

Is there any reason you don't want to pull a toilet and use your 300? Seeing your setup, you could get the dreel setup, make a shelf above the water container and store it there. Something I see out here is a 6" clay lateral but a 3" roof vent. No cable is gonna do a good job under those circumstances. Maybe a push for the jetter might be better?


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## sierra2000

gear junkie said:


> Is there any reason you don't want to pull a toilet and use your 300? Seeing your setup, you could get the dreel setup, make a shelf above the water container and store it there. Something I see out here is a 6" clay lateral but a 3" roof vent. No cable is gonna do a good job under those circumstances. Maybe a push for the jetter might be better?


I'm getting away from pulling toilets. It gets too messy in the house sometimes. I try to sell a cleanout and told myself I'm not going on roofs anymore, but sometimes they just don't want to have a cleanout installed so I'm going to reconsider going on the roof. I'm going to sell it as no warranty if I clear it from the roof. I could sell a jetter from the roof but that's priced close to installing a cleanout for me. I think I just want to have an arsenal for any situation and priced accordingly based on what machine I use and what location. My 300 has been good but lately it has been a little disappointing on a couple of root jobs so I'm looking for something stronger. Maybe I just need new blades, they're about three years old.


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

gear junkie said:


> Shoot N told me he'd sell it to me for 600. Make sure you get the same deal


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

sierra2000 said:


> How much for the 2001 if you sell it? PM me if you want.


Really haven't given much thought about it. I've just been mulling over the idea of using the funds to help purchase a camera however I probably wouldn't actually commit to selling until I had the difference (for the camera) in funds available so that way I don't put that money to something else if that makes sense. Just beware that f-u-c-k-e-r is heavy, everyone said there's a slight difference between the 300 and 2001...I picked up and manhandled a 300 with 100' of their .66 cable and was surprised at the lightness of it, I could move that thing around all day...the 2001 no so much, hell the drum alone with 160' of cable is a biotch. But if our needs paths cross, may camera needs, your big machine needs, you'll be first in line.


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## gear junkie

Shoot'N'Plumber said:


>


That's what you get for messing around when I'm trying to order lunch! haha


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

gear junkie said:


> That's what you get for messing around when I'm trying to order lunch! haha


No no! The  wasn't for the $600 I promised to sell it to you for, were good there, the  was for you failing to mention what you promised to do return to sweeten the deal :yes:but it is an open forum so I guess that can stay between you and I. BTW are we still on for this weekend?


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

gear junkie said:


> That's what you get for messing around when I'm trying to order lunch! haha





Shoot'N'Plumber said:


> No no! The  wasn't for the $600 I promised to sell it to you for, were good there, the  was for you failing to mention what you promised to do return to sweeten the deal :yes:but it is an open forum so I guess that can stay between you and I. BTW are we still on for this weekend?


OK! That just felt wired, even for me....I take my previous comment back. You hear that Plumbing Zone, Ben never promised he would  in exchange for a good price on my spartan 2001.:thumbsup: there I feel clean again


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## gear junkie

Thar crap you just posted is even funnier now that I heard your voice. Hilarious in country!


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

Hahahaha! What can I say I was blessed with the ability to make people laugh


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## gear junkie

sierra2000 said:


> I'm getting away from pulling toilets. It gets too messy in the house sometimes. I try to sell a cleanout and told myself I'm not going on roofs anymore, but sometimes they just don't want to have a cleanout installed so I'm going to reconsider going on the roof. I'm going to sell it as no warranty if I clear it from the roof. I could sell a jetter from the roof but that's *priced close to installing a cleanout for me*. I think I just want to have an arsenal for any situation and priced accordingly based on what machine I use and what location. My 300 has been good but lately it has been a little disappointing on a couple of root jobs so I'm looking for something stronger. Maybe I just need new blades, they're about three years old.


You know I'm the last guy to talk about prices but are you charging enough for installing cleanout?


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## 4Aces Plumbing

I guess I am the kind of idiot that one day deciedes he is going to get into drain cleaning and buys one of everything (used-smoking deal) he reads about on the forums, tears it down to the frame, checks everything out, rebuilds it, and decides the best situation for each machine. I bargain shop, and am patient. Haven't even run the 7500 or the K60 yet, just got them back together last night.


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## sierra2000

gear junkie said:


> You know I'm the last guy to talk about prices but are you charging enough for installing cleanout?


I'd say so. I charge a lot for jetting and even more to climb on the roof and do it, that puts me close to installing a cleanout.


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## Letterrip

One quick note for the k-60 users. We have 3" rooftop vents and I hit them all the time. The scale on 3" cast iron that hasn't been run for a while can get pretty thick. As said before, the k-60 is more of a finesse machine which relies on its high rpm. It will bind up and come to a screeching halt in heavy scale. I have overheated mine in the summer to the point that the motor goes into thermal overload. The old style machine simply reset when it had cooled off. The so has a red reset button that must be manually pushed to reset. It looks like the reset on the upper thermostat in an electric water heater. It's a pia when that happens, but I still love my k-60!!


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## TheDrainGuy

I respect you're opinion, but totally disagree.
I clean probably 90% of the drains I do with a snake. Using the proper size equipment, cable, and cutters, I've never had a problem removing roots from lines. Even totally infested lines. Obviously the worse ones can be a lot more time consuming requiring more passes etc..and of course here and there you have a collapsed one that you can't even clear, let alone get the roots out. That is the main reason I always snake a line first, it's much easier to find a broken pipe with a cable. A jet hose will bury itself in a separation before you even know it happened.
I really wasn't dissing the k60 either. It's a good little machine. I just think if you run sections to clean main lines I think 1 1/4" would be the proper size cable for the pipe. Now if you wanna jump up on the roof and snake it through the vent, punch a hole and say you're all set and get called back in 6 months then use a k60. I have a super vee, and the specs say cleans up to a 3" line, I have never attempted it and never will.

Jetting to me (and I think the majority of other companies in THIS area with the exception of RR) is a secondary means of cleaning RESIDENTIAL sewer lines. If I've snaked a line for a couple hours and know I've gone through the ENTIRE line and it won't pop, bad sludge line, belly, back pitched, or misaligned, I will bring in the jet. It's actually better for me because I can bill for both services. 
This is just the way I was trained many years ago. We used to snake almost everything. I still have 15' of conduit on my truck today used for snaking manhole to manhole or manhole back to house.


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## wyplumber

I will agree with everyone that the 1500 is heavy and takes a long time to set up but it can do whatever you ask it to do if you take the time to do it right. Every guy in our shop  and moans about taking the 1500 but almost when the get back they either tell you it is clear or it is in need or digging up. I never complain about the 1500 but have only have to lug it up onto one roof.


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## sierra2000

Wow! That sounds like a beast of a machine.


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## Doctor

Anyone like the GO 68 HD by Gorlitz?


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## Will

Doctor said:


> Anyone like the GO 68 HD by Gorlitz?


 What I use. I prefer it to a 1065 or K7500. I run 160' of 3/4" in my main reel and keep 130' in my second reel. Got a 25' section I can add if I need just alittle more cable and have a second 10' anchor cable if I need it. Been using it more and more now I'm driving a 14' step van instead if a cargo van. Very little working parts on it, it's very realiable and built well Only issues with it is it's heavy(250lbs+) but the reel comes off super easy with one set screw. And it's so powerful and you can plow through stoppages and not even know it.


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## TheDrainGuy

Haha.. Weighs almost as much as my cart jet. 
All good though, that machine IS a beast.
Don't own one, but have used lots of Gorlitz machines through the years. They make a solid product. I'm gonna get a GO 15 for tubs soon.
You like the 3/4" cable compared to 11/16"?
Do you use the pedal?


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## PlumbDumber

TheDrainGuy said:


> I respect you're opinion, but totally disagree.
> 
> I really wasn't dissing the k60 either. It's a good little machine. I just think if you run sections to clean main lines I think 1 1/4" would be the proper size cable for the pipe. Now if you wanna jump up on the roof and snake it through the vent, punch a hole and say you're all set and get called back in 6 months then use a k60. I have a super vee, and the specs say cleans up to a 3" line, I have never attempted it and never will.
> 
> Jetting to me (and I think the majority of other companies in THIS area with the exception of RR) is a secondary means of cleaning RESIDENTIAL sewer lines. If I've snaked a line for a couple hours and know I've gone through the ENTIRE line and it won't pop, bad sludge line, belly, back pitched, or misaligned, I will bring in the jet. It's actually better for me because I can bill for both services.
> .


Respectfully, I totally disagree with you assessment of the K-60. I feel that it is the best all around machine out there for residential work.. I have been using one since 1977 and we have *very few* callbacks. Every truck in my shop has one & it is our "Go To" machine of choice for all of us. We have drum snakes that we bring into restaurants for floor drains or use on other occasions and K-50s for drain arms or other smaller lines, but the K-60 is our main machine. I got rid of my Electric Eel many years ago as it was just in the way & never used.

If the K-60 won't handle the job, it is time for a jetter or time to dig up the line.

If you run the K-60 in reverse once you have gone through heavy sludge, the open wind cable will help push the sludge down the line to help clear it.

By using reverse with the open wind cable, many times I can "Steer" the cable down that occasional double wye rather than jumping across it & running up the other branch.

If you take one cable and put a slight kink in it at the leading end so that the spade head will run off center & scrape the sides of larger pipes, it can clean the walls of the 6" lines after you have pushed through the stoppage while running lots of water to wash what you are breaking up down the line.

The same kinked cable can be used as lead cable to quickly locate a pipe by sound as it goes Clank,clank,clank down the line so that you do not need to run back to the shop for the locater.

In our area, the K-60 is "King" and by far is the most widely used machine.


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## gear junkie

I like the K60 so much, I sold the 1065 because I kept tripping over it as it just sat there never getting used. 8 years laters, I've never thought, "I really wish I still had that 1065 and regret selling it".

As far as punching a hole...maybe with a drum cable but a sectional cable grabs. After grinding on a root mass for awhile, go back in with a reverse auger and it will often grab the whole thing. That's exactly what happened in that picture. 

Plus distance....can't do that with a drum. It's great to know how far you're in without a camera. Because your hand is on the cable, you can often feel the pipe irregularities. 

Here's another. Ever had a stoppage 4' away from the cleanout? Very shady with a drum cause the cable builds torque so fast. Sectional just lift the handle and all torque is gone.


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## PlumbDumber

gear junkie said:


> Plus distance....can't do that with a drum. It's great to know how far you're in without a camera. Because your hand is on the cable, you can often feel the pipe irregularities.
> 
> Here's another. Ever had a stoppage 4' away from the cleanout? Very shady with a drum cause the cable builds torque so fast. Sectional just lift the handle and all torque is gone.


 :thumbsup:

I love how the cable "talks to me ".

While this won't be much of an advantage to the OMS, we have been known to use a second K-60 in series with the first one on stoppages that we had to run 200'+ in 4 inch lines running across parking lots with heavy sludge when the clean-outs in the parking lot had been paved over. The first machine was starting to overheat from the heavy load but the 2 machines together quickly finished the job.


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## Will

TheDrainGuy said:


> Haha.. Weighs almost as much as my cart jet.
> All good though, that machine IS a beast.
> Don't own one, but have used lots of Gorlitz machines through the years. They make a solid product. I'm gonna get a GO 15 for tubs soon.
> You like the 3/4" cable compared to 11/16"?
> Do you use the pedal?




I like the 3/4", I tried the 11/16' and didn't like it as much.


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## Will

I can clear a line with a K60, even one with rrots, but I'll grab the GO68HD or Model C first if I know it's an older line with roots. If it's 6" I would use the k60 unless that was the only option i had at the time


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## gear junkie

PlumbDumber said:


> :thumbsup:
> 
> I love how the cable "talks to me ".
> 
> While this won't be much of an advantage to the OMS, we have been known to use a second K-60 in series with the first one on stoppages that we had to run 200'+ in 4 inch lines running across parking lots with heavy sludge when the clean-outs in the parking lot had been paved over. The first machine was starting to overheat from the heavy load but the 2 machines together quickly finished the job.


Can't remember where I saw it but I saw a piece of 3"pvc with 2 cutouts on the bottom. I asked why and was told the cutouts are for the handles so you can simultaneously press both handles at the same time.


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

As if I wasn't lovin mt k60 as it was... I'm lovin it even more now that I can take everything I need in one trip to the clean out with my carrier caddy I put together.


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## Will

Can you normally clear lines with one basket? Nice set up


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

Will said:


> Can you normally clear lines with one basket? Nice set up


Thanks Will! Yes, although I now keep 90' in the basket. If doing a kitchen line ill just switch the 7/8" basket for the 5/8" basket beforehand. Only once so far since using this setup have I needed more cable, but that's just one extra trip back to trailer, I still carry 150' of open wound, and 75' of general innercore.


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

The nice thing about this setup is I don't even need to remove the k60 from caddy. Just pull right up to clean out, and operate as it sits. the bucket holds my box of cutters n needed tools, canvas floor cover if needed, gloves and extension cord, then the bucket doubles as my seat. Here's a shot of it on a job with reference to the clean out.


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## Drain Pro

Shoot'N'Plumber said:


> The nice thing about this setup is I don't even need to remove the k60 from caddy. Just pull right up to clean out, and operate as it sits. the bucket holds my box of cutters n needed tools, canvas floor cover if needed, gloves and extension cord, then the bucket doubles as my seat. Here's a shot of it on a job with reference to the clean out.


Nice setup, but what's the difference between this or a drum machine as far as transporting is concerned?


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

Drain Pro said:


> Nice setup, but what's the difference between this or a drum machine as far as transporting is concerned?


Hmm! Lets see, my 2001 machine prolly weighs upwards of 300 lbs, even when broken down the drum alone is beotch to move. With a 2001 one does not just move it from the trailer and load it into the back of a pickup. 
The k60 caddy as you see it prolly is around 110lbs and can easily be tossed around. I never set out to make it comparible to drum unit. My service rig is a 14' v nose enclosed trailer that I pull with my long bed f250 so I can't just pull up in every driveway, hell I can't always park in front of he house, so when walking as much as 50 yards, I got tired of fumbling all the required equipment over multiple trips, so I put this together. It's my primary drain cleaning machine so I made if even easier.
I forgot to mention that last week I got a drain call for the hard rock hotel in Palm Springs (a good friend of mine is their service plumber but doesn't do drain work) I had to clear a 4" cast iron main about 40' in, but had to go down 4 flights of stairs into basement to access main. No way was I gonna drag the 2001 down there. 35 mins from pull up to cleared line, the manager was very impressed, he said "I was concerned we weren't going to get any equipment down here".


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## Drain Pro

Shoot'N'Plumber said:


> Hmm! Lets see, my 2001 machine prolly weighs upwards of 300 lbs, even when broken down the drum alone is beotch to move. With a 2001 one does not just move it from the trailer and load it into the back of a pickup. The k60 caddy as you see it prolly is around 110lbs and can easily be tossed around. I never set out to make it comparible to drum unit. My service rig is a 14' v nose enclosed trailer that I pull with my long bed f250 so I can't just pull up in every driveway, hell I can't always park in front of he house, so when walking as much as 50 yards, I got tired of fumbling all the required equipment over multiple trips, so I put this together. It's my primary drain cleaning machine so I made if even easier. I forgot to mention that last week I got a drain call for the hard rock hotel in Palm Springs (a good friend of mine is their service plumber but doesn't do drain work) I had to clear a 4" cast iron main about 40' in, but had to go down 4 flights of stairs into basement to access main. No way was I gonna drag the 2001 down there. 35 mins from pull up to cleared line, the manager was very impressed, he said "I was concerned we weren't going to get any equipment down here".


The 2001 is a bit of a beast. I get 95% of sewers done with my 300, but 4 flights is a pain in the ass no matter how you look at it. The 300 must be close to 200 lbs. so your setup is definitely lighter.


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## All Pro

Full of ****. 160 of 3/4 won't fit in a 7500. It's my main machine. 100 in the drum and 100 in a tire. I've tried 150 it isn't happening


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## Drain Pro

All Pro said:


> Full of ****. 160 of 3/4 won't fit in a 7500. It's my main machine. 100 in the drum and 100 in a tire. I've tried 150 it isn't happening


Who said you can put 160' into a 7500? I must of missed that. I also have 100' of 3/4" in my 7500. No way am I squeezing more in there. My 1065 would easily hold 125' but it was heavy as hell. You can squeeze 150' into a 1065, but that's really pushing it. I can't speak for the 2001; I've never used one.


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

All Pro said:


> Full of ****. 160 of 3/4 won't fit in a 7500. It's my main machine. 100 in the drum and 100 in a tire. I've tried 150 it isn't happening


? Wutchya talkin bout Willis! If your referring to wills comment about 160' of 3/4", he doesn't use the 7500, He's rockin the gorlitz 68hd which can carry 160' of 3/4".


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## All Pro

No the guy on the previous page said he kept 160 in the 7500.


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## Will

Not seeing where someone said the k7500 holds 160' of 3/4" cable, but my GO68HD dies it easy. Infact you could do 200' if you wanted


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## Drain Pro

Will said:


> Not seeing where someone said the k7500 holds 160' of 3/4" cable, but my GO68HD dies it easy. Infact you could do 200' if you wanted


200' has to weigh a ton. I wouldn't attempt to bring the machine down a flight of stairs without removing the basket first. Lol.


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## All Pro

The cable is all the weight. The frame help the load. And will said his face is the 7500 or Spartan whatever with 160" it ain't happening in the ridgid


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## Will

All Pro said:


> The cable is all the weight. The frame help the load. And will said his face is the 7500 or Spartan whatever with 160" it ain't happening in the ridgid


I've never said a K7500 could hold that, your misreading my post. I don't use a K7500, had one and didn't care for it


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## NORTHSTAR

What cutter are you k60 guys using? For roots. Do you make more than one pass usually? Im looking to buy a used k60. I currently run a k50 and root66. There is times when it seems the k60s extra 150 RPMs would help.


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## gear junkie

I use the spiral saw, 4 bladed cutter and the reverse auger the most. I go with the big cutter first usually and work the area good when possible. I wouldn't buy a k60 since you have the rt66. Give the dreel a try instead. Cause of the dreel I'm using my k60 less and less.


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## love2surf927

gear junkie said:


> I use the spiral saw, 4 bladed cutter and the reverse auger the most. I go with the big cutter first usually and work the area good when possible. I wouldn't buy a k60 since you have the rt66. Give the dreel a try instead. Cause of the dreel I'm using my k60 less and less.


What is the reverse auger?


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## gear junkie

It's a section of cable with the male end cut off. Run the machine in foward and it skip past offsets and bends. Put it in reverse and it self feeds into the blockage. The cable is way thicker then a standard auger head and running a sectional in reverse doesn't pose any problem.


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

How long should the reverse auger section be? And do you open the wind in the cable any to make if bigger?


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## gear junkie

Mine is about 18" long but it can be longer if you need. I didn't open the wind at all but I did take a mapp torch to the tip and straightened it out then quench it it used motor oil. Sharpened the tip and there you go. Check it out on the ridgid forum and search reverse auger or rick auger.


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## Coolcanuck

I've used k-1500 for the passed 9 years, wow, time passes. I just used a k-60 tonight for the first time, new machine for a shop. Was quite impressed, had to work in a crawl space (concrete floor *phew*). Would have pulled the toilet if I had to use a 1500. I didn't however like the cable guide hose, kept hitting and not entering the machine. Going to look a it tomorrow.


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## love2surf927

gear junkie said:


> It's a section of cable with the male end cut off. Run the machine in foward and it skip past offsets and bends. Put it in reverse and it self feeds into the blockage. The cable is way thicker then a standard auger head and running a sectional in reverse doesn't pose any problem.


Is it possible to run a leader or reverse auger in front of a cutter to help guide it?


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## gear junkie

It is possible with some finagling but really isn't needed. The cable is so flexible, it'll make turns very easily.....even through closet bends.


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## NORTHSTAR

Gear junkie. Do you only run 1 1/4" cable with the dreel or is it possible to run 7/8" innercore as well? Youve probably used the the rt66. How would you compare it to the k60. I ve had runs with roots that seemed impossible to clear with my rt66. Dont know if was the lower rpms or maybe I needed more innercore sections. I use one section of innercore as the front section.


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## Letterrip

gear junkie said:


> It's a section of cable with the male end cut off. Run the machine in foward and it skip past offsets and bends. Put it in reverse and it self feeds into the blockage. The cable is way thicker then a standard auger head and running a sectional in reverse doesn't pose any problem.


Respectfully GJ, I disagree that running the cable in reverse poses no problem. I have several extra "reverse augers". I would say that the easiest way to make a new one is to run the machine in reverse!! If you have already made a clean pass and are not going to bind up, then it's no problem. If you bind up however, you stand a greater chance of snapping a cable. It doesn't happen often, but its a sick feeling in your stomach when it does!! 

Now when you are just running that auger head, I see little chance of binding up so hard, so quickly that you break a cable. But with a blade type head running through scaled up cast iron, you won't find me running in reverse unless I'm stuck.


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## Will

NORTHSTAR said:


> Gear junkie. Do you only run 1 1/4" cable with the dreel or is it possible to run 7/8" innercore as well? Youve probably used the the rt66. How would you compare it to the k60. I ve had runs with roots that seemed impossible to clear with my rt66. Dont know if was the lower rpms or maybe I needed more innercore sections. I use one section of innercore as the front section.



Use the 1.25" only if your clearing a building sewer. If your clear a secondary line from a roof, the 7/8" will work, but your plating with fire. Stick with only the Electric Eel 1.25" or Generals version


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## All Pro

Will said:


> I've never said a K7500 could hold that, your misreading my post. I don't use a K7500, had one and didn't care for it


OK. I guess I misunderstood. But you do fit that in a drum? It's got the be heavy ass s hell on stairs. I keep 100" ic and it can be rough.


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## TheDrainGuy

It's sold with 150' of 11/16".
And you could probably fit another 20'-30' in the drum if you wanted. Yeah.. Heavy though,
3/4 HP, beastly, no problem spinning it.


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## Will

TheDrainGuy said:


> It's sold with 150' of 11/16". And you could probably fit another 20'-30' in the drum if you wanted. Yeah.. Heavy though, 3/4 HP, beastly, no problem spinning it.


I got 160' of 3/4" in my GO68HD. I could easily ad additional 40' to get it to 200' if I wanted, but then I don't know if I could move it....with 160 it's bearable and I'd rarely have to add more cable. The reel capacity with the Gorlitz is why prefer it to say a K7500 or Spartan 1065, 100-120' is just not enough most of the time. The 1065 can do 162' of .66 mag cable, but it is insanely expensive cable


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## 4Aces Plumbing

TheDrainGuy said:


> It's sold with 150' of 11/16".
> And you could probably fit another 20'-30' in the drum if you wanted. Yeah.. Heavy though,
> 3/4 HP, beastly, no problem spinning it.


Curious, what machine are you referring to?


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## gear junkie

Letterrip said:


> Respectfully GJ, I disagree that running the cable in reverse poses no problem. I have several extra "reverse augers". I would say that the easiest way to make a new one is to run the machine in reverse!! If you have already made a clean pass and are not going to bind up, then it's no problem. If you bind up however, you stand a greater chance of snapping a cable. It doesn't happen often, but its a sick feeling in your stomach when it does!!
> 
> Now when you are just running that auger head, I see little chance of binding up so hard, so quickly that you break a cable. But with a blade type head running through scaled up cast iron, you won't find me running in reverse unless I'm stuck.


Are you talking about a sectional machine? You want to run in forward(not reverse) when stuck....it'll self feed out the pipe. I hope I'm not jinxing myself (probably am.....frick....knock on wood) but I've never snapped a sectional cable. The k60 will go in the opposite direction when it's torqued too much. Actually the only time I ever got stuck was with the reverse auger that got caught in the city main.....got it free with with the jetter in about 10 minutes but had serious pucker factor going on. I leaned on the handle so much it switched rotation about 5 times before I came to my senses and got the jetter out....but no snapped cable. Here's the roots attached...just a solid mass I went into.


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## TheDrainGuy

4Aces Plumbing said:


> Curious, what machine are you referring to?


The GO68 HD by Gorlitz .


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## gear junkie

NORTHSTAR said:


> Gear junkie. Do you only run 1 1/4" cable with the dreel or is it possible to run 7/8" innercore as well? Youve probably used the the rt66. How would you compare it to the k60. I ve had runs with roots that seemed impossible to clear with my rt66. Dont know if was the lower rpms or maybe I needed more innercore sections. I use one section of innercore as the front section.


What Will said in regards to your cable size. Keep in mind the ridgid end style inner core is totally opposite of electric eel 7/8 J cable. I have the ridgid innercore and barely use it. Will has the J cable and would be the to help you with that cable.

The RT66 was alright...ended up selling it however. Kinda why I recommended the k60 over the rt66. However I think it'll do the job. What kind of cutter heads do you use....especially what kind of cutter heads were you using when it seemed like it you couldn't clear it? Something that was mentioned on the forums that is priceless to me cause I often forget....."if the cables not turning, then you're not cutting". Forgot who said it. I've gotten to the roots and put a little tension on the cable and just let it cut in that same spot for 5 minutes before. You gotta know hard to push. I just let the machine do the work. BTW....when the cable is under a lotta torque, I never place my thumb under the cable....I wrap it over. Same way as on bench press or steering wheel when offroad. If that cable goes, you don't want that thumb in the way.

As far as the innercore, I actually like the innercore out the pipe. Unproven but makes sense in my head that the cable loses power cause it's out the pipe, down a comby or wye and has more flex. Just my suggestion....unless you got a great deal(under 400)I wouldn't buy a k60. I'd get dreel setup and have that be your mainline machine.


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## SewerRatz

Asking which one will do the job K60 vs. K1500 is like asking will a 12 oz. ballpein hammer do the same job as a 3lb hammer.

Each one has their place. The K60 is good for doing 1 1/2" to 4" lines with ok amount of roots. Don't get me wrong the K-60 can do short runs in 6" pipe, just be careful that the cable doesn't turn around on itself.

The K1500 will do 3" to 10" lines with heavy roots. In the 8" and larger pipes one has to be careful not to have the cable turn around on itself.

Now if you want a machine that can preform like the K60 (spins 5/8 and 7/8 cable) as well as the K1500 (spins 1 1/4 cable) you want find the Rothenberger R750 with the 5/8 snap in chuck.


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## plbgbiz

SewerRatz said:


> Asking which one will do the job K60 vs. K1500 is like asking will a 12 oz. ballpein hammer do the same job as a 3lb hammer.
> 
> Each one has their place. The K60 is good for doing 1 1/2" to 4" lines with ok amount of roots. Don't get me wrong the K-60 can do short runs in 6" pipe, just be careful that the cable doesn't turn around on itself.
> 
> The K1500 will do 3" to 10" lines with heavy roots. In the 8" and larger pipes one has to be careful not to have the cable turn around on itself.
> 
> Now if you want a machine that can preform like the K60 (spins 5/8 and 7/8 cable) as well as the K1500 (spins 1 1/4 cable) you want find the Rothenberger R750 with the 5/8 snap in chuck.


We have turned 1-1/4" cable around in 6". Crap can happen no matter which machine you are on.


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## gear junkie

plbgbiz said:


> We have turned 1-1/4" cable around in 6". Crap can happen no matter which machine you are on.


was it a pipe or fitting? ridgid cable? How'd you get it out?


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## SewerRatz

plbgbiz said:


> We have turned 1-1/4" cable around in 6". Crap can happen no matter which machine you are on.


What kind of 1 1/4" cable? Was it Ridgid? If so was it the close wound cable or the heavy duty cable that has more spacing between windings? I can see the Standard close wound cable flipping around in the 6" pipe.


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## BOBBYTUCSON

Stupid question but...whats a dreel?


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## Shoot'N'Plumber

BOBBYTUCSON said:


> Stupid question but...whats a dreel?


There's no such thing as a stupid question Bobby! Wha were talkin when sayin dreel is taking 1-1/4" sectional cable from like general or electric eel and using an heavy duty right angle drill as the power source  I know huh!


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## Will

I flipped the 7/8" j cable with the model c in 4". Won't use it ever again unless it's in 2", even then I'll probably grab the K60. In fact j cable is kinda unless, because the Model C is too powerful for it. I'll only use 1.25" from here on out with the Model C. 7/8" Ridgid cable works well with the K60 because it is not even close to as powerful as a Model C. I don't have a K1500, but I'd be worried to use the 7/8" with it also. I'd use the 1.25", even in 3". I'd be realy scared to use 5/8" with the Rothy 750


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## BOBBYTUCSON

Shoot'N'Plumber said:


> There's no such thing as a stupid question Bobby! Wha were talkin when sayin dreel is taking 1-1/4" sectional cable from like general or electric eel and using an heavy duty right angle drill as the power source  I know huh!


Wtf ? How is that reliable? How would you get the cable in the chuck and how does it stay in the chuck with so much torque. Cahhrayzee!


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## gear junkie

Has a chuck adapter. Works super well. So good in fact that if dealing with an outside cleanout(common here) it'll be my first choice.


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## BOBBYTUCSON

gear junkie said:


> Has a chuck adapter. Works super well. So good in fact that if dealing with an outside cleanout(common here) it'll be my first choice.



So is it sectional cables?


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## Will

Here is the drill and eel


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## Hillside

I've got 200' of 3/4" in both my gorlitz machines, were out that much almost daily, average cleanout to street main is usually 100-170' here


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## Will

Hillside said:


> I've got 200' of 3/4" in both my gorlitz machines, were out that much almost daily, average cleanout to street main is usually 100-170' here


You using gotlitz wench and ramp or you got something else to get your go68hd off the truck? I take the reel off to get mine in, looking at getting the loading ramp and wench


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## Drain Pro

Do you guys using the Gorlitz deal with many basements?


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## Will

Drain Pro said:


> Do you guys using the Gorlitz deal with many basements?


Only homes in my area with basement are historic homes. Most have outside cleanouts, and if they don't I would not bring the Gorlitz into the basement. I'd use the K60 or Model C.


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## Hillside

Will said:


> You using gotlitz wench and ramp or you got something else to get your go68hd off the truck? I take the reel off to get mine in, looking at getting the loading ramp and wench


I have the gorlitz ramp on one of my vans and wouldn't have it any other way 

I have a crane setup on my harbor utility cutaway, I'd rather have the ramp but it would take up to much room near the back doors, I've been tinkering with the idea of cutting inside my passenger side utility door to make it come out the side like some of the new harbor body's do with the gorlitz ramp


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## BOBBYTUCSON

Will said:


> View attachment 30557
> 
> 
> Here is the drill and eel


Dam never seen that before!! Fergusons sell that chuck adapter ? And not a bad looking plumber niether ! That you will ?


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## Will

You have to order the part from Electric Eel or get it from someone who sticks it, maybe AJC.

I'll have to get one if those Gorlitz ramps, just got to figure a way to get it in my step van


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## gear junkie

BOBBYTUCSON said:


> Dam never seen that before!! Fergusons sell that chuck adapter ? *And not a bad looking plumber niether !* That you will ?


uh oh.....looks like someone has a secret valentine, hahahaha


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## NORTHSTAR

Will said:


> View attachment 30557
> 
> 
> Here is the drill and eel


That pic almost look as if the cable is 7/8"...?


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## love2surf927

For some reason I thought you set up the dreel on the ground? With the drill laying on its back?


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## BOBBYTUCSON

gear junkie said:


> uh oh.....looks like someone has a secret valentine, hahahaha


I'd hit it !!


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## BOBBYTUCSON

I was referring to the drill attachment...I'd try that out , how much at Ferguson's?


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## gear junkie

No idea...got mine from aj coleman. I think about 20 if memory serves me correct.....which is doubtful.


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## Will

NORTHSTAR said:


> That pic almost look as if the cable is 7/8"...?


Could be, that pic was probably 4 years ago, don't remember


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## BOBBYTUCSON

Talked to counter at fergies they said they never heard of it lol.gonna have to go online i suppose.


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## SewerRatz

BOBBYTUCSON said:


> Talked to counter at fergies they said they never heard of it lol.gonna have to go online i suppose.


Call 

Allan J. Coleman
5725 N Ravenswood Ave.
Chicago, IL 60660

Phone: 773-728-2400


Ask for Kirk or Marvin


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## BOBBYTUCSON

SewerRatz said:


> Call
> 
> Allan J. Coleman
> 5725 N Ravenswood Ave.
> Chicago, IL 60660
> 
> Phone: 773-728-2400
> 
> 
> Ask for Kirk or Marvin


I actually dig these guys.super helpful.glad you turned me onto them


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## NORTHSTAR

Yea. SewerRatz is who turned me onto aj coleman. Its great to call someone who truly knows what youre looking for and can save you some money. And get it shipped in a hurry. They have also answered questions ive had about certain products. They will definitely steer you in the right direction


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## BOBBYTUCSON

NORTHSTAR said:


> Yea. SewerRatz is who turned me onto aj coleman. Its great to call someone who truly knows what youre looking for and can save you some money. And get it shipped in a hurry. They have also answered questions ive had about certain products. They will definitely steer you in the right direction


Why dont they open more locations ? These dudes rock


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