# IBC Boiler Retrofit



## Scott K

So I'd like to showcase some of my very recent work. This job is 100% my work from start to finish including the hydronic design/selection of boiler, indirect tank, and associated components, removal of the old natural draft Hydrotherm and Natural Draft Hot water tank and associated piping/components, alterations to accomodate new boiler with behind the wall piping/wiring (wiring pertaining to gas fitting which my ticket covers), some framing, plywood installation, painting said plywood and boiler/indirect installation accomodating the fact they need hot water at all times which means I had a really long day in there when I had to shut down the existing hot water tank, do the vent piping with the PP venting up the chimney and install the indirect HWT in it's place and get it going so they could have hot water. 

I'd like to mention a funny story that is related to this job. For nearly 4 years I worked for a company that did a fair amount of hydronics & plumbing in high end custom homes and some commercial projects. One of our main service guys whom I worked with from time to time doing the odd service call has been doing hydronics & gas fitting for about 30 years and I l had the fortune of learning a fair amount off of him. He told me in the 80's and early 90's he worked for a company that did a lot of Hydrotherm boiler installations so whenever I see or hear of Hydrotherm boilers I think of him. Anyways, since moving on from that company (I now work on commercial/industrial boilers), him and I BS on the phone every few monthes about work, boilers, etc. and our most recent phone conversation about a week ago was very how shall we say - ironic, bordering on funny. 

The system that was originally installed about 25 years ago in this house when the house was built has radiant floors on all 3 levels. The top 2 levels have staple up radiant using these neoprene tubes, on the bottom floor the tubes are in a concrete slab. They used a fair amount of non-o2 barrier Poly B as the mains to the manifolds and the neoprene tubes do not have an O2 barrier as well. So this partially contributed to what was the demise of the boiler system - the boiler had a fair amount of sediment in it from Oxygen permeation through the pipe walls causing all sorts of corrossion internally on any ferrous components including the heat exchanger obviously. But you go back in time to "those days" and guys didn't know any better - the advancements in hydronics to where they are today in the past 20 years has been mind blowing. 

So I talked to this guy I mentioned above about a week and a half ago for the first time in a while. We were going back and forth on the phone about work and so I was telling him about this job and a bit about the owner and how I ended up getting the job (long story - bit of a schmooze job I guess) and I could tell his mind was churning over the phone about what I was telling him and so he asks me specifically what the owners name was and I tell him and he goes: "Ohhh.....!!" He shouts - "that boiler you're ripping out - I did the install there over 20 years ago!" So the boiler I ripped out for this boiler retrofit? It was a job my buddy did way back when. Too funny. 

Anyways - the pictures below - the boiler is IBC's (made in Vancouver) recently introduced in the past year SL 20-115 which modulates from 20,000 BTUH to 115,000 BTUH. The indirect tank is a Bradford White RTV 52 Gallon (replaces a 50 gallon atomspheric hot water tank) and all the pumps are stainless steel grundfos Alpha's (which use 50-80% less power than your standard comparable 15-58) isolated with Isolating ball valve flanges. The boiler heats 6 zones of radiant floors mentioned above, the indirect hot water tank, as well as stainless Hot Tub heat exchanger (the spa side of the heat exchanger is not piped yet - to be piped in the Spring) through the priority control built into the boiler. Due to the lack of oxygen barrier in the distribution system there are now no components in the system that can rust hence the requirement for stainless steel pumps and/or all non ferrous components as well as a potable expansion tank.

I chose Grundfos Zone valves over the standard Honeywells. They are a little more pricey but they are much, much easier to service/replace (you can remove the motor and replace it with a push of a button if it ever fails and you can service the internals with the valve in place apparently plus I like the wiring terminals you run wires to, which I crimped connectors onto). Note the use of panduit to conceal the wires. The two 6 x 6 x 4 boxes - the left one houses the 75 VA transformer, the right one houses the 2 terminal strips that I brought all the T-stat and zone valve wires into - much nicer looking and easier to wire & troube shoot than Merets. 

Since this system has some sludge/sediment in it from the previous install and lack of O2 barrier I knew that not only would I need to do some flushing of the distribution, but that I will also need something to remove this dirt as the new circulators do their magic. So I chose a product that was recently introduced for residential applications - the SpiroQuad. This is a combination Dirt Seperator, Air Seperator, Low Loss Header/Hydraulic Seperator. The thing I like about it over the other variants in the industry is on top of it's all bronze construction (or is it brass), it has FULL media in stainless steel mesh from top to bottom. This interferes with the flow to in a much better fashion to create a low pressure zone for air to move up and dirt to fall down. Combined with this, it also serves as a slow spot for mixing of supply/returns of the boiler and the supply/return of the system. Note the use of the boilers system sensor taped on the supply with insulation/foil coming out of the SpiroQuad - this tells the boiler the temperature of the system so it can ramp up or ramp down to achieve a more accurate temperature of the system since there are often different flow rates between te boiler pump and system pumps. 

I chose to utilize the recently introduced Centrotherm PolyPropolene for the exhaust piping with their corrugated chimney kit (not pictured) that uses the existing chimney as a chase. The install overall was not bad and the push fit nature is beautiful. I like this material because it has a higher temp rating than CPVC (230 F vs 194 F) and it is built specifically as a vent material, does not have the potential to leech chlorides back on the heat exchanger which some claim CPVC can do overtime (although mind you it is a downfiring exchanger in this boiler so it's not as big of a deal), and it's much more environmentally friendly. Overall a win-win. 

And yes - the pictures show no vaccum breaker on the inlet of the water heater domestic supply - it was cut in after as I couldn't find the tee I swear I ordered.


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## U666A

Scott;

As per usual, a well documented, perfectly articulated explaination of an amazing work of art.

I must admit, my knowledge of hydronics is VERY limited, and only marginally present due to plumbers like yourself who share their know-how, and from reading whatever I can.

Incredible looking install! 
:notworthy:

I tip my hat to you sir!

UA


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## plbgbiz

Nice!!


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## bizzybeeplumbin

Thats so perrty! Awesome job. I dont do boiler or hydronic work, it just wow's me when I see such clean work!

wish the electricians could get their act toghether! Somehow make their stuff a little more straight and uniform like our pipework

I love the strapping, I used the same when I did my tankless installs. I can't find them here in NC tho! 
:thumbsup:


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## Mississippiplum

I think I know what I'm lookin at lol. 

Looks great, I love how u supported everything.


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## plumber666

IBC's are such nice boilers. I've used them in several retrofits in schools and apartment buildings. I might like Trinity boilers a wee bit better, though. They're also made in Canada (New Brunswick?). They have a flat black casing and all you really see is the touch screen in front. I put one in a winery for a dedicated 180 degree system for washing down stainless steel tanks. I'm a big fan of less is more. 120 gallon tank, boiler, circ pump, that's it. They never run out of hot water. Little bit easier to program than IBCs too.

Sweet install, Scott!


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## Scott K

Thanks for the compliments. I know that I am still learning all the time and I love using and working with high quality products and creating (or attempting to create?) a very serviceable, aesthetically pleasing, and well performing system. 

Here are a few more pictures.

The first picture is a closer up picture of the zone valves and zone valve wiring going into the Panduit as well as the connectors going into the terminals. I also used my wife's fancy label maker to put zone labels on, however I wish she had some white printer strip in there and not clear as shown. 

Also pictured is the Indirect Tanks sensor port connectin where I installed a Tekmark 071 sensor into the well, then I stuffed a piece of foam insulation in behind it and taped the entrance. I also used crimped butt connectors to join the wires, and I electrical taped overtop of the butt connectors for some minor level of water proofing, however, if I had more time (we are a bit busy right now) I could have gone further and using heat shrink tubing for to cover the butt connectors. Note the drain I piped into the bottom line going into the indirect coil with Dahl 1/4 turn hose bit and I make damn sure I put hose bib caps (can't stand the ones with the chain) on all my drain points. Since I did flush this system, but I still know there is a fair amount of sediment in it - was my reason for orientating the drain on the side of the pipe and not on the bottom so sediment does not have the oppurtunity to foul the dahl valve overtime. 

Related to this - related to the next picture of the indirect pump. Note the use of isolating ball valve flanges where I used an iron pipe ball valve flange on the inlet and a sweat ball valve flange with purge point on the outlet of the pump. Then on the return I have a valve and a seperate tee with dahl valve. This allows me to hook up a hose and purge it in both directions as part of more flushing if ever needed, as well as if I ever had to drain the coil for some reason, I can use these to help power purge the system by closing the valve and flushing that way. It really helps remove air much faster and get the system operating with no sound sooner. 

You might also have noted in the original pictures I started this thread with that I have some 1 1/2" ABS running along the bottom that goes into some stand pipes. I have 3 - 24" stand pipes tying into this horizontal ABS line that goes to the floor drain in the room (piped into it but it still has floor drain capability). One serves the condensate drain for the boiler (as it is a condensing boiler). The other serves the discharge for the Pressure relief valve for the hydronic system (there is an air gap you may have noticed although hard to see) and the other serves the drain for the T & P relief valve for the hot water tank. Then I used reducing couplings (3 x 1 1/2") as sort of a funnel, however I made a conscious effort to ensure I piped directly into the center of the pipe as you get less incidental splash. I learned this stand pipe thing from an inspector - if you have a 24" stand pipe give or take, assuming you use reasonable sized drain pipe relative to your relief valve pipe size and pressure, water can not back up in the drain pipe enough to spill over when the relief valve is dumping, especially if you pipe it dead centre. 

The other thing you may have noticed is I made this system a closed system - there is no "ON" water feed all the time like some systems (if you see the water feed in the pictures above, note it's a double hose pipe connection with a backflow preventer, and pressure reducing valve - if a pipe ever failed and caused a leak in the system you wouldn't get a constant introduction of water into the house causing a major flood. The good news is there are no leaks in the system - right now LOL. But in an aging system that could change. The boiler has an internal pressure sensor that shuts the boiler down if no water pressure is detected.


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## plbgbiz

OK, I'm done. I'm never posting a pic of my crooked pipes ever again. 

You got some nerve showing off all that craftsmanship. :thumbup:


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## BROOKLYN\PLUMB

That's a perfect job, so please don't take my nitpicking the wrong way 
I don't like the the way you used the threaded rod bracket and ring hangers as they are both intended to support from above (I understand the threaded rod is short so it won't bend as easy), I love to use Kindorf and its meant to support from the side. 
Seriously great job looks great


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## BROOKLYN\PLUMB

I just saw the exposed contact on the zone valves, that would not pass a boiler inspection here even though it's only 24 volts they want nothing exposed, so I could never use that control


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## Scott K

BROOKLYN\PLUMB said:


> That's a perfect job, so please don't take my nitpicking the wrong way
> I don't like the the way you used the threaded rod bracket and ring hangers as they are both intended to support from above (I understand the threaded rod is short so it won't bend as easy), I love to use Kindorf and its meant to support from the side.
> Seriously great job looks great


Thanks for the point - mind showing me a link to what you mean exactly (product pictures, Kindorf, etc.). I've been using Microfix clamps which have a rubber insert since I started. I use a ceiling plate and threaded rod to anchor them on the wall with short rods (typically 5" or less in most cases) and to stiffen it up a bit if you put a threaded nut on the rod and tighten it up against the ceiling plate it adds a bit more reinforcement/stiffness to the set up. If I was doing slightly bigger/heavier pipes/components than the 1" stuff pictured, I'd use 1/2" EMT cut with tubing cutters to reinforce the rod and anything bigger the that I'd go with the strut system and some cush a clamps or something else. Generally though, I find you get super ridgid/solid pipes on the smaller stuff on the wall with the microfix clamp I described with some thought going into where you put them on the piping run to reinforce things. 

Also, concerning exposed wiring terminals - a very valid point and well taken. Personally I can not stand walking into a mechanical room with a bunched up pile of spaghetti merreted together which is quite common and a pet peeve of mine. I guess the advantage of the honeywell valves is if you butt connect the t-stat wire onto the wires that come out of the motor and then shrink wrap it, it would fit the code requirements you have in your area.


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## xyleman

awesome looking job! I too have used the micro fix clamps with ceiling plates with very good results on smaller piping,i would also like to see these other products as mentioned,once again nice job


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## BROOKLYN\PLUMB

I'm glad you took it the right way thanks


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## futz

Very pretty. Nice job, Scott.


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## Greenguy

Very nice is quite right. i love the fact in the area here is easy to get Support from them, i've had the company president out to do software upgrades before.


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## Scott K

GreenGuy - A couple years ago I was doing a service call at a house where I was having ignition problems with about a 6-7 year old 15-150 (installed around 2003-ish). I spent a good amount of time perfecting the ignition gap with a new igniter, even running a mini Ridgid see snake down the view port hole (the 15-150 has a removeable viewport fitting) to confirm the gap was proper, then watching it to confirm, adjusting as neccessary. The boiler would fire up, run for about 1-2 minutes and then drop out. The flame signal was fine in that time, then it would drop out all of a sudden. I had already replaced the igniter cable as well, all that was left was the Fenwal ignition module, or something else. I called Bruce the President of IBC on his cell phone at about 6 pm, who at the time was on his way home from work to see his daughters recital at school. He said he was going back to the shop to get a new Fenwal and he would meet me there. He spent about 2 1/2 hours with me going over every little thing, with one of his tech's on the phone as well, and we finally figured out the ground needed some attention with a file and some sand cloth, perhaps some very minor but unnoticeable surface oxidation at the time. The guy didn't even bat an eye and he went above and beyond. Now a days, since IBC has grown leaps and bounds even in the past 2 years with 2 new boilers added to their line up, he is difficult to get ahold of as he does some a fair amount of travel, but I still send him an email every now and then.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER

Looks great. I think I see the make up prv but what is the prv with the hose adaptor on it ??? Is the air separator also designed to remove dirt??? It is a sharp system. The design part of it is what I'd love to get into more of!! But all my stuff is done by engineers. I think you know your stuff that's for sure ...


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## Scott K

If you look at the picture, you'll notice I installed a Watts 1156 Pressure Reducing Valve set at about 15 PSI that feeds the system. Upstream of the 1156 is a Dual Check Valve backflow preventer (not testable), and the upstream of this is a hose bib with a double female connector on it. To fill the system hook up a hose to the hose bib and fill as needed, then shut off the valve on the hose bib and immediately downstream of the Watts 1156. The purpose of this is a twofold - By not having a continuously on make up water feed, if a leak or rupture ever developed in the system (which is an aging system), you wouldn't have a major flood that the feed valve continously feeds water into, and the boilers pressure sensor would shut the boiler down to prevent firing in a low water condition. Also, by shutting off the valve immediately downstream of the 1156, the 1156 and dual check valve will last significantly longer - probably for the life of the system. A common failure mode of an 1156 with a constantly on feed water valve is it fails wide open which often prompts an emergency service call due to the system being overpressurized and the relief valve dumping. The logic described above saves the homeowner money and allows their investment to pay them back sooner. 

The Spirovent Quad pictured is a combination Air Seperator, Dirt Seperator, and Low Loss Header/Hydraulic Seperator. There is the air removal device on the top of it as you can see common on their dedicated Air Seperators, and a dirt purge point hose bib on the bottom for dirt seperation which you would hook up your hose to. This thing has full stainless steel media for the length of the cylinder which makes a big difference in performance from an air and dirt seperation standpoint as it interferes with the flow more efficiently than having just nothing or just baffles.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER

Scott K said:


> If you look at the picture, you'll notice I installed a Watts 1156 Pressure Reducing Valve set at about 15 PSI that feeds the system. Upstream of the 1156 is a Dual Check Valve backflow preventer (not testable), and the upstream of this is a hose bib with a double female connector on it. To fill the system hook up a hose to the hose bib and fill as needed, then shut off the valve on the hose bib and immediately downstream of the Watts 1156. The purpose of this is a twofold - By not having a continuously on make up water feed, if a leak or rupture ever developed in the system (which is an aging system), you wouldn't have a major flood that the feed valve continously feeds water into, and the boilers pressure sensor would shut the boiler down to prevent firing in a low water condition. Also, by shutting off the valve immediately downstream of the 1156, the 1156 and dual check valve will last significantly longer - probably for the life of the system. A common failure mode of an 1156 with a constantly on feed water valve is it fails wide open which often prompts an emergency service call due to the system being overpressurized and the relief valve dumping. The logic described above saves the homeowner money and allows their investment to pay them back sooner.
> 
> The Spirovent Quad pictured is a combination Air Seperator, Dirt Seperator, and Low Loss Header/Hydraulic Seperator. There is the air removal device on the top of it as you can see common on their dedicated Air Seperators, and a dirt purge point hose bib on the bottom for dirt seperation which you would hook up your hose to. This thing has full stainless steel media for the length of the cylinder which makes a big difference in performance from an air and dirt seperation standpoint as it interferes with the flow more efficiently than having just nothing or just baffles.


Thanks that's great to know. I was thinking maybe that prv with the hose connection was what we call a quick fill!!! But wasn't sure !! And i like the idea on hafing a closed system !!! I definently like that air separator!! Iv never done any radiant heating. It's always AHU FCU and VAV. But I like your system. Is this your specialty or you do all kinds of plumbing???


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## Plumber patt

Very nice! Very clean! Hydronics has always interested me!


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## Tommy plumber

Very nice and neat looking work....:thumbsup:


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## bikefitter0

you did a great job. real nice


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## plumber666

OK, that's enough. Scott's gonna get a fat head we keep this up. Try to find something negative. Like, I found one valve in those photos that I'd never have put in. That just takes away everything else that's good with the install and flushes it down the toilet. Boooo!:thumbup:


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## plbgbiz

plumber666 said:


> OK, that's enough. Scott's gonna get a fat head we keep this up. Try to find something negative. Like, I found one valve in those photos that I'd never have put in. That just takes away everything else that's good with the install and flushes it down the toilet. Boooo!:thumbup:


I agree. After further evaluation, I see the pipe dope on the brass fittings is white Teflon of some sort but the gas piping looks like yellow Rectorseal. This is clearly hack work at its worst. :laughing::jester:


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## Scott K

*Threaded connections*

Any hydronic water piping that was threaded I put together using heavy duty pink (why is heavy duty Pink?) teflon with select unyte white pipe dope, and the gas piping I used yellow gas teflon with masters pro dope metallic pipe dope. The guys I work with now - mostly 'A' Industrial Gas fitters, and a couple Pressure welders, like to use yellow teflon for EVERYTHING threaded.


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## ZL700

Ok here's one

Galv split rings on copper? Shame shame

Where do the vents go?

Is the intake drawing in above the exhaust?


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## Plumber patt

Im just not a fan of the type 'm' copper piping used... Not worried about pin holes with the constant circulating water?


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## Scott K

Those are not Galvanized Split Rings on the Copper. They are a Microfix clamp, which like a split ring hanger, open up and have a screw to close them with a hinge, however unlike a split ring hanger, they have a thick rubber insert that fully, and completely, seperates/isolates the copper pipe and hanger from each other. They also clamp down on the pipe a bit better than your average split ring hanger and are much easier to work with in my opinion. 

Concerning Type 'M' pipe - the Type M Copper is only used on the hydronic water side, NOT the domestic water side, which is type as L. The Hydronic water piping is at 15 PSI and sees temperatures in the 100-160 degree range depending on whether the radiant floors indirect, or spa will be calling for heat from the boiler. In a well set up system that is not overpumped and overheated than neccessary (which this sytem is - definately not overpumped, and not seeing the 180 degrees many copper systems see that I have ripped out that are 20-40 years old) I would expect 30-40 years out of the Type M pipe before the odd problem may be seen (remember the fittings are thicker too). It is speculated that most condensing boilers will see a 20-30 year life in a well designed and maintained system depending on quality of heat exchanger, components, etc. Also, the water is NOT constantly circlated. The system is set up as per the boiler control as a priority system. So when there is a call for heat the boiler pump and the radiant pump (assuming a zone valve is open) will turn on and send heat to the zone valves at a specific temperature as is needed (the temperature it sets is based on outdoor reset and the water temperature range I have selected), and then if the indirect calls for heat the radiant pump turns off and the indirect pump turns on (and the boiler pump stays on) and the boiler ramps up it's temperature to heat the indirect. The indirect takes priority over the radiant and spa pumps/loads because maintaining domestic hot water output is important in most systems (and this system is no exception). The boiler has more than enough output to make up for the time it lost heating the indirect back up to temperature when it resumes radiant or spa heat exchanger heating. Thus, only the bare minimum of pumping is needed. And since I chose to use an Alpha set at a constant pressure setting, negating the need for a constant speed pumps with a differential bypass, only the exact amount of GPM's will be pumped to the individual zones as they open and close. Also note, the boiler pump, which will be on whenever any of the other 3 load pumps is on, is pumping through thick brass threaded pipe (equivilent of sch. 40). Note that all the fixed speed pumps are set to pump in the recommended velocities for metal pipe of 2 to 4 feet per second, which for 1" type M is 5.5 to 10.9 GPM's. This range is the range that effectively moves most air back to the air seperator, but does not over pump to the extent that you get errossion or velocity noise. Most are in the 7-8 GPM range for fixed speed circs which is right in the middle of the range. 

The flue gas exhaust is Centrotherm Polypropolene plastic rated for 230 degrees F to meet S636 venting approval by our gas code. I used the existing chimney, which the previous natural draft appliances (boiler, hot water tank) originally vented into, as a "chase" for their corrugated vent pipe kit and then ridgid pipe out of the chimney opening in the Mechanical room back to the boiler. This is installed as per their instructions and is approved by IBC as an approved vent material for their boiler. I piped the ABS intake for the boiler into the original sheet metal intake for the mechanical room so it would be a direct vent. This intake comes off the side of the house, so the exhaust and intake definately have a distinct seperation so re-ingestion of flue gas is not possible.


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## Redwood

Nice work! :thumbup:


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## Mxz--700

Beautiful job,that's the way we do em' too. Love seeing others creat art. Too many " as long as it works" hack butchers. Jim


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## Mxz--700

The thing I like is the fact that u put a drain as well as an isolation valve on the expansion tank,a practice I do also. Some guys think it's great that they put on a valve before the tank not realizing you still have to take the pressure off!!


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## ogre plumber

Very nice.By the way the company I work for we support pipes the same way you do it looks good and works well.I just got to know how many hours were invested in this masterpiece?


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## Greenguy

Why all the brass?


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## Scott K

*Brass*

Personal preference I guess. Part of it was for ease of installation and minimizing joints/connections on top of I like installing threaded fittings for the most part. The other part of it was I had a boiler with threaded tappings, a threaded spiroquad, lots of other threaded components, which sometimes copper/soldered connections isn't readily available or available period. On the flip side, I could have put brass tees for the zone valves but it is hard to get a hold of threaded zone valves with Grundfos so I just soldered them in. The other thing is since this system has distribution with no O2 barrier, I had to use all non ferrous (brass, copper, bronze) or stainless parts/components/piping.


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## CaberTosser

That's a really nice install, the only thing that concerns me is the use of Kitz brand ball valves; I've never put them in, but am finding that many if not most of them in client buildings seize up horribly. When the handle bends over and the ball either barely moves or doesn't move at all something is definitely not kosher. Our entire company has sworn them off. If it was just one building we found that issue in I could rationalize it was a bad installer overheating them, but I've found them in numerous buildings and some even in NPT instead of soldered are doing this. The size of a few of the buildings I've seen them throughout is staggering, it doesn't bode well for those poor condo owners and the board for the increased expenses they'll have to shoulder for even basic repairs when the service valves don't shut.

Back on topic, I have an IBC 15-150 in my own house and love it.


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## Plumbworker

nice work..

good job on the stainless pump volutes! as they have non barrier pex
i'm curious about those alpha circs a buddy of mine claims they have to be constantly powered in order for the cpu inside those pumps to learn the system curve he claimed you can't switch them with a relay?.. I'm a taco man myself so i don't have any experience with grundfos

what are you using that tekmar control for?

overall nice install


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## CaberTosser

Plumbworker said:


> nice work..
> 
> good job on the stainless pump volutes! as they have non barrier pex
> i'm curious about those alpha circs a buddy of mine claims they have to be constantly powered in order for the cpu inside those pumps to learn the system curve he claimed you can't switch them with a relay?.. I'm a taco man myself so i don't have any experience with grundfos
> 
> what are you using that tekmar control for?
> 
> overall nice install


 The boiler does allow for variable speed pump control, I could not cut & paste from the PDF install manual and I'm a bit ham-fisted with computers, but I'll link the IBC page with the link to its installation manual PDF and there is information in 2.6.3 regarding variable circulation control. I don't know whether it will interface with Grundfos's Alpha series circulators, but a call to a rep would probably sort an answer to that out. Reading through their manual is a brainful, but I appreciate that they wrote it in an understandable fashion, and their diagrams and such are concise.

http://ibcboiler.com/products/vfc-15-150-boiler/


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## budders

Wow nice flippin job man looks top notch


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## joepimms

Wow nice job dude good one on you


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## Catlin987987

Why not install rust inhibitor if there was non barrier pex installed? Why cheaper then SS pumps, and works just as good.


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