# OK! I've had it with the purple primer!



## wyoredman (Oct 10, 2013)

That's right, I've had it up to here with the purple primer! 

I am looking for some suggestions on a single weld solvent/combo glue that I can convince my local inspector to approve for PVC DWV!

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! 

The purple mess has to go!


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## PlungerJockey (Feb 19, 2010)

Good Luck with that.

Try getting clear primer and adding purple dye, he would probaly go for that.


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## wyoredman (Oct 10, 2013)

Just finished a new rough in, looks great except for the mess I made with the primer.:furious:

And to top it off, the lid came off a can of the nasty stuff an spilled into one of my fitting boxes. Noticed a terrible smell in my supply trailer. Ruined $60 worth of 2" elbows! Turned them into purple rubber!

CRAP! I HATE PURPLE PRIMER!


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

wyoredman said:


> That's right, I've had it up to here with the purple primer!
> 
> I am looking for some suggestions on a single weld solvent/combo glue that I can convince my local inspector to approve for PVC DWV!
> 
> ...


Ya not doing it right


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## jmc12185 (Aug 27, 2013)

If you learn how to work with it, you can make it look very professional and better than clear primer.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


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## wyoredman (Oct 10, 2013)

jmc12185 said:


> If you learn how to work with it, you can make it look very professional and better than clear primer.


OK, I'm now open to suggestions on the correct application of purple primer.

Here is my method, tell me how to improve:

1) Dip primer swab in can, use can mouth to "squeeze" out extra prime;
2) swab each fitting socket prior with primer, swab pipe end with primer
3) swab fitting with glue, swab pipe with glue (after primer has ran down the pipe when I picked it up to apply glue!)
4) place pipe in fitting socket, hold
5) next!

What am I doing wrong?


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

wyoredman said:


> OK, I'm now open to suggestions on the correct application of purple primer.
> 
> Here is my method, tell me how to improve:
> 
> ...


Ya not using the folding ruler


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## jmc12185 (Aug 27, 2013)

Use gravity to your advantage. Hold pipe angled down till it dries to the point where it won't run. Also, I don't work with a full can. A half a can gives you room to get a lot of the extra primer off the dauber in the can. I only prime enough up the pipe as needed. I like to have a nice purple ring around the fitting on the pipe. Beautiful. Nothing looks worse than purple primer running all over the place.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


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## wyoredman (Oct 10, 2013)

> A half a can gives you room to get a lot of the extra primer off the dauber in the can.


jmc, that makes sense, thanks.

rj, I told you in my intro, we use knotted rawhide out here on the reservation, no folding rulers!



> Nothing looks worse than purple primer running all over the place.


AMEN! That's why I HATE PURPLE PRIMER!


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

when we did construction work, I used to just take a quart of heavy duty glue and mix in the purple primer... 

7/8 quart of glue to 1/8 of primer seemed to fool the inspectors


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## wyoredman (Oct 10, 2013)

Master Mark, would your fittings hold and pass a stack test (or pressure test) using the mixture?

All I need is a "false primered fitting" to fail on the stack test!

Thanks.


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

rjbphd said:


> Ya not using the folding ruler


*What folding rule is better when you dump a can of purple primer on it?*

*White or Yellow? ROTFLMAO*


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

Master Mark said:


> when we did construction work, I used to just take a quart of heavy duty glue and mix in the purple primer...
> 
> 7/8 quart of glue to 1/8 of primer seemed to fool the inspectors


*Story here about a NJ Inspector saying to a plumbing contractor. Best looking PVC job I ever saw, so neat. Now tear it out and redo the job you won't mix glue and primer on my jobs.*


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## crown36 (May 21, 2013)

wyoredman said:


> That's right, I've had it up to here with the purple primer!
> 
> I am looking for some suggestions on a single weld solvent/combo glue that I can convince my local inspector to approve for PVC DWV!
> 
> ...


 Learn to be neater with your G & P. Simple as that.


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## mccmech (Jul 6, 2011)

As mentioned previously, tilt the pipe with the open end facing down as you primer it. Gravity is a *****. Also, use a smaller can for small fittings & larger can for big fittings. The daubers are sized nicely for the respective fitting hubs. I usually only primer the pipe the thickness of my dauber. No need to paint the whole thing! ;-). With that method, by the time I insert the pipe into the fitting it leaves that nice, crisp primer ring right around the joint where fitting ends on the pipe. You do what ya want but my work looks sexy!


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

Old daubers work way better than new ones. 

I keep the old can, and add about a quarter can from the new one. I never take a full new can into a house.


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

1. Pour a little out

2. Shake some primer out into a box or the can

3. Tilt pipe

4. Holding the cap in your palm, hold stem with thumb and index finger.

5. Paint neatly around pipe

6. Let air dry it a bit

7. Align letters on pipe facing out.


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

wyoredman said:


> Just finished a new rough in, looks great except for the mess I made with the primer.:furious: And to top it off, the lid came off a can of the nasty stuff an spilled into one of my fitting boxes. Noticed a terrible smell in my supply trailer. Ruined $60 worth of 2" elbows! Turned them into purple rubber! CRAP! I HATE PURPLE PRIMER!


Save em for groundwork


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## timrath (Sep 28, 2013)

Nah guys I got the best method.
Put the primer and glue in a bucket with paper towels. Take dauber with primer and dab it into paper towels then prime pipe and fitting. Then do the same with glue. Make sure to glue the pipe end first and then the fitting because if you glue fitting first the pipe pushes the glue inside the fitting compromising the solvent weld. Always pipe first then fitting a lot of manufacturers specify that on glue containers. Also wipe the joint after. Also use the smallest size glue container for 1 1/2"-2", next size up for 3" and the largest size for 4" and up


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## timrath (Sep 28, 2013)

Also I always tighten my glue containers with pliars


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

timrath said:


> Also I always tighten my glue containers with pliars


Pliers?


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

I call them offset..


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

timrath said:


> Also I always tighten my glue containers with pliars










Same here, I snug the glue cans with channelocks when I'm done.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

I put a lot of effort into neat and clean primer joints when I have absolutely no other concerns on the job related to timing, water tight results, passing inspections, and a job that lasts for decades. Being a Primer Picasso is cool for pictures on the PZ but in the grand scheme of things, it matters not to me.

If someone wants to complain about the ugliness of government mandated purple primer, they can line up behind the complaints about 1 gallon toilets connected to 5 gallon sewers.


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

plbgbiz said:


> Being a Primer Picasso


Lololololol


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

*Anybody ever use gluepots?*

*Dropped these a couple of times as long as you got in the habit of locking in the daubber no, spilling. You could also buy them with a brush for **e.g. painting primer on tub liners, walls when I had the Re-Bath franchise. Worked good especially when running big 6 & 8" PVC.*


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## PlungerJockey (Feb 19, 2010)

I've never seen one of those. Is the pot made of plastic, seems like the primer or glue would eat it up.


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## jmc12185 (Aug 27, 2013)

It does not take any extra time at all to make the purple primer look professional. It's just that little something that will make your jobs look much better than others.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

One of the first things I learned when I started plumbing is put the lid on your glue and primer after each use before you go on to the next step. When I haven't done that I have kicked it over. 

I keep them in a wash basin while using. That way a spill won't matter.


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## Cal (Jun 17, 2008)

ALWAYS in a bucket on finish work or service call . 

Best thing I've bought since going almost all service : 

http://www.northshorecare.com/underpads1.html

These things are put on every base cabinet or under toilet pulled or to lay tools on etc,etc ! Very absorbent if , God forbid , need be. 

I also wrap my folding rules in them for safety. ;-)


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## Gryphon Plumber (Jun 3, 2012)

wyoredman said:


> Just finished a new rough in, looks great except for the mess I made with the primer.:furious: And to top it off, the lid came off a can of the nasty stuff an spilled into one of my fitting boxes. Noticed a terrible smell in my supply trailer. Ruined $60 worth of 2" elbows! Turned them into purple rubber! CRAP! I HATE PURPLE PRIMER!


Those fittings would have become rubber with clear primer too, but I sympathies with you Mass even with all it's extra rules actually allowed clear primer.


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## PathMaker (May 10, 2013)

*un purple primer*

Is this allowed by the inspectors in your area?


http://www.oatey.com/products/plast...aners/unpurple-primer-for-pvc-and-cpvc-cement


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## Gryphon Plumber (Jun 3, 2012)

jmc12185 said:


> If you learn how to work with it, you can make it look very professional and better than clear primer. Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


You can make it look professional, but never BETTER than clear primer.


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## PathMaker (May 10, 2013)

just ziptie a small UV flashlight to your stack test if you cant meet the inspector at the job site

I found a number of documents online stating that such and such an area finds this to be in compliance to the code requiring purple primers. which area are you in?


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## jmc12185 (Aug 27, 2013)

When they first started enforcing the purple primer I absolutely hated it. But after getting use to it I actually prefer it over clear. You always know the fittings are in all the way without any doubts and in the end I like the way it looks.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


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## PlumbStax (Apr 19, 2013)

We use the one step glue/primer (blue) and the inspectors always are fine with it. That's Kansas though.


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

Cal said:


> ALWAYS in a bucket on finish work or service call .
> 
> Best thing I've bought since going almost all service :
> 
> ...


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

When I did new resi construction, all of our fittings were sent out still in the Charlotte boxes. After holing out, I would sweep up and all the sawdust and wood shavings would go into a Charlotte box. The box would go room to room with me, and when I was stacking, I would shake the primer dauber into the box to get the excess off. The sawdust and wood shavings absorbed the primer, so there was no mess. I know some plumbers who just shake the dauber onto the OSB deck. It gets covered up anyway.


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## jnohs (Jan 27, 2012)

Master Mark said:


> when we did construction work, I used to just take a quart of heavy duty glue and mix in the purple primer...
> 
> 7/8 quart of glue to 1/8 of primer seemed to fool the inspectors


That is amazing!!!! not exactly correct but still very cool.


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## engineure (Aug 28, 2013)

UV primer can be used in some states. I have better test results and very little mess with it.


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## TXPlumbBob (Dec 13, 2013)

I had a plumber that wrote his initials on everything in purple primer. If they ever take a house down he did they will damn sure know he was there. It kinda bugged me a little but his work was spot on and straight, plumb and square so I did not bust his balls about it. And he was fast even taking the time to write in primer. Underground=covered in concrete. Topout=covered by sheetrock. By the time we get to setting fixtures it was clear primer all the way. No more purple was even allowed on the truck.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

TXPlumbBob said:


> I had a plumber that wrote his initials on everything in purple primer. If they ever take a house down he did they will damn sure know he was there. It kinda bugged me a little but his work was spot on and straight, plumb and square so I did not bust his balls about it. And he was fast even taking the time to write in primer. Underground=covered in concrete. Topout=covered by sheetrock. By the time we get to setting fixtures it was clear primer all the way. No more purple was even allowed on the truck.


 The old saying " autograph your work" is better than ' Kilroy was here'..


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

I use clear. It works. I don't get why it's even mandated purple us some states. You can tell when a joint is primed in clear as well. Just have to look closer


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## Letterrip (Jul 28, 2013)

RW Plumbing said:


> I use clear. It works. I don't get why it's even mandated purple us some states. You can tell when a joint is primed in clear as well. Just have to look closer


I make it a point to meet my inspector on every inspection. We can track our inspectors online. It is VERY common for the inspector to have 15+ stops in a day. Pretty sure they appreciate that purple so that they don't have to get up close to every joint to know what was done. A quick glance tells them that primer was used.


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

I use clear on ABS. The purple didn't show all that well.


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

wyoredman said:


> Master Mark, would your fittings hold and pass a stack test (or pressure test) using the mixture?
> 
> All I need is a "false primered fitting" to fail on the stack test!
> 
> Thanks.


 
A long time ago way back in the late 80s....
we used to duct tape a pruple primer can and a glue can together so you did not constntly have to reach for one or the other...... and the daubers would always get mixed up getting purple into the glue..and vice versa...... 

being home construction, after a while you realized it was a mute issue....




in this state a water test is not required ..
Unless you are doing high pressure with the sch40 pvc pipe its not gonna be an issue... ....


I have always over-glued the pvc pipe.... I always load up the socket with glue and the male pipe too,,...wipe off the excess.. 

Also a long time ago, there was a debate about only glueing the male end of the pipe because the excess glue would get down into the pipe and supposidly restrict the flow of the water...I assume that most guys glue both the male and female ends of the pipe for greater jiont strength.

today clear primer is ok to use in this state because of
the god awful mess that the purple causes....


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

I dripped a few drops of purple on a OC60 once. I tried to clean it with soap. I scratched my head and a lightbulb went on over my head. I used clear primer to remove it.


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

*From the archives*



MTDUNN said:


> I use clear on ABS. The purple didn't show all that well.


Go into tag search type in abs/pvc then hit search. 
WHEN YOU GET IT UP GO TO POST #38 ... I used black on that PVC ?? Used thousands of feet of it, never had any failures.


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

MTDUNN said:


> I dripped a few drops of purple on a OC60 once. I tried to clean it with soap. I scratched my head and a lightbulb went on over my head. I used clear primer to remove it.


 
I keep a can of clear primer in my truck...
.and no one knows for sure wether I actually use it or not........


after we ruined a 4500 kitchen floor one time 
due to a spill, I just stay away from it ...........


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

They should make a disappearing ink


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## engineure (Aug 28, 2013)

Ever try UV primer, it is approved in my state (NC.)


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

*Hello! Introduction Requested* 
An intro is requested from all new members. In case you missed it, here is the link. http://www.plumbingzone.com/f3/.

The PZ is for Plumbing Professionals ( those engaged in the plumbing profession)

Post an intro and tell our members where you are from, yrs in the trade, and your area(s) of expertise in the plumbing field.

This info helps members who are waiting to welcome you to the best plumbing site there is.

We look forward to your valuable input.


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## jmc12185 (Aug 27, 2013)

The dumbest part about our code is that we are mandated to use purple primer and than we also have to do a water test. If it holds under all that pressure, what does it matter if primer was used or not. I always use primer anyway but if a water test is required, we should be able to use clear.

Sent from my iPhone using PlumbingZone


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## LIQUID (Sep 26, 2013)

MTDUNN said:


> I use clear on ABS. The purple didn't show all that well.


I assume you are talking for a transition joint? Also using excessive primer on the pipe wall ( apparantlly ) fatigues the pipe. ( weakens it )


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

LIQUID said:


> I assume you are talking for a transition joint? Also using excessive primer on the pipe wall ( apparantlly ) fatigues the pipe. ( weakens it )


There is no PVC in here. We use a bucket, no brushes and dip the pipe in a bucket of primer then in a bucket if glue.


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## LIQUID (Sep 26, 2013)

I am wondering why you use primer on abs. The only time you need tonprime abs ( and that depends o the Individual ) is if you are making a transition between pvc and abs with transition glue. And that's only par the Instructions on the transition glue


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

LIQUID said:


> I am wondering why you use primer on abs. The only time you need tonprime abs ( and that depends o the Individual ) is if you are making a transition between pvc and abs with transition glue. And that's only par the Instructions on the transition glue


ABS is slightly larger than their fittings. The ABS primer shrinks it a little if you dip in bucket for 2 minutes. It then expands to make a good seal in the fitting


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## love2surf927 (Dec 22, 2011)

MTDUNN said:


> ABS is slightly larger than their fittings. The ABS primer shrinks it a little if you dip in bucket for 2 minutes. It then expands to make a good seal in the fitting


???? Not following you here, I use exclusively ABS here too and I'm not clear what you're saying here. Not sure if your ABS or fittings are different there but I have never used primer and manufacturers instructions say nothing about it as far as I know. So you're saying the pipe won't go in the fitting unless it's primed?? Never had that problem. They always go in about 2/3 of the way when dry fit if they're clean.


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

love2surf927 said:


> ???? Not following you here, I use exclusively ABS here too and I'm not clear what you're saying here. Not sure if your ABS or fittings are different there but I have never used primer and manufacturers instructions say nothing about it as far as I know. So you're saying the pipe won't go in the fitting unless it's primed?? Never had that problem. They always go in about 2/3 of the way when dry fit if they're clean.


That's right it don't fit. Need to soak in primer. Then use stove bolts to keep it from popping out


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## LIQUID (Sep 26, 2013)

Transition glue says to prime pipes first. Though I doubt it makes a difference for abs really. And I've never experienced an abs fitting not fitting proper on the pipe


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## love2surf927 (Dec 22, 2011)

MTDUNN said:


> That's right it don't fit. Need to soak in primer. Then use stove bolts to keep it from popping out


I'll have to try that that technique lol.


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

LIQUID said:


> Transition glue says to prime pipes first. Though I doubt it makes a difference for abs really. And I've never experienced an abs fitting not fitting proper on the pipe


 I would never use transition glue. That's just me. I use banded transition ferncos or Proflex couplings. 

Also I'm pulling your chain on priming ABS. 

Where's that treble hook Pic Biz uses.


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

TIFIFY :laughing:


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

Letterrip said:


> I make it a point to meet my inspector on every inspection. We can track our inspectors online. It is VERY common for the inspector to have 15+ stops in a day. Pretty sure they appreciate that purple so that they don't have to get up close to every joint to know what was done. A quick glance tells them that primer was used.


How many stops my inspector has to make isn't my problem. Then they need to hire another one. I pay the several hundred dollar permit fee usually for a job with many joints like a remodel or new house. He needs to have his arse there for as long as I need him there for.


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## LIQUID (Sep 26, 2013)

MTDUNN said:


> I would never use transition glue. That's just me. I use banded transition ferncos or Proflex couplings.
> 
> Also I'm pulling your chain on priming ABS.
> 
> Where's that treble hook Pic Biz uses.


Never say never.. and yeah, I often prefer an mj, though it costs more and often isn't needed. Imo .


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## CaptChipAhoy (Sep 12, 2013)

You know, I hate an ugly glue joint/ purple cleaner mess

I found that right after a push it all together after I have cleaner and glued I take out my lighter and fire it up

Now it has that nice toasty brown look to it, and you know what, no purple shows


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

I feel really bad about my sloppy primer. :no:


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

plbgbiz said:


> I feel really bad about my sloppy primer. :no:


When that's dug up 20 years from now the plumber will look at that saddle in disgust as he/she takes a photo to post onto the Zone exclaiming how sloppy this plumber's work was. And no one will care then either.


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## Gryphon Plumber (Jun 3, 2012)

Look at all this nasty purple primer!!!


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## TXPlumbBob (Dec 13, 2013)

CaptChipAhoy said:


> You know, I hate an ugly glue joint/ purple cleaner mess
> 
> I found that right after a push it all together after I have cleaner and glued I take out my lighter and fire it up
> 
> Now it has that nice toasty brown look to it, and you know what, no purple shows


Around here a nice toasty brown look would make the inspector think you had hot nailed the fitting and would make you take it out and replace it.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

TXPlumbBob said:


> Around here a nice toasty brown look would make the inspector think you had hot nailed the fitting and would make you take it out and replace it.


What is hot nailing a fitting?


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## LIQUID (Sep 26, 2013)

Just a guess here. But I assuming he means those who will light the glue with a torch and then press the pipe into the fitting, it speeds up the cureing time for the glue.... a LOT. And is generally considered bad practice for obvious reasons.


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## Keefer w (Jan 26, 2012)

I've seen a screwdriver heated up with a torch and slid on the edge of the hub to seal a leak. Not the most professional but... We've all been there


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

Keefer w said:


> I've seen a screwdriver heated up with a torch and slid on the edge of the hub to seal a leak. Not the most professional but... We've all been there


Wow, I have never heard of that. Good to know for if I get into a bind.


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

Keefer w said:


> I've seen a screwdriver heated up with a torch and slid on the edge of the hub to seal a leak. Not the most professional but... We've all been there


Better have a plan B


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## LIQUID (Sep 26, 2013)

A ptex candle for repairing a ski or snowboard base will drip a cintrolled seam of plastic that will bond to pvc.. I have never actually done this in a real life situation nor do I reccomend you do it but on a test peice of pipe it held 100 psi after a 1/8th hole was previously drilled into it. . I first heard if this by a buddy who lives on van island, where parts are sometimes scarce and take a while to ship in.


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## James420 (Nov 14, 2012)

Back in the '90s when the company I worked for was re-piping houses, removing Poly B and installing CPVC or copper at the customers request, we had to use purple primer on the CPVC since the one step yellow wasn't approved for some dumb arse reason, we had to use the orange glue which also had a much longer cure time. I spilled a can of purple off a ladder onto a counter top and then on the floor, what a nightmare. I got all the purple out of the floor with clear primer but the counter was ruined. 

A few days later the floor was ruined from using clear to clean up the floor. My old boss was not a happy dude.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

LIQUID said:


> A ptex candle for repairing a ski or snowboard base will drip a cintrolled seam of plastic that will bond to pvc.. I have never actually done this in a real life situation nor do I reccomend you do it but on a test peice of pipe it held 100 psi after a 1/8th hole was previously drilled into it. . I first heard if this by a buddy who lives on van island, where parts are sometimes scarce and take a while to ship in.


Interesting that hot polyethylene (P-Tex) will bond to PVC...
Good to know there is a temporary repair solution that will work on PVC...:thumbup:

I've got a couple of Island Customers out in Long Island Sound where having to go back to the mainland on the ferry for a part, means we'll see you tomorrow if we can get a ferry reservation... :whistling2:


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

James420 said:


> Back in the '90s when the company I worked for was re-piping houses, removing Poly B and installing CPVC or copper at the customers request, we had to use purple primer on the CPVC since the one step yellow wasn't approved for some dumb arse reason, we had to use the orange glue which also had a much longer cure time. I spilled a can of purple off a ladder onto a counter top and then on the floor, what a nightmare. I got all the purple out of the floor with clear primer but the counter was ruined.
> 
> A few days later the floor was ruined from using clear to clean up the floor. My old boss was not a happy dude.


Damn. That sucks. I can only imagine your face when that can was in mid air falling to the counter.


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## James420 (Nov 14, 2012)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> Damn. That sucks. I can only imagine your face when that can was in mid air falling to the counter.


It was a disaster, I felt horrible. I still believe to this day that the yellow glue should have been approved right away. Of course I can say that since I spilled the Purple primer. :thumbup:


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

I read about another plumbing job disaster caused by radio on jobsite.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

You have no one to blame but yourself if you don't use one of these. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11512946 Werner has a nice system, too. http://us.wernerco.com/products/featured-products


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

422 plumber said:


> You have no one to blame but yourself if you don't use one of these. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11512946 Werner has a nice system, too. http://us.wernerco.com/products/featured-products


I have that ladder tray.. designed for painter..made some change... now worth it.. fill the inside pocket with a sheet of plastic to keep the cans from tipping..


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## MTDUNN (Oct 9, 2011)

No one ever bolted toilet flanges upside down on a ladder?


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## LIQUID (Sep 26, 2013)

I wear a work belt for ladder top work. Wc flanges sounds a good idea, I have done this with screws and 3" caps.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

MTDUNN said:


> No one ever bolted toilet flanges upside down on a ladder?


Too hard to comphrened when saying upsidedown


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## PeckPlumbing (Mar 19, 2011)

Oh the purple stuff... We don't use much here, mostly ABS. When doing sprinkler stuff in ground or in zone boxes I stopped caring. Just bury it. :-O


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

nauman ahmad said:


> Little knowledge is a curse in itself. Must have known how to make things work.


Do you even know what purple primer is?

Are you a plumbing professional?

*Why don't you post an introduction?*


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

nauman ahmad said:


> Little knowledge is a curse in itself. Must have known how to make things work.


Hey dude. ^&%#. !!!


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## newyorkcity (Nov 25, 2010)

nauman ahmad said:


> Little knowledge is a curse in itself. Must have known how to make things work.


You don't have to be Greek to recognize this person as a malaka...:laughing:


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## red_devil (Mar 23, 2011)

I know for residential this is probably over kill. But, when I'm doing sch 80 pvc on commercial/industrial jobs we always use painter tape around the pipe. Measure out, apply the tape an 1/8 th inch back or so. Prime, glue. Insert than remove. Perfect joint everytime. That being said, its much larger pipe than in a house and normally not on a big time crunch like housing is.


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

red_devil said:


> I know for residential this is probably over kill. But, when I'm doing sch 80 pvc on commercial/industrial jobs we always use painter tape around the pipe. Measure out, apply the tape an 1/8 th inch back or so. Prime, glue. Insert than remove. Perfect joint everytime. That being said, its much larger pipe than in a house and normally not on a big time crunch like housing is.


That is a good method. If I were doing some 2" or 4" PVC work I could see using that method if any of the pipe will be exposed.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

There's an art to primer. Factory looking weld everytime comes with experience I guess. I can say when that first became a requirement, my hands stayed purple.


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## love2surf927 (Dec 22, 2011)

red_devil said:


> I know for residential this is probably over kill. But, when I'm doing sch 80 pvc on commercial/industrial jobs we always use painter tape around the pipe. Measure out, apply the tape an 1/8 th inch back or so. Prime, glue. Insert than remove. Perfect joint everytime. That being said, its much larger pipe than in a house and normally not on a big time crunch like housing is.


This is what I do too but only if it's exposed otherwise I try my best to make it look nice.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

red_devil said:


> I know for residential this is probably over kill. But, when I'm doing sch 80 pvc on commercial/industrial jobs we always use painter tape around the pipe. Measure out, apply the tape an 1/8 th inch back or so. Prime, glue. Insert than remove. Perfect joint everytime. That being said, its much larger pipe than in a house and normally not on a big time crunch like housing is.


How about this? Instead of taping every joint, how about either a SV gasket or a Fernco? Make a slice in them, then have a piece of all thread or a piece wood, anything will do, cut to the depth of the socket, plus an 1/8"? Now there is no need to measure and mark.

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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

red_devil said:


> I know for residential this is probably over kill. But, when I'm doing sch 80 pvc on commercial/industrial jobs we always use painter tape around the pipe. Measure out, apply the tape an 1/8 th inch back or so. Prime, glue. Insert than remove. Perfect joint everytime. That being said, its much larger pipe than in a house and normally not on a big time crunch like housing is.


Wow! 

Sounds like a lot of work...
Why not just don't be sloppy...


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

What I'm working on at the moment. And while in thinking about it, I don't recall the last time I needed a 10ft ladder on a residential structure. Monster house I guess.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

I almost have this set or cans broken in. Waste not want not.


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## red_devil (Mar 23, 2011)

I can promise you im not sloppy. Im talking sewage treatment plants generally but also other applications were my pipe sizes are normally over 4" generally to as much as 16". They demand perfection and the extra bit of time it takes I am more than happy to deliver. Clean work means repeat work. And now we have 3 plants with a full time millright and apprentice working 5 days 40 a week just from quality of work. 

I have been installing bfp from 2 inch to 10 inch in a local university/ hospital for over 8 months now and keep picking up more jobs. They like quality, effeciency and cleanliness. Something as little as sweeping makes the world of difference. And they pay big bucks per install so its not the pricing that keeps the jobs coming in. 

Sloppy work in the long run only means more work for the good plumbers to come in and fix. 

As for the fernco and wood, we are always making jigs and ways of improving the process. To be honest, I trust my tape measure and generally Im working with several different pipe sizes so its just easier. But if its long runs or consistent pipe size than we generally make a jig of sorts. 

Sorry for hijacking a thread in residential when this is all commercial applications but I saw the relation


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## LIQUID (Sep 26, 2013)

I'm with the red devil.. always take the extra time to do nice work, and always clean up. There are piles of poorly plumbed buildings around here and this keeps is buisy for the same reasons as devil mentioned


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## TXPlumbBob (Dec 13, 2013)

Best Darn Sewer said:


> What is hot nailing a fitting?


I am sorry I guess I abandoned this thread.

Hot nailing is just what it sounds like and just what I have heard it referred to . Take a nail get it hot and melt the plastic of the pipe and fitting together to seal a leak. 

I watch a guy try it once and it did not work and have heard about it a lot but have never tried it myself.


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

White spray paint. I keep a tool tote with a strap around the ladder sitting on the paint pail thing for ceiling work. My new guys cut couplings slide them on the pipe and sharpie it. There will be no question if it's in all the way. And leak b gone rings work great for stack test repairs. +1 on primering swab up I also glue while the primer is still wet.


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## Prof.plumb (Apr 5, 2012)

I just prime the pipe and not the fitting. Of course I glue both. A helluvalot neater and never had a leak.


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

Prof.plumb said:


> I just prime the pipe and not the fitting. Of course I glue both. A helluvalot neater and never had a leak.


Why would you willfully misuse a product?

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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

I'm going to stop using cutting oil and pipe dope. They're just too messy. I prefer clean looking installs.


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## Will (Jun 6, 2010)

I prime it up. I care more for the quality of the joint than how it looks.


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## dclarke (Dec 22, 2012)

I always prime the fitting and the pipe. I even use purple on finish. Be careful and its not an issue. I deburr the pipe on finish so it doesn't catch and send spatter. I don't typically ream or deburr like your supposed to any other time though.


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## Prof.plumb (Apr 5, 2012)

Ya, ok guys. And everybody sands the outside of 636 after using a cutting wheel on it.


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## Prof.plumb (Apr 5, 2012)

Mind you, I've only ran PVC for venting and condensate lines. You guys really think it's that big a deal to prime both?


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## dclarke (Dec 22, 2012)

Prof.plumb said:


> Mind you, I've only ran PVC for venting and condensate lines. You guys really think it's that big a deal to prime both?


its a solvent weld. Without priming both it doesn't weld properly and is a weak joint. Have you ever seen a glue joint come apart ? Its because it wasn't done properly.


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## 15807brett (Jun 21, 2013)

Like dcclarke said did you ever see a pipe come out of a fitting, that's not done right. The primer when applied softens the pipe so the glue can adhere to the plastic while it's soft to make a good bond.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Prof.plumb said:


> Mind you, I've only ran PVC for venting and condensate lines. *You guys really think it's that big a deal to prime both?*











Anytime someone deliberately and willfuly circumvents a manufacturer's specifications, that one is opening themself up to all kinds of grief if ever there is some problem down the road.

Lawyers love that stuff. 

I used to work for a company that would not install a new W/H with 3500 watt heating elements if they didn't come from the factory that way.

I'll explain; I was scheduled to replace an electric W/H that had 3500 watt elements. Breaker was probably 20 amps {I don't remember for sure the breaker's amps}. But I do know that the existing W'/H had 3500W elements. The supply house only had the W/H in stock with 4500W elements. I told my manager "No prob, I'll just replace the elements when I install the new W/H." He says *no way Jose*...:no: His reason. We are guilty of altering that product. If any fire or mishap were ever to happen and the investigators examing the W/H and see that the installing plumbing contractor altered it, then that plumbing contractor is dragged into the lawsuit. CYA {cover your anatomy}


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## Prof.plumb (Apr 5, 2012)

Ok point taken.


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

Just had a can of purple primer tip over on the shelf in my van. Melted the power pack to the shelf. Now I got to try and break it loose and get the plastic off


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## 422 plumber (Jul 31, 2008)

Bill said:


> Just had a can of purple primer tip over on the shelf in my van. Melted the power pack to the shelf. Now I got to try and break it loose and get the plastic off


I feel your pain, I had some guys bring fittings back to the shop in tote. They threw the chemicals in on top and of course the primer leaked and ruined about 40 2" fittings.

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## Spridle (Oct 30, 2012)

How I learned to make clean primer joints. 
Only use 1/2 can of primer. 
I had to cut my dauber in 1/2. 
I was taught to shake the dauber in the can, hitting the sides of the neck. If it doesn't sound like Scooby Doo running away, you aren't doing it right. 
Prime the fitting socket. 
If its still runny, possibly a pass on the inside of the pipe before the outside. Runny primer was always a pet peeve of the guys that taught me. 
Glue it up, stick it together. 
Letter it up
Finger swipe the excess glue. 
Clean joints, or beaten apprentice. 
That was a long time ago. 
Still show people the same things I was shown. 
And expect the same that I expect from myself.


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