# Rinnai not heating - no codes



## rocksteady

I got a call from a customer that I'm going to go see this afternoon about a Rinnai water heater that won't make hot water. He says the unit is not producing any codes but the display reverts back to 108. He doesn't get any hot or warm water. I can't remember ever going out on a non-working Rinnai that didn't throw a code. Any ideas before I head out?







Paul


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## RealLivePlumber

Take a 50 gallon Bradford witcha.:thumbsup:


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## OldSchool

Might be blocked and there is no flow ... Or lack of flow
Might have to backwash it


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## MarkToo

Is there a tempering valve in the mix somewhere?


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## Widdershins

MarkToo said:


> Is there a tempering valve in the mix somewhere?


Or how about a remote actuator?

I installed a Rinnai with remote actuator buttons and mice chewed through the bell wire harness.


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## Gettinit

Once you confirm adequate flow and there is gas going to it....Start by disconnecting the wiring harness to the display after turning power off. See if it will run without it.


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## GREENPLUM

rocksteady said:


> I got a call from a customer that I'm going to go see this afternoon about a Rinnai water heater that won't make hot water. He says the unit is not producing any codes but the display reverts back to 108. He doesn't get any hot or warm water. I can't remember ever going out on a non-working Rinnai that didn't throw a code. Any ideas before I head out?
> 
> Paul


Flow sensor? 

Did ya fix it yet?


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## A Good Plumber

Open the relief valve to verify that the unit fires and makes hot water. If so, it might not be firing on lower flow because the inlet water filter is clogged. 
I just experienced this last week. The filter was clogged and only when several fixtures were on, did the unit fire to produce enough hot water for a shower.

I cleaned the filter and the problem went away.

This was with a Rheem, not a Rinnai.


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## rocksteady

Turns out it was giving a code 11 but the customer didn't realize since it'd just revert back to 108 degrees after he turned the water off. This thing was so beaten up and neglected, I pulled it out and he's going to buy a new one for me to install. It would sometimes code 11, sometimes it woudn't register flow at all and was entirely covered with corrosion to the point where I couldn't even get the burner open. The inlet filter was so plugged with rust, it was down to about 1/4 flow. To get an idea of what was happening, here's the "service kit" that was installed.



















Paul


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## Mississippiplum

That gas line looks way to small

sent from the jobsite porta-potty


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## Gettinit

Going by the looks of this thing I would do the same thing as well. But, you could've ranch the solution through it and you could of got flow back to 100 percent.


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## Master Mark

*slap them in another one...*



RealLivePlumber said:


> Take a 50 gallon Bradford witcha.:thumbsup:


 
I agree , just take a 50 gallon gas with you...

It looks like tha t Ranni was rigged up pretty badly but the still want to go another round with a new one....:laughing::laughing:

the gas line is too small... that is fo sure...

*If I was you , I would make sure they understand that*
*you are just the installer and you are not going to warranty that mess they have hanging on the wall....*:no:



So have fun with the tankess unit 
they buy at LOWES... 

maybe if you are really lucky
they will dump a BOSCH in your lap that they bought on sale from the
discontuned counter you always see in their plumbing department:laughing:


good times, good times....:laughing:

stay thirsty...my freind....


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## cbeck

We aren't allowed to run csst directly to the unit. Has to be hard piped with a drip leg. Plus you can see the bell reducer on the gas too :no:


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## Widdershins

Mississippiplum said:


> That gas line looks way to small
> 
> sent from the jobsite porta-potty


Should have been a full port 7/8" supply.


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## rocksteady

cbeck said:


> We aren't allowed to run csst directly to the unit. Has to be hard piped with a drip leg. Plus you can see the bell reducer on the gas too :no:


That's not CSST, it's a gas flex. Yes, it's way too small.




Master Mark said:


> So have fun with the tankess unit
> they buy at LOWES...
> 
> maybe if you are really lucky
> they will dump a BOSCH in your lap that they bought on sale from the
> discontuned counter you always see in their plumbing department:laughing:
> 
> 
> good times, good times....:laughing:
> 
> stay thirsty...my freind....


 
Apparently this guy is a contractor and wants to buy it himself to save some money. He's going to buy a new Rinnai Rl94 at Ferguson. I don't see there being a problem as long as the new unit is installed correctly and maintained. This unit was 7 years old.






Paul


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## cbeck

Still, can't hook it up using gas "flex" connectors either. It's hackish anyway


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## CPT

Mississippiplum said:


> That gas line looks way to small
> 
> sent from the jobsite porta-potty


That gas line IS to small. Put a real set of isolation valves on the new one. Get rid of the galvenized parts as well. That way you won't have to go back out to clean the rust out of the strainer.


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## A Good Plumber

Your in luck. The new RL94 will come with an installation valve kit.

Sell em a Tankless flush kit and offer a 6 month maintenance flush. Customer for life!


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## rocksteady

The new one will be installed with the junky Webstone isolation valves that come with the new Rinnai heaters. I don't think it's against code to use a properly sized gas flex but the new one will be hard piped in 3/4" black iron just like all my Rinnai installs. We've already talked about annual flushing and I think (I hope) this guy has learned his expensive lesson. I'll post up some finished pictures if I remember.








Paul


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## johnlewismcleod

Gettinit said:


> Going by the looks of this thing I would do the same thing as well. But, you could've ranch the solution through it and you could of got flow back to 100 percent.



Flushing the unit wouldn't do much to clear the rust out of those galvanized fittings and there was problem rust from them in the unit also.


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## rocksteady

johnlewismcleod said:


> Flushing the unit wouldn't do much to clear the rust out of those galvanized fittings and there was problem rust from them in the unit also.


Not to mention the intermittent code 11 and a possible leaking heat exchanger. I wanted to get a look at the burner plates and the underside of the heat exchanger to check for leaks and corrosion, possibly loading up the burner plates with scale and causing an ignition failure but because of the corrosion I couldn't remove all the screws. This thing had at least 3 problems and that's not counting the installation. I'm thinking the guy is going to be money ahead by replacing it and starting over, with a mind towards maintenance.








Paul


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## plumber88

*Hey every one*

I just signed up to plumbing zone just wondering if anyone knows how to post a topic? Sorry this doesn't relate to your problem this was the most recent post I could find. Thanks.


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## plumber88

plumber88 said:


> I just signed up to plumbing zone just wondering if anyone knows how to post a topic? Sorry this doesn't relate to your problem this was the most recent post I could find. Thanks.


your **** is my bread and butter


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## rjbphd

plumber88 said:


> I just signed up to plumbing zone just wondering if anyone knows how to post a topic? Sorry this doesn't relate to your problem this was the most recent post I could find. Thanks.


How to post a topic??? How did you post this????


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## JK949

Scale guard prefilter?


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## Gettinit

JK949 said:


> Scale guard prefilter?


Junk and another excuse not to have them call you for a PM.


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## 6th Density

Was that the original water heater from when that house was built?
Seeing that 1/2" gas flex connect makes me wonder...
Is the house's main gas regulator .5 psi or 2 psi?
One of the biggest mistakes hacks do when upgrading from a tank to a tankless is forgetting to recalculate the new gas load on the entire system.
tankless use around 4 times more gas consumption than tank heaters.
Seeing that 1/2" gas line, add in a high possibility of a .5" psi main regulator (most residential are - at least in my area), add in the possibility of 2 to 3 more gas appliances in the house... now your talking about much more than just a unit change out. Now your going to have to at least repipe from the heater to the main and reconnect to all other existing.

Just throwing it out there, as I don't know your entire situation.


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## patom

*Not heating no codes*

Rinnai ru98ne, pressed pressure relief valve on hot line at heater, then opened isolation valve for a minute and felt hot water coming out at this point. Started working after that. I am guessing some air or debris in line.


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## rjbphd

patom said:


> Rinnai ru98ne, pressed pressure relief valve on hot line at heater, then opened isolation valve for a minute and felt hot water coming out at this point. Started working after that. I am guessing some air or debris in line.


Call a real hdyronic heating service guy


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## MTDUNN

patom said:


> Rinnai ru98ne, pressed pressure relief valve on hot line at heater, then opened isolation valve for a minute and felt hot water coming out at this point. Started working after that. I am guessing some air or debris in line.



I don't get it. How hard is it to read the rules?

Please post an intro if you're really in the field


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## plbgbiz

MTDUNN said:


> I don't get it. How hard is it to read the rules? Please post an intro if you're really in the field


Patom has left the building. :yes:


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