# Another Moen Posi-Temp valve install.



## Protech

Here ya go.


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## Protech

mo piks


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## Protech

Now go ahead and make fun of my horrible solder joints :laughing:. I was talkin on the phone while I soldered. irate:


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## Redwood

Put Down the phone and solder then damn it...:laughing:


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## Optimus Primer

Protech said:


> Now go ahead and make fun of my horrible solder joints :laughing:. I was talkin on the phone while I soldered. irate:


It's ok. We know its because you're used to running pex. You're out of practice. :laughing:


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## futz

What a lovely pink tub! :laughing::laughing:


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## Bonafide

looks like nice cozy spot to work in...did u feel like a turtle?


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## Bonafide

how high is that shower head


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## ChrisConnor

Did you get a bruise on your side from laying on that bottom board?


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## Plumber Jim

That looks like a fun little spot to work in. at least you didn't have to solder that much in there.


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## Miguel

There's still pink bathrooms out there! OMG! 

Nice job, pro. But, gawd. I had a complete pink BR group for sale at a yard sale for $5 and I had to haul it away to the dump! :laughing:

Nice work but your solder joints get deducted from your cell airtime.


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## ToUtahNow

Mobile Home?


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## Protech

Good eye Mark.



ToUtahNow said:


> Mobile Home?


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## M5Plumb

Oh is that what it was...:no:



Protech said:


> Now go ahead and make fun of my horrible solder joints :laughing:. I was talkin on the phone while I soldered. irate:


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

I can do those 3 handle to single faucet applications with 0 access to the backside.

Either expanding a 3 hole scenario or when a single handle faucet breaks, working inside a 4-3/4" hole without a remodel plate.


Doesn't matter if it is copper or cpvc; I transition to copper and faucet becomes self-supported through the sturdy piping.


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## ToUtahNow

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> I can do those 3 handle to single faucet applications with 0 access to the backside.
> 
> Either expanding a 3 hole scenario or when a single handle faucet breaks, working inside a 4-3/4" hole without a remodel plate.
> 
> 
> Doesn't matter if it is copper or cpvc; I transition to copper and faucet becomes self-supported through the sturdy piping.


We have a ton of the old Mixit valves out here. When I would repipe a galvanize home with copper I would replace the valve through the valve hole without a smitty plate. 

Mark


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## plumr

what about just a valve replacement thru the front of wall with old galvanized pipe


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## Protech

In that scenario, you cut your smitty plate in a bit higher than where the 3-handle valve was. That gives you some room to put FIP adapters on the old galvo.

To clarify. You cut the siloute of the smitty plate so that the 2 outside holes of the old 3-handle valve are just barely hidden by the bottom of the smitty pan. I either cut and re-thread the riser or just move it over and make a loop of pipe (any type) to connect back on.



plumr said:


> what about just a valve replacement thru the front of wall with old galvanized pipe


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## Protech

Yeah, I do it the same way when I can sell the HO on a new valve which is most of the time.



ToUtahNow said:


> We have a ton of the old Mixit valves out here. When I would repipe a galvanize home with copper I would replace the valve through the valve hole without a smitty plate.
> 
> Mark


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## Protech

I assume you mean that you are strapping the new copper to something right? If the feed lines where cpvc or pex coming out of the floor and you transition to copper just in the valve area it's still going to be floppy. 

I usually strap the valve to backing (if present). If there is no backing I solder copper cross braces on the tub stubout and shower riser. When you tighten the screws for the escutcheon the valve clamps securely to the wall. After caulking/grouting the valve will be completely immobile no matter what type of supply piping is used. 



DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> I can do those 3 handle to single faucet applications with 0 access to the backside.
> 
> Either expanding a 3 hole scenario or when a single handle faucet breaks, working inside a 4-3/4" hole without a remodel plate.
> 
> 
> Doesn't matter if it is copper or cpvc; I transition to copper and faucet becomes self-supported through the sturdy piping.


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## plumr

thanks toutahnow. be plumbing over 35 years almost all new work until last two years.trying to learn all of the tricks of service @ repair. how do you connect to existing galv. shower riser since you've raised the valve up


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

Protech said:


> I assume you mean that you are strapping the new copper to something right? If the feed lines where cpvc or pex coming out of the floor and you transition to copper just in the valve area it's still going to be floppy.
> 
> I usually strap the valve to backing (if present). If there is no backing I solder copper cross braces on the tub stubout and shower riser. When you tighten the screws for the escutcheon the valve clamps securely to the wall. After caulking/grouting the valve will be completely immobile no matter what type of supply piping is used.


 
Caulk, wood blocking on the back side. If the next person decides to pull the trim plate off by accident, my bracing doesn't fall down into the wall cavity.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

plumr said:


> thanks toutahnow. be plumbing over 35 years almost all new work until last two years.trying to learn all of the tricks of service @ repair. how do you connect to existing galv. shower riser since you've raised the valve up


 
Find your uprights where they have threaded into a 90/coupling/tee. Jig up brass nipples and copper, DONE.


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## fhrace

What is that pipe running inside tub? Looks like its electrical conduit?


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## ToUtahNow

fhrace said:


> What is that pipe running inside tub? Looks like its electrical conduit?


Possibly a grab bar of some type.

Mark


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## Protech

See post #18



plumr said:


> thanks toutahnow. be plumbing over 35 years almost all new work until last two years.trying to learn all of the tricks of service @ repair. how do you connect to existing galv. shower riser since you've raised the valve up


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## fhrace

sorry to get off topic but how are the ryobi tools?


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## Asparta

Hey guys. What do you call that trim piece that goes around the valve to cover the 3 holes in the wall? I always replaced the units with similar 3 knob configuration. At least now, once you guys tell me what that piece is called, I have more options to offer customer!


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## Protech

A smitty pan


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## Protech

Slightly better than Dewalt which is not a compliment. They are dirt cheap considering they are lithium ion. Maybe 1/2 as good as Milwaukee v28 but 1/3 the price.

Not great tools, but they are a good value. The batteries like to over load when they get a little age to them. They have and onboard computer that shuts them down if to much current flows out. This is a safety feature to keep them from exploding. The problem is that it's so sensitive that when a paddle bit catches the battery cuts out before you can release the trigger (it only take a fraction of a second). Then you have to go reset the computer by putting the battery back on the charger for a few seconds. 

That's a real PITA when you just crawled all the way to the back of an attic to drill a hole and the battery overloads. :furious: I had it happen to me twice today during a repipe.

Like I said, not the best tool out there but it is the best tool for the price.
If you want the best there is, go Milwaukee v28. My last kit lasted me about 5 years which is the longest any battery kit has ever lasted me by far.



fhrace said:


> sorry to get off topic but how are the ryobi tools?


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## Protech

Here's another. The wall was like 2" thick. I had to use the Moen extention kit.


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## Protech

more


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## Kyle181

Protech said:


> Here's another. The wall was like 2" thick. I had to use the Moen extention kit.


do u prefer the threaded valves over sweat?


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## Protech

I carry all 4 variations of the positemp valve on my truck at all times. I use the connection that will be the best for each installation. I used threaded on that one due to the galvanized riser I had to deal with. 



Kyle181 said:


> do u prefer the threaded valves over sweat?


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## SPH

looks like you used channel locks on the pex adaptors... hack!!


haha just kidding, looks good.


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## Optimus Primer

should have sold them a new trip lever waste so it would match the new pretty chrome.


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