# 4" propress



## Maximumplumbing (Nov 6, 2010)

I'm looking at a job to replace a 4" water main shut off, maybe 6 feet of pipe and a few fittings. It's ductile coming in. I'm looking into the possibility of pressing as much as I can. Anyone press that big. Who and what have you used tool and fitting wise and what your thoughts were.


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## Relic (Sep 30, 2012)

Use Victaulic, the end.


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## Maximumplumbing (Nov 6, 2010)

I'm not familiar with that. I haven't been involved in a lot of larger diameter water works.


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## Relic (Sep 30, 2012)

Do you own the 4"propress tool?


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

Then get one of those big 4" sharkbites


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## Tim`s Plumbing (Jan 17, 2012)

If you use the Pro Press with XL-C fittings make sure to have a hanger on either side any joints. They like to twist and kick on the 2 1/2"- 4" fittings.


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

Works great. Check this link.


http://www.plumbingzone.com/f21/4-valve-install-6609/


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## Relic (Sep 30, 2012)

I don't trust propress for anything over 2", plus the 4" PP fittings are like $150 each.

Vic on the other hand is much cheaper and a much better joint overall. The fittings are inexpensive and comparable to sweat as far as price goes. You can buy a vic groover on ebay for cheap ($300)


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## AndersenPlumbing (Jan 23, 2010)

My supply house rents an electric propress and jaws for jobs like that. Rent is really cheap if you buy fittings from them.


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## victoryplbaz (May 19, 2012)

We have done 2 1/2, 3, and 4 and have had no problems. just got to make sure the pipe is clean! any dirt it will not last long.


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## JHITT (Feb 27, 2013)

I do a bit of 3" pro press often enough to comment. During the press, the squeeze can slightly alter the angle of the fitting, so know that ahead of time. I use the older heavy ridgid press. Perhaps this issue no longer exists with other models.


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## Relic (Sep 30, 2012)

JHITT said:


> I do a bit of 3" pro press often enough to comment. During the press, the squeeze can slightly alter the angle of the fitting, so know that ahead of time. I use the older heavy ridgid press. Perhaps this issue no longer exists with other models.


An intro is requested from all new members. In case you missed it, here is the link. http://www.plumbingzone.com/f3/.

The PZ is for Plumbing Professionals ( those engaged in the plumbing profession)

Post an intro and tell our members where you are from, yrs in the trade, and your area(s) of expertise in the plumbing field.

This info helps members who are waiting to welcome you to the best plumbing site there is.

We look forward to your valuable input.


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

Relic said:


> Use Victaulic, the end.


Grooving the ends of the existing pipe may not be workable.


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## Maximumplumbing (Nov 6, 2010)

Airgap said:


> Works great. Check this link.
> 
> http://www.plumbingzone.com/f21/4-valve-install-6609/


What are those flanged fittings you used exactly?


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## Relic (Sep 30, 2012)

RW Plumbing said:


> Grooving the ends of the existing pipe may not be workable.


You don't grove ductile, you put a transition flange on the end and then go vic.


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

Maximumplumbing said:


> What are those flanged fittings you used exactly?


They are viega. 4" lap joint raised face propress XLC.


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## Rando (Dec 31, 2012)

Nibco gun, Nibco fittings. No problemo.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

4" 90 4" pipe. Goss ga-32 tip. Roll of solder. 
No problem !!!


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## Rando (Dec 31, 2012)

Yeah, if it's just a few fittings i would just sweat it and be done.


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## SirPlumb (Feb 17, 2013)

I have been using ProPress for over 5 years and I have done 4" supply piping repairs on Hotels here in Chicago. I think ProPress is a awesome tool for repairs, it has been a absolute life saver for me when a positive shut down is not possible. To be honest I don't think they make ProPress over 4". I to also like Vic, both are great choices!


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## wyplumber (Feb 14, 2013)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> 4" 90 4" pipe. Goss ga-32 tip. Roll of solder.
> No problem !!!


This would be my vote


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## Maximumplumbing (Nov 6, 2010)

Sweat isn't an option. It's a huge nursing home. They've been through that before and say no way.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

I hear ur press has its place. But solder is still my fav. I just think the new guys will rely on it to much. If a new guy is gonna press 2 3 or 4". I think he should know how to solder it as well. I know guys that solder 1" all day but can't sweat 3" with out it leaking. Big pipe is a hole dif ball game. Not tryin to start the sweat vs press debate again Just saying that's all.


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## dclarke (Dec 22, 2012)

I have never sweat anything that large. What's so different about it ? I assumed as long as you have the right torch it shouldnt be any different.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

dclarke said:


> I have never sweat anything that large. What's so different about it ? I assumed as long as you have the right torch it shouldnt be any different.


O snap. How big have you sweat ?? I've sweat 6" and sil flos /brazed 4"


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## dclarke (Dec 22, 2012)

I've only done residential. I think 3/4 maybe 1"


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

On big pipe a oxy/ac. Torch is best but a big tip for b bottle works. It's all about heating pipe first and filling the valley on bottom first then from top down to valley from both sides And over lapping 
Each third unless you can get the hole pipe hot enuf for it to all run. Does any of this make sense ??


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

dclarke said:


> I've only done residential. I think 3/4 maybe 1"


You better get a pro press son !!!


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## dclarke (Dec 22, 2012)

Never had a need for it. If I do hopefully a supply house rents one.


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## dclarke (Dec 22, 2012)

I was present for a 2" line being soldered once. We only used bottle torches. I held a torch. We just used 2 torches to get it all hot enough but what you are saying definitely makes sense.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

You heat pipe first. It makes it expand into fitting tighter and you get better heat and better capillary action. Then heat fitting The balky is filled first or else all solder runs out of top down in to it. Then fill each side. If fitting isn't hot enuff to have it all run ( solder all in liquid state). Then you must reheat part of the valley and over lap the solder together. No matter what size you always solder this way you all ways start with lowest fitting and work your way up to highest fitting If you don't and you say Solder a coupling in vertical position and you solder top of coupling first then when you heat the bottom of coupling all the solder will run out of the top into the bottom and it will leak. The bigger the pipe the more this can happen. 1/2 to 1". Not so much. It's so small you can heat the top or fitting lay solder on top and it will fill in ware need be. But. Not on 2". Don't touch cleaned pipe with bare skin (fingers or hand) and twist fitting and pipe when you put it together. That helps to ensure flux is spread all over inside fitting


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## Rando (Dec 31, 2012)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> On big pipe a oxy/ac. Torch is best but a big tip for b bottle works. It's all about heating pipe first and filling the valley on bottom first then from top down to valley from both sides And over lapping
> Each third unless you can get the hole pipe hot enuf for it to all run. Does any of this make sense ??


It's not a good idea to use a #32 tip with a B tank.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Bs. Why not ??


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## Rando (Dec 31, 2012)

If you draw off the acetylene to fast you will start pulling the acetone out of the tank. Do you know how an acetylene bottle works inside? 
sorry about the thread derail OP.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Well I guess I don't know exactly. I know you cant lay it on its side. But it's just compressed gas inside. No liquid. U saying if it expands to fast it will seperate into diff gasses. Plz explain !!
???


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Lets move to random chat rando. I'd like to hear more.


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## dclarke (Dec 22, 2012)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> Lets move to random chat rando. I'd like to hear more.


I'm so proud of you moving the derailment all on your own.....meet ya in random chat.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

U wernt invited. Go solder ur 3/4 pipe. Lol.


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## dclarke (Dec 22, 2012)

You never went there anyways. For you every thread is random chat. I would hate being a mod on here playing cleanup. We appreciate everything you mods do. Thank you.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

dclarke said:


> You never went there anyways. For you every thread is random chat. I would hate being a mod on here playing cleanup. We appreciate everything you mods do. Thank you.


Job security. For them And yes I do. Peace out


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

Maximumplumbing said:


> I'm looking at a job to replace a 4" water main shut off, maybe 6 feet of pipe and a few fittings. It's ductile coming in. I'm looking into the possibility of pressing as much as I can. Anyone press that big. Who and what have you used tool and fitting wise and what your thoughts were.


I'd use my propress and never think twice about it. Fitting cost? Meh, even if they were three hundred each, that can be pennies compared to the overall cost of a water tight shutdown and sweating in the replacement valve (depending on the facility). Not to mention the risk of fire if it is near combustibles. 

I'm not scared of soldering bigger pipe. It is not always about the torch, but it is always about skill. I spent years routinely soldering 2" and 3" with Gramp's Prestolite because I did not know I couldn't. But just because I can does not mean I want to. I can pour with a running rope too but you won't see me lining up for that either. I likes my Ferncos.


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## Maximumplumbing (Nov 6, 2010)

Rando said:


> Nibco gun, Nibco fittings. No problemo.


I was told that Nibco didn't go that big on fittings or on their gun. That would be more like it. If so who can I buy the jaws from?


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

plbgbiz said:


> I'd use my propress and never think twice about it. Fitting cost? Meh, even if they were three hundred each, that can be pennies compared to the overall cost of a water tight shutdown and sweating in the replacement valve (depending on the facility). Not to mention the risk of fire if it is near combustibles.
> 
> I'm not scared of soldering bigger pipe. It is not always about the torch, but it is always about skill. I spent years routinely soldering 2" and 3" with Gramp's Prestolite because I did not know I couldn't. But just because I can does not mean I want to. I can pour with a running rope too but you won't see me lining up for that either. I likes my Ferncos.


Your are teaching my how to pour a lead joint rite ??? Plz. Lol


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## Rando (Dec 31, 2012)

Maximumplumbing said:


> I was told that Nibco didn't go that big on fittings or on their gun. That would be more like it. If so who can I buy the jaws from?


 I'll have to check with our tool guy on that.


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## Maximumplumbing (Nov 6, 2010)

Just got off the phone with my nibco guy. It is available. He says its done a little different than others. Sounds like the jaw hooks to a chain like device that makes the press. That's good news I think. 

So, another silly question what do you guys use to cut 4" copper. Then what to ream it or chamfer it.


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

Maximumplumbing said:


> Just got off the phone with my nibco guy. It is available. He says its done a little different than others. Sounds like the jaw hooks to a chain like device that makes the press. That's good news I think.
> 
> So, another silly question what do you guys use to cut 4" copper. Then what to ream it or chamfer it.


Wraparound, sawzall, Porta band,file/flapper wheel.


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## Rando (Dec 31, 2012)

Maximumplumbing said:


> Just got off the phone with my nibco guy. It is available. He says its done a little different than others. Sounds like the jaw hooks to a chain like device that makes the press. That's good news I think.
> 
> So, another silly question what do you guys use to cut 4" copper. Then what to ream it or chamfer it.


That is a 4" pressing chain in the pic i put up earlier.


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## Maximumplumbing (Nov 6, 2010)

I was thinking portaband. I didn't know if ridgid or anyone made a cutter and reamer chamfer tool this big.


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

Maximumplumbing said:


> I was thinking portaband. I didn't know if ridgid or anyone made a cutter and reamer chamfer tool this big.


I don't know either. I'm just used to either a PB or SZ...

Just remember there's a whole lot more o-ring to cut when you're putting it together, so prep the pipe the best you can....

Learned that the hard way...:whistling2:


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## plumbing ninja (Jan 15, 2012)

I would use a coupling like the Norma, Tee Key or Straubs and a torque wrench! No prep work req'd like roll grooving, No specialist tool bits req'd like in press fitting! Your std torque wrench and correct socket for your truck/van should be just fine! We use for council/works here all the time


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

Propress no prob, like Victory says just make sure it is held straight before clamping. Around here if the nursing homes are without water for more than an hr they need to report it to the state.


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## plumbing ninja (Jan 15, 2012)

Pressed a 3" for a ss vent line on the side of a building at a local hospital once! It was alot easier than I thought. It started off temperamental. worked out that you've got to align the tool and bigger press collars just right or else the sensor wont give you the green light! Only prob I had was someone called security about a man on the roof with a rifle! Knew something was wrong when the police came thru the roof access armed! Had to give a tool demo because they were curious how it worked?


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## Turd Chaser (Dec 1, 2011)

500' of 4" water main every connection propressed. Customer had huge time constraints and was overly concerned about heat from a torch. Make sure pipe and fittings are clean and that you mark the pipe to make sure that it is home in the fitting. We use PP all over whenever time or positive shut downs are an issue. Have never had an issue with it as long as it is installed correctly.


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

Maximumplumbing said:


> I was thinking portaband. I didn't know if ridgid or anyone made a cutter and reamer chamfer tool this big.


They do make cutters for pipe that big I have a cutter that will cut 4 in. The only thing is it leaves a ridge that causes problems if you don't file it. The wrap around and bandsaw is a lot faster and will cause less headaches.


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## MDPlumber1977 (Mar 4, 2013)

It took a while for the sell but I am an absolute believer in XLC-Press Joints. I have installed hundreds of both Viega and Elkhart 4" Press joints with (Knock on Wood) not one leak. The system works very well and saves a boat load of time. The fittings are expensive as hell though and Viega uses a long radius fitting which takes up more space then a standard pattern.


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