# R/I for disposal



## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

Most here know, but for those who do not, I also besides being a plumber also do building as well. So please forgive me for forgetting. I have to install a double bowl sink with a under mount sink. There is a deep bowl and a shallow one. If memory serves me right, the GD goes on the shallow bowl side, then arms over to the deep bowl side. How high to center off the finished floor is the waste set at? I was thinking 14" to 16" is what I used to do. If it was lower than needed I would use a 1-1/2" x 6" extension tube to compensate. 

Sound right?


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

I rough kitchen sinks no higher than 12". You can use an extension if the rough is too low, you're screwed if the rough is too high.


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

Killertoiletspider said:


> I rough kitchen sinks no higher than 12". You can use an extension if the rough is too low, you're screwed if the rough is too high.


Got that right KTS!
Thanks for the 12" R/I


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

Attention all new con plumbers! Rough them in lower than they need to be and spend $1.20 on the extension. That way, in 15 years when they are ready to remodel and use a deeper sink, the swap out is much easier and the fact that you don't have to tear the back of the cabinet out may make all the difference in the sale for the poor old service plumber just trying to make enough money so he can take home a loaf of white bread, jar of mustard, and a stick of balogna to his poor hungry children and his wife.


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

smellslike$tome said:


> Attention all new con plumbers! Rough them in lower than they need to be and spend $1.20 on the extension. That way, in 15 years when they are ready to remodel and use a deeper sink, the swap out is much easier and the fact that you don't have to tear the back of the cabinet out may make all the difference in the sale for the poor old service plumber just trying to make enough money so he can take home a loaf of white bread, jar of mustard, and a stick of balogna to his poor hungry children and his wife.


Sounds like you had a bad experience!


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

smellslike$tome said:


> Attention all new con plumbers! Rough them in lower than they need to be and spend $1.20 on the extension. That way, in 15 years when they are ready to remodel and use a deeper sink, the swap out is much easier and the fact that you don't have to tear the back of the cabinet out may make all the difference in the sale for the poor old service plumber just trying to make enough money so he can take home a loaf of white bread, jar of mustard, and a stick of balogna to his poor hungry children and his wife.


Where can I get a 20 GA brass slip extension for under $8.00?


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

You can't but for those of us who operate under plumbing codes that find no evil in pvc slip joint extensions they can be had lots of places for a couple of bucks.


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

But if you're going to use brass don't ride the fence. Either use the 22 gauge so that I'll have some repair work out of it one day or use the 17 gauge which has a reasonable chance of out living us both or at least lasting to the next rehab.


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## 22rifle (Jun 14, 2008)

Killertoiletspider said:


> Where can I get a 20 GA brass slip extension for under $8.00?


You use 20 ga?


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

22rifle said:


> You use 20 ga?


Yes.

17 GA is kind of overkill in my opinion.


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## service guy (Jun 26, 2008)

20 gauge is garbage, it rusts and cracks too quickly...even pvc tubular will outlast it.:no:


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

service guy said:


> 20 gauge is garbage, it rusts and cracks too quickly...even pvc tubular will outlast it.:no:


Brass does not rust.

I think you are are referring to 22 GA for the splitting.


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

I am often in the overkill business. Many people take comfort from the overkill and are willing to pay for the overkill precisely because it is overkill. I can't tell them that 20 gauge will never rot because I've seen it rotten. I can't tell them that 17 gauge won't rot for that matter because it's the same material and given enough time, it will rot also. I can tell them however that I have never seen rotten 17 gauge and that is plenty good enough for many people.

Heavy things sell better.


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## service guy (Jun 26, 2008)

Killertoiletspider said:


> Brass does not rust.
> 
> I think you are are referring to 22 GA for the splitting.


Nope 20 gauge...maybe 'rust' is the wrong technical term, but 20 gauge rots out very quickly. Trust me, all I do is service work, and I see it all the time.


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

smellslike$tome said:


> I am often in the overkill business. Many people take comfort from the overkill and are willing to pay for the overkill precisely because it is overkill. I can't tell them that 20 gauge will never rot because I've seen it rotten. I can't tell them that 17 gauge won't rot for that matter because it's the same material and given enough time, it will rot also. I can tell them however that I have never seen rotten 17 gauge and that is plenty good enough for many people.
> 
> Heavy things sell better.


There is a difference, you are selling product, I am installing what the architect speced, which is usually a 20 GA polished nickel p-trap, so we use the same gauge for the kitchen wastes.

We do use 17 GA fine thread tailpieces though, because they actually have some taper and can make up without bottoming out and still leaking.


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

Killertoiletspider said:


> Brass does not rust.
> 
> I think you are are referring to 22 GA for the splitting.


True but I am not referring to rust. Hard water will eat them up. 

Up north and in the midwest people would laugh at me if I claimed we had hard water. That's because yours is so hard that it demands softening and I imagine virtually every home in certain regions has some sort of water treatment.

In my neck of the woods, the water is only moderately hard. This results in a lot of business for me because although it will not damage plumbing systems as quickly as it would elsewhere, virtually no one softens their water here and so it does it's damage a bit slower but just as certainly.


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## service guy (Jun 26, 2008)

Killertoiletspider said:


> There is a difference, you are selling product, I am installing what the architect speced, which is usually a 20 GA polished nickel p-trap, so we use the same gauge for the kitchen wastes.
> 
> We do use 17 GA fine thread tailpieces though, because they actually have some taper and can make up without bottoming out and still leaking.


Good point KTS, the most problems I see with 20 gauge is the threaded tubes, and also p-traps since they hold water all the time.


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

I believe brass rots, not rust. I have seen brass tubes many times be so rotted they fall apart.


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

smellslike$tome said:


> True but I am not referring to rust. Hard water will eat them up.
> 
> Up north and in the midwest people would laugh at me if I claimed we had hard water. That's because yours is so hard that it demands softening and I imagine virtually every home in certain regions has some sort of water treatment.
> 
> In my neck of the woods, the water is only moderately hard. This results in a lot of business for me because although it will not damage plumbing systems as quickly as it would elsewhere, virtually no one softens their water here and so it does it's damage a bit slower but just as certainly.


Chicago's water comes from Lake Michigan, it is not hard water, water softeners are unheard of in the city.


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

Killertoiletspider said:


> Chicago's water comes from Lake Michigan, it is not hard water, water softeners are unheard of in the city.


This, I'm sure is true because you say so, however, you live in a region which on average has some of the hardest water in the continent.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

14" is the magic number.


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## user4 (Jun 12, 2008)

Ron The Plumber said:


> 14" is the magic number.


If you install a Franke Chef's sink with a Franke GD you are in trouble.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

Ok then 12" it depends on the area, there not common here, and specs should be known before you RI.


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## GrumpyPlumber (Jun 12, 2008)

Killertoiletspider said:


> Yes.
> 
> 17 GA is kind of overkill in my opinion.


*Thats code minimum for us.*


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## GrumpyPlumber (Jun 12, 2008)

*Also, we don't use tubular on anything but tailpieces, traps have to be sched 40.*


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## service guy (Jun 26, 2008)

GrumpyPlumber said:


> *Thats code minimum for us.*


:thumbup: Your code sounds awesome. I wish the standards were that high everywhere.


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## Ron (Jun 12, 2008)

It sure is a lot different on the E Side then here on the W Side.


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## TSCO (Aug 21, 2008)

The side you put the disposal on is really the customers preference. Now I know that installing the disposal on the small side is a time honored tradition. But hear me out... Say your (okay not you) doing the dishes and scrapping all the leftovers not to be saved off a big plate or big pan into that little biddy sink. That's how messes are made and water is splashed all over the counter. 

The small sink is actually supposed to be used for soapy water. The big sink is used for cleaning off the plate and rinsing it after washing it. You save more water and time filling the small sink up to do the cleaning and scrubbing. 

The small sink can also be used to handle ice for keeping the beer or wine cool when having those big gatherings. Hey look you can have a cold one while you scrap and rinse your plate off into the disposal.


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

Now thats something to think about!
Having a cold one while doing the dish's!

Hey hun, take a load off and let me do the dish's!


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## Alan (Jun 18, 2008)

our builders never give us specs on anything before the bid, before above floor rough in... sometimes not until countertops are on. 


In that case we always rough 16" for K/S because that will hook up a standard sink. If they want to change it later, we open sheetrock. :yes:

had a builder today (sheetrock is up and taped) mention that the HO doesn't like american standard, had a bad experience with a faucet in the past.... O RLY? Guess what kind of T/S valves we have in the wall....

:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing: silly homeowners.


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## Double-A (Aug 17, 2008)

Alan said:


> our builders never give us specs on anything before the bid, before above floor rough in... sometimes not until countertops are on.
> 
> 
> In that case we always rough 16" for K/S because that will hook up a standard sink. If they want to change it later, we open sheetrock. :yes:
> ...


Well, might be silly builder, especially on a custom built. If they told him and he didn't tell you, guess who gets to pay you to change it and get the rockers back for a "quick fix"? You guessed it, Mr. Builder.


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