# Plumbing Tips



## Bill

Got me to thinking on another post.
Mine? when soldering keep a small spray bottle filled with water.


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## user4

Don't chew your fingernails.


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## Ron

Wash hands before you eat.


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## ncplumber

I'm crazy about lavatory drains, haaate callbacks! so I put dope (Rectorseal T+2) on the top of the rubber cone washer, putty between the bottom of the washer and the friction washer, putty under the trim piece in the basin, dope on the threads at the trim piece and the tailpiece threads, and dope the beveled surface on all connections of the trap - tightening the middle nut first then the tailpiece connection then the wallpiece connection all hand tight first then a final +/- 1/8 turn with the channellocks. 

Crazy, but I have almost zero leaks on drains. :blink:


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## Mike Jessome

Silicone anything you teflon, put a beed of silicon on waste and over flows silicone po plugs throw away that putty use silicone, just don't forget to wipe away the excess.


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## service guy

Mike Jessome said:


> Silicone anything you teflon, put a bid of silicon waste and over flows silicone po plugs throw away that putty use silicone, just don't forget to wipe away the excess.


Why? I have never done that, teflon doesn't need silicone?


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## Mike Jessome

service guy said:


> Why? I have never done that, teflon doesn't need silicone?


Not always, but it doesn't hurt I was showed to use it and I always will every plumber is different and has learned and has been showen different tricks


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## threaderman

I never use silicone [except where putty will discolor the finish]and I never have leaks,go figure.


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## A Good Plumber

Threaderman, Bring along a bucket and a mop tomorrow you might have jinxed yourself.:whistling2:


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## user4

I would not be using silicone for anything connected to potable water, some silicones can leach into the water system.


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## threaderman

A Good Plumber said:


> Threaderman, Bring along a bucket and a mop tomorrow you might have jinxed yourself.:whistling2:


 I've had leaks but can't remember when the last time was.Long,long time ago.I did dis-connect the sink area in a home today for a remodel and used 2 shark-bite caps on the copper stub-outs.I don't like using them,so you may be right.


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## service guy

Killertoiletspider said:


> I would not be using silicone for anything connected to potable water, some silicones can leach into the water system.


I never use it either. I use teflon tape and Megaloc™ on my threaded joints.


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## Ron

Only a few places I use it, 2nd floor tubs, shower drains, or any other drain that is not visible, I want a good seal there so it will last the life of the house, I don't trust a putty seal.


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## A Good Plumber

I've never used Shark-bite fittings. We do a lot of tool hook-ups in electronic plants and the cooling water piping, for connection to the tool, has "Fas-N-Tite" plastic fittings that work pretty well for low pressure systems like cooling water.

All those compression, push-loc or shark-bite fitting make me feel a little nervous. I'd prefer to solder, weld or screw on a fitting or cap, even if it's temporary.


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## service guy

Ron The Plumber said:


> Only a few places I use it, 2nd floor tubs, shower drains, or any other drain that is not visible, I want a good seal there so it will last the life of the house, I don't trust a putty seal.


I prefer putty for strainers and tub drains, etc.
I never had a problem with putty. Most leaks I have seen were from poor installation, wether they used silicone or putty. Both will leak if installed badly.


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## user4

service guy said:


> I prefer putty for strainers and tub drains, etc.
> I never had a problem with putty. Most leaks I have seen were from poor installation, wether they used silicone or putty. Both will leak if installed badly.


We are trying to get Hercules to make their stainless putty that is safe for use on marble in five pound containers so that we can eliminate stocking wax rings.


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## service guy

A Good Plumber said:


> I've never used Shark-bite fittings. We do a lot of tool hook-ups in electronic plants and the cooling water piping, for connection to the tool, has "Fas-N-Tite" plastic fittings that work pretty well for low pressure systems like cooling water.
> 
> All those compression, push-loc or shark-bite fitting make me feel a little nervous. I'd prefer to solder, weld or screw on a fitting or cap, even if it's temporary.


I went through a short phase where I was using them to save time. But they always made me nervous. I finally decided not to use them any more. I'd rather take my time and sleep well at night.


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## service guy

Killertoiletspider said:


> We are trying to get Hercules to make their stainless putty that is safe for use on marble in five pound containers so that we can eliminate stocking wax rings.


That would be great. The biggest downside to putty is the staining. I'll never forget when some moron GC used putty on all the faucets on marble countertops for a spec house he was building....all through the house, every countertop was stained horribly. He called me out there to fix it, I told him it was too late! He was a real jackass.:laughing:


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## Plumbus

threaderman said:


> I never use silicone [except where putty will discolor the finish]and I never have leaks,go figure.


Here's a new putty that doesn't stain trim or sensitive surfaces.


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## service guy

Thanks plumbus, I am ordering some!


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## user4

service guy said:


> Thanks plumbus, I am ordering some!


They only sell it in one pound cans.


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## Ron

Bump as requested by USP45


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## Bill

Therte it is! Thanks Ron

I had a GD leak after several attempts to install it. Found a slimy film on it and washed it off, stoped the leaking.


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## nhmaster3015

You can stick a glacier bay pedistal sink to the wall with PL400:thumbsup:


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## Plumberman

PVC primer cleans anything....:laughing:


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## ILPlumber

PVC primer also removes that pesky printing on fancy wallpaper. That was one expensive little dribble.


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## Plumberman

ILPlumber said:


> PVC primer also removes that pesky printing on fancy wallpaper. That was one expensive little dribble.


:laughing: I imagine


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## LIVMECM

*silicoen*

every one does it differeny. i never use silicons on traps. i only use pipe dope. i agree you may have hexed your self


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## jeffc

On fiberglass shower enclosures I have found that plumbers putty will eventully crack and flush out causing leaks around the drain. I will replace the drain and seal with clear silicon. no leaks


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## Marlin

Most fiberglass tubs call for silicon on the drains. I can see it being a real PITA trying to change a trip lever with the drain glued to the tub. I haven't had to change one which has been glued on yet but I'm sure I'll find out eventually.


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## Proud Plumber

Metal marks in porcelain (black marks)-

A good quality polishing compound and some elbow grease will get them to go away.

A perfect silicone caulk joint- 

Before caulking, run some masking tape on either side of the area to be caulked, leave roughly an 1/16" to 1/8" reveal. Run your bead smear it in real good, peel the tape and it is perfect. Sometimes after peeling you wet your finger and lightly run it over the top and it will perfect it, remeber lightly. Very time consuming, but on certain fixtures it really makes it look nice at trim time.


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## Bill

I chiped a fiberglass shower the other day when I nailed it in. Got some repair kit for it and tried it out. This stuff works great! Saves money buying a new shower stall!


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## Herk

Hercules plumber's hand towels will take pencil marks off of formica, "permanent" marker off of plastic containers, pipe dope off of tools, dirty marks off of PVC, and they'll even clean your hands. They're non-toxic, contain no petro chemicals, smell like citrus. Scott Hand Wipes are very similar, but a stiffer fabric.


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## Kyle

and i am glad they make whisky bottles out of glass just incase ? uhmm tricks. 
after applying t tape.. run the roll edge into the threads... makes for much cleaner finish less tape pushing out an staying where it belongs in the threads


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## TradeQualified

Always have a helper with you in case things go wrong you can blame it on him. :thumbup:


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## kellybhutchings

how do you clean excess silicone. I am talking about silicone not tub and tile caulk.


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## user4

kellybhutchings said:


> how do you clean excess silicone. I am talking about silicone not tub and tile caulk.


Windex.


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## Herk

KellyBhutchings said:


> how do you clean excess silicone. I am talking about silicone not tub and tile caulk.


I usually squirt in what I want, use a nitrile-gloved finger to run the bead, have a Scott's wipe in the other hand and keep wiping the excess off my glove. I use the wipes with friction to remove smears.


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## Proud Plumber

kellybhutchings said:


> how do you clean excess silicone. I am talking about silicone not tub and tile caulk.


De-Natured alcohol


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## Ron

Run strips of tape along your seem, then pull the tape when you have your desired look.


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## Protech

Water heater draining tips. These only work if it's at or above ground level. They work well for me because there are virtually no basements in Fla.

If you have a heater that wont drain, fish 1/2 pex down the cold port and pull a siphon. If you need to run long distance to a drainage point, couple your 20' pex together with shark bites. If it's a big tank you can remove the t/p and pull a second siphon from the hot port. If it's a huge tank and your just waiting around(new tank is already prefabbed and in position for swap) you can remove the upper element and pull another siphon using 3/4 pex.

If you have a shop vac and don't mind building a cheap rig:

materials: 3x 1 1/4 galvo nipples, 1 1/4 union, 1 1/4 threaded ball valve, 50-100' of thick plastic pipe sleeve or fire hose. 

Install 2 nipples on the valve with a union on one with another nipple one the other end of the union. Hose clamp your sleeve/hose onto the union end.

If you need to drain a huge tank in a hurry, pull the lower element from the hydro locked heater with shop vac on and in hand(assuming the heater hasn't already flooded the place or there is no heater pan w/ working drain) to catch the little bit of water and thread your valve on(in the off position). Attach your hose via the union and let'er rip. Drains way faster than a heater pump and never needs impeller replacements or electricity(not so good at draining up hill though:stuart:).

If you have a heater in an attic or on a stand and don't have a helper to get it down: pull one or both elements and cut horizontally until you've cut it in halve. You'll need a good sawzall and a quality course metal blade. Take it down in pieces.


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## para1

ncplumber said:


> I'm crazy about lavatory drains, haaate callbacks! so I put dope (Rectorseal T+2) on the top of the rubber cone washer, putty between the bottom of the washer and the friction washer, putty under the trim piece in the basin, dope on the threads at the trim piece and the tailpiece threads, and dope the beveled surface on all connections of the trap - tightening the middle nut first then the tailpiece connection then the wallpiece connection all hand tight first then a final +/- 1/8 turn with the channellocks.
> 
> Crazy, but I have almost zero leaks on drains. :blink:


*All that effort and you still can't get it right everytime!:jester::laughing: Just kiddin bro.*


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## ROTOR KING

Personally when ever i see silicone around a joint gives me the sighn of a plumber admitting defeat to a crap product.


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## pzmember

TIP FOR DEALING W/ A CUSTOMER THAT WONT PAY.
1. WAIT UNTIL MIDNIGHT.
2. LOCATE CUSTOMERS CURBSTOP.
3. REMOVE LID.
4. INSERT WATER KEY.
5. SHUT OFF CURB STOP.
6. ADD 1 GALLON BUCKET DRY CONCRETE MIX.
7. ADD 1 GALLON BUCKET OF WATER.
8. REPLACE LID AND YOUR DONE.:thumbsup::laughing:


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## Redwood

mjcoleman said:


> TIP FOR DEALING W/ A CUSTOMER THAT WONT PAY.
> 1. WAIT UNTIL MIDNIGHT.
> 2. LOCATE CUSTOMERS CURBSTOP.
> 3. REMOVE LID.
> 4. INSERT WATER KEY.
> 5. SHUT OFF CURB STOP.
> 6. ADD 1 GALLON BUCKET DRY CONCRETE MIX.
> 7. ADD 1 GALLON BUCKET OF WATER.
> 8. REPLACE LID AND YOUR DONE.:thumbsup::laughing:


That's a good one but I'd just fire up "The Beast" drive on over in the dead of night, hook a tow strap on the outside hose bibb, drop the beast into 4 wheel low, and take back my materials...


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## Proud Plumber

mjcoleman said:


> TIP FOR DEALING W/ A CUSTOMER THAT WONT PAY.
> 1. WAIT UNTIL MIDNIGHT.
> 2. LOCATE CUSTOMERS CURBSTOP.
> 3. REMOVE LID.
> 4. INSERT WATER KEY.
> 5. SHUT OFF CURB STOP.
> 6. ADD 1 GALLON BUCKET DRY CONCRETE MIX.
> 7. ADD 1 GALLON BUCKET OF WATER.
> 8. REPLACE LID AND YOUR DONE.:thumbsup::laughing:


hydraulic cement is better for this application. it dries with in minutes, hardens under water also. I am told that hydraulic cement works well for urinal repairs. Particularly with bar owners that do not like to pay the plumber. :whistling2:


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## Protech

Sewer call customer training kit:

1 - 5 gallon bucket
1 - 1 gallon bucket
1 gallon of part “a” marine foam
1 gallon of part "b" marine foam
Funnel (optional)

step 1.
After failing to receive payment for cabling/jetting services retrieve kit 
from truck and mix "a" and "b" thoroughly in 5 gallon bucket. 

step 2.
Dispense in appropriate location(s). Replace cleanout caps and traps if applicable.

step 3.
After returning home, open beer of choice and consume. Log onto PZ and share with experience with friends.
:thumbsup:


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

Proud Plumber said:


> hydraulic cement is better for this application. it dries with in minutes, hardens under water also. I am told that hydraulic cement works well for urinal repairs. Particularly with bar owners that do not like to pay the plumber. :whistling2:


 

That's an awesome idea and I know just exactly where I'm needed for this urinal repair right now.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

Here's one I did just tonight:



Drilled in two hose bibbs and when I went to drill the holes in the brick/mortar on this 100 year old historic home, it all went to powder when I drilled.


So...knowing even those adaptor kits to go wider to hit something solid wouldn't even work, 

I went inside the house where I drilled through the band joist to get these in (18" hose bibbs) and drove copper wedges in to lock the bibbs in place, 


then took a piece of 3/4" copper and hammered flat spots where it would lay on top of the copper tubes of the hose bibbs, sandclothed the tops where the flat piece of copper would lay, fluxed them up and soldered that pipe on top of the two hose bibbs, right against the band joist.


Between driving those copper wedges into those close tolerance holes along with that copper tube running across both of them, against the wood, nothing is going to let those bibbs pull out at this point.

There are other options I could of taken doing a board on the outside or large piece of aluminum plate, but the way I've done this from inside? 

No signs on the outside that there was ever a problem.

The customer was very impressed with my idea and how it fixed the problem instantly with no chance of breaking free. I trust my solder joints completely.

I just told him to NEVER leave a hose hooked to these in the winter, it'll cost him big time. :yes:


I made fun of the plumbing in his house before I left, shouldn't do that before I get paid. :laughing:


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## Redwood

Proud Plumber said:


> hydraulic cement is better for this application. it dries with in minutes, hardens under water also. I am told that hydraulic cement works well for urinal repairs. Particularly with bar owners that do not like to pay the plumber. :whistling2:


It also works well in toilets at the Ravimart where you got stiffed for a toilet auger job...

Go in after a heavy lunch at Aunt Chiladas...

Pour in the hydraulic cement then put a good power dump on top of it...
Take your time, hardens in 15 minutes...
Leave without flushing. Pressure assist with the siphon jet blocked...

Musta been Purdy!:whistling2:

I can't say how I know this...


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## PipemanNYC

I use megalock on just about every thread.. I use a spray bottle on every joint i solder. I always spent the extra 10 min to put everything back where it belongs in my truck after a job. Every No Hub clamp is made up in the same direction, The words on all my PVC runs all line up and in the same directions. No drips No grape vines... OCD is a good thing in our trade ..


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## Marlin

ncplumber said:


> I'm crazy about lavatory drains, haaate callbacks! so I put dope (Rectorseal T+2) on the top of the rubber cone washer, putty between the bottom of the washer and the friction washer, putty under the trim piece in the basin, dope on the threads at the trim piece and the tailpiece threads, and dope the beveled surface on all connections of the trap - tightening the middle nut first then the tailpiece connection then the wallpiece connection all hand tight first then a final +/- 1/8 turn with the channellocks.
> 
> Crazy, but I have almost zero leaks on drains. :blink:


I throw everything together with mega lock on the washers and threads. I prefer the plastic washers to the rubber ones they give you now but the rubbers do work. When I'm done I run the hot water to get the rubber/plastic soft and give it another shot with the channels. 

I then test it. I fill up the sink and let it drain with the water running and check for leaks. The idea to that the waste pipe is running at the most it ever will at that point and any leaks will present themselves. 

We have guys working for us that leave everything hand tight or just a little beyond. If they test it at all they run the water for a second, don't see a leak and leave. Almost every one of those sinks leaks with the test I use. Most customers never notice it but their is an occasional callback. I've done a couple hundred sinks and not one yet.


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## Marlin

mjcoleman said:


> TIP FOR DEALING W/ A CUSTOMER THAT WONT PAY.
> 1. WAIT UNTIL MIDNIGHT.
> 2. LOCATE CUSTOMERS CURBSTOP.
> 3. REMOVE LID.
> 4. INSERT WATER KEY.
> 5. SHUT OFF CURB STOP.
> 6. ADD 1 GALLON BUCKET DRY CONCRETE MIX.
> 7. ADD 1 GALLON BUCKET OF WATER.
> 8. REPLACE LID AND YOUR DONE.:thumbsup::laughing:


A better one for those with meters inside. 
1. WAIT UNTIL MIDNIGHT.
2. LOCATE CUSTOMERS CURBSTOP.
3. REMOVE LID.
4. FILL CURB BOX WITH LIQUID NAILS.
5. GO HOME AND GET A GOOD NIGHTS SLEEP
6. WAIT UNTIL MIDNIGHT THE FOLLOWING DAY
7. CUT SERVICE IN BASEMENT BEFORE MAIN SHUTOFF VALVE.


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## pzmember

Ron The Plumber said:


> Wash hands before you eat.


 thats just good advice for any vocation.


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## 422 plumber

Plumber's grease on all flushometer threads.


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## pzmember

Marlin said:


> I throw everything together with mega lock on the washers and threads. I prefer the plastic washers to the rubber ones they give you now but the rubbers do work. When I'm done I run the hot water to get the rubber/plastic soft and give it another shot with the channels.
> 
> I then test it. I fill up the sink and let it drain with the water running and check for leaks. The idea to that the waste pipe is running at the most it ever will at that point and any leaks will present themselves.
> 
> We have guys working for us that leave everything hand tight or just a little beyond. If they test it at all they run the water for a second, don't see a leak and leave. Almost every one of those sinks leaks with the test I use. Most customers never notice it but their is an occasional callback. I've done a couple hundred sinks and not one yet.


 i do pretty much the same thing, ive found three fill & dumps work great. 1 w/ hot, 1 w/ cold, 1 w/ tempered. really lets the tubular work the expansion and contraction and shows any leaks if any.


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## richfield

Marlin said:


> We have guys working for us that leave everything hand tight or just a little beyond. If they test it at all they run the water for a second, don't see a leak and leave. Almost every one of those sinks leaks with the test I use. Most customers never notice it but their is an occasional callback. I've done a couple hundred sinks and not one yet.


Wow. we must have the same people working with us. I use pipe dope on all my threads but some of my guys only do it hand tight and no lubricant and do a quick test and think everything is fine. One guy thought people were trying to sabotage him because it wouldn't leak at first and finally it would. He would show me his marking that he took time to draw on the unions to catch this person and how it changed position. He couldn't understand that over time a hand tight joint would loosen and leak. Eventually he accused ME of sabotaging him  because I was going around checking joints like I do with all my workers. you'd be amazed at how many unglued joints people do during rough-in's, thats why I usually don't dry fit. but I guess thats why we should static test but nobody in our area does that.


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## super plumber

at the last company i worked for, i couldn't get anyone to come out and check my work.


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## brain freeze

i apply a anti-seize coating on pump flange studs and bolts.

it will help the next guy when work needs to be done.

never know, that next guy could be me.

Vince

there's always one that gives you trouble


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## Marlin

richfield said:


> you'd be amazed at how many unglued joints people do during rough-in's, thats why I usually don't dry fit. but I guess thats why we should static test but nobody in our area does that.


That's why a lot of areas require purple primer. We have to fill our DWV systems until water is coming out of the roof penetration so any unglued joints are found pretty quickly. We did have to make one guy put an x on each joint he made after he glued it because he was having so many problems.


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## Redwood

richfield said:


> you'd be amazed at how many unglued joints people do during rough-in's, thats why I usually don't dry fit. but I guess thats why we should static test but nobody in our area does that.


With my work if a fitting is on the pipe it has been primed and glued...
With the pipe not fitting all the way into the socket there is no accuracy in dry fitting so why do it at all.


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## muck

Redwood said:


> With my work if a fitting is on the pipe it has been primed and glued...
> With the pipe not fitting all the way into the socket there is no accuracy in dry fitting so why do it at all.


 i agree 100% it would be a waste of time dry fitting everything.


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## Protech

Dry fitting is a sure sign that one is a noob.


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## Protech

Here's a good one:

When trying to remove those old kitchen sink basket strainers with the giant pot metal locknut on them try using a torch to melt the lock nut. When the nut melts use a straight slot screw driver to pry the locknut open. It should fall right off if done correctly. Put a wet rag on the sink to guard against burning the sink. It works well on stainless steel and quarts composite sinks. Be careful on cast iron sinks as you could cause the porcelain to chip off from over heating.

This technique only works with pot metal lock nuts. If it's brass or SS your going to have to use a grinder or dremel as usual.

see pics.


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## Ron

Protech said:


> When trying to remove those old kitchen sink basket strainers with the giant pot metal locknut on them try using a torch to melt the lock nut. When the nut melts use a straight slot screw driver to pry the locknut open. It should fall right off if done correctly. Put a wet rag on the sink to guard against burning the sink. It works well on stainless steel and quarts composite sinks. Be careful on cast iron sinks as you could cause the porcelain to chip off from over heating.
> 
> This technique only works with pot metal lock nuts. If it's brass or SS your going to have to use a grinder or dremel as usual.
> 
> see pics.


How much time does it take before it starts to melt? Do you protect the bottom of the cabinet, what about hand and eye protection, is it needed?

I will normally drill them off myself.


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## richfield

Marlin said:


> That's why a lot of areas require purple primer. We have to fill our DWV systems until water is coming out of the roof penetration so any unglued joints are found pretty quickly. We did have to make one guy put an x on each joint he made after he glued it because he was having so many problems.


We don't use much pvc here, mostly abs. we have that bright yellow abs glue in canada and thats our form of purple primer but some people can't see bright yellow(actually on my joints, you can't because I wipe them). I would love to be able to test all dwv with water. but unfortunately half the year we are in freezing temperatures. I could use air put then again I would have to climb on the roof to put caps on with 3' of snow. we really should but nobody does it here... and I know thats a horrible excuse but.... I'll think of changing that. I should also mandate that "x" idea you have with some of my guys. I used to use a check mark on crimp joints for apprentices, now I just don't let them use crimp joints unless it's fully accessible.


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## Protech

If you have a mapp torch, about 5 seconds. Yes on cabinet protection. I usually don't wear glasses or gloves but that's because I've done it a million times and I'm dumb.



Ron The Plumber said:


> How much time does it take before it starts to melt? Do you protect the bottom of the cabinet, what about hand and eye protection, is it needed?
> 
> I will normally drill them off myself.


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## Protech

Another good torch tip:

Ever dig up a cast cleanout and can't unthread the bras plug? Pull out the oxy/acetylene and get her glowing red then give the iron threads a tap while keeping it hot. While still hot unthread with channel locks/ pipe wrench. I did this one today. I didn't have any 4" expansion plugs. I usually just cut the brass out with a hole saw and sawzall, but since I didn't have an expansion plug I did it the hard way.


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## user4

Protech said:


> Another good torch tip:
> 
> Ever dig up a cast cleanout and can't unthread the bras plug? Pull out the oxy/acetylene and get her glowing red then give the iron threads a tap while keeping it hot. While still hot unthread with channel locks/ pipe wrench. I did this one today. I didn't have any 4" expansion plugs. I usually just cut the brass out with a hole saw and sawzall, but since I didn't have an expansion plug I did it the hard way.


You can pop those out with a hammer and a cape chisel in less than five minutes.


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## Protech

and reuse them afterwards? How?



Killertoiletspider said:


> You can pop those out with a hammer and a cape chisel in less than five minutes.


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## service guy

Killertoiletspider said:


> You can pop those out with a hammer and a cape chisel in less than five minutes.


I got you both beat! I use a sawzall,:tank: and it takes about two minutes tops. I did two the other day at a commercial kitchen. Both had frozen pot-metal nuts. Both saw the wrath of the sawzall and were replaced lickity-split.

_Edit: Oops, nevermind, I thought we were still talking about basket strainers...my bad._:blush:


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## Protech

How would you do that in a small kitchen cabent in a residential setting?


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## service guy

Protech said:


> How would you do that in a small kitchen cabent in a residential setting?


Its never been a problem. All you have to do is cut the nut at the front, and then snap it off with a screwdriver. Its really not hard. I start by cutting a slot through the center of the strainer, then I cut the nut from the inside-out, carefully avoiding the sink itself of course!


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## user4

service guy said:


> Its never been a problem. All you have to do is cut the nut at the front, and then snap it off with a screwdriver. Its really not hard. I start by cutting a slot through the center of the strainer, then I cut the nut from the inside-out, carefully avoiding the sink itself of course!


Yep.

I've used that same procedure in 21" sink cabinets in office buildings, works just fine. If You make a cut on either side the nut falls off on it's own most of the time.


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## service guy

Killertoiletspider said:


> Yep.
> 
> I've used that same procedure in 21" sink cabinets in office buildings, works just fine. If You make a cut on either side the nut falls off on it's own most of the time.


:thumbsup: The first time I tried it, back when I was an apprentice, I ended up knicking the sink....DOH!:blush:


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## Protech

Ok, I was thinking you would cut the ring from the outside. I done that with brass strainers but I don't think it's any faster. Try the torch thing some time, you would be surprised how quick those pot metal rings melt and fall off.


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## service guy

Protech said:


> Ok, I was thinking you would cut the ring from the outside. I done that with brass strainers but I don't think it's any faster. Try the torch thing some time, you would be surprised how quick those pot metal rings melt and fall off.


I never tried it, I think I will stick to my saw-zall trick, simply to avoid a fire-hazard. But I will give it a shot, just to see it melt would be cool. Its something I never even thought of!


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## Protech

It's so quick I don't even attempt to unscew the nut most of time even if it looks good because the torch is usually in my tray.


----------



## Redwood

I have this screwdriver that resembles a crowbar...:laughing:
I slip it under the nut between the nut and the rubber washer and give it a twist. The zinc nut breaks and flies off in less than 5 seconds.:thumbup:

If it's brass or, steel I hit it with the dremel cut off wheel in 2 places.


----------



## Protech

I'll have to try that pry off method.


----------



## PipemanNYC

I have heard of a special tool that breaks them off.. and basin nuts also .. i havnt ever seen it but some guys say its out there,, anyone heard of this?


----------



## PipemanNYC

.......................


----------



## Ron

Get and keep a 10-24NC tap, and get different lengths of 10-24 screws, next time you need screw for a faucet handle or stem washer, cause the one it had broke or is missing, and not sure the right size and thread, run a new tap and choose the screw lengths.


----------



## Protech

That's not a bad idea right there:thumbsup:


----------



## M5Plumb

Add a little rector seal to the ring assembly on the compression angle stops, it gives you a little added torque, seals up nicely and away you go with no galling.


----------



## M5Plumb

Water Heaters; If I am in a basement and have a W/H needing drained, I'll hook up my regulated air compressor to the pulled T&P and run it at around two to four pounds, works great to get the thing empty to tote off.


----------



## ILPlumber

I will.

I thought I wasn't going to learn something today:whistling2:


----------



## Bill

Messed up, sorry.


----------



## Airgap

Simple, but effective. If you've got a lot of DWV to do, take some duct tape, and glue you're quart cans of primer and glue together. It's surprisingly handy.


----------



## ILPlumber

airgap said:


> Simple, but effective. If you've got a lot of DWV to do, take some duct tape, and glue you're quart cans of primer and glue together. It's surprisingly handy.


That's exactly what I do. It's a lot harder to spill 2 cans taped together.


----------



## Airgap

ILPlumber said:


> That's exactly what I do. It's a lot harder to spill 2 cans taped together.


 exactly, and when you need one you're definately going to need the other.


----------



## Wethead

ILPlumber said:


> That's exactly what I do. It's a lot harder to spill 2 cans taped together.


hehe, I used to do the same >)


----------



## ILPlumber

I had a journeyman that "tinted" his cement with purple primer so he didn't have to prime then cement. He lasted about a millisecond after I asked him what the fawk he was doing.:no:


----------



## Wethead

I have actually seen guys mix glue and primer and then use it, I couldnt argue back then as I was only 19 and then were 50 >


----------



## Airgap

I guess they started doing cartwheels when rainRshine came out. No need to waste time mixing.:clap:


----------



## Proud Plumber

I have seen many plumbers put Plastic in the ground without primer or cleaner. I can only say although they did not have a lot of problems it is wrong. Primer wouldn't exist if it wasn't a crucial part of the solvent weld process. 

As a side note- the first guy I see on a trim with purple primer under a cabinet is getting an unmerciful tongue lashing. Purple on rough and clear on trim.


----------



## Wethead

Proud Plumber said:


> As a side note- the first guy I see on a trim with purple primer under a cabinet is getting an unmerciful tongue lashing. Purple on rough and clear on trim.


Yea, see here in NY, we don't have to use Purple .

But when I lived in NC, we did, and one time on a rough this dude split a can of purple primer on the sub floor and then after they layed the flooring it bleed through. 

That purple stuff can be nasty if your not careful


----------



## BatonPlumbing

Always keep your mouth shut when rodding a sewer line or weed eating your dog lot!!


----------



## Airgap

BatonPlumbing said:


> Always keep your mouth shut when rodding a sewer line or weed eating your dog lot!!


 I have been on the receiving end of both of these. I used to have a pair of Great Danes too. Great advice.


----------



## 422 plumber

Then stick a pony clamp into one of the holes on the top shelf of your ladder and set your glue/primer set-up over one of the handles. then it never falls off your ladder.


----------



## retired rooter

Apt owner refused to pay someone opened co under bldg somehow drove a croker ( burlap) sack in cleanout then poured in the fast setting cement reapplied cap. I cant imagine the mess someone had when they cut out the section of pipe to get to the clog


----------



## Sewerologist

A softball fits pretty good in a nonpaying customer's sewer. Too bad for the poor sap that didn't read the signs right off the bat of the prick they were about to work for......experience is everything, lol.... water really swells a softball. They should make test balls that way, lol....

Shame on me, I'm going straight to hell, lol....


----------



## DUNBAR PLUMBING

airgap said:


> I have been on the receiving end of both of these. I used to have a pair of Great Danes too. Great advice.


 


I've always been of the thinking that anything that ****'s bigger than me, I don't need to own. 


I don't recall letting go on my living room floor, nor should my dog and then me be jealous of the gift.


----------



## Airgap

Roast Duck said:


> I've always been of the thinking that anything that ****'s bigger than me, I don't need to own.
> 
> 
> I don't recall letting go on my living room floor, nor should my dog and then me be jealous of the gift.


 I guess you'll never be a farmer:thumbsup:. My wife craps bigger than me, I guess i'll put her on craigslist.:thumbup:


----------



## arkyplumber

I am with you on the silicone. I gave up putty along time ago, use it when it is just a must. Always on the drain side of things. What would you use it on the potable water? Always use pipe dope or teflon, and most cases use both.


----------



## Ron

Some might know how this is done but for you that don't, to replace a fluidmaster fillvalve quickly in 10 sec, here is a tip, below the float cup is a plastic ring, pull it upward, now the entire assembly will pull straight off, now do the same with the new one, push it on the shank, and reset the plastic ring, tank water level adjustment can be accomplished the same way, there you have it, you don't even have to take all the water out of the tank, just shut the water off.


----------



## Protech

Won't you get more call backs from the fillvalve gasket leaking because it wasn't replaced? I say if your going to replace the valve, do the whole job.(unless it's a PITA customer who is trying to negotiate you down)



Ron The Plumber said:


> Some might know how this is done but for you that don't, to replace a fluidmaster fillvalve quickly in 10 sec, here is a tip, below the float cup is a plastic ring, pull it upward, now the entire assembly will pull straight off, now do the same with the new one, push it on the shank, and reset the plastic ring, tank water level adjustment can be accomplished the same way, there you have it, you don't even have to take all the water out of the tank, just shut the water off.


----------



## Ron

No, what gasket you talking about? Never ever had a return on a fillvalve yet.


----------



## Protech

this one:


----------



## Ron

That is not needed if that is not the problem, yea if there is ever a leak there I replace the complete thing, but one in every thousand I come across may have the problem at that point.


----------



## 22rifle

I did this just yesterday. My office toilet needed a new fill valve. I don't get paid as a plumber to replace it.

I also do it if helping a friend out. 

But when I am getting paid for it, I do the whole thing.


----------



## Ron

It is just a tip, do it the way you think is best.


----------



## PLUMBINGITALL

Maybe thats why they call it plumber's putty and not plumber's silicone


----------



## U&I Plumber

On the fill valve, have your replacement ready to go in, turn the water off and flush, disconnect the water, use your rag to plug the hole in the bottom of the tank as you remove the old unit and plug the new unit in. Fast and clean.

Non paying customer, drop 1/2" marble into 3/4" cold supply, not many handymen can find this.

Do your self a favor on water service installs, throw away all of your pvc MIP's and use sch 80 pvc nipple and coupling, it will not shear off at the threads.


----------



## plumb4fun

U&I Plumber said:


> On the fill valve, have your replacement ready to go in, turn the water off and flush, disconnect the water, use your rag to plug the hole in the bottom of the tank as you remove the old unit and plug the new unit in. Fast and clean.
> 
> Non paying customer, drop 1/2" marble into 3/4" cold supply, not many handymen can find this.
> 
> Do your self a favor on water service installs, throw away all of your pvc MIP's and use sch 80 pvc nipple and coupling, it will not shear off at the threads.


I recommend that also, but I beg to differ; it will not shear off as easily at the threads. It still can break the same way, and does unfortunately. A very common problem at the school district. Could it be the California earthquakes?:whistling2:


----------



## U&I Plumber

plumb4fun said:


> I recommend that also, but I beg to differ; it will not shear off as easily at the threads. It still can break the same way, and does unfortunately. A very common problem at the school district. Could it be the California earthquakes?:whistling2:


 
My bad, under normal circumstances it will not shear off like a standard mip, CA is a nation unto itself and requires many differing ideas.


----------



## TradeQualified

Any problems with old pipelines, blame it on the builders, specially in old houses. lol


----------



## Ron

The terror of losing that short screw in the shower wall when taking a valve apart can rattle your nerves, stuff a cupped towel beneath the valve body to catch the screw/s if the inevitable does happen.


----------



## M5Plumb

Ron The Plumber said:


> The terror of losing that short screw in the shower wall when taking a valve apart can rattle your nerves, stuff a cupped towel beneath the valve body to catch the screw/s if the inevitable does happen.



You do it once...Then as Ron says above. yep yep, fun times.:thumbsup:


----------



## invictus

Reminds me of some apartments I helped airtest since we have all the equipment. Thousands of connections in the 2 story building (40 bathrooms). It would get up to 5 psi and decline like a draining sink from there after. We knew the underground was rock solid becuase we retest them after the concrete is poured. 

So we spent hours trying to find where the big leak was. Then started bubble testing all questionable fittings. Still only a few small leaks. Finally we filled the beast up with water and after 1-1/2 hours when the water was up to the second floor the building started raining everywhere. The plumbers barley glued nearly every fitting or skiped the primer or something, but this building was a hack job if I ever saw one. Then one of the mission caps popped off on first floor and it looked like a fire hydrant that is open in the summer time.

So If anyone here uses a smoke machine to airtest with, let me know where you got or how you made your contraption.

These guys spent days cutting out thier poorly glued fittings since you can't really reglue a fitting once it is done.


----------



## SunnyD HVAC

*toolbelt use when soldering copper*

When I am soldering copper in a basement or on a ladder, I take my light duty carpenter's tool belt. I _have all my fitting brushes I threaded a re bar tie thru handles, and striker connect to a metal shower curtain clip connected to hammer loop. its large enough to hold fittings flux, sand cloth, flux brush and other needed items, saves me from bedding down and alot of reach. looking, and running around. 

Idea won me tool tip of the month for pm mag I got some nice ridgid items for my contripution. 

Another tip is I place industry books by writer's such as dan holohan in my rest room, this way I learn something while on the toliet and appriate the science of plumbing more. 
_


----------



## Plumber Jim

Ron The Plumber said:


> Some might know how this is done but for you that don't, to replace a fluidmaster fillvalve quickly in 10 sec, here is a tip, below the float cup is a plastic ring, pull it upward, now the entire assembly will pull straight off, now do the same with the new one, push it on the shank, and reset the plastic ring, tank water level adjustment can be accomplished the same way, there you have it, you don't even have to take all the water out of the tank, just shut the water off.


 I always put the new o-ring on the old shaft too.

Plumber Jim


----------



## jmreid73

When setting a wc on a tiled floor, sometimes there is that one or two tiles that have voids under them. Tap them with a screwdriver and they sound hollow underneath. Invariably it is on that tile that a wobble wedge is needed. I've broken a tile or two (the hollow ones) trimming off the excess with my hammer and flat headed screwdriver. I've taken to using my painter's 5-in-1 tool and my torch. Get the tool good and hot and it slices right through with no damage to tile. Cool it off if the bowl when I'm done :thumbsup:


----------



## j.funk

only hacks use silicone. because there not sure about what they did. only use silicone when very necessary.


----------



## DUNBAR PLUMBING

Can't read through all of this but I did this a few weeks ago and worked well.




Was having trouble soldering, don't have 3 hands and I couldn't hold up on the pipe as I was trying to get the solder to the joint, along with flame.


I took the solder and wrapped a full circle around the joint where the fitting edge was, snipped it off so there wasn't any waste.


When I pushed up on the pipe, I now had the water rolling back away from the fitting I was soldering and I gauged how the heat hit the fitting.

The solder slowly melted with the majority going into the joint, the rest hit the top of the heater.

Got it soldered and sped up the replacement of the water heater.

Can't remember the piping arrangement but I didn't have the ability to drop a belly in the pipe close by.


----------



## Airgap

gtglobe said:


> These 3 points really worth note when working in tight places.
> 
> Always use safety precautions with the propane torch and solder.
> 
> Good safety glasses are a must.
> 
> Wear protective clothing. Hot solder dropping on an arm or leg can cause severe burns.


These are not tips for professional plumbers. These are things learned in the first week of apprenticeship


----------



## ILPlumber

gtglobe said:


> These 3 points really worth note when working in tight places.
> 
> Always use safety precautions with the propane torch and solder.
> 
> Good safety glasses are a must.
> 
> Wear protective clothing. Hot solder dropping on an arm or leg can cause severe burns.


 
You get an A+ from me for efficient use of bullet points. 

If you put bullet points next to worthless crap it becomes worthwhile. C'mon airgap, this is sound bullet pointed advice:no:


----------



## ILPlumber

These 2 points really worth note when working in tight places.


Don't fart
Don't let your apprentice fart
See, bullets do make a difference.:thumbup:


----------



## Redwood

ILPlumber said:


> These 2 points really worth note when working in tight places.
> 
> 
> Don't fart
> Don't let your apprentice fart
> See, bullets do make a difference.:thumbup:


Very important advice!
Farting in tight quarters while soldering can lead to blue flame....
Very dangerous!


----------



## DUNBAR PLUMBING

I caught the back of my sweat pants on fire one day trying to plan a controlled fart. 

I was hitting my target, created more flames than anticipated, and there was no smell...

but I caught on fire was smacking myself trying to put the flames out. 

Pulled my pants down cause I surely couldn't do it and see what I was putting out.


The life of Roast Duck is tough, lemme tell ya. :no:


----------



## Redwood

Roast Duck said:


> I caught the back of my sweat pants on fire one day trying to plan a controlled fart.
> 
> I was hitting my target, created more flames than anticipated, and there was no smell...
> 
> but I caught on fire was smacking myself trying to put the flames out.
> 
> Pulled my pants down cause I surely couldn't do it and see what I was putting out.
> 
> 
> The life of Roast Duck is tough, lemme tell ya. :no:


Burnt farts have no smell!:thumbup:


----------



## 422 plumber

I haven't drank a beer in about 15 years, but every now and then I can bust ass and you would swear I drank Old Style all night. I was on a lift at a nuke, and farted so bad it drove everybody out of the room, me included. The apprentice with me still talks it about. That was real "shock and awe."


----------



## Redwood

jjbex said:


> I haven't drank a beer in about 15 years, but every now and then I can bust ass and you would swear I drank Old Style all night. I was on a lift at a nuke, and farted so bad it drove everybody out of the room, me included. The apprentice with me still talks it about. That was real "shock and awe."


The Force is With You!:thumbup:
I was at a volunteer fire department meeting one night and I blew out a good one...

I cleared the meeting hall with 150 people in it!
They were bailing out of every exit...
Nobody went back in for about 10 minutes...

Thats Power!:thumbup:

I can fart next to a septic tank with the lid off outside and you will know it!


----------



## Airgap

Proper Posting Techniques:


Read through posts to make sure what you put down isn't dumb
Be careful eating when reading posts as to not spit on screen
I'm out of ideas now, I just wanted to use one more bullet, they are cool


----------



## 422 plumber

Redwood,
that's funny. I am glad that at 45 years old, farts and the Three Stooges are still funny. I bet when you go the the fire barn, some people still don't sit too close to you, and somebody will bring that episode up.


----------



## Redwood

jjbex said:


> Redwood,
> that's funny. I am glad that at 45 years old, farts and the Three Stooges are still funny. I bet when you go the the fire barn, some people still don't sit too close to you, and somebody will bring that episode up.


I retired from the department after 26 years of service...
They had a pension deal and I was fully vested I wasn't going to gain anything by staying...

I still go the the annual banquet and there is often talk about the awesome power that a few of us had...

I wasn't the only one but I probably hold the record for displacement of people from an area...

We had a lot of talent in our fire company and when the department meeting was held at our firehouse and we had to serve refreshments the power of food was always a consideration for the event.

kielbasa cooked in beer and sourkraut with a side of baked beans was a popular choice...:laughing:


----------



## Plasticman

If you are in a pinch for room, you can use nylon grade line or string to saw a pvc pipe in half just like you would a cable saw. Same method. Works great.


----------



## ROCKSTARPLUMBER

PVC glue will seal an open wound. SO will gun powder, but we don't use that anymore. Not since the accident.


----------



## Ron

Ok was doing a faucet replacement on a pedistal sink today, nice house nice sink, of course I had to replace the pop up cause of the new finish they had, from PB to ORB, well you all know it can be a PITA to replace this without pulling the sink, limited space for channel locks, so got to looking and came across the collar wrench tool that comes with Sloan Auto flush Side Mount Operator Unit, this was the perfect fit for that tight spot. so if you have this tool don't toss it away, keep it, it fits the pop-up brass mounting nuts found on them pop-ups. Saved my bacon or I would have need to pull the sink. :thumbsup:


----------



## Plumberman

I have a bag full of them. I knew I saved them for some reason!


----------



## Ron

Plumberman said:


> I have a bag full of them. I knew I saved them for some reason!


You know one could make there own tool for that, would not be that hard of a tool to make.


----------



## bob young

*Putty*



Plumbus said:


> Here's a new putty that doesn't stain trim or sensitive surfaces.


 WE PREFER ORANGE CRUSH PUTTY [ MADE WITH REAL ORANGES FROM SAN FRANCISCO ]:whistling2:


----------



## JK949

invictus said:


> So If anyone here uses a smoke machine to airtest with, let me know where you got or how you made your contraption.
> 
> These guys spent days cutting out thier poorly glued fittings since you can't really reglue a fitting once it is done.


Take a 6 gallon wet/dry vac, cut some sheet metal to line it, fill the bottom with sand. This way to can light smoke bombs without melting the plastic.

Get a dimmer light switch, plastic outlet box to rig it in, hook up female and male electical cords.

Use dimmer switch to lower rpms on shop vac, hook up hose to blower side to push smoke into system.

We used a worn out ridgid vac for this setup for a few jobs. We may end up getting a dedicated machine in the future, but this will get it done on the cheap.


----------



## Optimus Primer

For those that use a plumb bob, instead of using string to thread through the top of the bob, use a fishing leader. Then leave the little clasp on the end and tie your string to that clasp. Also if you drip primer on most finished surfaces pvc glue takes it right up. just wipe it up with a rag quickly.


----------



## MT Plumber

Heat up cold plumber's putty from your truck in the customer's microwave - much faster than using your apprentice's armpits


----------



## cajunplumberjoe

JK949-good idea on the "smoke machine". that will save me a few bucks.supply house told me their brand of smoke bombs did not get hot ..wrong. did you know pvc is transparent when it starts burning.....gotta love those squirt bottles. i aged about 20 years that day.oh yeah , i was still an apprentice then. bosses son was full of bad ideas.


----------



## sikxsevn

airgap said:


> Simple, but effective. If you've got a lot of DWV to do, take some duct tape, and glue you're quart cans of primer and glue together. It's surprisingly handy.


I usually tape 2 glues and 1 primer together on rough-ins. you use twice as much glue as primer, and 3 cans taped together are harder to spill than two.


----------



## Proud Plumber

I once made an extremely STUPID mistake. I pulled up on a new construction driveway to unload fixtures. I had a qt of purple primer leak and leave a very dark stain on a driveway. However, clear cleaner cleaned it up most the way. With in a couple of days the sun took care of the rest. It will take it out of a porcelain/enamel tub as well. 

One of my services is tub repairs. I have seen it all done to bath tubs.


----------



## tooslow

brain freeze said:


> i apply a anti-seize coating on pump flange studs and bolts.
> 
> it will help the next guy when work needs to be done.
> 
> never know, that next guy could be me.
> 
> Vince
> 
> there's always one that gives you trouble


II did a job in Long Beach Ca., they had real corrosion prob. there and they had a spec. where they req. non-ox greas to all nuts and bolts on flanged fittings then wrapped with a heavy duty wax paper that came in a 4 inch wide roll.

My point of connection had this application and the nuts spun off as if new!

I put this stuff on all my underground jobs. It is similar to cosmoline.

Way mo better than Henry's


----------



## rooterboy

Killertoiletspider said:


> I would not be using silicone for anything connected to potable water, some silicones can leach into the water system.


 
Silicone is good for drains. The Code and, authority having jurisdiction is very particular about what gets into potable water.
David


----------



## rooterboy

sikxsevn said:


> I usually tape 2 glues and 1 primer together on rough-ins. you use twice as much glue as primer, and 3 cans taped together are harder to spill than two.


I have spilt so many cans of primer that they don't outlast the glue. This is a good tip using a nice steady tripod. Thanks David:yes:


----------



## rooterboy

*using Teflon tape and pipe dope.*

OK hear is my question. Do you put the teflon tape on first or the pipe dope ? I do not know if the UPC has an instillation standard on this ? I have always put on the tape so it was nice and tight in the threads than put on a little pipe dope on top of the Teflon tape. One of my buddies insisted I did it wrong and if I had worked for him I would be fired for doing this.


----------



## uaplumber

Tape then dope.


----------



## rooterboy

*abs glue pot qt can*

When I was doing new construction. I would wrap duct tape all around the side of my glue pot and put Teflon paste on the lid. So when I dripped abs glue on the pit it was easy to take off when it dried. I also like the red plastic brush better than the cotton ball end. David


----------



## Christina

*Basket Strainer sealing fights, non professional for public views*



Mike Jessome said:


> Silicone anything you teflon, put a beed of silicon on waste and over flows silicone po plugs throw away that putty use silicone, just don't forget to wipe away the excess.


Basket Strainers... Throw the putty out the door... try tub & tile caulk. Use a bead of tub & tile between the basket and the sink, tighten it up, reconnect the drain and wash all excess away. The soft bristle paint brush helps with washing the tub/tile caulk aways so you don't see a thing! No big gaps for water to set in! No leaks!


----------



## GREENPLUM

I use 100% Clear Silcone, its instantly waterproof, clean up w/ denatured alcohol.


----------



## pauliplumber

A 4'' St. closet flange will fit over a 3" 90 hub (ABS, PVC). Might get you out of a jam once in a while.


----------



## hometodos

Ron The Plumber said:


> The terror of losing that short screw in the shower wall when taking a valve apart can rattle your nerves, stuff a cupped towel beneath the valve body to catch the screw/s if the inevitable does happen.


Another idea is to use a large drink cup from McD. Cut it in half lengthwise and cut off the bottom. Fits nicely into the valve hole through the tile and will help drain away water when removing the valve.


----------



## TheSkinnyGuy

Ron The Plumber said:


> Wash hands before you eat.


THAT'S what I'm doing wrong...

I keep a small bottle of hand sanitizer on my truck, use it after the job when finishing up my invoice for the HO.


----------



## SlickRick

When in doubt, take the check straight to the bank...


----------



## futz

arkyplumber said:


> I am with you on the silicone. I gave up putty along time ago, use it when it is just a must. Always on the drain side of things.


If you're having trouble with certain brand (Ipex  ) cleanout plugs leaking when testing DWV, clear-silicone the threads and just tighten a bit past hand tight. Wipe off the excess. Seals them up perfect. They still come out easy later, so don't worry about that. It's a lifesaver when you have an inspector coming and can't get the damn CO plug to stop piddling.

And, yes, definitely silicone instead of putty on all gel/acrylic tub/showers, on plastic sinks, and on any kitchen sink drain with a garbarator that can't be assembled with the rubber gasket (garb vibration shakes putty loose over time - every time).


----------



## futz

Bill said:


> Got me to thinking on another post.
> Mine? when soldering keep a small spray bottle filled with water.


Yes! Not only does it save time waiting for joints to cool (don't hit them with the water too soon though - let the solder harden first), but it's also a lifesaver if you accidently start a fire or start blackening something too much in tight quarters.

But here's an improvement on that: keep a bottle of dish soap in the truck and add a few drops to every fill up of your spray bottle. Instant solder joint cooling "napalm". The soap helps the water stick to the hot pipe/fittings better instead of just bouncing off. It cools faster, and helps clean the flux off better when you wipe.


----------



## TheMaster

futz said:


> If you're having trouble with certain brand (Ipex  ) cleanout plugs leaking when testing DWV, clear-silicone the threads and just tighten a bit past hand tight. Wipe off the excess. Seals them up perfect. They still come out easy later, so don't worry about that. It's a lifesaver when you have an inspector coming and can't get the damn CO plug to stop piddling.
> 
> And, yes, definitely silicone instead of putty on all gel/acrylic tub/showers, on plastic sinks, and on any kitchen sink drain with a garbarator that can't be assembled with the rubber gasket (garb vibration shakes putty loose over time - every time).


I can count on one hand in the past 25 years of doing service work that I have found an ISE garbage disposal leaking at the mounting bracket at the connection to the kitchen sink. None where installed with putty. It just dont happen when installed by an expert.


----------



## SlickRick

Don't wipe with the hand you eat with...
And I don't mean your joints !


----------



## Mega Smash

Ron The Plumber said:


> Some might know how this is done but for you that don't, to replace a fluidmaster fillvalve quickly in 10 sec, here is a tip, below the float cup is a plastic ring, pull it upward, now the entire assembly will pull straight off, now do the same with the new one, push it on the shank, and reset the plastic ring, tank water level adjustment can be accomplished the same way, there you have it, you don't even have to take all the water out of the tank, just shut the water off.


Along the same lines, this is what I do when I get a float-ball style fill valve to replace; 

Instead of farting around upside down with pliers trying to undo the nut, I'll just grab the float arm and snap it off. That allows you to grab the entire valve and spin it out.

I also keep a foot long piece of 1 1/4" with four notches cut into it. It's a great help for getting Moen faucet nuts tight.


----------



## DUNBAR PLUMBING

Always use 2 wax rings to set a toilet. 1 to "butter" the flange so water can never get from the horn of that toilet into the subfloor or substructure.

Relying on what you think is a durable move on wax rings and not filling those voids between tile/linoleum or just plain subfloor is just a recipe for disaster. It can become a quick avenue for wastewater to destroy under a toilet without anyone knowing for days/months or years. You do this when your ass is on the line.:blink:


----------



## Mega Smash

Interesting tip with the double wax gaskets.

I'm finding that for the majority of the Resi work I do, wax gaskets seem to be better suited than the foam ones. 

One HO actually requested that I use wax gaskets because she seemed to think that they "last longer" than the foam ones.

I've never liked the wax ones - then again, the majority of the work I've done in the past was commercial, and we always used foam for that.

The one thing I like about the wax ones, is that one size fits all.


----------



## Ron

OK here is a tip you may have never thought of, say your doing a waste and overflow change out with an apprentice, you or the apprentice is under the house, one on the upper side the other under the house, the one under the house finds the glue can lid is stuck and no channels to free the lid, with the shoe not attached to the drain hold the can lid though the tub drain opening and have have who ever is up top to loosen up the cap while you hold it tight from below. 

Cool trick.


----------



## Regulator

Respect your elders.
Keep your ears open and think before you speak.
Make sure your ladder's secure.
Keep an edge on your knife.
Don't get mad, and consider the consequences before you go to get even. What comes around, goes around and you may not need to help it along.
It's never as bad as it seems.
A year of experience is worth two of school.
If in doubt, ask the AHJ.


----------



## enosez

Regulator said:


> Don't get mad, and consider the consequences before you go to get even. What comes around, goes around and you may not need to help it along.


 
Great Advice! Somethimes its hard letting go though.
But you are right in the end, they usually get what they give!!:thumbup:


----------



## 70bbc

leaking ferncos use a wax ring on the pipe then slide the fernco up and tighten never drip great fix


----------



## plumbathens

*no need*



ncplumber said:


> I'm crazy about lavatory drains, haaate callbacks! so I put dope (Rectorseal T+2) on the top of the rubber cone washer, putty between the bottom of the washer and the friction washer, putty under the trim piece in the basin, dope on the threads at the trim piece and the tailpiece threads, and dope the beveled surface on all connections of the trap - tightening the middle nut first then the tailpiece connection then the wallpiece connection all hand tight first then a final +/- 1/8 turn with the channellocks.
> 
> Crazy, but I have almost zero leaks on drains. :blink:


i dont like call backs either thats why i fill up the fixture as much as possible every time to check it i hate working on something after someone does what u described but its not as bad as rapping black tape around it huh! if its installed and lighned up correctly there should not be any problems .


----------



## Christina

plumbathens said:


> i dont like call backs either thats why i fill up the fixture as much as possible every time to check it i hate working on something after someone does what u described but its not as bad as rapping black tape around it huh! if its installed and lighned up correctly there should not be any problems .


Who are you plumbathens have never been here huh? 
May want to go post an introduction... it will help.


----------



## JK949

futz said:


> Yes! Not only does it save time waiting for joints to cool (don't hit them with the water too soon though - let the solder harden first), but it's also a lifesaver if you accidently start a fire or start blackening something too much in tight quarters.



Keeps a wire wheel on hand for your drill or screwgun. Helps clean up dirty copper when needed. Also hides the evidence of charring wood or drywall.


----------



## DUNBAR PLUMBING

70bbc said:


> leaking ferncos use a wax ring on the pipe then slide the fernco up and tighten never drip great fix


 


Take it a step further:


Any time you have problems with any rubber connections, whether it be a fernco, mission or service weight gasket, run extremely hot water over them for minutes. Makes them very pliable and lets the rubber work so much easier that way.

On ground roughs when we ran cast for commercial jobs/schools, we'd have a fire barrel going all the time and threw our gaskets in a metal bucket of water. Pushing cast or pvc goes easy at that point.

Sha-willy-bing-BAM!


----------



## SlickRick

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> Take it a step further:
> 
> 
> Any time you have problems with any rubber connections, whether it be a fernco, mission or service weight gasket, run extremely hot water over them for minutes. Makes them very pliable and lets the rubber work so much easier that way.
> 
> On ground roughs when we ran cast for commercial jobs/schools, we'd have a fire barrel going all the time and threw our gaskets in a metal bucket of water. Pushing cast or pvc goes easy at that point.
> 
> Sha-willy-bing-BAM!


We put our gaskets around the backhoe exhaust...:thumbsup:


----------



## Airgap

Handy little dude...when the conditions are right.


----------



## SlickRick

AG, You need a new seat cover!


----------



## Airgap

slickrick said:


> AG, You need a new seat cover!


Aint dat the truth..sat down with too many screwdrivers, and channel locks in my pockets....Oh, and the 18"heavies(red ones):thumbsup:


----------



## Regulator

Airgap said:


> Handy little dude...when the conditions are right.
> View attachment 3765


Maybe add a hose connection vacuum breaker, just in case or at least a dual check if leakage is an issue.


----------



## beemex

*why?*



Mike Jessome said:


> Silicone anything you teflon, put a beed of silicon on waste and over flows silicone po plugs throw away that putty use silicone, just don't forget to wipe away the excess.


why would you do that if you ever have to tighten it or something caused the fitting to move the hardened silicone will be all broken up (crumbled) use silicone to seal tubs that's it.


----------



## Christina

beemex said:


> why would you do that if you ever have to tighten it or something caused the fitting to move the hardened silicone will be all broken up (crumbled) use silicone to seal tubs that's it.


Old argument.... But I did save some money with Geico today!!
So, who are you and what do you do? Repair, new construction, commercial, residential... Didn't see your intro... just wondering :whistling2:


----------



## Plumbdog

beemex said:


> why would you do that if you ever have to tighten it or something caused the fitting to move the hardened silicone will be all broken up (crumbled) use silicone to seal tubs that's it.


 
You need to submit an intro before posting tell us all a bit about yourself, which code you follow, years in the trade that sort of thing.
Not a big deal. Its just how it works.


----------



## Ashleymc

*Bleachies*

I always carry one or two containers of those pull out bleach and sanitzer wipes in the truck door..Always use em before getting into the cab..also use em to wipe down tools before I drive to the next call..


----------



## JK949

A filtered wet/dry vac without the hose can be right useful for indoor jackhammering situations.


----------



## Ashleymc

*No pay?*

I ALWAYS run their credit card first and have them sign the imprinted carbon reciept for full amount (+) on an iffy customer, or ANY main drain cleans..Main drain clog customers usually are the worst!! I dont get it?
With my k-60 and a 30-75 ft line its $575 ..Or just $79 for the call.
your choice..
Any shyster looking,slant eyes, or turben wearers are told upfront the cost and that is cash or credit card COD..
What am I saying ? I dont even answer foreign accents sounding peoples phone calls!! Unless Im cold,hungry and homeless..:laughing::laughing:


----------



## Yogiuk

*Silicon is a go*

Never had any problems with Silicone for sealing ,only on Nickel plated wastes where it Goes green due to the anti mould product built in.....
Been useing it now for like 10 years or so.


----------



## mssp

Airgap said:


> Simple, but effective. If you've got a lot of DWV to do, take some duct tape, and glue you're quart cans of primer and glue together. It's surprisingly handy.


 I do this and I also have a 4" flange screwed upside down on top of my ladder to set glue or flux in


----------



## RealLivePlumber

Before any water supply valve is even looked at, know where the main stop is, have access to it, and be sure that it works. 

I just left a job, 2nd floor rental apt. I repaired the lav faucet, and went to snug the packing on the control valve. 3/8 ips chrome riser broke at the valve. Full pipe into the bathroom. Basement access is through a Bilco, I dont have a key. So I fly to the truck, grab the bolt cutters, cut the chain, and shut off the main. Tennant is out of his mind. running around with towels, and what not. :laughing: I called the landlord, and there were just a few drips into the unit below. Man, did I get lucky!


----------



## 1703

I just waded through this thread- lotsa good stuff.

Here is my glue/primer-on-a-ladder-solution:

holds two quart cans nicely


----------



## 422 plumber

*glue and primer set-up*

I wrap duct tape around the cans, then make a strap out of twisted tape for it. We call this a "purse." Then you clamp a pony clamp thru the hammer hole in the top step of your ladder and drape the handle of your "purse" over the clamp.


----------



## OldSchool

kellybhutchings said:


> how do you clean excess silicone. I am talking about silicone not tub and tile caulk.


Any paint thinner works great


----------



## JK949

Any tips for smoother concrete patches?


----------



## PLUMB TIME

JK949 said:


> Any tips for smoother concrete patches?[/quote
> 
> Go back a couple hours later and re-trowl(sp.?) the cream on top:thumbsup:


----------



## TheMaster

JK949 said:


> Any tips for smoother concrete patches?


Wait until it almost hardens up and spray it with a water bottle and float it out. Dont over work the concrete or it will work the water and the rocks to the top.....also having alittle dry portland cement or topping mix on hand helps somtimes to sprinkle around if you have a bad spot,neither have rocks in it.


----------



## tooslow

*smooth concrete*



JK949 said:


> Any tips for smoother concrete patches?


If you use ready mix in a bag add a shovel of cement per bag to richen it up, tamp well to bring the fines to the top, float smooth and trowel at the right time (only trial and error can teach you this).


----------



## PlumbingTheCape

silicone is great, putty is like using windows 3.1


----------



## RealLivePlumber

PlumbingTheCape said:


> silicone is great, putty is like using windows 3.1


 Again with this????????:no:


----------



## Plumber Jeremy

I use paint thinner.


----------



## niteowl

JK949 said:


> Any tips for smoother concrete patches?


we use test plug cement from the supply house. amasing stuff-sets in about twice the time of hydraulic cement. dries hard and is reenterable
if needed. patch holes on outside of house around your new pipies-wet sponge off-5 mimutes later run water over repair-looks smoooooooth. you can add sand if you need a sand finish. of course this will only work if its not snowing out-burrrrrrrrrrrr. thank the lord i live south florida.:thumbup:


----------



## ChrisConnor

*Caulked toilets stuck to polished tile floor.*

Today, I had a Kohler Archer toilet that was hella-caulked to a polished tile floor. This is another one of the Kohler toilets that has the super large footprint to cover almost any old pattern.

Well, I take my razor knife and run along the edge of the caulk, but it won't cut through. I try until I break blade after blade and still was making no progress. :furious:
After much sweating and grunting I went back to the truck to find some inspiration and as I open up a tool tray I see my trusty pvc cable saw.

I started at the back of the toilet and sawed at the caulk line until I felt the flange and then did the front of the toilet and it pulled right off like it was supposed to.

Upon inspection, I find that almost then entire underside of the toilet is one big glob of caulk, even had caulk still stuck under the edges of the toilet. :blink: 
I said "Holy surface tension, Batman!" Whoever set the toilet must have spread it with a trowel, because that stuff was put down thick from side to side.

Makes you wonder what they were thinking.


----------



## Bill

ChrisConnor said:


> Today, I had a Kohler Archer toilet that was hella-caulked to a polished tile floor. This is another one of the Kohler toilets that has the super large footprint to cover almost any old pattern.
> 
> Well, I take my razor knife and run along the edge of the caulk, but it won't cut through. I try until I break blade after blade and still was making no progress. :furious:
> After much sweating and grunting I went back to the truck to find some inspiration and as I open up a tool tray I see my trusty pvc cable saw.
> 
> I started at the back of the toilet and sawed at the caulk line until I felt the flange and then did the front of the toilet and it pulled right off like it was supposed to.
> 
> Upon inspection, I find that almost then entire underside of the toilet is one big glob of caulk, even had caulk still stuck under the edges of the toilet. :blink:
> I said "Holy surface tension, Batman!" Whoever set the toilet must have spread it with a trowel, because that stuff was put down thick from side to side.
> 
> Makes you wonder what they were thinking.


Sounds to me like they were trying to prevent it from rocking:laughing:


----------



## rex

ChrisConnor said:


> Today, I had a Kohler Archer toilet that was hella-caulked to a polished tile floor. This is another one of the Kohler toilets that has the super large footprint to cover almost any old pattern.
> 
> Well, I take my razor knife and run along the edge of the caulk, but it won't cut through. I try until I break blade after blade and still was making no progress. :furious:
> After much sweating and grunting I went back to the truck to find some inspiration and as I open up a tool tray I see my trusty pvc cable saw.
> 
> I started at the back of the toilet and sawed at the caulk line until I felt the flange and then did the front of the toilet and it pulled right off like it was supposed to.
> 
> Upon inspection, I find that almost then entire underside of the toilet is one big glob of caulk, even had caulk still stuck under the edges of the toilet. :blink:
> I said "Holy surface tension, Batman!" Whoever set the toilet must have spread it with a trowel, because that stuff was put down thick from side to side.
> 
> Makes you wonder what they were thinking.


 
a very similar tip was just publised in PM magazine tool tips section he used a guitar string to cut behind a ped sink......i call them cutters **** killers


----------



## bartnc37

if the basement steps don't look like they'll hold the weight of you and the water heater they probably won't, at least it was on the way up and only a few steps up!


----------



## RealLivePlumber

bartnc37 said:


> if the basement steps don't look like they'll hold the weight of you and the water heater they probably won't, at least it was on the way up and only a few steps up!


Good tip. 

We have supported many a basement stair, especially for boilers!


----------



## Airgap

Always keep a sharpie in your shirt pocket...


----------



## ChrisConnor

Airgap said:


> Always keep a sharpie in your shirt pocket...


Except when the shirt is being washed or dried.:yes:


----------



## DUNBAR PLUMBING

*This worked good tonight*

Pushed a drop ceiling panel and dust got into my eye, started burning instantly. 

Took my bottle of water and removed the cap, put it right to my eye and squeezed the bottle.

Flushed my eye out quickly,


----------



## drtyhands

futz said:


> If you're having trouble with certain brand (Ipex  ) cleanout plugs leaking when testing DWV


 
Pesky cleanouts get wax ring material applied to the female threads of an occassional 2" cast iron cleanout tee,most 3" and all 4".


----------



## ChrisConnor

drtyhands said:


> Pesky cleanouts get wax ring material applied to the female threads of an occassional 2" cast iron cleanout tee,most 3" and all 4".


Why not rectorseal 5?


----------



## drtyhands

ChrisConnor said:


> Why not rectorseal 5?


too thin
Also if someone who is unaware puts it on ABS C/O's the fitting will crack.
What do you guys use #5 on?
not allowed on material utilizing petrolium base.
Our gas purveyors guys disslike it,say it clogs regs.I used to use it before I had some problems with a bunch of regulators on a medium gas.


----------



## ChrisConnor

drtyhands said:


> too thin
> Also if someone who is unaware puts it on ABS C/O's the fitting will crack.
> What do you guys use #5 on?
> not allowed on material utilizing petrolium base.
> Our gas purveyors guys disslike it,say it clogs regs.I used to use it before I had some problems with a bunch of regulators on a medium gas.


I don't use it, but I forgot the name of Megaloc.:laughing:

We don't use abs down here. PVC is king, but there were a bunch of houses plumbed with ABS back in the sixties. About the only thing you see ABS on here is mobile homes.


----------



## Optimus Primer

i use blue majic. i always apply it to the female threads too. Pretty much stops the leaks


----------



## drtyhands

I've had 40' of head pressure on cast iron multiple times,casting defects are frustrating.
Inspection is usually next day and I either wouldn't have time to get the replacement fitting from the supply house or it would be a total PITA dissassemble,maybe both.
I have a chunk of tar on the truck that I either get from the roofer or hot mopper.
After I lower the water level below the sandhole The fitting gets heated up with a torch just enough to melt tar into defect.Haven't been beaten yet.
Cracks are another story.Gotta yank-em'


----------



## Ron

Thread Split.

 draining-out-water-heater-thread-8111/


----------



## RealLivePlumber

I had to install a lav faucet on a laminate top that was built up, and it had a special undermount (yes, undermount on laminate) bowl.

The faucet had threaded shanks, and they were barely protruding through the countertop. Not enough to install the nuts, and the supply lines. 

I would usually use a hole saw to enlarge to lower layer of substrate, and tighten the nuts to the upper layer, but could not do that on this one.

I had some large O.D. (2" or so) thin galvanized sheet metal washers, (roofers use them to screw down insulation on flat roofs) I enlarged the holes with a uni-bit, and was able to tighten the nuts enough to suck the washer and nut up into the substrate, enough to get the risers on.


----------



## A Good Plumber

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> Pushed a drop ceiling panel and dust got into my eye, started burning instantly.
> 
> Took my bottle of water and removed the cap, put it right to my eye and squeezed the bottle.
> 
> Flushed my eye out quickly,


 
Wear Safety glasses!:no:


----------



## Don The Plumber

RealLivePlumber said:


> I had to install a lav faucet on a laminate top that was built up, and it had a special undermount (yes, undermount on laminate) bowl.
> 
> The faucet had threaded shanks, and they were barely protruding through the countertop. Not enough to install the nuts, and the supply lines.
> 
> I would usually use a hole saw to enlarge to lower layer of substrate, and tighten the nuts to the upper layer, but could not do that on this one.
> 
> I had some large O.D. (2" or so) thin galvanized sheet metal washers, (roofers use them to screw down insulation on flat roofs) I enlarged the holes with a uni-bit, and was able to tighten the nuts enough to suck the washer and nut up into the substrate, enough to get the risers on.


 They make extensions for lav faucets with 1/2" IPS shanks, that work perfect for thick counter tops. Looks like a long 1/2" brass nipple, that is threaded the whole way, & 1/2" FIP on one end, to screw onto the shanks, & extend them. My supply house here, stocks them.


----------



## RealLivePlumber

Thanks. I have also robbed the ones that come with the 1/4 turn washer boxes. We were on a job in the sticks, and no supply house close by, so I had to improvise.


----------



## GREENPLUM

Dont trade work for beer


----------



## Plumber Jeremy

Shake your customers hand! I've used Blue Majic too, not bad. Job got done.


----------



## Jacks

Silicone is really excellent! It does a fantastic job.. Also may be you wanna try to visit 
http://www.jacksplummingandrepair.com/..


----------



## SlickRick

Why would we want to do that?


----------



## stillaround

Plumber Jeremy said:


> Shake your customers hand! I've used Blue Majic too, not bad. Job got done.


 Some customers dont want to shake..have to be sensitive to their body language....sounds a little kinky


----------



## Redwood

Jacks said:


> Silicone is really excellent! It does a fantastic job.. Also may be you wanna try to visit
> http://www.jacksplummingandrepair.com/..


Hey Jack!
How about an intro?
Or, are you just stopping by to drop a link?:whistling2:


----------



## kenneth

Jacks said:


> Silicone is really excellent! It does a fantastic job.. Also may be you wanna try to visit
> http://www.jacksplummingandrepair.com/..


jack, you are 100% correct. silicone, if done correctly, will never leak. love the stuff


----------



## justin

Ron said:


> Some might know how this is done but for you that don't, to replace a fluidmaster fillvalve quickly in 10 sec, here is a tip, below the float cup is a plastic ring, pull it upward, now the entire assembly will pull straight off, now do the same with the new one, push it on the shank, and reset the plastic ring, tank water level adjustment can be accomplished the same way, there you have it, you don't even have to take all the water out of the tank, just shut the water off.


i like that!! quick and easy , yet effective. you are a true genius.


----------



## PLUMBER_BILL

justin said:


> i like that!! quick and easy , yet effective. you are a true genius.


 
Woah ... Stop the horsen around.

I have been told by a very good source that F/M can ID the bottom part of a valve. If there is ever a problem and the bottom is older than
the top there will be no claim allowed for damages in case of a failure. 


Comments ???


----------



## GREENPLUM

PLUMBER_BILL said:


> Woah ... Stop the horsen around.
> 
> I have been told by a very good source that F/M can ID the bottom part of a valve. If there is ever a problem and the bottom is older than
> the top there will be no claim allowed for damages in case of a failure.
> 
> 
> Comments ???


 

its a lazy hack way to do things, replace the whole fill valve


----------



## justin

GREENPLUM said:


> its a lazy hack way to do things, replace the whole fill valve


hold that thought i need to pull mine and see if there are some distinctive markings or numbers that ties the bottom to the top. :laughing:


----------



## Ron

GREENPLUM said:


> its a lazy hack way to do things, replace the whole fill valve



Sweet :laughing:


----------



## GREENPLUM

Ron said:


> Sweet :laughing:


no offense ron :laughing:


----------



## Ron

GREENPLUM said:


> no offense ron :laughing:



None taken


----------



## Don The Plumber

I just know there has to be an even faster way, of changing a fluidmaster Maybe they could design a replacement toilet too, that would just fit over the old one, kind of like a bathtub liner.
But seriously, I'm sure pulling that ring off & replacing only top half of FM would be ok if it were new & was defective, but for me, I would always replace whole valve, no matter what. Knowing my luck, that bottom half would have something wrong with it, & then I would really want to kick myself in the a$$, for trying to save 90 seconds. JMO.
Also you can pull that ring up, & adjust fill valve up higher, if needed, after it is installed. I know most of you know that. Just make sure you get it seated back in properly.


----------



## tnoisaw

stillaround said:


> Some customers dont want to shake..have to be sensitive to their body language....sounds a little kinky


That's right-that's why I kiss them on the cheek or slap 'em on the rear.


----------



## RealLivePlumber

kyramary10 said:


> Honestly speaking, I admire a man who can do his own plumbing. But if you really don't know how to plumb, just go to online tutorial on how does plumbing work.


 Thanks for the helpful advice, Mr. Electrician. We are so glad you shared. 

Those on line tutorials sure do make a man a plumber:whistling2:


----------



## pauliplumber

Toilet Tips

Installing a new flush valve? Always make sure the overflow tube is cut below the flush handle hole. Might save a flood when the fill valve fails.


After installing a toilet, always tighten your bolts a 2nd time later. You will notice they always seem only hand tight about a 1/2 hour after installation as a result of settling, not as much on tile floors.

Installing a new toilet? Always make sure the flush valve nut is tight, every now and then I find one loose.


----------



## TheSkinnyGuy

RealLivePlumber said:


> Thanks for the helpful advice, Mr. Electrician. We are so glad you shared.
> 
> Those on line tutorials sure do make a man a plumber:whistling2:


besides... stick around and see what we think of many of those online tutorials.


----------



## EarltSqrl

*Use diatomacious earth to catch drips.*

I use diatomacious earth to catch drips. Then i sweep em up.:thumbup:


----------



## pauliplumber

Servicing a tub/shr valve with integral stops?

If you have other options to shut off water don't use them.

The insides have a tendecy to become brittle and fall apart, which may result in the new cartridge you just installed getting filled with debris and failing.


----------



## PLUMBER01

If you have to use two wax rings, I like to torch the two joining surfaces to have them MELD together, of course the expand-a-flange is ok also but you can't tell me you've never done it HA HA HA

Measure twice, cut once!

If you see a penny pick it up, all day long have good luck.

Here's one I tried once..sending parflex thru a gas sleeve to an island kitchen, put some duct tape on the end and have enough of it to put a 1" PVC cap on the end and it will pust right up without any problems, becaust their is nothing for it to grab on


----------



## RealLivePlumber

PLUMBER01 said:


> If you have to use two wax rings, I like to torch the two joining surfaces to have them MELD together, of course the expand-a-flange is ok also but you can't tell me you've never done it HA HA HA
> 
> Measure twice, cut once!
> 
> If you see a penny pick it up, all day long have good luck.
> 
> Here's one I tried once..sending parflex thru a gas sleeve to an island kitchen, put some duct tape on the end and have enough of it to put a 1" PVC cap on the end and it will pust right up without any problems, becaust their is nothing for it to grab on


 
What is "meld"?:laughing:

Musta been past your bed time.


----------



## PLUMBER01

RealLivePlumber said:


> What is "meld"?:laughing:
> 
> Musta been past your bed time.


 
meld
Definition
meld
[ meld ]
http://www.bing.com/caption/image/?bid=uhZt4kWXDW/H7A&bn=EDPG&form=DTPDIOTo hear the pronunciation, install Silverlight



TRANSITIVE AND INTRANSITIVE VERB 
meld·edpast and past participlemeld·ingpresent participlemelds3rd person present singular

1. 
combine: to cause things to combine or blend and become one thing or substance, or be combined or blended in this way


NOUN 
meldsplural

1. 
combination: a combination or blend of various things


[ Mid-20th century. Origin ? ] 

It's a REAL word ha ha ha


----------



## TheMaster

PLUMBER01 said:


> If you have to use two wax rings, I like to torch the two joining surfaces to have them MELD together, of course the expand-a-flange is ok also but you can't tell me you've never done it HA HA HA
> 
> Measure twice, cut once!
> 
> If you see a penny pick it up, all day long have good luck.
> 
> Here's one I tried once..sending parflex thru a gas sleeve to an island kitchen, put some duct tape on the end and have enough of it to put a 1" PVC cap on the end and it will pust right up without any problems, becaust their is nothing for it to grab on


I've never had to use two wax rings. Why would you use two wax rings?


----------



## PLUMBER01

TheMaster said:


> I've never had to use two wax rings. Why would you use two wax rings?


 When the flange is too low, and remodel companies like to come in and change a floor lifting the elevation of the floor much higher and not allowing someone come in to change it to the correct measurements for the new floor.


----------



## TheMaster

PLUMBER01 said:


> When the flange is too low, and remodel companies like to come in and change a floor lifting the elevation of the floor much higher and not allowing someone come in to change it to the correct measurements for the new floor.


I disagree with you about how to correct that issue. I never use two wax seals,I always correct the flange issue and use one wax. Welcome to the plumbingzone:thumbsup:


----------



## SlickRick

TheMaster said:


> I disagree with you about how to correct that issue. I never use two wax seals,I always correct the flange issue and use one wax. Welcome to the plumbingzone:thumbsup:


I had a customer call Fri. said when we moved the drain for a new shower that we did not install a "P" trap and sewer gas was coming into the shower. I ask the guy's what they did to relocate the drain, and what other work was being done. Guess what, new tile floor and the floor guy installed new toilet without raising flange. I advised her to turn on the shower and stick her nose at the base of the toilet and let me know what she found. Tile guy trying to cover his ars.


----------



## PLUMBER01

TheMaster said:


> I disagree with you about how to correct that issue. I never use two wax seals,I always correct the flange issue and use one wax. Welcome to the plumbingzone:thumbsup:


 Never had a problem with it yet!! No call backs years later either, don't knock it till ya try it.


----------



## TheMaster

PLUMBER01 said:


> Never had a problem with it yet!! No call backs years later either, don't knock it till ya try it.


I find two waxseals leaking on a regular basis........9 times out of 10 a new tile floor was installed within the past 0-5 years.:thumbsup: I dont try what others do and fail.


----------



## Ron

Just use jumbo wax ring instead of 2 regs.


----------



## PLUMBER01

TheMaster said:


> I find two waxseals leaking on a regular basis........9 times out of 10 a new tile floor was installed within the past 0-5 years.:thumbsup: I dont try what others do and fail.


That's because it is not done my way, fusing the two together essentially is making one, not just putting one on top of the other, that may last if your lucky a year, how do you think the single wax is made HEATED INTO A MOLD


----------



## TheMaster

PLUMBER01 said:


> That's because it is not done my way, fusing the two together essentially is making one, not just putting one on top of the other, that may last if your lucky a year, how do you think the single wax is made HEATED INTO A MOLD


That much wax without being reinforced is too weak and it leaks...especially if the sewer cloggs. Wax is not suppose to span that big of a gap.


----------



## 422 plumber

What you are doing is making wax act as pipe. I don't care if you do a *Vulcan Mind Meld* on the wax rings, if it gets plunged vigorously, the wax gets blown out. TM is correct, you need to fix the flange problem, rather than jerry-rig it.


----------



## PLUMBER01

I can say I have never had any problem at all doing it that way, don't get me wrong I don't go around using it like this all the time or anything, I'm just saying I have never had any problems, but in essence to the sewere backing up, thats usually when I find the old seals are ready to be replaced, But I can still say I have never had a problem with doing it like this.


----------



## ILPlumber

Can you buy wax rings in 20' sticks?


----------



## LEAD INGOT

Matt said:


> Can you buy wax rings in 20' sticks?


 I buy mine in an extruded tube. Then I just cut off the thickness I need.:whistling2:


----------



## Optimus Primer

is that a tube of wax rings in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?


----------



## LEAD INGOT

house plumber said:


> is that a tube of wax rings in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?


 More impressive than a roll of quarters.


----------



## PLUMBER01

WOW, HArsh I bet you guys have NEVER had a leak either, and those are the types I would never hire in the first place


----------



## Titan Plumbing

PLUMBER01 said:


> WOW, HArsh I bet you guys have NEVER had a leak either, and those are the types I would never hire in the first place


Ah, don't get all butt hurt.............When you bring some GOOD suggestions to the table they'll welcome you with open arms. As long as you promote questionable practices this will happen.


----------



## PLUMBER01

Choctaw said:


> Ah, don't get all butt hurt.............When you bring some GOOD suggestions to the table they'll welcome you with open arms. As long as you promote questionable practices this will happen.


 Not hurt at all, as I see it it HAS worked that's the only reason I set it up as a TIP, because it has worked, I rarely get ANY call Backs and can't remember one I have had for faulty plumbing. So Yea I'm not hurt at all, I built my business on pride of work and have never advertised, never needed to, because my work and ethics always spoke for itself, I sure as hell would not have offer a tip if I ever had a problem doing or using anything


----------



## Titan Plumbing

I will say that it may work, but one thing's for sure.......it's not the *right* way to set a toilet.

I don't even use waxes with the plastic horn.


----------



## PLUMBER01

Choctaw said:


> I will say that it may work, but one thing's for sure.......it's not the *right* way to set a toilet.
> 
> I don't even use waxes with the plastic horn.


 I dont like using those either, once you use a toilet auger you can almost kiss it goodbye


----------



## PLUMBER01

OK here's another tip. when using a inside the pipe cutter, make sure you stuff something in the drain just incase it comes out of the drill, it will keep you from loosing your cutter, and If you tell me using a inside the pipe cutter is not the RIGHT THING TO USE, I'm pulling my account ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha


----------



## TheMaster

PLUMBER01 said:


> OK here's another tip. when using a inside the pipe cutter, make sure you stuff something in the drain just incase it comes out of the drill, it will keep you from loosing your cutter, and If you tell me using a inside the pipe cutter is not the RIGHT THING TO USE, I'm pulling my account ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha


What do you use inside pipe cutters for?


----------



## PLUMBER01

TheMaster said:


> What do you use inside pipe cutters for?


 cutting a shower drain stubup, used it on remodels a few times, Are you saying you've never used one?


----------



## Protech

There are many uses. I use them all the time under slabs.



TheMaster said:


> What do you use inside pipe cutters for?


----------



## TheMaster

PLUMBER01 said:


> cutting a shower drain stubup, used it on remodels a few times, Are you saying you've never used one?





Protech said:


> There are many uses. I use them all the time under slabs.


Thanks for the tips guys:thumbsup:


----------



## 1703

Also on the inside cutter- make dam sure the set screw that sets the depth is tight- unless you want the inside of the pipe to look like a barber shop pole.


----------



## RealLivePlumber

*Hot knife*

I had to replace a lift and turn, tubular plastic waste and overflow. The die cast strainer had about rotted away, and the tangs inside were gone. Could not grab the shoe with pliers to twist it, very tight spot. No chance of cutting it off from underneath. 

I heated up a putty knife with my torch, and used it to melt through the plastic shoe, then was able to wheel the shoe off the strainer by hand.:thumbsup: No chance of hurting the tub, either. 

This also works well with those cheapo shower strainers. 

Replaced it with a Wolverine 17 ga. trip lever


----------



## TheMaster

TIP: get an internal drain wrench to get shoe strainers out that the cross pieces have broken out or shoes that are manufactured with no cross pieces.


----------



## Ron

TheMaster said:


> TIP: get an internal drain wrench to get shoe strainers out that the cross pieces have broken out or shoes that are manufactured with no cross pieces.


Like this one that I have, works everytme.


----------



## RealLivePlumber

Good tip.

Course, it's just another tool to take up more space and add more weight to the truck.


----------



## Will

requires a helper and a 2x4, but you can cut pvc pipe in the tub box for a trap adapter by holding a 2x4 and cutting with a cable saw at the bottam of the 2x4. as long as the helper holds the board steddy the cut is always straight and level.


----------



## Bayside500

Will said:


> requires a helper and a 2x4, but you can cut pvc pipe in the tub box for a trap adapter by holding a 2x4 and cutting with a cable saw at the bottam of the 2x4. as long as the helper holds the board steddy the cut is always straight and level.


good tip, will have to try it someday :thumbsup:


----------



## Optimus Primer

Will said:


> requires a helper and a 2x4, but you can cut pvc pipe in the tub box for a trap adapter by holding a 2x4 and cutting with a cable saw at the bottam of the 2x4. as long as the helper holds the board steddy the cut is always straight and level.


No offense but wouldn't an inside cutter be faster and the need for only one guy? By the way if you buy a brass craft cable saw they have a lifetime warranty. When it breaks call the number on the back and they send you a new one free no questions asked. Or go to home depot and get the number off the back of one and call and tell them it broke and they will send you one free and no questions asked.


----------



## pauliplumber

Ron said:


> Like this one that I have, works everytme.


I can't find those anywhere. Nobody online sells them, no local plumbing supply's here sell em. I can usually get them out by cutting wiith a dremel or hackzall, but I like the looks of that tool.


----------



## Ron

pauliplumber said:


> I can't find those anywhere. Nobody online sells them, no local plumbing supply's here sell em. I can usually get them out by cutting wiith a dremel or hackzall, but I like the looks of that tool.


Here is a web site about them might ask your supplier how you can order one.

Or call there 800 #

http://www.rectorseal.com/index.php?site_id=1&product_id=144


----------



## Phat Cat

Yes, I really do have one.

Do NOT let a homeowner help you lift a water heater in place. It could ultimately lead to an MRI and a trip to an Ortho specialist or so I have been told.


----------



## RealLivePlumber

Don't work for rw plumbing:laughing:


----------



## Ron

PlumbCrazy said:


> Yes, I really do have one.
> 
> Do NOT let a homeowner help you lift a water heater in place. It could ultimately lead to an MRI and a trip to an Ortho specialist or so I have been told.


Have what?


----------



## Phat Cat

Ron said:


> Have what?


A plumbing tip Ron! Pop another pill, it's all good.


----------



## Ron

PlumbCrazy said:


> A plumbing tip Ron! Pop another pill, it's all good.


:laughing:


----------



## Will

house plumber said:


> No offense but wouldn't an inside cutter be faster and the need for only one guy? By the way if you buy a brass craft cable saw they have a lifetime warranty. When it breaks call the number on the back and they send you a new one free no questions asked. Or go to home depot and get the number off the back of one and call and tell them it broke and they will send you one free and no questions asked.



True a inside the pipe cutter would work too, but on a top out when the pipe is 12" above the slab it is quicker to do the tip I said. With a inside the pipe cutter you would have to cut the pipe with a hack saw to get it in range of the inside the pipe cuter, with my way you just let it rip. Plus the helper has to do something.:thumbsup: 

Oh yea, thanks for the tip on the warranty. I didn't know that.


----------



## Optimus Primer

Will said:


> True a inside the pipe cutter would work too, but on a top out when the pipe is 12" above the slab it is quicker to do the tip I said. With a inside the pipe cutter you would have to cut the pipe with a hack saw to get it in range of the inside the pipe cuter, with my way you just let it rip. Plus the helper has to do something.:thumbsup:
> 
> Oh yea, thanks for the tip on the warranty. I didn't know that.


if its too high i just hit it with the sawzall then use the inside cutter. but either way i guess.


----------



## justin

Here's a tip for new construction plumbers . I'm sure this will spark a few also... Try prefabbing all your rough ins in the shop. Been doing it for five years now and it has saved me many many many worries. Plus it totally sells the product . It totally blows the builders mind. Oh well ...it's worked for me.


----------



## Mr. Green

See this is why I come on forums and seek info. for guys and info like this. Thanks Plumbus, thats priceless info right there.


----------



## Will

I might catch some heat for this one. I used to work with a old man 70+ now, but he would put primer on pvc male adapters to brass\steel threads. I though he was crazy, but he said that the primer softens up the pvc and it fuses to the mold of the brass so it won't be under stress and crack later. And it realy does work, plus it makes it impossible to cross thread the pvc. I've seen him do it on 2" pvc feeding a restaurant and 3\4 water services to houses all with primer on the threads and no pipe dope\teflon tape. And no failures to date that I know of. I personally use teflon tape on pvc, but I've seen primer work and without failure.


----------



## SlickRick

Will said:


> I might catch some heat for this one. I used to work with a old man 70+ now, but he would put primer on pvc male adapters to brass\steel threads. I though he was crazy, but he said that the primer softens up the pvc and it fuses to the mold of the brass so it won't be under stress and crack later. And it realy does work, plus it makes it impossible to cross thread the pvc. I've seen him do it on 2" pvc feeding a restaurant and 3\4 water services to houses all with primer on the threads and no pipe dope\teflon tape. And no failures to date that I know of. I personally use teflon tape on pvc, but I've seen primer work and without failure.


You were right.


----------



## Airgap

Will said:


> I might catch some heat for this one. I used to work with a old man 70+ now, but he would put primer on pvc male adapters to brass\steel threads. I though he was crazy, but he said that the primer softens up the pvc and it fuses to the mold of the brass so it won't be under stress and crack later. And it realy does work, plus it makes it impossible to cross thread the pvc. I've seen him do it on 2" pvc feeding a restaurant and 3\4 water services to houses all with primer on the threads and no pipe dope\teflon tape. And no failures to date that I know of. I personally use teflon tape on pvc, but I've seen primer work and without failure.


Sounds like he ran out of pipe dope one day and didn't want to leave so he thought...."I'll give it a try"


----------



## justin

TheMaster said:


> TIP: get an internal drain wrench to get shoe strainers out that the cross pieces have broken out or shoes that are manufactured with no cross pieces.


Yeah, and make sure it's a ridgid not an import. I learned that lesson real quick. Good tip though


----------



## Tatersalad

Best tip I can think of off hand is the use of a voice recorder.
When I walk a "in progress" job, I make verbal notes on things I want changed or notice need attention. At the end of the day I can review the info and direct the proper labor to attend the issue. I don't need to send a journeyman to adjust a b-vent that is too close to wood. 

Learning how to use this tool has made me super organized and very very rarely forget anything. I can even use it to make parts lists for jobs. Just mentally plumb the project aloud. 

I don't use the one built into my phone.. it is cumbersome and just sucks. I use the Olympus VN-1800. It's just a tad bigger than a BIC lighter. Super easy to slip in your shirt pocket. 

Best tool I ever leaned to use. The power of organization. :thumbup:


----------



## LEAD INGOT

When soldering, and you have a torch in one hand, and solder in the other. Don't use your teeth to bend the solder if you have fillings. Zapped myself twice today.


----------



## ROCKSTARPLUMBER

LEAD INGOT said:


> When soldering, and you have a torch in one hand, and solder in the other. Don't use your teeth to bend the solder if you have fillings. Zapped myself twice today.



i do that daily almost. So, the static electricity is a little bit more harsh in your area? Oh, and I have no fillings as of to date. Been to the dentist once, 17 yrs ago. Hated it so much back then, that i decided that day, I would never return. I takes care of the teefs.


----------



## Protech

I find that it's handy with customers that have selective memory as well.



Tatersalad said:


> Best tip I can think of off hand is the use of a voice recorder.
> When I walk a "in progress" job, I make verbal notes on things I want changed or notice need attention. At the end of the day I can review the info and direct the proper labor to attend the issue. I don't need to send a journeyman to adjust a b-vent that is too close to wood.
> 
> Learning how to use this tool has made me super organized and very very rarely forget anything. I can even use it to make parts lists for jobs. Just mentally plumb the project aloud.
> 
> I don't use the one built into my phone.. it is cumbersome and just sucks. I use the Olympus VN-1800. It's just a tad bigger than a BIC lighter. Super easy to slip in your shirt pocket.
> 
> Best tool I ever leaned to use. The power of organization. :thumbup:


----------



## Richard Hilliard

*Plumbing tips*

:laughing:


ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> i do that daily almost. So, the static electricity is a little bit more harsh in your area? Oh, and I have no fillings as of to date. Been to the dentist once, 17 yrs ago. Hated it so much back then, that i decided that day, I would never return. I takes care of the teefs.


 
Do wood teeth conduct electricity?


----------



## Bill

Tatersalad said:


> Best tip I can think of off hand is the use of a voice recorder.
> When I walk a "in progress" job, I make verbal notes on things I want changed or notice need attention. At the end of the day I can review the info and direct the proper labor to attend the issue. I don't need to send a journeyman to adjust a b-vent that is too close to wood.
> 
> Learning how to use this tool has made me super organized and very very rarely forget anything. I can even use it to make parts lists for jobs. Just mentally plumb the project aloud.
> 
> I don't use the one built into my phone.. it is cumbersome and just sucks. I use the Olympus VN-1800. It's just a tad bigger than a BIC lighter. Super easy to slip in your shirt pocket.
> 
> Best tool I ever leaned to use. The power of organization. :thumbup:


Use one all the time. Started when I drove over the road and we had to record mileage as we crossed every state line.


----------



## Epox

*Hilarious!!!*

I have felt the urge,,hmmmm endless possibilities:whistling2:



Protech said:


> Sewer call customer training kit:
> 
> 1 - 5 gallon bucket
> 1 - 1 gallon bucket
> 1 gallon of part “a” marine foam
> 1 gallon of part "b" marine foam
> Funnel (optional)
> 
> step 1.
> After failing to receive payment for cabling/jetting services retrieve kit
> from truck and mix "a" and "b" thoroughly in 5 gallon bucket.
> 
> step 2.
> Dispense in appropriate location(s). Replace cleanout caps and traps if applicable.
> 
> step 3.
> After returning home, open beer of choice and consume. Log onto PZ and share with experience with friends.
> :thumbsup:


----------



## Epox

I agree, replace whole thing, for more reasons than one but not only that the customer gets grumpy when youre in there for 45 seconds and hits him/her for full service rate. Give them there moneys worth.


----------



## Epox

Yup. Flanges left below floor level tend to hold water and rusts out the metal ring. Too low is just as bad as too high. Fix it right. I walked off a job once and they had to end someone else who was willing to take the short cut


----------



## Txmasterplumber

PipemanNYC said:


> I have heard of a special tool that breaks them off.. and basin nuts also .. i havnt ever seen it but some guys say its out there,, anyone heard of this?


 iv'e got one for the basin nuts, made by Pasco, works good


----------



## plumbpro

I've got a ridgid faucet and sink installer, it does a great job. I also have a tool by ridgid to remove the plastic nuts.


----------



## 422 plumber

plumbpro said:


> I've got a ridgid faucet and sink installer, it does a great job. I also have a tool by ridgid to remove the plastic nuts.


Me too. Works great.


----------



## Dun' Right

Got a bunch of stops to put on? Take an extra wall bracket for a mop sink, cut off the ends. It is solid, and is perfectly 3/8 in diameter. You can stick it into the 3/8 outlet of a stop, and use it as a back up to tighten the stop. I've done it for a long time. It's quick, and easy. Just make sure you leave the 3/8 nut on the stop, or you could risk ovaling the threads.


----------



## plumbpro

Dun' Right said:


> Got a bunch of stops to put on? Take an extra wall bracket for a mop sink, cut off the ends. It is solid, and is perfectly 3/8 in diameter. You can stick it into the 3/8 outlet of a stop, and use it as a back up to tighten the stop. I've done it for a long time. It's quick, and easy. Just make sure you leave the 3/8 nut on the stop, or you could risk ovaling the threads.


I got a ridgid 1 stop wrench for that, the bracket is good in a pinch.


----------



## greenscoutII

Wow, lots of good tips here!

I'll add a couple of my own just in case someone can put them to good use.

If you are on a call where you have to pull a toilet and discover that the flange bolts just spin when you try to remove the nuts, first, curse the tile guy who set it for not double nutting, then, reach for your trusty Dremel. Install a cut off wheel and cut the nuts in half from the top and proceed to pull the toilet.

I have another trick that saved my butt a couple of times. Out here a lot of new houses have PEX stub outs for all the fixture supplies. Normally, this is fine as a guy will typically be supplied with crimp on stops. The dual stop for the hot side of the kitchen sink however seems to only be available as a compression style stop. Yes, compression stops can be used on PEX, but only if you also have the stainless steel insert as well.

If a guy finds himself needing to install a dual stop and not being in possession of an insert, he can do the following. First, disassemble and remove all plastic parts from the dual stop, then solder in a 1/2" PEX male fitting adapter. Allow to cool, reassemble the stop, and crimp onto the PEX stub out.

Not my preferred way of doing things, but if a guy is out in the boonies by himself, it's a field expedient solution.


----------



## DownHill

Plastic shoe storage box. About $1.00. Put your FluidMaster changing tools and a rag in there. Dump everything on the floor. Water off, flush, remove Fluidmaster and catch the water with it. Catches that extra gallon held by old Am. Stds. 

Found it to be a better way than sucking it out or trying to rag it off.


----------



## USPDPro

I had the same issues. Instead of pipe dope I use Tephlon Tape.


----------



## yoda

Instead of using 2 wax gasgets, you can usually pry up the flange once you've removed the screws, then place 1/2" crimp rings under the screw holes to reduce the distance between the toilet and the flange. Then use longer and possibly larger #10 screws to hold the flange down. The toilet is still properly supported by the floor, and the flange is good and solid. if anyone is concerned about the flange they can add more screws.


----------



## DIZ

I use my pex cutters (ones made by ridgid or lenox) to cut 1 1/2 ABS when doing finishing. Never any chards of ABS to clean up. I know there are other tools for this, just saying. Have worked with guys that use hacksaws and generate a lot of mess.


----------



## GREENPLUM

Christina said:


> Basket Strainers... Throw the putty out the door... try tub & tile caulk. Use a bead of tub & tile between the basket and the sink, tighten it up, reconnect the drain and wash all excess away. The soft bristle paint brush helps with washing the tub/tile caulk aways so you don't see a thing! No big gaps for water to set in! No leaks!


 
i GIVE THANKS FOR THAT :thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## futz

Christina said:


> Basket Strainers... Throw the putty out the door... try tub & tile caulk. Use a bead of tub & tile between the basket and the sink, tighten it up, reconnect the drain and wash all excess away. The soft bristle paint brush helps with washing the tub/tile caulk aways so you don't see a thing! No big gaps for water to set in! No leaks!





GREENPLUM said:


> i GIVE THANKS FOR THAT :thumbup::thumbup:


Oh... Don't do it. Just don't. I had idiot employees that did that - they thought they were SO smart. Can you say *leaks and callbacks!* The stuff doesn't dry properly (it's water resistant, not waterproof), water leaks in and turns it to rotting liquid muck and weeks or months later you have an unhappy callback with caulk and water dripping into the cabinet.

Use clear silicone or use the gaskets provided. If there's no garb you can use putty - I never do on K sinks anymore - I've seen too many puttied K sink strainers leak, mostly when there's a disposer involved (vibration).


----------



## DIZ

Never had a KS leak yet with putty(watch, now I will have one) Lots of PO's W/overflows have leaked though. Anyone got some sage advice on leaky PO's on a new install?


----------



## futz

DIZ said:


> Never had a KS leak yet with putty(watch, now I will have one)


You will. You probably already did, but they called someone else to fix it.



> Lots of PO's W/overflows have leaked though. Anyone got some sage advice on leaky PO's on a new install?


If your PO is all metal and has a fine-thread tailpiece, don't dope it or teflon it - use clear silicone on the threads and hand tighten (no pliers or wrenches needed). Wipe it clean and you will never ever have a leak there. Don't worry about getting it apart later - silicone is soft enough that it comes right out without a fight.

For the upper part with the wedge washer, I like to use a little La-Co PipeTite-Stik as thread-filler/lube under the washer. Sometimes those washers don't squeeze into the threads properly - a bit of lube helps the washer squirm into place easier, and a bit of filler prevents leaks if the washer doesn't completely get to the bottom of the threads all the way around.

When I was a young apprentice I did thousands and thousands of lavs (Moen 4600's and Waltec 33W540 PO's - I was the lav and copper waterpipe guy then) and sort of kept track in my head how many leaked with and without my Pipe-Stik trick. Without, about 1 out of 4 would drip and have to be fiddled with to make them stop. With Pipe-Stik I never ever got a leak unless the basin or the PO was defective.

PipeTite-Stik seems to be completely unknown to most young plumbers - it's *excellent* stuff - hard to find these days - I order a case at a time and stock it in the shop. Doesn't drip or make a mess - I use it on almost every thread (even gas pipe, when I forget the Masters Metallic at home(best gas pipe dope on the planet)), often with a couple wraps of teflon tape on top (not on gas pipe though). Keep a broken-in-half stick in every toolbox and you always have some pipe dope with you. It's really good for lubing compression stops, especially the sticky chrome ones, so they're not such a fight to tighten properly. Be careful with apprentices and doping compression stops though - they tend to grossly overtighten them when they're properly lubed.


----------



## Lifer

i wear a carpenter's tool pouch when roughing in .. glue in one pocket ( only one can here in Canada) , allaround strap in a pocket screws in a little front pocket measuring tape in the center one my tin snips and a marker or two and a pencil ... 

Also I do not use a hack saw , all my pipe gets cut with a Dewalt Cordless Recip... ( or lg pipe cutters on a final or repair no mess.. ) so I have a piece of 4" ABS cut at angles screwed ( i know your not aloud to alter a ladder ) to the side of my 6' ladder on one leg for the recip to go in and a 2" wye one the other for my 12 volt drill ....

I am very fast at rough-in and I learned / adopted all of this while doing piece work , so you had to be quick but correct to make the big coin ..



Lifer..


----------



## Optimus Primer

tired of wasting the straws that come with foam o fill. Right after you use it rinse it out with primer. good as new


----------



## plmb821

*Offset's*

Need to learn more about offset's; starting from the 1st to the last step, only class I did'nt do well in.:blink:


----------



## SlickRick

plmb821 said:


> Need to learn more about offset's; starting from the 1st to the last step, only class I did'nt do well in.:blink:


*Hello! Introduction Requested* 
An intro is requested from all new members. In case you missed it, here is the link. http://www.plumbingzone.com/f3/.

The PZ is for Plumbing Professionals ( those engaged in the plumbing profession)

Post an intro and tell our members where you are from, yrs in the trade, and your area(s) of expertise in the plumbing field.

This info helps members who are waiting to welcome you to the best plumbing site there is.

We look forward to your valuable input.
__________________


----------



## Master Mark

*X-MAS GIFT CARDS TO PEOPLE who help you*

With x-mas around the corner here is a tip

I have dont this off and on for years..

go out and spend some bucks on 25-- 40 dollar gift cards 
to some nice place to eat in your area...

then go to your local supply house and give them to your 
favorite counter guy that takes care of your orders every day..

it is a good way to be the *first one they think of* to call when 
they have a close out on a bunch of faucets or fittings, 
some scratch and dent water heater being sold for nothing, 
damaged stuff just being thrown away in the dumpster...

or some great killer deal ....you will be #1 on their list
..:yes::yes:


----------



## sheeptown44

I was thinking the same thing, except I didnt realize all the benefits. great tip


----------



## shakeyglenn68

RealLivePlumber said:


> I had to replace a lift and turn, tubular plastic waste and overflow. The die cast strainer had about rotted away, and the tangs inside were gone. Could not grab the shoe with pliers to twist it, very tight spot. No chance of cutting it off from underneath.
> 
> I heated up a putty knife with my torch, and used it to melt through the plastic shoe, then was able to wheel the shoe off the strainer by hand.:thumbsup: No chance of hurting the tub, either.
> 
> This also works well with those cheapo shower strainers.
> 
> Replaced it with a Wolverine 17 ga. trip lever


 Get a old car spring (70's model f-100 custon truck rear leaf springs are perfect for this). cut it to about 15" llong then grind one end down to fit inside the strainer, use a 14-18" pipe wrench to turn it with. Used this tool many times to remove old waste drains in manufactured homes (Tornadoe magnets). 

When using that inside cutter run it in reverse less chances of unscrewing the screw that holds the blade in, & if you cut through into concrete it wont dull your blade. I use a tilers grout spong for 3" or larger lines and a spong cut in half for 2" and less.

To remove hardened grout at the bottom of a tiled shower p-trap pour in meratic acid and wait 12 hours, return with a spear head on a k50 cable.
(used on pvc)

water closet tank bolts coat with wax before installing, helps prevent rusting of the bolts. I rarely use silicone on any of my plumbing projects stuff peels off too easy and leads to more problems down the road. silicone is for glass windows or to fill a womans breast.

Gator bites work well, I use the removable type, have put some to the serious strain test as well. 

Worst event ever happen was due to electrician error, grounded out a 600 volt power feed on 2" copper waterlines, unsoldiered every fitting in a 16 apartment completed, carpeted building. rained for 3 hours till someone discovered!


----------



## 2beaplumber

Seems that the cheap faucets lately have issues with the big threads on tailpiece. I always have to putty the bottom of the bowl as well to prevent water from following the threads out. Silicone works too, but when that same customer calls you back a year or so later to replace the same faucet cause of a lifetime finish warranty, it's a lot harder to remove silicone than old putty. Cause you know, they want the WHOLE thing replaced, not just the faucet.


----------



## 2beaplumber

As far as that tub drain, there is a tool that goes on a 3/8" ratchet that works well. As you turn to loosen, a set of teeth come out to bite in the inside of strainer. Kinda like an easy out.


----------



## subarustu

ha! i just used sharkbite caps for that same reason last week and when the contractor was pulling the cabinet he pulled the cap right off and flooded the place with hot water.


----------



## Eric

Here's my tricks:

-toilet that rocks from an uneven tile or crooked floor, or that subfoor has been cut way too big by someone earlier and no way to screw the flange down good. Also slab floors where it so difficult to screw a flange into. maybe some shims to get it where you want if needed, mix some plaster of paris in a small bowl and work it in the the base seam along the floor after setting the base down, use a damp sponge to clean off excess. After 20-minutes, toilet is rock hard to the floor and comes up easily if needed not like using caulk on it. Been doing this on some commercial repairs cause some toilets just seem to keep getting loose to the floor, even with a good flange and 5/16" bolts. 

- make your own inside pvc pipe cutter out of a cut off wheel and a section of 3/8" threaded rod with nuts and washers on each end of the wheel. can be what ever the lenght of rod needs to be, and much more durable than the small models you buy in the supply house. Great for a cracked flange and can't get to it from below. Inside pipe cutter to remove the bad flange, glue a coupling in the floor thru the opening from above and a new flange to finish it off. 

- Get a small leak on PVC on new install that is tough to replace.-in a tight spot- try this: Cap off open ends and attach a shop vac to one of the lav stub-outs, while the drainage system is under vacuum, apply pvc cleaner around the leaking joint and then the glue, gets sucked right into the fitting.

- We have been installing flange spacers under our toilet flanges on new installs or bathroom remodels to get the flange up to the correct height for the finish floor. Usually it's been 3/4" of spacers and then the flange. This way the flange is done on the rough, screwed well to the subfloor thru the spacers which are under the flange. The contractor will apply 1/2" hardibacker or cement board and then tile around the "raised flange" grout around to finish it off. The flange is at the perfect height and I don't have to hammer drill thru tile and grout to screw the flange down. Plus the flange is part of the pressure test and the knock out flange keeps anything from going down the line. So much easier than doing it later.


----------



## SCP Plumber

so why are plumbers using pipe dope on a flared p trap? first, its flared...if you installed everything "plumb" and level pipe dope is a non issue. 2nd, pipe dope on a p trap is a gauranteed broken fitting in 5 yrs when trying to break the joint free with channel locks. the pipe will snap before the joint. and the guy who putties and silicones every single piece of a pop up on a basin/lav drain? are you for real? lmao!!!! id have 12 drains done to your 1 and id still have no leaks because i did it right!!! wtf


----------



## Tommy plumber

shakeyglenn68 said:


> Get a old car spring (70's model f-100 custon truck rear leaf springs are perfect for this). cut it to about 15" llong then grind one end down to fit inside the strainer, use a 14-18" pipe wrench to turn it with. Used this tool many times to remove old waste drains in manufactured homes (Tornadoe magnets).
> 
> When using that inside cutter run it in reverse less chances of unscrewing the screw that holds the blade in, & if you cut through into concrete it wont dull your blade. I use a tilers grout spong for 3" or larger lines and a spong cut in half for 2" and less.
> 
> To remove hardened grout at the bottom of a tiled shower p-trap pour in meratic acid and wait 12 hours, return with a spear head on a k50 cable.
> (used on pvc)
> 
> water closet tank bolts coat with wax before installing, helps prevent rusting of the bolts. I rarely use silicone on any of my plumbing projects stuff peels off too easy and leads to more problems down the road. silicone is for glass windows or to fill a womans breast.
> 
> Gator bites work well, I use the removable type, have put some to the serious strain test as well.
> 
> Worst event ever happen was due to electrician error, grounded out a 600 volt power feed on 2" copper waterlines, unsoldiered every fitting in a 16 apartment completed, carpeted building. rained for 3 hours till someone discovered!


 



Or just use brass bolts. I carry a small magnet in my shirt pocket. While at supply house if the magnet sticks to closet bolts or tank bolts, then I won't buy them.


----------



## David Puckette

If it's got threads, Teflon paste it. It's cheaper than going back!


----------



## marc76075

a little trick for garbage disposals;

when trying to put the retaining ring on the sink flange, place a piece of cardboard over the sink flange then the garbage disposal on top. this gives you enough weight to push up on the ring and get it snap into place.


----------



## RealLivePlumber

..................unless you push too hard, knock the disposal over, dent the new $600.00 undermount sink....................

:no:


----------



## marc76075

it doesnt take that much force to put the ring on, plus you have to pull to the side, kinda, not straight up. I've done it thousands of times, i can get that ring on in a split second


----------



## Seabee1

And BEFORE and after going to the bathroom. Lol.


----------



## Seabee1

Ron said:


> Wash hands before you eat.


And BEFORE and after going to the bathroom.


----------



## SlickRick

Seabee1 said:


> And BEFORE and after going to the bathroom.


An intro is requested from all new members. In case you missed it, here is the link. http://www.plumbingzone.com/f3/.

The PZ is for Plumbing Professionals ( those engaged in the plumbing profession)

Post an intro and tell our members where you are from, yrs in the trade, and your area(s) of expertise in the plumbing field.

This info helps members who are waiting to welcome you to the best plumbing site there is.

We look forward to your valuable input.


----------



## Seabee1

SlickRick said:


> An intro is requested from all new members. In case you missed it, here is the link. http://www.plumbingzone.com/f3/.
> 
> The PZ is for Plumbing Professionals ( those engaged in the plumbing profession)
> 
> Post an intro and tell our members where you are from, yrs in the trade, and your area(s) of expertise in the plumbing field.
> 
> This info helps members who are waiting to welcome you to the best plumbing site there is.
> 
> We look forward to your valuable input.


Damn...and I thought Facebook stalkers were bad. LOL.


----------



## DIZ

Calibrate your pex crimpers


----------



## plumber27

i use silicone all the time it works great


----------



## plumber27

me too !


----------



## plumber27

rooterboy said:


> OK hear is my question. Do you put the teflon tape on first or the pipe dope ? I do not know if the UPC has an instillation standard on this ? I have always put on the tape so it was nice and tight in the threads than put on a little pipe dope on top of the Teflon tape. One of my buddies insisted I did it wrong and if I had worked for him I would be fired for doing this.


tephlon then pipe dope


----------



## plumber27

GREENPLUM said:


> I use 100% Clear Silcone, its instantly waterproof, clean up w/ denatured alcohol.


amen


----------



## U666A

Remember that when running steam boiler condensate lines and you are given 600# steel fittings and you discover both sched 40 and 80 pipe in the rack...

They just should've known better! :laughing:

What an expensive rework... Not only did they assemble about 10 lengths of the wrong pipe in an area which is now convoluted with other pipe and duct and wire and such, but the whole line is insulated c/w shoes that are seal welded longitudinally and guides welded to the supports, holding the shoes down......

Uh-Oh, Hot Dog!

I was running 1-1/2 S+R perimeter heating lines and I picked up a 21' length and thought, "holy sh!t this is heavy". All that was left was the 80. That's when I started asking the right people the right questions which led to the above discovery...

Never quite seen that particular foreman turn that particular hue before... :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:


----------



## Ironwood2011

Always keep a Fire Extinguisher on you when soldiering!


----------



## U666A

Ironwood2011 said:


> Always keep a Fire Extinguisher on you when soldiering!


That is not only a good tip, it is law around here...


----------



## Redwood

U666A said:


> That is not only a good tip, it is law around here...


I'm not sure if it is law here or not...
Some laws don't need to be written... :whistling2:

In addition try out some of the neat stuff we have available to us...

Lasco Cool Gel is good stuff and it works great! Spray it on and sweat away in close proximity to coated objects without charring. I saw a demo years ago where the rep coated a $100 bill then had me hold the torch flam on the bill. It did not burn!

Get yourself a Ceramic Fiber Flame Protector! Yea I know you have that piece of smoke pipe you use...:whistling2: It gets red hot pretty quick huh? That red hot is on both sides not just the one you are torching on. The ceramic fiber flame protector will be cold on the other side. Oatey makes one...

Yea torch safety... Never light the torch without a fire extinguisher next to you...

But try out some of these other things as well... They make your job easier and there is no excuse in this day and age for BBQing your work area... :no:


----------



## GREENPLUM

Amander said:


> Don't let your plumber use your bathroom!
> We had a plumber friend over to help with diagnosing a problem in the kitchen. After awhile he used our restroom. The next day we noticed the toilet leaking. Question is did he in all of his 350lb glory sabotage our toilet so that we'd have to call him back for more diagnostic or did he actually weigh so much that he compressed the wax ring seal? Well, it was the seal. :S


toilets sit on the floor and porcelain doesnt flex 

the man needed to use the toilet


----------



## Rudge500

*Polystyrene walls*

Hi, I am a plumber in Australia. The current trend here is to clad houses with polystyrene (3" thick) and then render them with concrete. Are they doing this in the states? I invented a fixing that will hold in the polystyrene, good for putting on downpipe brackets etc. would like to know if there is a market for them in the states.

John B


----------



## RealLivePlumber

No.


----------



## hroark2112

A couple that I've learned:

This one is one I've only used 2 or 3 times, but it's really saved my butt!! If you've got a PVC DWV joint that has a small drip when you're testing it, and it's in one of those really bad places where it's hard to just change out the fittings, break out your hot air gun and heat the fitting up, then apply more glue. Let the fitting cool down and dry, then re-test it. 

Second one was shown to me by a plumbing inspector in Seminole County, FL. I had a shower pan on a second floor that I could NOT get to stop leaking. I was to the point where I was going to just take it out & put a new pan in. As I was in between several choice words, the inspector shows up early. I was way frustrated, and this guy had a reputation for being a real hardass. He asked if I wanted to know his trick for fixing the leak, of course I had to say yes! He told me to drop the test, then take the clamping ring off, and put a bead of putty between the bottom of the pan and the shower drain base (I'm assuming silicone would work well for those of you who hate putty!), then reinstall the clamp. It worked like a champ, and I didn't have to replace the drain or the pan. Since then I've always used putty on my shower pans. (Only under the pan, not on the top because I don't want to clog the weepholes)

Oh, and the tip about taping glue & primer together...that one can cause problems with OSHA if you're on a commercial job. When you cover the label, you can't match the MSDS sheet to the glue & primer, and if you take the tape off, you'll take the label off. To get around this, use 2 zip-ties (one at the top of the can, one at the bottom) to hold the cans together, and it leaves the labels legible. You can also cut the zip-ties off if OSHA wants to see the whole label.


----------



## U666A

hroark2112 said:


> A couple that I've learned:
> 
> This one is one I've only used 2 or 3 times, but it's really saved my butt!! If you've got a PVC DWV joint that has a small drip when you're testing it, and it's in one of those really bad places where it's hard to just change out the fittings, break out your hot air gun and heat the fitting up, then apply more glue. Let the fitting cool down and dry, then re-test it.
> 
> Second one was shown to me by a plumbing inspector in Seminole County, FL. I had a shower pan on a second floor that I could NOT get to stop leaking. I was to the point where I was going to just take it out & put a new pan in. As I was in between several choice words, the inspector shows up early. I was way frustrated, and this guy had a reputation for being a real hardass. He asked if I wanted to know his trick for fixing the leak, of course I had to say yes! He told me to drop the test, then take the clamping ring off, and put a bead of putty between the bottom of the pan and the shower drain base (I'm assuming silicone would work well for those of you who hate putty!), then reinstall the clamp. It worked like a champ, and I didn't have to replace the drain or the pan. Since then I've always used putty on my shower pans. (Only under the pan, not on the top because I don't want to clog the weepholes)
> 
> Oh, and the tip about taping glue & primer together...that one can cause problems with OSHA if you're on a commercial job. When you cover the label, you can't match the MSDS sheet to the glue & primer, and if you take the tape off, you'll take the label off. To get around this, use 2 zip-ties (one at the top of the can, one at the bottom) to hold the cans together, and it leaves the labels legible. You can also cut the zip-ties off if OSHA wants to see the whole label.


You can actually buy a plastic fusion welding outfit. It uses compressed air with a built in regulator (3-5 psi if I recall) and you can purchase rods for whichever material you wish to weld. It is basically a heat gun with a 1/4" outlet so your heat is quite concentrated. Once you get both of the parent materials melting, start feeding your rod in (not unlike tig) and then you can use the back of the iron to tool the joint. Had to employ this trick several times at a high rise I worked on.

Closet flanges were cast in place, with a 6" X 6" X2" piece of styrofoam nailed down around it. Once the forms were stripped, the SF was chipped out, and a coupling was glued on. The top of the coupling was actually recessed into the small pocket in the slab. When there were leaks there, it spelled big trouble! Only way out was the plastic welding rig or this strange polymer glue/ silica filler sand substance that we tried once or twice.

The plastic welding rig saved my behind on more than one occasion.

Oh, and BTW, you need not neccesarilly buy plastic welding rod. Although somewhat tedious, you can use a grinder to cut strips out of a 1' piece of pipe as long as it is the same compound. In my case, it was sched 40 system 15 PVC with XFR compounding.

Hope it helps somebody out someday.

UA


----------



## suzie

Bill said:


> I chiped a fiberglass shower the other day when I nailed it in. Got some repair kit for it and tried it out. This stuff works great! Saves money buying a new shower stall!


 what type of repair kit mr. bill?


----------



## suzie

Redwood said:


> I'm not sure if it is law here or not...
> Some laws don't need to be written... :whistling2:
> 
> In addition try out some of the neat stuff we have available to us...
> 
> Lasco Cool Gel is good stuff and it works great! Spray it on and sweat away in close proximity to coated objects without charring. I saw a demo years ago where the rep coated a $100 bill then had me hold the torch flam on the bill. It did not burn!
> 
> Get yourself a Ceramic Fiber Flame Protector! Yea I know you have that piece of smoke pipe you use...:whistling2: It gets red hot pretty quick huh? That red hot is on both sides not just the one you are torching on. The ceramic fiber flame protector will be cold on the other side. Oatey makes one...
> 
> Yea torch safety... Never light the torch without a fire extinguisher next to you...
> 
> But try out some of these other things as well... They make your job easier and there is no excuse in this day and age for BBQing your work area... :no:


 love the cool gel I was introduced to it as an apprentice. there is some always in myurn ma van. I've brazed at hospitals inside white cabinets and no burn marks


----------



## Surrey Plumber

Great point made, silicone should only be used with fixtures.


----------



## BarriePlumbing

Wow, thanks for the simple yet very helpful tips. These tips can save a lot of time and wasted efforts! appreciate you sharing. As you learn more of these time saving tips - be sure to continue to share. It's always nice knowing the simple ways to get something done.


----------



## Airgap

A gob of wax(old or new) stuck on the end of some copper tubing (1/4") makes a good retrieval tool for a closet bolt dropped down a pipe....

It is assumed (know what they say) that this will work on other items.....Time may tell....


----------



## RealLivePlumber

Airgap said:


> A gob of wax(old or new) stuck on the end of some copper tubing (1/4") makes a good retrieval tool for a closet bolt dropped down a pipe....
> 
> It is assumed (know what they say) that this will work on other items.....Time may tell....




Bubble gum, also


----------



## Redwood

RealLivePlumber said:


> Bubble gum, also


Make sure you are done chewing on it if you are using it to get something out of a drain line....

It usually picks up a crappy flavor after that.... :yes:


----------



## The Watermen

Loxeal or Locktight on anything threaded, never failed me!


----------



## RealLivePlumber

Redwood said:


> Make sure you are done chewing on it if you are using it to get something out of a drain line....
> 
> It usually picks up a crappy flavor after that.... :yes:


 
Depends on how much of a man you are.:laughing:


----------



## SlickRick

Charge more and work less during "shiot it's hot" periods.


----------



## Widdershins

SlickRick said:


> Charge more and work less during "shiot it's hot" periods.


 We would soak our baseball caps in water when I was working in Mississippi and Louisiana.

Keeping the head cool can bring the body temp down by a few degrees.


----------



## Optimus Primer

If your pipe rack on the van is too high for you to reach so you can tie the pipe down, use one if those boat tie down things. Works great.


----------



## DesertOkie

I use a small rubber backed door mat for working under a sink. No boot marks or grease on the floor. Also feed buckets or pails work well, they are shorter and usually fit under p-traps. They are made very well, nothing sucks like having the plastic pan you used to clear out the pasta stuck in the disposal tee crack before you make it outside. I found them at tractor supply I would think any feed or ******* store would have them.


----------



## Optimus Primer

Nothing sucks more than taking the bucket of water from your ptrap then dumping it back down the sink.


----------



## Widdershins

house plumber said:


> Nothing sucks more than taking the bucket of water from your ptrap then dumping it back down the sink.


 Precisely the reason why I have two buckets.:laughing:


----------



## Optimus Primer

Widdershins said:


> Precisely the reason why I have two buckets.:laughing:


Ah, I see you've done that before.:laughing:


----------



## futz

DesertOkie said:


> Also feed buckets or pails work well, they are shorter and usually fit under p-traps. They are made very well...


If you have a friend with a pool you can have a steady supply of perfect plumbing buckets. Perfect size and high quality. Just ask - they're most likely throwing them away until you come along.

Another good source is electricians. Lots of their stuff comes in decent quality and right-size buckets. Not as good quality as the pool chem buckets, but good.


----------



## Widdershins

house plumber said:


> Ah, I see you've done that before.:laughing:


 Too many times to count.:yes:


----------



## Optimus Primer

Widdershins said:


> Too many times to count.:yes:


It seemed like such a great idea at the time.


----------



## Widdershins

house plumber said:


> It seemed like such a great idea at the time.


 I'm usually distracted and yacking on the phone.

You learn to compensate as you get older.


----------



## AllAces777

house plumber said:


> Nothing sucks more than taking the bucket of water from your ptrap then dumping it back down the sink.


This one had me belly laughing! :laughing:

Its really embarrassing when you do it right in front of the home owner!


----------



## Redwood

house plumber said:


> Ah, I see you've done that before.:laughing:


I'll admit it.... :yes:


----------



## Bayside500

house plumber said:


> Nothing sucks more than taking the bucket of water from your ptrap then dumping it back down the sink.


and i thought i was the only who ever did that LOL


----------



## Greenguy

Bread pans for baking makes a decent container for working on baseboard heaters slides right under most.


----------



## DesertOkie

house plumber said:


> Nothing sucks more than taking the bucket of water from your ptrap then dumping it back down the sink.


Or looking for your channel locks and remembering they are at the bottom of your full bucket..


----------



## Redwood

Jack Lombardi said:


> http://spam link.com/
> Whenever you need an emergency plumber in the Joliet area,you can rely on Spamin plumber services Go Green to be there any time. Even in the middle of the night,our 24 hour emergency plumbers make it easier to have a plumber at your door within the hour. All of our emergency plumbing calls are always answered in person and by our professionally trained staff so you can be sure your problem is diagnosed quickly and efficiently,saving you time and minimal damage to your property.
> spamin Services-Go Green of Joliet can usually get an cerfied plumber to you within 45 minutes or less. Appointments are also accepted. We cover the whole Joliet and will county area,so help is not far away. Our 24 hour emergency services cover all emergency plumbing,sewer and drainage.


Can you come over and auger my toilet?

I'm to lazy to go down to my truck and get mine....

It should only take you a minute.... :laughing:


----------



## GREENPLUM

Dont hire anyone off craigslist


----------



## abudgetplumb

we use what ever grout the tile guys are using to trim(caulk)out our wc's


----------



## Abel Plumber

Always keep a magic eraser on the truck, those damn things get anything off.

Customer wont pay? Take one of your wifes pantyhose insert them into the outside sewer cleanout then fill them with quikrete.


----------



## Tommy plumber

Abel Plumber said:


> Always keep a magic eraser on the truck, those damn things get anything off.
> 
> Customer wont pay? Take one of your wifes pantyhose insert them into the outside sewer cleanout then fill them with quikrete.


----------



## The Watermen

Take note!

when putting in pans or sinks or using silicone in general have a squirty bottle with some soapy water in it nearby. Cut your nozzle on a 45 degree and sized to the gap you need to fill. Run a bead around forcing the silicone into gap with controlled release. once applicated, spray soapy water all around the work area, and with a gloved hand wet the tip of your finger (spit works well I find but only with sanitized) and with a clean rag in the off hand remove the excess silicone. you will be surprised how easy it is and how much it bonds the units to their surface. it is the ultimate time saver and Job well done with perfect finish, white or clear, looks lovely. Ps don't use water based caulk


----------



## user4

I make pans out of lead, and Windex will remove silicone with absolutely no problem.


----------



## The Watermen

Killertoiletspider said:


> I make pans out of lead, and Windex will remove silicone with absolutely no problem.


was talking about toilet bowls (pans) and soapy water works well on "unset silicone"


----------



## plbgbiz

house plumber said:


> Nothing sucks more than taking the bucket of water from your ptrap then dumping it back down the sink.


Oh yeah...me too.


----------



## bartnc37

Have a spare hackzall:furious:


----------



## plumberps

I never using silicon,but if you use it then very carefully.


Plumbers Solihull


----------



## Mississippiplum

When using silicone to calk around objects or to install basket strainers, etc I have a role of paper towels under one arm and use my free hand to smooth the caulk down with a paper towel this way there is no mess and a you will have a clean joint 

When using putty, well I can't help you there cause I don't use it 

I use great white thread sealant ( made by oaty ) doesnt dry out and crack, and lubricates the threads letting the joint go together smoother, I don't use Teflon tape. Never use teflon on any type of PVC related threaded joint it adds bulk to the male threads and when tightened can crack a female PVC adapter quicker then you can say son ofa $&@! 

When painting PVC use a spray paint designed for plastics regular spray paints have laquors that can weaken the pipe like sun will do. 

When ajusting a pressure switch look on the inside of the lid it will say how many turns of the differential and high end post nuts equal 1 psi of pressure change for each


----------



## Greenguy

bartnc37 said:


> Have a spare hackzall:furious:


Up here we call him the apprentice, teach him right and he will clean up properly when the job is done. 

Keep a roll of painters tape on board makes for safer hanging of Polly and less clean up at the end, also makes nice clean lines when caulking.


----------



## MikeS

I have a couple:

When removing old galvanized nipples, slide an inside pipe tool or an EZ-Out into the pipe so your pipe wrench doesn't flatten out the pipe.

Out here in CA, we have lots of soldered on hose bibbs. They always seem to be right up next to the wall. Usually stucco. You have to take out a little bit of the stucco so you can see the 90 inside. Then, use a hacksaw to cut thru the bibb before the spot where the seat is. Now, the trapped water is drained, and you can use your torch and a pair of channel locks to remove whats left of the bibb. Clean it up real good and solder on a MIP so the next guy doesn't have to.


----------



## Mississippiplum

I got a tip.
When demoing PVC a sledge hammer swung on the fitting socket/hubs for larger pipe works wonders they will crack and the sections of pipe can be easily removed.
on smaller diameter PVC or cpvc a hammer works wonders also. hit the fitting hub/socket and it will bust just as easy allowing easy removal. this may sound silly but it saves blades and time required to cut the pipe up. Just ware eye protection(a must)


----------



## DesertOkie

Bring extra pex rings when crawling under a house. The two sided buckets the cleaning ladies use work great under houses, 1 side for primer/glue or pex and the other for tools.


----------



## Plumberman

Mississippiplum said:


> I got a tip.
> When demoing PVC a sledge hammer swung on the fitting socket/hubs for larger pipe works wonders they will crack and the sections of pipe can be easily removed.
> on smaller diameter PVC or cpvc a hammer works wonders also. hit the fitting hub/socket and it will bust just as easy allowing easy removal. this may sound silly but it saves blades and time required to cut the pipe up. Just ware eye protection(a must)


Nothing like slinging shrapnel all over your face and body.

That's retarded.


----------



## U666A

Plumberman said:


> Nothing like slinging shrapnel all over your face and body.
> 
> That's retarded.


:stupid:
With all the advancements in engineering, science and 
technology...

It amazes me that, STILL, to this 
day...

All of the doctors, in all of the 
world...

CAN'T FIX STUPID!!!!!!


----------



## Mississippiplum

Plumberman said:


> Nothing like slinging shrapnel all over your face and body.
> 
> That's retarded.


It doesn't sling a whole lot If you do it right.


----------



## Mississippiplum

If you go swinging like yur trying to drive a railroad spike yea you are gonna get hurt, but a light tap is all it takes in most cases, especially on cpvc, or PVC that sun has been shining on for years.


----------



## BROOKLYN\PLUMB

Mississippiplum said:


> If you go swinging like yur trying to drive a railroad spike yea you are gonna get hurt, but a light tap is all it takes in most cases, especially on cpvc, or PVC that sun has been shining on for years.


I don't get the problem that's how I demo C. I. 
Is pvc more or less dangerous? I'm tempted to go buy some and smash it (I hate it anyway)


----------



## Mississippiplum

U666A said:


> :stupid:
> With all the advancements in engineering, science and
> technology...
> 
> It amazes me that, STILL, to this
> day...
> 
> All of the doctors, in all of the
> world...
> 
> CAN'T FIX STUPID!!!!!!


Have you tried demoing PVC like I sugested before? just because you think it's stupid doesn't mean it is. you have your opinion and I have mine and I respect that.


----------



## Bayside500

Mississippiplum said:


> It doesn't sling a whole lot If you do it right.


i know a plumber who lost an eye chipping PVC out of a fitting, not sure if he wore safety glasses or not, but what about the other tradesman around the job, surely if i saw someone doing that, i would ***** them out.

or how about if a piece of PVC sticks in your cheeck, forehead, leg or arm, just think how sharp that stuff is and the energy that it has flying through the air.

way back in the day, someone i worked with used to take a hammer to the 4" PVC riser that was above slab for a WC, instead of sawzalling it off, he would just slam it at the slab, one day a piece of PVC stuck him in the leg, right through his pants.


----------



## Mississippiplum

BROOKLYN\PLUMB said:


> I don't get the problem that's how I demo C. I.
> Is pvc more or less dangerous? I'm tempted to go buy some and smash it (I hate it anyway)


I don't get the problem either, as long as you are careful it's no problem just like demoing any other piping material like CI, Id imagine CI would produce some dangerous shrapnel if it's not demoed properly with care using a sledge. as long as the sledge isnt wailed right into the middle of PVC or at a joint it's no problem, we demo PVC by accurately taping it at the joints with a sledge and never had any injuries. Just like CI is demoed by hitting the hubs accurately with a sledge


----------



## MikeS

I wouldn't like picking up all the little pieces.


----------



## Mississippiplum

Bayside500 said:


> i know a plumber who lost an eye chipping PVC out of a fitting, not sure if he wore safety glasses or not, but what about the other tradesman around the job, surely if i saw someone doing that, i would ***** them out.
> 
> or how about if a piece of PVC sticks in your cheeck, forehead, leg or arm, just think how sharp that stuff is and the energy that it has flying through the air.
> 
> way back in the day, someone i worked with used to take a hammer to the 4" PVC riser that was above slab for a WC, instead of sawzalling it off, he would just slam it at the slab, one day a piece of PVC stuck him in the leg, right through his pants.




we wouldnt do something like that, we wear eye protection and lightly tap the joint and never had any problems, we dont hit it so hard to where it shaters into 1000 violently flying pieces, but i can see where you are coming from. now wailing the sledge it will cause some injuries, but a light tap is all it takes.


----------



## DesertOkie

Did you guys hear about drilling a hole in glass with an AK? Perfect for a shower arm.


----------



## Mississippiplum

DesertOkie said:


> Did you guys hear about drilling a hole in glass with an AK? Perfect for a shower arm.


 
lol i read that thread :laughing:


----------



## The Watermen

Plumberman said:


> Nothing like slinging shrapnel all over your face and body.
> 
> That's retarded.


Down under we clear blocked drains with plastic explosive, i'm sure you yankies use nukes as it seems like the fix all in your movies.


----------



## #1 n the #2 Biz

^^^^^^ Really I'm from Texas and have lived her my entire life really getting tired of the stigma of the stupid southerner jokes I know your just being sarcastic but don't piss off the yanks to bring on more stupid slow southerner jokes


----------



## Plumberman

The Watermen said:


> Down under we clear blocked drains with plastic explosive, i'm sure you yankies use nukes as it seems like the fix all in your movies.


For someone who thinks our government killed all those people on 9/11 you sure are in tune with what goes on in this free country.

Don't think for a second that we haven't forgot what you said...


----------



## plbgbiz

Mississippiplum said:


> I don't get the problem either, as long as you are careful it's no problem just like demoing any other piping material like CI....


Because PVC is lighter and shatters into sharper pieces it is more dangerous than hammering CI. Just because many of us have done it (and probably much worse)...that doesn't make it a safe practice.


----------



## BROOKLYN\PLUMB

The Watermen said:


> Down under we clear blocked drains with plastic explosive, i'm sure you yankies use nukes as it seems like the fix all in your movies.


It's definitely how this Yankee wants to fix you


----------



## Mississippiplum

Plumberman said:


> For someone who thinks our government killed all those people on 9/11 you sure are in tune with what goes on in this free country.
> 
> Don't think for a second that we haven't forgot what you said...


I read that 9/11 thread and I won't never froget what was said, I love America, and anyone who talks bad about the USA doesnt know doodly-squat, people who accuse our government of evil on 9/11 don't know jack and are idiots and I'm not afraid to say that.


----------



## AlbacoreShuffle

*Plumbing Tip*


----------



## Mississippiplum

AlbacoreShuffle said:


> Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVdzP53X9vw&feature=related


Plumber crack tips! :laughing:


----------



## sbic

*help!*

I've had a stubborn clog for a while and used google to find some ideas on how to fix it (not a smart idea..) Well someone said to take off the over flow cover and stick a hanger with a small hook on the end down the hole and try to pull out what might be causing the clog.. so I took the cover off and when I tried to pull the hanger back up.. IT WAS STUCK! It's hooked onto something about three or four inches down and I can't get to it! Help please


----------



## Airgap

sbic said:


> I've had a stubborn clog for a while and used google to find some ideas on how to fix it (not a smart idea..) Well someone said to take off the over flow cover and stick a hanger with a small hook on the end down the hole and try to pull out what might be causing the clog.. so I took the cover off and when I tried to pull the hanger back up.. IT WAS STUCK! It's hooked onto something about three or four inches down and I can't get to it! Help please


 
Call a Licensed Plumber in your area......or

Thanks for posting on PlumbingZone.com. The Moderators of this forum would prefer if you post Do It Yourself related topics on our sister site www.DIYChatroom.com 

PlumbingZone.com is designed for professional plumbers to discuss issues and topics related to their profession. Many of our plumbers are also members at DIYChatroom.com and are looking forward to assist you with your needs.

Please take a moment to post your question at www.DIYChatroom.com If your not already a member of DIYChatroom.com you can sign up for a free account by going to http://www.diychatroom.com/register.php/


----------



## BROOKLYN\PLUMB

sbic said:


> I've had a stubborn clog for a while and used google to find some ideas on how to fix it (not a smart idea..) Well someone said to take off the over flow cover and stick a hanger with a small hook on the end down the hole and try to pull out what might be causing the clog.. so I took the cover off and when I tried to pull the hanger back up.. IT WAS STUCK! It's hooked onto something about three or four inches down and I can't get to it! Help please


So your tip is don't use a hanger to unclog a drain 
Great advice thanks


----------



## U666A

BROOKLYN\PLUMB said:


> So your tip is don't use a hanger to unclog a drain
> Great advice thanks


Really?!? That's not at all how I interpreted it! :laughing:

I read the tip as "when life throws you a challenge, go to the interweb to seek someone to clean up the mess you've made..."

:jester:


----------



## Mississippiplum

sbic said:


> I've had a stubborn clog for a while and used google to find some ideas on how to fix it (not a smart idea..) Well someone said to take off the over flow cover and stick a hanger with a small hook on the end down the hole and try to pull out what might be causing the clog.. so I took the cover off and when I tried to pull the hanger back up.. IT WAS STUCK! It's hooked onto something about three or four inches down and I can't get to it! Help please


just plain :stupid:


----------



## Plumberman

U666A said:


> :laughing:
> "Redundancy department; department of redundancy"
> :laughing:


---


----------



## DesertOkie

Were you using a metal hanger? If so I would try a plastic one to get the metal one out.


----------



## bricklayer

*bricklayer needs plumbing help!!!!!*

how do I replace a rotten steel drain pipe (under bathroom vanity) that runs horizontally through the wall and downward to my unfinished basement???This pipe needs to be replaced but i have no access i have 2 pictures i can send..please help!!


----------



## Redwood

bricklayer said:


> how do I replace a rotten steel drain pipe (under bathroom vanity) that runs horizontally through the wall and downward to my unfinished basement???This pipe needs to be replaced but i have no access i have 2 pictures i can send..please help!!


Calling a plumber will git r done...
Easy peasy...


----------



## U666A

Redwood said:


> Calling a plumber will git r done...
> Easy peasy...


That's so weird Red! I had a strange feeling that he was NOT a plumber also! :laughing:

Maybe SR's pooch can give him a few tips on how to tackle it...


----------



## ChrisConnor

sbic said:


> I've had a stubborn clog for a while and used google to find some ideas on how to fix it (not a smart idea..) Well someone said to take off the over flow cover and stick a hanger with a small hook on the end down the hole and try to pull out what might be causing the clog.. so I took the cover off and when I tried to pull the hanger back up.. IT WAS STUCK! It's hooked onto something about three or four inches down and I can't get to it! Help please



Aha, well, therein lies your problem, you shoulda used Yahoo.


----------



## Dun' Right

bricklayer said:


> how do I replace a rotten steel drain pipe (under bathroom vanity) that runs horizontally through the wall and downward to my unfinished basement???This pipe needs to be replaced but i have no access i have 2 pictures i can send..please help!!


 tape, superglue and/or epoxy (the more the better), flashlight. The three tools for success.


----------



## Redwood

Use that stuff Billy Mays was selling... :thumbup:


----------



## Mississippiplum

Duck tape, flashlight, and a 6ft ladder.


----------



## robert d

ncplumber said:


> I'm crazy about lavatory drains, haaate callbacks! so I put dope (Rectorseal T+2) on the top of the rubber cone washer, putty between the bottom of the washer and the friction washer, putty under the trim piece in the basin, dope on the threads at the trim piece and the tailpiece threads, and dope the beveled surface on all connections of the trap - tightening the middle nut first then the tailpiece connection then the wallpiece connection all hand tight first then a final +/- 1/8 turn with the channellocks.
> 
> Crazy, but I have almost zero leaks on drains. :blink:


 Dido I do the same on the bottom mac washer and it seems to make a diffenence on drips.


----------



## leighmac

Riobel cartridge problem


----------



## plbgbiz

leighmac said:


> Riobel cartridge problem


www.diychatroom.com


----------



## Tommy plumber

Here's a tip: don't bet on slow horses....

That should qualify as a 'plumbing tip' since it's coming from a plumber.


----------



## sidekick

I've applied them both. I say stay with your confidenent application. I know at times with the lest expensive items and talking cheap it seems that silicone works best. as for teflyon tape Im not a fan and dont have that confidence I will always back it up with paste. and as the putty thats my goto choice. I will even use it on my p-traps on those locking nuts. I to dont like call backs either, my percentage rate of any call backs is quite high, using this tip.

"Starting out to make money is the greatest mistake in life. Do what you feel you have flair for doing, and if your good enough at it , the money will come". Greer Garson


----------



## sidekick

are you in a clean out on a lateral, or a stack?. is this a residtial of commercial?. What size of access do yopu have?. Remenber this hint your customer probaly has a hanger and a plunger around never use these two items. Ther calling for your professionalism


----------



## Peterd

Mike Jessome said:


> Silicone anything you teflon, put a beed of silicon on waste and over flows silicone po plugs throw away that putty use silicone, just don't forget to wipe away the excess.


I agree


----------



## RealLivePlumber

Time to lock this thread down.:yes:


----------



## plumberpnx

According to me, if you are thinking to repair with yourself then this is not a good idea. For this you need heavy duty machinery which are normally found with the plumbers only. I think hiring a contractor could be cheaper because you can damage other part while repairing yourself.


----------



## rocksteady

plumberpnx said:


> According to me, if you are thinking to repair with yourself then this is not a good idea. For this you need heavy duty machinery which are normally found with the plumbers only. I think hiring a contractor could be cheaper because you can damage other part while repairing yourself.


 
Huh? :huh:








Paul


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

plumberpnx said:


> According to me, if you are thinking to repair with yourself then this is not a good idea. For this you need heavy duty machinery which are normally found with the plumbers only. I think hiring a contractor could be cheaper because you can damage other part while repairing yourself.


Not to be rude but is English your first language ??


----------



## DUNBAR PLUMBING

Sig line says it all. Some tard following strongest keywords, writing nonsense to blend into the content and never seen again.

Most times written to create a reaction from forum members... lack of moderation always leaves the spam links tied to the site. That's their goal.


----------



## Dun' Right

Needing to run a drain from a clean out that has head pressure above it? Save yourself a "drenching" and drill a small hole in the clean out and catch the water in a bucket. After it's drained down and you run the drain/sewer, just install a new clean out plug. 

Running a kitchen sink with separate waste outlets? Run it from the top one so you can A. See if you opened the line by running water with your cable still in it. B. It will wash the grease and nasty off your cable. If your battling a sludge clog, running water while your cable is spinning usually works the sludge out. 


A roll of trash bags can be a plumbers best friend. 
Pulling a nasty toilet? Bag that sucker before you get down there and get friendly with it. 

Running a drain under a cabinet? Put a trash bag down to try to minimize the mess. 

Climbing under a nasty cabinet? It's alot nicer to lay on a trash bag then on the nasty cabinet floor. 

Put your toilet auger or plunger in a trash bag after you unclog a toilet. No customer wants to see you walking out of their house with a drippy tool. 

Need to put a fixture out of order? Tape a trash bag over it. They'll get the idea. 

I usually take a trash bag with me in on any sewer/drain call. Whatever I do with it, I can put my used gloves, roots or anything foreign that I don't want to get friendly with in the bag when I leave. I can't tell you how many times I run a sewer from somebody's basement, only to find the roots laying on the floor from the previous plumber. 

Have to stick your hand into a nasty situation? Put your arm in a trash bag. You can go shoulder deep.


----------



## Turd Chaser

Ron said:


> Some might know how this is done but for you that don't, to replace a fluidmaster fillvalve quickly in 10 sec, here is a tip, below the float cup is a plastic ring, pull it upward, now the entire assembly will pull straight off, now do the same with the new one, push it on the shank, and reset the plastic ring, tank water level adjustment can be accomplished the same way, there you have it, you don't even have to take all the water out of the tank, just shut the water off.


 

I've done the exact same for years, however, before I install the new one, I turn on the angle stop with my hand over the fill valve shank. This will help blast anything out of the old pipes. I seem to work on many water pressure issues (old galvonized pipe) I am always finding rust in the bottom of my fill valves.


----------



## calliesparks

Don't flush a tissue paper.


----------



## easttexasplumb

calliesparks said:


> Don't flush a tissue paper.


 

http://www.plumbingzone.com/f3/why-post-intro-11368/


----------



## U666A

calliesparks said:


> Don't flush a tissue paper.


Good to know! Thanks so much!!!

The weirdest thing is, I had my hand on the jiggly handle thingy, (that makes my deuces go away most of the time) with the bowl full to the rim with "a tissue paper" when I read this!!! 

Man you saved my life! To whom should I make the cheque payable to???

:Whistling2:


----------



## Plumberman

U666A said:


> Good to know! Thanks so much!!!
> 
> The weirdest thing is, I had my hand on the jiggly handle thingy, (that makes my deuces go away most of the time) with the bowl full to the rim with "a tissue paper" when I read this!!!
> 
> Man you saved my life! To whom should I make the cheque payable to???
> 
> :Whistling2:


Clear your inbox!!!


----------



## HOMER

hot side shower stem washers not lasting too long ?(or basin stems)

given up on those green gator skin washers ?


try installing hard plastic stem washer(red) on hot side only....

they seem to oulast standard neoprene and gatorskin washers in hot water.


(this is the plumbing tips thread....right ?)


----------



## paulanderson

Using Silicon for anything connected to water never has been a very good idea. Silicon has the tendency to leach into the water system..


----------



## Dun' Right

I've had a few grid strainers that were draining really, really slow. I wound up taking a drill bit that was just a little bit bigger then the holes in the strainer, and drilling each little hole out. It worked, and the sink drained great. 

Next time your getting ready to replace a grid strainer, because it's draining too slow, give this a try first. It works.


----------



## Titan Plumbing

paulanderson said:


> Using Silicon for anything connected to water never has been a very good idea. Silicon has the tendency to leach into the water system..


More or less than all the lead still in our system?


----------



## drain docs

*so true*



ncplumber said:


> I'm crazy about lavatory drains, haaate callbacks! so I put dope (Rectorseal T+2) on the top of the rubber cone washer, putty between the bottom of the washer and the friction washer, putty under the trim piece in the basin, dope on the threads at the trim piece and the tailpiece threads, and dope the beveled surface on all connections of the trap - tightening the middle nut first then the tailpiece connection then the wallpiece connection all hand tight first then a final +/- 1/8 turn with the channellocks.
> 
> Crazy, but I have almost zero leaks on drains. :blink:


Back while doing installs years ago I overkilled in that area too but it works.


----------



## The Watermen

Hows the NDAA going fellas


----------



## U666A

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Back again eh?

I'll release the hounds...

I know Kung Fu!


----------



## Airgap

The Watermen said:


> Hows the NDAA going fellas


This is a thread for Plumbing tips, which is easy to understand...Keep it on topic or don't bother...


----------



## The Watermen

sorry i hope all goes well any how


----------



## U666A

Hey AG... could we possibly overlook the rules on name-calling and personal attacks, just for a few???

C'mon! This idiot is solely a glutton for controversy, and nothing more. 

Also, as his (read: their) handle is pluralized, and has openly admitted to representing more than one individual per username, he is in fact breaching the rules himself, is he not?

I know Kung Fu!


----------



## user8031

When it is cold out and you are doing new construction, just remember- The heat is in the tools boys!!


----------



## slevin0237

*Helper needs help*

I am looking for the formula used to find the distance between a combo and a wye... I am an apprentice/helper working for a pretty good sized company in south florida....Unfortunatly the company has descided to cut cost in labor and they have got a bunch of *jackleg plumbers*.... I am unable to learn anything of value from them...We are doing ground rough right now and they all just *eyeball* or hold fittings up and try to measure distance and just get it close...Needless to say we have a good supply of hammerdrills and concrete bits for the *chipping* we or probably I will be doing....Now I have a good bit of pipefitting experience so I am not totally green...Anyway , QUESTION , coming off the trunkline , I have a toilet at 5ft from the centerline and 1ft off the wall...lets say the branch runs at 10ft ... I'll hit the toilet by closet bend coming off the 45 on the wye and continue the run to the lav , stack , tub ect.... How do I figure where to put the wye along that first run using *MATH & NOT* laying the fittings down and eyeballing....How do I figure that first lenght of pipe...:blink:


----------



## Airgap

slevin0237 said:


> I am looking for the formula used to find the distance between a combo and a wye... I am an apprentice/helper working for a pretty good sized company in south florida....Unfortunatly the company has descided to cut cost in labor and they have got a bunch of *jackleg plumbers*.... I am unable to learn anything of value from them...We are doing ground rough right now and they all just *eyeball* or hold fittings up and try to measure distance and just get it close...Needless to say we have a good supply of hammerdrills and concrete bits for the *chipping* we or probably I will be doing....Now I have a good bit of pipefitting experience so I am not totally green...Anyway , QUESTION , coming off the trunkline , I have a toilet at 5ft from the centerline and 1ft off the wall...lets say the branch runs at 10ft ... I'll hit the toilet by closet bend coming off the 45 on the wye and continue the run to the lav , stack , tub ect.... How do I figure where to put the wye along that first run using *MATH & NOT* laying the fittings down and eyeballing....How do I figure that first lenght of pipe...:blink:


If you think this is a question for the "Plumbing tips" thread, you may never get the math part figured out....

I would suggest moseying over to the Introductions area for starters, then we can get to know you a bit before the magic can happen...

Heck, with a proper intro, I may even give this question it's own thread...That will depend on my mood of course, and wether or not the guys and gals feel you are in the pipe trades or not...

Thanks...


----------



## damnplumber

DownHill said:


> Plastic shoe storage box. About $1.00. Put your FluidMaster changing tools and a rag in there. Dump everything on the floor. Water off, flush, remove Fluidmaster and catch the water with it. Catches that extra gallon held by old Am. Stds.
> 
> Found it to be a better way than sucking it out or trying to rag it off.


 
I pre adjust the Fluidmaster first and have it ready to go with seal in place,
push down on the old one when loosining the nut
put your left palm under the inlet and as you quickly pull it up, seal the water with your palm and push the new one back in the hole
I rarely loose but a drop or two and don't have to hassle with a drip pan and getting all the water out


----------



## thepmac

I just learnt a new tip that I thought I had to share, when you get fibreglass insulation fibres on your skin, nail polish remover gets rid of them amazingly well. Just pour some on a paper towel and apply to effected area and it apparently dissolves the fibreglass and gets rid of the itch. I don't know how, but I know it works!


----------



## OldSchool

thepmac said:


> I just learnt a new tip that I thought I had to share, when you get fibreglass insulation fibres on your skin, nail polish remover gets rid of them amazingly well. Just pour some on a paper towel and apply to effected area and it apparently dissolves the fibreglass and gets rid of the itch. I don't know how, but I know it works!


Best thing is wash with cold water. This way it does not get into the pours of your skin.

Sent from my portable office....yes I am at work


----------



## jnohs

This is actually a cool post. Let me rattle off a few...
Take apart r19 before soldering
solder male and female adaptors before installing
keep pvc glue and primer away from your feet and close the top allways
use the letters on the pvc to use as a gide of where to cut when measuring
use regular insulation as a heat shield behind pipe when soldering. You will be amazed how good a thin strip will protect wood from burns
Always have a spry bottle for the one time you need it in your career when something goes on fire or is just very hot and a little precautionary water can help calm your nerves
use 50/50 on heat pipe fixes
when replacing baseboard have a shop vac to get ALL the water imadatiallly!
crimp copper fittings before soldering to help maintain positioning
instead of using a fern-co all the time, unscrew the pipe and install a male adapter.
be sure to drink your oveltene
work on the books, if your current job is off the books leave and get an on the books job so when it come time to get licensed it is easy, I had to wait 10 years and jump through hoops because of my short shortsightedness.
allays use structo-lite, a lot of tubs now say not to use cement products because it doesn't provide enough bonding. I say that is fine because I am not looking for bonding I am looking for support, witch is what the structo-lite provides. especially on a cast iron tub otherwise with the sheer weight on the little back feet it will settle.
dont give cheap estimates!!!! stick to your guns, and once you have the job for the good price do everything you can to get the job done now, at any cost except quality.

dont keep hammer and other hard objects on top ladders.


----------



## SHAUN C

When you have to unsweat a cap that isnt stubbed out far enough to get your cutters on, put a screw in the center of the cap then pull on it with your plyers while unsweating the cap. I've won a few bets with that one :thumbsup: just be easy or you'll pull the screw out


----------



## Adamche

kellybhutchings said:


> how do you clean excess silicone. I am talking about silicone not tub and tile caulk.


Use soapy water spray( make sure it has plenty of liquid detergent). Run the silicone bead hard into the joint, spray and smooth off with your finger Bazinga!


----------



## marionkyplumber

Denatured alcohol is the **** for silicone put down the silicone and wipe looks awesome


----------



## mccmech

marionkyplumber said:


> Denatured alcohol is the **** for silicone put down the silicone and wipe looks awesome


Will it look as crisp as a Phoenoseal joint wiped nice & tight with a sponge?


----------



## NYC Plumber

jnohs said:


> This is actually a cool post. Let me rattle off a few...
> Take apart r19 before soldering
> solder male and female adaptors before installing
> keep pvc glue and primer away from your feet and close the top allways
> use the letters on the pvc to use as a gide of where to cut when measuring
> use regular insulation as a heat shield behind pipe when soldering. You will be amazed how good a thin strip will protect wood from burns
> Always have a spry bottle for the one time you need it in your career when something goes on fire or is just very hot and a little precautionary water can help calm your nerves
> use 50/50 on heat pipe fixes
> when replacing baseboard have a shop vac to get ALL the water imadatiallly!
> crimp copper fittings before soldering to help maintain positioning
> instead of using a fern-co all the time, unscrew the pipe and install a male adapter.
> be sure to drink your oveltene
> work on the books, if your current job is off the books leave and get an on the books job so when it come time to get licensed it is easy, I had to wait 10 years and jump through hoops because of my short shortsightedness.
> allays use structo-lite, a lot of tubs now say not to use cement products because it doesn't provide enough bonding. I say that is fine because I am not looking for bonding I am looking for support, witch is what the structo-lite provides. especially on a cast iron tub otherwise with the sheer weight on the little back feet it will settle.
> dont give cheap estimates!!!! stick to your guns, and once you have the job for the good price do everything you can to get the job done now, at any cost except quality.
> 
> dont keep hammer and other hard objects on top ladders.


This guy is such a freakin joke.
http://www.residentialconstructionservices.net/

Use insulation as a heat shield??? Wtf man??
Biggest wannabe i have ever seen in my life.


----------



## Mississippiplum

NYC Plumber said:


> This guy is such a freakin joke.
> http://www.residentialconstructionservices.net/
> 
> Use insulation as a heat shield??? Wtf man??
> Biggest wannabe i have ever seen in my life.


I just use a piece of styrofoam, seems to work the best, just make sure to have a "spry bottle" nearby lol

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


----------



## Plumber71

No ! The best is " use the PVC letters to cut and measure ..... Holy Chittttttttt 
Lol


----------



## NYC Plumber

Plumber71 said:


> No ! The best is " use the PVC letters to cut and measure ..... Holy Chittttttttt
> Lol


Lol classic!


----------



## Mississippiplum

Plumber71 said:


> No ! The best is " use the PVC letters to cut and measure ..... Holy Chittttttttt
> Lol


That's why all his drains are backpitched lmao

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


----------



## Tommy plumber

NYC Plumber said:


> This guy is such a freakin joke.
> http://www.residentialconstructionservices.net/
> 
> Use insulation as a heat shield??? Wtf man??
> Biggest wannabe i have ever seen in my life.


 







I'm glad he posted all those useful tips, I have been doing it all wrong.......:laughing:



"take apart R19 before soldering", huh, I didn't know that. I was wondering why I was burning up the washer on the stem on those sweat stops.
http://www.brasscraft.com/PDF/400.76_R1B.09.19.39_Multi-Turn_Angle_Stop_Sweat_x_Compr.pdf


----------



## Plumber71

I been sitting here thinking !!!! This guy has to be made up , put on here for a reason . Please tell me I am right !!!! Because this guy is going for his license .... Wow 

This a joke !! Ha ha ha ... Right ? Lol


----------



## Tommy plumber

Maybe he really is a plumber and going for his master's license. Some people work for a company for years and get stuck doing the same tasks over and over without learning new things. 

I knew a guy that did service plumbing for years and never set a bathtub. He also never did a shower pan install, yet he called himself a plumber. Maybe people should lighten up a little on this guy. He might be legit with a master working for him and all until he gets his license. Just sayin'.


----------



## NYC Plumber

Tommy plumber said:


> Maybe he really is a plumber and going for his master's license. Some people work for a company for years and get stuck doing the same tasks over and over without learning new things.
> 
> I knew a guy that did service plumbing for years and never set a bathtub. He also never did a shower pan install, yet he called himself a plumber. Maybe people should lighten up a little on this guy. He might be legit with a master working for him and all until he gets his license. Just sayin'.


They are working under a gc license guarantee. Go to the website, no way that is a legit business.


----------



## Tommy plumber

NYC Plumber said:


> They are working under a gc license guarantee. Go to the website, no way that is a legit business.


 





Might be a GC trying to get a master plumbing license to cover his bases. So he must not be pulling permits, because when I have subbed under a Building Contractor ( a BC is a notch lower than a GC; BC can't construct anything taller than (3) stories here in FL, whereas a GC is unlimited) I had to pull my own plumbing permit under his general permit.


----------



## Plumber71

Yeah maybe your right ! BUT !!!!!!
I can have a conversation with a helper and can determine that's what he is . Then I can have a journeyman talk to me about a job and can say " He got promise " 
And last but not least I can have a conversation with a Master plumber and know we are not trying to out do one another in how much each other knows ...
And that talent comes from the trenches I've have dug and how many times I had to redo something my Master Plumber to me could be better when I was a pee on ..
Just saying you can't be a black belt in karate until you complete being a white belt ...

He is a HACK .....


----------



## NYC Plumber

Whatever it is, he's advertising master plumber services with no license number.
And he clearly doesn't know what the hell he's talkin about. He looks like a good carpenter though.
He is def not legit so why would you defend him?


----------



## Tommy plumber

NYC Dept. of Bldgs won't give him a master plumbing license if he can't show the Soc. Sec. Admin. records, time working under a licensed master plumber, all the other requirements, etc.


----------



## Plumber71

And on another note ! When you look out and see you truck sitting , making no money . It's guys like that that hurt our trade and wallets ... And his covering plumber is worst then him .....


----------



## Tommy plumber

NYC Plumber said:


> Whatever it is, he's advertising master plumber services with no license number.
> And he clearly doesn't know what the hell he's talkin about. He looks like a good carpenter though.
> He is def not legit so why would you defend him?[/QUOTE]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just thought that if he really is a plumber, he was really taking a beating. But I agree 100% with you, GC's who won't sub out the plumbing, mechanical, etc. are screwing us out of work.
> 
> I contend with that here as well. Alot of the home re-modelers around here have their 'in-house craftsmen' installing fixtures, piping, etc. instead of sub-contracting out to a licensed plumbing contractor.


----------



## NYC Plumber

Ehhh dont worry he is no plumber... He deserves the beating.


----------



## OldSchool

I don't think there is a real plumber that would be out building decks and doing renovations...

He is a general contractor... that just happen to find a sucker to put up his plumbing licence....

He gets what is coming to him...

How would he like it if all the plumbers decided to start building decks....


----------



## Plumber71

I agree .


----------



## OldSchool

On another note 

These type of people come here all the time..... there is usually one to two a day and some times even more....

It is not our lose that he left with his tail between his legs.......

there is nothing ... that this fellow could have offered the other members of professional PZ members...

He was digging for knowledge... so let him dig using the search button... I for one will not give him any of the knowledge that I aquired over the years of my career..


----------



## OldSchool

*Heres a plumbing tip*

*If you are not a plumbing professional don't post questions !!!!!!*


----------



## Tommy plumber

Old School, you have erased all doubts, I'm on board, he must be a GC. You raise an excellent point that he's constructing decks and doing carpentry work. Plumbers don't build decks.


----------



## Lmp

Tommy plumber said:


> Old School, you have erased all doubts, I'm on board, he must be a GC. You raise an excellent point that he's constructing decks and doing carpentry work. Plumbers don't build decks.


I was gonna build my deck this summer but now I can tell my wife to hire a contractor cause the guys at pz said plumbers don't build decks!!!! Thanks guys for getting me off the hook on this!!! LoL !!!


----------



## Tommy plumber

Lmp said:


> I was gonna build my deck this summer but now I can tell my wife to hire a contractor cause the guys at pz said plumbers don't build decks!!!! Thanks guys for getting me off the hook on this!!! LoL !!!


 





Tell the wife if you build a deck, you will be guilty of working outside the scope of your license and NYC DOB will come and fine you........:laughing:


----------



## NYC Plumber

OldSchool said:


> On another note
> 
> These type of people come here all the time..... there is usually one to two a day and some times even more....
> 
> It is not our lose that he left with his tail between his legs.......
> 
> there is nothing ... that this fellow could have offered the other members of professional PZ members...
> 
> He was digging for knowledge... so let him dig using the search button... I for one will not give him any of the knowledge that I aquired over the years of my career..


Well im gonna do a better job of trying to spot them!


----------



## OldSchool

Lmp said:


> I was gonna build my deck this summer but now I can tell my wife to hire a contractor cause the guys at pz said plumbers don't build decks!!!! Thanks guys for getting me off the hook on this!!! LoL !!!


Don't be silly

Do you build decks for other people??


----------



## Lmp

OldSchool said:


> Don't be silly
> 
> Do you build decks for other people??


It was just a joke


----------



## Widdershins

Tommy plumber said:


> Old School, you have erased all doubts, I'm on board, he must be a GC. You raise an excellent point that he's constructing decks and doing carpentry work. Plumbers don't build decks.


 One of my Journeymen and I were fined $250.00 each by an L&I compliance officer (also a State Electrical Inspector) 7 or 8 years ago for doing work outside the scope of our respective licenses.

Our infraction? We were re-framing a few shower walls so we could install the valves w/out destroying the existing framing. It was a good thing he hadn't come by an hour or so earlier. If he had he would have caught us heading off floor joists for two toilet rough-ins and a shower drain rough-in.

He was a real azzhat -- He fined the Electrician for not having the cover off of the service panel he had come out to inspect and then confiscated the Tin Benders extension cords for missing grounds on the plugs.


----------



## Mississippiplum

Widdershins said:


> He was a real azzhat -- He fined the Electrician for not having the cover off of the service panel he had come out to inspect and then confiscated the Tin Benders extension cords for missing grounds on the plugs.


That's just wrong, extension cords arent cheap, a few replacement plug caps and everything would have been fine.

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


----------



## Tommy plumber

Mississippiplum said:


> That's just wrong, extension cords arent cheap, a few replacement plug caps and everything would have been fine.
> 
> sent from the jobsite porta-potty


 






I've worked on larger commercial jobs where the GC took safety seriously, as should we all. Their safety man would walk the different floors of the building and if he found an extension cord that was not grounded or had any visible damage to it, he cut it in half; that forced the subs to replace them. That was necessary, as there were puddles all over the concrete floors after we had some good downpours. (the bldg had the roof on but it wasn't dried-in all the way yet).

If some unlucky fellah was standing in a puddle with an extension cord that was frayed and making contact with the puddle then the fellah would have been electrocuted.


----------



## Mississippiplum

Tommy plumber said:


> I've worked on larger commercial jobs where the GC took safety seriously, as should we all. Their safety man would walk the different floors of the building and if he found an extension cord that was not grounded or had any visible damage to it, he cut it in half; that forced the subs to replace them. That was necessary, as there were puddles all over the concrete floors after we had some good downpours. (the bldg had the roof on but it wasn't dried-in all the way yet).
> 
> If some unlucky fellah was standing in a puddle with an extension cord that was frayed and making contact with the puddle then the fellah would have been electrocuted.


If it's frayed then yeah it needs to be throw away or cut in half. but just the plug cap ends that are bad, they can easily be replaced and then the cord can be put back into service.

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


----------



## Titan Plumbing

Mississippiplum said:


> If it's frayed then yeah it needs to be throw away or cut in half. but just the plug cap ends that are bad, they can easily be replaced and then the cord can be put back into service.
> 
> sent from the jobsite porta-potty


You cannot have replacements ends on extension cords per OSHA.


----------



## Cotton06

Titan Plumbing said:


> You cannot have replacements ends on extension cords per OSHA.


I agree got nailed bad by an OSHA inspector for bad cords that I thought could be repaired NOT!!!!!! they made me throw all the repaired cords away and gave me a stiff fine


----------



## CTs2p2

Widdershins said:


> He was a real azzhat -- He fined the Electrician for not having the cover off of the service panel he had come out to inspect



This seems out of line.. He probably would have fined him for leaving an unattended panel open. Sounds like he is overcompensating (he must stand real close to the urinal)


----------



## Widdershins

CTs2p2 said:


> This seems out of line.. He probably would have fined him for leaving an unattended panel open. Sounds like he is overcompensating (he must stand real close to the urinal)


 He was a newly deputized Compliance Officer.

He's calmed down a bit over the years, but only a little bit.


----------



## Bayside500

Titan Plumbing said:


> You cannot have replacements ends on extension cords per OSHA.


really, even if they are UL approved plugs and test out correctly ?

oh man, most my cords have repaired ends on them :whistling2:


----------



## ChrisConnor

Widdershins said:


> then confiscated the Tin Benders extension cords for missing grounds on the plugs.




Those weren't extension cords, they were three strand copper, vinyl coated tie down straps.

He'd have a fight on his hands if he tried to "confiscate" anything of mine. A fine or citation, perhaps. What gives him jurisdiction to declare contraband and collect it?


----------



## OldSchool

Heres a plumbing tip

If you think the flush valve or flapper is leaking but can not see it...

Use pepper...

Sprinkle pepper around the inside of the bowl and you will see right away if the flush valve or flapper is leaking


----------



## bartnc37

I prefer food coloring for those super slow leaks. Just make sure the H.O. owners knows what you did or make sure to flush the tank out. They are gonna be real confused when they flush and the bowl turns blood red, blue, green, or whatever color dye you used.:whistling2:


----------



## Mississippiplum

bartnc37 said:


> I prefer food coloring for those super slow leaks. Just make sure the H.O. owners knows what you did or make sure to flush the tank out. They are gonna be real confused when they flush and the bowl turns blood red, blue, green, or whatever color dye you used.:whistling2:


Yes- I love the food coloring trick

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


----------



## plbgbiz

I like Mrs. Stewart's bluing.


----------



## easttexasplumb

Use socket savers to get pipes to finish height instead of internal cutters. Socket savers last longer and will not fall into the pipe, they are a little messy though.


----------



## azmike

easttexasplumb said:


> View attachment 15395
> 
> 
> Use socket savers to get pipes to finish height instead of internal cutters. Socket savers last longer and will not fall into the pipe, they are a little messy though.


Hey Tex what happened?


----------



## revenge

Use a guitar string to remove dap from wall hung sinks or toilets


----------



## DesertOkie

OldSchool said:


> Heres a plumbing tip
> 
> If you think the flush valve or flapper is leaking but can not see it...
> 
> Use pepper...
> 
> Sprinkle pepper around the inside of the bowl and you will see right away if the flush valve or flapper is leaking



What kind of pepper, hot or what? I use koolaid, the name brand is the best sugerfree.


----------



## Widdershins

easttexasplumb said:


> View attachment 15395
> 
> 
> Use socket savers to get pipes to finish height instead of internal cutters. Socket savers last longer and will not fall into the pipe, they are a little messy though.



I like the socket savers.

The only issue I have with them is hiding the shavings.

You can't use a socket saver w/out admitting you fuqued up. Even when you didn't.


----------



## azmike

What i do is take a dump in the tank itself then i watch the turd and if it hunkers up against the flapper then i know right there it surely must be leaking....:thumbsup:


----------



## DesertOkie

azmike said:


> What i do is take a dump in the tank itself then i watch the turd and if it hunkers up against the flapper then i know right there it surely must be leaking....:thumbsup:[/QUO
> 
> That's kinda dumb, what if it's a floater.:laughing:


----------



## azmike

Well eventualy when the water level gets low enough it will work its way over to the leaky area in question and i know it may seem to be quite a lengthy process it has always been a sure fire technique for determing where the leak is coming from!


----------



## DesertOkie

azmike said:


> Well eventualy when the water level gets low enough it will work its way over to the leaky area in question and i know it may seem to be quite a lengthy process it has always been a sure fire technique for determing where the leak is coming from!



yep you need a new flapper that will be 100 for the labor and 800 leak detection.:laughing:


----------



## Tymon

Tymon out of Tx. 
Know what you mean. Ever since i subed Trims years ago, i did pretty much the same thing (minus the putty)but doped every possible connection.Hell been doing service for 6yr. hadnt had a call back for issue. Recommend it. Not sure about sillicone, not a big fan . but if it works. right


----------



## Tymon

Mike Jessome said:


> Silicone anything you teflon, put a beed of silicon on waste and over flows silicone po plugs throw away that putty use silicone, just don't forget to wipe away the excess.


Tymon out of tx.
silicone what? Were plumbing, not painting.


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

Widdershins said:


> I like the socket savers.
> 
> The only issue I have with them is hiding the shavings.
> 
> You can't use a socket saver w/out admitting you fuqued up. Even when you didn't.


I use socket savers. It's only a mess up if some one else sees it !! Lol On dwv I will use them if I need to rather then put in a coupling because when you see the coupling then you know I messed up


----------



## easttexasplumb

azmike said:


> Hey Tex what happened?


Huh. It was new construction, I left pipe above grade till floor was finished then set flange.


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

easttexasplumb said:


> Huh. It was new construction, I left pipe above grade till floor was finished then set flange.


If you were good you would have cut the pipe the correct length the first time !! That's wasting pipe. Lol. Jkn!!! I'd rather use inside cutters and when I do I tape the cutter and the chuck together so it won't fall out. Been down that road before !!


----------



## jc-htownplumber

I just put a sponge inside the pipe if it falls sponge catches it 

I like switching heater gas valves by putting a vacuum on it close the heater valve shut the water to the house open the tnp until it reaches the tnp level and work fast to swap it out


----------



## jc-htownplumber

thepmac said:


> I just learnt a new tip that I thought I had to share, when you get fibreglass insulation fibres on your skin, nail polish remover gets rid of them amazingly well. Just pour some on a paper towel and apply to effected area and it apparently dissolves the fibreglass and gets rid of the itch. I don't know how, but I know it works!


I always use gold Bond baby powder before I go in an attic and it doesn't stick but when it is on you after you shower use a thick lotion works great


----------



## HOMER

ABS P TRAPS

the premade ABS trap has seams running down both sides of the inlet...
Had a few of these leak in less than 2 years at the threads...
Tip is to buy trap without slip adapter threads and glue your own slip adapter onto the trap.


----------



## OldSchool

DesertOkie said:


> What kind of pepper, hot or what? I use koolaid, the name brand is the best sugerfree.


Black dam pepper

What other kind is there...

Now don't say white


----------



## revenge

bell pepper green pepper red pepper chille pepper


----------



## DUNBAR PLUMBING

On a Mansfield toilet, if you have water hammer on an aging fill valve (mansfield OEM) or vibration relating to the fill valve,

Remove the cap that holds the float rod armature, remove the assembly (carefully) and take the 2 rubber discs, flip them.

Creates new wear points and solves the problem with water hammer.


----------



## revenge

y dont you just put in a new flushmate problem solved and more profit right


----------



## Redwood

revenge said:


> y dont you just put in a new flushmate problem solved and more profit right


Cause they are probably louder than the water hammer... :laughing:


----------



## johnlewismcleod

Mike Jessome said:


> Silicone anything you teflon, put a beed of silicon on waste and over flows silicone po plugs throw away that putty use silicone, just don't forget to wipe away the excess.


I've got to suspect you are a new construction plumber...if you did service work and had to break out fittings put together with adhesive, I suspect you wouldn't think it such a "cool" trick :icon_wink:


----------



## GREENPLUM

johnlewismcleod said:


> I've got to suspect you are a new construction plumber...if you did service work and had to break out fittings put together with adhesive, I suspect you wouldn't think it such a "cool" trick :icon_wink:


 
I do service plumbing and use silicone. 

I suspect you have seen putty wear out, moldy black, stain fixtures and leak.


----------



## DUNBAR PLUMBING

*Oldest trick in the book*

Flip a seat washer over to use the "good" side of the washer if the opposite side is wore/damaged and no way to get a new one at time of repair.


I used to keep gasket material on my truck, carve out new ones when I was 14 back in 1912.


----------



## johnlewismcleod

GREENPLUM said:


> I do service plumbing and use silicone.
> 
> I suspect you have seen putty wear out, moldy black, stain fixtures and leak.


Heh...I suspect I used the word "suspect" one too many times :jester:.

But I will say that I've set many thousands of basket strainers and faucets without using dap or silicone and I can't recall a single call back for leaks...and the next plumber that goes behind me can break out my stuff without a chisel, sawzall, or grinder.

I do remember encountering basket strainers and pop-ups assembled with dap...and the cursing, sweating, and grunting (not to mention time lost) involved in breaking them out :furious:

Definitely not one of the "cool" tips IMO :no:


----------



## GREENPLUM

johnlewismcleod said:


> Heh...I suspect I used the word "suspect" one too many times :jester:.


 
You suspected correctly. 

That was pretty much the only reason I responded, just for fun.

I am not talking about Tub &Tile Caulk when I say silicone, Im talking 100% Silicone. I suspect you know the difference.:laughing:


----------



## 422 plumber

If you start with a small amount of putty, and press down on whatever flange it's under, pick it up and trim the excess putty and then install, it never leaks and will come apart in the future. I have made a lot of money by "fixing" slow draining lavs, because the installing plumber used about half a tub of putty and it blocked the overflow, which helps to prevent air lock caused by surface tension.


----------



## plumbtekkk

*Plumbers don't build decks. Hire a licensed master plumber.*

just reading some old threads [ i'm new] you know what a Carpenter is? A plumber with his brain bashed in.


----------



## FluidPlumbing

Don't pee into the wind


----------



## U666A

FluidPlumbing said:


> Don't pee into the wind


Suggest you head over to the intro section and tell the forum a little about yourself if you expect anyone to take your incredibly unique and cutting edge humour at par...


----------



## FluidPlumbing

U666A said:


> Suggest you head over to the intro section and tell the forum a little about yourself if you expect anyone to take your incredibly unique and cutting edge humour at par...


Well it may seem a little unique if everyone on here is from the U S of A, I'll head over there when I get a break from my uniquely humorous nature.


:jester:


----------



## Adamche

FluidPlumbing said:


> Well it may seem a little unique if everyone on here is from the U S of A, I'll head over there when I get a break from my uniquely humorous nature.
> 
> 
> :jester:


I'm not from the USA. A little bit to the south


----------



## mccmech

Hey, I got a plumbing tip just 2 days ago. $25 from a big box store customer after I replaced her toilet, which I was paid the ****ty rate of $175 by the store to do. This h.o. was such a price-shopping loser that she scheduled me for this coming week to come back & take care of 3 other plumbing issues she's having. I guess the tip is "F" those big box store install jobs, eh?:no:


----------



## fightnews

service guy said:


> That would be great. The biggest downside to putty is the staining. I'll never forget when some moron GC used putty on all the faucets on marble countertops for a spec house he was building....all through the house, every countertop was stained horribly. He called me out there to fix it, I told him it was too late! He was a real jackass.:laughing:


You can fix it with acetone and something else. It takes like 6-8 treatments or something like that.


----------



## Widdershins

*Not so much.*



fightnews said:


> You can fix it with acetone and something else. It takes like 6-8 treatments or something like that.


That was helpful.


----------



## Adamche

fightnews said:


> You can fix it with acetone and something else. It takes like 6-8 treatments or something like that.


Are you sure? no disclaimer:blink:


----------



## love2surf927

fightnews said:


> You can fix it with acetone and something else. It takes like 6-8 treatments or something like that.


Do you speak from experience, or is this something somebody told you. I find it hard to believe the acetone would pull the oil from the stone.


----------



## BigDave

I use acetone to "melt" the old dap from tile and countertops
when installing new toilets and sinks. It takes time, but does a
great job. I use a fan and open windows to lessen the effects of
harmful vapors.


----------



## Ironwood2011

My Tip I just recently figured out.
When doing a slab leak detection, and you have a large manifold and you are trying to see which line has the leak on it. I made sure everything was off and I put my infrared camera on it and could see which line was the hottest. It was so easy, I dont know why I never thought of that in the first place.


----------



## BigDave

Ironwood2011 said:


> My Tip I just recently figured out.
> When doing a slab leak detection, and you have a large manifold and you are trying to see which line has the leak on it. I made sure everything was off and I put my infrared camera on it and could see which line was the hottest. It was so easy, I dont know why I never thought of that in the first place.


WOW! How much did that little jewel cost?


----------



## rjbphd

BigDave said:


> WOW! How much did that little jewel cost?


I just use a dog to find the leak on heating coil embedded in concrete.


----------



## plumbingcali

This stuff is hilarious. It cracks me up. Taking a dump in the tank itself is priceless.


----------



## Ironwood2011

BigDave said:


> WOW! How much did that little jewel cost?


Infrared doesn't cost that much. My camera I got for $1,700.00. It has paid for itself 10 fold.:thumbup:


----------



## johnlewismcleod

BigDave said:


> WOW! How much did that little jewel cost?


Not too bad at all. I got this one about 6 months ago and it's been very useful:

http://www.toolup.com/milwaukee_2276-21_m12-cordless-laser-temp-gun-thermometer-kit.aspx


----------



## johnlewismcleod

Ironwood2011 said:


> Infrared doesn't cost that much. My camera I got for $1,700.00. It has paid for itself 10 fold.:thumbup:


I just realized you weren't talking about a temperature gun. 

What is this infrared camera you're referring to, and what are the uses (besides looking at manifolds, that is)?

Got a link to a supplier?

Is this something that insulation shops use for locating cold/hot spots in rooms, perhaps?


----------



## Ginawings

Not sure if this has already been said, but don't do sidework.

It's not worth losing the best job you had. Or any job for that matter. Unless you work for roto rooter.


----------



## deerslayer

When re-hanging urinals with cap nuts and studs take your channel locks and crimp the stud real good on one end and start it in the flange that way it doesn't move till the cap nut is all the way on!


----------



## pilot light

Check for leaks!


----------



## johnlewismcleod

pilot light said:


> Check for leaks!


Thanks, Pilot...good tip :thumbsup:


----------



## rjbphd

pilot light said:


> Check for leaks!



Leak from where? Water pipe? Drain pipe? Anatomy pipe?


----------



## Adamche

rjbphd said:


> Leak from where? Water pipe? Drain pipe? Anatomy pipe?


Yeah anus


----------



## Ginawings

Paint your tools! I can't stress this enough. Anyone can say the brand new pipe wrench is theirs, but if it is lime green it suddenly loses the ability to grow legs.

Bright colors also help you spot them on a job, resulting in fewer left tools. And bright colors help you locate them in the dark. And having a painted set of tools helps tools not get mixed up with anyone elses tools on the job.

Auto parts stores sell engine enamel spray paint that is awesome for this. Dries in a few minutes, and it lasts awhile.


And to help with the trend of not forgetting things, carry a tool bag or bucket with pockets. If one is empty, you know something is missing!


----------



## SlickRick

When installing a kitchen faucet, make sure it is centered and tightened down appropriately.

If you use putty under the spray holder, make sure that the sob is down tight, and remove excess putty.

Pull the frickin hose out and run hot water through it so that it falls like a loop, not a coil spring.

Tell any employee that if they cannot follow these instructions and you get a call from the cust. That they may need to install for craigs list.

I am posting these instructions due to the fact that I assumed every journeyman knows this until I found out otherwise this morn.

My 4th yr apprentice son that has to babysit this journeyman was out sick one day last week, and that is the type work I paid for.

I post this because I am a little POed right this second.

Fortunately the call came from a long time cust. that just wanted me to be aware. And for her kindness she receives a free faucet. She is an attorney, and a friend, we fought more about her not paying the bill than the problem .


----------



## Don The Plumber

SlickRick said:


> When installing a kitchen faucet, make sure it is centered and tightened down appropriately.
> 
> If you use putty under the spray holder, make sure that the sob is down tight, and remove excess putty.
> 
> Pull the frickin hose out and run hot water through it so that it falls like a loop, not a coil spring.
> 
> Tell any employee that if they cannot follow these instructions and you get a call from the cust. That they may need to install for craigs list.
> 
> I am posting these instructions due to the fact that I assumed every journeyman knows this until I found out otherwise this morn.
> 
> My 4th yr apprentice son that has to babysit this journeyman was out sick one day last week, and that is the type work I paid for.
> 
> I post this because I am a little POed right this second.
> 
> Fortunately the call came from a long time cust. that just wanted me to be aware. And for her kindness she receives a free faucet. She is an attorney, and a friend, we fought more about her not paying the bill than the problem .


Hmmmm.......... why do I work alone? This is why.:laughing: Because of Ricks B.S.,(Baby sitting). I use to call my family business, Don's Babysitting service. And our motto was, "WE DO IT NICE, CUZ WE DO IT TWICE'.:yes:

So I know exactly how ya feel.

I had a Jman saw part way through closet bolts, & break off the rest, on about a dozen toilets, before he realized, he had the washers, that the closet caps snap on to, upside down. You know those little white discs that say this side up. He could not figure out why they would not snap down, but he was so important, & so fast, that he left that for me to figure out the next day. Then I could not get the nuts off, without the bolt turning inside the flange, cuz threads were bent, from breaking off bolt. But my brother, would always praise, how fast this plumber was. Well, he didn't take into account, how Don's babysitting services, finished most of his jobs.:yes:


----------



## Gettinit

*best penetrating oil*

Corrosion X I think its made in Texas by a family owned company.


----------



## Gettinit

*homemade*

This will cut through most anything....50-50 of acetone and break cleaner.


----------



## SlickRick

Don The Plumber said:


> Hmmmm.......... why do I work alone? This is why.:laughing: Because of Ricks B.S.,(Baby sitting). I use to call my family business, Don's Babysitting service. And our motto was, "WE DO IT NICE, CUZ WE DO IT TWICE'.:yes:
> 
> So I know exactly how ya feel.
> 
> I had a Jman saw part way through closet bolts, & break off the rest, on about a dozen toilets, before he realized, he had the washers, that the closet caps snap on to, upside down. You know those little white discs that say this side up. He could not figure out why they would not snap down, but he was so important, & so fast, that he left that for me to figure out the next day. Then I could not get the nuts off, without the bolt turning inside the flange, cuz threads were bent, from breaking off bolt. But my brother, would always praise, how fast this plumber was. Well, he didn't take into account, how Don's babysitting services, finished most of his jobs.:yes:


And this guy has heard me say 1000 times to slow down and make sure everything is 100%. These speed demons all think they are hero's . First call back I have had since I got rid of the last 2 last April. The one day my son wasn't there to double check the work.


----------



## Widdershins

SlickRick said:


> When installing a kitchen faucet, make sure it is centered and tightened down appropriately.
> 
> If you use putty under the spray holder, make sure that the sob is down tight, and remove excess putty.
> 
> Pull the frickin hose out and run hot water through it so that it falls like a loop, not a coil spring.


I squeeze in a big glob of clear silicone under the escutcheons of side spray receivers, disposal air switches and lotion/soap dispensers.

Folks really abuse those three items, so it pays to glue 'em in and fill in the voids so they don't come loose 7 or 8 days after the installation.:thumbsup:


----------



## SlickRick

I have never had a problem with putty myself, but I may have to switch to silicone.


----------



## Widdershins

SlickRick said:


> I have never had a problem with putty myself, but I may have to switch to silicone.


Most of the Stone guys I deal with over drill/core the holes.

What I really like about silicone is how slippery it is. It lubes for the first ten minutes or so, then it tacks up, then it skins over and then finally it glues the Mother down.

The best part is it fills in the voids w/out leaving nasty oils to discolor the stone countertop.


----------



## Gettinit

I like silicone for many things but siliconing the friggin c/o plugs in is ignorant at best. I run into some every now and again.


----------



## rocksteady

Gettinit said:


> I like silicone for many things but siliconing the friggin c/o plugs in is ignorant at best. I run into some every now and again.


If you don't want to tape and dope them, the best thing is toilet wax.







Paul


----------



## Gettinit

rocksteady said:


> If you don't want to tape and dope them, the best thing is toilet wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paul



If I find out who is doing it I will pass that along. I use tape and or dope.:thumbsup:


----------



## rjbphd

Gettinit said:


> If I find out who is doing it I will pass that along. I use tape and or dope.:thumbsup:


Which is which? If you find out who did it.. ya gonna use tape/dope/toilet wax the person??


----------



## Gettinit

rjbphd said:


> Which is which? If you find out who did it.. ya gonna use tape/dope/toilet wax the person??


I use teflon tape and pipe dope. I do not use wax. Hot out there today?


----------



## Qball415

rocksteady said:


> If you don't want to tape and dope them, the best thing is toilet wax.
> 
> Paul


Wax? Never heard of that. Just curious why not dope it?


----------



## drtyhands

rocksteady said:


> If you don't want to tape and dope them, the best thing is toilet wax.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paul


 One of the first tricks I learned from an old timer.
Also showed me how to whack a brass plug out from a cleanout.


----------



## johnlewismcleod

Qball415 said:


> Wax? Never heard of that. Just curious why not dope it?


Most dopes set up hard eventually (even t+2) and can make breaking out the C.O. a real pain. Teflon tape helps alleviate this, but I've found the best seal for _both_ pressure testing _and_ breaking out later is teflon and plumbers grease.

The grease makes the teflon slick and it slides into the threads with no risk of balling up outside of the joint.

The seal is so good I often use teflon + plumbers grease for gas or any other application where I don't want to make a mess with dope.

Try it...you'll like it! :thumbup:


----------



## pilot light

Just say no too callbacks! Instead just tell them it is a staycation!:laughing:


----------



## Tommy plumber

Don The Plumber said:


> Hmmmm.......... why do I work alone? This is why.:laughing: Because of Ricks B.S.,(Baby sitting). I use to call my family business, Don's Babysitting service. And our motto was, "WE DO IT NICE, CUZ WE DO IT TWICE'.:yes:
> 
> So I know exactly how ya feel.
> 
> I had a Jman saw part way through closet bolts, & break off the rest, on about a dozen toilets, before he realized, he had the washers, that the closet caps snap on to, upside down. You know those little white discs that say this side up. He could not figure out why they would not snap down, but he was so important, & so fast, that he left that for me to figure out the next day. Then I could not get the nuts off, without the bolt turning inside the flange, cuz threads were bent, from breaking off bolt. But my brother, would always praise, how fast this plumber was. Well, he didn't take into account, how Don's babysitting services, finished most of his jobs.:yes:


 






When I was green and new to the trade, I was working with (2) journeymen who were paid by piece-work. They used a bolt cutters to cut the brass W/C bolts on new installs!!! Then they'd snap the little white (or bone) plastic caps on.

Talk about speed demons. These guys hauled a$$ and expected me to do so as well.


----------



## antiCon

dont drop a moen pozi temp 1222b clip in the wall when swapin' cartridges.. 

also easy way to roll a no-hub band, hit it with a little soapy water from your spiffy spray bottle... rolls back like a rubber ... 

and i think blue magic thread sealant is the best. 

also PLEASE dont use thread sealant on flared, compression, or union type fittings as the next plumber that goes to service that is never gonna make it seal without cutting it off or replacing it... 

use a grinder on a blade holder so you can use 2 paddle blades on it like a cross(+) i like a 3" and a 2" blade, works wonders on soft clogs and grease.

if you tap a seat wrench when pulling a seat that is really old or striped a bit it tends to break free better

when running a lateral drain line from the vent you can let the machine run and use the main vent to hear if you cable is past the clog


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

When in a bind or just to be cool. Cut PVC with a nylon string !!! Only a bad mo fo can do it


----------



## Airgap

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> When in a bind or just to be cool. Cut PVC with a nylon string !!! Only a bad mo fo can do it


I've won a few dollars here and there doing it....Cubs are so easy...:laughing:


----------



## BigDave

I guess I'm not a bad mo fo any more
My arms always give out before getting all the way through.
I once burned the crap outta my finger after using a braided wire type
with the loop handles. It was amazing how hot the wire was


----------



## Widdershins

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> When in a bind or just to be cool. Cut PVC with a nylon string !!! Only a bad mo fo can do it


I don't have the attention span -- I'd get about half way through and lose interest.:yes:


----------



## BROOKLYN\PLUMB

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> When in a bind or just to be cool. Cut PVC with a nylon string !!! Only a bad mo fo can do it


You can also cut a glass gauge (steam boiler) with a nylon thread, just wrap around go back and forth until it's hot and run cold water over it, it will just snap!


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

Never heard that. We put electric tape on the glass tube and use tubing cutters to cut sight tubes for expansion tanks


----------



## BROOKLYN\PLUMB

That's okay I never heard of that


----------



## Clog Pro

Ron said:


> Wash hands before you eat.


Real plumbers never wash their hands.... haha! Helps build your immune system.


----------



## Hans B Shaver

wash your hands be for going to the toilet for your self. And after once after for for Avery one ells


----------



## Dalerob

Never :no: Flush Anything into Your Toilet, Except for Toilet Paper :thumbup:


----------



## RealLivePlumber

^^ Maybe it should say "adjustable spammer wrench"


----------



## Optimus Primer

Dalerob said:


> Never :no: Flush Anything into Your Toilet, Except for Toilet Paper :thumbup:


No poop? Now you tell me. Where were you 20 minutes ago.


----------



## OldSchool

Never leave without getting paid


----------



## plbgbiz

When in doubt...flush. :yes:


----------



## Gettinit

When taking valves apart for cleaning or inspection, have the replacement gaskets on hand.


----------



## gassyplumber

If you drop something in an acrylic tub and scratch it like I did at home last night, pumice hand cleaner and fingertip rubbing will buff it right out :thumbsup:


----------



## PLUMBER_BILL

gassyplumber said:


> If you drop something in an acrylic tub and scratch it like I did at home last night, pumice hand cleaner and fingertip rubbing will buff it right out :thumbsup:


And you'd be surprized what you can do with toothpaste, like when a closet auger scratches a bowl. Hint if your going to use a homeowners,
ask don't take.


----------



## Redwood

PLUMBER_BILL said:


> And you'd be surprized what you can do with toothpaste.


I'd be more likely to try toothpaste over the heavily abrasive pumice on an acrylic tub.

You may not notice it right away but that spot rubbed with pumice will be dulled...

That is why you shouldn't use abrasive cleansers with acrylic tubs...


----------



## CPT

Proud Plumber said:


> I have seen many plumbers put Plastic in the ground without primer or cleaner. I can only say although they did not have a lot of problems it is wrong. Primer wouldn't exist if it wasn't a crucial part of the solvent weld process.
> 
> As a side note- the first guy I see on a trim with purple primer under a cabinet is getting an unmerciful tongue lashing. Purple on rough and clear on trim.


Our inspectors don't allow clear they want to see the purple. If they don't see it they make you cut it out and do it again.


----------



## Adamche

CPT said:


> Our inspectors don't allow clear they want to see the purple. If they don't see it they make you cut it out and do it again.


Same here but primer is red and glue is blue


----------



## Gettinit

Trying to get an accurate read on a pressure gauge or manometer and it is bouncing all over the place, get a snubber.


----------



## deerslayer

When putting van hangers or bell whatever you call em up with plastic anchors a short piece of 1/4" cu on the screw will keep the anchor in the drywall or block and make them nice and tight.


----------



## Widdershins

deerslayer said:


> When putting van hangers or bell whatever you call em up with plastic anchors a short piece of 1/4" cu on the screw will keep the anchor in the drywall or block and make them nice and tight.
> 
> View attachment 18939



I daub the anchors and screws with Gorilla glue.

It's an expanding urethane glue.


----------



## rjbphd

Widdershins said:


> I daub the anchors and screws with Gorilla glue.
> 
> It's an expanding urethane glue.


 Is that Pilot light's glue... that explains ....


----------



## Widdershins

rjbphd said:


> Is that Pilot light's glue... that explains ....



I always figgered him for a stems and seeds guy.


----------



## Adamche

Widdershins said:


> I always figgered him for a stems and seeds guy.


Gorilla- eats..roots and leaves!:laughing::laughing:


----------



## fightnews

Use bread to stop dripping water when trying to solder anybody?


----------



## Gettinit

fightnews said:


> Use bread to stop dripping water when trying to solder anybody?


Use to before the jet swet kit.


----------



## U666A

fightnews said:


> Use bread to stop dripping water when trying to solder anybody?


Done it once or twice.

Can't remember where I heard the story, whether it was someone from my hall or possibly a member here...

The story goes that a plumber was doing some work in the basement for a little old lady and was having some trouble with water in the line. He asked the home owner for a slice of bread, just plain bread.

When she came back she had a glass of milk along with a nice decorative plate and on it was a slice of bread laden with about a 1/4" of butter...

:laughing:


----------



## justme

Only problem with the bread trick is when it stops up the faucets or fill valves


----------



## Epox

And be sure to remove the crust. :laughing:


----------



## wookie

fightnews said:


> Use bread to stop dripping water when trying to solder anybody?


Use Lennox " plumbers bread " now. Kinda looks and feels like styrofoam, dissolves completely.

wookie


----------



## fightnews

wookie said:


> Use Lennox " plumbers bread " now. Kinda looks and feels like styrofoam, dissolves completely.
> 
> wookie


Really I never heard off that but I would like to get my hands on some. I used bread on an 11/2 line before successfully.


----------



## deerslayer

It is still hard for me to grasp the concept of a plumber that is protecting the health of the nation stuffing bread full of yeast and mold in a potable water line


----------



## easttexasplumb

deerslayer said:


> It is still hard for me to grasp the concept of a plumber that is protecting the health of the nation stuffing bread full of yeast and mold in a potable water line


 
Would work good for prisions, get your bread and water out of the tap.


----------



## mccmech

deerslayer said:


> It is still hard for me to grasp the concept of a plumber that is protecting the health of the nation stuffing bread full of yeast and mold in a potable water line


I'm sure the code required flushing of the repaired water line will put your mind at ease. I'm sure that by the time the bread dissolves & then the line gets flushed the ppm's of all that nasty yeast & mold is way less than the accepted limits of fecal matter dictated by states, counties & municipalities.


----------



## RealLivePlumber

deerslayer said:


> It is still hard for me to grasp the concept of a plumber that is protecting the health of the nation stuffing bread full of yeast and mold in a potable water line


The same bread that you ate for lunch, and put in your stomach


----------



## SlickRick

Done it 100 times if not more.


----------



## Widdershins

deerslayer said:


> It is still hard for me to grasp the concept of a plumber that is protecting the health of the nation stuffing bread full of yeast and mold in a potable water line


Bread has a shelf life. Hopefully you aren't hanging on to it much longer than that.

As for the yeast, it's pretty much done once it reaches baking temps.


----------



## Qball415

I have sacrificed bread a time or two ill admit and it worked. Years ago a mentor of mine turned me on to 'plumbers candy'. They are gel capsules that expand when lightly heated when pushed in a few inches from where your going to solder to hold water, then just heat enough to pop after soldering.


----------



## coast to coast

Had to used a piece of a bagel once on an 1-1/4" heating line . HO didn't have any bread in the fridge . I'm going to look into that Lenox plumbers bread though . Until I get my propress anyways than I won't be needing bread anymore .


----------



## fightnews

deerslayer said:


> It is still hard for me to grasp the concept of a plumber that is protecting the health of the nation stuffing bread full of yeast and mold in a potable water line


Oh relax, flux is much worse.


----------



## fightnews

coast to coast said:


> Had to used a piece of a bagel once on an 1-1/4" heating line . HO didn't have any bread in the fridge . I'm going to look into that Lenox plumbers bread though . Until I get my propress anyways than I won't be needing bread anymore .


yeah bagels are the way to go. there nice and dense. I'm not interested in pro LESS. It's more money in materials and less for labor. I'd rather have the money in my pocket then put it in the supply houses.


----------



## Protech

Someone will be along shortly to show you the door...


----------



## BROOKLYN\PLUMB

And I'm gonna let you know to post an intro


----------



## Widdershins

BROOKLYN\PLUMB said:


> And I'm gonna let you know to post an intro


Just don't get him started on linear actuators.


----------



## brian phillips

Proud Plumber said:


> I have seen many plumbers put Plastic in the ground without primer or cleaner. I can only say although they did not have a lot of problems it is wrong. Primer wouldn't exist if it wasn't a crucial part of the solvent weld process.
> 
> As a side note- the first guy I see on a trim with purple primer under a cabinet is getting an unmerciful tongue lashing. Purple on rough and clear on trim.


Does anybody use heavy duty grey glue and primer?

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


----------



## Mississippiplum

brian phillips said:


> Does anybody use heavy duty grey glue and primer?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


We do on stuff larger then 2 inch

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


----------



## LEAD INGOT

Always carry a fresh towel. It works for plumbing, and time travel.


----------



## plumbcrazy81

Great stuff on here. A few Ive learned along the way.

1. Cutting baseboard covers with a Metal Cut off saw. Just slide the hangers to where you want them, cut it all together. Take the front baseboard cover off Lock the trigger and grind all the cut edge down, the baseboard-couplings go on super easy, no sharp edges, and no tin snips. Especially helpful when your running a lot of baseboard. Obviously dont leave the element in there when your cutting.

2. Obvious I guess, but cutting off fitting brushes and sticking them in a cordless for much faster clean fittings.

3. Milwaukee M12 rotary cut off tool for cutting J-Bolts. Cutting J Bolts with a hacksaw is probably one of my least favorite things to do. Staring at short & curlys and smelling piss...But only use the tool if the bolts are ALL brass, cheap brass coated bolts like the ones that come with the toilet will throw a ton of sparks and metal. Enough to mess up the finish on a toilet...:whistling2: and leaving a noticeable burnt metal smell...:laughing:

4. When cutting the subfloor opening for a standard tub shoe, an easy thing to remember is 7-11. 7 on center, and 11 out from the base plate of the wall.

5. When installing an tub shoe by yourself, place the screws into overflow without the faceplate on it, now you can hang the tub shoe in place in the overflow hole. I usually stick my fingers in the overflow and force it forward enough to catch and thread the drain. 

6. When Hanging a urinal, throw a 5 gallon bucket of water down it to verify no leaks before you connect the flushometer.

7. never use pro dope or real tuff on c.o.s you will air-test. i use rector seal t5 only.

8. Line up the letters on exposed piping, it looks nice and says "I care how my work looks" And once your in the habit it doesnt add any time. One company I worked for, would give a quick shine with some sand-cloth to a new boiler copper piping. H.O. always said how nice it looked and they would get referrals from H.O s showing off their shiny boiler.

9. Kozy Collars are great roof flanges, installed from inside so you dont need to billy goat all over a roof for a stack-vent/ Vent-stack.


----------



## JK949

LEAD INGOT said:


> Always carry a fresh towel. It works for plumbing, and time travel.


Yes, Mr. Prefect.


----------



## JK949

When dealing with an absent property owner/manager over the phone, always secure credit card info for your trip charge before giving any diagnostic info or bids.


----------



## prosplumbing

Killertoiletspider said:


> I would not be using silicone for anything connected to potable water, some silicones can leach into the water system.


Agreed


----------



## Gettinit

Had an HVAC system that I would have to go to the roof to turn the heat on. It was raining and I didn't want to go up. They had a sensor close enough to get canned air to. Turned it upside down, instant heat. Lazy, I know, but it works.


----------



## rjbphd

Gettinit said:


> Had an HVAC system that I would have to go to the roof to turn the heat on. It was raining and I didn't want to go up. They had a sensor close enough to get canned air to. Turned it upside down, instant heat. Lazy, I know, but it works.


 Wander naver will easst!!


----------



## Gettinit

rjbphd said:


> Wander naver will easst!!


:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:


----------



## DesertOkie

A disposal wrench works for a Bradley gang sink stop/check valve adjustment screw.


----------



## Hans B Shaver

Whine working with P V C pipe on cold and wet days and not much time to wait. 1 I sand the fittings. 2 I put the torch flam on the ground or heat up steel nipples and place them by the joint and place a rag over to help cure the glue.


----------



## rjbphd

Hans B Shaver said:


> Whine working with P V C pipe on cold and wet days and not much time to wait. 1 I sand the fittings. 2 I put the torch flam on the ground or heat up steel nipples and place them by the joint and place a rag over to help cure the glue.


 Ummm....never mind.....


----------



## 89plumbum

When entering a public restroom for repair (esp womens)... leave "out of order" sign up until completion.:laughing:


----------



## plbgbiz

89plumbum said:


> When entering a public restroom for repair (esp womens)... leave "out of order" sign up until completion.:laughing:


:w00t:


----------



## AlbacoreShuffle

89plumbum said:


> When entering a public restroom for repair (esp womens)... leave "out of order" sign up until completion.:laughing:


Or DONT Just for the fun of it !:laughing::laughing:


----------



## OldSchool

I know we all been in a situation where we needed to solder water line and the water keep dripping ... And we waited forever for it to finally stop dripping

This is a sure fire way to get out all the water out of the pipe...

Use your shop vac ... And suck the pipe dry


----------



## revenge

You have to open a faucet when you do it


----------



## Widdershins

OldSchool said:


> I know we all been in a situation where we needed to solder water line and the water keep dripping ... And we waited forever for it to finally stop dripping
> 
> This is a sure fire way to get out all the water out of the pipe...
> 
> Use your shop vac ... And suck the pipe dry


And make sure you turn off the the HW tank supply. A bad dip tube could really ruin your day if it starts siphoning on you.:laughing:


----------



## DesertOkie

You can solder with the shop vac on also. A 1/2 copper piece through a 3/4 valve will suck up the water before it gets there. ******* jetswet.


----------



## OldSchool

Widdershins said:


> And make sure you turn off the the HW tank supply. A bad dip tube could really ruin your day if it starts siphoning on you.:laughing:


I think you would figure that out the 10th time you empty the shop vac


----------



## plbgbiz

Great plumbing tip...


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

Rag or cloth with a stiff wire. Shove in pipe tite. Sweat b valve on then pull out rag and close valve. Bigger lines = bigger rag. Or a loaf or bread. Whit no whole wheat. Cuz what's left over will make a good snack when u are working late lol. If it's PVC. Dripping. Put glue inside the pipe. A big glob of it on the bottom it will act as a dam. If The line is not in ground and you can push it down and up then push it down as far as you can and drain what you can. Then push it up and sweat it fast !!!

Shop vac with smaller pipe inside pipe ur sweating is new too me. I like it I've used a vac befor but I hooked it to a fixtur or bib to draw water away from my joint.


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

plbgbiz said:


> Great plumbing tip...


Biz. U hush up with that chit


----------



## OldSchool

Many application for a shop vac...

I have used it to pull line or string through conduit and poly pipe so I can pull wire or heat trace

I have used it to pull vacuum on tanks... In order not having to drain them to change parts.... Also on oil tanks to change valves at bottom on tank


----------



## mccmech

89plumbum said:


> When entering a public restroom for repair (esp womens)... leave "out of order" sign up until completion.:laughing:


I also prop the door open with my tool bag. We all know how well people in the general public like to/ can read.:no:


----------



## mccmech

OldSchool said:


> I know we all been in a situation where we needed to solder water line and the water keep dripping ... And we waited forever for it to finally stop dripping
> 
> This is a sure fire way to get out all the water out of the pipe...
> 
> Use your shop vac ... And suck the pipe dry


Why not just ball up some bread, stuff it in the copper tubing. It'll buy you the time ya need to sweat a fitting before the bread dissolves. Besides, bread takes up a lot less space on the truck.


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

mccmech said:


> Why not just ball up some bread, stuff it in the copper tubing. It'll buy you the time ya need to sweat a fitting before the bread dissolves. Besides, bread takes up a lot less space on the truck.


Is it just the mechanical guys that use bread. Ssshhhhh maybe we will keep it our secret !!! Lol


----------



## OldSchool

mccmech said:


> Why not just ball up some bread, stuff it in the copper tubing. It'll buy you the time ya need to sweat a fitting before the bread dissolves. Besides, bread takes up a lot less space on the truck.


Well I always have a shop vac in the truck ... But a loaf of bread I don't ... By the time I would use it , it would be blue and dried up


----------



## revenge

i dont know if you on a sewer smell you try to to find the point of origin before you say smoke or if you just plain say nope we need to smoke it. If you do like i do and use the smoke test as last resort, cause you cant sniff it out. Carry a small can of coffee grounds when you trying to sniff out the location of smell. When the smell no longer is noticable to you open the can and take a big wiff of the coffee grounds idk why. but that allows you to keep sniffing it out and you might find the area where it comes from by where the smell is stronger


----------



## mccmech

OldSchool said:


> Well I always have a shop vac in the truck ... But a loaf of bread I don't ... By the time I would use it , it would be blue and dried up


Bwahahaha!


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

revenge said:


> i dont know if you on a sewer smell you try to to find the point of origin before you say smoke or if you just plain say nope we need to smoke it. If you do like i do and use the smoke test as last resort, cause you cant sniff it out. Carry a small can of coffee grounds when you trying to sniff out the location of smell. When the smell no longer is noticable to you open the can and take a big wiff of the coffee grounds idk why. but that allows you to keep sniffing it out and you might find the area where it comes from by where the smell is stronger


Hi my names tx mech nice to meet you. Wtf. Where the he'll you been ?? Thought maybe the 
Boarder war got you. How u been. Pm me.


----------



## deerslayer

Everything in a sloan valve will fit in the cap! Saves alot of mess I stick a long screwdriver through vac breaker to drain the inside and loosen it up and tip the valve and drain it into the cap!


----------



## revenge

good idea also when nut to the stop leaks due to the o ring pinched or messed up you pull the split ring back and roll teflon a few times between split ring and the thread you dont put on thread and tightn nut works like a charm i dont do it much but it will get you out of a bind and will last i rather due the repair proper by changing out o ring but at 5 and all supply houses closed you can do that and walk away


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

revenge said:


> good idea also when nut to the stop leaks due to the o ring pinched or messed up you pull the split ring back and roll teflon a few times between split ring and the thread you dont put on thread and tightn nut works like a charm i dont do it much but it will get you out of a bind and will last i rather due the repair proper by changing out o ring but at 5 and all supply houses closed you can do that and walk away


U ooo the plumbing gods on the zone are gonna get you!!!! For doin what you had to to get it fixed.


----------



## deerslayer

revenge said:


> good idea also when nut to the stop leaks due to the o ring pinched or messed up you pull the split ring back and roll teflon a few times between split ring and the thread you dont put on thread and tightn nut works like a charm i dont do it much but it will get you out of a bind and will last i rather due the repair proper by changing out o ring but at 5 and all supply houses closed you can do that and walk away


I don't think I have ever ran out of sloan O rings on the truck! I keep half a dozen on my tool bag where the strap clips on. Sloan rings on one side and trap nuts and washers on the other. I will not put sloan valves back together with used parts, it is a callback or it leaks and I gotta rebuild it waiting to happen! If I take it apart it is gonna get a 3n1 drop in kit, I have yet to have a customer complain beacause I put new parts in it and he didn't have to call us back.


----------



## revenge

you hundred percent right but sometimes well in my case most the time you order parts and the jack ass in charge wont even get you what you ask for you have to do what you got to keep the rest room running, i guess that what happens when you related to the boss you dont have to shiot just sit on you thumb and sniff your fingers


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

deerslayer said:


> I don't think I have ever ran out of sloan O rings on the truck! I keep half a dozen on my tool bag where the strap clips on. Sloan rings on one side and trap nuts and washers on the other. I will not put sloan valves back together with used parts, it is a callback or it leaks and I gotta rebuild it waiting to happen! If I take it apart it is gonna get a 3n1 drop in kit, I have yet to have a customer complain beacause I put new parts in it and he didn't have to call us back.


In service I see ur point and I do have some o rings on the truck But I'm not in service nor have room to stock parts like that. But I have an apprentice that likes to pinch the oring when installing new fv I tell him over and over but he won't listen. I've used Teflon just like revenge but went back and replaced it later. And I bet he might have too I wish I had a utility tool bed on my truck like y'all service guys all the storage would be nice. Check thus out. Pappadux restrant in arlington tx by the ball park Nice fixtures and some hack hacked it all by this crap. It's my pet peev and I see them every where. Some times I just want to get my tools and fix it. Not hard. 4 1/2 in stubb out from center. If you can't get a fv roughed in and set correctly. Just go flip burgers


----------



## revenge

yep tex but it sucks you need a part and the boss doesnt want to get it so f him i do what i got to do to get my job done and if i get a call back then its his ass not mine and i tell the owner if i had what i need this wouldnt happen but till we get what we need we never gonna do the job right if i use pliers on a sloan valve and mar the chrome and than thats my dumb fault for not useing a spud if i have to use teflon to repair it than its the bosses for not getting me what i need


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

Il mail you some o rings for Xmas. Lol


----------



## JK949

OldSchool said:


> I know we all been in a situation where we needed to solder water line and the water keep dripping ... And we waited forever for it to finally stop dripping
> 
> This is a sure fire way to get out all the water out of the pipe...
> 
> Use your shop vac ... And suck the pipe dry


Open hose bib on other side of house

Get 12g gallo gun or CO2 tank

2-3 cartridges usually blow out enough water to get it done.


----------



## CT18

Nobody uses the old bread trick anymore. :thumbup:


----------



## OldSchool

CT18 said:


> Nobody uses the old bread trick anymore. :thumbup:


One time I used a whole French stick on a 3" pipe


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

CT18 said:


> Nobody uses the old bread trick anymore. :thumbup:


Us mech guys do. Read my loose a few pages back. And mcmech post


----------



## U666A

OldSchool said:


> One time I used a whole French stick on a 3" pipe


It's not supposed to be toasted with garlic and cheese first OS... 
:LAUGHING:


----------



## Gettinit

You mechanical guys will stick your loaf in anything.


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

Gettinit said:


> You mechanical guys will stick your loaf in anything.


Yea buddy!!!


----------



## cincy plumber

Jet sweats:thumbsup:


----------



## OldSchool

U666A said:


> It's not supposed to be toasted with garlic and cheese first OS...
> :LAUGHING:


Am suppose to take the crust off first ???


----------



## U666A

Not if you dip it in au jus to soften it up first...


----------



## mccmech

CT18 said:


> Nobody uses the old bread trick anymore. :thumbup:


Really?! You ought not have said that. I guarantee you'll be using it in the next year, just because that's how karma works.


----------



## deerslayer

mccmech said:


> Really?! You ought not have said that. I guarantee you'll be using it in the next year, just because that's how karma works.


I have never used it! I find it objectionable to stick a product full of yeast and bacteria into a potable water line!


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

deerslayer said:


> I have never used it! I find it objectionable to stick a product full of yeast and bacteria into a potable water line!


Most of the time it's chill or heating water but I'm sure it's not to good for the coils. Lol. After looking inside potable water mains house feeds and house systems and seeing what's inside them and water heaters. A doubt a little bread will hurt. But I could be wrong


----------



## bighutch

you where trained the right way, i do the same. and i have no leaks either!


----------



## rjbphd

bighutch said:


> you where trained the right way, i do the same. and i have no leaks either!


 Hey bighutch.. seen u been plumbing quite a few years... why not post an intro before you know what....


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

bighutch said:


> you where trained the right way, i do the same. and i have no leaks either!


Thanks but we like to know a few things about new members. Years in trade. Kind of plumbing u do. License held. Putty or silicone joke. Where u live. Ect ect ect. Post an intro in intro section. Then everybody will come around welcoming u


----------



## Deaber

Try to chat around homebased clients, they seem to give good tip at the end of your service.


----------



## MarkToo

Deaber said:


> Try to chat around homebased clients, they seem to give good tip at the end of your service.



Are you a massage therapist?


----------



## damnplumber

Protech said:


> Won't you get more call backs from the fillvalve gasket leaking because it wasn't replaced? I say if your going to replace the valve, do the whole job.(unless it's a PITA customer who is jewing you down)


 
When I replace a fill valve, I don't drain the tank,,, First when I loosen the nut, push down on the top of the fill valve so it won't leak, Then put the palm of your hand under the old fill valve and as you push it up, plug the hold with your left hand. Make sure you have the new fill valve ready and push it in while pushing your hand out.


----------



## RealLivePlumber

............and hope like hell you don't drop the nut and watch it roll across the floor........


----------



## UN1TED-WE-PLUMB

damnplumber said:


> When I replace a fill valve, I don't drain the tank,,, First when I loosen the nut, push down on the top of the fill valve so it won't leak, Then put the palm of your hand under the old fill valve and as you push it up, plug the hold with your left hand. Make sure you have the new fill valve ready and push it in while pushing your hand out.




I do the same as you only I use a rag or a wad of tp instead of my left hand. And I use the old fluidmaster nut instead of the new "hand tighten" nut. I like the old nuts better as I can get my channel locks on them better.


----------



## JK949

At least flush it once and have a catch tray handy. Give the supply hose a twist, you don't want it to loosen from stored up torque.


----------



## Mississippiplum

JK949 said:


> Give the supply hose a twist, you don't want it to loosen from stored up torque.


That's why we use chrome supplies

Sent from my iPhone 10.5


----------



## jc-htownplumber

Flush it once to drain as much of the water as I can then have a small catch tray for the rest of the water


----------



## OldSchool

You guys were taught the wrong way ...

Flush it to remove the most you can then use a straw and suck up the rest ...

I find it taste a bit better if you put tang or kool aid or something like that in it...


----------



## 89plumbum

I prefer the blue crystals, kinda like a slushi.


----------



## plumberdad70

i prefer to use the straw when the house is on a well so you got all the slimmy chunks out of the bottom of the tank!!!!YUUUMMMMMMMYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!


----------



## iampaulinehowar

I have been doing everything wrong….It seems I will start over… thanks for the tips)


----------



## U666A

Paging Dr. RJ... :laughing:


----------



## rjbphd

iampaulinehowar said:


> I have been doing everything wrong&#133;.It seems I will start over&#133; thanks for the tips)


 Keep doinng it wrong til you become a liencsed plumber and post an intro..


----------



## U666A

Take your 430's and bend the last 1/2" of your sil-fos at 90°. It's a good warning that you're almost at the end when you're "in the zone", especially on bigger joints.


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

I can feel when the sil flos flows rite cuz when I push it in to fill I feel slight vibrations in the stick.


----------



## Mississippiplum

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> cuz when I push it in to fill I feel slight vibrations in the stick.


Twss

Sent from my iPhone 10.5


----------



## gear junkie

U666A said:


> Take your 430's and bend the last 1/2" of your sil-fos at 90°. It's a good warning that you're almost at the end when you're "in the zone", especially on bigger joints.


Just put the end on something and give a slight push, place the torch where you want the bend....no channelocks needed.


----------



## U666A

gear junkie said:


> Just put the end on something and give a slight push, place the torch where you want the bend....no channelocks needed.


Wise. Thanks GJ!


----------



## Big cheez

clear glue gets purple primer off of concrete...


----------



## rocksteady

Big cheez said:


> clear glue gets purple primer off of concrete...


 
I've always used heavy bodied grey PVC glue on concrete, black ABS glue if I spill on asphalt. :laughing:










Paul


----------



## moonapprentice

Fixing a hose that has leak.... Cut hose on each side of leak, stick 1/2 inch cpvc inside hose and use 2 hose clamps to tighten down. Done. Fantastic spray works well cleaning off excess silicone on finish trim. Change in your pocket to shim toilet on tile.


----------



## U666A

Did you really use the terms "cpvc" and "hose clamp" in the same "tip"?!?!?!?!? :no:


----------



## Big cheez

I tie a rag to the end of my cable to clear grease stoppages... Works every time.


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

Sure u do. U always razzing the new guys. I know uv rigged up something to get by. Hose on 2" pump to pump out ditches. I took 1 1/2 PVC and a no hub ripped off the bands and coupled the pump hose together Stiil on ther 3 years later. Helper broke the spade shovel. And we were in the thick of it. So a tire apart a no hub and clamped it in just the rite spots with duct tape too. Its still in the cage 6 years later.


----------



## U666A

Chu talking to me?


----------



## Hans B Shaver

had a cultured marble counter top. under counter mount sink. no replacement sink wold fit. got a self rimming sink and cut out the counter top to make fit with grinder and sawzall.made a tent of plastic and ran the vacuum will cutting.


----------



## rjbphd

Hans B Shaver said:


> had a cultured marble counter top. under counter mount sink. no replacement sink wold fit. got a self rimming sink and cut out the counter top to make fit with grinder and sawzall.made a tent of plastic and ran the vacuum will cutting.


 Still wandering in here without a proper intro???


----------



## Hans B Shaver

ware do I put it and what is a proper intro?


----------



## plbgbiz

Hans B Shaver said:


> ware do I put it and what is a proper intro?


Click here to post your intro thread>>> http://www.plumbingzone.com/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=3

A long standing tradition on the Plumbing Zone is for new members to first introduce themselves before jumping into other threads. Since this site is for Plumbing Professionals only, we appreciate getting to know who we are sharing trade specific information with.

Please review this post: * WHY POST AN INTRO* regarding introductions and then go to the introduction section to post yours.


----------



## lindahudek

If you're in a tight spot and need to shorten a piece of clay pipe in the ground, take a crescent wrench and tighten the jaws over the end pipe. You can snap the pipe this way, by moving the wrench all the way around the diameter of the pipe lip without creating gigantic cracks. It takes awhile, but saves a lot of headaches if you can't reach any more of the pipe.... I haven't read all of the tips, so sorry if this one was already posted. :thumbsup:


----------



## rjbphd

lindahudek said:


> If you're in a tight spot and need to shorten a piece of clay pipe in the ground, take a crescent wrench and tighten the jaws over the end pipe. You can snap the pipe this way, by moving the wrench all the way around the diameter of the pipe lip without creating gigantic cracks. It takes awhile, but saves a lot of headaches if you can't reach any more of the pipe.... I haven't read all of the tips, so sorry if this one was already posted. :thumbsup:[/QUOTE


----------



## Adamche

Dude....intro.....are you a plumber? Dude


----------



## rjbphd

CaprioDavis said:


> Dude ,
> 
> I had a GD leak after several attempts to install it. Found a slimy film on it and washed it off, stoped the leaking.


 Sont be so slimy about coming on here wiithout a proper intro??


----------



## ChrisConnor

Remember to check your draft on water heaters, especially before you change them. Be sure you know if there are any attic fans or vent hoods that might draw or force air down the vent. 

These fans might not be on when you are there, but may cause a problem later.

In 1999 I had my hair, beard, eyelashes and eyebrows flashed off by a water heater flame roll out caused by a poorly placed attic fan that was turned on just as I was checking the flame after lighting it.


----------



## JWBII

Well I'd like to share a couple of things. I just can't imagine they are new seeing as how long plumbing has been around and the amount of experience out there but nobody ever told me so who knows lol.

First I've set many a Fiat Terrazo Mop Sinks and being so heavy they are tough for a little guy like me to pick up and get over the pipe. What I did last time was cut the pipe below the floor and put a coupling in slightly below the m.s. Then pushed the fixture in place and glued the pipe through the hole from above. Cut it with an inside cutter then the rest was history. This was by far the easiest out of all this style of mop sinks I've set.

The second thing is of all the bi level drinking fountains I've done, all those years of fighting to tighten the slip nut on the trap arm into the wall was a real pita. This time I cut the trap arm to proper length. Installed it before mounting the fixture. Made quick work of the d.f. since it eliminated fighting with that stupid nut. No leaks once so ever since I could tighten it well without anything in the way.

If its been said before then I'm sorry to have repeated it. If it hasn't then I hope this helps someone cause had I been tipped onto these tricks as a helper it would have save a lot of headaches and time


----------



## Gettinit

JWBII said:


> Well I'd like to share a couple of things. I just can't imagine they are new seeing as how long plumbing has been around and the amount of experience out there but nobody ever told me so who knows lol.
> 
> First I've set many a Fiat Terrazo Mop Sinks and being so heavy they are tough for a little guy like me to pick up and get over the pipe. What I did last time was cut the pipe below the floor and put a coupling in slightly below the m.s. Then pushed the fixture in place and glued the pipe through the hole from above. Cut it with an inside cutter then the rest was history. This was by far the easiest out of all this style of mop sinks I've set.
> 
> The second thing is of all the bi level drinking fountains I've done, all those years of fighting to tighten the slip nut on the trap arm into the wall was a real pita. This time I cut the trap arm to proper length. Installed it before mounting the fixture. Made quick work of the d.f. since it eliminated fighting with that stupid nut. No leaks once so ever since I could tighten it well without anything in the way.
> 
> If its been said before then I'm sorry to have repeated it. If it hasn't then I hope this helps someone cause had I been tipped onto these tricks as a helper it would have save a lot of headaches and time



I like using skates for the bigger mop sinks. 

Ridgid makes a larger jaw capacity extension basin wrench. The wrench with those soft rubber beveled slip washers from WB is easy.


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

I set a lot if those mop sinks. Dolly it in. Set it on two pieces of 2" PVC slide it over the pipe and pull out the pipes from under it. A nail bar helps to keep it from slamming down. Same process with stone shower pans


----------



## JWBII

I'm assuming you are talking about the old 4 wheel skates.... Do they even still make those lol. I'll need to look for some some of those, sounds like they'd make life a lot easier.

TX I like your tip as well. I've done the pipe thing many a times myself.


----------



## Gettinit

JWBII said:


> I'm assuming you are talking about the old 4 wheel skates.... Do they even still make those lol. I'll need to look for some some of those, sounds like they'd make life a lot easier.
> 
> TX I like your tip as well. I've done the pipe thing many a times myself.


:laughing: They are special movers called skates. The HVAC boys use them.


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

Hillman rollers. We call them skates. Look at the six tons thread. He's moving a chiller on skates


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

Here ya go


----------



## Gettinit

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> Hillman rollers. We call them skates. Look at the six tons thread. He's moving a chiller on skates


They also make them in lighter duty sets. You can usually rent them.


----------



## Williamgris

*A Whole-House Media Air Cleaner*
Captures airborne particulates by using a fabric-type filter. As air passes through the filter media, the fibers of the fabric capture and trap the airborne contaminants. The media air cleaner is a whole-house approach to air purification, which can remove up to 97% of pollen, dust and other large particles.


----------



## rjbphd

Williamgris said:


> A Whole-House Media Air Cleaner
> Captures airborne particulates by using a fabric-type filter. As air passes through the filter media, the fibers of the fabric capture and trap the airborne contaminants. The media air cleaner is a whole-house approach to air purification, which can remove up to 97% of pollen, dust and other large particles.


 my x-mas jolly is overed... who the ffff are you??


----------



## Williamgris

*at rjbphd*

Who the AAA are you?? what the Hell you are doing in my Post??


----------



## U666A

Williamgris said:


> Who the AAA are you??


He's a well respected, vetted member of our friendly little community...

His query is valid.


----------



## rjbphd

Williamgris said:


> Who the AAA are you?? what the Hell you are doing in my Post??


Why im in your post? Because you didn't post a proper intro as request.


----------



## Adamche

Wondering if he is Clark W Griswold's brother:laughing:....shoitters full!


----------



## U666A

Adamche said:


> Wondering if he is Clark W Griswold's brother:laughing:....shoitters full!


:laughing:
Cousin Eddie!


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

rjbphd said:


> Why im in your post? Because you didn't post a proper intro as request.


I was looking real hard but I didn't think you could fit in a post ?? Can u rj. Are you a wizard ??


----------



## gilbertjeffrey

I save my lead rings and use them for toilet shims. you can make a whole bunch of shims from one ring. just cut of 1/2" and beat it with a hammer till its shim shaped.


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

Not bad does it ever leave any discoloration in dap or rust of any kind. Lead doesn't rust does it ??


----------



## gilbertjeffrey

I'm not gonna say lead won't oxidize, cause I know it will in certain environments, and I do notice a white powder on some of the older rings I demo out. But it wont turn green or anything like that. Besides, I like to use lead every chance I get... its part of our name after all.


----------



## sjaquay

Mike Jessome said:


> Silicone anything you teflon, put a beed of silicon on waste and over flows silicone po plugs throw away that putty use silicone, just don't forget to wipe away the excess.


i dont use silicone because if you have to take it back apart at a later date,good luck. but i do use both tape and compound on anything that touches water.


----------



## rjbphd

sjaquay said:


> i dont use silicone because if you have to take it back apart at a later date,good luck. but i do use both tape and compound on anything that touches water.


Well, if ya silicone the shot out of it, you won't be back to take it apart for whatever the reason.


----------



## Gettinit

sjaquay said:


> i dont use silicone because if you have to take it back apart at a later date,good luck. but i do use both tape and compound on anything that touches water.


You're about 4-1/2 years late on that one. :laughing:


----------



## PlumberJ

Intro?


----------



## rjbphd

DO NOT QUOTE SPAM 

If you know that much, why didn't you post an intro???


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

Sickem !!!!!


----------



## siphonjet

i put a small amount of dawn in bowl and dip my finger in it to wipe the silicone, gives me a nice smooth bead and doesn't stick o my finger


----------



## Gettinit

siphonjet said:


> i put a small amount of dawn in bowl and dip my finger in it to wipe the silicone, gives me a nice smooth bead and doesn't stick o my finger


Water is a catalyst for silicone and I hope its a new toilet.


----------



## plumberpro

denatured alcohol will do the same keep some in a spray bottle smooth out the silicone and let it the stuff evaporates quickly.


----------



## gilbertjeffrey

I reserve silicone for drain assemblies on cultured marble pans, setting faucets on natural stone, and tub wastes on fiberglass. The stuff is a pain in the a$$. I get into arguments all the time with my old boss from Canada who insists on everything silicone. He says putty is for the past. I spent less on putty than he does on silicone. Stayput For The Win!


----------



## A Fast Plumbing

*Bar Owner asked for an estimate.*

I was called to a bar / nite club once for drain work. Upon inspection I noticed a hardened material in the drains. I had seen this product before. In fact I had used it to seal a penetrations in the side of a cement septic tanks. It was Plumbers Dynamite. This stuff is sold in a 25 pound bulk box and is awsome. It heats as you mix water into it, sets very quickly and seals penetrations water proof. 

You should of seen the look on the clients face when I asked the question. "So how much do you owe the previous plumber? What assures me that you'll pay ME? 

Can you say "Dear in the headlights"? 

:laughing:


----------



## OldSchool

A Fast Plumbing said:


> I was called to a bar / nite club once for drain work. Upon inspection I noticed a hardened material in the drains. I had seen this product before. In fact I had used it to seal a penetrations in the side of a cement septic tanks. It was Plumbers Dynamite. This stuff is sold in a 25 pound bulk box and is awsome. It heats as you mix water into it, sets very quickly and seals penetrations water proof.
> 
> You should of seen the look on the clients face when I asked the question. "So how much do you owe the previous plumber? What assures me that you'll pay ME?
> 
> Can you say "Dear in the headlights"?
> 
> :laughing:


You may be fast ... But are you good ????


----------



## siphonjet

i like that i'll give it a try next chance i get


----------



## A Fast Plumbing

OldSchool said:


> You may be fast ... But are you good ????


Yes... At least that's what my clients tell me. Thank You.


----------



## AndrewCopper

A Fast Plumbing said:


> Yes... At least that's what my clients tell me. Thank You.


much better to be "SLOWLY but SURELY.
right?


----------



## copperhead

*cutting pipe for toilet flange*



easttexasplumb said:


> View attachment 15395
> 
> 
> Use socket savers to get pipes to finish height instead of internal cutters. Socket savers last longer and will not fall into the pipe, they are a little messy though.


On a slab I Just use a rag, hacksaw, hammer and a wood chisel.
make a cross cut on pipe, throw a rag over the pipe and inside pipe, and smack pipe with hammer from inside out. Use wood chisel to chip any remaining t:ts.  
Don't forget the rag.


----------



## ptrap

*Work Boot Laces*

When your work boots lace ends start fraying , cut them off right past the fray and slip over a pice of 3/8 to 3/32 heat shrink . You have a new end piece that makes lacing up your boots a bit easier.


----------



## Bigcim

ptrap said:


> When your work boots lace ends start fraying , cut them off right past the fray and slip over a pice of 3/8 to 3/32 heat shrink . You have a new end piece that makes lacing up your boots a bit easier.


red wings give you replacement laces for the life of the boot lol


----------



## johntheplumber

ptrap said:


> When your work boots lace ends start fraying , cut them off right past the fray and slip over a pice of 3/8 to 3/32 heat shrink . You have a new end piece that makes lacing up your boots a bit easier.


They are called aglets.


----------



## aprilmayb

johntheplumber said:


> They are called aglets.


If your talking about aglets, you've run out if things to talk about. Bed time.


----------



## TX MECH PLUMBER

Wtf is a aglet???

U the boss at home too?? Beddy time Jhon. Make sure u go titi first and brush ur teeth lol


----------



## johntheplumber

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> Wtf is a aglet???
> 
> U the boss at home too?? Beddy time Jhon. Make sure u go titi first and brush ur teeth lol


Aglets are the plastic tips on shoe laces. I wear the pants in this family... When Aprilmayb is not home.


----------



## A Fast Plumbing

*Verify Ownership of property before working on it.*

Need I say more. Always make sure the person that hires you to do a job has the right to do so. Even if the owner has authorized the tenant to get it done and pay you. You need some form of authorization to be on the property from the owner to even be on their property. Authorization can be a fax, email or letter. I have even accepted a voicemail along with a text but I'm not sure how legal it is. Keep until you get a payment and a signature.


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## phishfood

New tip: when the wife calls you to bed, go.


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## plbgbiz

phishfood said:


> New tip: when the wife calls you to bed, go.


Or at least go home.


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## piper1

phishfood said:


> New tip: when the wife calls you to bed, go.


 should have told me that years ago!!


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## plumber101us

wet rag to wipe your solder joints


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## love2surf927

plumber101us said:


> wet rag to wipe your solder joints


I wouldn't recommend this, unless you mean after its already cooled down. A little WD on a rag after cool works well.


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## pat

has anyone ever had luck rebuilding 3/4 NIBCO gate valve (replacing the gate)


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## Ron

pat said:


> has anyone ever had luck rebuilding 3/4 NIBCO gate valve (replacing the gate)


Yes do it all the time.


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## phishfood

pat said:


> has anyone ever had luck rebuilding 3/4 NIBCO gate valve (replacing the gate)


You will have better luck getting responses if you post up a detailed introduction in the intro section.


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## piper1

when telling a h.o. , i don't think trying to fix a 40 year faucet is a good idea. maybe you should replace it. and they insist on you replacing or trying a quick fix. write it on the invoice that you thought it was a bad idea. and there is no warranty on this work!!!! in bold print..


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## Plumb Bob

Do not chew your fingernails!


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## JK949

piper1 said:


> when telling a h.o. , i don't think trying to fix a 40 year faucet is a good idea. maybe you should replace it. and they insist on you replacing or trying a quick fix. write it on the invoice that you thought it was a bad idea. and there is no warranty on this work!!!! in bold print..


True this! Verbal warnings are worth the paper they're written on.


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## Phat Cat

JK949 said:


> True this! Verbal warnings are worth the paper they're written on.


Sometimes it's better to just walk away from the job. Even if a H.O. has signed off on a temp. repair, they will still have remorse later, and blame the plumber. :yes:

We walked away from one the other day. H.O. wanted to move her hose bibb approximately 15'. To save money, she wanted us to run it on the outside of her home. :no:


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## gilbertjeffrey

I do hose Bibb mods like that all the time here in Hawaii. 
Frost?


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## PlungerJockey

Don't do any work you cannot warranty. You and your customers will be happier.


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## piper1

PlungerJockey said:


> Don't do any work you cannot warranty. You and your customers will be happier.


 thst's good, i'm going to say it just like that. to the h/o


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## Phat Cat

gilbertjeffrey said:


> I do hose Bibb mods like that all the time here in Hawaii.
> Frost?


:yes: 

In addition, it would not look very attractive running blue PEX & securing it to the brick. Better off buying a longer hose in that case. :yes:


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## reaganfleming1

One of the best plumbing tips involves a common food found in the kitchen. While soldering, if a water line exhibits a tiny drip, the plumber can take a piece of white bread, peel off the crust, and roll it carefully into a tight ball. The ball of bread can then be placed inside the pipe where the drip is coming from, blocking it and absorbing the water. Once the work has been completed and the water turned on, the bread will wash down the drain.


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## rjbphd

reaganfleming1 said:


> One of the best plumbing tips involves a common food found in the kitchen. While soldering, if a water line exhibits a tiny drip, the plumber can take a piece of white bread, peel off the crust, and roll it carefully into a tight ball. The ball of bread can then be placed inside the pipe where the drip is coming from, blocking it and absorbing the water. Once the work has been completed and the water turned on, the bread will wash down the drain.


 Not a plumber here, didn't post intro again.


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## theplumbinator

reaganfleming1 said:


> One of the best plumbing tips involves a common food found in the kitchen. While soldering, if a water line exhibits a tiny drip, the plumber can take a piece of white bread, peel off the crust, and roll it carefully into a tight ball. The ball of bread can then be placed inside the pipe where the drip is coming from, blocking it and absorbing the water. Once the work has been completed and the water turned on, the bread will wash down the drain.


If you're a real plumber then why not grab a jet sweat from the truck instead of wasting your lunch on a leak?


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## Retroloco-LJ

Ron said:


> Wash hands before you eat.


And after you go to the bathroom :thumbsup:

Retroloco-LJ
____________________
Don't kill the dream, execute it. 
http://fhfurr.com


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## Retroloco-LJ

user4 said:


> I would not be using silicone for anything connected to potable water, some silicones can leach into the water system.


I'm so glad to hear that some are cautious about potable water... You just never know. 

Retroloco-LJ
___________________
Don't kill the dream, execute it. 
http://fhfurr.com


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## theplumbinator

Retroloco-LJ said:


> I'm so glad to hear that some are cautious about potable water... You just never know.
> 
> Retroloco-LJ
> ___________________
> Don't kill the dream, execute it.
> http://fhfurr.com


We should all be cautious of potable water. Thats the reason we are educated, trained for 5 years, & licenced to be able to touch potable water systems. Why bother having people go through that if we weren't careful about this issue? People had to get sick and die for all those regulations to be put into effect. So it was a real problem in the past. We also have to assume liability for our work. Also carry insurance for human error. How often do you read about people being poisoned by the work of a licenced plumber these days? Very rarely. "Plumbers are expected to protect the health of the nation" I know I do anytime I'm called upon for my services.


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## Plumb Bob

Retroloco-LJ said:


> And after you go to the bathroom :thumbsup:


And depending on what you have been working on, wash your hands before you go to the bathroom. :thumbup:


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## mapabu1026

*Solder*



Bill said:


> Got me to thinking on another post.
> Mine? when soldering keep a small spray bottle filled with water.


I do the same. Never know what could catch. I'd rather be prepared. Especially in a tight spot.


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## rjbphd

mapabu1026 said:


> I do the same. Never know what could catch. I'd rather be prepared. Especially in a tight spot.


About you getting out of the tight spot by posting a full intro besides saying just 'hi'???


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## gilbertjeffrey

I fricking hate people who stuff bread in water pipes, or anything else. I have on more that one occasion had to remove an angle stop to remove the bread stuck in it from the previous plumber. One time I had to track down some type of fibrous fabric that the previous "plumber" thought was ok to stuff in the pipe to make the joint. it got stuck in a manifold blocking water volume to 1/3 the house. bottom line, if you can't figure out how to solder a line with a slow flow and think bread is ok, you need more education.


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## Redwood

reaganfleming1 said:


> One of the best plumbing tips involves a common food found in the kitchen. While soldering, if a water line exhibits a tiny drip, the plumber can take a piece of white bread, peel off the crust, and roll it carefully into a tight ball. The ball of bread can then be placed inside the pipe where the drip is coming from, blocking it and absorbing the water. Once the work has been completed and the water turned on, the bread will wash down the drain.


I stayed at a Holiday Inn once...
Now I know all about plumbing....

But I never shared my lunch with a pipe...:blink:


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## Courtg

*Mod?*



Airgap said:


> Simple, but effective. If you've got a lot of DWV to do, take some duct tape, and glue you're quart cans of primer and glue together. It's surprisingly handy.


I take either some cpvc pipe and a couple 90s or a flat metal piece (hold-rite bracket-my choice :thumbup and make a handle before I use the duct tape. Make a nice carrying handle and/or place to hang it while working on AGS.


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## Courtg

*The force?*



Redwood said:


> The Force is With You!:thumbup:
> I was at a volunteer fire department meeting one night and I blew out a good one...
> 
> I cleared the meeting hall with 150 people in it!
> They were bailing out of every exit...
> Nobody went back in for about 10 minutes...
> 
> Thats Power!:thumbup:
> 
> I can fart next to a septic tank with the lid off outside and you will know it!


So I was tapping a sewer downtown, the contractor was standing there gabbing away. Nick's on the machine, I'm spotting for the pipe. We are getting pretty low with the back-hoe. The contractor yells "I think you hit the sewer!!!" I bust out laughing, Nick looks at me and bust out cuz he knew I just let'er rip!


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## theplumbinator

Courtg said:


> I take either some cpvc pipe and a couple 90s or a flat metal piece (hold-rite bracket-my choice :thumbup and make a handle before I use the duct tape. Make a nice carrying handle and/or place to hang it while working on AGS.


Or for $4.99 you can buy one of these. Had mine for the last 8 years, never duct tape my cans together again since.


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## johnh

JK949 said:


> True this! Verbal warnings are worth the paper they're written on.


the faintest ink is brighter than the sharpest memory.


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## ASUPERTECH

user4 said:


> I would not be using silicone for anything connected to potable water, some silicones can leach into the water system.


I've had to use it on 3 compartment commercial sinks basket strainers. 1st time I put it together w/ putty & it leaked. Not sure if there was something up with the sink or my putty, or maybe the temp. of the water. But silicone fixed it all up. Haven't used it since, and don't like to it's tuff to clean up... Use NOSTAIN putty now almost exclusively.


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## ASUPERTECH

Use 3-4 3/4" galvanized caps as "legs" under my w.h. installs.


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## ASUPERTECH

break handle off of fitting brush to insert into cordless drill


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## love2surf927

ASUPERTECH said:


> break handle off of fitting brush to insert into cordless drill


A lot cheaper than the ones made to go in the chuck, I do that too.


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## love2surf927

ASUPERTECH said:


> I've had to use it on 3 compartment commercial sinks basket strainers. 1st time I put it together w/ putty & it leaked. Not sure if there was something up with the sink or my putty, or maybe the temp. of the water. But silicone fixed it all up. Haven't used it since, and don't like to it's tuff to clean up... Use NOSTAIN putty now almost exclusively.


I use mostly putty as well but silicone has its uses definitlely but we won't go there, mineral spirits work great for clean up.


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## O.C. plumberman

I don't know if this has been thrown out here before but sand paper takes the metal inking from a auger on to porcelain off a porcelain toilet :whistling2:
Also use a sponge when you caulk a fixture it makes life easier :whistling2:


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## Eddie77

Courtg said:


> I take either some cpvc pipe and a couple 90s or a flat metal piece (hold-rite bracket-my choice :thumbup and make a handle before I use the duct tape. Make a nice carrying handle and/or place to hang it while working on AGS.


Is there a way to make a hanger for your belt? I've tried a couple different ways to no avail.


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## AlbacoreShuffle

ASUPERTECH said:


> Use 3-4 3/4" galvanized caps as "legs" under my w.h. installs.


Why ?


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## Turd Chaser

AlbacoreShuffle said:


> Why ?


yes, why


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## ASUPERTECH

AlbacoreShuffle said:


> Why ?


Why not, what do you use? If heater is in a pan?


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## ASUPERTECH

Turd Chaser said:


> yes, why


1. Bottom of heater must be above the invert of the drain supplied. 
2. In condos, many times the a/c condensate drain & pan drain are connected, making for water regularly backing up into the w.h. pan. Seen first hand where heater is set directly into pan heaters rot out quick.


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## Victor90

ASUPERTECH said:


> Why not, what do you use? If heater is in a pan?


Hand truck and muscle. Shims to make it level so I can make some art with copper


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## ASUPERTECH

Redwood said:


> I stayed at a Holiday Inn once...
> Now I know all about plumbing....
> 
> But I never shared my lunch with a pipe...:blink:


I've shared my lunch with a pipe, in fact every morning about 6a.m. I get real generous with my homes 3" C.I. , & seen first hand where it had shared what I gave it with some 4"abs, lost track of it after that...


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## Victor90

ASUPERTECH said:


> 1. Bottom of heater must be above the invert of the drain supplied.
> 2. In condos, many times the a/c condensate drain & pan drain are connected, making for water regularly backing up into the w.h. pan. Seen first hand where heater is set directly into pan heaters rot out quick.


Never heard anything about bottom of heater, only know about the prv air gap requirement.


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## ASUPERTECH

Victor90 said:


> Never heard anything about bottom of heater, only know about the prv air gap requirement.


Don't have to use galv.. caps, bricks, pavers, copper, cpvc, are ok, even used sprinkler doughnuts before.


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## redbeardplumber

asupertech said:


> i've shared my lunch with a pipe, in fact every morning about 6a.m. I get real generous with my homes 3" c.i. , & seen first hand where it had shared what i gave it with some 4"abs, lost track of it after that...


wtf


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## ASUPERTECH

redbeardplumber said:


> wtf


What & you don't?


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## redbeardplumber

^^^^ have no idea what you r talking about.lol


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## plbgbiz

^^^ Doesn't recognize vague references to going #2. :laughing:


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## redbeardplumber

Haha ok. Re read. Cold up here. Brain. Is . Frozen. Lol


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## Redwood

redbeardplumber said:


> Haha ok. Re read. Cold up here. Brain. Is . Frozen. Lol


The conversation went from stuffing bread in a pipe to hold back water while sweating to talking shiot in a hurry...:laughing:


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## plbgbiz

Umashankar said:


> hi guys.
> can anybody share plumbings checklists, commissioning check list etc


No, we can't.


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## rjbphd

Umashankar said:


> hi guys.
> can anybody share plumbings checklists, commissioning check list etc


Sure... post your credit card number


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## 4Aces Plumbing

Careful with that bread trick.. An apprentice I showed that to tried it later on.. Unfortunatly it was on a boiler system, and by the looks of the Y-strainers when I pulled them he used about 1/2 a loaf to get the drip stopped..


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## stillaround

Here is a tip: whenever doing repairs, make it a habit to know where the water meter/shutoff for the building is. That way you can avoid wandering in the dark desperately, getting a phone recording menu from after hours emergency utilities, property damage, and of course embarrassment.........just sayin :yes::furious:


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## plbgbiz

stillaround said:


> Here is a tip: whenever doing repairs, make it a habit to know where the water meter/shutoff for the building is. That way you can avoid wandering in the dark desperately, getting a phone recording menu from after hours emergency utilities, property damage, and of course embarrassment.........just sayin :yes::furious:


Didn't read that one in a book eh?


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## dclarke

Today I learned while its not technically the proper way I like it...I was changing an inside 3" pipe flange on a slab that was broken and the previous plumber didn't use primer. I was glad that he didn't because that flange came out pretty easy because it wasn't a proper glue joint. Doubt it would ever leak and if there's water that high to leak he has other issues anyways.


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## finkous

I read a few posts about the spray bottle beside ya when soldering... I too have this but the other day I was soldering and I had a bit too much flux on my joint and when the flame hit it the flux caught fire and flared up more than usual and dripped a flame onto the wall, i grabbed my water bottle and squirted the flame, had dumb moment and not realizing that flux is a grease and the water actually spread the flame out further... yikes, so grabbed my rag and smothered the flame.... it wasn't an outrageous flame, but still took me off guard the same. since then I have noticed this flux that I am using ignites easily and sometimes blows back a flame out the end of the pipe that i'm soldering. I now carry one of those small kitchen one time use extinguishers as well, fits easier in my solder bag and easier to carry in rather than the big extinguishers


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## rickyjames123

#Ron ha ha ha nice reply....


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## SSP

Silicone?? Cut small angle tip on tube ... run a tiny bead, dip your finger in water then run it over the seam ... cleans it up nice and toilet water and paper towels are usually pretty cheap 

Never Dry-Fit any Plastic Piping, measure twice cut once, glue as you go

Soldering?? Some people mentioned spray bottles, but i'm a grown man who doesn't water flowers, so i use an old water bottle and use a screw to drive a small hole in the cap... take the screw out and BAM cheapest spray bottle ever and its perfectly optimized to displace water directly where you want it...

I always heat up a copper fitting and use it to burn a hole in my Flux Lid (remove the lid first ...) and leave my brushes in there, clean flux means no leaks

I avoid wholesaler trips like the plague because time is money... so i make extremely accurate estimates.. so i can use that estimate as an actual material list that i have ordered to sites to arrive when i do around 7 a.m.

Record and document EVERYTHING... may come in handy one day ... 

Your only as good as your tools and employees so treat them all right and they should perform up to your expectations... 

Oh and never ever ever ever ever try to bullsh!t a contractor or homeowner on a problem they have that you can't figure out a solution for... the old saying 
"if You can't bedazzle them with your brilliance baffle them with bu11sh!t" Need not apply... people are smarter than you think and it makes you look like an idiot in later streets, discredits your company, and overall dis-honesty is bad business... 

Tell them straight up i am not experienced in this field enough to properly diagnose the symptoms your system is experiencing ... let me refer you to someone who can help... *insert plug here* *Perhaps SSP*


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING

For those who use sharkbites - 


ALWAYS before inserting piping into sharkbite push-fit connection; small amount of food grade silicone on the plastic sleeve along with the O-ring. 

Randomly use sharkbites but when I did before the grease, a connection would leak upon install for no apparent reason. I believe a dry socket was allowing the O-ring to grab the piping's wall and 'roll' the O-ring slightly causing a distortion. 

Ever since I've used the plumber's grease in this fashion the problem has stopped along with socket push being far easier than before, even in tight space considerations.


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## sparky

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> For those who use sharkbites -
> 
> 
> ALWAYS before inserting piping into sharkbite push-fit connection; small amount of food grade silicone on the plastic sleeve along with the O-ring.
> 
> Randomly use sharkbites but when I did before the grease, a connection would leak upon install for no apparent reason. I believe a dry socket was allowing the O-ring to grab the piping's wall and 'roll' the O-ring slightly causing a distortion.
> 
> Ever since I've used the plumber's grease in this fashion the problem has stopped along with socket push being far easier than before, even in tight space considerations.


yep,know exactly what you are talking about,been there before....:thumbup:


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## plumbdrum

sparky said:


> yep,know exactly what you are talking about,been there before....:thumbup:


A better solution to the problem is don't use sharkbites

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


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## sparky

plumbdrum said:


> A better solution to the problem is don't use sharkbites
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


They like everything else have their place and time on when to use them::yes:


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## Stptog

Optimus Primer said:


> If your pipe rack on the van is too high for you to reach so you can tie the pipe down, use one if those boat tie down things. Works great.


Its called a cleat but you probably knew that.

Loving all these plumbing tips! keep them coming please, this is invaluable to newer plumbers like myself. Thanks!

I remember when my father finally showed me I could cut the handle of my fitting brushes, stick in drill, and away we go... kickass I thought. But dont let your apprentices in on it, untill they've fully appreciated the cramping hand turn method, next thing you know they will be busting out the drill to clean two fittings!:thumbup:


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## joeburgio

On every shut of valve Teflon is a must...


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## Tommy plumber

*Hello! Introduction Requested* 
An intro is requested from all new members. In case you missed it, here is the link. http://www.plumbingzone.com/f3/.

The PZ is for Plumbing Professionals ( those engaged in the plumbing profession)

Post an intro and tell our members where you are from, yrs in the trade, and your area(s) of expertise in the plumbing field.

This info helps members who are waiting to welcome you to the best plumbing site there is.

We look forward to your valuable input.


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## plumbtekkk

your sh*t is my bread and butter


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## plumbtekkk

it's allways fun removing a basket strainer that's been siliconed.


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## dhal22

Stptog said:


> Its called a cleat but you probably knew that.
> 
> Loving all these plumbing tips! keep them coming please, this is invaluable to newer plumbers like myself. Thanks!
> 
> I remember when my father finally showed me I could cut the handle of my fitting brushes, stick in drill, and away we go... kickass I thought. But dont let your apprentices in on it, untill they've fully appreciated the cramping hand turn method, next thing you know they will be busting out the drill to clean two fittings!:thumbup:


I was a helper in '85 and sometime around then was given a new fangled thing for my birthday called a battery drill. It took me a few minutes to figure out I could cut a fitting brush and polish fittings easier, faster and brighter than ever before. My plumber was backed up with clean fittings for miles............ Everybody loved the idea.

David


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## KoleckeINC

Flared underground fittings are always easier to tighten after you've torched them. 

I ptfe tape around all tubular washers as insurance. Fill all tubs up to the overflows when I test and only use putty tape and paste on the strainer and only putty behind overflow gasket as insurance. 99% of the time no leaks 1st try. 

Looped the torch hose through the striker so I can't lose it. 

A leaf blower pointed out the window with towels stuffed around it makes short work of dust cleanup. 

Box Fans will dry a wet floor in minutes after a booboo and feel great when working in a hot attic or job with no ac. Wish we had one when I was apprenticing.

The shop vac works great for removing most of the water in a galv system before you cut it.

The end


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## Debo22

Use the forward facing camera on your phone for an inspection mirror


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