# nasty ole water heater replacement



## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

I can't pull up any photo. It said I dont have permission. You may have the photos labelled as "friends only".


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## Best Darn Sewer (Dec 23, 2012)

I can't pull up any photo. It said I dont have permission. You may have the photos labelled as "friends only".


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## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

weird. its public. ill try to investigate the issue. sorry


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## Tommy plumber (Feb 19, 2010)

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Facebook states the above quote when I click on the link you provided.


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## CT18 (Sep 18, 2012)

Around here we need copper coming off the heater. I also might support the tank


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## suzie (Sep 1, 2010)

18" minimum of copper coming off the water heater before pex here according to code


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Like that foam insulation on the relief valve gonna save a lot of money on energy cost...


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## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

no copper issues here with the inspectors.(except for the gas heaters) there's about 6 inches in the cold side with a tap tee supporting the tank, and the foam came on there azzhole haha. and do people really support tanks when they're threaded into the tee?


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## CT18 (Sep 18, 2012)

If the tank is vertical, no. Being one the side like that i would. If it fills with water that's a fair amount of weight on those threads.


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## suzie (Sep 1, 2010)

Would you lay a pony keg on the horizontal and expect it to work properly? No support....really. 

Good luck with future projects and no call backs and I truly mean this. But that's unacceptable.


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## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

the tank will rust out before the weight of the water causes that to fail. call backs? I think not. and if the weight of the water in the tank is too much its because the bladder ruptured and should be replaced. and even then itll hold, haha.


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## Plumb Bob (Mar 9, 2011)

I don't see any pics!

Why don't you upload to this site?

I'll hold your beer for ya!


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## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

I tried to upload them to photobucket but I was not successful haha. how do I upload them here so everyone can ridicule my expansion tank? :laughing:


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## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

Pictures have been deleted due to low self esteem and embarrassment. I am not worthy , I am not worthy.


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

Copper connection to heat trap nipples= Fail

Expansion tank unsupported on the horizontal=Fail

One 90 looking up and the tank threaded into a female adapter and that would be enough...

That romex looks pretty tight under the tank, ought to pan out well when the tank threads rot and it falls on top of it... Hope the breaker trips.


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## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

what are you connecting to the top of heaters with then? lmao. every heater ive ever removed or seen or had pass an inspection had a copper female adapter on the nipples? and the wire isn't touching the tank or tight just appears that way.


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

Usually dielectrics


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## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

had to change my avatar to fit the mood. smartasses hahahah do you mean add dielectric unions?


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## Plumb Bob (Mar 9, 2011)

As I see it from my neck of the woods (California) 

Romex, electrical/ connection to tank - Fail

T&P to terminate no more than 24" no less than 6" from ground. In pic it appears to be less than 6". - Fail

Pex connections to tank. - Fail

Plastic t&p downspout. - Fail

No support for expansion tank. - Fail

No Earthquake strapping. - Fail


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

If I run copper to it, yep I do

If I run pex and had a wall right there I would have mounted the tank to the wall and ran pex the whole way.


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## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

cpvc is legal here- unfail
electric connection is legit, no issue-unfail
earthquakes unlikely-unfail
pex connections all day everyday 
and eh eh on the dielectrics. good thought but no one cares haha


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## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

the earthquake thing still gets me haha, gtfo outa here man. lets make this " post a pic of your water heater install week"! no more pics for you picture nazis


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## Plumb Bob (Mar 9, 2011)

younger-plumber said:


> cpvc is legal here- unfail
> electric connection is legit, no issue-unfail
> earthquakes unlikely-unfail
> pex connections all day everyday
> and eh eh on the dielectrics. good thought but no one cares haha



T&P valve pops at 210 degrees, what temp is your cpvc rated for?


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## Plumb Bob (Mar 9, 2011)

younger-plumber said:


> the earthquake thing still gets me haha, gtfo outa here man. lets make this " post a pic of your water heater install week"! no more pics for you picture nazis


Its a matter of having pride in your work and your finished product. 

Knowing you gave your customer a job well done.


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## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

211*?:laughing:


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## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

its the way of the land here. I was taught to do things this way and its the way all inspectors expect or are used to seeing it done ,,we run our main water lines on 3/4 sch 40 pvc and some people think that's crazy...


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## sjaquay (Jan 13, 2013)

younger-plumber said:


> I tried to upload them to photobucket but I was not successful haha. how do I upload them here so everyone can ridicule my expansion tank? :laughing:


ok,ill try.expansion tank must be minimum 18" pipe inches away from water tank here, support because accidents do happen. also, minimum 18" of copper before going to pex. is that pvc on the t&p valve? cant tell but if it is, thats a no no also. no pvc on any potable water system. but everything i said is for here and this county is one of the most strict in the country, so much so that they wont let plumbers with a license outside of this county do work here, except the will give permission once and once only. hate this county...


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## sjaquay (Jan 13, 2013)

younger-plumber said:


> its the way of the land here. I was taught to do things this way and its the way all inspectors expect or are used to seeing it done ,,we run our main water lines on 3/4 sch 40 pvc and some people think that's crazy...


really?? pvc is not aloud on any potable system here...no way no how...


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## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

cpvc t&p drop.and idk where your from but its normal here on the east coast.our shallow well drop pipes are even 1" pvc.4" pvc sewer mains with a 3/4 sch 40 water main in the same ditch. can cross at any point according to our code. im originally from va and its much more slack here for sure..


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## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

this is quickly turning into " wahhhh my code says this" " here you cant do that " " your county/area is stupid" thread .lmao.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

I must say. That install looks like crap. Try it this way 
Cpvc on t&p is fine 
Copper on nipples fail
Pex directly on heater fail
Exp tank just looks like chit 

Sorry bro but you got a bit to learn !!!


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## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

why so many ball valves? and "here" they don't allow valves between the tank the heater, if turned off eliminates the thermal expansion device. and please explain why cpvc is alright when someone just stated it wasn't hahaha


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## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

btw I have no confidence left. good job guys, im going back to serving big macs...


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

It was an engineered job and drawn that way and you show me where in the IPC code book you can't valve off an exp tank Do I normally ? No but it's not a code violation 

Cpvc is code approved for t&p here at least !! 

My point of the pics was to show the expansion tank


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

If your gonna post pics like your water heater install then maybe you need to flip burgers or scoop ice cream !! Lol


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## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

ipc code is different than nc code silly goose. haha. and in nc you don't do it my good sir! you do good pretty tho no doubt.


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

younger-plumber said:


> the earthquake thing still gets me haha, gtfo outa here man. lets make this " post a pic of your water heater install week"! no more pics for you picture nazis


http://www.plumbingzone.com/f21/rheem-spider-fire-12559/


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Nc. Has its own code. ?? Didnt know hillbillys could even write let alone have their own code lol


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## younger-plumber (Sep 12, 2008)

ouch. lol


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## love2surf927 (Dec 22, 2011)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> Nc. Has its own code. ?? Didnt know hillbillys could even write let alone have their own code lol


Where's the t&p line?


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Hadn't ran it yet when pic was taken. This was on a remodel in a comm building 

New pic to come


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> Hadn't ran it yet when pic was taken. This was on a remodel in a comm building
> 
> New pic to come


Awesome!! Tx Mexh here with his die elctriccc unoims!!


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

We see who is drunk posting !!


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> We see who is drunk posting !!


Lol

Indeed


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Here's my my past few days of work. It supply's a shower/eye wash station


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

Throwing CPVC in for the pop off drains just throws off the whole masterpiece you have built there..

Besides that, looks great. I'd run copper with you any day sir.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

Thanks. I'm not big on the cpvc ether. But boss likes it for the t&p lines. It's taken me a bit longer then I'd like but it's exposed in a factory and boss said I want it to look good like I'd do it any other way lol. To bad it's gonna be insulated


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

Are you able to get accurate reading with therm gages piped that way?? I installed them inside tee above water heater for better contact within moving water... otherwise another great job done without those fuking diee electric unions!


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

Surely fiberglass huh? 

Be an atrocity to do rubber tex


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## rjbphd (Feb 5, 2010)

rjbphd said:


> Are you able to get accurate reading with therm gages piped that way?? I installed them inside tee above water heater for better contact within moving water... otherwise another great job done without those fuking diee electric unions!


I take the last sentence bAck!


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## Plumberman (Jul 7, 2008)

rjbphd said:


> Are you able to get accurate reading with therm gages piped that way?? I installed them inside tee above water heater for better contact within moving water... otherwise another great job done without those fuking diee electric unions!


Not enough heat loss in that little bit of piping to make that big of a difference.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

It will be glass And thermometers are just where i want them and will read just fine


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## bct p&h (Jan 19, 2013)

Tx mech, no vac relief?


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> It was an engineered job and drawn that way and you show me where in the IPC code book you can't valve off an exp tank Do I normally ? No but it's not a code violation
> 
> Cpvc is code approved for t&p here at least !!
> 
> My point of the pics was to show the expansion tank


I think the code that you may be thinking of is in the mechanical code for a expansion tank on a boiler. On a closed loop system you cannot have a valve between the system and the expansion tank because of a potential thermal expansion pressure spike which could cause damage.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

wyrickmech said:


> I think the code that you may be thinking of is in the mechanical code for a expansion tank on a boiler. On a closed loop system you cannot have a valve between the system and the expansion tank because of a potential thermal expansion pressure spike which could cause damage.


I did not want to install the valve and even asked here on the zone and another forum and research 
My Ipc code book. I could not find that it was a violation by my code. But I agree it's not a good practice. Boss said install per detail and engineer is liable not us.


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## TX MECH PLUMBER (May 27, 2011)

bct p&h said:


> Tx mech, no vac relief?


Buy my code vac relief is only required on bottom feed heaters/boilers


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> I did not want to install the valve and even asked here on the zone and another forum and research
> My Ipc code book. I could not find that it was a violation by my code. But I agree it's not a good practice. Boss said install per detail and engineer is liable not us.


I agree I did see a threaded side outlet tee that has a spring check that only opens when you thread the tank into it. That way when you need to change the tank you just unscrew the tank the check shuts. It is a service mans dream fitting. The violation is found in the IMC but that is a totally different application. You are right it is not a violation by the plumbing standards.


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## plumberkc (Jun 23, 2011)

What's with the di-electric unions on the Bradford White?


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## PathMaker (May 10, 2013)

TX MECH PLUMBER said:


> Here's my my past few days of work. It supply's a shower/eye wash station


Why are these water heaters run in series and not parallel? What is the purpose of the ball valve between the two heaters? If they are not in parallel then the shut off for the w/h on the right will shut them both off. :001_huh:


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## plumberkc (Jun 23, 2011)

I usually run mine in series instead of parallel. If your not right on the nuts for parallel, you're not getting an even distribution. Plus you have to run both water heaters at full temp. 

Here is an article that goes into a little more detail on series vs parallel.


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## PathMaker (May 10, 2013)

plumberkc said:


> I usually run mine in series instead of parallel. If your not right on the nuts for parallel, you're not getting an even distribution. Plus you have to run both water heaters at full temp.
> 
> Here is an article that goes into a little more detail on series vs parallel.


Nice article you got there. Ive checked out your site before and I like the way you think about marketing. KC is where I cut my teeth in the industry and you and I likely know some of the same people. 

As far as parallel vs series you are correct about it still being a very debated issue. Ive gone over it with the engineers at Rinnai and Rheem as well as many other plumbers and even inspectors and the chief inspector. It just seems nobody can gather enough evidence to fully put everyone on the same page permanently as to which set up is best. That's ok though, we don't all need to do things the same way. My point about that installation in particular is that it's a commercial application with recircs. Likely a situation where you are going to need a constant supply of hot water and therefore not a good idea to run series. In parallel, you can maintain them in a commercial setting without losing hot water. Not a problem to do the 6 month to a year flush, or swap out a set of elements one heater at a time. And if you are going to run in series, why put a ball valve between the heaters? What possible good can that do?

As far as having to get in parallel heaters perfectly aligned for even distribution we agree, but this is easily done with a measuring tape. We are after all... professionals, right?:yes:


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## wyrickmech (Mar 16, 2013)

Try to parallel three water heaters that's fun!


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