# Bradford White Service



## PLUMBER_BILL (Oct 23, 2009)

Had a call today on a MITW40L6BN12. No hot water.

On arrival I had blower running that's all. No pilot.

I went to complete shut down and pulled plug turned off switch on gas valve. Start up sequence I watched, blower started, pilot coil got red,
pilot lit ... pilot flame not distorted. In about 90 seconds pilot went out
and I was back to blower only. Got out the book. The only thing that fit was that the pilot was not envolping the probe completly. I saw a white deposit on the probe. Pulled the burner assembly -- the probe had about 1/16" covering of what looked like calcium on it. Scraped it off and sanded it shiny. Put it back in and I had main burner.
Anybody else ever see this buildup? I looked for signs of a leak dripping on it found none. Heater was 5-1/2 years old. If it was condensating? 
Does condensate have calcium in it?


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

I have run into this with a bunch of brands. I'd say that when the symptoms are what you described, it's a dirty probe 90% of the time regardless of manufacturer. I just hit it with some sandcloth and the problem is fixed. I don't remember where all of them were but we have a lot of coastal communities around here and that might have something to do with it.







Paul


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

Yep very common problem, even on the tankless heaters, the flame/pilot sensor needs cleaning.


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## BROOKLYN\PLUMB (May 21, 2010)

I see it all the time on flame sensors sometimes there even worn down to a nub.
It occurs in both open and sealed systems I think its caused by electrolysis


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## Plumber Jim (Jun 19, 2008)

I have seen this plenty of times on power vent heaters and furnaces. It's not just coastal areas. You can clean the flame sensor rod or replace it. sometimes you can clean it only to have to come back several months later to clean it again. I find replacing is the best way to go.


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## Don The Plumber (Feb 14, 2010)

I have an extra flame sensor ( I actually would call it a pilot sensor) on hand for my Lennox furnace. I know when it starts going bad, & have to replace it every 2 to 3 yrs. When the sensor is new, the spark igniter comes on, (you can hear the clicking noise) the pilot will light within 1 to 3 seconds, & immediately the igniter will shut off, cuz it senses the flame is lit. When the sensor is going bad, it will take much longer for the furnace to light, & will eventually go into lockout mode. Then it will start process all over again, until it eventually fires up. But left too long, it will naturally, not fire up at all, or cause other controls to go bad.
My point................ I go into many customers houses ( and I don't work on furaces at all, only my own), & see this flame sensor issue occurring for long periods of time, & they don't even realize it. I was at a house for 2 days last winter, & this furnace was calling for heat, the sparker would be clicking for like 5 minutes, turn off, & start all over again in a few minutes. This furnace would do this atleast 4 or 5 times every cycle. The customer said it has always worked like that since they bought the house, 5 yrs ago And I know they had no intention of getting it fixed, cuz they weren't too interested in it, when I told them about it. Then they will wonder why furnace equipment breaks down so fast.


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

*Power vent Smith heaters*

we have had troubles with the power vent smith heaters here...
 have to take sandpaper and clean the probes off 


some customers ahve learned how to do this themselves
cause it happenned every 6 months or so.....

smith does not have a good design



I have never , ever had a problem with a bradford,
 and in fact I have never had to break one down yet
I dont even know how to do it , they have been so trouble free..

I would like to see a picture of this probe on one 
just for my own education.


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## Redwood (Sep 8, 2008)

These flame sensors should be set with about a 5:1 flame exposure ratio common to most manufacturers.

The signal is a micro-amp signal and it doesn't take much in the line if build up or, carbon to stop the ionization process or, short it out.

Cleaning is fine but you should avoid things that will leave heavy grooves in it which will speed up the fouling rate, I usually use a scotchbrite pad preferably an old piece. I'd avoid plumbers cloth or, sandpaper.


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## rocksteady (Oct 8, 2008)

You're right Red. I should have said I use the most worn our piece of sand cloth I have in my tray. I always use open mesh and if it's nearly worn out it's almost perfect for cleaning the sensor. If I don't' have an old one, I'll get a small piece and dull it up on the concrete. I've been to a few of the jobs more than once and I won't clean a sensor twice. If I clean a sensor I strongly recommend that they consider it a temporary repair and that the customer have the sensor replaced.




Paul


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## BROOKLYN\PLUMB (May 21, 2010)

ever notice the same problem on hot surface ignitors when there also being used as the flame sensor (you cant clean them and the HO says "that cant be the problem i see it glowing" i hate HO'S )


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