# Delta 600 series



## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

Any of the service plumbers have any advice? Need to rebuild the Delta 600 shower valves in my house. Surprise, surprise I am having some difficulty removing the bonnet nut. Trying to avoid twisting off the valve body. Worst case I just change the valves completely, hopefully I can avoid it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

rwh said:


> Any of the service plumbers have any advice? Need to rebuild the Delta 600 shower valves in my house. Surprise, surprise I am having some difficulty removing the bonnet nut. Trying to avoid twisting off the valve body. Worst case I just change the valves completely, hopefully I can avoid it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!


Replace it with a MOENTROL and be a hero. .


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## moonapprentice (Aug 23, 2012)

Rj, why do you support moentrol? Besides the fact of temperature memory and flow control, are there other advantages over a posi-temp? Service wise, longevity, parts, etc? Not really a service guy here but just wondering why you vote for moentrol


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

moonapprentice said:


> Rj, why do you support moentrol? Besides the fact of temperature memory and flow control, are there other advantages over a posi-temp? Service wise, longevity, parts, etc? Not really a service guy here but just wondering why you vote for moentrol


Over thirty years of PhD* service experience. ... Moentrol have the most common repair parts and most temperature control consistent. . Most dislikes having going thru the cold side and find the right temp like pos postitemp as well other expensive craps..


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

I will certainly consider Moentrol as a replacement after I twist this one into.???


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

??? we're supposed to be crying like a baby emoticons but same effect


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## Nathan901 (Feb 11, 2012)

They can get to the point where you will twist the whole front section off if they are too corroded or tight. Just carefully cut through the retainer nut with a hacksaw blade until you can stick a flathead screwdriver into the cut and pry the nut open. Obviously you will need a new ratainer nut and the rebuild parts, but it's easier than replacing the whole valave. 

The valve is worth repairing, but if it was my house I'd put a whole new valve in


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

rwh said:


> Any of the service plumbers have any advice? Need to rebuild the Delta 600 shower valves in my house. Surprise, surprise I am having some difficulty removing the bonnet nut. Trying to avoid twisting off the valve body. Worst case I just change the valves completely, hopefully I can avoid it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!


I'll self report, I ran across one four years ago and bonnet nut was on tight. I put more pressure on it and the nut starts turning, perfect I thought. I go to take it off the rest of the way and the valve falls into my hands. I didn't know it was only on there with three pieces of 3/8 tubing holding it together. If I ever rebuilt one in the past I must have gotten lucky it came apart. 
Sorry I'm no help in answering your question. I'm interested in any tips also if I ever run into another one.


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## Nathan901 (Feb 11, 2012)

I've seen it so many times where home owners put a pipe wrench on that nut, obviously not knowing how it's built. The design is idiot proof for a rough, because you can tweak it if the install was crooked. But if you go to repair them and aren't familiar you might just ruin your day lol


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## KoleckeINC (Oct 22, 2011)

rwh said:


> Any of the service plumbers have any advice? Need to rebuild the Delta 600 shower valves in my house. Surprise, surprise I am having some difficulty removing the bonnet nut. Trying to avoid twisting off the valve body. Worst case I just change the valves completely, hopefully I can avoid it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!


 Remove the trim first obviously. Turn the water off-blow air back through the valve if it has checks use a vacuum 1 can of p blaster through the shower head and on the nut-mix hot and cold-jiggle like hell wait one hour or more. Works for everything.


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## Plumbducky (Jun 12, 2010)

Wd-40 sprayed on the bonnet nut threads, tap it a few times, and crack it loose

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

Plumbducky said:


> Wd-40 sprayed on the bonnet nut threads, tap it a few times, and crack it loose
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Have tried Kroil. Lots of tapping. Applied much torque (not too much, yet).


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Plumbducky said:


> Wd-40 sprayed on the bonnet nut threads, tap it a few times, and crack it loose
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


Wd40??? Coughs,coughs. . You can't use it in California. .


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## Green Country (Mar 6, 2009)

Spray and lots of tapping. That will usually do the trick. If not carefully cut the nut and replace it. 

Try turning it by hand. Large channel locks or a pipe wrench squeeze it so much it tries to egg it and it won't turn. I've had several I was cranking on as hard as willing that didn't budge only to reach up screw it right off by hand.


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

Tape or rubber and a plastic bag of vinegar onto the nut submersing the nut in vinegar,wait 24 hrs and you will get your nut off lolololololo,or just cut it off as suggested in earlier post:yes:


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## Debo22 (Feb 15, 2015)

rjbphd said:


> Replace it with a MOENTROL and be a hero. .


Hey RJ, did I finally run across the legendary/elusive MOENTROL in the wild? I didn't have to work on it, I was there on a drain call.


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## gusty60 (Oct 21, 2008)

Heat and quench works too. Use a heat gun not your torch. Less likely to melt stuff.


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

Got that nut off! Thanks for all the help. Especially Green country! Sprayed with aerokroil, waited a couple days and it came off by hand. Delta recondition kit came with new nut and they have eliminated the packing ring. Bonnet nut does both jobs now.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

rwh said:


> Got that nut off! Thanks for all the help. Especially Green country! Sprayed with aerokroil, waited a couple days and it came off by hand. Delta recondition kit came with new nut and they have eliminated the packing ring. Bonnet nut does both jobs now.


If the nut was greased upon installation, you wouldn't have that problem.


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## GREENPLUM (Jul 27, 2008)

rjbphd said:


> If the nut was greased upon installation, you wouldn't have that problem.


Yeah! He needs to find the guy or gal that installed it!


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

rjbphd said:


> rwh said:
> 
> 
> > Got that nut off! Thanks for all the help. Especially Green country! Sprayed with aerokroil, waited a couple days and it came off by hand. Delta recondition kit came with new nut and they have eliminated the packing ring. Bonnet nut does both jobs now.
> ...



I greased the new one. The guy who installed it is in his eighties now. I will give him a pass!


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## Nathan901 (Feb 11, 2012)

Silicone grease on everything in the delta ball style valves. 
Buttery smooth


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## Wolfe Seacoast (Jan 23, 2014)

Nathan901 said:


> Silicone grease on everything in the delta ball style valves. Buttery smooth


Or end up like this one.


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

I avoided twisting mine off. Changing the shower valve isn't the sucky part, repairing the drywall is!


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## Master Mark (Aug 14, 2009)

I love it when a customer calls and tells me they have twisted off the cartridge and they want a price to repair it....... 

They just cannot accept the fact that they need a new faucet and are unwilling to take me at my word when I give them the price for a new one.

I have had a few get downright rude to me and I tell them how sorry I am and that I only do this for a living... Then I tell them to call Ben for the best price in town.:yes: .


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

rwh said:


> I avoided twisting mine off. Changing the shower valve isn't the sucky part, repairing the drywall is!


Why repair drywall while u have access in the front..


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## Nathan901 (Feb 11, 2012)

I'll always do it through the tile side if its copper.


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

rjbphd said:


> rwh said:
> 
> 
> > I avoided twisting mine off. Changing the shower valve isn't the sucky part, repairing the drywall is!
> ...



About 5" access through the front of fiberglass surround.... or plenty room to work on drywalled side. I rebuilt from front side of course. PITA to change entire valve from front side.


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

rwh said:


> About 5" access through the front of fiberglass surround.... or plenty room to work on drywalled side. I rebuilt from front side of course. PITA to change entire valve from front side.


Yes, it's a pita.. that's what make us service plumber a professional. ..


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

rjbphd said:


> rwh said:
> 
> 
> > About 5" access through the front of fiberglass surround.... or plenty room to work on drywalled side. I rebuilt from front side of course. PITA to change entire valve from front side.
> ...


Touché


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## BOBBYTUCSON (Feb 8, 2013)

gatorade powder, lemon lime flavor. mix some powder with tiny bit of water to make it sandy/gritty, and pack it and surround the nut. i use this method on everything. works just as good as penetrating oil but better in my opinion, because its not a harsh chemical that poisons the pottable water and it doesnt stain (red flavor will though). theres something in the concentrate powder that expands or penetrates. kinda odd all you master plumbers havent mentioned this yet. i learned it from a union local 1 25 year master plumber from new york


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## srloren (Nov 19, 2014)

Wrong....Apple just came out with iPlunger App. It works really well, but only in your dreams. Night Night.


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## rwh (Dec 17, 2014)

srloren said:


> Wrong....Apple just came out with iPlunger App. It works really well, but only in your dreams. Night Night.


???


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## BOBBYTUCSON (Feb 8, 2013)

srloren said:


> Wrong....Apple just came out with iPlunger App. It works really well, but only in your dreams. Night Night.


lol ok how many have you had tonight


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## sparky (Jan 8, 2014)

BOBBYTUCSON said:


> gatorade powder, lemon lime flavor. mix some powder with tiny bit of water to make it sandy/gritty, and pack it and surround the nut. i use this method on everything. works just as good as penetrating oil but better in my opinion, because its not a harsh chemical that poisons the pottable water and it doesnt stain (red flavor will though). theres something in the concentrate powder that expands or penetrates. kinda odd all you master plumbers havent mentioned this yet. i learned it from a union local 1 25 year master plumber from new york


Never heard of this,thanks for the tip:yes::thumbup:


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## Tango (Jan 13, 2018)

Debo22 said:


> I'll self report, I ran across one four years ago and bonnet nut was on tight. I put more pressure on it and the nut starts turning, perfect I thought. I go to take it off the rest of the way and the valve falls into my hands. I didn't know it was only on there with three pieces of 3/8 tubing holding it together. If I ever rebuilt one in the past I must have gotten lucky it came apart.
> Sorry I'm no help in answering your question. I'm interested in any tips also if I ever run into another one.



Here is what I've learned after cutting out a few delta rough in. There are 2 types, the solid casing where you can use more force taking the nut off. Or the other model where "they wanted to save a few dollars on manufacturing".
Same thing happened to me on the the copper tubing, you can not force them at all. I now have 8 spare nuts for this kind of crap. I also noticed corrosion on these as soon as you disturb the nut pin holes will appear. I hate that model. I tell the customer it's better to replace it.


Take a look.


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