# cut pvc with a hack saw



## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

who actually does this? i've never cut pvc with with a hack saw, in fact, i don't even own a hack and have never missed it.

this leads to my second question, why does every non plumber out there think that a hack saw is the right tool to cut pvc?


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

Ive cut enough PVC with a Lennox hackmaster to wrap around this planet twice. All drainage and vent. Foam Core is not that hard to cut with a hacksaw.


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## Pipedoc (Jun 14, 2009)

I guess you don't like us guys who use a sawsall too.:jester:

I have cut a lot of pipe with a hacksaw and sawsall. As long as the cut is perpindicular to the pipe I don't have a problem with it. When I did construction or when I now do remodel jobs I use a chop saw. Fast and clean. I am buying a Milwaukee pipe shear this week and hopefully won't need the hacksaw or a pvc saw anymore.


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## SlickRick (Sep 3, 2009)

I use hacksaw, sawsall. cut straight, debur and keep going..


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## UnclogNH (Mar 28, 2009)

Use a saw to cut PVC :blink: :no: I just break it over my knee. Using a saw is a waste of time. :laughing:


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## UnclogNH (Mar 28, 2009)

I use this 90% 10% sawzall.


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## PlumberPete (Nov 14, 2009)

Same here. I have no problem with a hack saw. I use the hack saw, the Sawzall, or chop saw. Depends on what the project is, and what is more efficient for the job. I'm not going to pull the chop saw out to do a repipe underneath a kitchen sink, or to replace a section of 3" sewer main in the basement.


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## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

slickrick said:


> I use hacksaw, sawsall. cut straight, debur and keep going..


One time on PDL or PIPDL I posted on making a tool to limit the stroke on a sawsall so as not to penetrate the wall behind the pipe. (3" PVC)

I thought it was pretty smart but somebody said why didn't you use nylon mason twine. Yeh I said ... Well he convinced me to try it, I did, It worked ... had the pipe cut off nice and straight in about 5-7 minutes. 
Good to remember in a pinch. 
Take about a 3 or 4' lenght of mason line, tye a loop on each end -- get the twine behind the pipe and just pull the twine back and forth. Takes pretty long until you get through the back of the pipe then it goes quick. 
Note: only works on PVC, not ABS.


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## bigdaddyrob (May 14, 2009)

Used a hacksaw plenty of times. Prefer the Lennox saws tho. But I am 90% cordless sawzall. The missing 10% is when the batteries die and I am almost done, lol 

Worked with a guy on NC that turned me onto a chop saw, there was no looking back after that on larger scale projects


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## SlickRick (Sep 3, 2009)

PLUMBER_BILL said:


> One time on PDL or PIPDL I posted on making a tool to limit the stroke on a sawsall so as not to penetrate the wall behind the pipe. (3" PVC)
> 
> I thought it was pretty smart but somebody said why didn't you use nylon mason twine. Yeh I said ... Well he convinced me to try it, I did, It worked ... had the pipe cut off nice and straight in about 5-7 minutes.
> Good to remember in a pinch.
> ...


I have used that many times too. It works great on cutting 2" tub drains in a slab. When you don't have an internal cutter...


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

Pipedoc said:


> I am buying a Milwaukee pipe shear this week and hopefully won't need the hacksaw or a pvc saw anymore.


Keep them handy for this winter when you grab the length of PVC off the roof rack.

The Shear ain't gonna be pretty!:laughing:


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## spudwrench (Sep 15, 2009)

Hacksaw blades are directional (you knew that,right). Put the blade in your saw backward. Cuts much straighter and smoother. You'll get the hang of it. Also, works great on tailpieces and trap arms. If you want a super straight cut on sch. 40 pipe, slide a repair coupling to your line and go for it! Couldn't resist putting in my .02. I didn't realize that all plumbers don't do this.


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## Pipedoc (Jun 14, 2009)

Redwood said:


> Keep them handy for this winter when you grab the length of PVC off the roof rack.
> 
> The Shear ain't gonna be pretty!:laughing:


 
Roger that Redwood!

That reminds me, I emailed Milwaukee last week and asked them at what is the lowest temperature the shear will successfully cut sch 40 pvc. I'll have to check that email account and see if they replied.

Anyone know the answer or care to attempt a guess?


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## stillaround (Mar 11, 2009)

Plumbers arent usually anal about what tool they use if it gets the job done. Hack saws can go crooked if the blade gets twisted or you take it too fast..but its been around forever. Usually in a hurry so its "just cut the thing and get it over here".


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Pipedoc said:


> Roger that Redwood!
> 
> That reminds me, I emailed Milwaukee last week and asked them at what is the lowest temperature the shear will successfully cut sch 40 pvc. I'll have to check that email account and see if they replied.
> 
> Anyone know the answer or care to attempt a guess?


 The pipe shear is not really worth the money. On old pipe it breaks it. i used it today...brand new blade on it brand new tool on 20 yr old pvc at 75 degree air temp and it BROKE the pipe no matter how slow or fast i cut it. So i think i just bought a 180 piece of ****.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

TheMaster said:


> The pipe shear is not really worth the money. On old pipe it breaks it. i used it today...brand new blade on it brand new tool on 20 yr old pvc at 75 degree air temp and it BROKE the pipe no matter how slow or fast i cut it. So i think i just bought a 180 piece of ****.


How did it do on the new pipe?


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Redwood said:


> How did it do on the new pipe?


It squeezs the pipe alittle before it cuts...the blade needs to be much sharper. The tool is very powerful...it gears down with some force!!! Keep your fingers out the way for sure. The tool is awkward to depress the safety.....I'm much faster witha sawzall. It does makesuper clean cuts...factory look alikes. I was cutting sch40...I bet it cuts foamcore easy...have not tried it with foamcore. I was cutting 2" pipe. It cuts new pipe very well but still kinda awkward...maybe just not use to it.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

i actually like a sawzall with the wide blades for 3-4". for under 2, i like the ridgid pvc cutters. the best pvc handsaws are the vaughan pull saws. i find that the thin hacksaw blade wants to wander on the big stuff. 

if anyone uses a full size shiny blade, line up the reflection of the board/pipe in the saw. when the cut piece and reflection make a straight line, that's a perfectly square cut.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

spudwrench said:


> Hacksaw blades are directional (you knew that,right). Put the blade in your saw backward. Cuts much straighter and smoother. You'll get the hang of it. Also, works great on tailpieces and trap arms. If you want a super straight cut on sch. 40 pipe, slide a repair coupling to your line and go for it! Couldn't resist putting in my .02. I didn't realize that all plumbers don't do this.


 

Even better,


Put two in instead of one, or put two in opposite directions of each other.


If your cut starts running crooked, you're pushing too hard. 

I can cut PVC with a sawzall that looks just like a chop saw did it. Hacksaw? To get a real straight cut you have to go slow and my patience gets the best of me.

But all I do is if I start to run crooked I'll move around the pipe and straighten up. If it looks choppy then I'll just run my diamond blade over it to straighten up. Lots of work but most times I get it right.


I'm a wizard with a cable saw. Just used one today on two outdoor drains that served as downspout leaders. Perfect-even cuts, rosasharon sp? bushes growing right against the pipe I cut. Customer couldn't believe I cut that 4" pipe without even nicking the bush's base stems.


The cable saw by far has been one of the most valuable tools I own in regards to PVC pipe repair and replacement.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

Here is a VId of my Shears. Does not get that cold here in FL, and TM, you should know better than to try and cut 20 yr old pipe with ANYTHING other than a hacksaw blade.
I love these things. Fantastic. 4.5 pipewrenches.:thumbsup:


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

Wow....that is pretty slick. 

How much? Under $210?


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> Here is a VId of my Shears. Does not get that cold here in FL, and TM, you should know better than to try and cut 20 yr old pipe with ANYTHING other than a hacksaw blade.
> I love these things. Fantastic. 4.5 pipewrenches.:thumbsup:
> 
> YouTube- Rockstarplumber's Milwaukee PVC Shears



Oh, they were 187.00 at Fergys, out the door. ALso, on a side note, that pipe has been in a barrel of scrap outside, its about 64 degrees out, and no problems at all as far as the pipe cracking, or splitting.


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## Pipedoc (Jun 14, 2009)

Thanks for the vid Rockstar. Even if they won't cut old pvc or won't cut pvc in lower temps I still gotta get one those.

Sswwweeeeet!


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

I'm not saying PVC cutters is a bad thing...

I've been using a ratcheting cutter for years...

I'll be buying mine in the spring when I'll start using it again...:thumbup:


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## leak1 (Mar 25, 2009)

them will make a good christmas tree pruner?


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> Here is a VId of my Shears. Does not get that cold here in FL, and TM, you should know better than to try and cut 20 yr old pipe with ANYTHING other than a hacksaw blade.
> I love these things. Fantastic. 4.5 pipewrenches.:thumbsup:
> 
> YouTube- Rockstarplumber's Milwaukee PVC Shears


 yeah they are super cool but they are slow...I could cut pipe 3 to your one with that or more with a sawzall.. Sometimes the blade will not spring back up with the quick release button. They are not light either....weighs almost 5 pounds. The saftey should have been like a colt 45 auto...when you grip it the safety will disengage...but no they make you push a button on the side.


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## ROCKSTARPLUMBER (Dec 14, 2008)

TheMaster said:


> yeah they are super cool but they are slow...I could cut pipe 3 to your one with that or more with a sawzall.. Sometimes the blade will not spring back up with the quick release button. They are not light either....weighs almost 5 pounds. The saftey should have been like a colt 45 auto...when you grip it the safety will disengage...but no they make you push a button on the side.



5lbs? Im sorry. My guns are bigger i guess.:laughing:


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

ROCKSTARPLUMBER said:


> Oh, they were 187.00 at Fergys, out the door. ALso, on a side note, that pipe has been in a barrel of scrap outside, its about 64 degrees out, and no problems at all as far as the pipe cracking, or splitting.


 Get some real pipe and cut it...that foamcore ****s foam brutha. and in the video you can see the pipe being squeezed at the start of the cut.


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## Christina (Jul 14, 2009)

:blink: Are you guys saying I am not suppose to be using a hacksaw? OOPS!


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## LEAD INGOT (Jul 15, 2009)

I use solid pvc, and I always have and always will use an abrasive wheel chop saw to cut. I bevel the ends on the side of the wheel to get max depth in the fitting, and I ream the inside. Hacksaws and sawzalls for a quick 1 or 2 cuts. But for a big job chop saw every time.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

Damn Mike, make us all look bad! 

I bet you sand the pipe before priming/gluing don't you.


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## stillaround (Mar 11, 2009)

DUNBAR PLUMBING said:


> Damn Mike, make us all look bad!
> 
> I bet you sand the pipe before priming/gluing don't you.


 My sentiments exactly..one in every crowd.


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## DUNBAR PLUMBING (Sep 11, 2008)

stillaround said:


> My sentiments exactly..one in every crowd.


 
I'd love to have a chop saw in use for all the plastic I run but it's few and far between. 

I've cut hubs down (common practice) in tucking up bath runs in joist spaces. Plastic is forgiving in that manner...but it's like anything else.


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