# What is your best homemade tool?



## DesertOkie

This one has saved me lots of time when running urinal drains. I pop it in the sloan stop with a ten foot hose and make sure the line is open before rehanging the urinal. I usually let the hose go while I clean out the P-Trap of the urinal.


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## plbgbiz

Mr. Bill should be along soon with some nifty inventions.


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## Plumberman

Gear Junkie had a good one a few years back for when unstopping kitchen sinks.

I built one too and used it on several occasions when I was doing a lot of res service...

There is a thread somewhere with it posted, maybe he will come a long later and show us.


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## rocksteady

That's pretty cool but you should probably throw a vacuum breaker on the hose bib.








Paul


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## DesertOkie

Sh*t I never thought about that, good call.


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## gear junkie

The first pic is an air tank I got from a free broken air compressor. I use it it blow out my jetter lines, condensate drain, etc. Maybe cost 10$ in parts. I use my big air compressor at the house to fill it up. It comes off the wall and is aluminum and very light.

The other pic is a paper towel holder. Don't know why but that stupid roll of paper towels was always in the way and getting on my nerves. The holder is nothing special but it works great.


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## Plumberman

gear junkie said:


> The first pic is an air tank I got from a free broken air compressor. I use it it blow out my jetter lines, condensate drain, etc. Maybe cost 10$ in parts. I use my big air compressor at the house to fill it up. It comes off the wall and is aluminum and very light.
> 
> The other pic is a paper towel holder. Don't know why but that stupid roll of paper towels was always in the way and getting on my nerves. The holder is nothing special but it works great.


Didn't you devise that drain cleaning tool built out of PVC a couple of years back or was that someone else?


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## hroark2112

I needed a drying rack for my goalie gear, so some 2" PVC and 1/2 hour of my time and voila!


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## Redwood

Plumberman said:


> Didn't you devise that drain cleaning tool built out of PVC a couple of years back or was that someone else?


I'm not sure who it was that made that tool initially or where I saw it...
I'm pretty sure I saw the same one you are talking about and I made a similar tool for use while snaking sink lines...

Here is a pic of what I built based on that tool...


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## DesertOkie

Nice it sure helps having water behind your cable. They make a little hose to aerator thread that I use with my hose flush bag setup. I'll try to get a pic up.


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## LEAD INGOT

:whistling2::whistling2::whistling2:


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## Will

My custom tub wrench


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## marc76075

I'm guessing that smart water bottle helps.....


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## DesertOkie

You must be producing these commercially all the section 8 housing comes with one or two, and a free flat screen TV



LEAD INGOT said:


> :whistling2::whistling2::whistling2:


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## gear junkie

Plumberman said:


> Didn't you devise that drain cleaning tool built out of PVC a couple of years back or was that someone else?


http://www.plumbingzone.com/f23/undersink-drain-contraption-728/

That was me.


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## DesertOkie

It's funny how often when a plumber makes something it's from PVC or Gal pipe. I made up a tool for my wife's research when she was working on her Phd. It measures the intake and evaporation of water in trees so of coarse its housed in PVC and looks like a pipe bomb.


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## Will

gear junkie said:


> http://www.plumbingzone.com/f23/undersink-drain-contraption-728/
> 
> That was me.


I use something similar


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## Airgap

LEAD INGOT said:


> :whistling2::whistling2::whistling2:


Wow, that water sure is clean....


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## rocksteady

Airgap said:


> Wow, that water sure is clean....


If it's not dirty, it's not illegal. That there is for flavored tobacco or incense. :whistling2:







Paul


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## LEAD INGOT

Airgap said:


> Wow, that water sure is clean....


 Sorry for partially derailling this thread. I see these all the time on apartment maintenance. The thing that amazes me is, the people with the homemade bongs, are never home. I would have lost a lot of money on that bet.


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## plbgbiz

These are probably the most important homemade tools at our shop....:gun_bandana:


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## DesertOkie

anyone make a potato gun? It seems that every shop I've been at has tried with fair success to make one.


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## Epox

I make and use this tool to dig around 8" sewer mains so I can fish saddle tap straps around the main without having to dig with a shovel the full circumference. We uncover main on top and down one side because typically there's a utility crowding one side vertical to the main. I hold on to it and with a hammer drive it around the main. Will not puncture, just skin the surface and watch it pop out on the bottom side of main. Pull it out and fish straps in following path the tool created, repeat for other strap. Used this for years, I've made them from 1/2" rebar, this one is 1/2" allthread. More hand friendly material would be easy enough I just never have it on hand when I need one. I can get around a main and done before a shovel would be getting started.


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## DesertOkie

That's a great tool! Could have used it back in may needed just a little more dirt out backhoe hit the tap from across the street. The were both clay hubs with orangeburg stuck into them(welcome to Oklahoma) They were so close we used two saddles but only three clamps. Thankfully the inspector let us do it.


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## Epox

You'll love it if you do many sewer line replacements. My backhoe operator ( I use him when I have a deep main) gets a kick out of it everytime I use it. Tells other plumbers about it, some do it , others don't.


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## Redwood

gear junkie said:


> http://www.plumbingzone.com/f23/undersink-drain-contraption-728/
> 
> That was me.


Oh Yea! :thumbup:

That is where that came from!
Thanks for putting that up! :yes:

Best damn Drain Cleaning Tool Ever!


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## Qball415

Tub wrench for the shoe. I use a 1" F.I.P. a bull head tee and couple of caps on the ends. Notch the F.I.P. to 4 slots and wala you have a meter and tub wrench.


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## pauliplumber

Cut the handles in half on your channel locks.

You now have stubby channel locks.


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## U666A

pauliplumber said:


> Cut the handles in half on your channel locks.
> 
> You now have stubby channel locks.


I don't get it...

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:


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## RW Plumbing

pauliplumber said:


> Cut the handles in half on your channel locks.
> 
> You now have stubby channel locks.


You know they make different sizes of those right???


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## rocksteady

U666A said:


> I don't get it...
> 
> :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:


Then you get useless channel locks and 2 little pieces of metal you can stab in each one of your eyes.




Paul


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## pauliplumber

Ever want to use a good size pair of channel locks in a tight spot? One day I did and said f it, and cut a few inches of the handles off an old pair. I still use them on pedistal traps , the top nut on some toilet supplies, or some tub wastes with narrow access.


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## retired rooter

Redwood said:


> I'm not sure who it was that made that tool initially or where I saw it...
> I'm pretty sure I saw the same one you are talking about and I made a similar tool for use while snaking sink lines...
> 
> Here is a pic of what I built based on that tool...


 I used to use a long supply line for old 2 handle sink faucets,after running cable thru line after pulling trap,I would stick supply line in pipe (holding water with a washrag) and run water to flush out line and wash off cable,Now days I just go thru strainer and trap with 1/4 x50 on little gorlitz and run all the water I want .If 50 isnt long enough I get out my old my-tana with 100 ft and go back to the old way.Or to roof if roof is not steep and not too high(and it not raining)


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## Tommy plumber

A homemade glue pot holder. The cans don't tip over with the holder...


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## Richard Hilliard

We frequently run into tub drain problems where the stopper is frozen in place in the brass waste and overflow. I took a machine threaded j-hook, added flat washers, and nut. I slide the hook onto the stopper and tighten the nut that pulls the stopper out of the brass tee.

I need to learn how to take pictures and post them. Where are my kids when I need them?


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## nhmaster3015

About 10 dollars in copper and fittings there :laughing: cheaper to take a couple wraps of duct tape around both cans. 

I dont have pictures of it but I have a 5' step ladder that I mounted casters on along with a middle shelf and holders for the torch and a basket for fittings and tools. Perfect for basement rough in's when the floor is poured.


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## Tommy plumber

nhmaster3015 said:


> About 10 dollars in copper and fittings there :laughing: cheaper to take a couple wraps of duct tape around both cans.
> 
> I dont have pictures of it but I have a 5' step ladder that I mounted casters on along with a middle shelf and holders for the torch and a basket for fittings and tools. Perfect for basement rough in's when the floor is poured.


 




I think it was more than $10.00 in copper...:laughing: 

But with duct tape, you get the glue and purple primer on your fingers when you pick up the glue pots. With the copper holder, my hands don't get the pvc cement on them...:thumbsup: Plus, with duct tape, there were times when I'd accidentally knock over the glue pots.


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## Widdershins

Tommy plumber said:


> I think it was more than $10.00 in copper...:laughing:
> 
> But with duct tape, you get the glue and purple primer on your fingers when you pick up the glue pots. With the copper holder, my hands don't get the pvc cement on them...:thumbsup: Plus, with duct tape, there were times when I'd accidentally knock over the glue pots.



http://www.shubee.com/media/catalog...f020e43594a9c230972d/G/l/GlueCaddyPrime_1.jpg


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## gear junkie

Most of the tools we're showing off are available commercially but there's something satisfying about using a tool that you made.


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## DesertOkie

mpsllc said:


> I make and use this tool to dig around 8" sewer mains so I can fish saddle tap straps around the main without having to dig with a shovel the full circumference. We uncover main on top and down one side because typically there's a utility crowding one side vertical to the main. I hold on to it and with a hammer drive it around the main. Will not puncture, just skin the surface and watch it pop out on the bottom side of main. Pull it out and fish straps in following path the tool created, repeat for other strap. Used this for years, I've made them from 1/2" rebar, this one is 1/2" allthread. More hand friendly material would be easy enough I just never have it on hand when I need one. I can get around a main and done before a shovel would be getting started.


 You can't get this one in the store. :thumbup:
Hell sometimes I have the store bought one on the truck and just cant find it. People are less likely to steal homemade stuff.


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## Widdershins

I took a hole saw arbor and ground it down on a bench grinder so I could drill 1-3/8" holes through dimensional lumber. I've had that sucker since '99.

1-3/8" holes being an industry standard, you'd think the manufacturers would make their arbors a little shy of 1-3/8" instead of 1-1/2".


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## nhmaster3015

If you're not getting primer and glue on your hands, what's the point of being a plumber :laughing:


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## TX MECH PLUMBER

nhmaster3015 said:


> If you're not getting primer and glue on your hands, what's the point of being a plumber :laughing:


If I didnt have primer or glue on my hands I'd get fired for not workin ...... Laughing


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## gear junkie

Not sure what the pics will come out so in the order I think it'll come out:

1. This is what I use to dig around pipe instead of a bent piece of rebar.
2. Longer handle for my wrench. Hammer is to show scale.
3. Custom K39 Storage unit.
4. Pex handles for the sectional cages. Makes handling them much easier on the hands.
5. Blades holders. The shape allows it be drooped on the K60 leg when carrying it in a vertical position.


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## gear junkie

The pipe helps the gloves dry out and not smell so bad.


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## Mega Smash

I don't have a picture of it, but I'm sure you get the idea.

It's a piece of 3/4" copper (about 5-6" long) with a slide-through coupling soldered to one end. Four notches are cut into it at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions.

Makes tightening/loosening those damn plastic nuts on Bemis seats SOOOOO much easier.

I also have similar (in principle) tools for holding urinal and toilet spuds while tightening.

Every time I had to undo/tighten a union trap or PO nut (in ABS) I found myself cursing. If I couldn't do it with my hands, I was forced to use my pliers at their max setting. Which would wind up chewing up the nut, if the HO hadn't done so already.

Then I found these in my automotive toolbox - they grip better than a set of slip joint pliers, and they're smaller in length. I think this picture is actually to scale too.


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## cityplumbing

Great tool, I have owned mine for years and use it for trap unions, duo strainer nuts and water filters..:thumbup:


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## RealLivePlumber

Still hot from the tig. 

To tighten those freakin big azz mounting nuts on a Kolher widespread lav. 

You know the one. A basin wrench will not fit around the nuts without binding on the sink, especially a pedestal.

It is an 1 7/16" 12 point socket, 3/4" drive, with the bottom cut off, with a modified crows foot wrench welded to it. It will slip over the bibb with the hose installed into it.


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## PLUMBER_BILL

RealLivePlumber said:


> Still hot from the tig.
> 
> To tighten those freakin big azz mounting nuts on a Kolher widespread lav.
> 
> You know the one. A basin wrench will not fit around the nuts without binding on the sink, especially a pedestal.
> 
> It is an 1 7/16" 12 point socket, 3/4" drive, with the bottom cut off, with a modified crows foot wrench welded to it. It will slip over the bibb with the hose installed into it.


*Crows foot box is better. Open jaws allows you to get on to hold back for repair of wide spread or Valvet or new cartridge types, when supply is connected. *


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## RealLivePlumber

I guess you are talking about a "line wrench" style crows foot. Problem is, they do not make one in 1 7/16". I checked with Napa, and Snap On. 

I made that one for new installs. I could cut a slot out of it, to allow it to slip over the supply while connected, if I need to.


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## SlickRick

What did I make this for?



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## Tommy plumber

For taste and odor water filter cartridges under sinks?


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## SlickRick

Tommy plumber said:


> For taste and odor water filter cartridges under sinks?


Think of the worst fixture part ,that you should never want to change out from the underside.


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## Tommy plumber

SlickRick said:


> Think of the worst fixture part ,that you should never want to change out from the underside.


 




3 1/2" basket strainer?


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## SlickRick

How about a shower drain that I had 18" crawl space, 6" of foam insulation and the sub floor that was 2x6 pressure treated lumber. ( not just the joist, the decking was 2x6).

I was able to angle my saw through the drain opening on the shower and open the hole through the sub floor, dremmel out the HO installed PVC shower drain and use the toolinator to tighten the new brass drain nut.


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## Widdershins

SlickRick said:


> How about a shower drain that I had 18" crawl space, 6" of foam insulation and the sub floor that was 2x6 pressure treated lumber. ( not just the joist, the decking was 2x6).
> 
> I was able to angle my saw through the drain opening on the shower and open the hole through the sub floor, dremmel out the HO installed PVC shower drain and use the toolinator to tighten the new brass drain nut.


 I have a tool exactly like that for removing the tops of Canplas backwater valves.


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## pauliplumber

Nice! If I order one in the next 10 min, will you double my order?


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## SlickRick

pauliplumber said:


> Nice! If I order one in the next 10 min, will you double my order?


Gladly! The price is $250.00. It took me an hour to make it. :laughing:


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## Widdershins

You just can't beat a Dremel tool for making 'Need It Right Now' tools out in the field.


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## Redwood

I used to hate doing shower drain replacements... 

Until I started using Davke Replacement Drains and the Sioux Chief Jackrabbit...

If the shower wasn't bed properly and the floor has movement I'll use the Davke No Hub to add a little flex so the repair lasts...


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## SlickRick

Redwood said:


> I used to hate doing shower drain replacements...
> 
> Until I started using Davke Replacement Drains and the Sioux Chief Jackrabbit...
> 
> If the shower wasn't bed properly and the floor has movement I'll use the Davke No Hub to add a little flex so the repair lasts...


Looks good, can they be installed with one hand?


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## Redwood

SlickRick said:


> Looks good, can they be installed with one hand?


Probably could....


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## Widdershins

Redwood said:


> I used to hate doing shower drain replacements...
> 
> Until I started using Davke Replacement Drains and the Sioux Chief Jackrabbit...j
> 
> If the shower wasn't bed properly and the floor has movement I'll use the Davke No Hub to add a little flex so the repair lasts...



The Davke's are great -- I know the Plumber who developed and patented them.

He retired on the residuals from that invention a good 12 or 13 years ago.


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## Epox

DesertOkie said:


> This one has saved me lots of time when running urinal drains. I pop it in the sloan stop with a ten foot hose and make sure the line is open before rehanging the urinal. I usually let the hose go while I clean out the P-Trap of the urinal.
> View attachment 10805


I like that.:yes:


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## damnplumber

*All my kids have one!*



plbgbiz said:


> These are probably the most important homemade tools at our shop....:gun_bandana:


But my rambuctions wife uses hers most!


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## damnplumber

*use nitrile gloves*



Tommy plumber said:


> I think it was more than $10.00 in copper...:laughing:
> 
> But with duct tape, you get the glue and purple primer on your fingers when you pick up the glue pots. With the copper holder, my hands don't get the pvc cement on them...:thumbsup: Plus, with duct tape, there were times when I'd accidentally knock over the glue pots.


I hate it when purple primer stains my hands!


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## Tommy plumber

damnplumber said:


> I hate it when purple primer stains my hands!


 






You don't want to get it in your eye. I did once, and it stung.


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## JWBII

My understanding is that using tape around glue cans is against OSHA and they will fine you if they see it. Something about it covering the warning label and all.

I guess there's no way the glue or primer won't end up covering it all up anyway lol.


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## 504Plumber

Tommy plumber said:


> You don't want to get it in your eye. I did once, and it stung.


Or cuts, that stuff burns like fire!


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## liquidplumber

*My pex shutoff tool*

One inch pipe half inch rod


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## Qball415

liquidplumber said:


> One inch pipe half inch rod


Fill me in on what you mean by a shut off tool.


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## Tommy plumber

Qball415 said:


> Fill me in on what you mean by a shut off tool.


 








I think he means he uses the vice-like tool to pinch closed a Pex line to shut off the water supply. But my question is: doesn't that crush the Pex and prevent you from then properly inserting a new fitting onto that section of pipe?


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## U666A

Tommy plumber said:


> I think he means he uses the vice-like tool to pinch closed a Pex line to shut off the water supply. But my question is: doesn't that crush the Pex and prevent you from then properly inserting a new fitting onto that section of pipe?


Not if uponor, take a heat gun to it and presto! :thumbup:


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## Gettinit

Tommy plumber said:


> I think he means he uses the vice-like tool to pinch closed a Pex line to shut off the water supply. But my question is: doesn't that crush the Pex and prevent you from then properly inserting a new fitting onto that section of pipe?


Not if you give yourself some room. Problem I see with pex is it gets brittle. It would be great for black roll pipe or blue Max.


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## futz

*Shower Arm Tool*

Very simple. It's a 1/2" x 4" galv nipple with coup & cap. I've carried this tool in my finish box since I was a newb. Makes installing shower arms and drop ells effortless and quick. No need to scratch the arm up with a pliers. 

With drop ells that are too close to the wall I have to use a Delta tool for the wall part of the arc, but I usually switch back to this for the longer arc if I'm needing to go tight.


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## deerslayer

futz said:


> Very simple. It's a 1/2" x 4" galv nipple with coup & cap. I've carried this tool in my finish box since I was a newb. Makes installing shower arms and drop ells effortless and quick. No need to scratch the arm up with a pliers.
> 
> With drop ells that are too close to the wall I have to use a Delta tool for the wall part of the arc, but I usually switch back to this for the longer arc if I'm needing to go tight.
> 
> View attachment 22738


I always make one and use it when I am putting in a shower arm.I never thought about it as a tool but I guess it is.


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## U666A

deerslayer said:


> I always make one and use it when I am putting in a shower arm.I never thought about it as a tool but I guess it is.


Cut a running thread on that nipple as if you were making a homemade nipple chuck and you wouldn't even need a tool at all other than that.
:thumbup:


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## futz

U666A said:


> Cut a running thread on that nipple as if you were making a homemade nipple chuck and you wouldn't even need a tool at all other than that.
> :thumbup:


I don't understand...


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## plbgbiz

Longer threads on the black nipple lets it bottom out and lock against the shower arm, thus removing the need to tighten the coupling with a wrench.


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## Gettinit

futz said:


> Very simple. It's a 1/2" x 4" galv nipple with coup & cap. I've carried this tool in my finish box since I was a newb. Makes installing shower arms and drop ells effortless and quick. No need to scratch the arm up with a pliers.
> 
> With drop ells that are too close to the wall I have to use a Delta tool for the wall part of the arc, but I usually switch back to this for the longer arc if I'm needing to go tight.
> 
> View attachment 22738


I put a channelock handle inside to get that last little bit. No marring..


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## OldSchool

Gettinit said:


> I put a channelock handle inside to get that last little bit. No marring..


I do the same thing ....


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## plbgbiz

Gettinit said:


> I put a channelock handle inside to get that last little bit. No marring..


Me 3.


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## futz

plbgbiz said:


> Longer threads on the black nipple lets it bottom out and lock against the shower arm, thus removing the need to tighten the coupling with a wrench.


I never tighten the coupling with a wrench. Hand tight is fine.

And I never use anything but the tool for tightening shower arms. No need to use plier handles or any additional leverage at all, ever. With the tool and my hands alone I could tighten the arm until I bottom the thread and split the wingback. 

Maybe I'm just strong? NOT!


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## plbgbiz

futz said:


> I never tighten the coupling with a wrench. Hand tight is fine.


Well you know how those Organized fellas are. Always overkill. :laughing::jester:


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## U666A

futz said:


> I never tighten the coupling with a wrench. Hand tight is fine.
> 
> Never use anything but the tool for tightening shower arms. No need to use plier handles. With the tool I could tighten the arm until I bottom the thread and split the wingback.
> 
> Maybe I'm just strong? NOT!


I understand, but you likely have to use a pipe wrench with a back wrench on the surface you didn't want to mar in the first place to remove the tool right?

With a thread protector and a running thread set to the correct depth, you could take the tool off of the shower arm by hand...

Maybe it doesn't get tight on the threads at all though, never tried it. Just a thought...


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## rjbphd

Not a tool, nipple air scoop, can't show it as its inside the boiler and doing the job.


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## futz

U666A said:


> I understand, but you likely have to use a pipe wrench with a back wrench on the surface you didn't want to mar in the first place to remove the tool right?
> 
> With a thread protector and a running thread set to the correct depth, you could take the tool off of the shower arm by hand...
> 
> Maybe it doesn't get tight on the threads at all though, never tried it. Just a thought...


Nope. No wrenches involved at all. Just spin it on by hand, tighten the arm, then spin it off by hand (fingers, actually). It doesn't need to be tightened super tight on the arm threads. Just hand tight.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER

I use a 24" steel pipe wrench to tighten mine !!!


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## DesertOkie

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> I use a 24" steel pipe wrench to tighten mine !!!



I wondered who that was, please try to stay out of OK from now on.:laughing:


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## solder bandit

Stainless steel barrel wrench for carriers .,..


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## rjbphd

solder bandit said:


> Stainless steel barrel wrench for carriers .,..


 Who are you to post on here without a proper intro?? Been stealing our solder for sharkbite fittings??


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## Tommy plumber

futz said:


> Nope. No wrenches involved at all. Just spin it on by hand, tighten the arm, then spin it off by hand (fingers, actually). It doesn't need to be tightened super tight on the arm threads. Just hand tight.


 






I see how your tool would work fine; you get great leverage. But sometimes the ceiling is low above the shower arm, and even the channel-lock handle hits the ceiling.


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## futz

Tommy plumber said:


> I see how your tool would work fine; you get great leverage. But sometimes the ceiling is low above the shower arm, and even the channel-lock handle hits the ceiling.


Yup, there are some rare cases where it just won't work. But for 99.9% of arms it's good.


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## redbeardplumber

I just stick a 1/2 piece of copper inside shower arm and tighten. No it doesn't oval pipe. 2 secs done. Always in my bucket buddy.


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