# Phone pics



## tim666

7 bath home. We just finished the rough in yesterday


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## tim666

Shower install with kitec pipe just off center enough to work


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## tim666

Our first radon mitigation system


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## tim666

6 bath underground


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## ShtRnsdownhill

on pic 1 why didnt you use a double cross tee to tie in both sinks, or with the y, didnt you just tie the vents together above rim level?
with the radon system any primer on those pvc joints? not picking on you, just asking...


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## tim666

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> on pic 1 why didnt you use a double cross tee to tie in both sinks, or with the y, didnt you just tie the vents together above rim level?
> with the radon system any primer on those pvc joints? not picking on you, just asking...


I don't like using the double cross just for augering purposes. The vents are tied together just above the picture. The vent had to be run horizontally to the first perpendicular wall because the truss was directly above the wall. 
The radon piping, we were trying to keep it as tidy as possible so we used clear primer


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## Michaelcookplum

What the tee for on radon? 

When do they pour basement floors after drywall? 


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## tim666

Michaelcookplum said:


> What the tee for on radon?
> 
> When do they pour basement floors after drywall?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


We had to take a second suction point for this house in the attached garage. 
Because Nova Scotia weather is fairly unpredictable and the fact that they want to get the framers started they usually get the first floor on when we start the underground and then usually pour shortly after our inspection


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## A Good Plumber

I agree with you about the "double cross" fitting or fig 5, but in pic #1 I would have drilled through the stud and moved the tee closer to the far right lavy, because the trap arm looks longer than 3'6" and out here UPC limits a 1-1/2" trap arm to 3'6".

Otherwise the workmanship looks clean.


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## tim666

A Good Plumber said:


> I agree with you about the "double cross" fitting or fig 5, but in pic #1 I would have drilled through the stud and moved the tee closer to the far right lavy, because the trap arm looks longer than 3'6" and out here UPC limits a 1-1/2" trap arm to 3'6".
> 
> Otherwise the workmanship looks clean.


We get 6 feet on an 1 1/2" trap arm in the Canadian code


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## A Good Plumber

tim666 said:


> We get 6 feet on an 1 1/2" trap arm in the Canadian code



Wow! 6', that's not allowed in the UPC until 3" trap arm.

Is 1/4"per ft fall the requirement?


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## tim666

Yes. 1/4" per ft. 6ft before we siphon. 8ft on 2" and 12ft on 3"


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## 89plumbum

tim666 said:


> Yes. 1/4" per ft. 6ft before we siphon. 8ft on 2" and 12ft on 3"


Same for IPC. Nice job


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## SHEPLMBR70

Is that ABS?


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## tim666

SHEPLMBR70 said:


> Is that ABS?


Yes


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## Michaelcookplum

So is the tee going the wrong way? Also why use pvc on radon and abs on drains? Also couldn't tell but is there some pvc underground on one of those pics? Why not just use pvc everywhere 


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## Plumbus

Tim
Which Sigma style are they using for the toilet actuator? If it's the 60, you'll have to get the modification kit. Been burned by that before.


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## tim666

Michaelcookplum said:


> So is the tee going the wrong way? Also why use pvc on radon and abs on drains? Also couldn't tell but is there some pvc underground on one of those pics? Why not just use pvc everywhere
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The ty is actually going the wrong way for the air flow, but they do condensate so it is pointed to drain down the vertical. We typically use the 4" df in undergrounds and the switch to abs for 3" and below. If we rough in above grade it is all abs. PVC drainage is mostly only used around here for commercial applications


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## tim666

Plumbus said:


> Tim
> Which Sigma style are they using for the toilet actuator? If it's the 60, you'll have to get the modification kit. Been burned by that before.


I only do residential plumbing so these wall hung toilets are still fairly new to me. This is only the 6th one that I have done. They are Kohler Veil, so far we have had no issues


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## Michaelcookplum

Gotcha makes since now. What fitting do you use to transition from pvc to abs? Is abs cheaper then pvc?


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## tim666

Michaelcookplum said:


> Gotcha makes since now. What fitting do you use to transition from pvc to abs? Is abs cheaper then pvc?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


We call it a sewer sleeve. It is a fair bit cheaper


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## Michaelcookplum

tim666 said:


> We call it a sewer sleeve. It is a fair bit cheaper




Picture of your transition fitting?


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## rwh

I don't like that my seven bath home has pex stubouts


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## tim666

Michaelcookplum said:


> Picture of your transition fitting?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


On the left is 4" abs x df (sewer sleeve) , right side is 4" df x 3" abs bushing


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## Tommy plumber

tim666 said:


> Our first radon mitigation system












Can you elaborate on radon mitigation?


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## GAN

Tommy plumber said:


> Can you elaborate on radon mitigation?


In some States a "passive mitigation" system is required. Illinois for instance. On all new homes. It consists of a 3" pipe (PVC mostly in Illinois but any approved DWV piping is acceptable) stubbed down into the rock below below grade or rock under a crawl space. I suggest using a tee on its side. Then the rock is covered with poly, lapped at least 6" and all seams taped. All penetrations through the plastic (conduit, DWV, posts ) are taped and sealed. All cracks or holes through the concrete basement floor or slab on grade are sealed.

The passive vent goes completely through the building and terminates through the rough. Any offsets in the piping are suggested to be on the lowest floor, since it is a convection system. No testing is required in Illinois on a residence. Since a lot of finance companies and GI loans require testing, if the residence tests high after the passive system it can be converted them by licensed individuals to an "active" system with a fan.

High levels of Radon are hit and miss in my area. Older homes are not as tight so the levels may register lower. All schools & daycare buildings must be tested in Illinois.

http://www.ilga.gov/legislation/ilcs/ilcs3.asp?ActID=3422&ChapterID=37

https://www.illinois.gov/iema/NRS/Radon/Pages/RealEstate.aspx

https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2014-08/documents/archdraw.pdf


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## tim666

Tommy plumber said:


> Can you elaborate on radon mitigation?


Same as GAN said. In this part of Nova Scotia, radon is fairly high. It is a byproduct of decomposing uranium, most of this part of the province is built on granite. By code here they require a 4" pipe into the gravel on new construction. However it has only been this way for about 5 years. 
Without this pipe we have to break the concrete, create a suction pit in the gravel and mechanically exhaust to outdoors and then drill test holes through other parts in the basement to ensure we have negative pressure under the slab
We have to be certified for radon testing and/or radon mitigation. I am not yet, so my boss who is plans the job, I do the work and he does the testing. As I haven't taken the course yet there is not much more that I can offer


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## Dpeckplb

tim666, Have you been told if you now have to install a heat recovery device on the main drains?


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## tim666

Dpeckplb said:


> tim666, Have you been told if you now have to install a heat recovery device on the main drains?


Not yet, right now the homeowner gets some sort of rebate from the province but not yet mandatory


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## Dpeckplb

tim666 said:


> Not yet, right now the homeowner gets some sort of rebate from the province but not yet mandatory


We do starting in January. Basically from the info the inspector its a 48" chunk of copper drain with a coil around it. In the coil it has to be piped in from water service to feed the water heater. That way any warm water from say a shower pre heats the water. Its the dumbest idea I've ever heard of.


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## tim666

Dpeckplb said:


> We do starting in January. Basically from the info the inspector its a 48" chunk of copper drain with a coil around it. In the coil it has to be piped in from water service to feed the water heater. That way any warm water from say a shower pre heats the water. Its the dumbest idea I've ever heard of.


I have put in a few and never really understood why. Seems like you are spending hundreds of dollars to save pennies


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## GAN

With the ICC energy codes becoming more of a mandate in the States they must use or face a reduction in federal dollars. You are going to see more and more of these "energy" saving devices.

Following the 2015 International Energy Conservation Code is law in Illinois by a public act. Some fo the more populated areas are and have been enforcing this.

If you compare a home that was built to 2006 standard to the 2012 IECC, it is near 30% more efficient. From 2012 to 2015 it is only .07% better. We are starting to get to a point of diminishing returns. Projections toward 2030, they want us to get another 30& more efficient. That is going to be a task. The single biggest thing next should be more solar use to get there.

We are not to a point where a stack heat recovery system is mandated, but I bet it will be coming.


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## dhal22

tim666 said:


> I have put in a few and never really understood why. Seems like you are spending hundreds of dollars to save pennies


I had this idea years and years ago and then noticed that the winter olympic venues in British Columbia (?) used this heat reclamation idea. I would like to know how that worked for them.


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## tim666

I tried wrapping 1/4" copper around my smoke pipe for the woodstove to see if I could heat a cast iron rad but I only got it coming back barely less than lukewarm

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## spanplum

I tried that coiled 10m of 10mm around steel chimney, do not work very well , next was to use the coil for a still, work in progress


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## fixitright

spanplum said:


> I tried that coiled 10m of 10mm around steel chimney, do not work very well , next was to use the coil for a still, work in progress




Moonshine, waste goes to feed the pigs and chickens.
Makes the critters happy and the folks too!

Start growing corn in the back .15


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## dhal22

A couple of toilet flanges........


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## dhal22

To all plumbers that don't work for me; please bury large prv's and give my sons a job in the future. And use galvanized pipe as well............

And that is large electrical wires and a high pressure gas main in the hole.


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## tim666

dhal22 said:


> A couple of toilet flanges........


What is flange 2?

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## dhal22

A roof scupper/overflow drain connection (I think).


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## ShtRnsdownhill

was taking a piss in a county building and they had 2 urinals piped this way, guess code doesnt count for government work...


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## GAN

Your correct. Most municipalities give themselves the right to adjust any ordinances or codes to their benefit.


Probably a parks department employee and not a plumber.


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## tim666

Pulling a pump in the back yard. The homeowner tells me this was his last plumber

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## tim666

Garage powder room

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## ShtRnsdownhill

tim666 said:


> View attachment 94034
> 
> Pulling a pump in the back yard. The homeowner tells me this was his last plumber
> 
> Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk


LOL.bet you kept an eye on the homeowner as you worked............or at least when it got time to get paid...:laughing:


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## tim666

Nah. It's Nova Scotia, who doesn't have a couple bodies wrapped up for winter until the frost thaws in the spring

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## mtfallsmikey

tim666 said:


> 6 bath underground


 Ahh... brings back memories of my youth, my brother and I were the pick/shovel men on basement rough-ins.


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## chonkie

tim666 said:


> View attachment 94042
> 
> Garage powder room
> 
> Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk


That wall mount had to be fun to install considering the difference in wall thickness for the spout and the valve. Most single handle wall mounts are on a mounting plate or just have a short piece soldered between the two. I've never seen one where the trim would make up that difference. How was that one set up? What did you have to do to get it to work?


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## tim666

chonkie said:


> That wall mount had to be fun to install considering the difference in wall thickness for the spout and the valve. Most single handle wall mounts are on a mounting plate or just have a short piece soldered between the two. I've never seen one where the trim would make up that difference. How was that one set up? What did you have to do to get it to work?


The spout was actually just a slip fit tub spout with an o-ring and set screw to the copper stub out. The valve body was all that came in the box like a shower valve.








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## HonestPlumb

If the studs are 16" on center, it's close to the 3'6". We get 5' here in NJ. 8' for 2", and 10' for 3". Because of the snaking problem with a cross TY ( as we call them), inspectors allow us to use cross Wye's (Y's). with street 45's. Works with back to back, as well. Better for vanity's than pedestals though. Sticks out a bit once you put a street trap adapter in the 45, for a chrome(if chosen finish) P trap. Usually a "Box" escutcheon, will cover the trap adapter, and slip nut. When used with an 1 1/4" P trap. Don't like seeing plastic trap on a pedestal. I still use 3/8" chrome nipples and angle stops, with chrome lav supplies(not SS braided), for a pedestal. Old dog, new tricks thing ! Apologies for getting off topic !


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## dhal22

Find the pipe.


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## dhal22

Find the galvanized pipe.


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