# Pricing out a water closet re-set



## jeffreyplumber (Dec 7, 2009)

Been reading another thread and see some of you do a thorough job on a basic re- set. I find I need to keep costs low. 
So If you get a call to re-set a water closet and you always put a sweat angle stop , hard chrome supply line, clean everything with alcahol. how much is your bill?
I typicaly charge 1 hr labor plus about 10 bucks. to cover parts (relacing only the supply line with a braided line) about 70 bucks
Im thinking I should up my price by almost double and add more work to the job. Make more money do a better job but feel Ill lose a lot of work .
Just wondering seems like most people want cheap and wont pay . what do you all run into?


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## Dun' Right (Sep 27, 2010)

I usually charge 1 hour and about 20 bucks in parts (wax, suppy, bolts).


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## Dun' Right (Sep 27, 2010)

That's what I quote people when they call, because that's what most companys around here charge. 

That being said. I am always on the lookout for something that needs to be fixed or tinkered with while I'm there. I'll point it out to them, and they have the option to do anything about it. 

I'm not pushy to get them to do the extra work, but I will deff. tell them about any possible problems or damage that could result from not addressing the issue.


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## Airgap (Dec 18, 2008)

Unless they ask otherwise, I don't change a stop that works....

If the supply looks good it's staying too...

Always bolts...wax obviously....

1 hour minimum plus material...


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

At a minimum, I'll charge an hour plus bolts, wax, and misc. (cleaning, caulk, etc.). Around here there are a lot of nylon supply lines and I change them out ALWAYS. I use braided ss lines and I'll change out those too if they look old. We also have a lot of the one piece stop/supply lines. If that's the case, I install a new Brasscraft stop and ss supply. Obviously, if the flange needs attention, I'll mention it to the customer and recomend the repair. 




Paul


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

jeffreyplumber said:


> ...Im thinking I should up my price by almost double and add more work to the job. Make more money do a better job but feel Ill lose a lot of work....


Not every task has the same profit margin. Some projects lend themselves to higher margins while smaller, more common tasks can be so market driven by competition that your hands are tied. If the price is beat down too far, you may be better off passing on the job/customer altogether.

Determine your billable hour rate need and strive to average that monthly. It won't matter if some jobs are less and others are more profitable as long as your monthly budget is met. This is where how much of a particular thing you do matters.

If 95% of your time is spent on a particular types of calls, then it is easier to make the bulk of your budget there than on the quickie odd ball calls that may not be your norm. Of course it is easier to have every job pay the exact same margin but that is very difficult, if not impossible to accomplish.


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## beachplumber (Feb 7, 2010)

Thsts much cheaper than i can do it for, but my costs may be higher.

Don,t worry what we chargr, or what the comp. Charges. Charge whst u need to charge to succeed.

Ots been said here before know ur cost.

When i figured what i NEED to charge it was suprising.

I haven,t seen a decline in work volume anytime i,ve raised my rates although i have weeded out few pita accts/customers


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## jeffreyplumber (Dec 7, 2009)

Thanks for the comments. I guess a lot of us still using stainless supply line as opposed to a hard line and not changing every angle stop.


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

I used to work for a guy that had a rule that you changed every angle stop of any fixture you serviced because the customer needed it because the angle stop was likely not to work the next time the water needed to be shut off. 

If it was on thread pipe, you had to replace the nipple too. Most time they guys wound up breaking the nipple off in the wall and opened the wall. 

Also had a rule that if a toilet plugged up, you had to pull it to inspect from both ends and also replace the tank to bowl bolts EVERY TIME. He said the TTB bolts and seal might leak and then you'd have a callback. 

Basically, a toilet stoppage could be built up to about $700 bucks and this was in 1999.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

If the stop drips from the packing while Its being turned off/on then we replace it. Or if it is really hard to turn. And a chromed copper supply line everytime, makes the install look clean and professional. We use sweat stops on copper stubouts, and the stops with cpvc inserts in the ends for cpvc stubouts.


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## studmaster1 (Dec 10, 2011)

Dun' Right said:


> That's what I quote people when they call, because that's what most companys around here charge.
> 
> That being said. I am always on the lookout for something that needs to be fixed or tinkered with while I'm there. I'll point it out to them, and they have the option to do anything about it.
> 
> I'm not pushy to get them to do the extra work, but I will deff. tell them about any possible problems or damage that could result from not addressing the issue.


 
I am the same way. I think of it like taking your car to a mechanic for an oil change and your car breaks down when you're halfway there because you had a frayed belt and he never gave you the option to fix it, you would be pretty mad at him. I nothing else you're giving him a heads up.


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

ChrisConnor said:


> I used to work for a guy that had a rule that you changed every angle stop of any fixture you serviced because the customer needed it because the angle stop was likely not to work the next time the water needed to be shut off.
> 
> If it was on thread pipe, you had to replace the nipple too. Most time they guys wound up breaking the nipple off in the wall and opened the wall.
> 
> ...


Did you work for RR? 

1hr plus parts. Maybe a flapper with that too. Around here if you "break it off in someone" word gets out. everyone knows everyone. I would rather give them what the need on the toilet and try to find other things they need for more $.


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## BROOKLYN\PLUMB (May 21, 2010)

Mississippiplum said:


> If the stop drips from the packing while Its being turned off/on then we replace it. Or if it is really hard to turn. And a chromed copper supply line everytime, makes the install look clean and professional. We use sweat stops on copper stubouts, and the stops with cpvc inserts in the ends for cpvc stubouts.


I don't think that tightening up a packing nut means the valve needs to be replaced unless thats why they called and it wouldn't stop dripping after tightening. Just sounds unethical 
The next thing is you have a slow week so maybe you loosen the packing nut.


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## liquid plumber (Nov 25, 2011)

iffin a customer is shopping us over the phone i quote $110.0.....2wax, supply line and labor.


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

150$ min. 1 hour labor, wax, supply, and disposal of old water closet.


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

To pull a toilet and reset new one that is already on site( and it's standard installation) I charge $169 plus parts(wax,bolts,supply line, about $15) this also includes disposal of old toilet. If they dispose toilet I knock off $9. If i have to pick up toilet from supply house i charge extra $30. I am in northern VA so I can get away with higher prices.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

BROOKLYN\PLUMB said:


> I don't think that tightening up a packing nut means the valve needs to be replaced unless thats why they called and it wouldn't stop dripping after tightening. Just sounds unethical
> The next thing is you have a slow week so maybe you loosen the packing nut.


We don't take a chance on a call back, Normaly when water is dripping out from the packing, the packing is shot. (the water here is horrible, that's what causes the packing to deteriorate most of the time).


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## beachplumber (Feb 7, 2010)

It is my under standing that packing wears with time and use, and that is why u can tighten or replace the packing.


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

A local supply house here accepts old water heaers and water closets when you purchase new ones there. Boxes and all no charge to contractors.


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

DesertOkie said:


> Did you work for RR?
> 
> 1hr plus parts. Maybe a flapper with that too. Around here if you "break it off in someone" word gets out. everyone knows everyone. I would rather give them what the need on the toilet and try to find other things they need for more $.


Nope. Back then the local RR was trying to compete as the low price leader. Eventually they went out of business. 

No, this guy was a PSI groupie and insisted that you "re think" how you diagnose service. It was an all or nothing situation. I gave him 30 days of a tryout and quit because I could not treat people like that. Even the most benign discoloration would cause the urgency of talking immediate repipe.
It disgusted me.


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

Qball415 said:


> A local supply house here accepts old water heaers and water closets when you purchase new ones there. Boxes and all no charge to contractors.


Same here, I still charge for this service though.


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## jeffreyplumber (Dec 7, 2009)

Qball415 said:


> A local supply house here accepts old water heaers and water closets when you purchase new ones there. Boxes and all no charge to contractors.


 I think they do that every where a guy charging 9 bucks to haul it off is more than fair. When I got a real low ball custumer I will tell them that too. especialy when they got their own parts. But in most of my work I generaly try to get enough money to not have to leave them with a water heater or W/C


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## JK949 (Mar 18, 2009)

Figure about an hour and a half whatever that costs you to keep the area clean. One piece angle stops get changed out. Existing two piece can stay if they work smoothly without drips. Just be thorough before quoting. If the tank internals are shot, consider a new toilet instead.


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## Mxz--700 (Jul 8, 2011)

$200 here, usually L/M aLWAYS new supplyChrome, Ect. $hit holes get the flex, new bolts(set fast) and if it is at all bad, a new valve.There was a flat rate company here that used to charge $350 to change wax seal and if u needed a supply tube(which any true professional would always change) it would add another $125 and that was in 1995. Guys were on commission and went by some nutty flat rate pricing guide.


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## studmaster1 (Dec 10, 2011)

Michaelcookplum said:


> To pull a toilet and reset new one that is already on site( and it's standard installation) I charge $169 plus parts(wax,bolts,supply line, about $15) this also includes disposal of old toilet. If they dispose toilet I knock off $9. If i have to pick up toilet from supply house i charge extra $30. I am in northern VA so I can get away with higher prices.


Actually thats pretty cheap for Northern Va. The company I work for charges 297.00, thats a basic pull and reset, supply valve is extra.


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## studmaster1 (Dec 10, 2011)

ChrisConnor said:


> Nope. Back then the local RR was trying to compete as the low price leader. Eventually they went out of business.
> 
> No, this guy was a PSI groupie and insisted that you "re think" how you diagnose service. It was an all or nothing situation. I gave him 30 days of a tryout and quit because I could not treat people like that. Even the most benign discoloration would cause the urgency of talking immediate repipe.
> It disgusted me.


I moved back to Va from FL. a couple of years ago. I swore I would never work for a commission based company because it gave the tech motivation to sell people stuff they don't need. But the only job I could get was with one. But I have never once done anything unethical, or sold someone something they didn't need. If I see one of my customers at supermarket, we smile at each other and chat. That being said I know there are some guys who take advantage of someones situation to pressure them into making decisions which they normally wouldn't. I could't look my kids in the eye If I went around taking advantage of people.


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## Michaelcookplum (May 1, 2011)

studmaster1 said:


> Actually thats pretty cheap for Northern Va. The company I work for charges 297.00, thats a basic pull and reset, supply valve is extra.


I work for myself, and they're a lot of hacks here working cheaper.


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

Mxz--700 said:


> $hit holes get the flex.


That's very interesting.


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## Mxz--700 (Jul 8, 2011)

easttexasplumb said:


> That's very interesting.


Still going eh?? Yeah they do..... Again For the who regularly use em, the question is, Would you use them in your OWN house??? If you do you got serious issues...... Again is slop hole rentals and the like yeah SOMETIMES you may need to use them . Do i need to type slower for some of you that may not have went to higher education?? LOL @ you. Enjoy doing sub-par work today!!!


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## easttexasplumb (Oct 13, 2010)

Mxz--700 said:


> Still going eh?? Yeah they do..... Again For the who regularly use em, the question is, Would you use them in your OWN house??? If you do you got serious issues...... Again is slop hole rentals and the like yeah SOMETIMES you may need to use them . Do i need to type slower for some of you that may not have went to higher education?? LOL @ you. Enjoy doing sub-par work today!!!


That was two days ago. I have moved on obviously you are off your meds or have a drug problem.


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## ChrisConnor (Dec 31, 2009)

Mxz--700 said:


> Still going eh?? Yeah they do..... Again For the who regularly use em, the question is, Would you use them in your OWN house??? If you do you got serious issues...... Again is slop hole rentals and the like yeah SOMETIMES you may need to use them .





The quality of the home should not lower the quality of your workmanship, according to your hypocritical standards, that's what you do.

I use them in my own home.


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## tungsten plumb (Apr 15, 2010)

Wait did I miss something? When did ss flex lines become subpar :blink:


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## Mxz--700 (Jul 8, 2011)

easttexasplumb said:


> That was two days ago. I have moved on obviously you are off your meds or have a drug problem.


 Obviously you havent if you Quoted that statement LOL. Feeling guilty of what you do in peoples homes heh? AS for me and you .... different levels son... You wil just never be.....


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## Mxz--700 (Jul 8, 2011)

ChrisConnor said:


> The quality of the home should not lower the quality of your workmanship, according to your hypocritical standards, that's what you do.
> 
> I use them in my own home.


 Damn right it does, when i go to a slop hole where the cust,. dont care if i get urine or feces on me im going to lower my standards to Chris Connor workmanship, call it hypocritical if you like but its really not. If i had stated that i NEVER use them anywhere then that would be hypocritical , but since I stated that i only use them in dumps it is therefore NOT hypocritical. (I wouldnt really care if it was though) Your definitions of words are as poor as your workmanship apparently. A little schooling eh? REALLY in your own home LOL SAD........:laughing:


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## Mxz--700 (Jul 8, 2011)

tungsten plumb said:


> Wait did I miss something? When did ss flex lines become subpar :blink:


 Since the day they were first manufactured.


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## SlickRick (Sep 3, 2009)

Mxz--700 said:


> Damn right it does, when i go to a slop hole where the cust,. dont care if i get urine or feces on me im going to lower my standards to Chris Connor workmanship, call it hypocritical if you like but its really not. If i had stated that i NEVER use them anywhere then that would be hypocritical , but since I stated that i only use them in dumps it is therefore NOT hypocritical. (I wouldnt really care if it was though) Your definitions of words are as poor as your workmanship apparently. A little schooling eh? REALLY in your own home LOL SAD........:laughing:


Can the crap talking.


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## tungsten plumb (Apr 15, 2010)

Mxz--700 said:


> Since the day they were first manufactured.


:laughing: please tell me this guy is joking


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

Mxz--700 said:


> Damn right it does, when i go to a slop hole where the cust,. dont care if i get urine or feces on me im going to lower my standards to Chris Connor workmanship, call it hypocritical if you like but its really not. If i had stated that i NEVER use them anywhere then that would be hypocritical , but since I stated that i only use them in dumps it is therefore NOT hypocritical. (I wouldnt really care if it was though) Your definitions of words are as poor as your workmanship apparently. A little schooling eh? REALLY in your own home LOL SAD........:laughing:




You might need to pick up a dictionary there chief. What you're doing is the very definition of hypocritical. You're chastising someone for using ss supplies while admiting you use them yourself. It doesn't matter where you use them, it's the fact that you do use them that makes you a hypocrite. The fact that you don't understand that makes you an idiot as well. Also, you freely admit to lowering your standard of work for a house that you view as a "dump". Any self respecting tradesman wouldn't lower his standard just because he thought the house was crappy.

It might be hard to do sometimes, expecially when the homeowner obviously doesn't care. You still need to try your best at every job putting the quality of work in that you would use in your own home. I know your type. The person that usually speaks the loudest is that gets made fun of at their shop and is usually inept. I bet you can't plumb your way out of a paper bag. After all, if you were confident in your plumbing skill, you would help others to attain what you believe is superior service and quality.

This is the very thing that most of the people on here try to do, and is the reason for most of the posts on the zone. You aren't going to convice anyone here of your plumbing greatness. All we're convinced of is your piss poor attitude and your insecurity in your trade.


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