# New Milwaukee M12 Drain Gun!



## Shoot'N'Plumber (Apr 27, 2013)

So looks like Milwaukee answered The Ryobi cordless Drain gun...thoughts


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

I wonder if the m12 will be strong enough, the m18 seems a better way to go.


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## wharfrat (Nov 1, 2014)

Who runs cable with only nitrile gloves on? 

Looks cool, but 25 ft cable has no use for me. If the price is right, I suppose it can have it's benefits.


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## Shoot'N'Plumber (Apr 27, 2013)

wharfrat said:


> Who runs cable with only nitrile gloves on?
> 
> Looks cool, but 25 ft cable has no use for me. If the price is right, I suppose it can have it's benefits.


I have the same thought, however, i think I'd use it mainly for restaurant lavs. Typically don't need to go farther than 12'-14' before I'd have other options.


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

Milwaukee's smart not to put a lot of bells and whistles on it-keeping it priced for the average handyman or H.O. I'd like to see an m18 with a chuck for those rust blockages. An aluminum drum. And some kind of stand. Even like a little tripod you could adjust up and down and feed the cable by hand with it running.


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## newyorkcity (Nov 25, 2010)

It's ironic that Milwaukee is the brand to show plumbers using their drain gun correctly from underneath the sink with the trap removed. Remember the advertisements from other companies with the picture of the plumber standing straight up over the lavatory effortlessly guiding the cable right into the lavatory drain? I used to think: Where did the pop-up assembly go? How about bends under the sink? 
The male tool models for those advertisements probably moved on to the contractor referral websites, posing under a kitchen sink with an 18" wrench on a slipnut.


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## Green Country (Mar 6, 2009)

I think it looks awesome. I have a really old one on a corded Milwaukee drill and this looks like a definite upgrade. I only use it for tubs and small hard to get to stoppages so the new one looks perfect.


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## cable or root (Oct 7, 2015)

Funny how ryobib comes out with one and the views are mixed but mostly negative, but Milwaukee comes up with something very similar and people get excited.


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## Drain Pro (Nov 3, 2013)

newyorkcity said:


> It's ironic that Milwaukee is the brand to show plumbers using their drain gun correctly from underneath the sink with the trap removed. Remember the advertisements from other companies with the picture of the plumber standing straight up over the lavatory effortlessly guiding the cable right into the lavatory drain? I used to think: Where did the pop-up assembly go? How about bends under the sink?
> The male tool models for those advertisements probably moved on to the contractor referral websites, posing under a kitchen sink with an 18" wrench on a slipnut.




I go through the top all the time.


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## Drain Pro (Nov 3, 2013)

Green Country said:


> I think it looks awesome. I have a really old one on a corded Milwaukee drill and this looks like a definite upgrade. I only use it for tubs and small hard to get to stoppages so the new one looks perfect.




You mean a downgrade right?; because those old corded Milwaukees with the steel chuck were great.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

This is not Milwaukee's first cordless pistol rod. They came out with one about 12 maybe 15 years ago. It flopped due to battery issues at the time. I may still have one in the garage.

Here is the PDF from their own site.

https://documents.milwaukeetool.com/54-05-0141.pdf


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## All Pro (Nov 15, 2013)

Snaking from the top is the right way. How will you properly clean a line full of grease with no head pressure? Not to mention the mess you make in the cabinet. Only time I snake a sink underneath is if theres a disposal.


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## Drain Pro (Nov 3, 2013)

All Pro said:


> Snaking from the top is the right way. How will you properly clean a line full of grease with no head pressure? Not to mention the mess you make in the cabinet. Only time I snake a sink underneath is if theres a disposal.




I agree and here we go.....


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

The undersink contraption. There are many like it but mine is the original lol


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## wharfrat (Nov 1, 2014)

Top guy myself.


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## All Pro (Nov 15, 2013)

I just don't feel like that would work as well. A full sink is gonna make a lot more pressure then a couple fittings and supply line. I also have some fittings I've made up but really only use it on dubbed sinks and disposals. I don't have a gun though I use a 3800. To each there own, if the customer isn't calling back its done right.


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## Drain Pro (Nov 3, 2013)

If I can't go from the top I drill a hole on the top of the trap and install a boiler plug when I'm done. Yeah yeah call me a hack if you want. Bottom line is never a kitchen call back, never a mess, and never a complaint after doing this probably a thousand times. 


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## Gunnar (Jan 5, 2014)

All Pro said:


> I just don't feel like that would work as well. A full sink is gonna make a lot more pressure then a couple fittings and supply line. I also have some fittings I've made up but really only use it on dubbed sinks and disposals. I don't have a gun though I use a 3800. To each there own, if the customer isn't calling back its done right.


I've always taken the trap off and gone from there...so you go threw the basket strainer or remove the strainer and go from there? I'm always open to a better way


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## All Pro (Nov 15, 2013)

Right through the basked 1/4" cable. Just gotta be gentle getting through the trap. In bathrooms I take the trap off and get the cable through than reconnect so I don't shatter the 1 1/4 trap. That way you can have heavy water flow and see the bubbles and pulse when your working the clog.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

1/4" cable is enough to open the line but not clean the line. I prefer to pull the trap, run my 5/8 sectional cable through the line, disconnect the last section at the wall reconnect the trap and run water to wash the cable and the line. Then take trap off and retrieve the rest of the cable. Then flush the line again.


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## All Pro (Nov 15, 2013)

Sounds like a mess. No disrespect. No body uses sectionals here though. I'm usually in and out in under an hour most the time less no splatter or clean up. And pretty much no call backs on branch lines.


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## Drain Pro (Nov 3, 2013)

I don't get call backs with 1/4" so I must be cleaning the line right. Run plenty of water and work those tight spots. 


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## Qplumb (Dec 19, 2015)

I run through the top on lavs & pull the trap on kitchen. If the kitchen is piped right you can leave one trap on & put a bucket under the other side & run water still without making a mess. I cut the bottom of of a 5 gallon bucket, about 5-6" tall. It is indestructible and fits under just about everything.


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## Drain Pro (Nov 3, 2013)

I do use my DM150 with spartan 5/16 #8 end on most kitchens. I will go from the top on a kitchen with 1/4" if I think I'll be safe from a call back. It's a judgement call. 


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## wallingford (Nov 16, 2013)

Through top of sinks sounds fun, good time saver. I cut out most traps I meet and clean staight through the horizontal pipe with 3/8 for sinks and lavs. I don't use 1/4 except on tubs. Boiler plugs sound both hackish and tempting... Cool hearing about how everyone does small drains.

I also think cutting the trap helps in cleaning the lav drain assembly and for taking knives/popsicle sticks/junk from sink traps.


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## All Pro (Nov 15, 2013)

I agree, there are times I use 3/8. But i almost always try from the top. If I need to cut and replace traps that's all an add on.


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## Drain Pro (Nov 3, 2013)

I do my best to stick to drain cleaning only. I try to avoid any type of plumbing so the last thing I want to do is to have to cut and cape a nipple after spinning a kitchen trap off. 

If the tubular basin trap looks bad to me, I'll change it and then snake from the top. 


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## All Pro (Nov 15, 2013)

I hear ya.


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## plumber101us (Feb 25, 2013)

I use a K60 with a 3/8's drum and take out traps on kitchen sink lines and use a ridgid 1/4 drill gun for tubs and lavs


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

cable or root said:


> Funny how ryobib comes out with one and the views are mixed but mostly negative, but Milwaukee comes up with something very similar and people get excited.


I think because Ryobi is associated with junk and Milwaukee is known as quality. All my cordless tools are Milwaukee, I was at a remodel job and my impact was on the truck, needed to unscrew a couple screws and a friend/electrician's Ryobi was nearby, 1/2 the speed and power.


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## MACK ATTAKK (Jan 11, 2015)

All Pro said:


> Snaking from the top is the right way. How will you properly clean a line full of grease with no head pressure? Not to mention the mess you make in the cabinet. Only time I snake a sink underneath is if theres a disposal.


 How do you get through the pop up or strainer?


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## MACK ATTAKK (Jan 11, 2015)

I'm thinking about getting for the simple fact that rodder has a 5 year warranty and the cable a 2 year warranty. You can beat on it and not worry. Just don't know if a battery will have enough power to clean a drain.


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## All Pro (Nov 15, 2013)

Mack Attack, most the time they fit through the strainer and pop ups only take a min to remove or unscrew the top if it's a push down. I've worked for other company's doing service before going on my own with drains and for 14 years that's just the way it's done. Now I'm not saying I never have to drop a trap but most of the time it's through the top with the machine on the floor and a towel covering the counter edge with the water on. It flushes the line and keeps my cable clean so no mess.


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## All Pro (Nov 15, 2013)

1/4" that is. If it gives me a hard time I drop it and use 3/8. Also dosnt work to well with the old traps with the plug unless you can manage to take out the plug and push the cable through the bend


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## MACK ATTAKK (Jan 11, 2015)

All Pro said:


> Mack Attack, most the time they fit through the strainer and pop ups only take a min to remove or unscrew the top if it's a push down. I've worked for other company's doing service before going on my own with drains and for 14 years that's just the way it's done. Now I'm not saying I never have to drop a trap but most of the time it's through the top with the machine on the floor and a towel covering the counter edge with the water on. It flushes the line and keeps my cable clean so no mess.


 I like this!!! I will have to try it. It should be much cleaner. I use a k50 with all size drums and cable. Maybe this Milwaukee hand held will be just right for the job. I've never worked for a drain cleaning company. I'm self taught. Plumber by trade, drain lover by night. So thank you for the tips I'll put they to use.


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## wharfrat (Nov 1, 2014)

I enjoy the challenge of running my cable through a suspect p trap and not destroying it. Once upon a time I may have replaced many a p trap at no charge to the customer.


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## Plumbinlarge (Oct 15, 2015)

The only difference is no cord obviously. Big and bulky like the corded ones. 250 bucks? can get 4 Ryobi's for that price.


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## MACK ATTAKK (Jan 11, 2015)

Plumbinlarge said:


> The only difference is no cord obviously. Big and bulky like the corded ones. 250 bucks? can get 4 Ryobi's for that price.


Does Ryobi have a 5 year warranty? My buddy's and I have had our share if Milwaukee tools have issues. We have always been pleased that they will repair or replace no questions asked as long as it's still covered.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

MACK ATTAKK said:


> Does Ryobi have a 5 year warranty? My buddy's and I have had our share if Milwaukee tools have issues. We have always been pleased that they will repair or replace no questions asked as long as it's still covered.


It comes with a 3 year warranty.


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## MACK ATTAKK (Jan 11, 2015)

SewerRatz said:


> It comes with a 3 year warranty.


I think I'll go with the 5 year. That's 2 more years of income on investment.


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## SewerRatz (Apr 25, 2009)

MACK ATTAKK said:


> I think I'll go with the 5 year. That's 2 more years of income on investment.


If it works anything like their M12 tubing cutter you will need the extra 2 years every time the rod gets a little wet.


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## MACK ATTAKK (Jan 11, 2015)

SewerRatz said:


> If it works anything like their M12 tubing cutter you will need the extra 2 years every time the rod gets a little wet.


That's true the tubing cutter will stop working for a while when wet. But I've learned every tool can't be used in every situation. So I don't cut into pipe full of water with an electronic device. Just sayin.


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

My cutter is fine since I rtv siliconed it -you can drill a hole in your pipe first too.


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

I played with the display model m12 drain gun at Fergusons today, RPM's seemed a little low.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Debo22 said:


> I played with the display model m12 drain gun at Fergusons today, RPM's seemed a little low.


See any 18v Milwaukee air compressor?


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

rjbphd said:


> See any 18v Milwaukee air compressor?


Didn't see one, then again I wasn't looking for one.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

MACK ATTAKK said:


> I think I'll go with the 5 year. That's 2 more years of income on investment.


250$/5 years=50$ a year

75$/3 years=25$ a year

Not to mention milwaukee wants you to buy into their 12v batteries where as with ryobi you probably have 18v. I know a lot of guys like the milwaukee 12v line and have the hacksaw or powerless mini drill but I like to stick with one set of batteries.

That being said I have makita so I am s.o.l. other than the ridgid power spin for cordless drills which is only 40$ and has a lifetime warranty  I think I am going to finally buy one of the power spins.

I usually pull the trap, mostly because it's almost always just the trap and the stopper holding hair/gunk. Most of our customers are well off and don't clean the traps or know it should be done. I always use the biggest snake that will fit, for tubs it's 1/4", galv is 5/16" and most plastic sink lines are 3/8" or sometimes even 1/2". After that hot water for like 5/10mins while I clean up and even some cleaner if I think they have hard build up.


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## Tounces (Aug 18, 2013)

Drain Pro said:


> I don't get call backs with 1/4" so I must be cleaning the line right. Run plenty of water and work those tight spots.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think my biggest concern with going through the top on a kitchen is having the customer see us put our nasty-ass drain cleaning machine on their kitchen countertop. 

Well, that and even the 50 ft cables aren't long enough sometimes.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

wharfrat said:


> Who runs cable with only nitrile gloves on?
> 
> Looks cool, but 25 ft cable has no use for me. If the price is right, I suppose it can have it's benefits.



I run cable with only nitrile on. The coilovers that go on the front of my drum make it nice when I run 1/2" or 5/8" but with 1/4"-3/8" they stand up good direct contact. I get the thicker nitrile gloves, like 6mil so they hold up. Non-disposables are gross and just one more risk of dirtying a nice house, I do have them and do use them at times but with the coil overs its not too frequent, also helps make things less wrist-breaky.


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## MACK ATTAKK (Jan 11, 2015)

skoronesa said:


> I run cable with only nitrile on. The coilovers that go on the front of my drum make it nice when I run 1/2" or 5/8" but with 1/4"-3/8" they stand up good direct contact. I get the thicker nitrile gloves, like 6mil so they hold up. Non-disposables are gross and just one more risk of dirtying a nice house, I do have them and do use them at times but with the coil overs its not too frequent, also helps make things less wrist-breaky.


I've never seen a coil over. Is that something that is sold or made?


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

MACK ATTAKK said:


> I've never seen a coil over. Is that something that is sold or made?


I don't know what general calls it but it's a coil with a connector for the front of the snake, either the 1/2" or 5/8" units we have. The snake goes through it. We also have one which I think was supposed to just connect to the front of the bigger unit with a set screw but I replaced it with a bolt so I could connect it to the others for when I need to work over head, each one is ~3' long. Unfortunately we only have one of those different ones so I can only get 6' but it makes things so nice.

You just put at least like 6" in the pipe and then you just have to hold the outside of the coil in place.

Found it! they call it a cable guide tube.


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## MACK ATTAKK (Jan 11, 2015)

skoronesa said:


> I don't know what general calls it but it's a coil with a connector for the front of the snake, either the 1/2" or 5/8" units we have. The snake goes through it. We also have one which I think was supposed to just connect to the front of the bigger unit with a set screw but I replaced it with a bolt so I could connect it to the others for when I need to work over head, each one is ~3' long. Unfortunately we only have one of those different ones so I can only get 6' but it makes things so nice. You just put at least like 6" in the pipe and then you just have to hold the outside of the coil in place. Found it! they call it a cable guide tube.


That looks cool. And safe lol. I have a ridgid machines so I don't know how I could use it. Like it though.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

We also have a ridgid kollman, For some reason I think it can take these, I don't know though, it's been a while since I used it. They are definitely a wrist saver and I almost always use them. 

One of our licsensed plumbers who has been plumbing for years but never run a snake sprained his wrist once with the 5/8", he didn't know to use these. I think he thought he could figure it out when the boss came to him and said hey can you run a snake because we need you to. I have had the snake try to grab me a couple times but luckily when I was new I got lucky or had my head in the game and caught on quick. 

Always careful with it, don't want to get complacent, my wrists already hurt some days. Getting thwapped upside the head when you're doing an overhead line is always so fantastic.


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## Drain Pro (Nov 3, 2013)

skoronesa said:


> I don't know what general calls it but it's a coil with a connector for the front of the snake, either the 1/2" or 5/8" units we have. The snake goes through it. We also have one which I think was supposed to just connect to the front of the bigger unit with a set screw but I replaced it with a bolt so I could connect it to the others for when I need to work over head, each one is ~3' long. Unfortunately we only have one of those different ones so I can only get 6' but it makes things so nice.
> 
> You just put at least like 6" in the pipe and then you just have to hold the outside of the coil in place.
> 
> Found it! they call it a cable guide tube.




Throw that piece in the scrap pile. You need your hand on the cable, IMO. 


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## plumber101us (Feb 25, 2013)

Agreed


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## plumber101us (Feb 25, 2013)

After 40+ years using the same equipment I started with, K-1500 with 1.25 cable, K-50 with 1/4,5/16,3/8 and 5/8's cables ,I have been able to clear 90% of all my clogs I have had to clear


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

Drain Pro said:


> Throw that piece in the scrap pile. You need your hand on the cable, IMO.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


There are many times when I do not use it, and on some of the tougher clogs, usually roots I do pull it back and have a hand on the cable. I am in tune with my machine and 90% seems about right for my rate as well with most of the "failures" being collapsed pipe in a yard or 1-1/2" galv that has closed up from lack of use.

Those coils help a lot, most of which with safety, and I value my dexterity. You do it your way and I will do it mine, as long as the drain's properly clear in a timely manner and the house is cleaner than when I got there who cares?


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## Drain Pro (Nov 3, 2013)

skoronesa said:


> There are many times when I do not use it, and on some of the tougher clogs, usually roots I do pull it back and have a hand on the cable. I am in tune with my machine and 90% seems about right for my rate as well with most of the "failures" being collapsed pipe in a yard or 1-1/2" galv that has closed up from lack of use.
> 
> Those coils help a lot, most of which with safety, and I value my dexterity. You do it your way and I will do it mine, as long as the drain's properly clear in a timely manner and the house is cleaner than when I got there who cares?




Go with whatever works for you. 


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## plumber101us (Feb 25, 2013)

I agree. I was just sharing my years of experience and what works for me. I have used the same machines since I started, I just rebuild them when needed


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## plumber101us (Feb 25, 2013)

I have the1/4",5/16" and 3/8" drums for my K-50 and the 5/8" sectional cables. So I only have 2 machines on my truck.


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## skoronesa (Oct 27, 2015)

I have the larger speedrooter with 100' of 5/8" and the smaller with 50' of 1/2"
I also have a marco drill snake with 25' of 1/4"

Ridgid has an auto feed drill with dual paddles, like 380$+. If I bought my own equipment I would get that.

The only sectional I have used is our 1-1/4" which no matter how you do it is bulky. I admit that smaller diameters take much less space but I think I would prefer my drum units. Besides, I go into too many EXPENSIVE AF houses to be worry about that mess. What pisses me off is brand new houses with NO OUTSIDE CLEANOUT.

Also, why can't we have a 2" ball valve drain on the main clean out?


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