# Drain assembly for vessel sink- Cannot find one!



## user8031 (Dec 14, 2011)

I am really hoping for some help from my fellow Pz'ers out here. Here is my problem-

I cannot find a drain assembly for 2 matching glass vessel sinks we are doing on a finish. These vessel sinks are without overflow by the way.

When the drain assembly is seated in the "etched" outlet which is slightly recessed, the flange part of the assembly is too wide, therefore it is not seating correctly plus when you tighten the lock nut from below, it wants to shift all over the place, plus I have to use a lot of plumbers putty to fill the space under the lip of the drain assembly.

So we tried another drain assembly that seats fine, except there are not enough threads left under the sink to get my rubber gasket and nut on.

If anyone has experienced this or knows any pointers, please tell me. 

Also, the vessel sink is made by comtemporary bath. It came from "Blowes" and the customer selected it and is hell bent on wanting this particular sink.


----------



## suzie (Sep 1, 2010)

I have a couple of vessels and I found the set-ups at the orange box store. Oe is a push lock and the other is like a pop-up that always stays open..they are sort of spendy 20 plus bucks with the ring it sits on


----------



## MarkToo (Dec 17, 2011)

We've always used the PO with the grated drain - a la commercial basin.

I can't recall ever having an issue with fit.


----------



## user8031 (Dec 14, 2011)

suzie said:


> I have a couple of vessels and I found the set-ups at the orange box store. Oe is a push lock and the other is like a pop-up that always stays open..they are sort of spendy 20 plus bucks with the ring it sits on


I appreciate your response. I already know all about the styles, whether it is umbrella or permanent strainer. We do not care about the cost. It is finding a correct fit.

I have been everywhere from Blowes, to the orange store to the supply house. Nodda! (as in no luck with the search)


----------



## suzie (Sep 1, 2010)

Guess I never had your problema...


----------



## CTs2p2 (Dec 6, 2011)

Suzie's espanol seems better, that's the secret to getting help at the big box.. 

How much help was my post = De Nada


----------



## suzie (Sep 1, 2010)

CTs2p2 said:


> Suzie's espanol seems better, that's the secret to getting help at the big box..
> 
> How much help was my post = De Nada


:laughing:



Overstock.com has a wide selection of drain assemblies to choose from for vessel...maybe this will help


----------



## Plumb Bob (Mar 9, 2011)

Maybe you could find one in China, thats probably where the sink came from


----------



## user8031 (Dec 14, 2011)

suzie said:


> :laughing:
> 
> 
> 
> Overstock.com has a wide selection of drain assemblies to choose from for vessel...maybe this will help


Thank You Suzie. At this point we will try anything to satisfy our customer before telling them they might have to choose a different vessel sink altogether.

We have installed PLENTY of vessel sinks, and have never ran into this problem.


----------



## seanny deep (Jan 28, 2012)

Phone the manufacturer of the sink and tell them to resolve the problem polietly and they should help u might want to buy Chinese for dummies before calling thou.


----------



## user8031 (Dec 14, 2011)

seanny deep said:


> Phone the manufacturer of the sink and tell them to resolve the problem polietly and they should help u might want to buy Chinese for dummies before calling thou.



I called the MFR. They said they would call me back. Have yet to get a call.


----------



## suzie (Sep 1, 2010)

Damn that box store crap. It causes more running and fiddle farting around all because the ho's want inexpensive in their home. Wouldn't you wanna putin quality?!:blink:


----------



## mccmech (Jul 6, 2011)

So the h.o. got the vessels & drain assemblies at Blowe's? The material should be compatible. No disrespect intended but are ya sure you're installing properly? I don't know how many vessel finals you've done but usually the strainer goes through the bowl with putty or sylicone under it, then bowl sits on the ring between the bowl & counter-top. The locknut gets threaded on from under the counter-top. Is that how yer doing it? Again, no disrespect, just brainstorming with ya.


----------



## user8031 (Dec 14, 2011)

mccmech said:


> So the h.o. got the vessels & drain assemblies at Blowe's? The material should be compatible. No disrespect intended but are ya sure you're installing properly? I don't know how many vessel finals you've done but usually the strainer goes through the bowl with putty or sylicone under it, then bowl sits on the ring between the bowl & counter-top. The locknut gets threaded on from under the counter-top. Is that how yer doing it? Again, no disrespect, just brainstorming with ya.


Yep. That is how we are doing it. Like I said, either the flange on the assembly is too wide for the outlet, therefore not "seating" properly OR we have an assembly that seats fine, but not enough threads left from underneath to thread onto with the gasket in place too.


----------



## coast to coast (Feb 17, 2012)

What about using a washer or washers to make up the difference or a piece of pipe cut to what ever the difference is . Kind of hacking it together but sometimes u gotta do what u gotta do to make it work .


----------



## user8031 (Dec 14, 2011)

coast to coast said:


> What about using a washer or washers to make up the difference or a piece of pipe cut to what ever the difference is . Kind of hacking it together but sometimes u gotta do what u gotta do to make it work .


Umm, we don't "hack". Either it is right or we do not do it. 

I appreciate your response though.


----------



## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

Lowes and HD sell them here


----------



## Miguel (Aug 10, 2009)

wyefortyfive said:


> Umm, we don't "hack". Either it is right or we do not do it.
> 
> I appreciate your response though.


Of course you don't and since I've had to polish many turds before, I respectfully submit that you resort to some quality "hacking" if the mfgr or blowes can't deliver for you.

Thankfully I haven't had to resort to drastic measures while installing the latest designer vessel lavs or whatever else they may dream up to throw at us BUT I do have to admit that there's been more than one install that threatened to get my goat.

That's why I never attempt to even begin to install a vessel lav without a tube of white, clear and transluscent ADHESIVE mildew resistant caulk, a bit of 1-1/2", 2" and even 3" PVC pipe and some krylon paint for plastic. Also try to keep a few different brands of plug and chain PO's on hand (the longer the threaded shank, the better!) Forget about a mech PO and just go with a "Clicker" style plug. (Push to close, push again to open)
and be prepared to find another method to anchor to the countertop than the PO nut thru the whole works.

The worst nightmare I ever had with one of those was similar to what you describe. The PO would barely grab enough thread to tighten onto the vessel let alone go thru a countertop to help anchor it! I wound up cutting a 3/4" slice of 3" PVC (I cut a deep bevel to match the basin before cutting it off the length of pipe) and glued that sombeotch with a ton of adhesive caulk. It was a bit of a trick since I had to not only be careful not to get sh$t on the underside of the frosted glass that it was made of furious but I also had to center and level the basin for final setting. Prolly a quarter tube of caulk from underside. Not my finest hour. :whistling2: I also cut and bent a Sioux bar and used screws and a hose clamp from below to help hold the whole mess. Squeezed somemore caulk thru the bottom just to be sure and then left a skull and crossbones note atop to alert the other trades that I might be forced to torture and kill them if they even LOOKED at the lav. After about 1/2 a day I went back and connected the supplies and drain (the drain took special attention as I wanted it to help hold this whole mess. It did and to my knowledge is still in working condition to this day.

PS: I'm still working on a potato cannon that'll launch one of these SOB's all the way back to China. I still get updates from NORAD telling me whether I achieved orbit or not and to please stop. I just pay the fines and keep trying. :laughing:


----------



## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Miguel said:


> PS: I'm still working on a potato cannon that'll launch one of these SOB's all the way back to China. I still get updates from NORAD telling me whether I achieved orbit or not and to please stop. I just pay the fines and keep trying. :laughing:


I've attained significant velocities with mine using fuel properly mixed from an oxy/acetylene torch in mine...

It is no longer a handheld potato cannon...


----------



## mccmech (Jul 6, 2011)

wyefortyfive said:


> Yep. That is how we are doing it. Like I said, either the flange on the assembly is too wide for the outlet, therefore not "seating" properly OR we have an assembly that seats fine, but not enough threads left from underneath to thread onto with the gasket in place too.


How about if you eliminate the ring between the bowl & countertop? Will that gain you the extra threads needed? How will the bowl look sitting directly on the countertop? I have installed vessel bowls directly on the counter & found it doesn't look awkward. Besides, for the most part h.o. doesn't realize a ring comes along with drain assembly.


----------



## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

mccmech said:


> How about if you eliminate the ring between the bowl & countertop? Will that gain you the extra threads needed? How will the bowl look sitting directly on the countertop? I have installed vessel bowls directly on the counter & found it doesn't look awkward. Besides, for the most part h.o. doesn't realize a ring comes along with drain assembly.


I've done that before. Thumbs up


----------



## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

I am thinking it is not a problem with the sink or drain. It is a problem with the granite top being thicker than usual. Find a touch drain or a spin drain that uses a regular pop-up and use a piece of plastic to cover the overflow holes and use a top and bottom gasket. Porblem solved.


----------



## user8031 (Dec 14, 2011)

Richard Hilliard said:


> I am thinking it is not a problem with the sink or drain. It is a problem with the granite top being thicker than usual. Find a touch drain or a spin drain that uses a regular pop-up and use a piece of plastic to cover the overflow holes and use a top and bottom gasket. Porblem solved.


Will not work for this particular application. I appreciate your input though.


----------



## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

wyefortyfive said:


> Will not work for this particular application. I appreciate your input though.


Post a picture as things are not being clearly explained.


----------

