# Caroma Caravelle toilets



## MikeS (Oct 3, 2011)

Anyone done these yet? I had to install 2 today, replacements. Read the directions, looked simple enough. The flange system is pretty clever, allows for 10 or 12 inch rough. One piece, dual flush. But the weird part is securing it. These toilets had two holes at the back, for a lag bolt to the floor. Well, I was on slab floor, so I set toilet, used drill and small mason bit to mark holes, removed, then drilled out slab to proper size and used included molys. Reset and put lags. But these toilets move. The caulk is what is supposed to hold them in place. I just used DAP, but I might have to redo with silicone. These things are made in Australia. I had helper come out to help me carry them in the house, no way I was risking dropping one, or breaking my back, as they are a little heavy.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

When I set these I set them on tapered wooden shims.

Doing this allows you to caulk *under* the base as opposed to just caulking the exposed edge. Once you have a good bead under it you can pull the shims and let the excess caulk push out. Clean up the excess with a sponge and you're done.

I use PolySeam Seal -- It's a good adhesive caulk.

I really like these toilets -- They have a larger trapway than most domestic toilets and the guillotine style flush valve is nearly bulletproof.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Widdershins said:


> When I set these I set them on tapered wooden shims.
> 
> Doing this allows you to caulk *under* the base as opposed to just caulking the exposed edge. Once you have a good bead under it you can pull the shims and let the excess caulk push out. Clean up the excess with a sponge and you're done.
> 
> ...


Polyseamseal or, Phenoseal...:thumbup:

Great technique from Widders... :thumbup:

These toilets have a damn good flush and i recommend them for customers that crap bricks that defy normal toilets.... :thumbup:


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> When I set these I set them on tapered wooden shims.
> 
> Doing this allows you to caulk *under* the base as opposed to just caulking the exposed edge. Once you have a good bead under it you can pull the shims and let the excess caulk push out. Clean up the excess with a sponge and you're done.
> 
> ...


Wooden shims??? Are you kidding me? What do you think happens when they get wet and rot? I'll tell you....you no longer have a shim and your set up for a service call. Lead is the best shim to use, but I also like the sioux rubber shims. They are easy to cut with a razor knife


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Michaelcookplum said:


> Wooden shims??? Are you kidding me? What do you think happens when they get wet and rot? I'll tell you....you no longer have a shim and your set up for a service call. Lead is the best shim to use, but I also like the sioux rubber shims. They are easy to cut with a razor knife


Maybe you didn't comprehend what you quoted...

Try reading it again.... :yes:


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Michaelcookplum said:


> Wooden shims??? Are you kidding me? What do you think happens when they get wet and rot? I'll tell you....you no longer have a shim and your set up for a service call. Lead is the best shim to use, but I also like the sioux rubber shims. They are easy to cut with a razor knife


Rubber shims??? Are you kidding me? What do you think happens when little miss big bottom sits on the throne, they flex and can even work themselves out from under the base...setting yourself up for a service call. The hard plastic Sioux Chief are the best shims, lead is bad for your health.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Michaelcookplum said:


> Wooden shims??? Are you kidding me? What do you think happens when they get wet and rot? I'll tell you....you no longer have a shim and your set up for a service call. Lead is the best shim to use, but I also like the sioux rubber shims. They are easy to cut with a razor knife


 




Lead shims? Are you kidding me?....:laughing: Gotta be lead-free Mister.... Titanium shims is the way to go...that or glass, won't rust or rot...


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

We use composite shims, won't rust, rot, crack. And there easy to cut but there tough.


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## beachplumber (Feb 7, 2010)

3/4 pex cut with a taper. easy to cut, always availabel, and white too


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

beachplumber said:


> 3/4 pex cut with a taper. easy to cut, always availabel, and white too


 




What if it's a black Kohler toilet?......:laughing:


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

"Once you have a good bead under it you can pull the shims. . . . . ."

>shakes head<

Sheesh.


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Widdershins said:


> "Once you have a good bead under it you can pull the shims. . . . . ."
> 
> >shakes head<
> 
> Sheesh.


 




I think we should call you 'Widdershims.'........:laughing:


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Or...Woodenshims...temporarily that is...


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## eddiecalder (Jul 15, 2008)

Pennies + caulking seem to work the best for me.


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## MikeS (Oct 3, 2011)

I was wondering about the shim/caulk/remove shim method. How long before someone can sit on it? Also, I watched the install video from Coroma, and they said if floor is level, no shims necessary. I think it'll be fine with DAP, but from now on I'll use the stuff you guys recommend. Also, do you install the lag bolts in the back? They gave me two sets for each toilet, I guess in case you mess up the first try. I don't think I'll be trying to sell these toilets, however, like to sell American. Install alot of Kohler Cimmerons lately. Also, I made sure to tell the customer there is a sediment screen inside the connection at the fill valve. I can see the next time they turn the water off, and the toilets quit filling. (old galvy pipes).


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## Roscoe (Apr 18, 2011)

MikeS said:


> Anyone done these yet? I had to install 2 today, replacements. Read the directions, looked simple enough. The flange system is pretty clever, allows for 10 or 12 inch rough. One piece, dual flush. But the weird part is securing it. These toilets had two holes at the back, for a lag bolt to the floor. Well, I was on slab floor, so I set toilet, used drill and small mason bit to mark holes, removed, then drilled out slab to proper size and used included molys. Reset and put lags. But these toilets move. The caulk is what is supposed to hold them in place. I just used DAP, but I might have to redo with silicone. These things are made in Australia. I had helper come out to help me carry them in the house, no way I was risking dropping one, or breaking my back, as they are a little heavy.


Hey Mike
I have been installing these for years. Easy to install you must use silicone to stop them from moving use kitchen & bathroom type silicone, I turn the pan (toilet) upside down & run a small bead around the base close to the inside edge. Turn them over & push into waste connecter but when u set them up at the first stage I put a intermitant mark around the toilet, use a marker that you can rub off later it gives you a guide to place it down 1st shot so you don't spread the silicone everywhere. Great toilet suite to install !!!!!!
They are actually made in china now, Caroma stopped making them hear due to imports being cheaper to buy, too much competition now. Designed in Australia.
Roscoe


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> "Once you have a good bead under it you can pull the shims. . . . . ."
> 
> >shakes head<
> 
> Sheesh.


I see, the last part. I don't get why you would pull the shim out though? You then rely just on the caulking?


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

Tommy plumber said:


> Lead shims? Are you kidding me?....:laughing: Gotta be lead-free Mister.... Titanium shims is the way to go...that or glass, won't rust or rot...


Lead free? This isn't a faucet or on any parts of a water system, it's to shim the toilet between the tile. This is an old school method, works the best


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Michaelcookplum said:


> Lead free? This isn't a faucet or on any parts of a water system, it's to shim the toilet between the tile. This is an old school method, works the best


 




I was joking.....:jester: Glass shims? I thought glass would've removed any doubts with regard to me being serious.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Michaelcookplum said:


> I see, the last part. I don't get why you would pull the shim out though? You then rely just on the caulking?




The shims are so you can get caulk *under* the base of the toilet instead of just around the base of the toilet.


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> The shims are so you can get caulk *under* the base of the toilet instead of just around the base of the toilet.


I never remove shims, I agree to disagree


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Michaelcookplum said:


> I never remove shims, I agree to disagree


I think what you are not getting is that he only uses the shims to give a wee bit of lift to the toilet in order to get the caulk under the edge for a sure tight seal in order to keep some four hundred pounder from doing a sideways landing when sitting on the toilet and causing the toilet rotate or shift.

The purpose of his shims, in this case, are a specialty use and not for the standard shimming and leveling that you might be thinking.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Michaelcookplum said:


> I never remove shims, I agree to disagree


 The shims aren't meant to shim the toilet -- They are meant to get the toilet in the air just long enough to allow you to caulk *under* the bottom edge of the toilet.

If you've never set an unconventional toilet, then I get the confusion.

There are a number of toilets out there that are hollow and that do not physically bolt to the closet flange -- They slide horizontally or drop vertically into a rubber boot or trap standard and essentially float. Glueing them to the floor is the only way to keep them from moving.

Some examples are the higher end TOTO's, Caroma's, Sterlings, Blu's, Duravits and Laufens.


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

Widdershins said:


> The shims aren't meant to shim the toilet -- They are meant to get the toilet in the air just long enough to allow you to caulk *under* the bottom edge of the toilet.
> 
> If you've never set an unconventional toilet, then I get the confusion.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the clarification


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Michaelcookplum said:


> I never remove shims, I agree to disagree


 




Take a look here. This is what Widdershims is talking about:


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Tommy plumber said:


> Take a look here. This is what Widdershims is talking about:


 That was a sweet installation.

Call me a Commie or Appeaser all you want -- I really enjoy setting those Japanese/Malaysian/Chinese/Vietnamese/Dirty Knees et al water closets.

For a people who generally poop in a hole in the ground they dug with a stick -- They sure know how to design a water closet. Yes, I know just exactly how that sounds, btw.

I'm an angry, spiteful old fuquer and yet I cannot find fault with either their engineering or their science. It's an innovation to behold.

It just works. As advertised. I'm jealous.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

You call me Widdershims just one more time and I'm unleashing the Corgi's.

They are my minions and they will herd you, nip at your heels and then lick you to death if I give the order.:laughing:


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

Widdershins said:


> You call me Widdershims just one more time and I'm unleashing the Corgi's.
> 
> They are my minions and they will herd you, nip at your heels and then lick you to death if I give the order.:laughing:


 





You're Widdershins in all the other threads....only in this one you're not....:laughing:


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## U666A (Dec 11, 2010)

Tommy plumber said:


> You're Widdershins in all the other threads....only in this one you're not....:laughing:


Since he removes them... Riddershims?!? :laughing:


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Widdershins said:


> That was a sweet installation.
> 
> Call me a Commie or Appeaser all you want -- I really enjoy setting those Japanese/Malaysian/Chinese/Vietnamese/Dirty Knees et al water closets.
> 
> ...


It's a shame but Toto probably makes more toilets in the US than American Standard does....

http://totousa.com/Portals/0/BrochureDownloads/BAA-0410.pdf


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