# Any water heater draining tips?



## user8031 (Dec 14, 2011)

As we all know, sometimes we come across a water heater that seems impossible to drain. Sometimes if the situation permits, I can simply remove the entire drain valve and away we go.

If you have any pointers, I would like to hear them. Just looking to take in some other methods from other fellow plumbers. thanks guys!

Draining the tank would be for removing old heater.


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

Coonect hose, close valve, open drain, if water does not come out turn main back on.


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

I cap off the hot side and screw an adapter on the cold side that has an air chuck fitting...air that baby up and she's empty in less than 10.


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

If you cant drain it just sell them another tank and leave the old one there


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

Shaking helps (Water heater, not you!)


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

Drain it down 3/4 of the way, then haul it out the side door in the garage and kick the drain valve off it (plastic) a transfer pump with a hose down the hot outlet works Great also.


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

I persoally like the air chuck fitting, pump in air, water comes out!

never thought of that one.


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## DesertOkie (Jul 15, 2011)

zoller pump


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## cityplumbing (Jun 12, 2010)

If I get a heater with the drain clogged, I usually will stick a piece of pipe attached to my pony pump through the hot water side of the tank. Pump enough water out till you can carry it on your back..


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

As a last resort try this


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## OldSchool (Jan 30, 2010)

For those stubborn tanks that will not drain

Cap off the relief valve and close the hot and cold water supply...

Turn the tank back on to high temperature... it will take a bit but actually the tank will leave the building all by itself....

This method will save your back


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## beachplumber (Feb 7, 2010)

Close inlet valve and run compresor thru t&p


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## ZL700 (Dec 8, 2009)

Inline water heater drain pump


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## 89plumbum (May 14, 2011)

If its in ceiling/attic/2nd floor or any higher elevation.Roll out water hose. Take 1/2 pex. Stick one end in hot outlet and take other end suck out water for siphon and put pex inside water hose. Usually fits perfect. Drains faster than regular way. I do it all the time.


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## Mississippiplum (Sep 30, 2011)

Seconde story- I just kick it out the nearest window.


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## billy_awesome (Dec 19, 2011)

Never done this but a co-worker found a 20 gal tank in a department store in the mall ceiling, with no drain port on the hw tank.

What he did was connected a shark tooth coupling to a hose bib. Shut off water to the tank, cut the cold supply line and very quickly squeezed on the sharktooth coupling with valve and drained it with a hose, very smart and very little mess, especially in a clean place like the mall. Always helps to carry a towel when doing this too!


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## CTs2p2 (Dec 6, 2011)

There is a lot of hard water and lime in my area so draining the old heater can be a chore.. Here's a couple things I've ended up doing with mixed results.
Partially plugged drain.. With the cold inlet valve closed open a hot faucet and try feeding water up in to the drain thru a hose and a double ended hose, to back flush the tank. 
Completely plugged drain.. Let pressure off heater then close everything, make up a 3/4 nipple with a ball valve and a male by hose adapter (ahead of time), unthread the drain quickly and thread your valve/nipple on, then you can rod the drain open with whatever you have (threaded rod works good) again working quickly pull out rod, close valve hook up pump and away you go.. 

Air sounds like it would work good as well, could blow air in drain to clear it out.


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## greenscoutII (Aug 27, 2008)

What I typically do to drain any water heater is to disconnect it and then cap the hot side. I then connect an adapter with a schrader valve installed to the cold inlet. Connect a hose to the drain valve and pressurize it. It will drain down much faster than a pump will empty it...

If the drain valve is clogged with sediment or lime scale, it can be a real PITA. What I do then is to jam a piece of 1/2 pex into the tank from either the hot or cold inlet and then pump it out.

In a situation where I have an ancient WH in an unfinished basement or mech room with a WORKING floor drain nearby, I have been known to drill a few holes into the tank when all else fails. Messy but effective....


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## Dun' Right (Sep 27, 2010)

Most of the time, a good kick or bent screw driver jab to the drain valve will make things happen. thick wire works good as well. loosen unions, and open relief valve good to go.


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

*siphon off the heater*

In our state you have to think on your feet or you will
 be sitting on a job for hours waiting for a heater to drain...

I have a heavy duty pump that hooks up the the bottom 
of the heater and will pump it out in 4 minutes... if the bottom
 is clogged up with lime, I take teh nipple out of the bottom and
 rheem it out, then I insstall a 3/4 galv nipple with a gate
 valve and hose adaptor on it.... 


*For a more desperate situation....*
if the unit is absolutely full of lime and will not drain.... 
you can *siphon off* most of the water from the hot side of the unit.... 
You take a 6 foot washing machine hose and cut off the end,,, 
then you force it down into the tank to just above the lime level 
at the bottom. from the hot side... 
then you hook up your pump to the other end of the hose......


It will suck out almost all of the water... then you got to have a couple 
of dumb-asses available to help you haul out the heater with 2 foot of lime inside of it...:laughing:


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## Richard Hilliard (Apr 10, 2010)

Take a rubber hose and cut off one end and stick in in the hot side of the tank and use the pump to drain 

Element; screw in a 1 inch male adapter that has a hose connection on the other end and start to drain it from the element. Gas; disconnect the control and repeat the process for the element. Make sure the water is turned off and there is an air lock.


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## Widdershins (Feb 5, 2011)

Titan Plumbing said:


> I cap off the hot side and screw an adapter on the cold side that has an air chuck fitting...air that baby up and she's empty in less than 10.


 I've had to do that a number of times -- Works like a charm.:yes:

If the drain isn't plugged and it's a straight-out remove and replace, I use a water bed pump -- Drains it down in about 10 minutes.


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## Qball415 (Nov 20, 2010)

Luckily have not ran into to many slow drainers out of norm.
Can anyone post photos of their setup for a quick drain.


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## Dave4260 (Oct 18, 2011)

Attach hose to drain and hose bib, turn on bib to blow back trash buildup in hook from bib and let it drain


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## RW Plumbing (Aug 16, 2010)

Personally, I think it doesn't matter as much how to drain the heater as the order you do it in. Here most heaters are in the basement and you need a floor drain by code. I just cut the supply and hot pipe, move the heater out of the way starting it draining, and hook up the new heater. By the time i'm done, it's usually completely empty or at least empty enough that I can brake the valve off and drain the rest out. In areas where that isn't possible I usually just wait. It isn't worth having a pump or anything as 99% of the heaters I replace aren't an issue.


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## pigskin plumber (Oct 2, 2011)

Connect pony pump, shut-off valve, let air in by faucet or cut pipe, turn pump on.


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## Herk (Jun 12, 2008)

I carry a setup made from a couple of nipples, a ball valve and a hose adapter. We have lots of hard water sediment and it just won't go through the itty bitty openings in the factory valves. 

In extreme situations, you can shove a coat hanger or something through the rig to break the lime free.

If there's no drain in a basement, I add the shrader valve/gas test rig to the top of the unit and bring my compressor. That's usually a lot faster than gravity draining.

And if there's a lot of lime, I cut the water heater in half with a sawzall and carry the two parts out separately after bucketing the lime from the bottom half. After draining, of course.


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## JK949 (Mar 18, 2009)

Ditto everyone using ball valves and accessing any usable port.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

http://www.libertypumps.com/Data/SalesLiterature/331web.pdf


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Redwood said:


> http://www.libertypumps.com/Data/SalesLiterature/331web.pdf


Note: The model 331 is not intended for use in wet or damp areas.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Titan Plumbing said:


> Note: The model 331 is not intended for use in wet or damp areas.


Yep! Don't put it in a puddle just like your drill or sawzall....

But it will have that tank empty in a couple of minutes pumping about 22 gpm so you can get it out of the basement....


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## Titan Plumbing (Oct 8, 2009)

Oh!


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

Leave water on when you open the drain....or use a short hose and blow to get er started, head out for a new tank while she's drainin. ..had a direct vent hooked up to a furnace for space heat......got literally 5 pounds of sand out of the faucets too after I was done....had to backflush furnace....the tank must have had 50 pounds of silt at least...


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## revenge (Jun 30, 2011)

I had one thad had a hole on the sid the size of a quarter wat I did was connect my ram with the hore attachment pumt to ten and shot that crap away from the drain port drained bust fine. Other than that I sually #lush out all the crap before I turn the water off or use thecombressor method


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## hroark2112 (Apr 16, 2011)

revenge said:


> I had one thad had a hole on the sid the size of a quarter wat I did was connect my ram with the hore attachment pumt to ten and shot that crap away from the drain port drained bust fine. Other than that I sually #lush out all the crap before I turn the water off or use thecombressor method


I love reading your posts. It makes my head spin!! Better than drugs.


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

hroark2112 said:


> I love reading your posts. It makes my head spin!! Better than drugs.


He's back on the little keyboard again:yes::laughing:


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## plbgbiz (Aug 27, 2010)

revenge said:


> I had one thad had a hole on the sid the size of a quarter wat I did was connect my ram with the hore attachment pumt to ten and shot that crap away from the drain port drained bust fine. Other than that I sually #lush out all the crap before I turn the water off or use thecombressor method


WTH Revenge?!?!. :wacko:

What happened to the regular keyboard?


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## sikxsevn (Jun 23, 2009)

What I do is hook up my hose to the drain with the water on, an then pressure flush(cold inlet valve open, drain valve open) until the water comes out clean. 9 times out of 10 this keeps water heaters from draining slow. 

For the heaters that still won't drain even after flushing, air-lock it and put a nipple with a ball valve and a hose adapter through either the control valve or lower element. As an added bonus, lower element hole is big enough to snake your shop vac hose through to get the last bit

Sent from my iPhon


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

revenge said:


> I had one thad had a hole on the sid the size of a quarter wat I did was connect my ram with the *hore attachment* pumt to ten and shot that crap away from the drain port drained bust fine. Other than that I sually #lush out all the crap before I turn the water off or use thecombressor method


 
That hore attachment can do wonders.









Paul


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## MarkToo (Dec 17, 2011)

Redwood said:


> http://www.libertypumps.com/Data/SalesLiterature/331web.pdf



Picked one of these up today on your recommendation. I usually use a compressor through the T&P opening but, this little pump looks like it'll have a few uses besides just HWT swaps.


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## cyrus799 (7 mo ago)

For this requirement, a garden hose can be used. The water will be released into the bucket or container you prepared using a hose pipe connected to the tank outlet.
Step 1: Turn off The Water Heater
Step 2: Switch off The Water Source And Open Faucets
Step 3: Take off The Faulty Drain Valve
Step 4: Attach Hose Pipe And Let The Water Drain


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

guys. this is hands down the easiest way to drain a clogged water heater, and we have done it numerous times and has yet not work. If it is clogged, put a washing machine hose on the end of your drain hose, leave other end connected to drain valve on water heater, with the valve still open. Connect washing machine hose to closest spigot. open relief valve, turn on spigot and back flush it for half a minute or so. leave relief valve open, disconnect hose from spigot and it should start draining like a champ out of the hose. If not, try it again. A few of them we have had to do a few times until it clears a good path out in the tank. It works every time, and it saves a lot of time.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> guys. this is hands down the easiest way to drain a clogged water heater, and we have done it numerous times and has yet not work. If it is clogged, put a washing machine hose on the end of your drain hose, leave other end connected to drain valve on water heater, with the valve still open. Connect washing machine hose to closest spigot. open relief valve, turn on spigot and back flush it for half a minute or so. leave relief valve open, disconnect hose from spigot and it should start draining like a champ out of the hose. If not, try it again. A few of them we have had to do a few times until it clears a good path out in the tank. It works every time, and it saves a lot of time.


Why not just connect your hose to the bottom and then while the water is still on to the heater, open the drain valve and let it run for a few minutes before you turn the water off and open relief valve to give air.

Of that doesn’t work I cut the hot side and use a piece of 1/2” pex connected to my hose to siphon it out.

I’ve also replaced the drain valve to a full port.


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## DDDave (Aug 6, 2014)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> guys. this is hands down the easiest way to drain a clogged water heater, and we have done it numerous times and has yet not work. If it is clogged, put a washing machine hose on the end of your drain hose, leave other end connected to drain valve on water heater, with the valve still open. Connect washing machine hose to closest spigot. open relief valve, turn on spigot and back flush it for half a minute or so. leave relief valve open, disconnect hose from spigot and it should start draining like a champ out of the hose. If not, try it again. A few of them we have had to do a few times until it clears a good path out in the tank. It works every time, and it saves a lot of time.


How high does the sediment typically go in the tank over there? And how much does that extra weight factor into the guys’ work load, for example on basement jobs? 
Here, sometimes it’s an issue yeah. Basements are rare. Stairs less so.
I’m lucky, never had to backwash a water heater to get it to drain.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> Why not just connect your hose to the bottom and then while the water is still on to the heater, open the drain valve and let it run for a few minutes before you turn the water off and open relief valve to give air.
> 
> Of that doesn’t work I cut the hot side and use a piece of 1/2” pex connected to my hose to siphon it out.
> 
> I’ve also replaced the drain valve to a full port.


Sometimes they are clogged so tight the city pressure will not bust thru calcium build up,but it might do it going the other way as rockstarplumber advised up above

I have had several heaters clogged so bad the city pressure would not flush thru it,we use a transfer pump


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## DDDave (Aug 6, 2014)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> Why not just connect your hose to the bottom and then while the water is still on to the heater, open the drain valve and let it run for a few minutes before you turn the water off and open relief valve to give air.
> 
> Of that doesn’t work I cut the hot side and use a piece of 1/2” pex connected to my hose to siphon it out.
> 
> I’ve also replaced the drain valve to a full port.


Have you ever taken a gas control valve out, or bottom element, and just bypassed the sediment? Might be leaving too much weight in the tank, yeah.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

DDDave said:


> Have you ever taken a gas control valve out, or bottom element, and just bypassed the sediment? Might be leaving too much weight in the tank, yeah.


Nope, if they don’t drain after I flush them out a little I siphon them out. If by chance I can’t siphon it because of its install location I use a pump.


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## DDDave (Aug 6, 2014)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> Nope, if they don’t drain after I flush them out a little I siphon them out. If by chance I can’t siphon it because of its install location I use a pump.


How much sediment in your area? Not much usually here. It’s the drain valve that clogs, so it gets removed typically.


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## OpenSights (Mar 23, 2015)

cyrus799 said:


> For this requirement, a garden hose can be used. The water will be released into the bucket or container you prepared using a hose pipe connected to the tank outlet.
> Step 1: Turn off The Water Heater
> Step 2: Switch off The Water Source And Open Faucets
> Step 3: Take off The Faulty Drain Valve
> Step 4: Attach Hose Pipe And Let The Water Drain


Still no intro. Please follow forum rules.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

DDDave said:


> How much sediment in your area? Not much usually here. It’s the drain valve that clogs, so it gets removed typically.


Not much sediment and no one flushes water heaters here. I’m posting about draining tanks to replace them.


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## DDDave (Aug 6, 2014)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> Not much sediment and no one flushes water heaters here. I’m posting about draining tanks to replace them.


Yeah no kidding you are. And why are you wasting time siphoning when there’s no sediment. Get the drain valve out of the way and drain it. Lol


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

Most heaters here are in the garage on the floor or on a platform. Backwashing works for us. Usually a spigot right by the garage door. Lots of sediment here. Lots of calcium in water. We now offer a 3m descaler with a replacement. Never siphoned I one. Don’t need to. Our method works for us. There are no basements here. Unless the lot has a drastic slope. Water table is too high and we’re kinda flat.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

DDDave said:


> Yeah no kidding you are. And why are you wasting time siphoning when there’s no sediment. Get the drain valve out of the way and drain it. Lol


It doesn’t take much sediment to stop them up. Most any old heater has enough sediment to stop up a old style plastic drain. 

There’s no wasted time siphoning it. It’s quicker and safer than trying to replace the drain. The plastic drains can break off leaving you with a hole to plug.

I work smarter not harder.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> It doesn’t take much sediment to stop them up. Most any old heater has enough sediment to stop up a old style plastic drain.
> 
> There’s no wasted time siphoning it. It’s quicker and safer than trying to replace the drain. The plastic drains can break off leaving you with a hole to plug.
> 
> I work smarter not harder.


Once we get them outside, and have rolled them out full we smack that plastic sh!t right the F off with a hammer and poke a crew driver in there, then it becomes a real squirter.


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## DDDave (Aug 6, 2014)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> It doesn’t take much sediment to stop them up. Most any old heater has enough sediment to stop up a old style plastic drain.
> 
> There’s no wasted time siphoning it. It’s quicker and safer than trying to replace the drain. The plastic drains can break off leaving you with a hole to plug.
> 
> I work smarter not harder.


Smarter not harder yeah. That’s why my previous post mentioned gas control valves if the dv’s brittle, meaning plastic. You must have missed that.


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

DDDave said:


> Smarter not harder yeah. That’s why my previous post mentioned gas control valves if the dv’s brittle, meaning plastic. You must have missed that.


I don’t find siphoning through the hot side a problem at all. 

I have to cut the hot side pipe anyway so then I just drop my pex down to the bottom then pull it back about 8” to keep it out of the sediment.

No extra work removing control valves or replacing drain valves.

Pro tips ! ✌


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## Lickitlikeafritter (12 mo ago)

If poking a screwdriver in the drain valve doesn’t do it we have a sweet little transfer pump that you run off a drill. Push pull a couple times and she’s usually flowing good.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> I don’t find siphoning through the hot side a problem at all.
> 
> I have to cut the hot side pipe anyway so then I just drop my pex down to the bottom then pull it back about 8” to keep it out of the sediment.
> 
> ...


Can we get a hell yea????


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## DDDave (Aug 6, 2014)

Water heater humor--- took some in the face If you know what I mean

Wait for it....


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## TerryTotoSucks (5 mo ago)

DDDave said:


> Water heater humor---
> 
> Wait for it....


I did that once. Forgot to relieve the pressure. Scared crap outta me.


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## DDDave (Aug 6, 2014)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> I did that once. Forgot to relieve the pressure. Scared crap outta me.


Right on. Check out the description on that video. Customer did not do what they said they were going to do.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

DDDave said:


> Water heater humor--- took some in the face If you know what I mean
> 
> Wait for it....


Glad I'm not the only one! These guys are arguing about the drain and siphoning and all I can think is you know a heater has more holes right?!?!?

How high does the sediment/lime get? Not above the bottom element! Once it hits the bottom element it burns out and the whole tank gets replaced!

Why anyone would mess with a clogged heater drain is beyond me, time is money.


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## DDDave (Aug 6, 2014)

TerryTotoSucks said:


> I did that once. Forgot to relieve the pressure. Scared crap outta me.


Yeah. First time scared me. Second and third times, well those were different. ha


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## Logtec (Jun 3, 2018)

Joshuasamuel said:


> Hi,
> Usually, I'll insert a pipe through the hot water side of the tank that is connected to my pony pump. You can carry the water on your back after you pump out enough water. Thanks.


Ya sure, is that what you would do?


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