# Bonding copper lines



## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

Does your code say that if the entire house is plumbed in copper pipe that it must be bonded to the panel box? Inspector came to my house today and told me thats what I need to do. never done it before.


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## smellslike$tome (Jun 16, 2008)

Bill said:


> Does your code say that if the entire house is plumbed in copper pipe that it must be bonded to the panel box? Inspector came to my house today and told me thats what I need to do. never done it before.


Why did he tell you that you needed to do it? Isn't that Sparky's job?


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Its the electrical code. But here I think its if you have 20' or more of buried copper pipe then the panel must be grounded to it. IN cases where theres no copper pipe to ground to I think the electricians hafta bury 20' of ground rod or attach to rebar or somthing......on top of the ground rod at the panel. I dont do electrical work and I use copper for my houses and I know they hafta have a ground to the closest fixture from the panel on the cold water. And they do check for it being there.


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

smellslike$tome said:


> Why did he tell you that you needed to do it? Isn't that Sparky's job?


Normally I would think so, but this is my personal house I am remodeling. I am doing all the work myself. I was also told the T&P can not terminate in the craw space no more, it must go out side


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

The relief valve dumping into the crawl space has been a NO NO here for a longtime. We also hafta use a 1.5" drain for the water heater pan if the relief valve is piped into it. Otherwise the pan drain must be min. 1" and the relief line has to go out independent. In a new house they want the ground wire to be attached to the closest cold water pipe that readily available to inspect. Like under a sink.


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## ILPlumber (Jun 17, 2008)

We have to have everything bonded when piping aqautic centers.

I know you will be shocked by this but, in IL the T&P relief drain must be piped to a floor drain or mop sink. ONLY.

I may start a new thread.


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## gear junkie (Jun 20, 2008)

Bill said:


> Normally I would think so, but this is my personal house I am remodeling. I am doing all the work myself. I was also told the T&P can not terminate in the craw space no more, it must go out side


Was this ever allowed in VA?


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## Plumbing Tampa (Sep 16, 2009)

Without good grounding on the main panel, if the neutral from the street opened at any point before your panel it could cause a hazardous condition and while you would always want to repair such a condition having the safety ground would prevent it from being hazardous.


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## Bill (Jun 17, 2008)

gear junkie said:


> Was this ever allowed in VA?


Used to be you could terminate it in craw space not less than 6" above the ground.


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## RealLivePlumber (Jun 22, 2008)

Bill said:


> Normally I would think so, but this is my personal house I am remodeling. I am doing all the work myself. I was also told the T&P can not terminate in the craw space no more, it must go out side


 Tell him to site the code section, or give you the white sticker.

The inspector has a legal obligation to reference a numerical code. Or he has to approve the job. He can't just say do this and this. We get it alot. (add a vent here, etc. We call some vents "inspector vents")

Just did a pool house. Inspector said to pipe t&p from water heater outside. Slab on grade bldg. Told him no. Red sticker. Wrote letter to State, and left it taped to water heater. Final inspection, White sticker:thumbup:


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## Protech (Sep 22, 2008)

Where do you get pans with 1.5" drain holes?



TheMaster said:


> The relief valve dumping into the crawl space has been a NO NO here for a longtime. We also hafta use a 1.5" drain for the water heater pan if the relief valve is piped into it. Otherwise the pan drain must be min. 1" and the relief line has to go out independent. In a new house they want the ground wire to be attached to the closest cold water pipe that readily available to inspect. Like under a sink.


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## TheMaster (Jun 12, 2009)

Protech said:


> Where do you get pans with 1.5" drain holes?


 The pans i get can either have 1" or 1.5" solvent welded into the drain fitting it comes with. There is a restriction at the opening into the drain but 1.5' pipe must be solvent welded in if you run the relief into the drain also. if you run the relief valve out independent...the pan drain can be 1". I get them at the supply house.


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## Plasticman (Oct 14, 2008)

One of the reasons we in Florida have to pipe our t&p lines outside is so that the owner will be alerted by the steam and or water to make them aware that there is a problem. If it is hidden in a crawl space it will sound like a jet flying over to some, lol and they will have no clue.


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## Plasticman (Oct 14, 2008)

I just bought a 26" round metal water heater drain pain last week from my local supply house. Cost be a rediculous 26.00
My neighbor is a sheet metal man and all I gotta do is give him a 1" copper mip adaptor which I have a bunch left over since I quit using copper,and he will build me a square one for 15.00. Wish I had took the time to visit him. I hate being ripped off.


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## RollinSoLo (Sep 22, 2009)

in Texas the cold water ground is a secondary ground usually they drive an 8ft copper plated rod beside your house and is bonded and is sufficient .

The electrician will handle all the work.Call a sparky.


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## futz (Sep 17, 2009)

Plasticman said:


> I just bought a 26" round metal water heater drain pain last week from my local supply house. Cost be a rediculous 26.00
> My neighbor is a sheet metal man and all I gotta do is give him a 1" copper mip adaptor which I have a bunch left over since I quit using copper,and he will build me a square one for 15.00. Wish I had took the time to visit him. I hate being ripped off.


Maybe you need to check out some different supply places. Here in Canada our prices are always higher than yours in the U.S. and I don't pay near that much for a round pan that size. And they stock a range of square pans too. 

Odd size pans (the ones they don't sell many of) are higher in price. If you can use a big seller (here it's 25" or 27" round and certain sizes of square) then you pay less.

But if you know a guy with a pan brake you're set. A good tin man can fold up and solder a pan in like 15 minutes or less.

I used to have access to a full tin shop (shear, 8' brake, pan brake, spot welder... all the good stuff). I made lots of great tool and storage boxes out of their scrap pile.


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## user2091 (Sep 27, 2009)

code is 6" from ground


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