# Valve Stop failure



## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

Had a small job yesterday replacing a fill valve on the stop for a toilet. Customer tells me that they had to call out the big 24/7 company for a repair on a water line Sunday Evening. The tech changed some of the piping in the closet where the main service comes in and feeds the house. 

The weird thing is, after the guy made the repair the fill valve and stop both started malfunctioning. I get the fill valve was old and probably had debris in it from the water being shut off, but the stop was leaking where it threaded on the 3/8 chrome nipple. Granted it was a cheap Keeney from the hardware, but the hairline crack had me perplexed. 

What is even more weird is that the customer just called and said the other toilet stop is now leaking in a very similar manner. I don't recall ever having a valve stop develop a hairline crack by shutting water on and off.


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## johntheplumber (Feb 11, 2013)

It's possible that when they were originally installed they were put in too tight. It's possible that the calcium build up sealed any leaks. When the water was shut off and turned back on its possible that the plumber turned the water on too fast an the rushing water hit against the stops disturbing the crack.


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## Relic (Sep 30, 2012)

Ben and Rooters likes to loosen stops and such to upsell work on unsuspecting HO's. Many of these Ben Franklin types are straight up scam artists.


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## UN1TED-WE-PLUMB (Oct 3, 2012)

^^

What Jon said. I'm sure the crack was already there.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

I have seen a 3/8" brass nipple stub-out for a toilet leak right after I replaced the 3/8" FIP angle stop. I was there on this particular call to replace tank parts. I also replaced the angle stop. After I turned the water back on, I had a small drip where the brass nipple is threaded into the stop. So I turn the water back off, remove new stop, re-tape with teflon tape, add more pipe dope, and replace stop. Turn on water. Still a small leak. Turned off water, and had to replace the brass 3/8" nipple. Nipple had a small hairline crack. It only leaked after I touched it when I installed a new stop. My guess would be de-zincification had left the brass compromised.


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

What John and Tommy said...if they are cracks then it's probably water hammer related from pushing air through the fill valves after turning the water back on after the repair.

Having said that I can verify what Relic says about BF and RR up-sell techniques...I've listened to scumbags from those outfits brag about using those tricks to sell valve and supply replacements. Usually they do it after the customer declines to have them preemptively replaced while replacing the fill valve and flapper.


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

johnlewismcleod said:


> What John and Tommy said...if they are cracks then it's probably water hammer related from pushing air through the fill valves after turning the water back on after the repair.
> 
> Having said that I can verify what Relic says about BF and RR up-sell techniques...I've listened to scumbags from those outfits brag about using those tricks to sell valve and supply replacements. Usually they do it after the customer declines to have them preemptively replaced while replacing the fill valve and flapper.


That seems so unimaginable to do. How do you explain a new leak like that forming?


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

Indie said:


> That seems so unimaginable to do. How do you explain a new leak like that forming?


I've been told they tell the customer that the stop and supply line look old and should be replaced, then if the customer declines they write on their invoice that the customer declined to have them replace them and have the customer sign it...all the while warning about the possibilities of flood damage and when it might occur.

They then replace the fill valve and flapper, and while doing this loosen the packing nut on the angle stop.

When the customer sees it leaking they have already primed them for the replacement.


You're right, it is amazing and despicable. I was speechless the first time I had an RR tech brag about it to me 

You hardly know what to say...it's like they are from a different planet.


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## UN1TED-WE-PLUMB (Oct 3, 2012)

johnlewismcleod said:


> I've been told they tell the customer that the stop and supply line look old and should be replaced, then if the customer declines they write on their invoice that the customer declined to have them replace them and have the customer sign it...all the while warning about the possibilities of flood damage and when it might occur.
> 
> They then replace the fill valve and flapper, and while doing this loosen the packing nut on the angle stop.
> 
> ...


That's just terrible..

I know for myself I never reuse supply lines for liability reasons... But to intentionally loosen a packing nut to scam money out of a customer is just plain wrong.


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

Had to return to that job today because the valve was leaking profusely. Turns out it was not a new valve at all, but most likely original to the house when it was built late 70's or early 80's. 

Valve was leaking from the packing, and was fairly quick and easy to replace. 

Now that I know it was a different valve and had not been touched I'm still a bit bewildered that both of the valves failed as a result of the water service being turned on and off. Maybe I am not taking water hammer serious enough. 

In this part of Ind. there are no regulations or codes for water hammer. What could be done to help with this, and how do I convince a customer they should buy something that their house never had before now?


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Indie said:


> Had to return to that job today because the valve was leaking profusely. Turns out it was not a new valve at all, but most likely original to the house when it was built late 70's or early 80's.
> 
> Valve was leaking from the packing, and was fairly quick and easy to replace.
> 
> ...


 Which explains another stupid code that doesn't work, a dead end of 12" piece of pipe used for air chamber becomes useless after 3 weeks in service. Unless you recharge them every 3 weeks, precharge air chamber are the way to go.


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## johntheplumber (Feb 11, 2013)

I was taught when you turn in the water back to the house you crack it open and wait until the hiss goes away. Only then do you slowly open the valve. This prevents the water from slamming into the shut offs and fixtures.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

johntheplumber said:


> I was taught when you turn in the water back to the house you crack it open and wait until the hiss goes away. Only then do you slowly open the valve. This prevents the water from slamming into the shut offs and fixtures.


Or have the outside sillcock opened when turning on the b box valve


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

johntheplumber said:


> I was taught when you turn in the water back to the house you crack it open and wait until the hiss goes away. Only then do you slowly open the valve. This prevents the water from slamming into the shut offs and fixtures.



I've been taught that as well. This is the first time I have ever seen two different style valves stops become damaged as result of water being turned on and off.


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

Indie said:


> Had to return to that job today because the valve was leaking profusely. Turns out it was not a new valve at all, but most likely original to the house when it was built late 70's or early 80's.
> 
> Valve was leaking from the packing, and was fairly quick and easy to replace.
> 
> ...


The hard hammer comes from draining the system, then turning it back on too fast after toilets have been flushed or leaked down during the repair.

When the air in the system is forced through the closet fill valves it often creates a real hard hammer that could easily rattle the piping around the closets enough to cause a leak.

This is a one time thing, though. If you repair the valves he shouldn't have any more hammer until the next RR tech does the same thing on the next repair.


It's either that or the RR tech _did_ get access and loosen the packing nuts and the HO wasn't aware of it


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## johntheplumber (Feb 11, 2013)

Maybe this should move to the sabotage thread. (Suspenseful music)


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

johnlewismcleod said:


> The hard hammer comes from draining the system, then turning it back on too fast after toilets have been flushed or leaked down during the repair.
> 
> When the air in the system is forced through the closet fill valves it often creates a real hard hammer that could easily rattle the piping around the closets enough to cause a leak.
> 
> ...



Let me defend R.R. and say that it was not them on the job. It was however a well known big name around here that maybe would engage in those tactics. Yes, it is possible that the tech went into the bathrooms without the homeowner even being aware. He did make a repair on the water line serving both toilets. 

It could be that he messed with the valves and just didn't pay attention to the a small leak that started. While it is not common knowledge to the public this company sends out non-licensed, minimally trained techs regularly because they have a hard time holding onto licensed Plumbers.


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## Relic (Sep 30, 2012)

Also don't discount a savvy HO. Many people are looking to scam freebies from anyone they can these days. HO knows the stops are original and should be replaced. Doesn't take too much forethought to work out how to get the plumber to replace them for free. Most scams rely on the victim being an honest person.


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## johnlewismcleod (Apr 6, 2012)

Relic said:


> Also don't discount a savvy HO. Many people are looking to scam freebies from anyone they can these days. HO knows the stops are original and should be replaced. Doesn't take too much forethought to work out how to get the plumber to replace them for free. Most scams rely on the victim being an honest person.



If the HO was one of those, he'd have called back the original shop for the repair.


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## Relic (Sep 30, 2012)

johnlewismcleod said:


> If the HO was one of those, he'd have called back the original shop for the repair.


True in this case yes, but I was speaking more to what can occur in these scam situations. Not necessarily in Indie's call here, but you are right.


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

Relic said:


> True in this case yes, but I was speaking more to what can occur in these scam situations. Not necessarily in Indie's call here, but you are right.


I have been o. The receiving end of these scams before. I just explain what happened was in no way a result of anything I did, it isn't covered under my warranty and I would be happy to take care of it for X amount. Sometimes they are mad, sometimes they understand either way, not my problem. This has more to do with OS and his don't apologize thread. The worst thing you can do is say sorry in those situations.


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## Plumberman911 (Dec 23, 2012)

rjbphd said:


> Which explains another stupid code that doesn't work, a dead end of 12" piece of pipe used for air chamber becomes useless after 3 weeks in service. Unless you recharge them every 3 weeks, precharge air chamber are the way to go.


Tell that to mike Holmes. Who praises his plumber on the show for doing it. I just laugh. He is suppose to be so smart


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

Plumberman911 said:


> Tell that to mike Holmes. Who praises his plumber on the show for doing it. I just laugh. He is suppose to be so smart


While it might be ineffective at times I think Mike Holmes promoting code is a good thing. 

The question might be, do you do all your work to code, or only the code you like?


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## Plumberman911 (Dec 23, 2012)

Indie said:


> While it might be ineffective at times I think Mike Holmes promoting code is a good thing.
> 
> The question might be, do you do all your work to code, or only the code you like?


I do it all to code because its my license and liability insurance at stake if something goes wrong. Permits or not. Inspections or not. I will lose money before I cut corners


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Plumberman911 said:


> I do it all to code because its my license and liability insurance at stake if something goes wrong. Permits or not. Inspections or not. I will lose money before I cut corners


 True, however, there are codes that so outdated and inspectors wouldn't know what it is.. example, alt needle gage?? That's havnt been used since 50's but its required because its printed in the code book.. dead end piece of pipe for air chamber??? Useless within 3 weeks.. in backwarx state of Illinois, not allow to hook up didhwasher drain to disposal connection which is MADE for it.. why not?? 4 " underground pipe just for laurdry room floor drain within 3 ft to pit.. get real.. and any can give me any reason why the pit lip must be 2" above the floor?? I like some answers other than " its what the code book says... "


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## Plumberman911 (Dec 23, 2012)

Rj what code year are y'all in? 

I can see your point. To a point. Like we are in the 2009 IPC. The main codes we use have been changed to more modern technique and materials, while the code still list older methods and materials still approved. So because I use he newer code, loosing my thought. It's to code. If something went wrong and a claim was made against me and a investigation was made as to the time work was done and the code cycle we were in was it done to code? You can bet it will be to the current code the work was done in. Codes get reworded, moved about and deleted and some just stay. 
I don't know I have a lot on my mind I can't concentrate. I have a lot of respect for you and Indie. I like that Mr. Holmes pushes codes. But his codes aren't our codes. He is on national tv with his codes in our area. And people eat him up like Jesus. Our IPC commentary says they do not work and does not recognize them as water hammers. That's all I was saying. I like Holmes but not when he pushes his stuff as god. For another example: he says do not caulk a toilet to the floor. IPC 405.5 says we do. I've had customers tell me after I've caulked the stool. Mike Holmes said not to caulk the toilet. Try and pass a inspection here if you don't caulk it.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Plumberman911 said:


> Rj what code year are y'all in?
> 
> I can see your point. To a point. Like we are in the 2009 IPC. The main codes we use have been changed to more modern technique and materials, while the code still list older methods and materials still approved. So because I use he newer code, loosing my thought. It's to code. If something went wrong and a claim was made against me and a investigation was made as to the time work was done and the code cycle we were in was it done to code? You can bet it will be to the current code the work was done in. Codes get reworded, moved about and deleted and some just stay.
> I don't know I have a lot on my mind I can't concentrate. I have a lot of respect for you and Indie. I like that Mr. Holmes pushes codes. But his codes aren't our codes. He is on national tv with his codes in our area. And people eat him up like Jesus. Our IPC commentary says they do not work and does not recognize them as water hammers. That's all I was saying. I like Holmes but not when he pushes his stuff as god. For another example: he says do not caulk a toilet to the floor. IPC 405.5 says we do. I've had customers tell me after I've caulked the stool. Mike Holmes said not to caulk the toilet. Try and pass a inspection here if you don't caulk it.


Last I checked as well other Illinois plumber.. our state code book have not been updated since 2004 and still have the freaking 50's set up of gas water heater with seprated pressure regulator for before gas valve as well the leaded t&p valve!!


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## Plumberman911 (Dec 23, 2012)

Wow. We are still in 2009. Because the state didnt want to adopt 2012 because of changes they do not agree with so we will update in 2015. Makes it easy for us


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Plumberman911 said:


> Wow. We are still in 2009. Because it takes the smartest okies we have 3 years to read the new book so we will update in 2015. Makes it easy for us


Fun with quotes^^^^^^


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## Jason1 (Nov 10, 2011)

Funny.... when I replace a ballcock and flapper, I always recommend a new supply tube (woven only) and stop (if its hard to turn) but I ALWAYS tighten the stop packing nut. See in my company, you work on a toilet you own that toilet. meaning if something goes bad within 30 days of that toilet (from the wall to the flange) its covered (less parts) oh and yes I recommend new stop,supply,flapper,ballcock,and if the toilet is loose a new wax and john bolts. they do sign off on any they don't want. but to loosen a packing nut for more work. (I couldn't sleep at night if I did that)


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

rjbphd said:


> True, however, there are codes that so outdated and inspectors wouldn't know what it is.. example, alt needle gage?? That's havnt been used since 50's but its required because its printed in the code book.. dead end piece of pipe for air chamber??? Useless within 3 weeks.. in backwarx state of Illinois, not allow to hook up didhwasher drain to disposal connection which is MADE for it.. why not?? 4 " underground pipe just for laurdry room floor drain within 3 ft to pit.. get real.. and any can give me any reason why the pit lip must be 2" above the floor?? I like some answers other than " its what the code book says... "



In our nice old out of date State,

Dishwasher drains into a Wye-branch tailpiece which should have an integral baffle, helps assist against "sudzing" that "may" happen when attached to a dishwasher knock out (not really relevant but it is what it is), unless you want to use an approved air gap fitting.

Sump pits (not sewage ejector pits) 2AFF to keep any sanitary back ups from getting into a non-sanitary pit and getting ejected to grade, since sump pits can not be ejected into the sanitary. In our jurisdiction above the plumbing code we require all sump pits for surface water collection to be "sealed" since we are in a class 2 radon zone, "no openings" should be allowed in any basement which penetrates the concrete (future bath roughs, pits, cracked floors, etc.). This nfirst came into affect when the code allowed a floor drain attached to a sump pit when NO other fixtures are in a basement except the furnace and WH, which must discharge indirect into a hub drain that may be trapped and discharge into the sump crock, but both the pit and HD must be at least 2" AFF. So if you don't do that utilize a ejector system with a FD tied into the sanitary.

4 " underground pipe just for laurdry room floor drain within 3 ft to pit,,, where do you see this at in the State Code?


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## user2090 (Sep 26, 2009)

rjbphd said:


> Last I checked as well other Illinois plumber.. our state code book have not been updated since 2004 and still have the freaking 50's set up of gas water heater with seprated pressure regulator for before gas valve as well the leaded t&p valve!!





Plumberman911 said:


> Wow. We are still in 2009. Because the state didnt want to adopt 2012 because of changes they do not agree with so we will update in 2015. Makes it easy for us



Earlier today I was going to brag :no: about how my State was so far behind. But to save embarrassment I checked on it, and as I stated in another thread Indiana has become current. Up till that point we were working out of the 1999 UPC with Indiana Amendments. 

Hope this positive change doesn't stop with only inconveniencing legit companies. Enforcing laws would help a lot. If the State issued fines for violations we would have plenty of money for Licensing Improvements.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

In Dupage county where inspectors comes in from ANOTHER county to inspect... had to rip out 2" pvc designed floor drain less than 3 ft to sump pit with a 4" cast iron .. and had to raise BOTH small pits, .. one for surface water other for laundery water.. oh by the way, it passed afterward with the ugly 4" cast iron drain being the highest point of the floor.. what a crock


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

rjbphd said:


> In Dupage county where inspectors comes in from ANOTHER county to inspect... had to rip out 2" pvc designed floor drain less than 3 ft to sump pit with a 4" cast iron .. and had to raise BOTH small pits, .. one for surface water other for laundery water.. oh by the way, it passed afterward with the ugly 4" cast iron drain being the highest point of the floor.. what a crock


Hate to say it, but this may be another case of either what the "inspector" *thinks is best* or possibly an ordinance within that county. There is nothing about a larger FD being required in the 2004 Illinois State Plumbing Code for a residential laundry application. There is mention about clear water waste discharge.
Although I have seen a washer discharge into a 3" wet vent with a FD close by sudz up when it was less than a few feet away from the wet vent. This is by no means code required.If the clear water system is for subsurface water then yes it must be raised a minimum 2" AFF, sealed sanitary systems no.

FYI:
*Section 890.1370 Floor Drains* 

a) Required. Any building or structure in which plumbing fixtures or piping is installed in or under a concrete floor to accommodate fixtures on the level of the concrete floor shall have at least one trapped and vented floor drain. When plumbing fixtures are installed on the level immediately above a concrete crawl space, at least one trapped and vented floor drain shall be installed. Additional floor drains shall be required if the installation of fixtures and appurtenances requires the use of floor drains. In a multi-family dwelling, each unit shall have a floor drain if fixtures and appurtenances installed therein require the use of a floor drain. 

1) Underground floor drains connected to a building drain or a building sub-drain within 4 feet of a stack shall be individually vented. All other floor drains shall be vented as required by Appendix A, Table I. 

2) Each floor drain shall be connected to a sanitary waste drain, except those drains receiving only clear water discharges which may be connected to the sub-soil drainage system. 

3)  Any sump or hub drain for receiving clear water waste shall extend 2 inches above the floor, and all indirect clear water waste lines shall be above the floor level.  *Any floor drain level with the floor shall discharge to a sanitary waste drain. (See Appendix A: Tables F and I.)*

4) At least one floor drain shall be located in every restroom having a masonry or concrete floor except those for private use. 

5) In hospitals and nursing homes, floor drains will not be required in toilet/bath facilities serving 4 or fewer individual residents where access to the facilities is direct from no more than 2 resident rooms. Toilet/bath facilities in hospitals and nursing homes serving rooms with greater than 4 residents or consisting of multiple toilets, lavatories, etc., are required to have floor drains. 

b) Size. Each floor drain shall be sized for its intended use and the surface area that it drains. Any floor drain or drain trap installed below a basement floor or underground *shall be no less than 2 inches in diameter.* 

c) Accessibility. Floor drains shall connect into traps, shall be accessible and readily cleaned, and shall be located so that they are easily visible. 

d) Provision for Evaporation. Floor drain seals subject to evaporation shall be of the deep seal type, shall be fed by means of a priming device designed for that purpose, or shall be filled with vegetable oil. 

*Section 890.790 Laundry Trays/Sinks and Drains* 

a) Waste openings. Each compartment of a laundry tray shall be provided with a waste opening at least 1½ inches in diameter and with a stopper or strainer. 

b) Commercial Laundry Drains. Commercial laundry machines shall discharge individually into a trapped and vented outlet or may discharge into a trapped and vented trench drain. (Also see Section 890.530(b), which requires all commercial laundries to have a lint separator/interceptor.) 

c) All laundry/washer boxes shall have a minimum of a 2 inch drain that is properly trapped and vented. (See Section 890.410(b).)

(Source: Amended at 28 Ill. Reg. 4215, effective February 18, 2004)


*Section 890.1340 Determination of Sizes for Drainage System* 

a) Maximum Fixture Unit Load. The maximum number of drainage fixture units that may be connected to a given size of building drain, horizontal branch, or vertical soil or waste stack is given in Appendix A: Tables G and H. 

b) Minimum Size of Building Drain, Horizontal Branches, Drainage Piping 

1) The minimum size of any gravity building drain shall be four (4) inches in diameter. 

2) Pressure building drains shall not be used where gravity drains may be installed. Pressure building drains shall be sized in accordance with the ejector pump manufacturer's recommendation but shall not be less than two (2) inches in diameter. 

3) Gravity drained horizontal branches of the building drain shall be sized in accordance with Appendix A, Table H. 

4)  * No portion of the drainage system installed underground or below a basement or cellar shall be less than two (2) inches in diameter. *

5) The drainage piping shall not be reduced in size in the direction of flow. 

PM me if you want to.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

GAN said:


> Hate to say it, but this may be another case of either what the "inspector" thinks is best or possibly an ordinance within that county. There is nothing about a larger FD being required in the 2004 Illinois State Plumbing Code for a residential laundry application. There is mention about clear water waste discharge.
> Although I have seen a washer discharge into a 3" wet vent with a FD close by sudz up when it was less than a few feet away from the wet vent. This is by no means code required.If the clear water system is for subsurface water then yes it must be raised a minimum 2" AFF, sealed sanitary systems no.
> 
> FYI:
> ...


Don't need all the mumbo jumbos on this floor drain as its the ONLY pipe to the pit from floor drain.. the laurndy waste is piped/vented to the pit seprately.. this inspector was power tripping with a badge of autourity and pizzed me off more that he claimed he doesn't have to show his plumbing leinsece... yes I did report him to the state and they just protecting their own inspectors but yet wasting time going after lienesced plumbers that don't have their number on the trucks for the public to write down on their own permit.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Furthermore, re read the mumbo jumbo.. since the drain is less than 3 ft, why did the power tripping inspector say I need to vent the 4" CAST IRON drain ??? And ur right, where did it say must be 4 "?? So what recourse do I as well other common sense plumbers have here??


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## GAN (Jul 10, 2012)

Well you should be familiar with the code you tested on. Which means that what the AHJ wrote you up on may not have been correct, which you should have questioned him on. 

DOES not need to be 4" (never said it did, in fact highlighted the minimum size requirement), without seeing your set up can not comment on the vent distance, would need to be vented either way by a separate or approved common vent. Venting off a pit is not an approved vent (even though it makes sense).

No mumbo Jumbo. 
*Read the code*, ask why when written up or at least ask what code section the inspector is talking about if you don't know, which you should. Then don't roll over and make a change without knowing or being proven wrong by the AHJ

Instead of complaining, educate or ask the one who wrote you up. YES he does need to show you his license if asked to do so,,,period.

I was attempting to show you that it is *NOT* required by the 2004 IDPH plumbing code, not to as why that inspector wrote you up. why he did not identify himself, or why you just changed it without requiring proof.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

GAN said:


> Well you should be familiar with the code you tested on. Which means that what the AHJ wrote you up on may not have been correct, which you should have questioned him on.
> 
> DOES not need to be 4" (never said it did, in fact highlighted the minimum size requirement), without seeing your set up can not comment on the vent distance, would need to be vented either way by a separate or approved common vent. Venting off a pit is not an approved vent (even though it makes sense).
> 
> ...


 Dupage county own plumbing code in the county stated 4" min for any underground plumbing pipe and cast iron... but yet its okay to connect to sdr 26 pvc sewer pipe.. backazzward imo.


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## 130 PLUMBER (Oct 22, 2009)

rjbphd said:


> Dupage county own plumbing code in the county stated 4" min for any underground plumbing pipe and cast iron... but yet its okay to connect to sdr 26 pvc sewer pipe.. backazzward imo.


 
I think they are referring to the plumbing inside of a building


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

130 PLUMBER said:


> I think they are referring to the plumbing inside of a building


Right, so why is the waste diferrent coming from cast iron to pvc pipe??


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## 130 PLUMBER (Oct 22, 2009)

rjbphd said:


> Furthermore, re read the mumbo jumbo.. since the drain is less than 3 ft, why did the power tripping inspector say I need to vent the 4" CAST IRON drain ??? And ur right, where did it say must be 4 "?? So what recourse do I as well other common sense plumbers have here??


 

This is the main reason why i call every single plumbing inspector when i'm pulling a permit. I always ask them which code do they follow, City or State...
From the sound of it looks like you had a plumbing inspector that follow the city code


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

130 PLUMBER said:


> This is the main reason why i call every single plumbing inspector when i'm pulling a permit. I always ask them which code do they follow, City or State...
> From the said of it looks like you had a plumbing inspector that follow the city code


We were in uncorprated of the dupage county getting inspected by outside private iinspection company from kane county.. don't get me started on the failed inspection on PRECHARGED air chambers that isn't 12 inches long..


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

130 PLUMBER said:


> This is the main reason why i call every single plumbing inspector when i'm pulling a permit. I always ask them which code do they follow, City or State...
> From the sound of it looks like you had a plumbing inspector that follow the city code


Good point there, 130, wondering if u ever ask them to show their plumbing leinsce?? U'll get a surprised look on their faces.. and some mumblins where I can't read their lips..


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## 130 PLUMBER (Oct 22, 2009)

rjbphd said:


> Right, so why is the waste diferrent coming from cast iron to pvc pipe??


 
All i know is that i ran a rough-in for a restaurant in maywood and the inspector called for pvc drain & waste on a commercial job


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

130 PLUMBER said:


> All i know is that i ran a rough-in for a restaurant in maywood and the inspector called for pvc drain & waste on a commercial job


Good choice there.. u won't see that happens in uncorp dupage county... and wonder on the resturant waste.. do they required to cool the hot water waste before going into pvc drains??


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